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Photography Composition - 12 Composition Rules for Your Photos to Shine By James Carren

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ackground are always mentioned, but seldom is midground. Don’t <strong>for</strong>get that you have<br />

your whole frame <strong>to</strong> use, and you should try <strong>to</strong> fill it all with points of interest so that the<br />

viewer’s eye doesn’t just get stuck at the <strong>for</strong>eground. Even if your first instinct may be <strong>to</strong><br />

put your main subject in the <strong>for</strong>eground, consider taking a shot or two where they step<br />

back just enough <strong>to</strong> be considered midground. Or even, hide your main subject in the<br />

background and allow your viewer <strong>to</strong> discover it, not be hit over the head by it.<br />

Now, if you are using a shallow depth of field, you may wonder why you need points of<br />

interest in the midground and background. They won’t be in focus so what’s the point,<br />

right? Well, sometimes having that little shadow of something lurking in the background,<br />

be it a cabinet or another person, can be enough <strong>to</strong> pique the interest of a viewer.<br />

Sometimes, a pho<strong>to</strong>graph is not just about the main subject at all.<br />

The nice thing about depth of field, <strong>to</strong>o, is that you can change it from sharp <strong>to</strong> shallow or<br />

vice versa and still have the same exposure time as you did be<strong>for</strong>e. These are called<br />

equivalent exposures. You just adjust your aperture, and then change the shutter speed<br />

accordingly so that your camera is still allowing the same amount of light in<strong>to</strong> the lens.<br />

And voila! Same exposure, different depth of field.<br />

You’ll probably find, over time, that you like a certain style of depth of field more than the<br />

other, and that’s okay. That, in part, will develop in<strong>to</strong> your own personal aesthetic.

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