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PAUL BIZARD AT CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ<br />
found one of his first wines, a 2019 La Croix Picot, particularly noteworthy. The winery only produces<br />
Savennières spanning three labels which each refer to small and unique vineyard blocks within a<br />
relatively small radius of 10 hectares in the village of Epiré itself. The nearby Loire and the vineyards’<br />
aspect are the major defining features. La Croix Picot is made from grapes with light noble rot, as<br />
has been customary here for many years, but “we add a touch of modernity by fermenting the wine<br />
in casks that are between one and fifteen years old”. The aim is to produce a very balanced wine<br />
that is both mineral and oaky. Paul Bizard is a keen nature enthusiast, as mirrored in the winery’s<br />
HVE certification, but he also values the family’s heritage, which he perpetuates. One of the winery’s<br />
proudest aspects is its winery: “I am so fortunate to be able to work in a 12th-century church”.<br />
It’s not just the building’s charm and unique setting that are an attraction – the very thick walls<br />
and semi-underground location ensure that temperatures stay very stable all year round, without<br />
having to resort to artificial cooling or heating systems. Another plus point is that the crop can also<br />
be conveyed using gravity. For all these reasons, René Bizard chose to turn the church into a winery<br />
in 1905, making it conducive to some highly spiritual moments.<br />
DOMAINE DES BAUMARD: OF FAMILY AND <strong>FR</strong>UIT<br />
Twenty kilometres from Angers, Rochefort-sur-Loire has rhymed with Baumard since 1634. This<br />
long-standing winegrowing family – which even operated a nursery during phylloxera – continues<br />
to enlist family members from across the generations to farm its 40 hectares set on either side of the<br />
Loire. Jean Baumard, the grandfather and figurehead of the present-day winery, passed away last<br />
summer but the lineage continues. Alongside Florent Baumard, his son and the current boss, a third<br />
generation has already signed up. Charles happily joined the winery two years ago, followed by his<br />
86 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE