α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril ... - Alluredbooks.com
α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril ... - Alluredbooks.com
α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril ... - Alluredbooks.com
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Index<br />
A<br />
<strong>α</strong>,<strong>α</strong>-<strong>Diethylpyridine</strong> (<strong>Verdima</strong>), <strong>261–262</strong><br />
<strong>Abril</strong>, 183<br />
Absolu de Rochas, 195<br />
Absolute of Jasmine (cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide), 40<br />
Acetal E (acetaldehyde phenyl ethyl-ethyl acetal), 45<br />
Acetal R (phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal), 45<br />
acetaldehyde (Elintaal), 14, 45<br />
acetals, 17<br />
Acetomarane, 23<br />
acetyl guaiacol (II), 106<br />
acetyl thujopsene, 27<br />
acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene (Trimofix), 28<br />
acid, food, lactone and carmelized family, 64<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Damascone thiomethyl ether, 69<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one],<br />
15, 19, 41, 43, 81<br />
Adoxal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17<br />
Agarwood, 87<br />
agrestical family, 3, 4–5, 23–25, 50–52, 84–91, 147–154<br />
Agrumal, 17, 125<br />
Agrumen, 17<br />
Agrunitril (citronellyl nitrile), 37<br />
Agua Brava, 48<br />
Agua Fresca by Adolfo Dominguez, 95<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Hexyl-χ-butyrolactone, 68<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Ionol, 247<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Ionyl acetate, 247–248<br />
Aire de Loewe, 116, 239<br />
Aladinate (3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate), 264<br />
alcohol NU (5-ethyl-2-nonanol), 128, 212<br />
aldehyde C.13, 5<br />
aldehyde family, 3, 5–6, 26, 59–60, 91–92, 155–157<br />
Aldehyde NU, 128<br />
Aldehyde XI (p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde), 119<br />
Algia, 76<br />
algoid and marine odors, 32<br />
Alkanyl acetate, 76<br />
271
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
alkoxypyrazines, 18, 44<br />
Alliage, 42, 59, 66, 72, 73, 117<br />
allo ocimenol (Muguol), 12<br />
allyl cyclohexyl propionate, 43<br />
allyl heptylate, 43<br />
allyl phenoxyacetate, 43<br />
allyl tiglate, 24<br />
Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline), 32<br />
alpha-cedrene epoxide (Andrane), 6, 27<br />
alpha-hexyl-gamma-butyrolactone, 41<br />
alpha-ionone, 16<br />
alpha-methylene citronellal (Bergamal), 24<br />
alpha-pinyl-isobutyraldehyde, 42<br />
alpha-sinensal, 11<br />
alpha-vetyvone, 30<br />
altol, 105<br />
alyl amyl glycolate, 126<br />
Amarige, 128<br />
Amazone, 17, 105, 128<br />
Amber core (o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2), 96<br />
amber ketal, 158, 159, 204–205<br />
amber products, 8–9, 27, 32–34<br />
Amber Xtreme, 160<br />
ambergris animal chemicals, 57–59, 102–103<br />
ambergris woody products, 53, 203–210<br />
Ambersage, 50<br />
Amboryl acetate, 54<br />
Ambraketal (14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide), 33<br />
Ambraldehyde, 33<br />
Ambrarome (cistus-labdanum absolute), 9<br />
Ambretone (5-cyclohexadecenone), 102<br />
Ambrettolide (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 9, 10, 15<br />
Ambrettone, Velvione (cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one), 196<br />
Ambrinoloxyde (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline), 102<br />
Ambrocenide (4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-<br />
1,3-dioxole), 158, 174, 205–208<br />
Ambrogene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9<br />
Ambronate, 41<br />
Ambrophore, 9<br />
Ambrox (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8, 32<br />
Ambroxan (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8<br />
Amerinal (dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde), 37<br />
272
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Methylgeranyl nitrile (Citronile), 111<br />
Amor Amor, 213<br />
Amraketal (phantolid ketal + a methyl group), 94<br />
Amritsar, 34<br />
amyl tiglate, 24<br />
Anais-Anais, 128, 159, 202, 204<br />
Anapear (methyl octa-4,7-dienoate), 249–250<br />
Anatolil, 39, 67–68<br />
Andrane (alpha-cedrene epoxide), 6, 27<br />
Angel, 106, 128, 215<br />
Fiorucci Angel, 252<br />
Angel Innocent, 197, 215, 252<br />
Angel Schlesser, 195<br />
angelic acid, 35<br />
<strong>α</strong>-n-Hexyl cyclopentanone, 68<br />
animal coiraceous, 211–212<br />
animal florals, 41–42, 104–105, 122, 212–213<br />
animal products, 3, 8–9, 32, 100<br />
animal-fecal-costus chemicals, 59<br />
Anise ether (p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether), 64<br />
anise family, 35, 65, 113, 227–228<br />
Anisimal, 35<br />
a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one, mainly [Neobutenone alpha],<br />
255–257<br />
Applelide (<strong>α</strong>-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate), 248<br />
Aquaman by Rochas, 162, 190, 193<br />
Aramis, 34, 48, 105, 128<br />
Aramis Devin, 42, 59<br />
aranone-4, 52–53<br />
Arden, Elizabeth<br />
Blue Grass, 68<br />
Forever Elizabeth, 195<br />
argawood oils, 87<br />
Ariel Future, 121, 127<br />
Armani for Men, 112<br />
Armani Night for Her, 194<br />
Aromatic Elixir, 65<br />
Aromavert (Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate), 108<br />
aromel givco, 107<br />
Arpége by Lanvin, 2, 38, 212<br />
Arrova 16 (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58<br />
artemisia ketone (2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one), 91<br />
273
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Artemone (1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene), 90, 91<br />
Assam, 190<br />
<strong>α</strong>-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate (Applelide), 248<br />
Aurelione (Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one), 201<br />
Autumn, 71<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Valerolactone, 61<br />
<strong>α</strong>-Vetyvone, 169, 171–173<br />
Azarbre (diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one), 149<br />
Azuril, 221<br />
Azurone [7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one], 251<br />
Azzaro, 27<br />
Azzaro pour homme, 14<br />
B<br />
Baby Doll, 197, 202<br />
Bacdanol, 29<br />
Baldesarini by Hugo Boss, 217<br />
balsamic family, 3, 10–11, 35–37, 106, 213–216<br />
Balsapia, 85<br />
Basala, 182, 183<br />
Base E, 38<br />
Base EJM, 38<br />
Base XVIII E, 167<br />
Basilex (8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo-{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene),<br />
85, 149<br />
β-Coronal (2-Methyl-4[2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclo-hexenyl]-2-butenal), 60, 117<br />
β-Damascenone [4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one],<br />
15, 16, 41, 43, 81, 231–232<br />
β-Damascone [1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one],<br />
15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232<br />
Beaux, Ernest, 81, 235<br />
Belambre [1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}dioxane],<br />
158, 209–210<br />
benzoate, 17<br />
benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone (Coumarone), 219–220<br />
benzyl cyanide, 39<br />
Benzyl dipropylketone (Morellone), 108<br />
Bergamal (alpha-methylene citronellal), 24<br />
Berryflor (Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate), 120–121<br />
beta phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacinthin), 45<br />
beta phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol or Pandanol), 45<br />
Bicyclohexanone P (p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone), 61<br />
274
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Bicyclolactone [2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane], 61<br />
Bielaya Rosa (White Rose), 239<br />
Bigaflor, 72<br />
Bigaradial, 11, 26<br />
blue ester, 150–151<br />
Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, 68<br />
BLV by Bulgari, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193<br />
boccovert, 123<br />
boccoxime, 123<br />
Böcksaüre, 212<br />
Bois d’Ambrete, 28<br />
Bois Doree, 34<br />
Boisambrene (formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal), 27<br />
Boisambrene Forte (formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal), 27<br />
Boisanol (Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol), 94<br />
Boisomiel, 7<br />
Boldo oil, 52<br />
Bornafix [3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol], 164–165<br />
Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2 (sagetone V), 85<br />
boronia florals, 117<br />
Boss, Hugo–Baldesarini by, 217<br />
Bourgenal, 14<br />
Bourgeons de Cassis absolute, 46<br />
Bovolide, 64<br />
B-Oxoionyl isobutyrate, 109<br />
b-phenylethyl alcohol, 233<br />
β-Phenylethyl anthranylate, 239–240<br />
Brahmanol, 29<br />
bromarose (II), 119<br />
Brunke, Ernst Joaquim, 161, 168<br />
bucchu family, 252–255<br />
Bucchu oil, 46<br />
Buccoxime, 73<br />
Bulgari<br />
BLV, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193<br />
Bulgari for Ladies, 99, 190, 239<br />
Bulgari for Men, 101, 114, 127, 228<br />
Bulgari Onmia, 193, 256, 257<br />
Cologne au the Vert, 89, 90<br />
Bulgarian Rose, 36, 81<br />
Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herbane), 127<br />
Butenandt, Adolf, 211<br />
275
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
butyl pentenoate, 24<br />
butylic acid, 89<br />
butyrate, 16<br />
β-Vetyvone, 169<br />
C<br />
C-13 aldehyde, 60<br />
C.8 aldehyde diethyl acetal, 75<br />
C.8 aldehyde dimethyl acetal, 75<br />
Cabochad by Gres, 2<br />
Cabotine, 128<br />
Calandre, 8, 17, 71, 74<br />
calarene epoxide, 27, 28<br />
Caleche by Hermès, 2<br />
Calone, 35, 43, 81<br />
camonile, 89<br />
Campal, 41<br />
Campholen nitrile (Cantryl), 110<br />
Campholenic aldehyde, 45, 76<br />
camphor agresticals, 88<br />
Candalum, 97–98<br />
Canthoxal, 35<br />
Cantryl (Campholen nitrile), 110<br />
Caprinal, 59<br />
caramel family, 34–35, 64, 105–106, 213–216<br />
carbavert (methyl 2-hexenoate), 89<br />
carbinols, 41<br />
Cariofilanol, 54<br />
Cariofilenol, 54<br />
cariofilenyl formate (Caryolan), 27<br />
carnation florals, 13–14, 117<br />
Carnotheme, 14<br />
Carven, Ma griffe by, 2<br />
Caryolan (cariofilenyl formate), 27<br />
caryophylene monoethyl alcohol, 27<br />
Cashmeran [6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone], 42, 44<br />
Cashmeran “O,” 42, 44<br />
Cassione (Helioptropyl acetone), 72<br />
Cassis, 46, 64, 123–124, 252–255<br />
Cassis Thio Formate (3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate), 254<br />
Cassisthiol, 253<br />
castoreum, 103<br />
276
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Castorol, 32<br />
cedar woody chemicals, 53, 92<br />
Cedeillal, 25<br />
Cederleaf, 25<br />
Cedernone (Ceto-cedrene), 54<br />
Cedramber (cedryl methyl ether), 7, 27, 28<br />
cedrol, 92<br />
Cedroxyde (trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide), 7, 27<br />
cedryl methyl ether (Cedramber), 7, 27<br />
Celine Dion, 194<br />
Celine for Women, 194<br />
Centifolyl, 39<br />
