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ADVERTORIAL Europe and rarely used today, this modelling process has been adopted by Chao to forge precise prototypes of her jewellery pieces with all their undulating lines and intricate details. The organic effect, a hallmark of her creations, derives not only from waxsculpting but also from the refined gemsetting technique that consists of using gemstones of different dimensions, cuts and polishes on the same surface – a meticulous procedure which, in Chao’s case, requires more than 10,000 hours to fully complete. Each precious gem is accurately selected and scrutinised by three GIAcertified examiners to guarantee that only the finest-quality specimens are used for the jewel. They are then set strategically, according to their dimension, hue, texture and brilliance to enhance its silhouette. This year’s Black Label Masterpieces were inspired by Chao’s trip to British Columbia in 2017. Stunned by the beauty of this region’s nature, the artist transferred her impressions into the collection that Masterpiece London’s visitors had the chance to admire in all its splendour. Among the wonderful pieces dazzling in the brand’s dark booth at the fair, the 2018 Black Label Masterpiece XII and XV Emerald Feather Brooches stood out not only for their beauty but also for the special technique they have been crafted with. Ultra-lightweight titanium in combination with silver were used to build the feathers that were subsequently decorated with Colombian emeralds, fancy-coloured diamonds and tsavorites. Weighing as much as five French truffles, the brooch pair are endowed with life thanks to the movable joints, while an extra cycle of cutting and polishing at the final stage of production allows their colour to look particularly vibrant. The juxtaposition of titanium, one of the most robust alloys in the world, and emeralds, known for being soft gemstones, highlights the innovative spirit of Cindy Chao who never ceases to experiment in the constant search for aesthetic perfection. The same material and gemstones were used to craft the 2018 Black Label Masterpieces VII Flower Bud Brooch. Here, the emeralds in faceted cuts and cabochons are enclosed in a diamonddrifted titanium floret, the curving lines and folds of which offer a natural fluidity to the piece. Equally stunning, the Peony Brooch was awarded Outstanding Object and described as “an example of contemporary craftsmanship and great design” by the Masterpiece Award Committee. Rendered in purple-coloured titanium and entirely set with rubies and diamonds, the Peony Brooch, like all CINDY CHAO’s jewelled sculptures, looks as alive and vulnerable as a natural creation. While holding it in your hand it is easy to feel the instinct to take it to your nose to inhale its perfume or to run your finger through the softness of its voluptuous petals. “I believe that a creator’s journey is often solitary for it takes a tremendous amount of courage to be visionary, to be revolutionary and break boundaries,” Chao admits. Indeed, the designer has proved herself courageous once again with her latest collection, and while we may expect she has already broken all boundaries, she is certainly already planning her next challenge. 2018 BLACK LABEL MASTERPIECE XI AUTUMN LEAVES BROOCHES in titanium and silver set with a conch pearl and diamonds
Style & Beauty A SEASONAL COMPENDIUM TO SARTORIAL FLAIR, ENCHANTING JEWELS AND HAUTE HORLOGERIE BEHIND THE SCENES SET IN STONE Literally hidden behind the gems, settings are a jewellery designer’s secret weapon. AVRIL GROOM chronicles the rarest contemporary examples and explains how they make special pieces pop Photography by XAVIER YOUNG No two diamonds are alike,” famed New York jewellery designer Harry Winston once said. “Each one has a different nature. Each must be handled the way you handle a person.” Winston, who earned his reputation as the king of diamonds, no doubt had in mind every aspect of the gem and especially the one feature that we always see but rarely speak about – the setting. A jewel sparkles and refracts light not just in relation to the oft-quoted “4 Cs” of cut, clarity, colour and carats, but also as a result of the particular CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 51
