Portfolio 2023

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JUSTIN
GANDY
PORTFOLIO 2023

“This portfolio is dedicated
to Joy Amyrah Gandy my
daughter, motivation, and
inspiration.”
-Justin

r a w n

Pencil sketch of Villa d’Este
in Tivoli. Highlighting the
presence of water within the
space. Studying how water
moves, reflects, and sounds
within each space.
Plan view sketch of Villa d’Este
Pencil sketch of Villa d’Este
in Tivoli. Drawn to grasp the
layout of the space while
walking through in it during
my first study abroad trip.
Perspectives within Villa d’Este
6 7

Pencil sketch of Cortile della
Pigna in Vatican city. Pops of
color were used to highlight
important features with in the
space.
8 9

BUBBLEGUM is a result
of my very first graduate
architecture studio at
University of Idaho. Located in
the Pearl District of Portland,
Oregon. This project is a full
Portland city block, which is a
200 feet by 200 feet square.
We were individually tasked
to create our own idea of an
urban neighborhood suitable
for single-family living and
studio apartment living.
BUBBLEGUM focuses on
sun orientation, vegetation,
and exterior spaces as
opportunity for street art.
Analyzing the surrounding
the area, BUBBLEGUM is
located between the Portland
Bus Station and Pacific
Northwest College of Art. The
area is riddled with murals
and graffiti and the skyline is
dominated by Big Pink
(US Bancorp Tower)
10 11

The common theme within
each unit is vegetation . This
allowed me to explore how
users would interact with
interior spaces and exterior
spaces
INTIAL EXTERIOR ELEVATION SKETCHES OF SINGLE-FAMILY UNIT
The site for this project was
not introduced until halfway
through the initial schematic
and conceptual design
phases.
STUDIO UNIT (ONE TO TWO PERSON) INTIAL DESIGN INTENT {section elevation}
12 13

The single-family unit has a
little more square footage
at 2025 square feet versus
the studio unit which is 1575
square feet
The single-family unit
incorporates an indoor patio
space behind the bathroom.
The space is highlighted by
the seperated pitched roofs
and detailed window frame
design
SINGLE-FAMILY UNIT (THREE TO FOUR PERSON) UNIT {section elevation}
URING THE DRAFTING PROCESS FOR 3-4 PERSON FAMILY UNIT
14 15

16 17

18 19

Revision and beginning
thoughts of material palette
for studio unit.
Revision and beginning thoughts of material
palette for single-family unit.
Materials: Brick, Wood,
Glazing, and Concrete
20 21

22 23

Site view sketches from plan view
noting on-site vegetation species,
diameter, height, and relative
healthiness
Section cuts of street profile.
Relative noting of lane and
sidewalk width.
24 25

Circulation concepts for ground
level access. Ideas of exterior
continue to develop, along with
figure-ground analysis.
Interior/Exterior spaces
and all drawings (sections,
perspectives, axonometrics,
and plan views) were
developed together as a
whole.
The process of hand drafting
is as follows: inking, shadow
placement, groundcover,
flowering groundcovers,
sculptures, and finally canopy
and activity nodes.
26 27

28 29

30 31

32 33

34 35

36 37

Section detail seatwall relationship
to planter and build exterior wall.
The section also shows ideas of
foundation and drainage systems.
Perspective of BUBBLEGUM
central activity node.
The pink bubbles are
conceptually thought of as
PLAYBOUND POURED-IN-
PLACE
Wall section detail describing
typical foundational
conditions of each building,
along with typical glazing
{Glass} system and roofing
system.
The following pages diagram
roof hydrology {water
flow} and interior floorplan
materiality.
38 39

40 41

e c h n i c a l

Single person outdoor seat
designed and constructed
by Justin Gandy. Materials
consist of concrete body for
support and flexible stained
wood seating platform
secured with steel braces.
44 45

Site: 499 Broad St.
Plant inventory and marking
for Thomas, Shelton, Jones
and Associates located in
Starkville, Mississippi. This
project was an exercise in
identifying plant species and
recording them in the field
with pencil. Later, returning
to the office to transfer
drawings in to CAD files.
In addition, creating plant
matrices, and in-depth plant
maintainence schedules
were also essential to this
project.
46 47

