Caribbean Beat — March/April 2020 (#162)

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need to knowThe view of Nelson’s Dockyardfrom Shirley Heights, AntiguaQuiggyt4/Shutterstock.comAll About . . .Nelson and AntiguaAt the end of April, as sailors from around the world converge at Antigua SailingWeek (26 April to 1 May), the prize they’ll all be eyeing is the Lord Nelson Trophy— named, like Antigua’s Nelson’s Dockyard, for one Horatio Nelson, the mostcelebrated naval commander in British history.Born in 1758, Nelson was just twelve years old when he joined the Royal Navy,sailing across the Atlantic to Jamaica and Tobago. But the West Indian islandhe’s most closely associated with is Antigua, where he was stationed at EnglishHarbour from 1784 (complaining bitterly about the mosquitoes). His friendshipswith West Indian plantation owners influenced his staunch pro-slavery views,which have made him a controversial figure in the post-Independence Caribbean.He later won fame for his service in the Mediterranean during the NapoleonicWars, before being killed at the Battle of Trafalgar.The Lord Nelson TrophyFirst awarded at Antigua Sailing Weekin 1968, the Lord Nelson Trophy — animpressive silver bowl — has beentaken five times by teams from Antiguaand Barbuda, but Puerto Rico is theCaribbean territory with the most wins:nine in all, including the inaugural year.Boats registered in other Caribbeanterritories account for eight othervictories.Where history docksEnglish Harbour on Antigua’s southcoast, naturally sheltered from Atlantichurricanes, was used as a refuge forBritish ships as early as 1671. In 1743, theRoyal Navy dockyard was established atits current site — the chief facility forthe repair of naval vessels in the BritishWest Indies, built with the labour ofenslaved Africans. Famous for its heavyfortifications, the dockyard was neverattacked, not even at the height of theNapoleonic Wars. Closed in 1889, thedockyard was more or less abandonedfor half a century, till the British governorof the island launched a restorationinitiative in 1951. Ten years later, it wasofficially opened as a historical site,now named for Nelson, becoming oneof Antigua and Barbuda’s most populartourist attractions. Said to be themost complete surviving example of aGeorgian dockyard in the world, it’s nowa national park, headquarters for AntiguaSailing Week, and a working dockyard foryachts. The surrounding hills are dottedwith the forts that once protected theharbour — Shirley Heights being themost impressive, with its breathtakingviews and Sunday sunset parties.Yo-ho-ho and a barrelFamously, after Nelson was killed atTrafalgar, his body was transportedback to England in a barrel of brandy(rather than being buried at sea — theusual fate of less celebrated corpses).The incident was prefigured yearsearlier when Nelson departed Antiguafor the last time. Ill, and concernedhe might perish on the transatlanticjourney, he travelled with a barrel of rumto preserve his body if needed.Hero or — ?Nelson’s best-known monument is thestatue atop the column in London’sTrafalgar Square. But that was predatedby almost thirty years by a similarmonument in Bridgetown, capital ofBarbados — for generations, the pointfrom which distances on the island weremeasured. In recent decades, debateabout Nelson’s role in British imperialismand his views on slavery have fuelled acampaign to have the statue removed.In 1999, the surrounding square wasrenamed National Heroes Square, inhonour of Barbados’s ten officiallyrecognised National Heroes. The statueitself was subsequently turned around180 degrees, and has occasionally beensplashed with paint and bedecked withplacards, but thus far remains standing.For the Antigua Sailing Weekschedule and other information,visit www.sailingweek.com30WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
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Page 14 and 15: ContentsNo. 162 • March/April 202
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Caribbean Beat — March/April 2020 (#162)

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