Ceto-cedrene (Cedernone), 54<br />
Cetonal [2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal], 247<br />
Cetotabac (2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione), 36, 108–109, 217<br />
cetylia, 81<br />
chamomile/tea agresticals, 51–52, 89, 150–153<br />
Chance, 143, 144, 162, 193<br />
Chanel No 5, 2, 212, 235<br />
Chanel No 19, 33, 68, 128, 159, 204<br />
Charles, Jean, 81<br />
CHHC by Carolina Hererra, 162, 254<br />
Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera, 179, 193<br />
Chinchilol (1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol), 86<br />
Chloe<br />
Innocence by Chloe, 239<br />
Chloe, 27<br />
Chrysantal, 18, 19<br />
Chrysantheme, 90, 121<br />
Cialenga, 14<br />
Ciclanol Acetate (2-cyclohexylethyl acetate), 68<br />
cinnamalva ethyl safranate, 113<br />
cinnamic alcohol, 233<br />
cinnamic aldehyde, 113<br />
cinnamil nitrile, 11<br />
cis 4-hepten-2-ol, 44<br />
cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate (Liffarome), 44<br />
Cis-β-Santalol, 185<br />
cis-dihydro shiseol (Mayol), 117<br />
Cis-8-tetradecenal (Lemonenal Supra), 222–223<br />
cis-4-decenal, 26<br />
cis-4-heptenal, 5<br />
277
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol [Mayol], 14<br />
cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Ozofleur), 157–158<br />
cis-jasmone, 13, 40<br />
cis-jasmone lactone, 13, 39, 40<br />
cis-9-undecenal, 155–157<br />
(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate [Paradisone], 242–245<br />
cis-7-decenal, 157<br />
cis-6-nonenol, 14–15, 43<br />
cis-3-cis-6-nonadienol, 122<br />
cis-3-hexenol, 125<br />
cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate (Hexenyl oxanate), 125<br />
cis-3-hexenyl allyl ether, 73–74<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl angelate, 263<br />
cis-3-hexenyl anthranilate, 39<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl cis-3-hexenoate, 74, 262<br />
Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate (Montaverdi), 260<br />
cis-3-hexenyl γ-butyrolactone (III), 115<br />
cis-3-hexenyl heptincarbonate, 19<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate, 74<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl pentenoate, 74<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether (Vivaldie), 261<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl methyl-2-pentenoate, 264–265<br />
cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, 38<br />
cis-3-Hexenyl tiglate, 74, 262–263<br />
cis-3-octenyl propionate (Pearlate), 264<br />
Cistulate, 53<br />
Cistus labdaniferus, 25<br />
cistus-labdanum absolute (Ambrarome), 9<br />
cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide (Absolute of Jasmine), 40<br />
cis-2-pinanol, 88<br />
cis-Verbenol, 51<br />
citral glycerylacetal, 37<br />
Citraldial, 26<br />
Citralva, 37<br />
citric family, 3, 11, 37, 63–64, 111, 221–224<br />
citric greens, 46–47<br />
citrile acetates, 4, 23<br />
Citrindol, 105<br />
citrodial, 5<br />
Citrofresh, 46<br />
Citroherbil, 37<br />
Citroneland, 88, 89<br />
278
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
citronellal, 24<br />
citronellic acid, 5, 24<br />
citronellic agresticals, 51, 88–89<br />
citronellol, 233<br />
citronellyl, 6<br />
citronellyl ethyl ether (Novorosan), 37<br />
citronellyl nitrile (Agrunitril), 37<br />
citronellyles, 42<br />
Citronile (<strong>α</strong>-Methylgeranyl nitrile), 111<br />
Citronitrile (phenyl methyl penten nitrile), 37<br />
citronnellyl lactate [Rosilial (Rhodia)], 241<br />
Citroxia, 63<br />
citrus florals, 229–230<br />
citrus fruity greens, 126<br />
Civettone (cycloheptadecen-9-one), 9, 10, 15<br />
CK Be, 197<br />
CK One, 115, 128, 183, 198<br />
Claritone (2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one), 149–150<br />
Clarycet (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol), 84–85<br />
Coco Mademoiselle, 144, 161<br />
coiraceous castoreum family, 103–104<br />
coiraceous family, 37, 211–212<br />
Cologne au the Vert, de Bulgari, 89, 90, 128<br />
Cologne by Thierry Mugler, 170, 193<br />
Contradiction, 118<br />
Cool Water, 128<br />
Cool Water for Men, 92<br />
Coranol (4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol), 26, 114, 228–229<br />
Corps Casis (8-mercapto-p-menthenone), 46<br />
Corps 53 (4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate), 30<br />
Corps Maracuya (dibutyl sulfide), 19<br />
Corps popinal (4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal), 118<br />
Corps Racine, 45<br />
Corps Rhubarbe (lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate), 18<br />
Corps Santal, 29<br />
Cortex Aldehyde (phenoxyacetic aldehyde), 17, 18, 44<br />
cortexal, 125<br />
Cosmone, 202–203<br />
Costacide, 211–212<br />
Costaulon (4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone), 59<br />
Costia, 32<br />
Costus Acid N, 59<br />
279
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Coty, L’Origan by, 2<br />
coumarin balsams, 35–36<br />
coumarin family, 219–221<br />
coumarin-tonka family, 61, 109–111<br />
Coumarone (benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone), 219–220<br />
Coumolide, 61, 110<br />
Courreges 2020, 252<br />
Crabtree & Evelyn, 162<br />
Creed, 92<br />
Creed White, 193<br />
Cresol, 41<br />
Cristalle, 128<br />
Crypton (4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone), 66<br />
Cuirencens, 45<br />
cuminic aldehyde, 113<br />
curzerenone, 107<br />
Cyclamber (13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane), 54, 96<br />
cyclamen aldehyde, 14<br />
cyclemone A, 92<br />
Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58<br />
cyclododecyl ethyl ether, 6<br />
cyclododecyl methyl allyl ether, 6<br />
cyclododecyl methyl ether (Palisandin), 6, 27<br />
Cyclododecyl p-terbutyl ether, 53<br />
cyclogalbanate (II), 126, 255<br />
cycloheptadecen-9-one (Civettone), 9, 10, 15<br />
cyclohexadecanone (Isomuscone), 194<br />
Cyclohexadecanone or Musk CHD, 58<br />
cyclohexadecen-8-one (Globanone), 197–198<br />
Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one (Aurelione), 201<br />
cyclohexadecen-7-olide (Ambrettolide or Moschus), 9, 10, 15<br />
cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one (Ambrettone, Velvione), 196<br />
Cyclohexanone diethylacetal (Rhumacetal), 124<br />
Cyclohexene isopropylacetate (Cypronat), 107<br />
Cyclohexyl crotonate, 85<br />
Cyclohexyl salicylate, 66<br />
Cyclomethylene citronellol, 74–75<br />
Cyclomethylene citronellol (3--butanol), 117<br />
cyclomugual nitrile, 92<br />
Cyclonemal (Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal), 127<br />
Cyclopentacide (Cyclopentilideneacetic acid), 106<br />
cyclopentadecanolide (Exaltolide), 9–10, 15<br />
280
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
cyclopentadecanone (Exaltone), 9, 15<br />
cyclopentadecenolide (Habanolide), 101<br />
Cyclopentadecenone (Exaltonene), 101<br />
cyclopentenylacetic acid, 15<br />
Cyclopentilideneacetic acid (Cyclopentacide), 106<br />
Cyclopidene (methylcyclopentenyl acetate), 41<br />
Cyclorosane, 74<br />
Cyperius Scarious, 22<br />
Cypronat (Cyclohexene isopropylacetate), 107<br />
D<br />
damascate, 116<br />
damascenia, 81<br />
Damascenone Cyclogeranate (Ethyl safranate), 152<br />
Damascenones, 15–16, 36, 81<br />
Damascones, 15–16, 36, 81, 231<br />
darjeeling, 108–109<br />
Dartanol, 182<br />
Datilat (1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate), 121<br />
Davidoff<br />
Davidoff, 217<br />
Good Life, 118<br />
Dazzling Gold, 236<br />
DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone) [Neogall], 46–47<br />
Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan (Trisamber), 163<br />
decalinol acetate, 40<br />
Decatone (6-Isopropyl-2-decalone), 30<br />
Decenyl cyclopentanone, 69<br />
Dehydromenthofurolactone, 220–221<br />
Dehydrotonkalide (4-Ethylbuten-4-olide), 110<br />
Delphone (pentylcyclopentenone), 39, 40<br />
Deltanate (Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate), 152–153<br />
Deltia, 18<br />
Desoxide (2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran), 23<br />
Dextro Nor Limbanol [(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-<strong>α</strong>-propyl<br />
cyclohexane propanol], 93, 160–161<br />
dextro polysantol, 174<br />
dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4-enol-1<br />
[Nirvanol], 174–175<br />
dextro-cetalox, 210<br />
Dianthox (Diantheme), 14, 117<br />
dibutyl sulfide (Corps Maracuya), 19<br />
281
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one (Azarbre), 149<br />
dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde (Amerinal), 37<br />
dihydroactinidolide, 57, 103<br />
dihydro-a-ionone, 188–190<br />
Dihydro-<strong>α</strong>-ionyl aldehyde, 57<br />
dihydro-alpha-vetivone, 173<br />
Dihydroambrettolide, 34<br />
Dihydroambrinol, 57<br />
dihydroambrinol (III), 103<br />
dihydrobenzoxepinone (watermelon ketone), 15, 81<br />
dihydro-β-ionone, 89, 99, 190–191<br />
Dihydrocampholene alcohol, 51<br />
Dihydrocarveol acetate, 65<br />
dihydrocuminic aldehyde (Perilla), 11<br />
dihydrocurzerenone, 107<br />
Dihydrocyclol (norbornanol), 88<br />
Dihydroeugenol, 65<br />
Dihydrofarnesal, 238<br />
Dihydrofloralate (methyl-thymyl-ether), 39<br />
Dihydrofloriffone TD (trans-β-damascone), 125, 232, 234<br />
dihydro-γ-ionone, 30<br />
dihydrojasmone, 13, 40<br />
dihydrolinalool oxide, 52<br />
dihydrolivescone, 11<br />
dihydromyrcenol, 12, 25, 38<br />
Dihydronootkatol, 225<br />
dihydronootkatone, 112<br />
dihydroterpenyl, 4<br />
Dimethyl benzylcarbinyl crotonate, 153<br />
dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone (DCHP) [Neogall], 46–47<br />
Dimethyl cyclormol [4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-<br />
2(03)6-dimethyl], 53<br />
dimethyl heptenal (Melonal), 15<br />
dimethyl octandiol (glycol de rose), 39, 116<br />
Dimethyl octenone, 63<br />
Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether [Juniparome], 91<br />
dimethylacetal of trans-2-nonynal, 19<br />
Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol (Trivertanol), 74<br />
dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Triplal), 17, 39<br />
dimethylheptanol (Dimetol), 12<br />
Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde (Nerenal), 65<br />
dimethylhydroxyfuranone (Furaneol), 34, 105<br />
282
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
dimethyloctadienylacetal (Elintaal), 14<br />
dimethyl-octandiol, 39<br />
Dimethyloctenone (2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one), 113<br />
dimetol, 38<br />
Dimetol (dimethylheptanol), 12, 25<br />
Dimuscan [1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)ethanone],<br />
199<br />
Dior<br />
Dior Chris 1947, 194<br />
Dior Dior, 15, 115<br />
Diorella, 15, 115, 128, 244<br />
Diorissimo, 13, 236<br />
Miss Dior, 2, 26<br />
Miss Dior Chérie, 215<br />
Diwan, 190<br />
DKNY, 176, 223<br />
DKNY Be Delicious, 234<br />
DMA-Trans-2-Nonynal, 127<br />
docecadienal, 17<br />
dodecyl nitrile, 75<br />
dogwood, 34<br />
Doisy, Edward, 211<br />
Dolce & Gabanna, 225<br />
Dolce Vita, 92, 99, 182, 183, 190<br />
Dominal (5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 60<br />
Dominguez, Adolfo–Agua Fresca by, 95<br />
Doremox (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran), 119<br />
dorinia, 81<br />
Dossinia Givco, 120, 230<br />
dry leaf herbals, 52–53, 150–153<br />
Duende, 92<br />
Dune for Men, 114, 228<br />
Dupical, 14<br />
Dynamone (cistus-labdanum oils), 9<br />
Dynascone, 126, 255<br />
E<br />
earthy agresticals, 86–87<br />
earthy and fecal odors, 32<br />
Eau Cendree, 14<br />
Eau Fraîche de Leonard, 96<br />
Eau Sauvage, 3, 13, 108, 115, 128, 145, 163, 193, 243<br />
283
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Eaux Fraîches, 15, 23, 26, 31, 47<br />
Ebanol (3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol), 97, 182<br />
Eden, 95<br />
Effetal, 45<br />
(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one [Myrrhone],<br />
191–192<br />
Egoiste, 182<br />
Egoïste Platinum, 127<br />
8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene (Basilex), 85, 149<br />
8-Camphrene carbinol, 28<br />
8-mercapto-p-menthenone (Corps Casis), 46<br />
8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol [Huminol M], 86<br />
8-nonenals, 43<br />
11-Oxahexadecanolide (Musk R-1), 10<br />
Elintaal (dimethyloctadienylacetal or acetaldehyde), 14, 45<br />
Elle by Yves Saint Laurent, 162<br />
Elysium, 182<br />
Emanol, 43<br />
Emporio Armani pour elle, 249<br />
Enrico Coveri, 183<br />
Epi Hedione (Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate),<br />
108, 115<br />
epi methyl jasmonate (IV), 125<br />
Epitone, 28<br />
Escada Collection, 197<br />
Escada Magnetism, 197<br />
Escape for Men, 89, 92, 93, 182<br />
Essenza by Zegna, 175, 176, 190<br />
Estée Lauder, Pleasures by, 252<br />
Estivalia, 48<br />
etaspirene, 124<br />
Eternity for Men, 92<br />
Eternity for Women, 114<br />
ether greens, 45<br />
ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde (Floralozone), 15<br />
Ethyl Chrysanthemate, 25<br />
ethyl cis-4-octenoate, 43<br />
Ethyl citral, 111<br />
Ethyl citral nitrile (Lemonile), 111<br />
Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol (Tonkarol), 61<br />
ethyl decadieonate, 39<br />
ethyl dianthilis, 106, 116<br />
284
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Grisalva), 9, 32<br />
Ethyl ethyl, <strong>α</strong>-cyclogeraniate (Givescone), 121<br />
ethyl fenchol (Terrasol), 28, 86<br />
Ethyl isoamylacetal acetaldehyde, 51<br />
Ethyl laitone DA (4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110<br />
Ethyl lanalool, 114, 228<br />
Ethyl levulinate, 73<br />
ethyl maltol, 35<br />
ethyl pentenoate, 24<br />
Ethyl phenoxyacetate, 120, 242<br />
Ethyl phenyl carbinol acetate, 70–71<br />
ethyl phenylpropionate, 210<br />
Ethyl Saffranate, 38<br />
Ethyl safranate (Damascenone Cyclogeranate), 152<br />
Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate (Berryflor), 120–121<br />
Ethyl 2-methypentenoate (Manzanate), 126–127<br />
Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate (Irotyl), 120<br />
Ethyl 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-6-methylbenzoate, 98, 186<br />
ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate (Fruitaleur), 250<br />
ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate (Myrascone), 151<br />
ethyl vanillin, 60<br />
ethyl vanillin (I), 106<br />
ethyl-<strong>α</strong>-cyclogeraniate (Myrascone), 151<br />
Ethyl-β-cyclogeranate, 151<br />
ethylcyclopentenolone, 35<br />
Ethylene Brassylate, 10<br />
ethylethylcapronate (Yrotil), 30<br />
Ethyl-p-cresol, 69<br />
eucalyptus, 154<br />
Eugenol, 113<br />
Euphoria, 162<br />
Everlasting Flower, 24, 25<br />
Evernyl, 8, 57<br />
Exaltenone, 192<br />
exaltia, 113<br />
Exaltolide (cyclopentadecanolide), 9–10, 15<br />
Exaltone (cyclopentadecanone), 9, 15<br />
Exaltonene (Cyclopentadecenone), 101<br />
F<br />
Fabron, Frances, 258<br />
Façonnable, 92, 190<br />
285
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Fahrenheit, 246<br />
Fambione (p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone), 15<br />
Fantesal, 76<br />
Farenal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17<br />
Farnesene, 108<br />
fecal and earthy odors, 32<br />
Felvinone, 28<br />
Femme by Rochas, 2<br />
Fendi for Men, 183<br />
Fenugreek, 64<br />
Fidji, 128<br />
Fidji by Laroche, 2, 10<br />
[15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-3,1’-[2]cyclohexen]-4-one<br />
(Woolfwood), 96, 169–170<br />
Filbertone G 1% in TEC- 5-Methyl-2-hepten-4-one, 248–249<br />
Fiorucci Angel, 252<br />
Firmaflore, 45<br />
firsantal, 176<br />
Firsantol [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol],<br />
97, 175–176<br />
First Santos, 128<br />
5-cyclohexadecenone (Ambretone), 102<br />
5-ethyl-2-nonanol (alcohol NU), 128, 212<br />
5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl acetate<br />
(Sclarex), 150<br />
5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine (Orange pyridine), 223–224<br />
5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (Dominal), 60<br />
5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal (geraldehyde), 88, 91<br />
5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane [Tobacarol], 94<br />
5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one (Pomarose), 234–235<br />
Fixambrene, 155<br />
Fixateur 404 (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9<br />
Fixomusc, 9<br />
Fleur d’Epice, 38<br />
Fleuranil (3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile), 158<br />
Fleursandol (3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol), 179–181<br />
floral family, 4, 12–14, 38–42, 66–72, 113, 114–122, 228–248<br />
floral fruits, 69–70, 122, 248<br />
floral greens, 17–18, 44, 125–126<br />
floral metallics, 41, 119<br />
floral muguets, 70–71<br />
floral super (4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 88, 91<br />
286
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
floral-animals, 70<br />
Floralate (2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate), 112<br />
Floralozone (ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde), 15<br />
floramat, 116<br />
Flore, 92<br />
Florex [3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one], 35<br />
Florexaltric, 37<br />
Florhydral (p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal), 117–118<br />
Floridile (9,10-undecadien nitrile), 221–222<br />
Florizia, 18<br />
Florymoss, 242<br />
Flower by Kenzo, 193<br />
Folenox (isolongifolene epoxide), 28<br />
Folial, 18<br />
Folrosia, 67<br />
Forenat (Styrallyl crotonate), 108<br />
Forever Elizabeth from Elizabeth Arden, 195<br />
formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene Forte), 27<br />
formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene), 27<br />
formate, 16, 41<br />
formyltricyclodecane (Vertral) (II), 75, 125<br />
Fougére Royal by Houbigant, 2, 3<br />
4-cyclo octenyl acetate, 65<br />
4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol (Coranol), 26, 114, 228–229<br />
4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone (Vetysertone and Vetyval), 30<br />
4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate [Violiff (IFF)], 246–247<br />
4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (floral super), 88, 91<br />
4-Ethylbuten-4-olide (Dehydrotonkalide), 110<br />
4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Ethyl laitone DA), 110<br />
4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone (Costaulon), 59<br />
4-Ethyloctanoic acid (Nolinac), 59, 104<br />
4,5-Decamethylene oxazole (Sclarene), 85<br />
4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one (Sotolone), 214–215<br />
4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-1,3-dioxole<br />
(Ambrocenide), 158, 174, 205–208<br />
4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene (junipal), 91<br />
4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal (Corps popinal), 118<br />
4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane [Reseda Body], 72<br />
4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3(2H)-furanone, 213<br />
4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone (Crypton), 66<br />
4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Methyl laitone), 110<br />
4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol (Undecavertol), 127<br />
287
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol (Prismantol), 162–163<br />
4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate (Frutinat), 43<br />
4-Methyl-phenoxy ethanol, 68<br />
4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate (Corps 53), 30<br />
4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one [Plicatone], 25<br />
4-Methyl-2-dodecen nitrile, 223<br />
4-Oxo-β-ionone, 62<br />
4-Oxo-β-ionyl acetate, 63<br />
4-Pentenophenone (Lavonax), 108<br />
4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-2(03)6-dimethyl [Dimethyl<br />
cyclormol], 53<br />
14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide (Ambraketal), 33<br />
4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone (Orinox), 213<br />
4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one (Precarone),<br />
120, 242<br />
4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one (Iritone), 100<br />
4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one [β-Damascenone],<br />
15, 16, 41, 43, 231–232<br />
4-Vinyl guaiacol, 60<br />
Fragile, 236<br />
Frambinon Cryst, 15, 43<br />
Frambinon methylether (p-methoxyphenyl butanone), 15, 43<br />
frankincense, 107<br />
Frater, Georg, 165, 167<br />
Freedom by Tommy Hilfiger, 193<br />
Frescolat (1-Methyl lactate), 88<br />
Frescyle (3-methyldodecyl nitrile), 64<br />
fresh florals, 114–115, 228–229<br />
Freskomenthe (2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone), 88<br />
Fruitaleur (ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate), 250<br />
fruity florals, 41, 120–121, 248, 249–251<br />
fruity greens, 19, 46, 126–127, 265–267<br />
fruity nutty, 248–249<br />
fruity products, 4, 14–15, 43, 73, 122<br />
Frutinat (4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate), 43<br />
Frutonile (2-Methyl decyl nitrile), 69<br />
furadien-6-one, 108<br />
furan ketones, 108<br />
Furaneol (dimethylhydroxyfuranone), 34, 105<br />
furans, 68, 107<br />
Furfuryl acetone, 66<br />
288
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
G<br />
Galaxolide, 10<br />
Galbania, 47<br />
Galbaniff [1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone)],<br />
257–258<br />
Galbanolene (1,3,5-undecatriene), 18, 75<br />
Galbanum, 255<br />
galbanum family, 255–259<br />
Galbex, 47<br />
Galbia, 18<br />
gamma-hepta, 11<br />
gamma-homocyclogeraniol, 32, 33<br />
gamma-undecapyridine, 45<br />
Gardamide (N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide), 126<br />
γ-Damascone [1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one], 232<br />
Genistafol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45<br />
Genistafol (phenylethyl methyl ether), 68<br />
Gentleman by Givenchy, 32<br />
Georgywood (1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone), 165–167<br />
Geosmin [2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol], 32, 33<br />
geraldehyde (5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal), 88, 91<br />
geranic acid, 5, 24<br />
Geranic oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano), 23<br />
geraniol, 233<br />
Geranodyle [1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane], 240–241<br />
geranyl crotonate, 240<br />
geranyl nitrile, 5<br />
geranyl oxyacetaldehydes, 6<br />
geranyles, 42<br />
Gerlain, Vetiver by, 128<br />
γ-heptalactone, 109<br />
γ-hexalactone(I), 109<br />
Gio, 95, 183<br />
Givenchy<br />
Into the Blue, 194<br />
Gentleman, 32<br />
Givenchy III, 26<br />
Insensé de Givenchy, 96<br />
Organza, 232<br />
So de Givenchy, 194<br />
Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen, 86<br />
Givescone (Ethyl ethyl, <strong>α</strong>-cyclogeraniate), 121<br />
289
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Givmenthe (2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone), 88<br />
Globanone (cyclohexadecen-8-one), 197–198<br />
Globe by Rochas, 99<br />
glycol de rose (dimethyl octandiol), 39, 116<br />
glycolate, 255<br />
Glycolierral (Maceol gylceryl acetal), 74<br />
Gly<strong>com</strong>el [Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl,<br />
methyl ether], 64<br />
Good Life by Davidoff, 118, 236<br />
grapefruit citrics, 63, 112–113, 224–226<br />
grassy greens, 16–17, 44, 125<br />
green florals, 120, 242<br />
Green Mandarine, 37<br />
Greenal (2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal), 88<br />
Greenness of Malaysia, 70<br />
Greenoxane, 45<br />
greens family, 4, 16–19, 44–47, 73–76, 125–128, 260–265<br />
green-violet florals, 245–248<br />
Gres, Cabochad by, 2<br />
Grisalva (ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9, 32<br />
Grisambrene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9<br />
Grisambria (cistus-labdanum oils), 9, 32<br />
guaiacol, 106<br />
Guerlain<br />
Jicky, 2<br />
Mitsouko, 2<br />
H<br />
Habanita by Molinard, 2<br />
Habanolide (Cyclopentadecenolide), 101<br />
Halston, 66<br />
Hanae Mori for Ladies, 106<br />
Hederyl (2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine), 126<br />
Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate<br />
(Epi Hedione), 108, 115<br />
Hedione (methyl-dihydrojasmonate), 13, 15, 39, 43, 233<br />
Helional, 15, 43<br />
Helioptropyl acetone (Cassione), 72<br />
heliotrope-mimosa-cassia florals, 71–72<br />
Helvetolide, 190<br />
Helvetolide [(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3oxapentyl<br />
propionate)], 102, 192–193<br />
290
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Herbac (1-Acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane), 91<br />
Herbacet No. 1 (1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate), 24<br />
herbal florals, 12, 38, 66<br />
herbal fruity, 150–153<br />
herbal greens, 127–128<br />
herbal-honey-woody, 155<br />
herbal-lavendar-camphoraceous agresticals, 50–51<br />
herbal-lavender agresticals, 4, 24, 84–86, 147–149<br />
herbals, dry leaf, 52–53<br />
Herbanate, 85–86<br />
Herbane (Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 127<br />
Herbate, 53<br />
Herbavert (3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 128<br />
Herboxane (Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 50, 127<br />
Hererra, Carolina<br />
CHHC, 162<br />
Heridón, 23<br />
Heritage, 96, 117, 128<br />
Hermès, Caleche by, 2<br />
Herrera, Carolina<br />
Chic for Men, 179<br />
Herrera for Men, 83, 92, 94, 100, 107, 128, 183<br />
hexa hydrocoumarin, 10<br />
Hexadecanolide, 34<br />
Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal (Cyclonemal), 127<br />
Hexenyl oxanate (Cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate), 125<br />
Hexenyl Oxanate (IV), 125<br />
Hexyl crotonate, 74<br />
hexyl salicylate, 38<br />
hexyl tiglate, 262–263<br />
Hexylate, 51<br />
Hibiscolide (12-Oxahexadecanolide), 10<br />
Higher Energy, 195<br />
Hindinol, 183–185<br />
Histidal (2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal), 87<br />
Homo ambrinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122<br />
homo cyclo geraniol, 9<br />
homocyclogeranyl chloride, 32, 33<br />
Homofuronol [2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone], 214<br />
Homomenthenal, 76<br />
honey, 107<br />
Horizon, 92<br />
291
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Houbigant, Fougére Royal by, 2<br />
Huminol M [8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol], 86<br />
Hyacinth Body, 45<br />
Hyacinth Body no 3, 45<br />
Hyacinthia, 18<br />
hydratropic aldehyde, 17<br />
Hydrocitronitrile (3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile), 230<br />
Hydroxyambran (2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol), 94–95, 158, 167–168<br />
hydroxycitronellal, 42<br />
I<br />
igoflor 2-(3-cyclo-2,1,0-decane) spirotetrahydrofuranel, 56<br />
Igolen, George, 221<br />
Incentsia, 45<br />
Indian Wood, 32<br />
Indianol, 174<br />
Indisan, 29<br />
Indonal, 41<br />
Innocence by Chloe, 239<br />
Insensé de Givenchy, 96<br />
Into the Blue by Givenchy, 194, 197<br />
Introspective, 85<br />
ionones, 233<br />
Iranal, 26<br />
Iritone (4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one), 100<br />
Irival, 119–120<br />
Irivone, 186<br />
Irone V, 16<br />
irones, 15, 16, 44<br />
Ironyl Butyl-3,4-dimethyl-3-OH-5-[2,6,6-Trimethyl-2- cyclohexenyl]-4pentenoate),<br />
99–100<br />
Irotyl (Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 120<br />
Iso E Super (octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene), 7, 27, 233<br />
isoaceate, 147<br />
isoamylic acid, 89<br />
Isobornyl methyl ether, 50<br />
Isobutavan (Vanillyl isobutyrate), 106<br />
Isobutyl benzyl carbinol, 74<br />
isobutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44<br />
isobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18<br />
isobutyrate, 16<br />
isobutyrate of Verdyl, 41<br />
292
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Isocyclemone E, 27<br />
Isocyclocitral (trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17<br />
Isocyclogeraniol (Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol), 120<br />
Isodamascone [1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one], 41, 235<br />
isodamasconel, 15<br />
Isofreshal Nitrate, 221<br />
isohexylmethoxypyrazine, 44–45<br />
isojasmone, 116<br />
isojasmone CNC, 116<br />
isolongifolanile acetate, 27<br />
isolongifolanone, 7, 27<br />
isolongifolanyl acetate, 7<br />
isolongifolene epoxide (Folenox), 28<br />
Isomint, 87, 150<br />
Isomuscone (cyclohexadecanone), 194<br />
Isononyl nitrile, 89<br />
Isopentyrate (1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate), 24<br />
Isophorone (3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one), 108<br />
Isophoryl acetate, 62<br />
Isopirene [2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro (4,5)-3,6 decadiene], 39, 64<br />
Isopropyl methyl thiazole, 125<br />
isopropyl safranate, 152<br />
isopropylmethoxypyrazine, 44<br />
Isospirene (2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene), 124<br />
Isotagetone (2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one), 73<br />
Issey Miyaki, 99, 128, 228<br />
J<br />
Jacinthaflor (1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl), 212–213<br />
J’adore, 236<br />
Jascitile (3-Methyl octyl nitrile), 59<br />
Jasmambrette, 28, 31<br />
Jasmin Etoile Civco, 106<br />
jasmine florals, 13, 39–41, 68–69, 115–116, 242–245<br />
Jasminoflor (methyl n-acetyl antranilate), 68<br />
jasmo lactone, 13<br />
Jasmobois, 28<br />
Jasmolactone, 40<br />
jasmonyl, 114<br />
Jasmospezia, 40<br />
Javanol [methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol],<br />
177–179<br />
293
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Jazz, 99<br />
Je reviens by Worth, 2<br />
Jean Louis Scherrer, 128<br />
Jean Marc Sinan, 121<br />
Jessate, 13<br />
Jicky by Guerlain, 2<br />
Joop, 220<br />
Joy by Jean Patou, 68, 105<br />
junipal (4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene), 91<br />
Juniparome [Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether], 91<br />
Juniper berry agresticals, 91<br />
K<br />
Karanal (2,{2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-yl}-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl}), 95<br />
Karotin, 51<br />
Kenzo<br />
Flower, 193<br />
Kenzo for Men, 95<br />
Kenzo le monde est beau, 154, 252<br />
L’Eau par Kenzo, 128<br />
Kerfoline, 75<br />
Ketambria, 34<br />
Kewra absolute, 45<br />
Khusimic Acid, 169<br />
khusimone, 30<br />
Khusinyl (2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile), 225<br />
Klausenone, 196–197<br />
Klein, Calvin–Truth for Men by, 178, 179, 257<br />
Koavone, 57<br />
Kohinool (3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers), 100<br />
Krishnanol, 55–56<br />
Krishnanone, 56, 177–178<br />
L<br />
Labdacore, 103<br />
Labdanax, 35<br />
Labienone (2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one), 121, 248<br />
Labienoxime, 252–253<br />
Labienoxime DA (2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime), 124<br />
Lacoste, 224<br />
lactones, 39, 64, 123<br />
294
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Laevo Bacdanol, 182<br />
laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol [Levosandol], 182<br />
Laevo-cetalox, 210<br />
Laevo-Muscone, 199–201<br />
L’Air Du Temps, 38<br />
Laitone (7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one), 109<br />
Lambert, Michel, 258<br />
Lancôme<br />
Miracle, 143<br />
Ô de Lancôme, 128<br />
Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92, 114, 228<br />
Lanvin<br />
Arpége, 2<br />
Oxygène, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252<br />
Laroche, Fidji by, 2<br />
Lauren, Ralph<br />
Lauren, 66<br />
Polo, 8<br />
Polo Export Extreme, 143<br />
lauric aldehyde, 6<br />
lavandulol, 4, 23<br />
lavandulyl acetate, 4<br />
Lavonax (4-Pentenophenone), 108<br />
leaf acetal, 17<br />
leaf alcohol acetal, 17<br />
leathery scents, 128<br />
L’Eau d’Eden, 114, 128, 228<br />
L’eau d’Issey for Ladies, 190<br />
L’Eau par Kenzo, 128<br />
Leger, Paul, 258<br />
leguminous-citronellic notes<br />
agrestical, 4–5, 24<br />
Lemonenal Supra (Cis-8-tetradecenal), 222–223<br />
Lemonile (Ethyl citral nitrile), 111<br />
Lenor, 99<br />
Lever, Vikä cologne by, 45<br />
Levosandol [laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol], 182<br />
lichenous notes, 8, 98–99, 186<br />
licorous, 124<br />
Liffarome (cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate), 44<br />
Light Blue by Dolce & Gabanna, 198, 257<br />
Lilial, 14, 233<br />
295
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
lily of the valley florals, 14, 117–119, 236–239<br />
limbanol, 93<br />
Limbanol [(trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3hexanol],<br />
158–159<br />
lime citrics, 112<br />
Lime dienes DA, 112<br />
Lime oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane), 23, 112<br />
linalol, 38<br />
linalol oxide, 4<br />
livescone, 11<br />
Lolita Lempicka, 190<br />
L’Origan by Coty, 2<br />
Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, 201<br />
lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18<br />
Lyral, 14<br />
Lyrisal (2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal), 118<br />
Lysorangia, 26<br />
M<br />
Ma griffe by Carven, 2<br />
Macassar by Rochas, 22<br />
Maceal, 26, 42<br />
Maceol gylceryl acetal (Glycolierral), 74<br />
Macis, 190<br />
macrocyclic musks, 44<br />
Madame Rochas, 83<br />
Mademoiselle Coco, 144, 161<br />
Maderan, 54<br />
Maderol, 7<br />
Madranol [3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol], 168–169<br />
Madrox (methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6<br />
Magnolan (2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane), 117<br />
magnolia florals, 117<br />
Mahagonate, 7<br />
Majantol, 118<br />
maltol, 35<br />
maltyl isobutyrate, 35<br />
maltyl propionate, 35<br />
Mandaril (3,12-Tridecadien nitrile), 111–112<br />
mandarin aldehyde, 11, 26<br />
mandarin/tangerine citrics, 111–112<br />
Maniarmani, 143<br />
296
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Manzanate (Ethyl 2-methypentenoate), 126–127<br />
Marabase, 46<br />
Maracuyá, 46<br />
Marbert Men, 93, 97, 183<br />
marine and algoid odors, 32<br />
marine-resinous greens, 45–46<br />
Maritima, 75<br />
Marjalia, 18<br />
Marjoliane, 18<br />
marketing of perfumery, 47–48<br />
Mate Absolute, 22<br />
matyl isobutyrate, 105<br />
Maurin, Maurice, 81<br />
Mayol (cis-dihydro shiseol), 117<br />
Mayol [cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol], 14<br />
MCP acetate [2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl<br />
acetate], 31, 44, 99<br />
Mediterranis, 18<br />
Mefranal (3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal), 118<br />
Megastigmadienone, 218<br />
Melol, 43<br />
melon fruity products, 14–15, 43, 122, 251–252<br />
Melonal (dimethyl heptenal), 15<br />
Melozone (Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde), 126<br />
menthanyl acetates, 4, 23<br />
Meoparf (mixture of 6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5en-1-ol),<br />
236–237<br />
metallic greens, 18, 44–45, 126<br />
metalllic florals, 69<br />
metalllic fruity scents, 255–259<br />
Methoxymelonal (6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal), 122<br />
methyl cedryl ketone (Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur), 6, 27<br />
Methyl chamomile (n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate), 51<br />
methyl cis-4-octenoate, 43<br />
Methyl cyclocitron, 52<br />
methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether (Madrox), 6<br />
Methyl cyclogeraniate (methyl-β-cyclogeraniate), 121, 151<br />
Methyl cyclohexyl ethanol, 61<br />
methyl dioxaspiro undecane (Hersage), 4, 23<br />
methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Ambrox or Ambroxan, Fixateur<br />
404), 8, 32<br />
methyl eugenol, 113<br />
297
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
methyl 5-methylsalycilate (Petunial), 213<br />
methyl geraniate, 39<br />
methyl heptincarbonate, 19<br />
Methyl hexyl acetaldehyde, 51<br />
methyl isohexyl carbinyl acetate, 75<br />
methyl jasmonate, 40–41, 43<br />
Methyl laitone (4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110<br />
methyl n-acetyl antranilate (Jasminoflor), 68<br />
Methyl nicotinate, 61<br />
Methyl Nonylenate, 127<br />
methyl octa-4,7-dienoate (Anapear), 249–250<br />
methyl octincarbonate, 19<br />
Methyl Pamplemousse, 112, 178, 224<br />
methyl pentyrate, 89, 150<br />
methyl phenylpropionate, 210<br />
Methyl Sandeflor, 55<br />
Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate (Seamoss), 98<br />
methyl 3-nonenoate, 265<br />
Methyl tuberate or tuberolide (2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone), 43<br />
methyl 2-hexenoate (carbavert), 89<br />
Methyl 2-methylpentenoate, 51<br />
methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol [Javanol],<br />
177–179<br />
Methyl vetivate, 30, 170–171<br />
methyl-<strong>α</strong>-ionone glycidate, 192<br />
methyl-β-cyclogeraniate (Methyl cyclogeraniate), 121, 151<br />
methyl-cis-4-octonate, 43<br />
methylcyclopentadecanone (Muscone), 9, 15, 105<br />
Methylcyclopentadecenone (Muscenone δ), 101<br />
methylcyclopentenolone, 34<br />
methylcyclopentenyl acetate (Cyclopidene), 41<br />
Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate (Deltanate), 152–153<br />
methyl-dihydrojasmonate (Hedione), 13, 15, 39, 43<br />
methyl-γ-cyclogeranate (Romascone), 151–152<br />
methylionones(I), 99, 233<br />
methylpentenyl isobutyrate, 24<br />
Methylpentenyle salicylate, 118<br />
methyl-pentyl-acetic (MPA) aldehyde, 76<br />
methyl-propyl oxathian, 39<br />
methylthiohexenol, 46<br />
methyl-thymyl-ether (Dihydrofloralate), 39<br />
Mettambrate (3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate), 124<br />
298
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
miel blanche, 107<br />
miel oliffac, 107<br />
Mimoril (2,4-Hexadienol), 42<br />
minty agresticals, 87–88<br />
Miracle by Lancôme, 143, 193<br />
miraldyl acetate, 38<br />
Miss Dior by Dior, 2, 26<br />
Miss Dior Chérie, 215<br />
Mitsouko by Guerlain, 2<br />
Molinard, Habanita by, 2<br />
Montana for ladies, 128<br />
Montaverdi (Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate), 260<br />
Moore, Karl, 211<br />
Morellone (Benzyl dipropylketone), 108<br />
Moschus Lacton (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 10<br />
Moskene, 34<br />
Mossenate (2-ethylbenzoxazole), 216<br />
Mousse Metra, 8<br />
Moxalone (1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropaβ-naphatlene),<br />
196–197<br />
MPA (methyl-pentyl-acetic) aldehyde, 76<br />
Mugetanol (1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol), 118<br />
Mugler, Thierry–Cologne by, 170<br />
Mugovert, 71, 76<br />
Muguesia (3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol), 238–239<br />
Muguet alcohol, 71<br />
Muguet alcohol acetate, 71<br />
muguet florals, 14, 42<br />
Muguetinol (3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol), 237–238<br />
Muguettal, 26<br />
Muguol (allo ocimenol), 12, 38<br />
Mumtaz, 176<br />
Muscacide, 59<br />
Muscalone, 102<br />
Muscambrol, 32<br />
Muscambrol 850, 59<br />
Muscarome, 32<br />
Muscenone δ (Methylcyclopentadecenone), 101<br />
Muscogene, 34<br />
Muscone (methylcyclopentadecanone), 9, 15, 34, 105<br />
Musk Alpha, 34<br />
musk chemicals, 9–10, 32, 34, 100–102, 192–203<br />
299
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Musk D.T.I., 10<br />
Musk ether, 58<br />
Musk Fruitée 10952-3/D, 151–152<br />
Musk R-1 (11-Oxahexadecanolide), 10<br />
Muskalia, 34<br />
Muskia, 34<br />
Muskione, 34<br />
myrac aldehyde, 6<br />
myradyl acetate, 117<br />
Myrascone (ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate or ethyl-<strong>α</strong>cyclogeraniate),<br />
150–151<br />
myrcenile acetates, 4, 23<br />
myrcenol, 12, 38<br />
Myristic Nitrile, 75<br />
myrrh, 107<br />
Myrrhone [(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one],<br />
191–192<br />
Myrtenal, 38<br />
myrtenol, 31<br />
Mysoral [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al], 176–177<br />
Mysoran, 174<br />
Mysore sandalwood, 28<br />
N<br />
n-amylic esters of pentenoic acid, 89<br />
Narcisse ketone (p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate), 104–105<br />
narcissus-hyacinth florals, 72<br />
Navarro, Eugenia, 85<br />
n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate (Methyl chamomile), 51<br />
n-Decyl nitrile, 60<br />
ndianol, 55<br />
Nebulone (3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene),<br />
201–202<br />
nectarol, 107<br />
Nectaryl (2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone), 43, 73<br />
Neobutenone alpha [mainly a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one],<br />
255–257<br />
Neocaspirene (10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene),<br />
123–124<br />
Neogall [DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone)], 46–47<br />
Neomusk, 34<br />
neoproxen, 90<br />
300
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Nerenal (Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde), 65<br />
nerol oxide, 12<br />
neroli florals, 39<br />
Nerone, 39<br />
New West for ladies, 119<br />
New West for Men, 183<br />
Night for Her, Armani, 194<br />
9-decenal, 157<br />
9-epi-Ambrox, 210<br />
9-ethylidone-3-oxatricyclic (6,2,1,022) undecane [Rhubaflor], 56, 172<br />
9,10-undecadien nitrile (Floridile), 221–222<br />
Nirvanol [dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4enol-1],<br />
174–175<br />
Nirvanolide (13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one), 195<br />
Nitrile nonadienyl (Violet nitrile), 72<br />
N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide (Gardamide), 126<br />
N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide, 67, 241–242<br />
noble ketones of vetyver, 30<br />
n-Octyl nitrile, 59<br />
Nolinac (4-Ethyloctanoic acid), 59, 104<br />
Nonadyl (6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol), 127<br />
Nonadyl (III), 127<br />
Nonyl nitrile, 26<br />
Nootkatol, 225<br />
Nootkatone, 11<br />
Nootkatyl acetate, 225–226<br />
nopyl acetates, 4<br />
nor limbanol (2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol), 93, 160–161<br />
norbornanol (Dihydrocyclol), 88<br />
Nordidedhydroambrox, 208<br />
novenal (II) ziblenia, 122<br />
Novolide, 102, 199<br />
Novorosan (citronellyl ethyl ether), 37<br />
n-Tridecanal, 60<br />
Nu by Yves Saint Laurent, 190, 193<br />
Nuits Indiennes, 182<br />
O<br />
Ô de Lancôme, 128<br />
Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92<br />
ocimene-epoxide, 17, 18<br />
ocimenol, 38<br />
301
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde (Melozone)), 126<br />
octahydrocoumarin, 10<br />
octahydroeugenol (Tarragol), 113, 227–228<br />
octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene (Iso E Super), 7<br />
octalactones, 11<br />
Octalinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122, 252<br />
octen-1-ol-3, 4<br />
octen-1-ol-3 acetate, 4<br />
octyles, 42<br />
ocymene epoxyde, 127<br />
ocymenile acetates, 4, 23<br />
okoumal, 93–94<br />
omega hydroxymethyl longifolene, 28<br />
O-methoxy cinnamico aldehyde, 65<br />
Oncidal (trimethylundecadienal), 14, 43<br />
1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropa-βnaphatlene<br />
(Moxalone), 196–197<br />
1-acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane (Herbac), 91<br />
1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene (Artemone), 90<br />
1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol (Chinchilol), 86<br />
1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate (Datilat), 121<br />
1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate (Herbacet No. 1), 24<br />
1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene (Vetylbois), 96<br />
1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione (Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate or Arrova<br />
16), 58<br />
1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol (Mugetanol), 118<br />
1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane [Geranodyle (Givaudan)],<br />
240–241<br />
1-Methoxy indane (Phloralid), 70<br />
1-Methyl lactate (Frescolat), 88<br />
1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde [Precyclemone<br />
B], 69, 92<br />
1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane [Rosamusk], 190<br />
1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-2,4a]-methano<br />
naphthalene} (Ysamber K), 163–164<br />
1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)-ethanone<br />
[Dimuscan], 199<br />
1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one [Tetrascone],<br />
217<br />
1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane [Oxyvet], 58<br />
(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3-oxapentyl propionate)<br />
[Helvetolide], 192–193<br />
302
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime [Rosoxime], 102, 240<br />
1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate (Polywood), 28<br />
1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}-dioxane<br />
[Belambre], 158, 209–210<br />
(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl propionate<br />
[Romandolide], 195–196<br />
1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one (Spirogalbanone), 258–259<br />
1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate (Isopentyrate), 24<br />
1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl (Jacinthaflor), 212–213<br />
1,3,5-undecatriene (Galbanolene), 18, 75<br />
1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl (Oxane), 46<br />
1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone) [Galbaniff],<br />
257–258<br />
1,3-undecadien-5-yne [Violettyne MIP (Firmenich)], 245–246<br />
1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone (Georgywood), 165–167<br />
1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one [Isodamascone],<br />
4, 41, 235<br />
1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [<strong>α</strong>-Damascone], 15, 19, 41,<br />
43, 81, 232–233<br />
1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one [γ-Damascone], 232<br />
1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [β-Damascone],<br />
15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232<br />
Opalal (7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane), 148–149<br />
Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183<br />
oral woody orris and violet florals, 119–120<br />
Orange pyridine (5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine), 223–224<br />
Orangeox, 222<br />
Orcinyl No. 3, 57<br />
Organza by Givenchy, 232<br />
Orinox (4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone), 213<br />
Orivone (p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone), 30<br />
Oscar de la Renta, 10, 65<br />
o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2 (Amber core), 96<br />
o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol (Rootanol), 86<br />
Otkatone (I), 112<br />
Ourtivert, 18, 44, 75<br />
Oxadrane, 96<br />
Oxalide (10-Oxadecanolide), 10<br />
Oxambria, 32<br />
Oxambrol, 32<br />
Oxane (1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl), 46<br />
Oxaspirane, 23<br />
303
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl, methyl ether<br />
[Gly<strong>com</strong>el], 64<br />
Oxo-<strong>α</strong>-ionyl isobutyrate, 218–219<br />
oxo-damascone, 70, 108<br />
oxo-edulan(III), 108<br />
Oxophorone (I) (2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione), 108<br />
Oxophoryl, 62<br />
Oxo-Theaspirane (3-Theaspirone), 62, 109<br />
oxyacetaldehydes, 42<br />
Oxygène by Lanvin, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252<br />
Oxyoctaline formate, 54<br />
Oxyser (vetyverone), 30<br />
Oxysesquine, 53<br />
Oxyvet [1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane], 58<br />
Ozofleur (cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 157–158<br />
ozonic family, 92, 157–158<br />
P – Q<br />
Paco Rabanne, 27, 48<br />
Palisandin (cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6, 27<br />
palmarosa florals, 120<br />
Pamplefleur (IFF), 224<br />
Pamplenol, 56<br />
Pamplenol C (3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers),<br />
113<br />
Pampleune Aqua allegoria, 252<br />
Pamplovert, 224<br />
Pandanol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45<br />
Pandora for Men, 220<br />
p-Anisyl Phenylacetate, 107<br />
Paradisamide, 224–225<br />
Paradisone [(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate], 242–245<br />
Paris, 128<br />
Parker, Sarah Jessica–Lovely by, 201<br />
parmantheme, 19<br />
Parmanyl (Symrise) [3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile], 245<br />
Passifloran (3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate), 266–267<br />
Patchomint (3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol), 88<br />
Patchoulac (Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid), 70<br />
Patchouli epoxide, 7, 27<br />
patchouli woody chemicals, 53<br />
Patchoulol 100%, 161–162<br />
304
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Patchouly, 42, 92<br />
Patinol, 41<br />
Patou, Jean–Joy by, 68<br />
p-Chloroacetophenone, 72<br />
p-Cresol, 41<br />
p-Cresyl crotonate, 105<br />
p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate (Narcisse ketone), 104–105<br />
p-Cresyl isobutyrate, 41<br />
p-Cresyl isovalerate, 104<br />
p-Cresyl isovalerianate, 41<br />
p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone (Tricyclo hexanone P.), 65<br />
p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone (Bicyclohexanone P), 61<br />
peachy fruits, 125<br />
pear fruity aromatics, 249–251<br />
Pearlate (cis-3-octenyl propionate), 264<br />
Peionile (2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile), 119<br />
Pelargonic acid, 5, 51<br />
Pellegrino, Roger, 258<br />
pentambrette(II) [propyl acetate], 99<br />
Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herboxane), 50, 127<br />
pentenoic, n-amylic esters of, 89<br />
pentylcyclopentenone (Delphone), 39, 40<br />
peomosa (2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol), 116<br />
Peranat (2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate), 250<br />
Perfumer’s Workshop, Tea Rose by, 240<br />
perfumery marketing, 47–48<br />
Perilla (dihydrocuminic aldehyde), 11<br />
p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether (Anise ether), 64<br />
p-Ethyl phenoxyacetaldehyde, 76<br />
p-Ethylphenol, 103<br />
p-Ethyl-phenol methyl ether, 69<br />
Petitgrain Paraguay, 23<br />
Petunial (methyl 5-methylsalycilate), 213<br />
Pey, Arturo Jordi, 258<br />
phantolid ketal + a methyl group (Amraketal), 94<br />
Pharaone (2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one), 257<br />
Phenafleur (Phenylethyl cyclohexylether), 72<br />
Phenirane, 67<br />
Phenomuskol (p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone), 70<br />
Phenoxanol (3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol), 67, 116, 239<br />
phenoxyacetic aldehyde (Cortex Aldehyde), 17, 44<br />
Phenyl acetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, 71<br />
305
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid (Patchoulac), 70<br />
Phenyl ethyl-n-butyl ether, 66<br />
phenyl methyl penten nitrile (Citronitrile), 37<br />
phenylacetates, 107<br />
phenylacetic acid, 107<br />
phenylacetic aldehyde, 17, 44<br />
phenylacetic aldehyde ethylene glycol acetal, 72<br />
phenylacetketone, 125<br />
phenylaketone, 18<br />
Phenylethyl cyclohexylether (Phenafleur), 72<br />
Phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacintin), 72<br />
phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol), 68<br />
Phenylethyl 2-methyl butyrate, 67<br />
phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal (Acetal R), 45<br />
phenylethyles, 42<br />
phenylpropionic aldehyde, 19<br />
Phenyral, 74<br />
Phloralid (1-Methoxy indane), 70<br />
Photo, 183<br />
p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone (Fambione), 15<br />
physeol (III), 93<br />
pineapple fruity aromatics, 43, 122, 249–251<br />
Pineone (2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one), 25<br />
pinoacetaldehyde, 42<br />
p-Isopropyl phenylacetaldehyde, 44<br />
p-Isopropyl-hydratropaldehyde, 44<br />
p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal (Florhydral), 117–118<br />
Pivarose, 39<br />
Piver, Tréfle Incarnat by, 2<br />
Pleasures by Estée Lauder, 252<br />
Pleasures Intense, 193<br />
Plicatone [4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one], 25<br />
2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 73<br />
p-menthen-9-al, 13, 39<br />
p-methoxyphenyl butanone (Frambinon methylether), 15, 43<br />
p-Methyl dimethyl benzyl carbinol, 71–72<br />
p-methyl phenyl acetaldehyde, 44<br />
p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde (Aldehyde XI), 119<br />
p-methyoxy-phenylbutanone, 15<br />
Polo by Ralph Lauren, 8, 42, 105, 262<br />
Polo Export Extreme, 143<br />
Polymethylol acetate, 66<br />
306
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Polysantol (3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and<br />
1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol),<br />
97, 174, 182–183<br />
Polywood [1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate], 28<br />
Polywoodis, 28<br />
Pomarose (5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one), 234–235<br />
Pour-Femme by Jean Louis Scherrer, 42<br />
Prachinese, 190<br />
Prassinate, 250–251<br />
Precarone (4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one),<br />
120, 242<br />
Precyclemone B [1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde],<br />
69, 92<br />
prenyl angelate, 153–154<br />
Printanyl/C, 71<br />
Prismantol (4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol), 162–163<br />
Prismylate, 170<br />
Private Collection, 128<br />
Profarnesal, 44<br />
propionate, 16, 41<br />
propyl acetate [pentambrette(II)], 99<br />
propyl dianthilis, 106, 116<br />
Propyl phenylacetate, 107<br />
propylene glycol acetals of vanilla, 60<br />
propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate [Sclareolate], 147–148<br />
Provencalis, 18<br />
Prunella, 152, 212<br />
Pseudo Linalol, 38<br />
p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone (Orivone), 30<br />
p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone (Phenomuskol), 70<br />
P-tertiary butylquinoline, 104<br />
pungent woody products, 6–8, 27–28, 53, 92–96<br />
pyrazines, 255<br />
Pyroprunat (2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate), 121<br />
quinolines, 37<br />
R<br />
Rabanne of Paco Rabanne, 14<br />
racinal, 42<br />
Racinon, 30<br />
radiant family, 4, 15–16, 43–44, 125<br />
307
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Raphael, Replique by, 2<br />
raspberry fruity products, 43, 122<br />
reconstitutions<br />
versus natural oils<br />
1985, 22<br />
Red Jeans, 182<br />
Replique by Raphael, 2<br />
Reseda Body [4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane], 72<br />
Resedafol, 45<br />
Resinodor, 155<br />
resinous balsams, 35, 107–108<br />
resinous greens, 18–19, 45–46, 127<br />
Rhodipol/C, 35<br />
Rholiate, 24<br />
Rhubaflor, 56, 172<br />
Rhubafuran (Soofi), 186<br />
Rhubofix, 7, 27, 169<br />
Rhubofuran, 172<br />
Rhumacetal (Cyclohexanone diethylacetal), 124<br />
Robert, Guy, 81<br />
Rocabar, 85<br />
Rochas<br />
Absolu de Rochas, 195<br />
Aquaman, 162<br />
Femme, 2<br />
Globe, 99<br />
Macassar, 22<br />
Madame Rochas, 83<br />
Roma, 128<br />
Romanal (tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide), 7<br />
Romandolide [(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl<br />
propionate], 195–196<br />
Romascone (methyl-γ-cyclogeranate), 151–152<br />
Romeo Gigli Man Cologne, 110, 220<br />
Root Body, 35<br />
Rootanol (o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol), 86<br />
roots, 4, 127<br />
Rosacinthin (beta phenylethyl ethyl ether), 45<br />
Rosacintin (Phenylethyl ethyl ether), 72<br />
Rosaltone, 39<br />
Rosalva, 41<br />
Rosalyptus (Rhodia) [N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide], 241–242<br />
308
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Rosamusk [1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane], 190<br />
rosaphen, 116<br />
Rose dihydroxide, 67<br />
rose florals, 12–13, 67–68, 116, 239–242<br />
rose furan, 13, 39<br />
rose ketones, 230–235<br />
rose nitrile, 116<br />
rose oxide, 12, 39<br />
Rose oxo-oxide, 67<br />
Roseate, 41<br />
Rosetyl (0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether), 69<br />
Rosilial (Rhodia) [citronnellyl lactate], 241<br />
Rosoxime [(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime], 240<br />
Rosyrane (2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane), 119<br />
Roudnitska, Edmond, 3, 20, 78, 81, 115, 129, 145, 166, 219, 243, 244<br />
Royal Ambré, 48<br />
Ruzicka, Leopold, 211<br />
S<br />
Safari for Ladies, 128<br />
Safari for Men, 97, 183<br />
Saffrania, 38<br />
Safraleine (2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one), 226<br />
Safranal, 38<br />
Safrandione (2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one), 226–227<br />
sagetone V (Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2), 85<br />
Saint-Laurent, Yves<br />
Nu, 190, 193<br />
Opium, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183<br />
salicylate, 17<br />
Salycinalva (2-phenylhexanitrile), 154<br />
Samaram, 85<br />
Samsara, 97, 128, 183<br />
San Dra C, 174, 204<br />
Sandalore, 29<br />
Sandalwood Givco (Givaudan), 178<br />
sandalwood products, 6–8, 28–30, 32, 55–56, 87, 96–98, 173–185<br />
Sandel C, 29<br />
Sandel Mysore Core, 174<br />
Sandel/A [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55<br />
Sandela [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29<br />
Sandelex TNK (3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol), 8, 29<br />
309
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
Sandenol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29<br />
Sandeol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8<br />
Sanjinol, 182<br />
Santal Mysore Core [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55<br />
santalol, 8<br />
Sauvegrain, Philippe, 258<br />
Scalareolide, 158, 208<br />
Scarious, Cyperius, 22<br />
Scentenal (6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde), 76<br />
Scheherazade, 171<br />
Scherrer, Jean Louis<br />
Pour-Femme, 42<br />
Scherrer II, 183<br />
Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate (Aromavert), 108<br />
Sclarene (4,5-Decamethylene oxazole), 85<br />
Sclareolate [propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate], 147–148<br />
Sclarex (5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl<br />
acetate), 150<br />
Seamoss (Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate), 98<br />
secbutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44<br />
Sensi, 193<br />
Serenolide, 203<br />
7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane (Opalal), 148–149<br />
7,11-Epoxymegastigma-5(6)-en-9-one, 218<br />
7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one (Laitone), 109<br />
7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one [Azurone], 251<br />
Shangralide, 58<br />
s-heptyl furan, 68<br />
Shillong, 190<br />
Shiva, 45<br />
Sigaride, 11<br />
Silvial, 229<br />
Silvial (2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal), 230<br />
sinensal, 37<br />
Sinocitril, 37<br />
6-Acetoxydihydrotheaspirane, 154<br />
6-Amylalphapyrone, 36<br />
6-amyl-a-pyrone(II), 109<br />
6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol (Nonadyl), 127<br />
6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5-en-1-ol, mixture of<br />
(Meoparf ), 236–237<br />
6-hydroxydihydrotheaspirane, 89, 186–187<br />
310
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
6-Isopropyl-2-decalone (Decatone), 30<br />
6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde (Scentenal), 76<br />
6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal (Methoxymelonal), 122<br />
6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone [Cashmeran], 42, 44<br />
6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone (Tuberolactone), 43<br />
So de Givenchy, 194<br />
So Pretty, 128<br />
Sonia Rykiel, 190<br />
Soofi (Rhubafuran), 186<br />
Sotolone (4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one), 214–215<br />
Spezia, 38<br />
spice family, 3, 11, 38, 65–66, 113, 226–227<br />
Spirambrene, 95<br />
Spirogalbanone (1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one), 258–259<br />
Stemone, 18<br />
strrax, 154<br />
styrallyl acetate, 75<br />
Styrallyl crotonate (Forenat), 108<br />
sugar pyranone (2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone), 215–216<br />
Sulfocassione, 253–254<br />
sulfox (II), 123<br />
Sumatril (Tricyclodecane carbonitrile), 105<br />
Super Muguet, 229<br />
Sylvestone, 11<br />
Syvertal, 45<br />
T<br />
Tabanone (3-megastigmatrienone), 62, 108<br />
Tabaxol (2-methylbenzoxazole), 216<br />
tachrysate, 25<br />
Tamarine base, 46<br />
Tamigone, 90<br />
Tamisone, 154–155<br />
Tangenil, 37<br />
tangerine citrics, 63–64<br />
tangerinol(III), 126<br />
Tarragol (octahydroeugenol), 113, 227–228<br />
TCD acetate (tricyclodecane methanol acetate), 31<br />
tea, 154<br />
Tea Rose by Perfumer’s Workshop, 240<br />
Ted Lapidus for Men, 93<br />
Tellurol, 70<br />
311
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene (Neocaspirene),<br />
123–124<br />
10-Oxadecanolide (Oxalide), 10<br />
Terrasol (ethyl fenchol), 28, 86<br />
Tetrahydro ethyl safranate (Thesaron), 153<br />
tetrahydrocitral, 5, 24<br />
Tetrahydroedulane, 52<br />
tetrahydroionol, 187–188<br />
tetrahydrolinalol, 38<br />
Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran (Doremox), 119<br />
Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol (Clarycet), 84–85<br />
tetrahydromyrcenol, 12, 38<br />
tetrahydromyrcenyl acetate, 38<br />
Tetrahydronootkatol, 225<br />
tetramethyl hexanal (Vandor B or TMH Aldehyde), 24<br />
tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide (Romanal), 7<br />
Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one (Valanone B), 54<br />
Tetramethylethylcyclohexanone, 90, 155<br />
Tetrascone [1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one], 217<br />
Theaspirane, 52, 154<br />
Thesaron (Tetrahydro ethyl safranate), 153<br />
Thibetolide, 34<br />
Thio Terpineol, 46, 63<br />
Thiocineol, 37, 46, 112<br />
Thiogeraniol, 46<br />
Thiolimonene, 46, 112<br />
thioterpineol(III), 112<br />
thiovert (III), 123<br />
13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one (Nirvanolide), 195<br />
13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane (Cyclamber), 54, 96<br />
3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate (Passifloran), 266–267<br />
3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile [Parmanyl (Symrise)], 245<br />
3-decen-2-one, 72<br />
3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol (Sandela, Santalex<br />
TNK, Sandeol or Sandenol), 8, 29<br />
3-(5-Methyl-2-furyl)-butanal, 246–247<br />
3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile (Fleuranil), 158<br />
3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers (Kohinool), 100<br />
3-Methyl octyl nitrile (Jascitile), 59<br />
3-{4-Methylcyclo-hexen-3-yl}-butanol (Cyclomethylene citronellol), 117<br />
3-megastigmatrienone (Tabanone), 62, 108<br />
3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate (Cassis Thio Formate), 253–254<br />
312
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
3-methyldodecyl nitrile (Frescyle), 64<br />
3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile (Hydrocitronitrile), 230<br />
3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal (Mefranal), 118<br />
3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol (Phenoxanol), 67, 116, 239<br />
3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol (Fleursandol), 179–181<br />
3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol [Madranol], 168–169<br />
3-Methyl-γ-nonalactone, 73<br />
3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol (Muguesia), 238–239<br />
3-Methyl-6-p-tertiary butyl phenol, 58<br />
3-methylthiohexenol, 46<br />
3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol (Ebanol), 97, 182<br />
3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate (Aladinate), 264<br />
3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers (Pamplenol C),<br />
113<br />
3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one [Florex], 35<br />
3-phenyl butyraldehyde (Trifernal), 76<br />
(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-<strong>α</strong>-propyl cyclohexane propanol<br />
[Nor Limbanol and Dextro Nor Limbanol], 93, 160–161<br />
3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate (Mettambrate), 124<br />
3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol (Muguetinol), 237–238<br />
3-Theaspirone (Oxo-Theaspirane), 62, 109<br />
3-Thiohexanol, 265<br />
3-Thiohexyl acetate, 266<br />
3-Thiohexyl butyrate, 267<br />
3-Thiohexyl Caproate, 267<br />
3-Thiohexyl invovalerate, 267<br />
3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and<br />
1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol<br />
(Polysantol), 97, 174, 182–183<br />
3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane [Thymoxane], 52<br />
3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol (Patchomint), 88<br />
3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 36<br />
3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one (Isophorone), 108<br />
3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Herbavert), 128<br />
3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene<br />
(Nebulone), 201–202<br />
3,12-Tridecadien nitrile (Mandaril), 111–112<br />
3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol [Bornafix], 164–165<br />
thuione, 4<br />
thujonic herbals, 53, 90–91, 154–155<br />
Thymoxane [3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane], 52<br />
tiglates, 16, 39<br />
313
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
tiglic acid, 35<br />
Timberol, 7, 15, 27<br />
Timberol Forte, 206<br />
Timberone, 54<br />
TMH Aldehyde (tetramethyl hexanal), 24, 88<br />
Tobacarol [5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane], 94<br />
tobacco chemicals, 32, 36–37, 61–63, 108–109, 216–219<br />
Tocade, 239<br />
Tonalide, 10<br />
Tonkalactone, 110<br />
Tonkarol (Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol), 61<br />
Too Much Champs Elysées, 193<br />
Trans-δ-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-but-2-en-1-one],<br />
125, 232, 234<br />
Trans-decahydro β-naphthol, 55<br />
trans-4-decenal, 26<br />
trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3-hexanol<br />
[Limbanol], 158–159<br />
trans-9-decenal, 5<br />
trans-9-undecenal, 155–157<br />
trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol (violet leaf alcohol), 122<br />
trans-2-decenal, 5, 26<br />
trans-2-dodecenal<br />
aldehydes, 5<br />
citrics, 11<br />
trans-2-heptenal, 5<br />
trans-2-hexenol, 17<br />
trans-2-nonenal, 5, 26<br />
trans-2-tetradecenal, 229–230<br />
trans-2-tridecenal<br />
aldehydes, 5, 26<br />
citrics, 11<br />
trans-2-undecenal, 5<br />
Traseolide, 10<br />
Tréfle Incarnat by Piver, 2<br />
Tressor, 127<br />
Tricyclo hexanone P. (p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone), 65<br />
Tricyclodecane carbonitrile (Sumatril), 105<br />
tricyclodecane methanol acetate (TCD acetate), 31<br />
Tricyclone DIPG, 61<br />
Tricyclone DPG, 110<br />
tridecen-2-nitrile, 37<br />
314
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
Trifernal (3-phenyl butyraldehyde), 76<br />
Trimenal (trimethyldecadienal), 26<br />
Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol (Boisanol), 94<br />
trimethyl cyclohexyl acetate, 4<br />
Trimethyl octenol, 66<br />
trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide (Cedroxyde), 7<br />
Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol (Isocyclogeraniol), 120<br />
trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Isocyclocitral), 17<br />
trimethylcyclohexyl acetate, 23<br />
trimethyldecadienal (Trimenal), 26<br />
trimethylhexanal, 4, 24<br />
trimethylpentylcyclopentanone (Veloutone), 39, 41<br />
trimethylundecadienal (Oncidal), 14, 43<br />
trimethylundecylenic aldehyde (Adoxal or Farenal), 17<br />
Trimofix (acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene), 28<br />
Triplal (dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17, 25, 39<br />
Triplal nitrile (Trivertanyl), 110–111<br />
Trisamber (Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan), 163<br />
Trivertanol (Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol), 74<br />
Trivertanyl (Triplal nitrile), 110–111<br />
tropical greens, 127, 265–267<br />
Truth for Men by Calvin Klein, 178, 179, 257<br />
Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 99, 112<br />
Tuberolactone (6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone), 43<br />
Tuscani, 183<br />
12-Norallisolongifolan-14-one, 208–209<br />
12-Oxahexadecanolide (Hibiscolide), 10<br />
2-Acetoxy-1,8-cineol, 150<br />
2-acetyl furan, 216–217<br />
(-)-(2)-<strong>α</strong>-trans Bergamotol, 56<br />
2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol (Hydroxyambran), 94–95, 158, 167–168<br />
2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone (Givmenthe), 88<br />
2-cyclohexylethyl acetate (Ciclanol Acetate), 68<br />
2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one (Pharaone), 257<br />
2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile (Peionile), 119<br />
2-cyclopentenyl cyclo pentanone, 66<br />
2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate (Pyroprunat), 121<br />
2-dodecadienal, 11, 37<br />
2-Dodecenoic acid, 64<br />
2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol (Ultravanil), 106<br />
2-ethoxy-thiazole, 44<br />
2-ethylbenzoxazole (Mossenate), 216<br />
315
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone [Homofuronol], 214<br />
2.5-dimethyl heptene-5-ol-2, 50<br />
2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one (Dimethyloctenone), 113<br />
2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one (artemisia ketone), 91<br />
2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal (Lyrisal), 118<br />
2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal (Greenal), 88<br />
2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine (Vethymine), 87<br />
2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile (Khusinyl), 225<br />
2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate (Floralate), 112<br />
2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane (Magnolan), 117<br />
2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime (Labienoxime DA), 123–124<br />
2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one (Labienone), 121, 248<br />
2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one (Claritone), 149–150<br />
2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one (Pineone), 25<br />
2,4-Hexadienol (Mimoril), 42<br />
2-hexyl furan, 68<br />
2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline (Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide), 32<br />
2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline (Ambrinoloxyde), 102<br />
2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one (Safrandione), 226–227<br />
2-Methyl decyl nitrile (Frutonile), 69<br />
2-methyl pentenoic acid, 89<br />
2-methyl tetrahydro furan-3-one, 64<br />
2-methylbenzoxazole (Tabaxol), 216<br />
2-methylbutyrate, 16<br />
2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal [Cetonal], 247<br />
2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol [Santal Mysore Core or<br />
Sandel/A ], 55<br />
2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al [Mysoral], 176–177<br />
2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol [Firsantol],<br />
97, 175–176<br />
2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone (Methyl tuberate or tuberolide), 43<br />
2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate (Peranat), 250<br />
2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol (peomosa), 116<br />
2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal (Histidal), 87<br />
2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl acetate [MCP<br />
acetate], 31, 44, 99<br />
2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal (Silvial), 230<br />
2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran (Desoxide), 23<br />
212 by Carolina Herrera, 175<br />
2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane [Bicyclolactone], 61<br />
2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane (Rosyrane), 119<br />
2-phenylhexanitrile (Salycinalva), 154<br />
316
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 43<br />
2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone (Freskomenthe), 88<br />
2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one (Isotagetone), 73<br />
2,6 Dodecadienal, 11<br />
2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol [Geosmin], 32, 33<br />
2,6-Dimethyl-4-heptanone, 147<br />
2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene (Isospirene), 39, 64, 124<br />
2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120<br />
2,6-nonadienol, 14, 19<br />
2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone (sugar pyranone), 215–216<br />
2,3-laevo-Dihydrofarnesol, 237–238<br />
2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one (Safraleine), 226<br />
2-tridecenal, 37<br />
2,2,4 (2,4,4) trimethyl cyclopentanone, 53<br />
2,-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl} (Karanal), 95<br />
2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine (Hederyl), 126<br />
2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol (Octalinol), 122, 252<br />
2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione (Cetotabac), 36, 108–109, 217<br />
2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione (Oxophorone), 108<br />
2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol (nor limbanol), 93, 160–161<br />
2,2,6-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 25<br />
2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane (Lime oxide), 23, 112<br />
2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano (Geranic oxide), 23<br />
U<br />
Ultravanil (2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol), 106<br />
Ultraviolet, 143, 176, 193<br />
Undecavertol (4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol), 127<br />
undecen-2-nitrile(II), 111<br />
Undecylenic nitrile, 60<br />
Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen by Givenchy, 86<br />
V<br />
Vacher, Paul, 81<br />
Valanone B (Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one), 54<br />
Van Cleef & Arpels<br />
Tsar, 99<br />
Van Cleef & Arpels for Men, 106, 128<br />
Zanzibar, 162<br />
Vandor B (tetramethyl hexanal), 24<br />
vanilla family, 35, 60, 106<br />
317
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />
vanillin, 106<br />
Vanillyl isobutyrate (Isobutavan), 106<br />
Veloutone (trimethylpentylcyclopentanone), 39, 41<br />
Veramoss, 8<br />
Verbenone, 45, 50<br />
Verbenyl acetate, 147<br />
<strong>Verdima</strong> (<strong>α</strong>,<strong>α</strong>-<strong>Diethylpyridine</strong>), <strong>261–262</strong><br />
Verlastil, 44<br />
Vernaldehyde, 44<br />
Versus Time for Action, 194<br />
Vert d’ Encens, 45<br />
Vert de Capicine, 45<br />
Vert de Pamplemousse, 46, 112<br />
Vert Violettal, 19<br />
Vertamide, 75<br />
Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur (methyl cedryl ketone), 6–7, 27, 233<br />
Vertral (II) (formyltricyclodecane), 125<br />
Verylane, 50<br />
Vethymine (2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine), 87<br />
Vetiver by Gerlain, 128<br />
vetiver chemicals, 169–173<br />
vetiver oils, 87<br />
Vetocet (vetyverone), 30<br />
Vetycon, 30<br />
Vetykone, 186<br />
Vetylbois (1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene), 96<br />
Vetysertone (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30<br />
Vetyval (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30<br />
vetyver, 30, 92<br />
Vetyverols, 169<br />
vetyverones (Oxyser and Vetrocet), 30<br />
Vigoflor (IFF), 186<br />
Vikä cologne by Lever, 45<br />
violet florals, 14, 72, 119–120, 245–248<br />
violet greens, 19<br />
violet leaf alcohol (trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol), 122<br />
Violet nitrile (Nitrile nonadienyl), 72<br />
Violet nitrile (2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120<br />
Violettyne MIP (Firmenich) (1,3-undecadien-5-yne), 245–246<br />
Violiff (IFF) [4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate], 246<br />
Vivaldie (Cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether), 261<br />
vulcanolide, 102, 198<br />
318
Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />
W<br />
Wardia, 235<br />
Warnecke, Hans Ulrich, 161, 168<br />
watermelon fruity, 122, 251–252<br />
watermelon ketone (dihydrobenzoxepinone), 15, 81<br />
White Cyclamen, 120<br />
White Rose (Bielaya Rosa), 239<br />
Wings for Women, 114<br />
Wolkowisky, Mr., 78<br />
woody family, 3, 6–8, 26–31, 53–57, 92–98, 158–169, 186–192<br />
woody oakmoss chemicals, 57<br />
woody-floral family, 99–100<br />
woody-moist-rooty-earthy chemicals, 56–57<br />
Woolfwood ([15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-<br />
3,1’-[2]-cyclohexen]-4-one), 96, 169–170<br />
Worth, Je reviens by, 2<br />
X – Y<br />
XS<br />
for ladies, 127, 182, 183, 236<br />
for men, 92<br />
Yatagan, 27, 48<br />
Yrotil (ethylethylcapronate), 30<br />
Ysamber K, 158<br />
Ysamber K (1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-<br />
2,4a]-methano naphthalene}), 163–164<br />
Yugoslavian Oakmoss absolute, 57<br />
Yvresse, 23, 128<br />
Z<br />
Zanzibar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 162<br />
Zegna, Essenza by, 175, 176, 190<br />
Zen de Shiseido, 40<br />
0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether (Rosetyl), 69<br />
Zestaroma, 17<br />
zestarome, 125<br />
Zestodial, 17, 125<br />
Ziblenia, 43<br />
Zinarine, 263–264<br />
319