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the early 14th century etched poignant messages,the Dordogne valley’s verdant panorama rolls to thehorizon. Today, the Middle Ages get visitors in the formof middle-aged travellers wandering fl ower-fi lled lanes,shopping for local wines, canard, crepes and glacesartisanales (homemade ice cream).We sought refuge at Les Fortous, a lavenderfringed,stone cottage in Paunat, a hamlet ofaround 200 people. Radiating from its tiny core,captivating wine regions, picturesque villages, sublimegastronomy, troglodytic forts and churches all awaitedthe pleasure of discovery. This was the land ofPerigord’s famous black truffl es, foie gras and gooseand throughout the week, the region’s sleepy medievaltowns are transformed into vibrant crossroads forgastronomic encounters with local produce.GLORIOUSLY GOOD FOODIt was early morning during late summer. Sarlat-la-Caneda’s cobblestone street market was postcardperfection. Shopping for larder luxuries in southwestFrance falls under the heading of ‘passion’ ratherthan ‘necessity’ and I couldn’t wait to pop gariguettestrawberries into my mouth. Staining my fingers, theytasted of sunshine. Not a bad way to start the day, Ideduced. The wicker basket soon filled with auberginesthat gleamed like patent leather, dew-dressed lettuce,orbs of vine tomatoes, a circle of chevre (goat’s cheese),baguettes wrapped with a delicate twist of paper, meatycepes mushrooms and a bottle of Cabernet Franc fromnearby Bergerac. Animated French voices made everydayexchanges lyrically charming. Gathering a home-bakedtarte tatin, we were ready to feast French-style.RETURNING TO THE PASTFrom Sarlat, we headed to Les Eyzies de Tayac, France’spre-historic ‘capital’, home of the Cro-Magnon Manand the fascinating Musee Nationale de Prehistoire,a modern sandstone building wedged into an ancientlimestone cliff. The soul of the Dordogne runs throughTRAVEL 3SIXTY˚89