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Ski Country Magazine 2016 - Guide to skiing the southwest

Your source for information on skiing, snowboarding and winter recreation in the southern Rockies, with striking photography and unusual articles. Serving Angel Fire, Taos, Taos Ski Valley, Red River, Sipapu, Pajarito, Purgatory at Durango, South Fork, Wolf Creek, Ski Apache, southern Colorado and the Enchanted Circle area in northern New Mexico. Arts, culture, activities, event calendar, dining and lodging information in area towns. This issue: "Tale-spinning in the high desert"; "Welcome to the southern Rockies: Winter Wants to Dance" about living and playing in a cold climate; "Name that Run," about origins of ski run names.

Your source for information on skiing, snowboarding and winter recreation in the southern Rockies, with striking photography and unusual articles. Serving Angel Fire, Taos, Taos Ski Valley, Red River, Sipapu, Pajarito, Purgatory at Durango, South Fork, Wolf Creek, Ski Apache, southern Colorado and the Enchanted Circle area in northern New Mexico. Arts, culture, activities, event calendar, dining and lodging information in area towns. This issue: "Tale-spinning in the high desert"; "Welcome to the southern Rockies: Winter Wants to Dance" about living and playing in a cold climate; "Name that Run," about origins of ski run names.

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WINTER <strong>2016</strong><br />

<strong>Ski</strong><strong>Country</strong><br />

GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST<br />

Angel Fire<br />

Chama<br />

Durango<br />

Pajari<strong>to</strong><br />

Red River<br />

Sipapu<br />

South Fork<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

Taos<br />

Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

Wolf Creek<br />

1


Cool gear.<br />

Hot fashion.<br />

Angel Fire’s Top Shop<br />

Near <strong>the</strong> Resort Hotel<br />

wintersportsskishop.com<br />

575.377.6612<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Reservation Hotline:<br />

575.377.6559<br />

2


SKI AS MUCH AS YOU WANT, WHEN YOU WANT, WHERE YOU WANT.<br />

THE POWER TO CHOOSE<br />

FOUR MOUNTAINS. ONE PASS. UNLIMITED POSSIBLITIES.<br />

MORE THAN 3,000 ACRES OF TERRAIN • 29 LIFTS • OVER 200 TRAILS • 13 TERRAIN PARKS • COUNTLESS FAMILY MEMORIES<br />

t h e s o u t h w e s t ’ s l a r g e s t f a m i l y o f s k i r e s o r t s<br />

3


Contents<br />

Welcome<br />

6<br />

21<br />

Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

His<strong>to</strong>ric Hotels<br />

8<br />

22<br />

Durango Mountain Resort, Sipapu, Pajari<strong>to</strong><br />

Our Towns<br />

10<br />

23<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

Tale-spinning in <strong>the</strong> High Desert<br />

15<br />

25<br />

Alpine Lodges<br />

His<strong>to</strong>ric Hotels<br />

16<br />

26<br />

Name That Run<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> <strong>the</strong> Southwest<br />

19<br />

28<br />

Time <strong>to</strong> Dine<br />

Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley, Angel Fire Resort<br />

20<br />

30<br />

Calendar


PHOTO: GERAINT SMITH<br />

Publisher/Edi<strong>to</strong>r Joe Haukebo<br />

Design/Production Digerati Design<br />

Advertising Sales Christine Pedler<br />

Contributing Writers John Biscello, Gustav Herold<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>graphy Chris McClennan, Carol Morgan Eagle,<br />

Geraint Smith, Gak S<strong>to</strong>nn,<br />

Cover pho<strong>to</strong> Geraint Smith – Rio Grande<br />

High<strong>Country</strong> and <strong>Ski</strong><strong>Country</strong> Visi<strong>to</strong>r <strong>Guide</strong>s are<br />

published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material<br />

in this publication may not be reproduced in any form<br />

without written permission from <strong>the</strong> Publisher.<br />

Requests for permission should be directed <strong>to</strong>:<br />

Hawk Media<br />

PO Box 182, Angel Fire, NM 87710<br />

575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047<br />

info@hawk-media.com<br />

Scan <strong>the</strong> QR code or visit us at www.hawk-media.com<br />

for more articles, pho<strong>to</strong>s & e-zines


Angel<br />

Fire<br />

Winter wants<br />

<strong>to</strong> dance<br />

Welcome <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn Rockies<br />

6<br />

866.668.7787<br />

AngelFireFun.com<br />

n 1831, mountaineer Albert Pike<br />

I trekked across <strong>the</strong> Sangre de Cris<strong>to</strong><br />

Mountains in <strong>the</strong> dead of winter – a<br />

rough one, killer cold – trudging<br />

through deep snow and ice. He finally<br />

stumbled in<strong>to</strong> Taos half-frozen and<br />

severely frostbitten. His moccasined<br />

feet had swelled <strong>to</strong> four times <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

