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Star Ware: The Amateur Astronomer's Guide to Choosing, Buying ...

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248 <strong>Star</strong> <strong>Ware</strong><br />

most important requirement of the astropho<strong>to</strong>grapher, followed closely by the<br />

right equipment. It’s <strong>to</strong>ugh <strong>to</strong> bottle the former for sale, but there are lots of<br />

companies looking <strong>to</strong> sell you the latter!<br />

Cameras<br />

While successful astropho<strong>to</strong>graphs can be taken with many different types of<br />

cameras, most amateurs prefer the 35-mm single-lens reflex (SLR) camera.<br />

Single-lens reflexes allow the pho<strong>to</strong>grapher <strong>to</strong> look directly through the lens of<br />

the camera itself, a critical feature for aligning the image, especially when pho<strong>to</strong>graphing<br />

through a telescope (with most other cameras, the pho<strong>to</strong>grapher is<br />

viewing through a separate viewfinder). SLRs also offer the maximum flexibility<br />

in terms of film and lens availability, both discussed later in this chapter.<br />

Not all 35-mm SLRs are suitable. For astropho<strong>to</strong>graphy, a camera must<br />

have a removable lens with manually adjustable focus, provisions for attaching<br />

a cable release <strong>to</strong> the camera and the camera <strong>to</strong> a tripod, a manually set,<br />

mechanical shutter with a “B” (bulb) setting, mirror lockup, and interchangeable<br />

focusing screens. Unfortunately, few of <strong>to</strong>day’s 35-mm SLRs fit this bill. In<br />

an attempt <strong>to</strong> attract more weekend pho<strong>to</strong>graphers, most camera manufacturers<br />

offer cameras with au<strong>to</strong>matic everything, from focus <strong>to</strong> exposure <strong>to</strong> flash<br />

control. All of these are nice for taking pictures of the family picnic, but are of<br />

no use <strong>to</strong> astropho<strong>to</strong>graphers. Quite <strong>to</strong> the contrary, the long exposures<br />

required for astropho<strong>to</strong>s (usually measured in minutes, even hours) will<br />

quickly drain the power from expensive camera batteries. When that happens,<br />

the camera shuts down and becomes useless until a fresh set of batteries is<br />

inserted.<br />

Which cameras are best for astropho<strong>to</strong>graphy? Table 7.12 lists several<br />

excellent alternatives, from both the past and the present.<br />

Expensive does not necessarily mean better for astropho<strong>to</strong>graphy. All of<br />

these cameras will work well for wide-field constellation shots as well as<br />

through-the-telescope pho<strong>to</strong>s of the Moon and the Sun, but their differences<br />

will become more apparent when taking long-exposure telescopic shots. Here,<br />

the benefit of interchangeable focusing screens and mirror lockup will become<br />

apparent. Most subjects pho<strong>to</strong>graphed through telescopes are very faint, making<br />

it difficult <strong>to</strong> line up and focus the shot when viewing through most standard<br />

focusing screens. A simple ground-glass screen will provide the brightest<br />

possible images, a great aid in focusing and composing (see further discussion<br />

under “Focusing Aids” later in this chapter). Mirror lockup is recommended<br />

for reducing mirror slap, which occurs every time the shutter is tripped and the<br />

camera mirror pivots out of the way. Swinging the mirror out of the way before<br />

the shutter is opened eliminates most vibration, reducing the chances for<br />

blurred images.<br />

Lenses<br />

Just as all cameras are not suitable for pho<strong>to</strong>graphing the sky, neither are all<br />

lenses. But before an educated choice can be made, the pho<strong>to</strong>grapher must

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