Canadian World Traveller Spring 2024 Issue

8
Tale of Two Spanish Cities - Medieval splendor dazzles visitors
topple off their perch and into the abyss. You
can stand on one of the balconies if you visit
the Museum of Spanish Abstract Art or gourmet
restaurant Casas Colgadas Jesus Segura,
tenants of the Hanging Houses.
In medieval times, why did builders push to
the precipice? The answer: real estate was
scarce and every foot counted. Because land
was at a premium, some houses were built
eight to 12 stories high. These “skyscrapers,”
many of them today painted in bright colors,
were among the tallest buildings in Europe
until the 20th century.
Cuenca does not have a long checklist of
must-see sights, which suits me just fine. I’m
happy just wandering and getting lost in the
cobbled lanes, soaking up the history that
crosses my path—and taking picture after picture.
The refreshing lack of tourist hordes
makes it even more delightful.
Ijuujoh!uif!Ifjhiut!jo!Dvfodb
With ancient buildings stacked on a
steep promontory where two river
gorges meet, Cuenca projects a
dramatic profile, one different from any other
city in Spain. Because it’s not on the traditional
tour circuit, this medieval gem 105 miles
southeast of Madrid, is off the radar of most
North American travelers, a fact that adds to
its beguiling appeal.
In Cuenca it’s all about the heights. Think vertical.
Looking up or gazing down, you’ll find
yourself constantly taking in the views.
Traipsing around narrow streets and passageways,
you’ll encounter one vantage point after
another that provides a fresh new slant on the
cliff-clinging houses.
by Randy Mink
Those afraid of heights get nervous crossing
San Pablo footbridge, a wooden walkway that
spans the Huecar River 200 feet below. It’s a
major attraction in itself, an Instagrammable
spot for sure. If you’re staying at Parador de
Cuenca, as our group was, the bridge is the
most direct way of getting to the atmospheric
Ciudad Alta, or Old City. We crossed it several
times a day. (Page 79 has my report on
Parador de Cuenca, a monastery-turnedhotel.)
From the bridge you have fine views of
Cuenca’s most emblematic attraction—the
Hanging Houses, or Casas Colgadas. The
wooden balconies of this trio of 14th century
dwellings jut out over a sheer cliff. Appearing
to defy gravity, the buildings seem about to
The heart of this UNESCO World Heritage city
is Plaza Mayor, which spreads in a linear fashion
from the Cathedral, passing through the
arch of the town hall. Outdoor cafes lend a
lively air, and the red tram departs from the
square for tours.
While Spain has better known churches,
Cuenca’s cathedral is truly impressive. Largely
built between 1156 and 1256, it was the first
Gothic church on the Iberian peninsula.
Statuary, paintings, expanses of marble and
lavishly adorned chapels reflected the city’s
wealth in medieval days. The two pipe organs
date from the 18th century. Our group heard
their melodious sounds while seated in the
ornately carved wooden choir stalls during
an evening concert.
If staying in Cuenca overnight, make sure to
walk the footbridge after dark and cast your
eyes on the Old City’s rock face, floodlit in all
its glory. The magical vision lingers long after
a visit to this intriguing city off the beaten
path.
www.spain.info/en/destination/cuenca/
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