normal size. His Mexican host roasted<br />

onions and packed <strong>the</strong>m around Pike’s<br />

feet; <strong>the</strong> swelling eventually subsided<br />

and he regained <strong>the</strong>ir normal use.<br />

As a kid growing up near <strong>the</strong><br />

Minnesota-Canada border – <strong>the</strong> deep<br />

freeze of <strong>the</strong> nation – I wished we knew<br />

about <strong>the</strong> onion trick. We’d play hockey<br />

outside after school and after dinner<br />

and regularly freeze our feet. When we<br />

couldn’t feel <strong>the</strong>m any more, we’d crawl<br />

indoors and moan while we rubbed our<br />

<strong>to</strong>es, trying <strong>to</strong> rub away <strong>the</strong> numbness,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n rub away <strong>the</strong> jabbing needles as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y started <strong>to</strong> thaw. Our feet felt like<br />

freezer-burned meat. And we did this<br />

on a regular basis. We knew it made no<br />

sense, but it was winter and you don’t<br />

want <strong>to</strong> miss out – winter wants<br />

<strong>to</strong> dance.<br />

We did all kinds of different<br />

dances. From <strong>the</strong> early days, we were<br />

bundled up in bulky snowsuits and<br />

woollen mittens that grew heavier as<br />

<strong>the</strong> snow stuck <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. The suits, for<br />

<strong>the</strong> most part, kept out <strong>the</strong> snow and<br />

cold but <strong>the</strong>y were so cumbersome,<br />

if you plopped down <strong>to</strong> make a snow<br />

angel, it was <strong>to</strong>ugh <strong>to</strong> get back up – you<br />

worried about being stuck <strong>the</strong>re awhile.<br />

But as little kids we always had<br />

plenty of thing <strong>to</strong> worry about, things<br />

our older siblings <strong>to</strong>ld us <strong>to</strong> watch out<br />

for: monster icicles falling from roof<strong>to</strong>ps<br />

and splitting your head open like<br />

a melon; snow snakes that tripped you<br />

and dragged you away; wandering lost<br />

and snow-blind in blizzards that lasted<br />

for days; temperatures so cold you could<br />

freeze your lungs and spit ice. Our ripe<br />

imaginations could easily take over.<br />

The silence of a cold winter day only<br />

helped make it worse. But we braved<br />

<strong>the</strong> elements inside and out <strong>to</strong> build<br />

snow caves or fly downhill on sleds. Our<br />

play grew bolder, more reckless. We<br />

graduated <strong>to</strong> hockey, bombing enemies<br />

with snowballs, ice fishing, snowmobiles,<br />

snurfing on ice behind cars or<br />

<strong>skiing</strong> behind cars in interstate ditches.<br />

Many miles<strong>to</strong>ne memories were created,<br />

like no longer thinking of girls as icky,<br />

but holding gloved hands and skating<br />

around a dimly lit rink. Our fears and<br />

hopes changed.<br />

And when winter threw its best<br />

stuff at us, we learned <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>ugh it out.<br />

Old-timers taught us when netting<br />

whitefish under <strong>the</strong> ice that it was best<br />

in sub-zero wea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> freeze one bare<br />

hand on purpose. They’d show us how.<br />

You shove a cupped hand in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> hole<br />

of water where you pull <strong>the</strong> net out.<br />

Your hand would freeze in<strong>to</strong> a claw,<br />

which was good for unsnagging fish from<br />

<strong>the</strong> gill net.<br />

While we might freeze on purpose<br />

a hand for fish, we learned how not <strong>to</strong><br />

accidentally freeze <strong>to</strong> death. I remember<br />

40° below wea<strong>the</strong>r with a windchill of<br />

100° below, and snowmobiling – if anything<br />

was exposed, you were in trouble,<br />

frostbit face, fingers, whatever. Once<br />

temperatures get that low, it doesn’t


The life<br />

up high<br />

seem <strong>to</strong> matter how low <strong>the</strong> numbers get. It’s just<br />

arctic cold.<br />

Here in <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn Rockies, we have our<br />

share of big bad wolf winters that come lumbering<br />

in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountains, pushed by howling winds or<br />

dumping snow for days until <strong>the</strong> system lightens its<br />

load enough <strong>to</strong> lift and move on. Old-timers here<br />

talk about seven-footers in one blast, deep enough<br />

<strong>to</strong> bury snowmobiles where you can’t find <strong>the</strong>m,<br />

drifts mounded up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> roof. Or ice s<strong>to</strong>rms that<br />

could suffocate cattle or require helicopters <strong>to</strong> airlift<br />

feed. People hunker down and ride out <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>rm.<br />

