Canadian World Traveller Spring 2024 Issue

degree of life to the remote fishing village of
Conche, which like many other communities
was decimated by a 1992 Canadian government
moratorium on cod fishing. A short hike
from the settlement of 250 people leads to a
restored lighthouse and a waterfall, as well as
the Glass Hole, a stunning granite cavern
with a jagged window on the Atlantic. We
were thrilled when locals served us a meal in
their community hall, complete with song and
dance.
L’Anse aux Meadows is the only confirmed
archeological site of Norse settlement on the
North American continent. A UNESCO World
Heritage site, it dates from the 11th century
but was only excavated in the 1960s. Daily
reenactments of ancient life are offered
among the remains of eight buildings, built of
sod over wooden frames. More than 800
Viking objects, including Iron and Bronze Age
artifacts, have been unearthed here at the
northernmost tip of Newfoundland island.
On the Labrador mainland, we made a lone
stop at Red’s Cay, a former Basque whaling
port. The local museum showcases the wreck
of a whaling boat more than 400 years old,
along with tools and navigational instruments.
We lunched at the Whalers
Restaurant, which served some of the best
fish and chips I’ve ever had.
Gros Morne National Park ís another
UNESCO site, acclaimed for its unique geology
and population of moose. It is crowned
by The Tablelands, Newfoundland’s secondhighest
elevation, which appear desert-like
but also contain a forested area. Woody
Point, an alluring town in the heart of the
park, has many historical waterfront buildings.
Cox’s Cove, Tony Oxford’s village, is another
significant fishing and lodging community.
We hiked to a waterfall and plunged into the
frigid water at its foot for (in my case a very
quick dip. Later in the day at the abandoned
settlement of Brake’s Cove, I went kayaking
while my fellow expeditioners enjoyed a
beach barbecue of mussels, fish and local
beer.
On an educational stopover at Chief Joe’s
Miawpukek First Nation on the Conne River,
we enjoyed a vísit to the Ta’n etl-Mawita’mk
Community Center. Here Mi’kmaq elders told
us about their history, and young people performed
traditional songs and dances.
Our final stopover before returning to St.
John’s was the charming island of St. Pierre.
To this day, the domain remains distinctly
French, a self-governing overseas territory of
France. As such, we had to produce our passports.
In particular, I was pleased to pay a small
premium to join 10 other guests in seakayaking
expeditions. Led by guides Barb
and Cathy, we glided through pristine bays
and past picturesque shorelines, viewing
landscapes and settlements by the sea.
Weather permitting
“Go with the flow while we attempt to stick to
a set itinerary,” recommended Scott
McDougall, our expedition leader. “That’s not
always the case,” he warned. “It means that
no two journeys will ever be the same.”
Ultimately, weather plays a leading role in
expedition sailings. During evening briefings,
the first matter of the coming day is how the
weather will be. While not as unpredictable
as in polar regions, Newfoundland weather
can quickly change from sun to thunderstorms.
Heavy winds might be in the forecast
at your next destination, canceling a scheduled
stop. Changes in plans mean that each
individual experience will never be duplicated.
How one adapts to change will affect the outcome
of any expedition. On this October
cruise, inclement weather nearly caused us to
miss a stop at picturesque Francois. Yet the
Endeavour’s relatively small size, with a
capacity of under 200 passengers, made it
possible to navigate a new course. Zodiac
craft transported guests to shore, giving us a
rare opportunity to experience a choppy ride
on big waves in a rough sea.
Travelers, not tourists
Adventure Canada is the exclusive polar
provider of the Explorers Club, founded in
1904. Notable explorers and scientists may
be among the passengers on any expedition.
Expedition cruising is one of the fastest-growing
sectors in travel. Sustainable, responsible
travel, and an interest in protecting the environment,
are no longer just buzzwords. With
a commitment to regenerative tourism,
Adventure Canada’s Newfoundland
Circumnavigation teaches about the rich tapestry
of cultures while treading lightly on
lands, preserving flora and fauna. New
routes are on the minds of cruise lines and on
travelers’ radar, making off-the-beaten-path
Newfoundland ripe for greater exploration.
Adventure Canada is a small-ship expedition
cruise line. Unforgettable encounters shepherded
by a stellar expedition team who
showcase their expertise in culture, history,
indigenous people, photography, geology,
marine biology, flora, fauna and music.
Many are native Newfoundlanders who bring
their culture on board.
Refurbished in 2015, the well-appointed
Ocean Endeavour offers comfort and stability
similar to newer ships. Our 13-day circumnavigation
of Newfoundland covered 1,225
nautical miles and 150 hours at sea. We
learned a fascinating history while lightly
treading its pristine land.
Travel changes us like nothing else. As Dennis
Minty told guests in an early lecture: “The
tourist arrives at a destination perhaps seeking
familiarity, a McDonald’s or maybe an
all-inclusive hotel. You all came on this expedition
with an open mind and a thirst to learn
because you’re travelers. You want to venture
off the beaten path, eat and drink with locals,
and immerse yourself in the culture and
land.”
Indeed, I came to celebrate this unique land’s
people, sights, sounds and folklore. Keeping
it local, I channeled Tony Oxford’s greeting,
“Whadda y’at?” and, of course, my reply,
“This is it.”
www.adventurecanada.com
newfoundlandandlabrador.com
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World Traveler Spring 2024