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WINEMAKER DAVID CHABOCHE AND MANAGING DIRECTOR
ROMAIN LÉVÊCQUE TASTE STILL WINES AT CHAMPAGNE
COLLERY
A TRIP OUT TO THE VINEYARDS TO CHECK FRUIT
RIPENESS BY CELLAR MASTER JULIEN LEFÈVRE AND
MANAGING DIRECTOR ROMAIN LÉVÊCQUE
dosage; the Blanc de Blancs is a true icon; the Blanc de Noirs is still unfamiliar;
and the vintage has to reflect the unique weather conditions of that particular
year”. All of them are made entirely from fruit sourced in Champagne Grands
Crus vineyards. The wines are made by village, the rationale being complementarity,
and the aim is to create a USP where all the mineral and fruity characters
mesh with each other.
CHAMPAGNE CHOOSES TERROIR AS A FOCAL POINT
This is a fundamental trend. As consumers move upmarket, Champagne is no
longer viewed solely as a drink for celebrations but increasingly as a pleasurable
experience that has a strong connection with food. Against this backdrop, the
unique labels have become extremely popular as quality spirals upwards. As
virtually stand-alone offerings, they display their specific features, site-expressiveness
and vintage characters as with any fine wine, through a specific and
unique alchemy. The marketplace, particularly overseas, shows demand for
products that are different, impeccably crafted and have a history created by
the winery and the winemaker who makes them. Consumers are increasingly
open to these quality wines driven by strong typicity and personality. Although
prices are often higher due to increased production costs, this particular style of
Champagne adds value to the vineyard sites, the work involved, experience and
skills, whilst at the same time providing pleasure. This is a great illustration of
how a region can ‘reinvent itself’, to use a popular current expression.
WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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