It’s <strong>to</strong>ugher on <strong>the</strong> animals.<br />

This winter is supposed <strong>to</strong> be an El Niño year.<br />

And with luck, we’ll get some supers<strong>to</strong>rms. S<strong>to</strong>rms<br />

and freezing wea<strong>the</strong>r that make cars cranky, coughing<br />

and groaning before starting. Driveways that<br />

you shovel, and before you finish you have <strong>to</strong> start<br />

over again. Pipes that freeze and bust. Tree branches<br />

that snap. Roofs that avalanche.<br />

But we’re lucky. Unlike so many parts of <strong>the</strong><br />

nation, we are blessed with <strong>the</strong> famous Southwest<br />

sun – more sunny ski days than almost anywhere<br />

on <strong>the</strong> planet. So we don’t have <strong>to</strong> hide all day<br />

indoors; we can play outside until we’re worn out.<br />

Then, we come in <strong>to</strong> rest and sit by a roaring piñon<br />

fire, sip something warm, savor <strong>the</strong> smells of green<br />

chile stew or chantrelle mushroom goulash cooking<br />

on <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ve.<br />

Outside, you hear ano<strong>the</strong>r s<strong>to</strong>rm brewing, <strong>the</strong><br />

mounting wind rattling <strong>the</strong> windows. Then <strong>the</strong> first<br />

pellets of sleet pound <strong>the</strong> window pane you’re looking<br />

out just before dark. The sleet turns <strong>to</strong> snow and<br />

caught by a gust slants sideways across <strong>the</strong> window,<br />

spinning and swirling. Behind <strong>the</strong> window and <strong>the</strong><br />

snow large pines rock back and forth on <strong>the</strong> wind<br />

and behind that, an endless gray. The only sound is<br />

<strong>the</strong> occasional burst of wind and roar of <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>rm,<br />

an icy music. Winter is <strong>the</strong>re, calling you, waiting<br />

<strong>to</strong> dance.<br />

— Joe Haukebo, Publisher<br />

cross country<br />

snowmobile<br />

snowboard<br />

sleigh ride<br />

snowshoe<br />

downhill<br />

ice fish<br />

shop<br />

tube<br />

dine<br />

sled<br />

Angel Fire is<br />

7


His<strong>to</strong>ric Hotels<br />

Hotel La Fonda de Taos<br />

The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In <strong>the</strong><br />

heart of <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ric district on Taos Plaza,<br />

La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while<br />

preserving its rich Southwestern roots and<br />

ambience. Home <strong>to</strong> Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop<br />

and D.H. Lawrence’s “Forbidden Art Collection.”<br />

Nineteen rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse.<br />

Friendly, personal service. Walking distance <strong>to</strong><br />

galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, and fine dining.<br />

108 SOUTH PLAZA, TAOS, NEW MEXICO<br />

WWW.LAFONDATAOS.COM 800.833.2211 505.758.2211<br />

The His<strong>to</strong>ric Taos Inn<br />

Experience Southwestern charm and his<strong>to</strong>ry at The<br />

His<strong>to</strong>ric Taos Inn in <strong>the</strong> heart of Taos, New Mexico.<br />

Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of<br />

America’s Great Inns,” and listed on <strong>the</strong> National and NM<br />

Registers of His<strong>to</strong>ric Places. 44 rooms and suites, most<br />

with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s<br />

Restaurant and The Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour<br />

4-6 Monday-Friday; free live music nightly.<br />

125 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE, TAOS, NEW MEXICO<br />

TAOSINN.COM 575.758.2233<br />

St. James Hotel<br />

Where western his<strong>to</strong>ry – and <strong>the</strong> paranormal – come<br />

alive. The his<strong>to</strong>ric St. James Hotel, built in 1872, has<br />

hosted a smorgasbord of famous outlaws and Wild West<br />

legends including Clay Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt<br />

Earp. Today, it continues its tradition with fine dining and<br />

comfortable rooms and a res<strong>to</strong>red western restaurant and<br />

bar. Ghosts, each with <strong>the</strong>ir own obsessions<br />

and rituals, are said <strong>to</strong> still haunt <strong>the</strong> place.<br />

617 SOUTH COLLISON, CIMARRON, NEW MEXICO, 87714<br />

WWW.EXSTJAMES.COM 888.376.2664 575.376.2664<br />

8<br />

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700 Veterans Highway | Taos, New Mexico 87571 | 575-737-0777<br />

South of his<strong>to</strong>ric Taos Pueblo | TaosMountainCasino.com<br />

9


10


Our Towns<br />

Angel Fire<br />

Chama<br />

Cimarron<br />

Durango<br />

Eagle Nest<br />

I prefer winter…when you feel <strong>the</strong> bone<br />

structure of <strong>the</strong> landscape – <strong>the</strong> loneliness<br />

of it, <strong>the</strong> dead feeling of winter. Something<br />

waits beneath it, <strong>the</strong> whole s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

doesn’t show.<br />

— Andrew Wyeth<br />

Wyeth’s ode <strong>to</strong> winter, and its<br />

subtle undercurrents, would be a<br />

fitting prologue for tales of winter set in<br />

Nor<strong>the</strong>rn New Mexico and <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Rockies. The year-round or ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

