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replaced by short, sharp intense sessions darting
from bolthole to bolthole whenever conditions
allowed. Up to now everything had seemed so
certain, but for now at least the only certainty
was the uncertainty of what lay ahead.
�e further north we went the more frequent
were the delays. Unlike most ocean rows this
expedition was to be an exercise in strategy
over endurance. Weather systems were known
for their volatility, sweeping in with very little
warning and with potentially devastating effect.
Consequently a route of some 73 potential
anchorage points had been mapped out so
we could, as and when necessary, seek refuge
quickly from the weather and/or ice.
�e stop start nature of the expedition meant
that whilst on the one hand it was a race against
time it was also a long protracted game of
patience – which itself presented challenges.
Mindful of the task in hand it was crucial we
used any delays to our advantage, both to keep
our sanity and our sharpness. Getting su�cient
rest was important, but so too was keeping our
eye on the ball and preparing as best we could
for what might lie ahead. So rather than sitting
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idle, training drills were rehearsed, supplies
counted, the boat cleaned and any necessary
boat maintenance completed… not to mention
cabins fumigated!
�e rowing was, at times, exhausting and the
days spent waiting frustrating, but rarely a day
would go by when we weren’t reminded of just
how lucky we were to be in this special part
of the world. So many childhood dreams are
rooted in the ‘north’ and here we were living
them. Whilst a sighting of Santa Claus was
probably unlikely, the abundance of magical
wildlife more than made up for it – from seals,
walruses, wolves, foxes, whales, reindeer and
of course the much coveted polar bear. With
every sighting ordinary days were instantly
transformed into extraordinary experiences.
An average day on board The Old Pulteney was
a colourful experience. We rowed in two ‘shi�’
systems for three hours at any one given time –
with one man on the helm at all times. We would
each consume four dehydrated meals per day and
one day bag to graze on during and in between
time on the oars (calorific, high energy ‘treats’), in
total allowing for around 6,000 calories per man
per day. It wasn’t gourmet, but unlike the bears,
at least we didn’t have to hunt for our food.
Water was provided either through the on-board
desalinator machine or through stocks collected
from fresh water streams en route.
We would sleep in between shi�s, as and when
our bodies (like computers) needed to shut down
and reboot. When the conditions demanded it,
all six would have to rest at the same time, with
two in the forward and four in the a� cabins
– a challenge far greater than you could ever
imagine requiring a shoe horn to get us in and can
opener to get us out! As for the ‘facilities’ they were
basic but, like so much of the boat, functional – and
for those brave enough (or gently encouraged
by fellow crew mates) showers were taken in the
occasional Arctic stream!
As we ventured further north so ice encounters
became more frequent and tactical stops to
summit hills and plot the path ahead more
necessary. MDA Geospatial provided a crucial
service during the expedition, affectionately
referred to as our ‘eye in the sky’. With their
constant feed of satellite images highlighting
the ice coverage, combined with our ‘live’