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CATALAN COMPANY CODORNÍU<br />

IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF<br />

THE 17 OLDEST WINERIES IN<br />

THE WORLD<br />

lack of rainfall did not affect every area in the same way. It led to a production<br />

shortfall of 30 to 40% compared with 2022 in some wine regions, like Penedès,<br />

but at Raimat in the province of Lleida, where the bodega also farms its own<br />

vines, production was good mainly due to the lack of spring frosts.<br />

Harvesting of the Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes was slightly early but in<br />

Penedès, where Codorníu grows native grape varieties “which can cope with<br />

high temperatures well”, picking started on August 21, within the usual timeframe.<br />

Also, lack of rain promoted impeccable quality fruit. At Raimat (Costers<br />

del Segre), where the climate is more continental, “we achieved excellent<br />

balance between alcohol content and acidity, allowing us to compensate for<br />

the slight loss in acidity in the fruit from other areas that were more affected<br />

by the lack of water”.<br />

Obviously, owning over 3,000 hectares of vines is an advantage when climate<br />

change has to be factored into the equation, but it is not enough. Good management<br />

is of paramount importance because, as Vives points out, within the<br />

appellation, Cavas cannot be produced from base wines stemming from different<br />

harvests. It is therefore impossible to compensate for lack of production<br />

one year by using inventories from previous years. “Our ‘reserve’ is based on our<br />

prediction ability. Depending on our forecasts for the harvest, we can increase<br />

our purchases of fruit from external producers at an early stage, which gives us<br />

great stability”. The winery’s exports, which account for approximately 45% of<br />

production, are thus not affected by the initial drop in volumes.<br />

The company’s prediction skills are not just applied to short-term issues. It<br />

104 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

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