timeless mystique and aura permeating<br />

<strong>the</strong>se regions takes on a stark and coldly<br />

luminous level of beauty and wonder<br />

during <strong>the</strong> winter season. Matriarchal<br />

mountains cot<strong>to</strong>n-swabbed in snow,<br />

deep silences flooding chasms and pine<br />

forests, wide-spanning skies reflecting a<br />

complexion of fleece and chalk. Yet this<br />

slow and meditative pulse is counter-balanced<br />

by <strong>the</strong> numerous celebrations<br />

and adrenaline-boosting activities that<br />

give <strong>the</strong> area its ritual charge. What you<br />

might call: Zen and <strong>the</strong> Art of Winter<br />

Merrymaking.<br />

Taos—high-desert iconoclast,<br />

mountain-maned black sheep, traditionalist<br />

with an anarchic streak—<strong>the</strong>re are<br />

many ways in which this Nor<strong>the</strong>rn New<br />

Mexico <strong>to</strong>wn can be pegged, but ultimately<br />

its character remains undefinable.<br />

“Yuletide in Taos” is <strong>the</strong> umbrella term<br />

for <strong>the</strong> various celebrations that take<br />

place during <strong>the</strong> holiday season. Two<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ric streets, Bent and Ledoux, are<br />

fire-kindled and given a festive makeover<br />

for local favorites: The Lighting<br />

of Ledoux (December 5) and Bonfires<br />

on Bent Street (December 12). The<br />

religious spirit of <strong>the</strong> holidays is quintessentially<br />

captured in <strong>the</strong> Las Posadas<br />

reenactments (December 14-21) at <strong>the</strong><br />

San Francisco de Assis Church, which<br />

marked its 200th anniversary in 2015.<br />

Taos Pueblo, <strong>the</strong> oldest continuously<br />

inhabited community in North<br />

Continued on page 13<br />

Red River<br />

South Fork<br />

Taos<br />

Taos Pueblo<br />

Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

PHOTOS: GERAINT SMITH<br />

11


ABOVE THE<br />

ORDINARY<br />

OPEN 7 DAYS<br />

Fast, Friendly Checkout<br />

Fruits & Veggies<br />

Fresh Meats<br />

Fine Wine & Spirits<br />

Fine Tobacco<br />

Subway<br />

DOING THE LITTLE EXTRAS TO SERVE OUR CUSTOMERS<br />

575.377.2354 • 3373 Highway 434 • Angel Fire, NM 87710


America, provides <strong>the</strong> sacred Christmas<br />

Eve setting for a procession and<br />

mood-evocative bonfires. On Christmas<br />

Day, <strong>the</strong> spirit of winter is honored<br />

through <strong>the</strong> Taos Pueblo Deer Danceor<br />

Matachine Dance.<br />

Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley, celebrating its<br />

60th season, recently lost its “First Lady,”<br />

Rhoda Blake, who was <strong>the</strong> nuts and<br />

bolts behind <strong>the</strong> Blake family’s 58-year<br />

stewardship of TSV. Sold <strong>to</strong> billionaire<br />

conservationist, Louis Bacon, in 2013,<br />

TSV is undergoing expansion, with base<br />

area additions <strong>to</strong> include a new hotel,<br />

retail space, equipment rentals, restaurant,<br />

and spa. The Kachina lift, completed<br />

in 2014, serves <strong>the</strong> highest elevation<br />

of any triple chair in North America<br />

(12,481 feet). As for one’s inspired<br />

downward trajec<strong>to</strong>ry on <strong>the</strong> slopes, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are multiple options: <strong>skiing</strong>, snowboarding,<br />

sledding, tubing and snow-shoeing.<br />

Bacchus enjoys elevated status during<br />

<strong>the</strong> ever-popular Winter Wine Festival<br />

(January 27-31), which is celebrating its<br />

30th year.<br />

When it comes <strong>to</strong> breath-arresting<br />

pyrotechnics, <strong>the</strong> sunsets at Angel Fire,<br />

after which <strong>the</strong> resort <strong>to</strong>wn is named,<br />

bring an all-natural glow <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> snowcapped<br />

mountain peaks. There are 76<br />

<strong>skiing</strong> and snowboarding trails, suitable<br />

for all age levels, and <strong>the</strong> Polar Coaster,<br />

<strong>the</strong> largest tubing park in <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Rockies, is <strong>the</strong> unofficial leader in<br />

“squealish delight” (see: Child’s Play).<br />

Two rollicking events, in which spirits<br />

are raised and grooves laid: Big Ol’ Texas<br />

Weekend (January 22-24) and Angel Fire<br />

Mardi Gras celebration (February 5-9).<br />

Red River, known for its Main<br />

Street quaintness and Texas-sized appetite<br />

for good times, exercises a happy<br />

middle ground with its ski base located in<br />

<strong>the</strong> center of <strong>to</strong>wn. An old-time tradition<br />

that was revived in recent years, <strong>the</strong> Winter<br />

Carnival and Parade of Ice (January<br />

15-17) features ice sculptures, snowmobile<br />

races, snowman building, live music,<br />

<strong>to</strong>rchlight parades, fireworks, and more.<br />

And for those who’d like <strong>to</strong> enjoy a Willy<br />

Wonka-fied version of <strong>skiing</strong>, <strong>the</strong>re’s Just<br />

