FIRST MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023 No347 THE PEARL JUBILEE ISSUE

THIS IS WINE
Above: The name Zýmē, from Greek, means “yeast.” Located in the heart of Valpolicella Classica, Zýmē’s new wine cellar in an ancient sandstone quarry, dating back to the 15th
century, testifies to the intimate interrelationship between Zýmē’s philosophy and its local corner of earth. This underground complex, irresistibly fascinating and radiating an utterly
distinctive genius loci, provides unique continuity between the past of tradition and the future of innovation. As the locus where nature, culture, and history converge, the quarry
serves as the very foundation stone of Zýmē, its bodily structure fashioned of natural stone, the magical cavern in which, year after year, the wines mature, then finally enter the
bottle. Photography Chiara Bellamoli, courtesy Zýmē di Celestino Gaspari.
Zýme ¯ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2017
exclusively represented by Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s
Zýmē by Celestino Gaspari, the son-inlaw
of Giuseppe Quintarelli, from
whom he takes his inspiration, having
worked alongside the maestro for several years
before venturing out on his own, sees himself
more as an alchemist in the hard tough skills
of crafting beautiful wines out of tough raw
elements. This blend is Corvina, Corvinone,
Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina.
2017 is a very good year in Amarone
country with just enough heat to call for a
generous fruit-forward wine without any lack
of acidity and freshness, having not suffered
the extreme heat and dryness Tuscany
underwent. Apart from their flagship Riserva
La Mattonara they also produce a one-of-akind
blend Kairos from 15 grape varieties,
which I thoroughly recommend. The
Amarone is produced in good years with dry
racking for 4 months, macerations for 2/3
weeks after fermentation for 35 days and 3-
year barrelling.
Zýmē’s Amarone della Valpolicella 2017 is
suede leather, sun-dried cherries and raisins,
wild almonds, camphor, baked spices, lavender
and fruit cake. A racy attack of ripe and tart
fruit with beautifully wrought layers of
complexity nicely enveloped by a luminosity
in the mid-palate allowing for a lightness to
accompany the depths of flavour and aroma.
With time pipe tobacco, cocoa nibs, cut
grass, whisky, toasted brioche all ending in a
treacle finish. Pretty elegant, smooth flowing,
a far cry from the fudged heavy-handed
Amarones readily available on the market.
Close to a serene reduced style of old.
Having had this before I think it is far more
open now than a year ago.
Supplier details: Vini e Capricci has a vast selection of Italian and French wines. Some wines in the Zýmē portfolio include Harlequin,
Amarone DOP Classico Riserva 2006 “La Mattonara”, Amandorlato Recioto della Valpolicella Classico, Kairos, Oseleta, Valpolicella DOP Classico Superiore.
Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s, Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija Gozo.
Tel 00356 2156 3231. Web viniecapricci.com
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