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TRIPLE PLAYS BY PETER BRONSKI F riday the thirteenth is a day often fi lled with superstition and, some would say, bad luck. But for New Hampshire climber Alan Cattabriga, Friday, March 13, 2009, was simply a long, hard, and ultimately rewarding day. Throughout the Northeast and New England, climbers have been putting together link-ups, combining multiple committing routes in a single push or a single day. Often, those link-ups happen as trios. (Good things happen in threes, they say, which at least provided some nice karmic balance to Friday the thirteenth…) Cattabriga is one of those climbers. His trio of routes on that day in New Hampshire’s White Mountains is known as the Trifecta. It combines Pinnacle Gully on Mount Washington, Shoestring Gully on Mount Webster, and The Throat on Mount Lincoln. “I considered them to be the signature route for each of New Hampshire’s big alpine areas,” Cattabriga says. Together, they add up to something even greater (and no small piece of change): 16 miles with more than 7,600 vertical feet of ascent. Cattabriga set out from the visitor center trailhead at Pinkham Notch at 6 a.m. He reached the fl oor of Huntington Ravine just as the fi rst rays of sunlight illuminated the headwall. Then it was time to tackle Pinnacle. That morning the fi rst few hundred feet featured brittle ice, but the rest of the route was a dream—hard, ice-covered snow that made for a quick ascent. Cattabriga dropped down South Gully and cruised back to the car, arriving around 9:15 a.m. Shoestring was next. It was a straightforward ascent in ideal conditions, and once on top, Cattabriga jogged and glissaded down the Webster Cliff Trail, returning to his car in under two hours. It was 12:15 p.m., and he had two routes down, one to go. Lincoln’s Throat, on Franconia Ridge, was last. Cattabriga hoofed it up the Old Bridle Path trail, bushwhacked to the base of the Throat, and then started going up. The ice was in fat, and the snow was great. He crested the ridge, traversed to Little Haystack, and then cruised down the Falling Waters trail in his crampons, fi nally arriving at his car just before 6 p.m. It had been nearly 12 hours since he set off from his car in Pinkham, and some 10 hours of actual climbing. Incredibly, on that very same day, New York climber Joe Szot and a partner tackled their own trio of routes, the Adirondack Trilogy. It encompasses the North Face on Gothics, the Grand Central gully on Mount Marcy, and Mount Colden’s famous Trap Dike. Two days later, on March 15, local climber and guide Emilie Drinkwater did it solo. Cattabriga would later call Drinkwater’s solo Adirondack Trilogy “one of the most outstanding events” of last year’s mountaineering season. She set out from the Garden trailhead near Keene Valley just after 5 a.m. Her fi rst target: Gothics’ North Face. With skis on her back and crampons on her ski boots, she chose a line to climber’s far right on the North Face that would allow a plumb line ascent to the summit. From the top of Gothics, the route turned south to follow the crest of the Great Range en route to Little Haystack (not to be confused with Cattabriga’s Little Haystack on Franconia Ridge). From there she dropped off the ridge and down into the depths of Panther Gorge, an imposing, remote, and seldom-visited basin cradled between Haystack and Mount Marcy. Lucky for Drinkwater, Szot and his partner’s tracks, still visible in the snow, helped to guide her (a few run-ins with spruce traps not withstanding…). Finally at the base of Grand Central, she began her climb of New York’s tallest mountain. Drinkwater topped out at around 3:30 p.m. It was late in the day to consider a third mountain and a third route, but the Trilogy awaited and Drinkwater was determined. On skis, she cruised down Marcy’s fl anks, arriving at Marcy Dam in just 35 minutes. Then it was up to Avalanche Lake, and at last, Colden’s Trap Dike. She reached the base of the Dike at roughly 5:15 p.m., and after refueling with snacks, rehydrating with caffeinated beverages, and cranking some tunes on her iPod, Drinkwater was ready for the fi nal leg. At 7:15 p.m. she tagged the summit of Colden. With the sun already setting, she kept moving 8 Vermont Sports February 2010
Top left to lower right: Cattabriga’s routes on Mount Lincoln. Cattabriga on Lincoln’s Throat. Drinkwater at the base of Trap Dike. Mount Marcy, with Grand Central just in view on the left (Drinkwater). Pinnacle Gully (Cattabriga). Courtesy photos from the climbers. until she reached Lake Arnold, where she fi nally pulled out her headlamp and cruised back to the trailhead at Adirondack Loj, where she’d stashed a car the night before. It was roughly 8:45 p.m., and the Trilogy was complete. What remains now is for Vermont mountaineers to establish their own local three-route link-up. Perhaps they already have and haven’t publicized it (or just as likely, I simply don’t know about it, though I do like to pretend I’m omniscient…). But that doesn’t stop me from dreaming of my own Vermont version of the Adirondack Trilogy and the New Hampshire Trifecta. Based on the precedent set by people like Cattabriga, Szot, and Drinkwater, I imagine that a Vermont version should meet several criteria: 1) it should be semi-technical (steep snow and easy ice), 2) it should have an alpine feel, and 3) the sum of the parts should add up to a pretty hefty day. For me, the most natural and obvious place to look was Mount Mansfi eld and Smugglers’ Notch. I originally thought I’d include something from Willoughby in a Vermont link-up, but those routes are categorically too technical to meet criteria number one. Smugglers’ Notch and Mansfi eld, on the other hand, meet all three criteria with ease. Bert Severin, director of Sunrise Adventure Sports outside Jeffersonville, agrees. “Vermont has more steep, technical ice than long gullies,” he explains. “So there would have to be some harder ice than the Trilogy or the Trifecta. But as far as easy ice goes, the best routes are in the Notch.” Elephants Head, Hidden, and ENT gullies are all easily soloed, and could comprise a “mini-fecta,” combining east side and west side routes, notes Severin. Or, he says, you could do the four major west side gullies—Hidden, Easy, ENT, and Jefferson Slide, “so we could one-up the neighbors,” he jokes. In the end, though, it probably doesn’t matter much which precise routes make up a Vermont version. The point is that the trio of routes—whatever they are—is a new challenge and a new inspiration. It serves to get us off our couches and into the mountains, and that’s enough for me. Peter Bronski (www.peterbronski.com) is an award-winning writer and frequent contributor to Vermont Sports. February 2010 Vermont Sports 9
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