BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW Global Gourmand Two Latin American cities offering an international feast, plus the best gastronomic tomes. By BROOKE PORTER KATZ MEXICAN BOUNTY You could spend an entire week – even a month – in Mexico City eating nothing but tacos, tostadas, tamales and other dishes with a healthy dose of what’s called “vitamin T”, but that would mean missing out on what makes the dining scene there so exciting right now. Take Masala & Maiz ( $ masalaymaiz .com), which recently opened in the residential San Miguel de Chapultepec neighbourhood and is possibly the only restaurant in town that blends the flavours of Mexico with those of India and Africa. This surprising yet genius mash-up was inspired by the cultural backgrounds of its owners, Norma Listman and Saqib Keval, who create dishes like masala-spiced, peel-and-eat shrimp served with jicama and peanuts. Clockwise from left: Saqib Keval and Norma Listman at Masala & Maiz; Parisian-influenced El Roma Bistrot; Carmela & Sal‘s short rib with chirmol Buzzy young chef Joaquín Cardoso also looked to his heritage for his latest project, the romantic El Roma Bistrot (elromabistrot. com). His grandmother hailed from Cuba, which results in creations like seafood croquettes and soft-shell crab over beans and rice. Desserts – such as a rum baba topped with strawberries and whipped cream – come courtesy of pastry wunderkind Sofía Cortina. And while it’s tucked in a quiet corner off a leafy park, one step inside and you may as well be in Paris. If you’re looking for a powerlunch spot among a wellheeled business crowd, you’ll do no better than chef Gaby Ruíz’s elegant Carmela & Sal (carmelaysal.mx), in Lomas Virreyes. Floor-to-ceiling windows and wood parquet floors set the stage for a menu that’s divided by stages of music, from the interlude (like a refreshing fish ceviche) to the climax – think tender short ribs with a tangy chirmol sauce. For something a bit more low-key, try the new, noname spot in La Roma from Guerrero-born chef Jesús Tornes and the owners of next door’s El Parnita. It’s easy to find, now that it’s searchable by Expendio de Maíz $ , which simply means “the sale of corn”. A few lowslung tables and benches are set right on the pavement within view of baskets of PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ALEXIS RAYAS, © EL ROMA BISTROT, © CARMELA & SAL 40 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
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