Canopy Trees
Water Oak: Quercus nigra
Pecan: Carya illinoinensis
Green Ash: Fraxinus pennsylvanica
Subcanopy Trees
Flowering Dogwood: Cornus florida
Crape Myrtle: Lagerstroemia indica
Dahoon Holly: Ilex cassine
Shrubs
Smoke Tree: Cotinus coggygria
Cherry Laurel: Prunus laurocerasus
Gardenia: Gardenia jasminoides
Nandina: Nandina domestica
Japanese Ternstroemia: Ternstroemia gymnanthera
Japanese Holly: Ilex crenata
Groundcover
Mondo Grass: Ophiopogon japonicus
English Ivy: Hedera helix
Wisteria: Wisteria sinensis
Vinca: Vinca mionr 'Variegata'
Ostrich Fern: Matteuccia struthiopteris
Bulbs
Swamp Lily: Crinum pedunculatum
Daylily: Narcissus pseudonarcissus
Water
Water newly planted tree every ten days for first two summers; water for
about 2-3 hours.
information includes: Flowering shrubs and Broadleaf evergreen shrubs
Water thoroughly once a week until established and during dry spells.
Information includes: Groundcovers, Vines, Ferns, and Lilies
Water thoroughly and do not let groundcovers or vines dry out.
Fertilize
General Information
Pruning and Bulb Splitting Information
Fertilize during January, February, or March. There are several ways to fertilize. If pest problems arise, identify the cause first then impliment the proper pest
The most common way is to spread the fertilizer directly on the ground, or use control methods. Put mothballs or yellow laundry soap around the base of the Always use clean, sharp tools, and prune on a slant. Never leave a stub when
a crowbar to create holes at a depth of 8" directly below the ends of the outer tree. Watch any grading done around trees excess soil or removal of soil can cutting off large branches. If branch is cut back and is parallel to the trunk, the cut
branches (tree dripline). Effective natural fertilizers: Cottonseed Meal or cause severe damage. Do not plant broad leaf trees near a house. They will heal and bark will grow over it. Remove dead or diseased wood at any time of
milogranite because they do not burn plant roots and nutrients are released typically cause foundation cracking. Plant shallow rooted trees such as year. Remove all sucker growth which weakens the plant. Remove all crossed
slowly. Effective chemical fertilizer: 10-8-6
Riverbirch near homes. If a limb has been removed, trim the bark smoothly branches and weak crotch areas. Plant pruning specifics are below:
while forming an oval. After, creating an oval wound apply tree paint.
The only fertilizer needed for Broadleaf evergreen shrubs is an annual dusting
of cottonseed meal, 5-10-5, or azalea-camellia fertilizer. Hollies do not require
frequent pruning because their main growth is in the spring. Sprinkle one cup
of Epsom salt at the base of holly when berries began to show to make them
distasteful for birds. Flowering shrubs should not be formally pruned they
should be allowed to grow in their natural form (Gardenia and Smoke Tree).
Prune only for thickening and uniformity. Flowering shrubs must have 8 hours
of sunlight a day to set blooms and deciduous shrubs desire full sun to display
their best blooms. Water once a week in dry weather. Fertilize in the spring.
Aphid infestation can be controlled by spraying Isotox or Malathion and a hard
spray of water after chemical has been sprayed. Spring flowering shrubs
should be pruned after blooming. Summer flowering shrubs should be pruned
in February or March.
All Groundcovers can be fertilized in spring and then again around July 1 with
cottonseed meal or Milorganite . Sprinkle fertilizer on them and they wash off
gently with water. Vines when planting dig a large hole, add humus, sand and a
slow release fertilizer. Soil near buildings can include concrete and debris. This
will kill vines that thrive in acidic soils. Do not let vines go into winter with dry
soil. All vines can be pruned after blooming. Do not let ivy climb on building
because it will loosen the building structure. Do not allow ivy to grow on trees
because it will kill the tree. Ferns should be planted in their native habitat add
lime to the soil annually. Ferns do not need much maintenance.
Bulbs need moist not soggy soil. Trickle water until soil is wet to a 6 inch depth. Lilies are heavy feeders. Apply 6-12-12 as soon as shoots appear in spring, and
then continue with smaller feeding every 3-4 weeks. Water thoroughly after
fertilizing. Do not allow fertilizer to touch plant otherwise fertilizer burns will
appear.
Mulch shallow rooted plants. Do not use fine textured peat moss; it creates a
hard crust that does not allow water to percolate. Shade tolerate
groundcovers such as vinca minor or wintercreeper can be used as live mulch.
Provide bird habitat within the landscape through incorporating bird baths or
feeding boxes. Birds are a great way to control insects and should be
encouraged.
Remove moss from brick walks with an equal parts solution of bleach and
water. Groundcovers can be vulnerable to fungus in damp weather. Use a
fungicide such as Captan or Benlate to get rid of fungus.
Plant bulbs deeper to slow reproduction of bulbs. Bulbs require well drained
garden soil at a depth of 12 inches. Feed bulbs with 0-20-20 after blooming for
spring bulbs and all bulbs should be exposed to 0-20-20 in the fall.
1. Smoke Tree (Cotinus coggygria): Keep pruning to a minimum on this species.
2. Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): In the first year after planting, prune stems
back to near ground level. In subsequent years, cut all stems back hard. Remove
outward-growing shoots annually in midsummer.
3. Gardenia ( Gardenia jasminoides):
4. Nandina (Nandina domestica): Prune only to keep plant neat. If shaping is
needed prune during early spring.
5. Japanese Ternstroemia (Ternstroemia gymnanthera): No special needs. Shape
lightly in spring if needed.
6. Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata): Minimal pruning is required. Prune only before
new growth begins to encourage branching.
7. Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis): Takes three to four years to establish the basic
framework of the plant. Prune to control extension growth and to encourage
