NORTHERN INDIA - Birding Trip reports by Rob Goldbach

General Remarks
Timing and Climate
The visit took place in autumn, the dry season. Temperatures were at Delhi and Corbett N.P. max. 25-
28°C, and minimum 10°C. At Naini Tal it was significantly cooler, with 20 to 22°C during noon, and
moderate frost at night, but no snow on the surrounding mountains which would drive more birds down to
the valleys. We had no rainfall, but all days sunshine. New Delhi suffered from smog, and due to lack of
strong winds this smog concentrated in a large area with a diameter of about 50 km around Delhi.
Transportation and Places to Stay
On November 14 we rented a taxi (Bindra Taxi Services, tel. 5725803/5768699, taxi stand near Sidharth
Hotel, Rajindra Place, New Delhi) for the day, to bring us to Sultanpur. The regular tariff is Rs 450 for the
first 8 hours, followed by 15 Rs per extra hour, furthermore the first 80 km free, and additionally Rs 4.5
per km (1 USD is 35.5 Rs).
From November 15 to November 23 (9 days) we hired a taxi and driver (Noble House Tours, P.O. box
3332, A-25 Jangpura Extn., New Delhi 110014, Tel. (9111)-4311471, e-mail:
noble.tours@gems.vsnl.net.in) for 300 USD all in (including petrol, tax and insurance, free mileage and
self-supporting driver in terms of food and lodging; it is, though not compulsory, common use to give the
driver 100 to 150 rupees a day).
Within New Delhi transport by motor riksha is easy and cheap. To travel from e.g. Connaught Place to the
Zoological Garden is approx. Rs 25 by meter or by bargaining a fixed price on beforehand.
During the congress we stayed in the guesthouse of the Indian National Science Academy (INSA), and
on Saturday November 22 at the Tourist Bungalow Hotel, Multani Dhanda, Pahar Ganj, New Delhi (phone
3553352, fax 3556763) at Rs. 600 for a double room.
At Naini Tal there are numerous lower and higher budget hotels. Reaching the southern border of the
Naini Tal lake there is a barrier where some rupees (50) have to be paid to get permission to drive per
vehicle over the mall. At this point several people will try to convince you to choose their hotel, of which
the prices range between 350 and 600 Rs. for a double room. Our choice has been indicated below. In
July/August and around Christmas/New Year most hotels are fully booked, and consequently prices are
significantly higher.
Areas Visited
New Delhi Zoo
The Zoological Garden and neighbouring Purana Qila ruins are renowned for their richness in birds,
especially in winter time. The zoo is not well maintained and appears to host more wild (bird) species than
caged zoo species. The ponds in the zoo contain a few islands with breeding colonies of Painted Stork,
Little Cormorant, Night Herons and Indian Shags. Stone Curlews and Red-wattled Lapwings are present
in semi-arid areas. Warblers, Hoopoes, Little Green Bee-eaters are everywhere, while hundreds of Black
Kites and White-backed Vultures are in the air. The zoo is easily accessible by auto riksha (15 minutes
drive from e.g. Connaught Place, entry fee 2 Rs.) and is probably the most attractive place for
birdwatching in or near Delhi. We got 57 species during the visit on Monday November 10, including nice
species like Little Cormorant, Indian Shag, Painted Stork, Openbill Stork, Paddy Bird, Intermediate and
Little Egret, various dabbling ducks including Spot-billed Duck, Egyptian and White-back Vulture, Besra,
White-br. Moorhen, Red-wattled Lapwing, Stone Curlew, Collared and Laughing Dove, Rose-ringed
Parakeet, Common and White-breasted Kingfisher, Little Green Bee-eater, Hoopoe, Large Green Barbet,
Coppersmith Barbet, Dusky Crag Martin, Red-rumped and Barn Swallow, Long-tailed Minivet, Red-vented
and Red-whiskered Bulbul, Black Drongo, House and Jungle Crow, Large Grey and Jungle Babbler,
Magpie Robin, Brown Bush Chat, Lesser Whitethroat, Ashy Prinia, Tailorbird, Siberian Chiffchaff, Hume's
Inornate Warbler, Grey Wagtail, Brahminy, Pied, Common and Bank Mynahs, Oriental White-eye, and
Purple Sunbird.