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NEWS
FRAPIN 1990: TOTAL GRATIFICATION
The 1990 vintage is a benchmark both for wines and brandies. This elegant, supple,
polished and appetising Cognac in particular stems from a complex fusion of a unique
terroir, time-honoured artistry and a passion for excellence.
Frapin’s signature style is expressed in its voluptuously rich aromatics and endless length
on the palate. It boasts unique character instilled by the climatic variations of that particular
year in this hillside vineyard of Chez Piet. Obviously, it was harvested, distilled on the
lees and matured at the estate. The 1990 vintage encapsulates the subtle site-expressiveness
of the Grande Champagne vineyards. Don’t forget to leave it in the glass for a while, it will
benefit from the time. And to be honest, the opportunity to turn the clocks back by 30 years
at this price is a snip.
Recommended retail price: €195 including VAT.
https://www.cognac-frapin.com/
BORDEAUX FEELS THE HEAT
Since 2022, there has been a glaring imbalance between production and sluggish sales of Bordeaux, and that disconnect has
become structural. The industry is working to find emergency solutions for farms in the most challenging situations,
and structural measures to ensure a sustainable future. Here’s a review of the situation.
Since 2019, there have been countless disappointments:
China’s wine imports have shrunk, Hong Kong has been in a
political crisis, Trump imposed taxes in the United States, there
have been uncertainties surrounding Brexit, an unprecedented
global pandemic, war in Ukraine, inflation… These events have
had a profound impact on global trade, and severely affected
Bordeaux. In the vineyards, a series of weather events – frost, hail
and drought – have undermined crop potential from one vintage
to the next, making it impossible to have a long-term vision and
jeopardising wineries’ profitability. And last but not least, the
drop in consumption, especially for red wines, has exacerbated
the situation.
The industry has taken structural measures – subsidised permanent
vine-pulls to reduce volumes over the long term – and drastic
short-term measures (distillation). It has also continued with its
sustainability agenda, through a commitment to CSR (Corporate
Social Responsibility), increased environmental certifications,
development of organic wines and carbon reduction to name a few.
Concurrently with this, the industry has been striving to reinvent
itself and better align its range of wines with current consumer
demand, by diversifying in terms of colour (whites, Crémant),
occasions and styles, combining the classic pours with more
offbeat offerings (new varietals). In an era of uncertainty, one thing
is for sure – we certainly haven’t heard the last of Bordeaux. Take a
look for yourself in our comprehensive feature report on page 10.
WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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