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LOIRE VALLEY<br />

DISCOVERY<br />

brother Maxime who started with the 2023 harvest<br />

season. “We strive to produce delicate, refined and<br />

precise wines that reflect the purity of the fruit<br />

from the original vineyard site”. This is true both of<br />

the sweet and the dry wines. “We have used pneumatic<br />

presses since 1969, which help us segment<br />

and select the juice. We adapt pressing to suit the<br />

crop”. The winery is popular in the international<br />

market: “A large share of our wines is sold in export<br />

markets”, stresses Charles Baumard. And it focuses<br />

primarily on still white wines and on a Crémant de<br />

Loire. But the Baumards do produce a light red,<br />

vintage permitting. Their 2019 Le Clos du Papillon,<br />

one of their two Savennières, caught our attention<br />

in particular. It comes from more clayey soils<br />

than the Clos de Saint Yves, which grows on sandy<br />

blocks, but generally speaking, the soils are schist.<br />

“We are sandwiched between the maritime climate<br />

of the Atlantic coast – more or less 125 km away<br />

– and Touraine’s continental climate. Although<br />

Anjou’s weather patterns are fairly temperate, there<br />

are often significant variations in sunshine, heat,<br />

rainfall and wind. The wide rows of vines allow us<br />

to adapt our techniques to a changing climate”. The<br />

technique was introduced by Jean Baumard at the<br />

end of the 1950s and enabled both mechanisation<br />

– in an era when weedkillers were considered the<br />

silver bullet – and ground cover between the vine<br />

rows. Although the winery has farmed sustainably<br />

since then, it is now in its second year of conversion<br />

to organic. In practice, though, the vineyards have<br />

long been farmed organically: “My father was afraid<br />

there would be an extra administrative workload<br />

and pointless inspections but I kind of got the<br />

process back in motion when I arrived”, explains<br />

Charles Baumard, just to clarify things for the<br />

winery’s customers.<br />

FLORENT AND CHARLES BAUMARD<br />

FLORENT BAUMARD IN THE FAMILY WINERY<br />

DOMAINE DE LA BOUGRIE:<br />

A BONNEZEAUX FULL OF JOY<br />

The winery, based in the locality of the same<br />

name which is steeped in winegrowing legends,<br />

currently extends over around 100 hectares. Eight<br />

WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />

87

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