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LOIRE VALLEY<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
brother Maxime who started with the 2023 harvest<br />
season. “We strive to produce delicate, refined and<br />
precise wines that reflect the purity of the fruit<br />
from the original vineyard site”. This is true both of<br />
the sweet and the dry wines. “We have used pneumatic<br />
presses since 1969, which help us segment<br />
and select the juice. We adapt pressing to suit the<br />
crop”. The winery is popular in the international<br />
market: “A large share of our wines is sold in export<br />
markets”, stresses Charles Baumard. And it focuses<br />
primarily on still white wines and on a Crémant de<br />
Loire. But the Baumards do produce a light red,<br />
vintage permitting. Their 2019 Le Clos du Papillon,<br />
one of their two Savennières, caught our attention<br />
in particular. It comes from more clayey soils<br />
than the Clos de Saint Yves, which grows on sandy<br />
blocks, but generally speaking, the soils are schist.<br />
“We are sandwiched between the maritime climate<br />
of the Atlantic coast – more or less 125 km away<br />
– and Touraine’s continental climate. Although<br />
Anjou’s weather patterns are fairly temperate, there<br />
are often significant variations in sunshine, heat,<br />
rainfall and wind. The wide rows of vines allow us<br />
to adapt our techniques to a changing climate”. The<br />
technique was introduced by Jean Baumard at the<br />
end of the 1950s and enabled both mechanisation<br />
– in an era when weedkillers were considered the<br />
silver bullet – and ground cover between the vine<br />
rows. Although the winery has farmed sustainably<br />
since then, it is now in its second year of conversion<br />
to organic. In practice, though, the vineyards have<br />
long been farmed organically: “My father was afraid<br />
there would be an extra administrative workload<br />
and pointless inspections but I kind of got the<br />
process back in motion when I arrived”, explains<br />
Charles Baumard, just to clarify things for the<br />
winery’s customers.<br />
FLORENT AND CHARLES BAUMARD<br />
FLORENT BAUMARD IN THE FAMILY WINERY<br />
DOMAINE DE LA BOUGRIE:<br />
A BONNEZEAUX FULL OF JOY<br />
The winery, based in the locality of the same<br />
name which is steeped in winegrowing legends,<br />
currently extends over around 100 hectares. Eight<br />
WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
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