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<strong>The</strong> Expedition Arrives 151<br />
At long last <strong>the</strong>re were appearing <strong>the</strong> first traces of spring : <strong>and</strong><br />
what a joy to see! <strong>The</strong> weeks gone past had been brimful of<br />
interest <strong>and</strong> excitement; but one could never escape from <strong>the</strong><br />
atmosphere of suspended animation. <strong>The</strong> stern, grey-brown,<br />
snow-capped ranges, <strong>the</strong> intermittent blizzards, <strong>the</strong> pall offreezing<br />
fog drifting down <strong>the</strong> valleys, hiding everything for days on end,<br />
suggest inevitabihty, that <strong>the</strong> winter-deadness must last for<br />
ever, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> warm, pulsating life of <strong>the</strong> can countryside never<br />
come round again. Wi<strong>the</strong>red remnants oflast season's gentian <strong>and</strong><br />
rhododendron flowers belie it, but desolation is <strong>the</strong> only present<br />
reality.<br />
So that to come out today <strong>and</strong> see butterflies, <strong>and</strong> even<br />
occasionally a speck of green where <strong>the</strong> earliest spring plants were<br />
pushing up,<br />
was to be on <strong>the</strong> threshold of a new world.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> road to Namche, fast a becoming familiar, monotonous<br />
plod, old Prior Nawang ofThyangboche fell in with us, stumping<br />
along, for all his age <strong>and</strong> considerable bulk, at no mean speed. He<br />
had only a few minutes to spare, lest he should be late for a funeral,<br />
on <strong>the</strong> shoulder.<br />
<strong>and</strong> greeted me with a fa<strong>the</strong>rly pat<br />
"Well, have you seen a Yeti?"<br />
"No, we're still looking for it."<br />
"Don't see worry, you'll it all right if you stay here long<br />
enough."<br />
All in our party took off<strong>the</strong>ir caps, <strong>and</strong> bent before him in turn<br />
as he laid his h<strong>and</strong> on <strong>the</strong>ir heads in blessing. Even Mrs. Gyalchens<br />
tiny infant daughter was unslung from her mo<strong>the</strong>r's back for <strong>the</strong><br />
touch of his h<strong>and</strong>.<br />
We halted for <strong>the</strong> night in Namche, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n pushed<br />
on to<br />
Thammu where we a bought haunch of meat cut from an un<br />
which had fallen down a crevice <strong>and</strong> broken its<br />
fortunate yak<br />
back. <strong>The</strong> transaction was watched with <strong>the</strong> utmost interest a by<br />
raven perched on <strong>the</strong> roof; leaning forward he snatched at <strong>the</strong><br />
scraps of meat we threw at up him.<br />
It had been my intention to make one of <strong>the</strong> yak-grazing<br />
villages up <strong>the</strong> Bhote Kosi valley to <strong>the</strong> north ofThami ; but dusk<br />
was upon us, so we called in at a hamlet to beg a night's lodging<br />
from <strong>the</strong> owner of a small house. A good-looking, bearded man