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Riddoch on the Outer Hebrides by Lesley Riddoch sampler

Riddoch on the Outer Hebrides is a thought-provoking commentary based on broadcaster Lesley Riddoch's cycle journey through a beautiful island chain facing seismic cultural and economic change. Her experience is described in a typically affectionate but hard-hitting style; with humour, anecdote and a growing sympathy for islanders tired of living at the margins but fearful of closer contact with mainland Scotland. In this new updated edition, Lesley Riddoch examines changes in the island communities she visited since her first journey 15 years ago.

Riddoch on the Outer Hebrides is a thought-provoking commentary based on broadcaster Lesley Riddoch's cycle journey through a beautiful island chain facing seismic cultural and economic change. Her experience is described in a typically affectionate but hard-hitting style; with humour, anecdote and a growing sympathy for islanders tired of living at the margins but fearful of closer contact with mainland Scotland.

In this new updated edition, Lesley Riddoch examines changes in the island communities she visited since her first journey 15 years ago.

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iddoch <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> outer hebrides<br />

8<br />

encouraged its neighbours. Thus, West Harris followed North Harris in 2010<br />

and – am<strong>on</strong>gst o<strong>the</strong>r things – built <strong>the</strong> beautiful Talla na Mara community<br />

centre and restaurant (with unbeatable views) complete with units for small<br />

local businesses like Flavour chocolate, about which I must try to remember<br />

Tha gu leòr cho math ri cuilm (enough is as good as a feast).<br />

Anyway, <strong>the</strong> ball is now so firmly in <strong>the</strong> court of Hebridean community<br />

ownership, that private landowners (like <strong>the</strong> Galloway family in Carloway)<br />

got <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> right side of history <strong>by</strong> opening up buyout negotiati<strong>on</strong>s<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves, whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs like Fred Taylor <strong>on</strong> Scalpay, actually gifted his<br />

land to islanders. Even though progress was much slower <strong>on</strong> Pairc and has<br />

faltered <strong>on</strong> Great Bernera, that’s a massive change in 15 short years.<br />

Many of <strong>the</strong> housing, employment and populati<strong>on</strong> problems we<br />

encountered during <strong>the</strong> 2006 cycle trip were <strong>the</strong> product of centuries-l<strong>on</strong>g<br />

under-investment, land-exclusi<strong>on</strong> and neglect. These ‘stuck’ problems can<br />

finally be tackled now – though unravelling <strong>the</strong> past isn’t easy.<br />

Building affordable homes and reversing populati<strong>on</strong> decline is a slow<br />

business with careful planning and c<strong>on</strong>sultati<strong>on</strong> needed to ensure homes<br />

are built where present and future jobs might be. And often that’s not <strong>the</strong><br />

old centres of populati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

Meanwhile, o<strong>the</strong>r factors have muddied <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

The Covid pandemic sparked a wave of speculative interest in holiday<br />

homes <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> pristine <strong>Outer</strong> Isles thanks to <strong>the</strong>ir isolati<strong>on</strong> and natural social<br />

distancing. House prices have shot up, young locals have been priced out<br />

and <strong>the</strong> islands are suffering <strong>the</strong> effects of over-tourism, with ferries so<br />

solidly booked locals can’t reach hospital appointments or plan holidays.<br />

Single track roads are quaint with a small volume of traffic, but nightmarish<br />

with hesitant motorhomes or cyclists who w<strong>on</strong>’t pull over occasi<strong>on</strong>ally all<br />

summer. Life <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> super highway is somewhat easier – most islands now<br />

have fibre-optic broadband. But <strong>the</strong> populati<strong>on</strong> is still in decline – 29,600 in<br />

1991 and 26,500 in 2020 – a 10 per cent fall in <strong>the</strong> Western Isles against a<br />

7 per cent rise across Scotland. The islands’ populati<strong>on</strong> is also ageing faster<br />

than <strong>the</strong> Scottish average.<br />

The Scottish Government has allocated funds for a £50,000 ‘island<br />

b<strong>on</strong>d’ to encourage families to remain or relocate to <strong>the</strong> islands (though<br />

that w<strong>on</strong>’t help locals outbid property milli<strong>on</strong>aires ‘fae sooth’). Meanwhile,<br />

women are being encouraged to stand for electi<strong>on</strong> in May 2022 after <strong>the</strong><br />

Western Isles Council returned <strong>on</strong>ly male councillors in 2017.<br />

The number of Gaelic speakers <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands is still in decline. More than<br />

half <strong>the</strong> populati<strong>on</strong> (14,066) spoke Gaelic in 2019 but that’s down <strong>by</strong> a third<br />

<strong>on</strong> 1991. Language learning app Duolingo signed up half a milli<strong>on</strong> people to<br />

learn Scots Gaelic in 2020, but it’ll take more than that to save <strong>the</strong> Hebridean<br />

Mi<strong>the</strong>r T<strong>on</strong>gue. Can <strong>the</strong> string of community land buyouts help stabilise local<br />

populati<strong>on</strong>s and promote Gaelic? Who knows? But <strong>the</strong>re are high hopes – at last.<br />

So Gun cuideam.<br />

(No pressure.)

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