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Charlie, Meg and Me by Gregor Ewing sampler

Charlie: Prince Charles Edward Stuart, second Jacobite pretender to the thrones of England, Scotland and Ireland, instigator of the Jacobite uprising of 1745, fugitive with a price of £30,000 on his head following the disaster of Culloden, romantic figure of heroic failure. Meg: My faithful, four-legged companion, carrier of supplies, listener of my woes, possessor of my only towel. Me: An ordinary guy from Falkirk only just on the right side of 40, the only man in a houseful of women, with a thirst for a big adventure, craving an escape from everyday life. For the first time, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s arduous escape of 1746 has been recreated in a single journey. The author, along with his faithful border collie Meg, retraces Charlie’s epic 530 mile walk through remote wilderness, hidden glens, modern day roads and uninhabited islands.

Charlie: Prince Charles Edward Stuart, second Jacobite pretender to the thrones of England, Scotland and Ireland, instigator of the Jacobite uprising of 1745, fugitive with a price of £30,000 on his head following the disaster of Culloden, romantic figure of heroic failure.
Meg: My faithful, four-legged companion, carrier of supplies, listener of my woes, possessor of my only towel.
Me: An ordinary guy from Falkirk only just on the right side of 40, the only man in a houseful of women, with a thirst for a big adventure, craving an escape from everyday life.

For the first time, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s arduous escape of 1746 has been recreated in a single journey. The author, along with his faithful border collie Meg, retraces Charlie’s epic 530 mile walk through remote wilderness, hidden glens, modern day roads and uninhabited islands.

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charlie, meg <strong>and</strong> me<br />

world <strong>and</strong> return to it whenever possible. I would challenge anyone to<br />

read this book <strong>and</strong> not <strong>by</strong> the end of it want to strap on their walking<br />

boots <strong>and</strong> get onto the hills <strong>and</strong> into the glens. But beauty comes with<br />

a price <strong>and</strong> the unforgiving nature of the place looms large here. It is<br />

in sharing <strong>Gregor</strong>’s difficulties in coping with what, despite the roads<br />

<strong>and</strong> ferries, still comes across pretty much as a wilderness that we get<br />

a vivid idea of the straits in which the Prince found himself. It was a<br />

long walk from Culloden to the shores of Loch nan Uamh, from where<br />

the Prince was finally picked up <strong>by</strong> a French ship, <strong>and</strong> there were a lot<br />

of detours <strong>and</strong> encounters with people on the way, <strong>and</strong> the following<br />

pages do much to bring that journey without maps to life.<br />

As an archaeologist I am perhaps most familiar with the starting<br />

point for that journey, having carried out various surveys <strong>and</strong> excavations<br />

of the battlefield at Culloden, <strong>and</strong> it was there, several years ago<br />

now, that I ended a journey into the past of my own. A friend <strong>and</strong><br />

I had the bright idea of recreating another walk made <strong>by</strong> Bonnie Prince<br />

<strong>Charlie</strong>, the night march which the Jacobite army made in attempt to<br />

surprise the Duke of Cumberl<strong>and</strong> in camp at Nairn on the night of<br />

15–16 Arpil 1746. We decided to do it in period kit, carrying the<br />

weapons of the day <strong>and</strong> accompanied <strong>by</strong> a platoon of eager re-enactors.<br />

We set out from Culloden House, where Charles had set up his hq, at<br />

around seven o’clock in the evening with a spring in our step <strong>and</strong> the<br />

press in tow. However, as the night drew on the fatigue set in. Swords<br />

<strong>and</strong> muskets, which at first seemed to weigh nothing, began to show<br />

their true colours. By the time we got within a couple of miles or so<br />

of Nairn, at around two in the morning, <strong>by</strong> which time I had already<br />

ab<strong>and</strong>oned my sword <strong>and</strong> musket, we were all shattered <strong>and</strong> decided<br />

to a man to turn back, at a spot which can’t have been that far away<br />

from where the Jacobite army decided to call it a night. So, we turned<br />

<strong>and</strong> headed back, this time for Culloden battlefield.<br />

I arrived there at around five thirty in the morning to find just<br />

a couple of the others hanging around. Plans to have some sort of<br />

assembly at the clan monument were forgotten as weary men melted<br />

away back to their homes. It was at that point I realised I could barely<br />

move – my thighs <strong>and</strong> nether regions were in agony after wearing a<br />

kilt (full plaid) for over 20 miles. When I got back to my hotel – which<br />

shamed me as those who made the journey in 1746 then had to fight<br />

10

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