production of lateral flowering spurs. Cut back to within two or three buds of the
base of each branch.
8. English Ivy (Hedera helix): Pinch back weak shoots to encourage strong new
growth. Prune established plants to control height and spread.
9. Vinca (Vinca minor): Prune to control height and spread. Perform a hard prune
every two to three years. Remove all dead material first, then cut plant back four
to six inches above the ground.
10. Flowering Dogwood (Florida cornus): If cutting for foliage and flower care, cut
above an outgrowing twig. In pruning for borers where trunk is badly damaged,
most times the only way to save the tree is to cut it almost to the ground. Shade
and or cold damage can cause an untidy, multi-stemmed tree. This tree should not
be pruned in an attempted to improve its appearance.
11. Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica): Select one to five strong shoots to form
main stems near ground level. This will product a thicket of flowering laterals and
sublaterals. Prune one in three laterals and sublaterals back to established
framework.
12. Dahoon Holly (Ilex cassine): Minimal pruning is required. Prune only before
new growth begins.
13. Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicas): Grab plant leaves and examine the
ground for new shoots, then cut at 3 inches above the ground while avoiding any
new shoots.
14. Lilies (Narcissus psuedonarcissus and Crinum pedunculatum): Dig six to eight
inches away from flower stems. Be careful lily bulbs are easily damaged by shovels.
Use hands or trowel to remove bulbs. Detangle the roots and split any bulbs that
have grown together. Keep bulbs moist on a sunny day in a bag of peat moss or
vermiculite
- Fall division encourages development strong root development
- Early spring division encourages root development, as well as, providing space
for cramped bulbs to send up shoots.
January February March April May June July August September October November December Pruning and Bulb Splitting Information
Fertilize: For Roses apply Fertilize: All of the garden Fertilize: For lawn four to Fertilize: For lawns if not Fertilize: For Roses follow Fertilize: For Roses follow Fertilize: For Roses this is Fertilize: For Lawn four to Fertilize: For Lawn fertilize Fertilize: Fertilize entire Fertilize: For Lawn Apply
cottonseed meal or except acid-loving plants five pounds of fertilizer to done in April (see April). six weeks schedule six weeks schedule the last feeding. Feed five pounds of fertilizer to only if treatment was landscape with 0-20-20 only agricultural lime. Do
milorganite under and iris. Trees only if they every 100 square feet of For Roses apply a timedrelease
establihed in May or establihed in May or before August 10. every 100 square feet of skipped in September. fertilizer, then water not used quick lime.
generous layer of were not tended to in fertilizer lawn. Use a fertilizer high
continue spraying once or continue spraying once or Continue regular lawn. Use a fertilizer that is
thoroughly.
compost. For grass apply January or February. For in nitrogen to promote containing a systemic twice a month. Water all twice a month. Soak watering of landscape. high in potassium such as
lime if needed. Fertilize Gardenias scatter top end growth. During insecticide. Apply directly plants in dry spells. garden with water once a
Muriate of Potash.
all plants except spring aluminum sulphate or hot spells spray half the to soil, work in gently,
week in dry weather.
Continue regular
flowering shrubs. (if not powedered sulfur around dosage of fertilizer or then water rose
watering.
done in January) about a handful for each none at all to prevent thoroughly. Repeat every
plant.
6 weeks, or spray once or
Fertilize: Fertilize trees
and shrubs with 10-8-6
fertilizer. Spray fertilizer
on tree leaves in
combination with
injecting fertilizer into
ground with a root
feeder. For mature trees
use fertilizer sticks and
hammer into the ground
underneath the tree's
dripline. Follow directions
on fertilizers very
carefully.
Chemical Spray:
Broadleaf evergreens
such as camellia and holly
if there is a scale
infestation. Use dormant
oil spray if temperature is
above 40 degrees and
below 80 degrees.
Prune: For Roses watch
for holes in roots where
plants have been
disturbed by wind and
rodents.
fertilizer burns. For Roses
lime the planting bed
with a commerical
agricultural lime.
twice a month (every two
or four weeks) with rose
food using the
recommended amount.
Prune: For Evergreens
prune for size and shape
in the second half of the
month. Prune off berries
to encourage new
blooms. For flowering
shrubs cut out dead
wood only and dispose of
Chemical Spray: Spray a Chemical Spray: For Roses Chemical Spray: For Chemical Spray: For
dormant oil spray on the spray after pruning if not hollies use systemic such Roses spraying is not
garden. This is most done in February. This is as Cygon or Orthene. required for the rest of
effectivethe first or the final spray. Use a Apply just before new this month if fertilizer
second week of this dormant spray of limesulphur
leaves emerge. For vines with systemic insecticide
or a dormant oil use a fungicide such as month or right before the
is used. If not, spray every
buds pop. Spray all plants spray. After new leaves Zineb or Maneb for two weeks with
this is the most appear, start treating spotted leaves. Apply first commericial rose spray
important spray of the Rose for black spot. This spray at first sign of spots. that contains fungicide
year.
treatment should occur Repeat twice at ten-day and insecticide.
twice weekly for the first intervals. For Roses spray
two or three weeks. Then, for aphids and chewing
once weekly throughtout insects. Use 1 tsp. of
the growing season. Use a dishwashing liquid per
fungicide such as Phaltan gallon of water or
or Manzate for black spot Malathion. For Lawn
and mildew. For Lilies
spray as they emerge. If
spray preemergence
herbicide for broad leaf
blight was seen on them weeds like chick weed
last season then spray a and dandelion and broad-
fungicide. Repeat twice at bladed weeds like
ten-day intervals. For Ivy crabgrass. Pick a time
and Vinca minor spray where there will be no
with a fungicide for leaf rain for 48 hours and
spot.
temperature is between
Prune: For Roses if not
pruned in February do so
immediately. For
evergreens finish this
pruning as early as
possible if not finished in
February. For ivy cut back
hard where ever planted.
clippings. For Roses cut all Do not allow to grow on
dead wood, crossed trees. For Ornamental
canes, and weak growth. grasses cut back three
Any suckers (growth inches above the ground.
coming from below the
graft) should be removed
completely and directly
from the main trunk.
55 and 80 degrees.
Prune: For Flowering
Shrubs prune as soon as
they have finished
blooming. For Roses
disbud for better blooms.
Chemical Spray: For Chemical Spray: For
Roses continue same Roses continue same
spraying schedule as last spraying schedule as last
month.
month. For Evergreens
spray for scale with
Malathion or a summer
oil spray.
Chemical Spray: For
Roses continue regularly
insecticide and fungicide
treatment.
Chemical Spray: For Roses
continue regularly
insecticide and fungicide
treatment.
Prune: For Bulbs cut seed Prune: Prune if necessary, Prune: For Roses prune Prune: Prune if necessary, Prune: Prune if necessary,
pods as soon as they form remove any dead or bush lightly around July 1 remove any dead or remove any dead or
because they drain the diseased plant material to encourage new growth diseased plant material diseased plant material
plant's strength. from all plants. for fall blooms. from all plants. from all plnats.
Chemical Spray: None
required
Prune: Prune if necessary,
remove any dead or
diseased plant material
from all plants.
Chemical Spray: For Rose Winter Protection
spray a dormant rose spray Procedures: For Roses
containing lime sulphur, after first hard frost, cover
then mound with 6-7 inches mounded soil with leaves
of soil for winter protection. held in place with
evergreen branches, wire
netting, or other
lightweight material. Do
not do this too soon. For
Evergreens make sure that
these plants enter the
freezing weather well
watered.
Prune: For Rose watch for Prune: None Required
holes at the end of stems. If
any are found cut them off
below the hole and then
burn the old plant material.
Paint the cut ends with tree
paint to prevent entrance
of pest and diseases.
Always use clean, sharp tools, and prune on a slant. Never leave a stub when cutting off large
branches. If branch is cut back and is parallel to the trunk, the cut will heal and bark will grow
over it. Remove dead or diseased wood at any time of year. Remove all sucker growth which
weakens the plant. Remove all crossed branches and weak crotch areas. Plant pruning specifics
are below:
1. Smoke Tree (Cotinus coggygria): Keep pruning to a minimum on this species.
2. Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): In the first year after planting, prune stems back to near
ground level. In subsequent years, cut all stems back hard. Remove outward-growing shoots
annually in midsummer.
3. Gardenia ( Gardenia jasminoides):
4. Nandina (Nandina domestica): Prune only to keep plant neat. If shaping is needed prune
during early spring.
5. Japanese Ternstroemia (Ternstroemia gymnanthera): No special needs. Shape lightly in spring
if needed.
6. Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata): Minimal pruning is required. Prune only before new growth
begins to encourage branching.
7. Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis): Takes three to four years to establish the basic framework of the
plant. Prune to control extension growth and to encourage production of lateral flowering spurs.
Cut back to within two or three buds of the base of each branch.
8. English Ivy (Hedera helix): Pinch back weak shoots to encourage strong new growth. Prune
established plants to control height and spread.
9. Vinca (Vinca minor): Prune to control height and spread. Perform a hard prune every two to
three years. Remove all dead material first, then cut plant back four to six inches above the
ground.
10. Flowering Dogwood (Florida cornus): If cutting for foliage and flower care, cut above an
outgrowing twig. In pruning for borers where trunk is badly damaged, most times the only way
to save the tree is to cut it almost to the ground. Shade and or cold damage can cause an untidy,
multi-stemmed tree. This tree should not be pruned in an attempted to improve its appearance.
11. Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica): Select one to five strong shoots to form main stems
near ground level. This will product a thicket of flowering laterals and sublaterals. Prune one in
three laterals and sublaterals back to established framework.
12. Dahoon Holly (Ilex cassine): Minimal pruning is required. Prune only before new growth
begins.
13. Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicas): Grab plant leaves and examine the ground for new
shoots, then cut at 3 inches above the ground while avoiding any new shoots.
14. Lilies (Narcissus psuedonarcissus and Crinum pedunculatum): Dig six to eight inches away
from flower stems. Be careful lily bulbs are easily damaged by shovels. Use hands or trowel to
remove bulbs. Detangle the roots and split any bulbs that have grown together. Keep bulbs
moist on a sunny day in a bag of peat moss or vermiculite
- Fall division encourages development strong root development
- Early spring division encourages root development, as well as, providing space for cramped
bulbs to send up shoots.
Mulch: For Lilies cover
with compost and provide
winter protection for
tender plants.
Mulch: Replenish mulch
on azaleas and camellias if
needed. Avoid deep
mulching. Gradually
remove leaf cover from
the garden.
Mulch: Apply generous Mulch: Mulch should
mulch covering after never be less than 2
removing leaf litter from inches deep, do not
garden beds.
smother plants.
Mulch: Weed and mulch
all garden beds with 3
inch depth of mulch.
Mulch: Collect all leaves
and compost. Chop up
leaves with lawnmower for
faster decompostion
48 49

Page 50: Top - Sketchup section detail of hardscape surface
Bottom - A section cut through a residence. During this small exercise I was required by my
instructor to use two or more best management practices and combine them into one environment
control system. I proposed a tromble wall, solar array, and lightwell system
Page 51: Quick sections by hand before reconstruction in AutoCad
50 51

Boston Fish Supreme is my first project working with a real client. This restaurant is located in Jackson,
Mississippi. This project was never built, but it did provide me with real world experience with a client
and also allow me to understand the lengthy process architectural project have to go through such as
approval from city officials.
52 53

NO. DESCRIPTION
DATE BY
S O L A R A R R A Y
M O S T O F T H E S T R U C T U R E S
E N E R G Y N E E D S W I L L B E
P R O D U C E D B Y R O O F T O P
S O L A R A R R A Y S .
E X P L O D E D A X O N O M E T R I C
T R I P L E P A N E L O W - E
G L A Z I N G
R E F L E C T S H E A T W H I L E
A L L O W I N G N A T U R A L L I G H T
T O P E N E T R A T E T H E S P A C E
O P E R A B L E
W I N D O W
W I N D O W S A R E W I R E D T O
T H E R M O S T A T O P E N I N G A N D
C L O S I N G W H E N N E E D E D
A L U M I N U M R O O F I N G
R A I N W A T E R W I L L B E C A P -
T U R E D A N D R E U S E D O N
S I T E
G L U L A M W E B
B R A C I N G S T R U C T U R E
W H I C H K E E P L O A D
B E A R I N G B R I C K W A L L S
R I G I D .
E L E C T R I C A L
L I G H T I N G
E L E C T R I C A L L I G H T I N G
P O W E R E D B Y S O L A R
E N E R G Y .
T R O M B E W A L L
T R O M B E A L L O W S F O R P A S -
S I V E S O L A R H E A T I N G A N D
C O O L I N G O F T H E S P A C E .
SHEET PREPARED FOR:
CLASS
NAME HERE
T R I P L E P A N E L O W - E
G L A Z I N G
R E F L E C T S H E A T W H I L E
A L L O W I N G N A T U R A L L I G H T
T O P E N E T R A T E T H E S P A C E
SHEET PREPARED BY:
Student Name
# WALL ISOMETRIC DETAIL B
N O T E
T H I S S P A C E H A S L I V E
V E G E T A T I O N I N S I D E T H U S
I N C R E A S I N G T H E A I R
Q U A L I T Y W I T H I N T H E
S P A C E
PROJECT TITLE
HERE
# HAND RAIL DETAIL SHEET TITLE
REVISIONS
C O U R S E : A R C H 5 6 8 - 0 2
P R O J E C T : “ G R E E N R O O M ”
S T U D E N T : J U S T I N G A N D Y
I N S T R U C T O R : C A R O L I N A M A N R I Q U E
PROJECT NO:
DATUM:
SURVEY:
HORIZ SCALE:
VERT SCALE:
DESIGN:
DRAWN:
CHECKED:
APPROVED:
DATE:
1" = 000'
00/00/0000
SHEET TITLE
A
WALL SECTION DETAIL
WALL SECTION DETAIL
ORIGINAL SHEET SIZE: 22" X 34"
W1
The Cram is a multi-family residence that houses two or more families under the same roof. The site also
includes a restaurant to activate the street corner. Located in Moscow, Idaho this project is adjacent Identity
Apartments. This project’s concept is derived from individual room forms, which are then combined to create
a single massing. This project incorporates solar panels, tromble walls, lightwells, and native vegetation.
54 55

The Cram mimics aspects of its surrounds by taking the circular forms from the Moscow Silos and roughing
them up creating silo-like structures that are more angular and edgy.
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The Twinhouse was a fun and wonderful project to be a part of. Led by Mark Engberg from COLAB
architecture in Portland, Oregon. What made this project unique is that this home is on two seperate plots
of land. This project was designed and built by students at the University of Idaho. I was a part of the design
team. The team was split in two and we designed the homes seperately as groups in Revit.
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Ridge Level
28' - 1 3/4"
Level 3
18' - 3"
Level 2
10' - 5"
Level 1
0' - 0"
Basement
-9' - 0"
Ridge Level
28' - 1 3/4"
Level 3
18' - 3"
Level 2
10' - 5"
Level 1
0' - 0"
Basement
-9' - 0"
A B C D
E
F
G
H I J
SHEET PREPARED FOR:
CLASS
NAME HERE
Ridge Line
28' - 2"
Ridge Line
28' - 2"
SHEET PREPARED BY:
Student Name
Level 3
18' - 0"
Level 3
18' - 0"
Level 2
10' - 0"
Level 2
10' - 0"
PROJECT TITLE
HERE
Level 1
0' - 0"
Level 1
0' - 0"
REVISIONS
NO. DESCRIPTION
DATE BY
Basement
-9' - 0"
Basement
-9' - 0"
PROJECT NO:
DATUM:
SURVEY:
HORIZ SCALE: 1" = 000'
VERT SCALE:
DESIGN:
DRAWN:
CHECKED:
APPROVED:
DATE: 00/00/0000
SHEET TITLE
SHEET TITLE
1
SITE PLAN
N
ORIGINAL SHEET SIZE: 22" X 34"
L1
SHEET PREPARED FOR:
CLASS
NAME HERE
6
5
4
3
2
1
SHEET PREPARED BY:
Student Name
PROJECT TITLE
HERE
REVISIONS
NO. DESCRIPTION
DATE BY
1
SITE PLAN
N
ORIGINAL SHEET SIZE: 22" X 34"
PROJECT NO:
DATUM:
SURVEY:
HORIZ SCALE: 1" = 000'
VERT SCALE:
DESIGN:
DRAWN:
CHECKED:
APPROVED:
DATE: 00/00/0000
SHEET TITLE
SHEET TITLE
L1
The two sides of the home were later combined in Revit where materiality, connection detaisl, window datam
lines, and more were established. I was the lead on landscaping, topography, and hydrology. I completed my
tasks in Sketchup and then converted it into Revit. I was a huge part of creating the visual aesthetic for this
project. Also working in Revit allowed me to improve my revit skills significantly.
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COMPOSITE OVERLAY
300
The map above displays a total weighted overlay of all sets of data
that our studio felt would give us the best results to develop parks.
The maps used in the overlay includes: Shelby County parks,
Shelby County land-cover, Shelby County parcels, Shelby County
canopy, floodplains, Census data / population pressure - based on
population growth. Those maps were used to show available areas
based on their proximity to key elements: schools, vacant lands,
community centers, and other recreational play. All of the maps
were classified and assigned specific values that told the final map
if the area was desirable or not. The values ranged from 1-9; If
the value was identified as a 1 - it was considered not desirable,
but if it scored a 9 - it was classified as most desirable. The main
areas highlighted were those who scored +8. The targeted areas,
if a new park is to be built there, will now 55serve and become
accessible to a large population.
LEGEND
205
15
240
14
Freeway or Major Road
Major Road < Freeway
Other Major Road
Secondary Road
Major Highways
Minor Highways
Target Areas
Least Desirable
Most Desirable
14
TARGET
#2
240
MEMPHIS
TARGET
#1
57
GIS analysis of Memphis
metro area. This analysis
was used to highlight prime
plots of land to develop into
a park for multiple uses and
activities. This project was
completed in teams of three
students.
TARGET
#3
35.245411, -89.898240
This target was chosen because it is on vacant land and has
an open canopy. This area is projected to grow at a rate of 1.3
to 2.5 percent. Accessibility to the site would be easy. Singleton
Parkway and Egypt Central Road are the two main street to the
site. There is potential to make a primary connection from the
adjacent neighborhood directly to the target area. The majority
of the surrounding area is single family detached and is located
at the edge of the agricultural district. The site is also on the
edge of the flood plain that is the Loosahatchie River. This
target area will better serve the surrounding community, with a
park or green space, that is otherwise under serve.
35.176779, -89.882192
This target area was chosen because it is vacant land has a
semi open canopy. This area is projected to grow at a rate of 1.3
to 2.5 percent. Accessibility to the site is very easy. The property
is accessible from Bartlett Road and potentially Pleasant View
Road. Surrounding our site is mostly single family detached
housing with some multifamily attached housing. Although there
is a school with park like amenities to the east of the target area,
it is not open to the public. This target area will better serve
the surrounding community, with a park or green space, that is
otherwise under serve.
35.192688, -89.817793
This target area was selected because of its location in
the dense residential setting along with its open canopy.
Accessibility to the site from Reese Road and Appling Road
is very easy. Geologically, being on a corner lot makes it
a great location for exposer to the community. The area
has been constantly growing a rate of 1.3 to 2.5 percent.
Although there is a recreational park three quarters of a mile
away, the location chosen has potential to become a passive
park.
35.039609, -89.716671
This target area was selected because it is on vacant land
with an open canopy. Accessibility to the site is very easy.
Winchester Road or Shea Road are the two accessible points.
The surrounding area is single family detached, multifamily
attached, and multifamily high rise housing. This area is
projected to grow at a rate of 1.3 to 2.5 percent. The closest
park is 2.2 miles away making this a prime spot to better serve
the community with a functional green space.
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l e n d e d

Spokane, Washington, USA has a long history of industrial manufacturing. One of
those manufacturing industries is the paper industry. The paper machine is the most
essential machine in the paper mill. This is where paper is created. The pulp solution
is sprayed onto a wiring system that is run through a series of felt covered rollers,
some wet some dry, until the pulp is flattened into its typical paper form, we see in
our copy machines. I chose this machine to study because paper mills are such an
essential industry in the northwest. I decided to explore what the location of a
temporary artist residential building and art studio could be for the northwest region
of the United States and not just Washington and Spokane alone. Spokane is the
closest major urban area to a significant number of Washingtonians and Idahoans, so
why not look at this structure as a beacon for artists, citizens, and tourists. Why not
allow this structure to become a driving force in not just Spokane’s economy, but the
northwest region’s economy? Designers must inspire people to reach their full
creative socioeconomic potential.
I have heard Spokane referred to as “grungy” or “ghetto”. Subsequently, I decided to
embrace these words and the feeling I received while traveling and spending time in
Spokane. My color palette is full of cool tones, I saw Spokane on a sunny day only
once. The cloudy and overcast atmosphere of Spokane along with its Gothic-Style
architecture and retro building style lends a mystical aura I tried to capture in my
drawings. I noticed quite a few graffiti murals and tags around Spokane also, which
made me fall in love somewhat with this retro city. Graphically, I combined my
drawings in much the same way graffiti artists battle for wall space. The boldest and
largest elements protrude outward allowing them to be more visible when viewing,
but these protrusions were not my points of interest. I decided to go back into my
final collage and find small dark spaces with character. I decided to link spots
together creating a series of linework that could be understood as building
circulation. I created planes to inform me of the feelings one could have approaching
because of scale rather than just form alone. This project “PAPERMAKER” is about the
structure becoming a living machine existing even without human interaction like an
ominous mythical creator from the year 4020, but somehow attracts humans into
its world of fantasy with ease. This structure is a study on machine labor versus
human intervention.
An Artist in Residence project
located in Spokane, Washington,
near Riverfront Park. The concept
of this project was required by our
instructor to be developed from
our own research and knowledge
about a machine, any machine
that may have been instrumental
in establishing Spokane. I chose a
papermaker as my machine. Paper
mills are abundant in Spokane.
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Page 76: Exterior elevation
representing facade materiality
before graffiti or murals are
applied. This elevation also shows
the path that sunlight follows.
Page 78: This exterior elevation
suggest what A.I.R may look like
after artist have moved in and
made their presence known.
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A.I.R. is an acronym for Artists in
Residence. The conceptual stage
of this project was inspired by
the rhythm, scale, processes,
motion, speed, and more of the
papermaker. This information was
converted into abstract images
and patterns, which informed
my design ideas and helped
me understand the essence of
this machine. I decided that
papermakers are machines
operating in tension and constant
motion. This is why A.I.R. is an
art gallery and residence that
never touches the ground, always
suspended from an umbrella
roof formed by tensive cables.
Embodying and combining street
art and graffiti culture with
art museum culture. Art is for
everyone. A.I.R. allows artists to
express themselves inside as well
as outside.
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Amphibious architecture is a method and philosophy of building structures that embrace flood events, floating when
significant rain has fallen. Once flooding has passed, the structures return to their foundation. The E.D.N.A. (Educate
Development Nourish Alleviate) project provides written and graphic guidelines for building flood-fortified structures in
Mississippi. To raise awareness and educate impoverished rural homeowners and their communities about environmental
injustices, climate change, and alternative building techniques. Intended to lessen or eliminate flood damages and
casualties, E.D.N.A. embodies the architectural history, resilience, and spirit of the impoverished populations of Mississippi.
82 83

The primary goal of E.D.N.A. is
to educate impoverished rural
homeowners throughout Mississippi
about current building techniques
within Mississippi, past building
techniques within Mississippi,
global building techniques, climate
change, flood statistics, and
amphibious building techniques.
As stated by George Washington
Carver, “Education is the key
to unlock the golden door to
freedom.”
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The second goal of E.D.N.A. is to help accelerate the development of rural communities before and after
flood events in Mississippi. Many rural towns of Mississippi need more population density to support
their town’s economy. E.D.N.A. provides a unique building footprint that facilitates population density
or the illusion of it while providing safer, more resilient housing for rural homeowners. E.D.N.A. homes
are irregular pentagonal forms to amplify views outward into the landscape for homeowner security
purposes. In addition, the irregular pentagonal form reduces drag on the home once the site is inundated
by water compared to the traditional four-sided rectilinear home form. A modular design approach,
E.D.N.A. studio homes accommodate a kitchen, living room, bathroom, bedroom, and utility spaces in an
irregular pentagon with a maximum area of 315 square feet. This amount of square footage was carefully
configured to minimize material waste and construction expenses while maximizing the buoyancy of
the home. Additional pentagons can be constructed as families grow and require more square footage.
E.D.N.A. homes with two or more modules will be connected by external wood decks framing an outdoor
room, allowing for open-air circulation between spaces. As the footprint of E.D.N.A. grows, the modules
fragment into specialized spaces for specific uses creating larger social and private spaces. E.D.N.A.
homes can be and are encouraged to be arranged whichever way the homeowner envisions as long as it
aligns with the well-being of the fauna and flora on-site. In addition, pentagonal forms will never resolve
completely into a solid shape. This means that regardless of how E.D.N.A modules are configured, they will
have voids or space between them.
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INTERNAL TWO-POINT PERSPECTIVE
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EXTERNAL TWO-POINT PERSPECTIVE
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