Desserts Eat and <strong>Ski</strong> (February 27) in<br />

which <strong>the</strong> indulgence of homemade desserts<br />

sweetens <strong>the</strong> five-kilometer course at<br />

Enchanted Forest.<br />

It’s been a while since<br />

anyone seriously mined<br />

Baldy, and gambling here<br />

is a thing of <strong>the</strong> past,<br />

but <strong>the</strong>re’s still gold in<br />

Eagle Nest – <strong>the</strong> lake<br />

sports some of <strong>the</strong> best<br />

trout fishing in <strong>the</strong> state.<br />

Kokanee salmon join<br />

recordbreaking rainbows,<br />

cutthroats and o<strong>the</strong>r fish<br />

in an effort <strong>to</strong> beguile<br />

locals and visi<strong>to</strong>rs alike.<br />

Formerly a goldfever<br />

boom<strong>to</strong>wn, Chama is set in <strong>the</strong> awe-inspiring<br />

Rio Chama Valley. Hitting<br />

<strong>the</strong> slopes, ice fishing on <strong>the</strong> Heron<br />

Reservoir, or riding <strong>the</strong> rails on <strong>the</strong><br />

Cumbres-Toltec Scenic Railroad are<br />

several ways <strong>to</strong> experience <strong>the</strong> area. The<br />

43rd Annual Chama Chile <strong>Ski</strong> Classic,<br />

a cross-country ski event, takes place<br />

on Martin Lu<strong>the</strong>r King, Jr. weekend in<br />

January.<br />

Durango could be <strong>the</strong> charming<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn you find inside a snow globe, or<br />

<strong>the</strong> unsung verse in “Winter Wonderland.”<br />

At <strong>the</strong> heart of its winter<br />

fun is Purga<strong>to</strong>ry, <strong>the</strong> mountain resort<br />

which offers 35,000 acres of ski-friendly<br />

terrain. Snowboarding, snowshoeing,<br />

dog sledding, and sleigh rides are o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

means by which <strong>to</strong> traverse Purga<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

Caroling, hot chocolate, and a reading<br />

of The Polar Express, are part of “The<br />

Polar Express,” which takes place on <strong>the</strong><br />

Durango & Silver<strong>to</strong>n Narrow Gauge<br />

Railroad through <strong>the</strong> holidays. This<br />

year’s “Snowdown,” a popular weeklong,<br />

activity-filled event, brings <strong>the</strong><br />

spirit, fashion, and flair of <strong>the</strong> 1980s<br />

back in<strong>to</strong> vogue (January 27-31).<br />

As <strong>the</strong> inspired and elevated gateway<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> San Juan Mountains,<br />

Rio Grande County, which includes<br />

South Fork, Monte Vista and Del<br />

Norte, is a winter playground with<br />

lots of room <strong>to</strong> spare. Wolf Creek, just<br />

outside of South Fork, is powder-packed<br />

heaven for skiers, receiving <strong>the</strong> highest<br />

amount of snowfall in Colorado. South<br />

Fork’s “Winterfest” (December 11 and<br />

12) features sleigh rides, cocoa-sipping,<br />

Christmas crafts, and a visit from old St.<br />

Nick himself. Monte Vista, home of <strong>the</strong><br />

National Wildlife Refuge Center, celebrates<br />

its 33rd annual “Crane Festival”<br />

(March 11-13). Del Norte offers natural<br />

splendors in various forms, including<br />

Lookout Mountain, Elephant Rocks, and<br />

Penitente Canyon, one of Colorado’s<br />

premier sport climbing areas.<br />

– John Biscello<br />

13


14


Tale-spinning in <strong>the</strong> high desert<br />

In <strong>the</strong> beginning was <strong>the</strong> word<br />

“Who is <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ryteller? Of whom is <strong>the</strong><br />

s<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>to</strong>ld? What is <strong>the</strong>re in <strong>the</strong> darkness <strong>to</strong><br />

imagine in<strong>to</strong> being? What is <strong>the</strong>re <strong>to</strong> dream<br />

and <strong>to</strong> relate? What happens when I or<br />

anyone exerts <strong>the</strong> force of language upon<br />

<strong>the</strong> unknown? ... If <strong>the</strong>re is any absolute<br />

assumption in back of my thoughts…it is<br />

this: that we are what we imagine. Our<br />

very existence consists in our imagination of<br />

ourselves. Our best destiny is <strong>to</strong> imagine at<br />

last, completely, who, and what, and that<br />

we are. The greatest tragedy that can befall<br />

us is <strong>to</strong> go unimagined.”<br />

– N. Scott Momaday,<br />

The Way <strong>to</strong> Rainy Mountain<br />

Y<br />

ou could say that s<strong>to</strong>rytelling<br />

is <strong>the</strong> descendant of an innate<br />

and ageless spirituality, or <strong>the</strong> genetic<br />

sibling <strong>to</strong> Necessity, <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r of<br />

invention. We, as human beings, frame<br />

ourselves, our inner lives, our his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

