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Private Dancer by Stephen Leather (.pdf

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"Let me tell you about Thais, Pete," said Bruce, patting me on the back.<br />

"Sometimes you think you're in trouble when you're really not. And sometimes when<br />

you think everything is hunky dory, you're in so much shit they’ll need a submarine to<br />

find you. Nothing is as it seems, grasshopper.”<br />

BRUCE<br />

I meant what I said about Thais. They're easy to rub up the wrong way, but if you<br />

handle them right, they're genuinely nice people. Take taxi drivers, for instance. The<br />

first time I came to Bangkok, I was always getting into arguments with them. They'd<br />

either get lost or not want to take me or they'd refuse to use the meter. Now I can<br />

speak a little Thai and I understand them a bit more. For one thing, Bangkok's huge,<br />

with twice as many people as London, and for another, the road naming and<br />

numbering system is crazy. Roads meander all over the place and at times the<br />

numbering of houses seems almost random. It's not like England where the houses on<br />

one side are consecutive odd numbers with the even numbers on the other side. In<br />

Bangkok the numbers relate to the plot of land, so unless you know exactly where<br />

you're going, it's dead easy to get lost. And maps aren't part of Thai culture, either.<br />

Most people haven't a clue how to relate a map to their surroundings. You never see<br />

Thais using them. Now I almost never get into confrontations with taxi drivers<br />

because I know how to handle them.<br />

Take last week for example. My car was in for a service so I was using taxis to get<br />

around. I was on the outskirts of the city and it was close to rush hour and the first<br />

four cabs I stopped just didn't want to go to Sukhumvit. I knew why: at rush hour it<br />

can lock up solid. Anyway, I got into the fifth taxi that stopped and told him in<br />

English where I wanted to go. Then I sat looking out of the window, ignoring his<br />

protests. Okay, so eventually he starts driving. Half an hour later, the car judders to a<br />

halt. He starts up again, we drive a few hundred feet, and we shudder and stop again.<br />

"Car no good," he says.<br />

I lean forward and watch as he starts the car again. The engine stalls. Why?<br />

Because the bugger's slipping his foot off the clutch, that's why. I don't say anything,<br />

because Thais hate criticism. Loss of face and all that. He gets out of the car,<br />

muttering to himself, and lifts up the bonnet. Stands looking at the engine and shaking<br />

his head. I tell you, this guy was the Robert De Niro of taxi drivers. Oscar material.<br />

He fumbles with the battery leads, mutters again, then slams the bonnet shut. He<br />

opens the passenger door for me. "Car no good," he says, sincerity dripping from<br />

every pore. "I get new taxi for you. Sorry."<br />

So I get out of the taxi and he walks to the back and starts trying to flag down<br />

another cab. Now, I know full well what's going on here. He plans to get a taxi to<br />

stop, then he'll tell the driver to keep me talking while he drives off. Then taxi driver<br />

number two will refuse to take me, and he'll drive off as well, leaving me stranded. I<br />

34

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