GG_N54_FR-web

GREECE
DISCOVERY
DIFFERENT ALTITUDES, SOILS AND MICROCLIMATES MAKE UP A PUZZLE OF COMPLEXITY
IN NEMEA THAT AUTOMATICALLY TRANSLATES INTO MYRIAD WINE STYLES
ANTONIS PAPANTONIS OF THE NAMESAKE WINERY
800 meters above sea level, covering approximately
3,000 ha. The dominant grape is Agiorgitiko.
The beautiful, charismatic deep purple grape
with its velvety skin is highly sought after. Here, it
thrives and excels, with the cool north winds and
low temperatures that usually prevail helping it to
ripen smoothly. And since 1971, Nemea wine, one of
the country’s most classic reds, entered the P.D.O.
category.
Due to their size and configuration, Nemea’s
vineyards are obviously extremely heterogeneous.
Different altitudes, soils and microclimates make
up a puzzle of complexity that automatically translates
into myriad wine styles. The number of wineries
is constantly increasing, as the area is attracting
interest from more and more winemakers, many of
whom are active in other areas. It is no exaggeration
to say that Nemea has managed to gather the cream
of Greek wine production, resulting in an ever-increasing
number of quality labels and recognition
of the Nemea and Agiorgitiko brands in the Greek
and international markets.
We start our Nemea itinerary with a visit to
Papaioannou Estate. The recently modernized
family winery is located on the main road in the
village of Palaia Nemea. The founder of the winery,
Thanasis Papaioannou, was one of the great figures
of the Greek wine industry, pioneering wine in the
country. Papaioannou Estate Nemea, the label that
he first released in 1988, was destined to introduce
Nemea and Agiorgitiko to every Greek wine lover,
changing once and for all the fate of the country’s
most important P.D.O. With in-depth knowledge of
vineyards and perseverance in quality, he established
a privately owned vineyard farmed organically
over 60 ha in various parts of the area so that each
variety could find the ecosystem perfectly suited to
it. The wide dispersion of the vineyards and differences
in vine ages lead to a multi-purpose result
and emblematic labels for the history of Greek wine.
Driving along, the Nemea Wine Co-operative looms
in the distance. Its size is impressive. And if you
are wondering, yes, it is the largest in the region,
fermenting all the grapes of its members – who
produce 90% of the local crop – which are not sent
to private wineries. The co-operative was founded in
60 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE