30.10.2012 Views

α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril ... - Alluredbooks.com

α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril ... - Alluredbooks.com

α,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262 Abril ... - Alluredbooks.com

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Index<br />

A<br />

<strong>α</strong>,<strong>α</strong>-<strong>Diethylpyridine</strong> (<strong>Verdima</strong>), <strong>261–262</strong><br />

<strong>Abril</strong>, 183<br />

Absolu de Rochas, 195<br />

Absolute of Jasmine (cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide), 40<br />

Acetal E (acetaldehyde phenyl ethyl-ethyl acetal), 45<br />

Acetal R (phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal), 45<br />

acetaldehyde (Elintaal), 14, 45<br />

acetals, 17<br />

Acetomarane, 23<br />

acetyl guaiacol (II), 106<br />

acetyl thujopsene, 27<br />

acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene (Trimofix), 28<br />

acid, food, lactone and carmelized family, 64<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Damascone thiomethyl ether, 69<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one],<br />

15, 19, 41, 43, 81<br />

Adoxal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17<br />

Agarwood, 87<br />

agrestical family, 3, 4–5, 23–25, 50–52, 84–91, 147–154<br />

Agrumal, 17, 125<br />

Agrumen, 17<br />

Agrunitril (citronellyl nitrile), 37<br />

Agua Brava, 48<br />

Agua Fresca by Adolfo Dominguez, 95<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Hexyl-χ-butyrolactone, 68<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Ionol, 247<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Ionyl acetate, 247–248<br />

Aire de Loewe, 116, 239<br />

Aladinate (3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate), 264<br />

alcohol NU (5-ethyl-2-nonanol), 128, 212<br />

aldehyde C.13, 5<br />

aldehyde family, 3, 5–6, 26, 59–60, 91–92, 155–157<br />

Aldehyde NU, 128<br />

Aldehyde XI (p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde), 119<br />

Algia, 76<br />

algoid and marine odors, 32<br />

Alkanyl acetate, 76<br />

271


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

alkoxypyrazines, 18, 44<br />

Alliage, 42, 59, 66, 72, 73, 117<br />

allo ocimenol (Muguol), 12<br />

allyl cyclohexyl propionate, 43<br />

allyl heptylate, 43<br />

allyl phenoxyacetate, 43<br />

allyl tiglate, 24<br />

Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline), 32<br />

alpha-cedrene epoxide (Andrane), 6, 27<br />

alpha-hexyl-gamma-butyrolactone, 41<br />

alpha-ionone, 16<br />

alpha-methylene citronellal (Bergamal), 24<br />

alpha-pinyl-isobutyraldehyde, 42<br />

alpha-sinensal, 11<br />

alpha-vetyvone, 30<br />

altol, 105<br />

alyl amyl glycolate, 126<br />

Amarige, 128<br />

Amazone, 17, 105, 128<br />

Amber core (o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2), 96<br />

amber ketal, 158, 159, 204–205<br />

amber products, 8–9, 27, 32–34<br />

Amber Xtreme, 160<br />

ambergris animal chemicals, 57–59, 102–103<br />

ambergris woody products, 53, 203–210<br />

Ambersage, 50<br />

Amboryl acetate, 54<br />

Ambraketal (14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide), 33<br />

Ambraldehyde, 33<br />

Ambrarome (cistus-labdanum absolute), 9<br />

Ambretone (5-cyclohexadecenone), 102<br />

Ambrettolide (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 9, 10, 15<br />

Ambrettone, Velvione (cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one), 196<br />

Ambrinoloxyde (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline), 102<br />

Ambrocenide (4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-<br />

1,3-dioxole), 158, 174, 205–208<br />

Ambrogene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9<br />

Ambronate, 41<br />

Ambrophore, 9<br />

Ambrox (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8, 32<br />

Ambroxan (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8<br />

Amerinal (dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde), 37<br />

272


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Methylgeranyl nitrile (Citronile), 111<br />

Amor Amor, 213<br />

Amraketal (phantolid ketal + a methyl group), 94<br />

Amritsar, 34<br />

amyl tiglate, 24<br />

Anais-Anais, 128, 159, 202, 204<br />

Anapear (methyl octa-4,7-dienoate), 249–250<br />

Anatolil, 39, 67–68<br />

Andrane (alpha-cedrene epoxide), 6, 27<br />

Angel, 106, 128, 215<br />

Fiorucci Angel, 252<br />

Angel Innocent, 197, 215, 252<br />

Angel Schlesser, 195<br />

angelic acid, 35<br />

<strong>α</strong>-n-Hexyl cyclopentanone, 68<br />

animal coiraceous, 211–212<br />

animal florals, 41–42, 104–105, 122, 212–213<br />

animal products, 3, 8–9, 32, 100<br />

animal-fecal-costus chemicals, 59<br />

Anise ether (p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether), 64<br />

anise family, 35, 65, 113, 227–228<br />

Anisimal, 35<br />

a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one, mainly [Neobutenone alpha],<br />

255–257<br />

Applelide (<strong>α</strong>-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate), 248<br />

Aquaman by Rochas, 162, 190, 193<br />

Aramis, 34, 48, 105, 128<br />

Aramis Devin, 42, 59<br />

aranone-4, 52–53<br />

Arden, Elizabeth<br />

Blue Grass, 68<br />

Forever Elizabeth, 195<br />

argawood oils, 87<br />

Ariel Future, 121, 127<br />

Armani for Men, 112<br />

Armani Night for Her, 194<br />

Aromatic Elixir, 65<br />

Aromavert (Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate), 108<br />

aromel givco, 107<br />

Arpége by Lanvin, 2, 38, 212<br />

Arrova 16 (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58<br />

artemisia ketone (2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one), 91<br />

273


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Artemone (1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene), 90, 91<br />

Assam, 190<br />

<strong>α</strong>-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate (Applelide), 248<br />

Aurelione (Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one), 201<br />

Autumn, 71<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Valerolactone, 61<br />

<strong>α</strong>-Vetyvone, 169, 171–173<br />

Azarbre (diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one), 149<br />

Azuril, 221<br />

Azurone [7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one], 251<br />

Azzaro, 27<br />

Azzaro pour homme, 14<br />

B<br />

Baby Doll, 197, 202<br />

Bacdanol, 29<br />

Baldesarini by Hugo Boss, 217<br />

balsamic family, 3, 10–11, 35–37, 106, 213–216<br />

Balsapia, 85<br />

Basala, 182, 183<br />

Base E, 38<br />

Base EJM, 38<br />

Base XVIII E, 167<br />

Basilex (8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo-{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene),<br />

85, 149<br />

β-Coronal (2-Methyl-4[2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclo-hexenyl]-2-butenal), 60, 117<br />

β-Damascenone [4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one],<br />

15, 16, 41, 43, 81, 231–232<br />

β-Damascone [1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one],<br />

15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232<br />

Beaux, Ernest, 81, 235<br />

Belambre [1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}dioxane],<br />

158, 209–210<br />

benzoate, 17<br />

benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone (Coumarone), 219–220<br />

benzyl cyanide, 39<br />

Benzyl dipropylketone (Morellone), 108<br />

Bergamal (alpha-methylene citronellal), 24<br />

Berryflor (Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate), 120–121<br />

beta phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacinthin), 45<br />

beta phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol or Pandanol), 45<br />

Bicyclohexanone P (p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone), 61<br />

274


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Bicyclolactone [2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane], 61<br />

Bielaya Rosa (White Rose), 239<br />

Bigaflor, 72<br />

Bigaradial, 11, 26<br />

blue ester, 150–151<br />

Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, 68<br />

BLV by Bulgari, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193<br />

boccovert, 123<br />

boccoxime, 123<br />

Böcksaüre, 212<br />

Bois d’Ambrete, 28<br />

Bois Doree, 34<br />

Boisambrene (formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal), 27<br />

Boisambrene Forte (formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal), 27<br />

Boisanol (Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol), 94<br />

Boisomiel, 7<br />

Boldo oil, 52<br />

Bornafix [3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol], 164–165<br />

Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2 (sagetone V), 85<br />

boronia florals, 117<br />

Boss, Hugo–Baldesarini by, 217<br />

Bourgenal, 14<br />

Bourgeons de Cassis absolute, 46<br />

Bovolide, 64<br />

B-Oxoionyl isobutyrate, 109<br />

b-phenylethyl alcohol, 233<br />

β-Phenylethyl anthranylate, 239–240<br />

Brahmanol, 29<br />

bromarose (II), 119<br />

Brunke, Ernst Joaquim, 161, 168<br />

bucchu family, 252–255<br />

Bucchu oil, 46<br />

Buccoxime, 73<br />

Bulgari<br />

BLV, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193<br />

Bulgari for Ladies, 99, 190, 239<br />

Bulgari for Men, 101, 114, 127, 228<br />

Bulgari Onmia, 193, 256, 257<br />

Cologne au the Vert, 89, 90<br />

Bulgarian Rose, 36, 81<br />

Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herbane), 127<br />

Butenandt, Adolf, 211<br />

275


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

butyl pentenoate, 24<br />

butylic acid, 89<br />

butyrate, 16<br />

β-Vetyvone, 169<br />

C<br />

C-13 aldehyde, 60<br />

C.8 aldehyde diethyl acetal, 75<br />

C.8 aldehyde dimethyl acetal, 75<br />

Cabochad by Gres, 2<br />

Cabotine, 128<br />

Calandre, 8, 17, 71, 74<br />

calarene epoxide, 27, 28<br />

Caleche by Hermès, 2<br />

Calone, 35, 43, 81<br />

camonile, 89<br />

Campal, 41<br />

Campholen nitrile (Cantryl), 110<br />

Campholenic aldehyde, 45, 76<br />

camphor agresticals, 88<br />

Candalum, 97–98<br />

Canthoxal, 35<br />

Cantryl (Campholen nitrile), 110<br />

Caprinal, 59<br />

caramel family, 34–35, 64, 105–106, 213–216<br />

carbavert (methyl 2-hexenoate), 89<br />

carbinols, 41<br />

Cariofilanol, 54<br />

Cariofilenol, 54<br />

cariofilenyl formate (Caryolan), 27<br />

carnation florals, 13–14, 117<br />

Carnotheme, 14<br />

Carven, Ma griffe by, 2<br />

Caryolan (cariofilenyl formate), 27<br />

caryophylene monoethyl alcohol, 27<br />

Cashmeran [6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone], 42, 44<br />

Cashmeran “O,” 42, 44<br />

Cassione (Helioptropyl acetone), 72<br />

Cassis, 46, 64, 123–124, 252–255<br />

Cassis Thio Formate (3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate), 254<br />

Cassisthiol, 253<br />

castoreum, 103<br />

276


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Castorol, 32<br />

cedar woody chemicals, 53, 92<br />

Cedeillal, 25<br />

Cederleaf, 25<br />

Cedernone (Ceto-cedrene), 54<br />

Cedramber (cedryl methyl ether), 7, 27, 28<br />

cedrol, 92<br />

Cedroxyde (trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide), 7, 27<br />

cedryl methyl ether (Cedramber), 7, 27<br />

Celine Dion, 194<br />

Celine for Women, 194<br />

Centifolyl, 39<br />

Ceto-cedrene (Cedernone), 54<br />

Cetonal [2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal], 247<br />

Cetotabac (2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione), 36, 108–109, 217<br />

cetylia, 81<br />

chamomile/tea agresticals, 51–52, 89, 150–153<br />

Chance, 143, 144, 162, 193<br />

Chanel No 5, 2, 212, 235<br />

Chanel No 19, 33, 68, 128, 159, 204<br />

Charles, Jean, 81<br />

CHHC by Carolina Hererra, 162, 254<br />

Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera, 179, 193<br />

Chinchilol (1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol), 86<br />

Chloe<br />

Innocence by Chloe, 239<br />

Chloe, 27<br />

Chrysantal, 18, 19<br />

Chrysantheme, 90, 121<br />

Cialenga, 14<br />

Ciclanol Acetate (2-cyclohexylethyl acetate), 68<br />

cinnamalva ethyl safranate, 113<br />

cinnamic alcohol, 233<br />

cinnamic aldehyde, 113<br />

cinnamil nitrile, 11<br />

cis 4-hepten-2-ol, 44<br />

cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate (Liffarome), 44<br />

Cis-β-Santalol, 185<br />

cis-dihydro shiseol (Mayol), 117<br />

Cis-8-tetradecenal (Lemonenal Supra), 222–223<br />

cis-4-decenal, 26<br />

cis-4-heptenal, 5<br />

277


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol [Mayol], 14<br />

cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Ozofleur), 157–158<br />

cis-jasmone, 13, 40<br />

cis-jasmone lactone, 13, 39, 40<br />

cis-9-undecenal, 155–157<br />

(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate [Paradisone], 242–245<br />

cis-7-decenal, 157<br />

cis-6-nonenol, 14–15, 43<br />

cis-3-cis-6-nonadienol, 122<br />

cis-3-hexenol, 125<br />

cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate (Hexenyl oxanate), 125<br />

cis-3-hexenyl allyl ether, 73–74<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl angelate, 263<br />

cis-3-hexenyl anthranilate, 39<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl cis-3-hexenoate, 74, 262<br />

Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate (Montaverdi), 260<br />

cis-3-hexenyl γ-butyrolactone (III), 115<br />

cis-3-hexenyl heptincarbonate, 19<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate, 74<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl pentenoate, 74<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether (Vivaldie), 261<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl methyl-2-pentenoate, 264–265<br />

cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, 38<br />

cis-3-Hexenyl tiglate, 74, 262–263<br />

cis-3-octenyl propionate (Pearlate), 264<br />

Cistulate, 53<br />

Cistus labdaniferus, 25<br />

cistus-labdanum absolute (Ambrarome), 9<br />

cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide (Absolute of Jasmine), 40<br />

cis-2-pinanol, 88<br />

cis-Verbenol, 51<br />

citral glycerylacetal, 37<br />

Citraldial, 26<br />

Citralva, 37<br />

citric family, 3, 11, 37, 63–64, 111, 221–224<br />

citric greens, 46–47<br />

citrile acetates, 4, 23<br />

Citrindol, 105<br />

citrodial, 5<br />

Citrofresh, 46<br />

Citroherbil, 37<br />

Citroneland, 88, 89<br />

278


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

citronellal, 24<br />

citronellic acid, 5, 24<br />

citronellic agresticals, 51, 88–89<br />

citronellol, 233<br />

citronellyl, 6<br />

citronellyl ethyl ether (Novorosan), 37<br />

citronellyl nitrile (Agrunitril), 37<br />

citronellyles, 42<br />

Citronile (<strong>α</strong>-Methylgeranyl nitrile), 111<br />

Citronitrile (phenyl methyl penten nitrile), 37<br />

citronnellyl lactate [Rosilial (Rhodia)], 241<br />

Citroxia, 63<br />

citrus florals, 229–230<br />

citrus fruity greens, 126<br />

Civettone (cycloheptadecen-9-one), 9, 10, 15<br />

CK Be, 197<br />

CK One, 115, 128, 183, 198<br />

Claritone (2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one), 149–150<br />

Clarycet (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol), 84–85<br />

Coco Mademoiselle, 144, 161<br />

coiraceous castoreum family, 103–104<br />

coiraceous family, 37, 211–212<br />

Cologne au the Vert, de Bulgari, 89, 90, 128<br />

Cologne by Thierry Mugler, 170, 193<br />

Contradiction, 118<br />

Cool Water, 128<br />

Cool Water for Men, 92<br />

Coranol (4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol), 26, 114, 228–229<br />

Corps Casis (8-mercapto-p-menthenone), 46<br />

Corps 53 (4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate), 30<br />

Corps Maracuya (dibutyl sulfide), 19<br />

Corps popinal (4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal), 118<br />

Corps Racine, 45<br />

Corps Rhubarbe (lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate), 18<br />

Corps Santal, 29<br />

Cortex Aldehyde (phenoxyacetic aldehyde), 17, 18, 44<br />

cortexal, 125<br />

Cosmone, 202–203<br />

Costacide, 211–212<br />

Costaulon (4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone), 59<br />

Costia, 32<br />

Costus Acid N, 59<br />

279


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Coty, L’Origan by, 2<br />

coumarin balsams, 35–36<br />

coumarin family, 219–221<br />

coumarin-tonka family, 61, 109–111<br />

Coumarone (benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone), 219–220<br />

Coumolide, 61, 110<br />

Courreges 2020, 252<br />

Crabtree & Evelyn, 162<br />

Creed, 92<br />

Creed White, 193<br />

Cresol, 41<br />

Cristalle, 128<br />

Crypton (4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone), 66<br />

Cuirencens, 45<br />

cuminic aldehyde, 113<br />

curzerenone, 107<br />

Cyclamber (13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane), 54, 96<br />

cyclamen aldehyde, 14<br />

cyclemone A, 92<br />

Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58<br />

cyclododecyl ethyl ether, 6<br />

cyclododecyl methyl allyl ether, 6<br />

cyclododecyl methyl ether (Palisandin), 6, 27<br />

Cyclododecyl p-terbutyl ether, 53<br />

cyclogalbanate (II), 126, 255<br />

cycloheptadecen-9-one (Civettone), 9, 10, 15<br />

cyclohexadecanone (Isomuscone), 194<br />

Cyclohexadecanone or Musk CHD, 58<br />

cyclohexadecen-8-one (Globanone), 197–198<br />

Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one (Aurelione), 201<br />

cyclohexadecen-7-olide (Ambrettolide or Moschus), 9, 10, 15<br />

cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one (Ambrettone, Velvione), 196<br />

Cyclohexanone diethylacetal (Rhumacetal), 124<br />

Cyclohexene isopropylacetate (Cypronat), 107<br />

Cyclohexyl crotonate, 85<br />

Cyclohexyl salicylate, 66<br />

Cyclomethylene citronellol, 74–75<br />

Cyclomethylene citronellol (3--butanol), 117<br />

cyclomugual nitrile, 92<br />

Cyclonemal (Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal), 127<br />

Cyclopentacide (Cyclopentilideneacetic acid), 106<br />

cyclopentadecanolide (Exaltolide), 9–10, 15<br />

280


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

cyclopentadecanone (Exaltone), 9, 15<br />

cyclopentadecenolide (Habanolide), 101<br />

Cyclopentadecenone (Exaltonene), 101<br />

cyclopentenylacetic acid, 15<br />

Cyclopentilideneacetic acid (Cyclopentacide), 106<br />

Cyclopidene (methylcyclopentenyl acetate), 41<br />

Cyclorosane, 74<br />

Cyperius Scarious, 22<br />

Cypronat (Cyclohexene isopropylacetate), 107<br />

D<br />

damascate, 116<br />

damascenia, 81<br />

Damascenone Cyclogeranate (Ethyl safranate), 152<br />

Damascenones, 15–16, 36, 81<br />

Damascones, 15–16, 36, 81, 231<br />

darjeeling, 108–109<br />

Dartanol, 182<br />

Datilat (1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate), 121<br />

Davidoff<br />

Davidoff, 217<br />

Good Life, 118<br />

Dazzling Gold, 236<br />

DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone) [Neogall], 46–47<br />

Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan (Trisamber), 163<br />

decalinol acetate, 40<br />

Decatone (6-Isopropyl-2-decalone), 30<br />

Decenyl cyclopentanone, 69<br />

Dehydromenthofurolactone, 220–221<br />

Dehydrotonkalide (4-Ethylbuten-4-olide), 110<br />

Delphone (pentylcyclopentenone), 39, 40<br />

Deltanate (Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate), 152–153<br />

Deltia, 18<br />

Desoxide (2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran), 23<br />

Dextro Nor Limbanol [(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-<strong>α</strong>-propyl<br />

cyclohexane propanol], 93, 160–161<br />

dextro polysantol, 174<br />

dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4-enol-1<br />

[Nirvanol], 174–175<br />

dextro-cetalox, 210<br />

Dianthox (Diantheme), 14, 117<br />

dibutyl sulfide (Corps Maracuya), 19<br />

281


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one (Azarbre), 149<br />

dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde (Amerinal), 37<br />

dihydroactinidolide, 57, 103<br />

dihydro-a-ionone, 188–190<br />

Dihydro-<strong>α</strong>-ionyl aldehyde, 57<br />

dihydro-alpha-vetivone, 173<br />

Dihydroambrettolide, 34<br />

Dihydroambrinol, 57<br />

dihydroambrinol (III), 103<br />

dihydrobenzoxepinone (watermelon ketone), 15, 81<br />

dihydro-β-ionone, 89, 99, 190–191<br />

Dihydrocampholene alcohol, 51<br />

Dihydrocarveol acetate, 65<br />

dihydrocuminic aldehyde (Perilla), 11<br />

dihydrocurzerenone, 107<br />

Dihydrocyclol (norbornanol), 88<br />

Dihydroeugenol, 65<br />

Dihydrofarnesal, 238<br />

Dihydrofloralate (methyl-thymyl-ether), 39<br />

Dihydrofloriffone TD (trans-β-damascone), 125, 232, 234<br />

dihydro-γ-ionone, 30<br />

dihydrojasmone, 13, 40<br />

dihydrolinalool oxide, 52<br />

dihydrolivescone, 11<br />

dihydromyrcenol, 12, 25, 38<br />

Dihydronootkatol, 225<br />

dihydronootkatone, 112<br />

dihydroterpenyl, 4<br />

Dimethyl benzylcarbinyl crotonate, 153<br />

dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone (DCHP) [Neogall], 46–47<br />

Dimethyl cyclormol [4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-<br />

2(03)6-dimethyl], 53<br />

dimethyl heptenal (Melonal), 15<br />

dimethyl octandiol (glycol de rose), 39, 116<br />

Dimethyl octenone, 63<br />

Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether [Juniparome], 91<br />

dimethylacetal of trans-2-nonynal, 19<br />

Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol (Trivertanol), 74<br />

dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Triplal), 17, 39<br />

dimethylheptanol (Dimetol), 12<br />

Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde (Nerenal), 65<br />

dimethylhydroxyfuranone (Furaneol), 34, 105<br />

282


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

dimethyloctadienylacetal (Elintaal), 14<br />

dimethyl-octandiol, 39<br />

Dimethyloctenone (2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one), 113<br />

dimetol, 38<br />

Dimetol (dimethylheptanol), 12, 25<br />

Dimuscan [1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)ethanone],<br />

199<br />

Dior<br />

Dior Chris 1947, 194<br />

Dior Dior, 15, 115<br />

Diorella, 15, 115, 128, 244<br />

Diorissimo, 13, 236<br />

Miss Dior, 2, 26<br />

Miss Dior Chérie, 215<br />

Diwan, 190<br />

DKNY, 176, 223<br />

DKNY Be Delicious, 234<br />

DMA-Trans-2-Nonynal, 127<br />

docecadienal, 17<br />

dodecyl nitrile, 75<br />

dogwood, 34<br />

Doisy, Edward, 211<br />

Dolce & Gabanna, 225<br />

Dolce Vita, 92, 99, 182, 183, 190<br />

Dominal (5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 60<br />

Dominguez, Adolfo–Agua Fresca by, 95<br />

Doremox (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran), 119<br />

dorinia, 81<br />

Dossinia Givco, 120, 230<br />

dry leaf herbals, 52–53, 150–153<br />

Duende, 92<br />

Dune for Men, 114, 228<br />

Dupical, 14<br />

Dynamone (cistus-labdanum oils), 9<br />

Dynascone, 126, 255<br />

E<br />

earthy agresticals, 86–87<br />

earthy and fecal odors, 32<br />

Eau Cendree, 14<br />

Eau Fraîche de Leonard, 96<br />

Eau Sauvage, 3, 13, 108, 115, 128, 145, 163, 193, 243<br />

283


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Eaux Fraîches, 15, 23, 26, 31, 47<br />

Ebanol (3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol), 97, 182<br />

Eden, 95<br />

Effetal, 45<br />

(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one [Myrrhone],<br />

191–192<br />

Egoiste, 182<br />

Egoïste Platinum, 127<br />

8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene (Basilex), 85, 149<br />

8-Camphrene carbinol, 28<br />

8-mercapto-p-menthenone (Corps Casis), 46<br />

8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol [Huminol M], 86<br />

8-nonenals, 43<br />

11-Oxahexadecanolide (Musk R-1), 10<br />

Elintaal (dimethyloctadienylacetal or acetaldehyde), 14, 45<br />

Elle by Yves Saint Laurent, 162<br />

Elysium, 182<br />

Emanol, 43<br />

Emporio Armani pour elle, 249<br />

Enrico Coveri, 183<br />

Epi Hedione (Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate),<br />

108, 115<br />

epi methyl jasmonate (IV), 125<br />

Epitone, 28<br />

Escada Collection, 197<br />

Escada Magnetism, 197<br />

Escape for Men, 89, 92, 93, 182<br />

Essenza by Zegna, 175, 176, 190<br />

Estée Lauder, Pleasures by, 252<br />

Estivalia, 48<br />

etaspirene, 124<br />

Eternity for Men, 92<br />

Eternity for Women, 114<br />

ether greens, 45<br />

ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde (Floralozone), 15<br />

Ethyl Chrysanthemate, 25<br />

ethyl cis-4-octenoate, 43<br />

Ethyl citral, 111<br />

Ethyl citral nitrile (Lemonile), 111<br />

Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol (Tonkarol), 61<br />

ethyl decadieonate, 39<br />

ethyl dianthilis, 106, 116<br />

284


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Grisalva), 9, 32<br />

Ethyl ethyl, <strong>α</strong>-cyclogeraniate (Givescone), 121<br />

ethyl fenchol (Terrasol), 28, 86<br />

Ethyl isoamylacetal acetaldehyde, 51<br />

Ethyl laitone DA (4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110<br />

Ethyl lanalool, 114, 228<br />

Ethyl levulinate, 73<br />

ethyl maltol, 35<br />

ethyl pentenoate, 24<br />

Ethyl phenoxyacetate, 120, 242<br />

Ethyl phenyl carbinol acetate, 70–71<br />

ethyl phenylpropionate, 210<br />

Ethyl Saffranate, 38<br />

Ethyl safranate (Damascenone Cyclogeranate), 152<br />

Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate (Berryflor), 120–121<br />

Ethyl 2-methypentenoate (Manzanate), 126–127<br />

Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate (Irotyl), 120<br />

Ethyl 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-6-methylbenzoate, 98, 186<br />

ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate (Fruitaleur), 250<br />

ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate (Myrascone), 151<br />

ethyl vanillin, 60<br />

ethyl vanillin (I), 106<br />

ethyl-<strong>α</strong>-cyclogeraniate (Myrascone), 151<br />

Ethyl-β-cyclogeranate, 151<br />

ethylcyclopentenolone, 35<br />

Ethylene Brassylate, 10<br />

ethylethylcapronate (Yrotil), 30<br />

Ethyl-p-cresol, 69<br />

eucalyptus, 154<br />

Eugenol, 113<br />

Euphoria, 162<br />

Everlasting Flower, 24, 25<br />

Evernyl, 8, 57<br />

Exaltenone, 192<br />

exaltia, 113<br />

Exaltolide (cyclopentadecanolide), 9–10, 15<br />

Exaltone (cyclopentadecanone), 9, 15<br />

Exaltonene (Cyclopentadecenone), 101<br />

F<br />

Fabron, Frances, 258<br />

Façonnable, 92, 190<br />

285


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Fahrenheit, 246<br />

Fambione (p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone), 15<br />

Fantesal, 76<br />

Farenal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17<br />

Farnesene, 108<br />

fecal and earthy odors, 32<br />

Felvinone, 28<br />

Femme by Rochas, 2<br />

Fendi for Men, 183<br />

Fenugreek, 64<br />

Fidji, 128<br />

Fidji by Laroche, 2, 10<br />

[15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-3,1’-[2]cyclohexen]-4-one<br />

(Woolfwood), 96, 169–170<br />

Filbertone G 1% in TEC- 5-Methyl-2-hepten-4-one, 248–249<br />

Fiorucci Angel, 252<br />

Firmaflore, 45<br />

firsantal, 176<br />

Firsantol [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol],<br />

97, 175–176<br />

First Santos, 128<br />

5-cyclohexadecenone (Ambretone), 102<br />

5-ethyl-2-nonanol (alcohol NU), 128, 212<br />

5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl acetate<br />

(Sclarex), 150<br />

5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine (Orange pyridine), 223–224<br />

5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (Dominal), 60<br />

5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal (geraldehyde), 88, 91<br />

5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane [Tobacarol], 94<br />

5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one (Pomarose), 234–235<br />

Fixambrene, 155<br />

Fixateur 404 (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9<br />

Fixomusc, 9<br />

Fleur d’Epice, 38<br />

Fleuranil (3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile), 158<br />

Fleursandol (3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol), 179–181<br />

floral family, 4, 12–14, 38–42, 66–72, 113, 114–122, 228–248<br />

floral fruits, 69–70, 122, 248<br />

floral greens, 17–18, 44, 125–126<br />

floral metallics, 41, 119<br />

floral muguets, 70–71<br />

floral super (4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 88, 91<br />

286


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

floral-animals, 70<br />

Floralate (2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate), 112<br />

Floralozone (ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde), 15<br />

floramat, 116<br />

Flore, 92<br />

Florex [3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one], 35<br />

Florexaltric, 37<br />

Florhydral (p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal), 117–118<br />

Floridile (9,10-undecadien nitrile), 221–222<br />

Florizia, 18<br />

Florymoss, 242<br />

Flower by Kenzo, 193<br />

Folenox (isolongifolene epoxide), 28<br />

Folial, 18<br />

Folrosia, 67<br />

Forenat (Styrallyl crotonate), 108<br />

Forever Elizabeth from Elizabeth Arden, 195<br />

formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene Forte), 27<br />

formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene), 27<br />

formate, 16, 41<br />

formyltricyclodecane (Vertral) (II), 75, 125<br />

Fougére Royal by Houbigant, 2, 3<br />

4-cyclo octenyl acetate, 65<br />

4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol (Coranol), 26, 114, 228–229<br />

4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone (Vetysertone and Vetyval), 30<br />

4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate [Violiff (IFF)], 246–247<br />

4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (floral super), 88, 91<br />

4-Ethylbuten-4-olide (Dehydrotonkalide), 110<br />

4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Ethyl laitone DA), 110<br />

4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone (Costaulon), 59<br />

4-Ethyloctanoic acid (Nolinac), 59, 104<br />

4,5-Decamethylene oxazole (Sclarene), 85<br />

4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one (Sotolone), 214–215<br />

4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-1,3-dioxole<br />

(Ambrocenide), 158, 174, 205–208<br />

4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene (junipal), 91<br />

4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal (Corps popinal), 118<br />

4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane [Reseda Body], 72<br />

4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3(2H)-furanone, 213<br />

4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone (Crypton), 66<br />

4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Methyl laitone), 110<br />

4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol (Undecavertol), 127<br />

287


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol (Prismantol), 162–163<br />

4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate (Frutinat), 43<br />

4-Methyl-phenoxy ethanol, 68<br />

4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate (Corps 53), 30<br />

4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one [Plicatone], 25<br />

4-Methyl-2-dodecen nitrile, 223<br />

4-Oxo-β-ionone, 62<br />

4-Oxo-β-ionyl acetate, 63<br />

4-Pentenophenone (Lavonax), 108<br />

4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-2(03)6-dimethyl [Dimethyl<br />

cyclormol], 53<br />

14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide (Ambraketal), 33<br />

4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone (Orinox), 213<br />

4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one (Precarone),<br />

120, 242<br />

4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one (Iritone), 100<br />

4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one [β-Damascenone],<br />

15, 16, 41, 43, 231–232<br />

4-Vinyl guaiacol, 60<br />

Fragile, 236<br />

Frambinon Cryst, 15, 43<br />

Frambinon methylether (p-methoxyphenyl butanone), 15, 43<br />

frankincense, 107<br />

Frater, Georg, 165, 167<br />

Freedom by Tommy Hilfiger, 193<br />

Frescolat (1-Methyl lactate), 88<br />

Frescyle (3-methyldodecyl nitrile), 64<br />

fresh florals, 114–115, 228–229<br />

Freskomenthe (2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone), 88<br />

Fruitaleur (ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate), 250<br />

fruity florals, 41, 120–121, 248, 249–251<br />

fruity greens, 19, 46, 126–127, 265–267<br />

fruity nutty, 248–249<br />

fruity products, 4, 14–15, 43, 73, 122<br />

Frutinat (4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate), 43<br />

Frutonile (2-Methyl decyl nitrile), 69<br />

furadien-6-one, 108<br />

furan ketones, 108<br />

Furaneol (dimethylhydroxyfuranone), 34, 105<br />

furans, 68, 107<br />

Furfuryl acetone, 66<br />

288


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

G<br />

Galaxolide, 10<br />

Galbania, 47<br />

Galbaniff [1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone)],<br />

257–258<br />

Galbanolene (1,3,5-undecatriene), 18, 75<br />

Galbanum, 255<br />

galbanum family, 255–259<br />

Galbex, 47<br />

Galbia, 18<br />

gamma-hepta, 11<br />

gamma-homocyclogeraniol, 32, 33<br />

gamma-undecapyridine, 45<br />

Gardamide (N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide), 126<br />

γ-Damascone [1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one], 232<br />

Genistafol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45<br />

Genistafol (phenylethyl methyl ether), 68<br />

Gentleman by Givenchy, 32<br />

Georgywood (1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone), 165–167<br />

Geosmin [2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol], 32, 33<br />

geraldehyde (5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal), 88, 91<br />

geranic acid, 5, 24<br />

Geranic oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano), 23<br />

geraniol, 233<br />

Geranodyle [1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane], 240–241<br />

geranyl crotonate, 240<br />

geranyl nitrile, 5<br />

geranyl oxyacetaldehydes, 6<br />

geranyles, 42<br />

Gerlain, Vetiver by, 128<br />

γ-heptalactone, 109<br />

γ-hexalactone(I), 109<br />

Gio, 95, 183<br />

Givenchy<br />

Into the Blue, 194<br />

Gentleman, 32<br />

Givenchy III, 26<br />

Insensé de Givenchy, 96<br />

Organza, 232<br />

So de Givenchy, 194<br />

Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen, 86<br />

Givescone (Ethyl ethyl, <strong>α</strong>-cyclogeraniate), 121<br />

289


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Givmenthe (2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone), 88<br />

Globanone (cyclohexadecen-8-one), 197–198<br />

Globe by Rochas, 99<br />

glycol de rose (dimethyl octandiol), 39, 116<br />

glycolate, 255<br />

Glycolierral (Maceol gylceryl acetal), 74<br />

Gly<strong>com</strong>el [Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl,<br />

methyl ether], 64<br />

Good Life by Davidoff, 118, 236<br />

grapefruit citrics, 63, 112–113, 224–226<br />

grassy greens, 16–17, 44, 125<br />

green florals, 120, 242<br />

Green Mandarine, 37<br />

Greenal (2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal), 88<br />

Greenness of Malaysia, 70<br />

Greenoxane, 45<br />

greens family, 4, 16–19, 44–47, 73–76, 125–128, 260–265<br />

green-violet florals, 245–248<br />

Gres, Cabochad by, 2<br />

Grisalva (ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9, 32<br />

Grisambrene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9<br />

Grisambria (cistus-labdanum oils), 9, 32<br />

guaiacol, 106<br />

Guerlain<br />

Jicky, 2<br />

Mitsouko, 2<br />

H<br />

Habanita by Molinard, 2<br />

Habanolide (Cyclopentadecenolide), 101<br />

Halston, 66<br />

Hanae Mori for Ladies, 106<br />

Hederyl (2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine), 126<br />

Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate<br />

(Epi Hedione), 108, 115<br />

Hedione (methyl-dihydrojasmonate), 13, 15, 39, 43, 233<br />

Helional, 15, 43<br />

Helioptropyl acetone (Cassione), 72<br />

heliotrope-mimosa-cassia florals, 71–72<br />

Helvetolide, 190<br />

Helvetolide [(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3oxapentyl<br />

propionate)], 102, 192–193<br />

290


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Herbac (1-Acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane), 91<br />

Herbacet No. 1 (1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate), 24<br />

herbal florals, 12, 38, 66<br />

herbal fruity, 150–153<br />

herbal greens, 127–128<br />

herbal-honey-woody, 155<br />

herbal-lavendar-camphoraceous agresticals, 50–51<br />

herbal-lavender agresticals, 4, 24, 84–86, 147–149<br />

herbals, dry leaf, 52–53<br />

Herbanate, 85–86<br />

Herbane (Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 127<br />

Herbate, 53<br />

Herbavert (3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 128<br />

Herboxane (Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 50, 127<br />

Hererra, Carolina<br />

CHHC, 162<br />

Heridón, 23<br />

Heritage, 96, 117, 128<br />

Hermès, Caleche by, 2<br />

Herrera, Carolina<br />

Chic for Men, 179<br />

Herrera for Men, 83, 92, 94, 100, 107, 128, 183<br />

hexa hydrocoumarin, 10<br />

Hexadecanolide, 34<br />

Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal (Cyclonemal), 127<br />

Hexenyl oxanate (Cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate), 125<br />

Hexenyl Oxanate (IV), 125<br />

Hexyl crotonate, 74<br />

hexyl salicylate, 38<br />

hexyl tiglate, 262–263<br />

Hexylate, 51<br />

Hibiscolide (12-Oxahexadecanolide), 10<br />

Higher Energy, 195<br />

Hindinol, 183–185<br />

Histidal (2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal), 87<br />

Homo ambrinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122<br />

homo cyclo geraniol, 9<br />

homocyclogeranyl chloride, 32, 33<br />

Homofuronol [2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone], 214<br />

Homomenthenal, 76<br />

honey, 107<br />

Horizon, 92<br />

291


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Houbigant, Fougére Royal by, 2<br />

Huminol M [8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol], 86<br />

Hyacinth Body, 45<br />

Hyacinth Body no 3, 45<br />

Hyacinthia, 18<br />

hydratropic aldehyde, 17<br />

Hydrocitronitrile (3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile), 230<br />

Hydroxyambran (2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol), 94–95, 158, 167–168<br />

hydroxycitronellal, 42<br />

I<br />

igoflor 2-(3-cyclo-2,1,0-decane) spirotetrahydrofuranel, 56<br />

Igolen, George, 221<br />

Incentsia, 45<br />

Indian Wood, 32<br />

Indianol, 174<br />

Indisan, 29<br />

Indonal, 41<br />

Innocence by Chloe, 239<br />

Insensé de Givenchy, 96<br />

Into the Blue by Givenchy, 194, 197<br />

Introspective, 85<br />

ionones, 233<br />

Iranal, 26<br />

Iritone (4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one), 100<br />

Irival, 119–120<br />

Irivone, 186<br />

Irone V, 16<br />

irones, 15, 16, 44<br />

Ironyl Butyl-3,4-dimethyl-3-OH-5-[2,6,6-Trimethyl-2- cyclohexenyl]-4pentenoate),<br />

99–100<br />

Irotyl (Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 120<br />

Iso E Super (octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene), 7, 27, 233<br />

isoaceate, 147<br />

isoamylic acid, 89<br />

Isobornyl methyl ether, 50<br />

Isobutavan (Vanillyl isobutyrate), 106<br />

Isobutyl benzyl carbinol, 74<br />

isobutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44<br />

isobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18<br />

isobutyrate, 16<br />

isobutyrate of Verdyl, 41<br />

292


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Isocyclemone E, 27<br />

Isocyclocitral (trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17<br />

Isocyclogeraniol (Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol), 120<br />

Isodamascone [1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one], 41, 235<br />

isodamasconel, 15<br />

Isofreshal Nitrate, 221<br />

isohexylmethoxypyrazine, 44–45<br />

isojasmone, 116<br />

isojasmone CNC, 116<br />

isolongifolanile acetate, 27<br />

isolongifolanone, 7, 27<br />

isolongifolanyl acetate, 7<br />

isolongifolene epoxide (Folenox), 28<br />

Isomint, 87, 150<br />

Isomuscone (cyclohexadecanone), 194<br />

Isononyl nitrile, 89<br />

Isopentyrate (1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate), 24<br />

Isophorone (3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one), 108<br />

Isophoryl acetate, 62<br />

Isopirene [2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro (4,5)-3,6 decadiene], 39, 64<br />

Isopropyl methyl thiazole, 125<br />

isopropyl safranate, 152<br />

isopropylmethoxypyrazine, 44<br />

Isospirene (2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene), 124<br />

Isotagetone (2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one), 73<br />

Issey Miyaki, 99, 128, 228<br />

J<br />

Jacinthaflor (1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl), 212–213<br />

J’adore, 236<br />

Jascitile (3-Methyl octyl nitrile), 59<br />

Jasmambrette, 28, 31<br />

Jasmin Etoile Civco, 106<br />

jasmine florals, 13, 39–41, 68–69, 115–116, 242–245<br />

Jasminoflor (methyl n-acetyl antranilate), 68<br />

jasmo lactone, 13<br />

Jasmobois, 28<br />

Jasmolactone, 40<br />

jasmonyl, 114<br />

Jasmospezia, 40<br />

Javanol [methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol],<br />

177–179<br />

293


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Jazz, 99<br />

Je reviens by Worth, 2<br />

Jean Louis Scherrer, 128<br />

Jean Marc Sinan, 121<br />

Jessate, 13<br />

Jicky by Guerlain, 2<br />

Joop, 220<br />

Joy by Jean Patou, 68, 105<br />

junipal (4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene), 91<br />

Juniparome [Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether], 91<br />

Juniper berry agresticals, 91<br />

K<br />

Karanal (2,{2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-yl}-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl}), 95<br />

Karotin, 51<br />

Kenzo<br />

Flower, 193<br />

Kenzo for Men, 95<br />

Kenzo le monde est beau, 154, 252<br />

L’Eau par Kenzo, 128<br />

Kerfoline, 75<br />

Ketambria, 34<br />

Kewra absolute, 45<br />

Khusimic Acid, 169<br />

khusimone, 30<br />

Khusinyl (2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile), 225<br />

Klausenone, 196–197<br />

Klein, Calvin–Truth for Men by, 178, 179, 257<br />

Koavone, 57<br />

Kohinool (3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers), 100<br />

Krishnanol, 55–56<br />

Krishnanone, 56, 177–178<br />

L<br />

Labdacore, 103<br />

Labdanax, 35<br />

Labienone (2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one), 121, 248<br />

Labienoxime, 252–253<br />

Labienoxime DA (2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime), 124<br />

Lacoste, 224<br />

lactones, 39, 64, 123<br />

294


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Laevo Bacdanol, 182<br />

laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol [Levosandol], 182<br />

Laevo-cetalox, 210<br />

Laevo-Muscone, 199–201<br />

L’Air Du Temps, 38<br />

Laitone (7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one), 109<br />

Lambert, Michel, 258<br />

Lancôme<br />

Miracle, 143<br />

Ô de Lancôme, 128<br />

Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92, 114, 228<br />

Lanvin<br />

Arpége, 2<br />

Oxygène, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252<br />

Laroche, Fidji by, 2<br />

Lauren, Ralph<br />

Lauren, 66<br />

Polo, 8<br />

Polo Export Extreme, 143<br />

lauric aldehyde, 6<br />

lavandulol, 4, 23<br />

lavandulyl acetate, 4<br />

Lavonax (4-Pentenophenone), 108<br />

leaf acetal, 17<br />

leaf alcohol acetal, 17<br />

leathery scents, 128<br />

L’Eau d’Eden, 114, 128, 228<br />

L’eau d’Issey for Ladies, 190<br />

L’Eau par Kenzo, 128<br />

Leger, Paul, 258<br />

leguminous-citronellic notes<br />

agrestical, 4–5, 24<br />

Lemonenal Supra (Cis-8-tetradecenal), 222–223<br />

Lemonile (Ethyl citral nitrile), 111<br />

Lenor, 99<br />

Lever, Vikä cologne by, 45<br />

Levosandol [laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol], 182<br />

lichenous notes, 8, 98–99, 186<br />

licorous, 124<br />

Liffarome (cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate), 44<br />

Light Blue by Dolce & Gabanna, 198, 257<br />

Lilial, 14, 233<br />

295


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

lily of the valley florals, 14, 117–119, 236–239<br />

limbanol, 93<br />

Limbanol [(trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3hexanol],<br />

158–159<br />

lime citrics, 112<br />

Lime dienes DA, 112<br />

Lime oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane), 23, 112<br />

linalol, 38<br />

linalol oxide, 4<br />

livescone, 11<br />

Lolita Lempicka, 190<br />

L’Origan by Coty, 2<br />

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, 201<br />

lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18<br />

Lyral, 14<br />

Lyrisal (2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal), 118<br />

Lysorangia, 26<br />

M<br />

Ma griffe by Carven, 2<br />

Macassar by Rochas, 22<br />

Maceal, 26, 42<br />

Maceol gylceryl acetal (Glycolierral), 74<br />

Macis, 190<br />

macrocyclic musks, 44<br />

Madame Rochas, 83<br />

Mademoiselle Coco, 144, 161<br />

Maderan, 54<br />

Maderol, 7<br />

Madranol [3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol], 168–169<br />

Madrox (methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6<br />

Magnolan (2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane), 117<br />

magnolia florals, 117<br />

Mahagonate, 7<br />

Majantol, 118<br />

maltol, 35<br />

maltyl isobutyrate, 35<br />

maltyl propionate, 35<br />

Mandaril (3,12-Tridecadien nitrile), 111–112<br />

mandarin aldehyde, 11, 26<br />

mandarin/tangerine citrics, 111–112<br />

Maniarmani, 143<br />

296


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Manzanate (Ethyl 2-methypentenoate), 126–127<br />

Marabase, 46<br />

Maracuyá, 46<br />

Marbert Men, 93, 97, 183<br />

marine and algoid odors, 32<br />

marine-resinous greens, 45–46<br />

Maritima, 75<br />

Marjalia, 18<br />

Marjoliane, 18<br />

marketing of perfumery, 47–48<br />

Mate Absolute, 22<br />

matyl isobutyrate, 105<br />

Maurin, Maurice, 81<br />

Mayol (cis-dihydro shiseol), 117<br />

Mayol [cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol], 14<br />

MCP acetate [2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl<br />

acetate], 31, 44, 99<br />

Mediterranis, 18<br />

Mefranal (3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal), 118<br />

Megastigmadienone, 218<br />

Melol, 43<br />

melon fruity products, 14–15, 43, 122, 251–252<br />

Melonal (dimethyl heptenal), 15<br />

Melozone (Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde), 126<br />

menthanyl acetates, 4, 23<br />

Meoparf (mixture of 6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5en-1-ol),<br />

236–237<br />

metallic greens, 18, 44–45, 126<br />

metalllic florals, 69<br />

metalllic fruity scents, 255–259<br />

Methoxymelonal (6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal), 122<br />

methyl cedryl ketone (Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur), 6, 27<br />

Methyl chamomile (n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate), 51<br />

methyl cis-4-octenoate, 43<br />

Methyl cyclocitron, 52<br />

methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether (Madrox), 6<br />

Methyl cyclogeraniate (methyl-β-cyclogeraniate), 121, 151<br />

Methyl cyclohexyl ethanol, 61<br />

methyl dioxaspiro undecane (Hersage), 4, 23<br />

methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Ambrox or Ambroxan, Fixateur<br />

404), 8, 32<br />

methyl eugenol, 113<br />

297


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

methyl 5-methylsalycilate (Petunial), 213<br />

methyl geraniate, 39<br />

methyl heptincarbonate, 19<br />

Methyl hexyl acetaldehyde, 51<br />

methyl isohexyl carbinyl acetate, 75<br />

methyl jasmonate, 40–41, 43<br />

Methyl laitone (4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110<br />

methyl n-acetyl antranilate (Jasminoflor), 68<br />

Methyl nicotinate, 61<br />

Methyl Nonylenate, 127<br />

methyl octa-4,7-dienoate (Anapear), 249–250<br />

methyl octincarbonate, 19<br />

Methyl Pamplemousse, 112, 178, 224<br />

methyl pentyrate, 89, 150<br />

methyl phenylpropionate, 210<br />

Methyl Sandeflor, 55<br />

Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate (Seamoss), 98<br />

methyl 3-nonenoate, 265<br />

Methyl tuberate or tuberolide (2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone), 43<br />

methyl 2-hexenoate (carbavert), 89<br />

Methyl 2-methylpentenoate, 51<br />

methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol [Javanol],<br />

177–179<br />

Methyl vetivate, 30, 170–171<br />

methyl-<strong>α</strong>-ionone glycidate, 192<br />

methyl-β-cyclogeraniate (Methyl cyclogeraniate), 121, 151<br />

methyl-cis-4-octonate, 43<br />

methylcyclopentadecanone (Muscone), 9, 15, 105<br />

Methylcyclopentadecenone (Muscenone δ), 101<br />

methylcyclopentenolone, 34<br />

methylcyclopentenyl acetate (Cyclopidene), 41<br />

Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate (Deltanate), 152–153<br />

methyl-dihydrojasmonate (Hedione), 13, 15, 39, 43<br />

methyl-γ-cyclogeranate (Romascone), 151–152<br />

methylionones(I), 99, 233<br />

methylpentenyl isobutyrate, 24<br />

Methylpentenyle salicylate, 118<br />

methyl-pentyl-acetic (MPA) aldehyde, 76<br />

methyl-propyl oxathian, 39<br />

methylthiohexenol, 46<br />

methyl-thymyl-ether (Dihydrofloralate), 39<br />

Mettambrate (3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate), 124<br />

298


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

miel blanche, 107<br />

miel oliffac, 107<br />

Mimoril (2,4-Hexadienol), 42<br />

minty agresticals, 87–88<br />

Miracle by Lancôme, 143, 193<br />

miraldyl acetate, 38<br />

Miss Dior by Dior, 2, 26<br />

Miss Dior Chérie, 215<br />

Mitsouko by Guerlain, 2<br />

Molinard, Habanita by, 2<br />

Montana for ladies, 128<br />

Montaverdi (Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate), 260<br />

Moore, Karl, 211<br />

Morellone (Benzyl dipropylketone), 108<br />

Moschus Lacton (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 10<br />

Moskene, 34<br />

Mossenate (2-ethylbenzoxazole), 216<br />

Mousse Metra, 8<br />

Moxalone (1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropaβ-naphatlene),<br />

196–197<br />

MPA (methyl-pentyl-acetic) aldehyde, 76<br />

Mugetanol (1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol), 118<br />

Mugler, Thierry–Cologne by, 170<br />

Mugovert, 71, 76<br />

Muguesia (3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol), 238–239<br />

Muguet alcohol, 71<br />

Muguet alcohol acetate, 71<br />

muguet florals, 14, 42<br />

Muguetinol (3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol), 237–238<br />

Muguettal, 26<br />

Muguol (allo ocimenol), 12, 38<br />

Mumtaz, 176<br />

Muscacide, 59<br />

Muscalone, 102<br />

Muscambrol, 32<br />

Muscambrol 850, 59<br />

Muscarome, 32<br />

Muscenone δ (Methylcyclopentadecenone), 101<br />

Muscogene, 34<br />

Muscone (methylcyclopentadecanone), 9, 15, 34, 105<br />

Musk Alpha, 34<br />

musk chemicals, 9–10, 32, 34, 100–102, 192–203<br />

299


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Musk D.T.I., 10<br />

Musk ether, 58<br />

Musk Fruitée 10952-3/D, 151–152<br />

Musk R-1 (11-Oxahexadecanolide), 10<br />

Muskalia, 34<br />

Muskia, 34<br />

Muskione, 34<br />

myrac aldehyde, 6<br />

myradyl acetate, 117<br />

Myrascone (ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate or ethyl-<strong>α</strong>cyclogeraniate),<br />

150–151<br />

myrcenile acetates, 4, 23<br />

myrcenol, 12, 38<br />

Myristic Nitrile, 75<br />

myrrh, 107<br />

Myrrhone [(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one],<br />

191–192<br />

Myrtenal, 38<br />

myrtenol, 31<br />

Mysoral [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al], 176–177<br />

Mysoran, 174<br />

Mysore sandalwood, 28<br />

N<br />

n-amylic esters of pentenoic acid, 89<br />

Narcisse ketone (p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate), 104–105<br />

narcissus-hyacinth florals, 72<br />

Navarro, Eugenia, 85<br />

n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate (Methyl chamomile), 51<br />

n-Decyl nitrile, 60<br />

ndianol, 55<br />

Nebulone (3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene),<br />

201–202<br />

nectarol, 107<br />

Nectaryl (2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone), 43, 73<br />

Neobutenone alpha [mainly a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one],<br />

255–257<br />

Neocaspirene (10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene),<br />

123–124<br />

Neogall [DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone)], 46–47<br />

Neomusk, 34<br />

neoproxen, 90<br />

300


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Nerenal (Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde), 65<br />

nerol oxide, 12<br />

neroli florals, 39<br />

Nerone, 39<br />

New West for ladies, 119<br />

New West for Men, 183<br />

Night for Her, Armani, 194<br />

9-decenal, 157<br />

9-epi-Ambrox, 210<br />

9-ethylidone-3-oxatricyclic (6,2,1,022) undecane [Rhubaflor], 56, 172<br />

9,10-undecadien nitrile (Floridile), 221–222<br />

Nirvanol [dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4enol-1],<br />

174–175<br />

Nirvanolide (13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one), 195<br />

Nitrile nonadienyl (Violet nitrile), 72<br />

N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide (Gardamide), 126<br />

N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide, 67, 241–242<br />

noble ketones of vetyver, 30<br />

n-Octyl nitrile, 59<br />

Nolinac (4-Ethyloctanoic acid), 59, 104<br />

Nonadyl (6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol), 127<br />

Nonadyl (III), 127<br />

Nonyl nitrile, 26<br />

Nootkatol, 225<br />

Nootkatone, 11<br />

Nootkatyl acetate, 225–226<br />

nopyl acetates, 4<br />

nor limbanol (2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol), 93, 160–161<br />

norbornanol (Dihydrocyclol), 88<br />

Nordidedhydroambrox, 208<br />

novenal (II) ziblenia, 122<br />

Novolide, 102, 199<br />

Novorosan (citronellyl ethyl ether), 37<br />

n-Tridecanal, 60<br />

Nu by Yves Saint Laurent, 190, 193<br />

Nuits Indiennes, 182<br />

O<br />

Ô de Lancôme, 128<br />

Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92<br />

ocimene-epoxide, 17, 18<br />

ocimenol, 38<br />

301


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde (Melozone)), 126<br />

octahydrocoumarin, 10<br />

octahydroeugenol (Tarragol), 113, 227–228<br />

octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene (Iso E Super), 7<br />

octalactones, 11<br />

Octalinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122, 252<br />

octen-1-ol-3, 4<br />

octen-1-ol-3 acetate, 4<br />

octyles, 42<br />

ocymene epoxyde, 127<br />

ocymenile acetates, 4, 23<br />

okoumal, 93–94<br />

omega hydroxymethyl longifolene, 28<br />

O-methoxy cinnamico aldehyde, 65<br />

Oncidal (trimethylundecadienal), 14, 43<br />

1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropa-βnaphatlene<br />

(Moxalone), 196–197<br />

1-acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane (Herbac), 91<br />

1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene (Artemone), 90<br />

1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol (Chinchilol), 86<br />

1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate (Datilat), 121<br />

1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate (Herbacet No. 1), 24<br />

1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene (Vetylbois), 96<br />

1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione (Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate or Arrova<br />

16), 58<br />

1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol (Mugetanol), 118<br />

1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane [Geranodyle (Givaudan)],<br />

240–241<br />

1-Methoxy indane (Phloralid), 70<br />

1-Methyl lactate (Frescolat), 88<br />

1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde [Precyclemone<br />

B], 69, 92<br />

1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane [Rosamusk], 190<br />

1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-2,4a]-methano<br />

naphthalene} (Ysamber K), 163–164<br />

1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)-ethanone<br />

[Dimuscan], 199<br />

1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one [Tetrascone],<br />

217<br />

1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane [Oxyvet], 58<br />

(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3-oxapentyl propionate)<br />

[Helvetolide], 192–193<br />

302


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime [Rosoxime], 102, 240<br />

1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate (Polywood), 28<br />

1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}-dioxane<br />

[Belambre], 158, 209–210<br />

(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl propionate<br />

[Romandolide], 195–196<br />

1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one (Spirogalbanone), 258–259<br />

1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate (Isopentyrate), 24<br />

1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl (Jacinthaflor), 212–213<br />

1,3,5-undecatriene (Galbanolene), 18, 75<br />

1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl (Oxane), 46<br />

1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone) [Galbaniff],<br />

257–258<br />

1,3-undecadien-5-yne [Violettyne MIP (Firmenich)], 245–246<br />

1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone (Georgywood), 165–167<br />

1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one [Isodamascone],<br />

4, 41, 235<br />

1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [<strong>α</strong>-Damascone], 15, 19, 41,<br />

43, 81, 232–233<br />

1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one [γ-Damascone], 232<br />

1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [β-Damascone],<br />

15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232<br />

Opalal (7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane), 148–149<br />

Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183<br />

oral woody orris and violet florals, 119–120<br />

Orange pyridine (5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine), 223–224<br />

Orangeox, 222<br />

Orcinyl No. 3, 57<br />

Organza by Givenchy, 232<br />

Orinox (4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone), 213<br />

Orivone (p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone), 30<br />

Oscar de la Renta, 10, 65<br />

o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2 (Amber core), 96<br />

o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol (Rootanol), 86<br />

Otkatone (I), 112<br />

Ourtivert, 18, 44, 75<br />

Oxadrane, 96<br />

Oxalide (10-Oxadecanolide), 10<br />

Oxambria, 32<br />

Oxambrol, 32<br />

Oxane (1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl), 46<br />

Oxaspirane, 23<br />

303


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl, methyl ether<br />

[Gly<strong>com</strong>el], 64<br />

Oxo-<strong>α</strong>-ionyl isobutyrate, 218–219<br />

oxo-damascone, 70, 108<br />

oxo-edulan(III), 108<br />

Oxophorone (I) (2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione), 108<br />

Oxophoryl, 62<br />

Oxo-Theaspirane (3-Theaspirone), 62, 109<br />

oxyacetaldehydes, 42<br />

Oxygène by Lanvin, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252<br />

Oxyoctaline formate, 54<br />

Oxyser (vetyverone), 30<br />

Oxysesquine, 53<br />

Oxyvet [1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane], 58<br />

Ozofleur (cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 157–158<br />

ozonic family, 92, 157–158<br />

P – Q<br />

Paco Rabanne, 27, 48<br />

Palisandin (cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6, 27<br />

palmarosa florals, 120<br />

Pamplefleur (IFF), 224<br />

Pamplenol, 56<br />

Pamplenol C (3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers),<br />

113<br />

Pampleune Aqua allegoria, 252<br />

Pamplovert, 224<br />

Pandanol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45<br />

Pandora for Men, 220<br />

p-Anisyl Phenylacetate, 107<br />

Paradisamide, 224–225<br />

Paradisone [(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate], 242–245<br />

Paris, 128<br />

Parker, Sarah Jessica–Lovely by, 201<br />

parmantheme, 19<br />

Parmanyl (Symrise) [3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile], 245<br />

Passifloran (3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate), 266–267<br />

Patchomint (3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol), 88<br />

Patchoulac (Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid), 70<br />

Patchouli epoxide, 7, 27<br />

patchouli woody chemicals, 53<br />

Patchoulol 100%, 161–162<br />

304


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Patchouly, 42, 92<br />

Patinol, 41<br />

Patou, Jean–Joy by, 68<br />

p-Chloroacetophenone, 72<br />

p-Cresol, 41<br />

p-Cresyl crotonate, 105<br />

p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate (Narcisse ketone), 104–105<br />

p-Cresyl isobutyrate, 41<br />

p-Cresyl isovalerate, 104<br />

p-Cresyl isovalerianate, 41<br />

p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone (Tricyclo hexanone P.), 65<br />

p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone (Bicyclohexanone P), 61<br />

peachy fruits, 125<br />

pear fruity aromatics, 249–251<br />

Pearlate (cis-3-octenyl propionate), 264<br />

Peionile (2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile), 119<br />

Pelargonic acid, 5, 51<br />

Pellegrino, Roger, 258<br />

pentambrette(II) [propyl acetate], 99<br />

Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herboxane), 50, 127<br />

pentenoic, n-amylic esters of, 89<br />

pentylcyclopentenone (Delphone), 39, 40<br />

peomosa (2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol), 116<br />

Peranat (2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate), 250<br />

Perfumer’s Workshop, Tea Rose by, 240<br />

perfumery marketing, 47–48<br />

Perilla (dihydrocuminic aldehyde), 11<br />

p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether (Anise ether), 64<br />

p-Ethyl phenoxyacetaldehyde, 76<br />

p-Ethylphenol, 103<br />

p-Ethyl-phenol methyl ether, 69<br />

Petitgrain Paraguay, 23<br />

Petunial (methyl 5-methylsalycilate), 213<br />

Pey, Arturo Jordi, 258<br />

phantolid ketal + a methyl group (Amraketal), 94<br />

Pharaone (2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one), 257<br />

Phenafleur (Phenylethyl cyclohexylether), 72<br />

Phenirane, 67<br />

Phenomuskol (p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone), 70<br />

Phenoxanol (3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol), 67, 116, 239<br />

phenoxyacetic aldehyde (Cortex Aldehyde), 17, 44<br />

Phenyl acetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, 71<br />

305


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid (Patchoulac), 70<br />

Phenyl ethyl-n-butyl ether, 66<br />

phenyl methyl penten nitrile (Citronitrile), 37<br />

phenylacetates, 107<br />

phenylacetic acid, 107<br />

phenylacetic aldehyde, 17, 44<br />

phenylacetic aldehyde ethylene glycol acetal, 72<br />

phenylacetketone, 125<br />

phenylaketone, 18<br />

Phenylethyl cyclohexylether (Phenafleur), 72<br />

Phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacintin), 72<br />

phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol), 68<br />

Phenylethyl 2-methyl butyrate, 67<br />

phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal (Acetal R), 45<br />

phenylethyles, 42<br />

phenylpropionic aldehyde, 19<br />

Phenyral, 74<br />

Phloralid (1-Methoxy indane), 70<br />

Photo, 183<br />

p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone (Fambione), 15<br />

physeol (III), 93<br />

pineapple fruity aromatics, 43, 122, 249–251<br />

Pineone (2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one), 25<br />

pinoacetaldehyde, 42<br />

p-Isopropyl phenylacetaldehyde, 44<br />

p-Isopropyl-hydratropaldehyde, 44<br />

p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal (Florhydral), 117–118<br />

Pivarose, 39<br />

Piver, Tréfle Incarnat by, 2<br />

Pleasures by Estée Lauder, 252<br />

Pleasures Intense, 193<br />

Plicatone [4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one], 25<br />

2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 73<br />

p-menthen-9-al, 13, 39<br />

p-methoxyphenyl butanone (Frambinon methylether), 15, 43<br />

p-Methyl dimethyl benzyl carbinol, 71–72<br />

p-methyl phenyl acetaldehyde, 44<br />

p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde (Aldehyde XI), 119<br />

p-methyoxy-phenylbutanone, 15<br />

Polo by Ralph Lauren, 8, 42, 105, 262<br />

Polo Export Extreme, 143<br />

Polymethylol acetate, 66<br />

306


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Polysantol (3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and<br />

1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol),<br />

97, 174, 182–183<br />

Polywood [1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate], 28<br />

Polywoodis, 28<br />

Pomarose (5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one), 234–235<br />

Pour-Femme by Jean Louis Scherrer, 42<br />

Prachinese, 190<br />

Prassinate, 250–251<br />

Precarone (4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one),<br />

120, 242<br />

Precyclemone B [1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde],<br />

69, 92<br />

prenyl angelate, 153–154<br />

Printanyl/C, 71<br />

Prismantol (4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol), 162–163<br />

Prismylate, 170<br />

Private Collection, 128<br />

Profarnesal, 44<br />

propionate, 16, 41<br />

propyl acetate [pentambrette(II)], 99<br />

propyl dianthilis, 106, 116<br />

Propyl phenylacetate, 107<br />

propylene glycol acetals of vanilla, 60<br />

propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate [Sclareolate], 147–148<br />

Provencalis, 18<br />

Prunella, 152, 212<br />

Pseudo Linalol, 38<br />

p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone (Orivone), 30<br />

p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone (Phenomuskol), 70<br />

P-tertiary butylquinoline, 104<br />

pungent woody products, 6–8, 27–28, 53, 92–96<br />

pyrazines, 255<br />

Pyroprunat (2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate), 121<br />

quinolines, 37<br />

R<br />

Rabanne of Paco Rabanne, 14<br />

racinal, 42<br />

Racinon, 30<br />

radiant family, 4, 15–16, 43–44, 125<br />

307


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Raphael, Replique by, 2<br />

raspberry fruity products, 43, 122<br />

reconstitutions<br />

versus natural oils<br />

1985, 22<br />

Red Jeans, 182<br />

Replique by Raphael, 2<br />

Reseda Body [4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane], 72<br />

Resedafol, 45<br />

Resinodor, 155<br />

resinous balsams, 35, 107–108<br />

resinous greens, 18–19, 45–46, 127<br />

Rhodipol/C, 35<br />

Rholiate, 24<br />

Rhubaflor, 56, 172<br />

Rhubafuran (Soofi), 186<br />

Rhubofix, 7, 27, 169<br />

Rhubofuran, 172<br />

Rhumacetal (Cyclohexanone diethylacetal), 124<br />

Robert, Guy, 81<br />

Rocabar, 85<br />

Rochas<br />

Absolu de Rochas, 195<br />

Aquaman, 162<br />

Femme, 2<br />

Globe, 99<br />

Macassar, 22<br />

Madame Rochas, 83<br />

Roma, 128<br />

Romanal (tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide), 7<br />

Romandolide [(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl<br />

propionate], 195–196<br />

Romascone (methyl-γ-cyclogeranate), 151–152<br />

Romeo Gigli Man Cologne, 110, 220<br />

Root Body, 35<br />

Rootanol (o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol), 86<br />

roots, 4, 127<br />

Rosacinthin (beta phenylethyl ethyl ether), 45<br />

Rosacintin (Phenylethyl ethyl ether), 72<br />

Rosaltone, 39<br />

Rosalva, 41<br />

Rosalyptus (Rhodia) [N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide], 241–242<br />

308


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Rosamusk [1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane], 190<br />

rosaphen, 116<br />

Rose dihydroxide, 67<br />

rose florals, 12–13, 67–68, 116, 239–242<br />

rose furan, 13, 39<br />

rose ketones, 230–235<br />

rose nitrile, 116<br />

rose oxide, 12, 39<br />

Rose oxo-oxide, 67<br />

Roseate, 41<br />

Rosetyl (0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether), 69<br />

Rosilial (Rhodia) [citronnellyl lactate], 241<br />

Rosoxime [(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime], 240<br />

Rosyrane (2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane), 119<br />

Roudnitska, Edmond, 3, 20, 78, 81, 115, 129, 145, 166, 219, 243, 244<br />

Royal Ambré, 48<br />

Ruzicka, Leopold, 211<br />

S<br />

Safari for Ladies, 128<br />

Safari for Men, 97, 183<br />

Saffrania, 38<br />

Safraleine (2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one), 226<br />

Safranal, 38<br />

Safrandione (2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one), 226–227<br />

sagetone V (Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2), 85<br />

Saint-Laurent, Yves<br />

Nu, 190, 193<br />

Opium, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183<br />

salicylate, 17<br />

Salycinalva (2-phenylhexanitrile), 154<br />

Samaram, 85<br />

Samsara, 97, 128, 183<br />

San Dra C, 174, 204<br />

Sandalore, 29<br />

Sandalwood Givco (Givaudan), 178<br />

sandalwood products, 6–8, 28–30, 32, 55–56, 87, 96–98, 173–185<br />

Sandel C, 29<br />

Sandel Mysore Core, 174<br />

Sandel/A [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55<br />

Sandela [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29<br />

Sandelex TNK (3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol), 8, 29<br />

309


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

Sandenol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29<br />

Sandeol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8<br />

Sanjinol, 182<br />

Santal Mysore Core [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55<br />

santalol, 8<br />

Sauvegrain, Philippe, 258<br />

Scalareolide, 158, 208<br />

Scarious, Cyperius, 22<br />

Scentenal (6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde), 76<br />

Scheherazade, 171<br />

Scherrer, Jean Louis<br />

Pour-Femme, 42<br />

Scherrer II, 183<br />

Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate (Aromavert), 108<br />

Sclarene (4,5-Decamethylene oxazole), 85<br />

Sclareolate [propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate], 147–148<br />

Sclarex (5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl<br />

acetate), 150<br />

Seamoss (Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate), 98<br />

secbutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44<br />

Sensi, 193<br />

Serenolide, 203<br />

7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane (Opalal), 148–149<br />

7,11-Epoxymegastigma-5(6)-en-9-one, 218<br />

7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one (Laitone), 109<br />

7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one [Azurone], 251<br />

Shangralide, 58<br />

s-heptyl furan, 68<br />

Shillong, 190<br />

Shiva, 45<br />

Sigaride, 11<br />

Silvial, 229<br />

Silvial (2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal), 230<br />

sinensal, 37<br />

Sinocitril, 37<br />

6-Acetoxydihydrotheaspirane, 154<br />

6-Amylalphapyrone, 36<br />

6-amyl-a-pyrone(II), 109<br />

6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol (Nonadyl), 127<br />

6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5-en-1-ol, mixture of<br />

(Meoparf ), 236–237<br />

6-hydroxydihydrotheaspirane, 89, 186–187<br />

310


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

6-Isopropyl-2-decalone (Decatone), 30<br />

6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde (Scentenal), 76<br />

6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal (Methoxymelonal), 122<br />

6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone [Cashmeran], 42, 44<br />

6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone (Tuberolactone), 43<br />

So de Givenchy, 194<br />

So Pretty, 128<br />

Sonia Rykiel, 190<br />

Soofi (Rhubafuran), 186<br />

Sotolone (4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one), 214–215<br />

Spezia, 38<br />

spice family, 3, 11, 38, 65–66, 113, 226–227<br />

Spirambrene, 95<br />

Spirogalbanone (1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one), 258–259<br />

Stemone, 18<br />

strrax, 154<br />

styrallyl acetate, 75<br />

Styrallyl crotonate (Forenat), 108<br />

sugar pyranone (2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone), 215–216<br />

Sulfocassione, 253–254<br />

sulfox (II), 123<br />

Sumatril (Tricyclodecane carbonitrile), 105<br />

Super Muguet, 229<br />

Sylvestone, 11<br />

Syvertal, 45<br />

T<br />

Tabanone (3-megastigmatrienone), 62, 108<br />

Tabaxol (2-methylbenzoxazole), 216<br />

tachrysate, 25<br />

Tamarine base, 46<br />

Tamigone, 90<br />

Tamisone, 154–155<br />

Tangenil, 37<br />

tangerine citrics, 63–64<br />

tangerinol(III), 126<br />

Tarragol (octahydroeugenol), 113, 227–228<br />

TCD acetate (tricyclodecane methanol acetate), 31<br />

tea, 154<br />

Tea Rose by Perfumer’s Workshop, 240<br />

Ted Lapidus for Men, 93<br />

Tellurol, 70<br />

311


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene (Neocaspirene),<br />

123–124<br />

10-Oxadecanolide (Oxalide), 10<br />

Terrasol (ethyl fenchol), 28, 86<br />

Tetrahydro ethyl safranate (Thesaron), 153<br />

tetrahydrocitral, 5, 24<br />

Tetrahydroedulane, 52<br />

tetrahydroionol, 187–188<br />

tetrahydrolinalol, 38<br />

Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran (Doremox), 119<br />

Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol (Clarycet), 84–85<br />

tetrahydromyrcenol, 12, 38<br />

tetrahydromyrcenyl acetate, 38<br />

Tetrahydronootkatol, 225<br />

tetramethyl hexanal (Vandor B or TMH Aldehyde), 24<br />

tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide (Romanal), 7<br />

Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one (Valanone B), 54<br />

Tetramethylethylcyclohexanone, 90, 155<br />

Tetrascone [1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one], 217<br />

Theaspirane, 52, 154<br />

Thesaron (Tetrahydro ethyl safranate), 153<br />

Thibetolide, 34<br />

Thio Terpineol, 46, 63<br />

Thiocineol, 37, 46, 112<br />

Thiogeraniol, 46<br />

Thiolimonene, 46, 112<br />

thioterpineol(III), 112<br />

thiovert (III), 123<br />

13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one (Nirvanolide), 195<br />

13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane (Cyclamber), 54, 96<br />

3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate (Passifloran), 266–267<br />

3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile [Parmanyl (Symrise)], 245<br />

3-decen-2-one, 72<br />

3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol (Sandela, Santalex<br />

TNK, Sandeol or Sandenol), 8, 29<br />

3-(5-Methyl-2-furyl)-butanal, 246–247<br />

3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile (Fleuranil), 158<br />

3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers (Kohinool), 100<br />

3-Methyl octyl nitrile (Jascitile), 59<br />

3-{4-Methylcyclo-hexen-3-yl}-butanol (Cyclomethylene citronellol), 117<br />

3-megastigmatrienone (Tabanone), 62, 108<br />

3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate (Cassis Thio Formate), 253–254<br />

312


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

3-methyldodecyl nitrile (Frescyle), 64<br />

3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile (Hydrocitronitrile), 230<br />

3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal (Mefranal), 118<br />

3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol (Phenoxanol), 67, 116, 239<br />

3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol (Fleursandol), 179–181<br />

3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol [Madranol], 168–169<br />

3-Methyl-γ-nonalactone, 73<br />

3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol (Muguesia), 238–239<br />

3-Methyl-6-p-tertiary butyl phenol, 58<br />

3-methylthiohexenol, 46<br />

3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol (Ebanol), 97, 182<br />

3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate (Aladinate), 264<br />

3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers (Pamplenol C),<br />

113<br />

3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one [Florex], 35<br />

3-phenyl butyraldehyde (Trifernal), 76<br />

(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-<strong>α</strong>-propyl cyclohexane propanol<br />

[Nor Limbanol and Dextro Nor Limbanol], 93, 160–161<br />

3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate (Mettambrate), 124<br />

3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol (Muguetinol), 237–238<br />

3-Theaspirone (Oxo-Theaspirane), 62, 109<br />

3-Thiohexanol, 265<br />

3-Thiohexyl acetate, 266<br />

3-Thiohexyl butyrate, 267<br />

3-Thiohexyl Caproate, 267<br />

3-Thiohexyl invovalerate, 267<br />

3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and<br />

1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol<br />

(Polysantol), 97, 174, 182–183<br />

3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane [Thymoxane], 52<br />

3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol (Patchomint), 88<br />

3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 36<br />

3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one (Isophorone), 108<br />

3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Herbavert), 128<br />

3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene<br />

(Nebulone), 201–202<br />

3,12-Tridecadien nitrile (Mandaril), 111–112<br />

3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol [Bornafix], 164–165<br />

thuione, 4<br />

thujonic herbals, 53, 90–91, 154–155<br />

Thymoxane [3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane], 52<br />

tiglates, 16, 39<br />

313


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

tiglic acid, 35<br />

Timberol, 7, 15, 27<br />

Timberol Forte, 206<br />

Timberone, 54<br />

TMH Aldehyde (tetramethyl hexanal), 24, 88<br />

Tobacarol [5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane], 94<br />

tobacco chemicals, 32, 36–37, 61–63, 108–109, 216–219<br />

Tocade, 239<br />

Tonalide, 10<br />

Tonkalactone, 110<br />

Tonkarol (Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol), 61<br />

Too Much Champs Elysées, 193<br />

Trans-δ-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-but-2-en-1-one],<br />

125, 232, 234<br />

Trans-decahydro β-naphthol, 55<br />

trans-4-decenal, 26<br />

trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3-hexanol<br />

[Limbanol], 158–159<br />

trans-9-decenal, 5<br />

trans-9-undecenal, 155–157<br />

trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol (violet leaf alcohol), 122<br />

trans-2-decenal, 5, 26<br />

trans-2-dodecenal<br />

aldehydes, 5<br />

citrics, 11<br />

trans-2-heptenal, 5<br />

trans-2-hexenol, 17<br />

trans-2-nonenal, 5, 26<br />

trans-2-tetradecenal, 229–230<br />

trans-2-tridecenal<br />

aldehydes, 5, 26<br />

citrics, 11<br />

trans-2-undecenal, 5<br />

Traseolide, 10<br />

Tréfle Incarnat by Piver, 2<br />

Tressor, 127<br />

Tricyclo hexanone P. (p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone), 65<br />

Tricyclodecane carbonitrile (Sumatril), 105<br />

tricyclodecane methanol acetate (TCD acetate), 31<br />

Tricyclone DIPG, 61<br />

Tricyclone DPG, 110<br />

tridecen-2-nitrile, 37<br />

314


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

Trifernal (3-phenyl butyraldehyde), 76<br />

Trimenal (trimethyldecadienal), 26<br />

Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol (Boisanol), 94<br />

trimethyl cyclohexyl acetate, 4<br />

Trimethyl octenol, 66<br />

trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide (Cedroxyde), 7<br />

Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol (Isocyclogeraniol), 120<br />

trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Isocyclocitral), 17<br />

trimethylcyclohexyl acetate, 23<br />

trimethyldecadienal (Trimenal), 26<br />

trimethylhexanal, 4, 24<br />

trimethylpentylcyclopentanone (Veloutone), 39, 41<br />

trimethylundecadienal (Oncidal), 14, 43<br />

trimethylundecylenic aldehyde (Adoxal or Farenal), 17<br />

Trimofix (acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene), 28<br />

Triplal (dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17, 25, 39<br />

Triplal nitrile (Trivertanyl), 110–111<br />

Trisamber (Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan), 163<br />

Trivertanol (Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol), 74<br />

Trivertanyl (Triplal nitrile), 110–111<br />

tropical greens, 127, 265–267<br />

Truth for Men by Calvin Klein, 178, 179, 257<br />

Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 99, 112<br />

Tuberolactone (6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone), 43<br />

Tuscani, 183<br />

12-Norallisolongifolan-14-one, 208–209<br />

12-Oxahexadecanolide (Hibiscolide), 10<br />

2-Acetoxy-1,8-cineol, 150<br />

2-acetyl furan, 216–217<br />

(-)-(2)-<strong>α</strong>-trans Bergamotol, 56<br />

2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol (Hydroxyambran), 94–95, 158, 167–168<br />

2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone (Givmenthe), 88<br />

2-cyclohexylethyl acetate (Ciclanol Acetate), 68<br />

2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one (Pharaone), 257<br />

2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile (Peionile), 119<br />

2-cyclopentenyl cyclo pentanone, 66<br />

2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate (Pyroprunat), 121<br />

2-dodecadienal, 11, 37<br />

2-Dodecenoic acid, 64<br />

2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol (Ultravanil), 106<br />

2-ethoxy-thiazole, 44<br />

2-ethylbenzoxazole (Mossenate), 216<br />

315


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone [Homofuronol], 214<br />

2.5-dimethyl heptene-5-ol-2, 50<br />

2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one (Dimethyloctenone), 113<br />

2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one (artemisia ketone), 91<br />

2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal (Lyrisal), 118<br />

2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal (Greenal), 88<br />

2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine (Vethymine), 87<br />

2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile (Khusinyl), 225<br />

2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate (Floralate), 112<br />

2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane (Magnolan), 117<br />

2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime (Labienoxime DA), 123–124<br />

2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one (Labienone), 121, 248<br />

2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one (Claritone), 149–150<br />

2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one (Pineone), 25<br />

2,4-Hexadienol (Mimoril), 42<br />

2-hexyl furan, 68<br />

2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline (Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide), 32<br />

2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline (Ambrinoloxyde), 102<br />

2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one (Safrandione), 226–227<br />

2-Methyl decyl nitrile (Frutonile), 69<br />

2-methyl pentenoic acid, 89<br />

2-methyl tetrahydro furan-3-one, 64<br />

2-methylbenzoxazole (Tabaxol), 216<br />

2-methylbutyrate, 16<br />

2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal [Cetonal], 247<br />

2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol [Santal Mysore Core or<br />

Sandel/A ], 55<br />

2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al [Mysoral], 176–177<br />

2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol [Firsantol],<br />

97, 175–176<br />

2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone (Methyl tuberate or tuberolide), 43<br />

2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate (Peranat), 250<br />

2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol (peomosa), 116<br />

2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal (Histidal), 87<br />

2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl acetate [MCP<br />

acetate], 31, 44, 99<br />

2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal (Silvial), 230<br />

2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran (Desoxide), 23<br />

212 by Carolina Herrera, 175<br />

2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane [Bicyclolactone], 61<br />

2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane (Rosyrane), 119<br />

2-phenylhexanitrile (Salycinalva), 154<br />

316


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 43<br />

2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone (Freskomenthe), 88<br />

2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one (Isotagetone), 73<br />

2,6 Dodecadienal, 11<br />

2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol [Geosmin], 32, 33<br />

2,6-Dimethyl-4-heptanone, 147<br />

2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene (Isospirene), 39, 64, 124<br />

2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120<br />

2,6-nonadienol, 14, 19<br />

2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone (sugar pyranone), 215–216<br />

2,3-laevo-Dihydrofarnesol, 237–238<br />

2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one (Safraleine), 226<br />

2-tridecenal, 37<br />

2,2,4 (2,4,4) trimethyl cyclopentanone, 53<br />

2,-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl} (Karanal), 95<br />

2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine (Hederyl), 126<br />

2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol (Octalinol), 122, 252<br />

2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione (Cetotabac), 36, 108–109, 217<br />

2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione (Oxophorone), 108<br />

2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol (nor limbanol), 93, 160–161<br />

2,2,6-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 25<br />

2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane (Lime oxide), 23, 112<br />

2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano (Geranic oxide), 23<br />

U<br />

Ultravanil (2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol), 106<br />

Ultraviolet, 143, 176, 193<br />

Undecavertol (4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol), 127<br />

undecen-2-nitrile(II), 111<br />

Undecylenic nitrile, 60<br />

Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen by Givenchy, 86<br />

V<br />

Vacher, Paul, 81<br />

Valanone B (Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one), 54<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels<br />

Tsar, 99<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels for Men, 106, 128<br />

Zanzibar, 162<br />

Vandor B (tetramethyl hexanal), 24<br />

vanilla family, 35, 60, 106<br />

317


Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution<br />

vanillin, 106<br />

Vanillyl isobutyrate (Isobutavan), 106<br />

Veloutone (trimethylpentylcyclopentanone), 39, 41<br />

Veramoss, 8<br />

Verbenone, 45, 50<br />

Verbenyl acetate, 147<br />

<strong>Verdima</strong> (<strong>α</strong>,<strong>α</strong>-<strong>Diethylpyridine</strong>), <strong>261–262</strong><br />

Verlastil, 44<br />

Vernaldehyde, 44<br />

Versus Time for Action, 194<br />

Vert d’ Encens, 45<br />

Vert de Capicine, 45<br />

Vert de Pamplemousse, 46, 112<br />

Vert Violettal, 19<br />

Vertamide, 75<br />

Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur (methyl cedryl ketone), 6–7, 27, 233<br />

Vertral (II) (formyltricyclodecane), 125<br />

Verylane, 50<br />

Vethymine (2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine), 87<br />

Vetiver by Gerlain, 128<br />

vetiver chemicals, 169–173<br />

vetiver oils, 87<br />

Vetocet (vetyverone), 30<br />

Vetycon, 30<br />

Vetykone, 186<br />

Vetylbois (1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene), 96<br />

Vetysertone (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30<br />

Vetyval (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30<br />

vetyver, 30, 92<br />

Vetyverols, 169<br />

vetyverones (Oxyser and Vetrocet), 30<br />

Vigoflor (IFF), 186<br />

Vikä cologne by Lever, 45<br />

violet florals, 14, 72, 119–120, 245–248<br />

violet greens, 19<br />

violet leaf alcohol (trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol), 122<br />

Violet nitrile (Nitrile nonadienyl), 72<br />

Violet nitrile (2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120<br />

Violettyne MIP (Firmenich) (1,3-undecadien-5-yne), 245–246<br />

Violiff (IFF) [4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate], 246<br />

Vivaldie (Cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether), 261<br />

vulcanolide, 102, 198<br />

318


Arcadi Boix Camps Index<br />

W<br />

Wardia, 235<br />

Warnecke, Hans Ulrich, 161, 168<br />

watermelon fruity, 122, 251–252<br />

watermelon ketone (dihydrobenzoxepinone), 15, 81<br />

White Cyclamen, 120<br />

White Rose (Bielaya Rosa), 239<br />

Wings for Women, 114<br />

Wolkowisky, Mr., 78<br />

woody family, 3, 6–8, 26–31, 53–57, 92–98, 158–169, 186–192<br />

woody oakmoss chemicals, 57<br />

woody-floral family, 99–100<br />

woody-moist-rooty-earthy chemicals, 56–57<br />

Woolfwood ([15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-<br />

3,1’-[2]-cyclohexen]-4-one), 96, 169–170<br />

Worth, Je reviens by, 2<br />

X – Y<br />

XS<br />

for ladies, 127, 182, 183, 236<br />

for men, 92<br />

Yatagan, 27, 48<br />

Yrotil (ethylethylcapronate), 30<br />

Ysamber K, 158<br />

Ysamber K (1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-<br />

2,4a]-methano naphthalene}), 163–164<br />

Yugoslavian Oakmoss absolute, 57<br />

Yvresse, 23, 128<br />

Z<br />

Zanzibar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 162<br />

Zegna, Essenza by, 175, 176, 190<br />

Zen de Shiseido, 40<br />

0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether (Rosetyl), 69<br />

Zestaroma, 17<br />

zestarome, 125<br />

Zestodial, 17, 125<br />

Ziblenia, 43<br />

Zinarine, 263–264<br />

319

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!