and traditions, our sorrows and follies,<br />

in <strong>the</strong> context of language. In <strong>the</strong><br />

Navajo culture, a child does not acquire<br />

human status until he or she masters<br />

<strong>the</strong> art of speaking a language.<br />

New Mexico, a veritable Wonderland<br />

gumbo of legends, tales, and<br />

parables, seasons its canon with accents<br />

and spices rooted in <strong>the</strong> Native and<br />

Hispanic cultures. The region itself seems<br />

a gateway <strong>to</strong> “o<strong>the</strong>rness,” a breeding<br />

ground for metaphor and myth, or sacred<br />

placeholder for fugitive voices. Apache,<br />

Navajo and Pueblo mythology chronicle<br />

an emergence from underworlds in<strong>to</strong><br />

this world: a “middle place” or “middle<br />

world.” The Acoma creation myth tells of<br />

two female humans, born underground in<br />

Shipapu, and <strong>the</strong>ir ascent from <strong>the</strong> darkness<br />

below <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> lighted world above.<br />

This, perhaps, is what s<strong>to</strong>rytelling is at<br />

its core: a bridge between worlds, or an<br />

illuminating <strong>to</strong>rch being passed from one<br />

generation <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> next. Through words<br />

communion is achieved, and a sense of<br />

discovery renewed.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> light of <strong>the</strong> fire<br />

“Our ances<strong>to</strong>rs have been telling s<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir children since 1598, when <strong>the</strong> first<br />

Spanish families settled along <strong>the</strong> Chama<br />

River in Nor<strong>the</strong>rn New Mexico. A<br />

400-year-old tradition began during that<br />

first harsh winter, when <strong>the</strong> warmth of rustic<br />

hearths beckoned and warmed <strong>the</strong> settlers<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong>ir first winters. It was many<br />

years ago while growing up in Penasco, NM<br />

. . . that a seed for s<strong>to</strong>rytelling was planted in<br />

me. The fondest memories I have from my<br />

childhood are when my mo<strong>the</strong>r would relate<br />

cuen<strong>to</strong>s, or s<strong>to</strong>ries, <strong>to</strong> us.”<br />

– Paulette Atencio,<br />

Cuen<strong>to</strong>s from Long Ago<br />

A cold winter’s night and crackling<br />

fireplace have set <strong>the</strong> domestic stage for<br />

many a s<strong>to</strong>ryteller. Through voice and<br />

gesture alone, family elders would guide<br />

children in<strong>to</strong> worlds of enchantment,<br />

intrigue, and terror. Juan B. Rael, a native<br />

of Arroyo Hondo, and <strong>the</strong> author of<br />

Cuentes Epsañoles de Colorado y Nuevo<br />

México, recalled: “An old neighbor of<br />

ours, <strong>the</strong> aunt of one of my playmates,<br />

was a gifted s<strong>to</strong>ryteller, and my friend and<br />

I would often listen <strong>to</strong> her fascinating s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

about giants, witches, thieves, rogues,<br />

and clever animals. It was a special treat<br />

<strong>to</strong> listen <strong>to</strong> her during <strong>the</strong> long winter<br />

nights as she sat by <strong>the</strong> fireplace, which<br />

dimly illuminated her large but scantily<br />

furnished living room. The leaping shadows<br />

on <strong>the</strong> whitewashed walls, produced<br />

by <strong>the</strong> flickering flames in <strong>the</strong> hearth,<br />

added a mysterious background <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

s<strong>to</strong>ries we heard…” Riddles were ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

part of <strong>the</strong> Hispanic s<strong>to</strong>rytelling tradition,<br />

with children being challenged <strong>to</strong> find<br />

<strong>the</strong> answer. One example: I went in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

country and found someone who crossed<br />

himself. He is a saint, yet he is not a<br />

Christian. Who might it be? (Answer:<br />

The Holy Thistle.)<br />

In Zuni culture, tales, or telapnaawe,<br />

were <strong>to</strong>ld in winter, <strong>to</strong> avoid attracting<br />

snakes and snake-bite, and generally<br />

<strong>to</strong>ld at night, lest <strong>the</strong> days be shortened.<br />

“The ability <strong>to</strong> create <strong>the</strong> appearance<br />

of reality is clearly <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

measure of <strong>the</strong> individual Zuni narra<strong>to</strong>r’s<br />

skill and success, ranking above such<br />

considerations as accuracy or memory or<br />

size of reper<strong>to</strong>ire. Ashuwa (a Zuni male)<br />

said: ‘Some are good s<strong>to</strong>rytellers not just<br />

because <strong>the</strong>y may know <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry, but<br />

because of <strong>the</strong>ir voices and gestures, and<br />

<strong>the</strong>y make it exciting. Some tell it like<br />

<strong>the</strong>y were actually part of it, had witnessed<br />

it.’”<br />

– Dennis Tedlock,<br />

“The Ethnography of Tale-Telling<br />

at Zuni”<br />

Her Majesty, <strong>the</strong> Moon<br />

The moon, as <strong>the</strong> cosmic pope of<br />

lovers, lunatics and werewolves, has<br />

been a popular lead in many s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

and legends throughout his<strong>to</strong>ry. In<br />

1894, trailblazing writer, pho<strong>to</strong>grapher,<br />

adventurer, and anthropologist, Charles<br />

Lummis, who claimed <strong>to</strong> have invented<br />

<strong>the</strong> term “Southwest,” collected s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Isleta Pueblo people and published<br />

<strong>the</strong>m in a book titled The Man<br />

Who Married <strong>the</strong> Moon. The s<strong>to</strong>ry of<br />

Continued on page 17<br />

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16


TALE-SPINNING – Continued from page 15<br />

<strong>the</strong> same name, which appears in <strong>the</strong><br />

collection, tells of <strong>the</strong> powerful and<br />

beloved Nah-chu-r´u-chu (“The Bluish<br />

Light of Dawn”) and his marriage <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Moon, a beautiful maiden, blind in one<br />

eye, who at that time dwelled among<br />

<strong>the</strong> people and not in <strong>the</strong> sky. After<br />

<strong>the</strong> Moon is drowned and buried by <strong>the</strong><br />

jealous Yellow-Corn-Maiden sisters, a<br />

heartbroken Nah-chu-r´u-chu dispatches<br />

different animals <strong>to</strong> find his missing<br />

wife. It is Turkey-buzzard who spies a<br />

mound, covered with all <strong>the</strong> different<br />

flowers in <strong>the</strong> world, in <strong>the</strong> middle of a<br />

cot<strong>to</strong>nwood forest, and through a single<br />

tiny white flower Nah-chu-r´u-chu<br />

resurrects <strong>the</strong> Moon, who punishes <strong>the</strong><br />

Yellow-corn-maidens by turning <strong>the</strong>m<br />

in<strong>to</strong> snakes.<br />

A poetic take on why <strong>the</strong> Moon has<br />

one eye is covered in a parable known<br />

throughout various Pueblo cultures. The<br />

Trues, <strong>the</strong> unseen spirits behind creation,<br />

made <strong>the</strong> Sun, <strong>the</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>r, and <strong>the</strong> Moon,<br />

<strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r, who were <strong>to</strong> keep watch over<br />

<strong>the</strong> world, The problem was both <strong>the</strong> Sun<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Moon, with four luminous eyes<br />

between <strong>the</strong>m, kept <strong>the</strong> world aglow in<br />

light, and without dark <strong>the</strong> people did<br />

not know when <strong>to</strong> rest, <strong>the</strong> birds flew<br />

non-s<strong>to</strong>p, <strong>the</strong> flowers stayed open day and<br />

night. The Trues decided <strong>to</strong> put out one<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Sun’s eyes, but <strong>the</strong> Moon offered<br />

her eye in place of her husband’s, and<br />

with partial blindness came <strong>the</strong> respite of<br />

night. And, as <strong>the</strong> tale concludes, “But<br />

she who first had <strong>the</strong> love of children,<br />

and paid for <strong>the</strong>m with pain as mo<strong>the</strong>r’s<br />

pay, she did not grow ugly by her sacrifice.<br />

Nay, she is lovelier than ever… For <strong>the</strong><br />

Trues are good <strong>to</strong> her, and gave her in <strong>the</strong><br />

place of <strong>the</strong> bloom of girlhood <strong>the</strong> beauty<br />

that is only in <strong>the</strong> faces of mo<strong>the</strong>rs.”<br />

Bewitched, Bo<strong>the</strong>red,<br />

Bewildered<br />

When it comes <strong>to</strong> supernatural<br />

terror, <strong>the</strong> reigning queen in Hispanic<br />

folklore is La Llorona. Her ambiguous<br />

origins might go back <strong>to</strong> 16th century<br />

Mexico City, or could be <strong>the</strong> offshoot of<br />

Die Weisse Frau, or “<strong>the</strong> White Lady,” an<br />

old German legend about a peasant girl<br />

who falls in love with and is abandoned<br />

by a young aris<strong>to</strong>crat, murders her bastard<br />

children, goes insane and dies a violent<br />

death, only <strong>to</strong> return as a malignant<br />

specter. Traditionally, <strong>the</strong>re are three<br />

incarnations of La Llorona that appear<br />

in Hispanic tales—<strong>the</strong> siren, <strong>the</strong> grieving<br />

woman, and <strong>the</strong> woman who poses a<br />

threat <strong>to</strong> children—with her signature<br />

weeping or wailing providing <strong>the</strong> eerie<br />

soundtrack <strong>to</strong> this “living” horror movie.<br />

Back in <strong>the</strong> day, parents in Hispanic<br />

families employed <strong>the</strong> “phan<strong>to</strong>m threat”<br />

of La Llorona <strong>to</strong> keep <strong>the</strong>ir children from<br />

playing in <strong>the</strong> arroyos and acequias, two<br />

of her favorite haunts.<br />

El Santuario de Chimayo (<strong>the</strong><br />

Sanctuary of Chimayo), renowned for<br />

its healing “holy dirt,” is also <strong>the</strong> home<br />

<strong>to</strong> a miraculously light traveler: El San<strong>to</strong><br />

Niño de A<strong>to</strong>cha (The Holy Child of<br />

A<strong>to</strong>cha). He is also called San<strong>to</strong> Niño<br />

Perdido (The Lost Holy Child) because,<br />

as <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry goes, he departs <strong>the</strong> church<br />

at night and travels <strong>the</strong> countryside <strong>to</strong><br />

perform miracles. In aiding and abetting<br />

<strong>the</strong> intrepid miracle-worker, villagers and<br />

visi<strong>to</strong>rs leave baby shoes at <strong>the</strong> feet of El<br />

Niño, <strong>to</strong> replace his “worn-out” shoes.<br />

The Best Medicine<br />

In <strong>the</strong> late 1950s and early 1960s,<br />

during a prolific period of space exploration<br />

by <strong>the</strong> Russians and <strong>the</strong> Americans,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Newekwe clowns of <strong>the</strong> Zuni pueblo<br />

incorporated “space burlesque” in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

performance. Barbara Tedlock states in<br />

her essay, “Boundaries of Belief” that<br />

<strong>the</strong> clowns’ goal was “<strong>to</strong> startle and even<br />

shock <strong>the</strong> audience in order <strong>to</strong> get a<br />

response, perhaps a sudden laugh, or at<br />

least a gasp of disapproval. In doing so<br />

<strong>the</strong>y ‘get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> people,’ <strong>the</strong>y ‘open <strong>the</strong>m,’<br />

and release <strong>the</strong>m from internal idle<br />

thoughts or worries… The space program<br />

was a source of general (and one might<br />

say visceral) worry at Zuni, and so… for<br />

more than ten years <strong>the</strong> clowns trivialized,<br />

folklorized, and negated both its<br />

religious threat and its scientific seriousness.”<br />

Clowns function as powerful<br />

medicine men and shamans in many<br />

Native American cultures, as ritual healing<br />

takes place beneath <strong>the</strong> mirth and<br />

inspired madness. If Voltaire was right<br />

when he said, “God is a comedian playing<br />

<strong>to</strong> an audience <strong>to</strong>o afraid <strong>to</strong> laugh,” <strong>the</strong>n<br />

clowns might be regarded as masked<br />

angels dispensing <strong>the</strong> best, and most<br />

necessary medicine.<br />

A four-legged Harlequin that<br />

figures prominently in Native American<br />

legends and lore is Coyote, whose exploits<br />

were once explained by a Navajo<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ryteller, Yellowman, <strong>to</strong> author, Barre<br />

Toelken: “Why does Coyote do all those<br />

things, foolish on one occasion, good<br />

on ano<strong>the</strong>r, terrible on ano<strong>the</strong>r? ‘If he<br />

did not do all those things, <strong>the</strong>n those<br />

things would not be possible in <strong>the</strong><br />

world.’ Yellowman thus sees Coyote less<br />

as a Trickster per se and more as an<br />

enabler whose actions, good or bad,<br />

Continued on page 27<br />

17


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18


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Springs<br />

WOLF CREEK<br />

SKI aAREA<br />

•<br />

South<br />

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COLORADO<br />

NEW MEXICO<br />

Chama •<br />

RED RIVER<br />

SKI AREA<br />

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•<br />

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aFOREST XC<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Southwest<br />

You can ride almost anywhere in <strong>the</strong> world. But<br />

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wildlife and wilderness, art and his<strong>to</strong>ry. The landscape is<br />

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Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls, cruisers,<br />

and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks.<br />

Treks in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> backcountry are beautiful and boss.<br />

Outside our quaint mountain <strong>to</strong>wns you’ll discover<br />

fresh pockets of adventure and feel this winter<br />

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And at day’s end, when your thighs are screaming,<br />

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MAP SHOWS APPROXIMATE LOCATIONS. DISTANCES NOT TO SCALE.<br />

PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / DMR<br />

19


Flanked by sacred wilderness,<br />

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multicultural vibes, <strong>the</strong>re’s<br />

a reason Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley sits<br />

in <strong>the</strong> center of New<br />

Mexico’s Enchanted Circle.<br />

Located 50 miles south of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Colorado border, Taos<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Valley is a mystical<br />

haven for 300+ inches of<br />

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and some of <strong>the</strong> most<br />

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And with nearly half of all<br />

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and intermediates, its unpolished<br />

charm and cheeky<br />

mountain rituals welcome<br />

TAOS SKI VALLEY<br />

anyone with a spirit of adventure.<br />

Our new base area<br />

developments will include<br />

a new hotel, retail space,<br />

equipment rentals, restaurant<br />

and spa. TSV’s Ernie<br />

Blake Snowsport School<br />

is still world-class, <strong>the</strong><br />

terrain park is deluxe, and a<br />

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continues its commitment<br />

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mountain-wide<br />

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interactive trail map online.<br />

skitaos.org<br />

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When <strong>the</strong> snow flies, Angel<br />

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This year, all ski areas<br />

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Know <strong>the</strong> code.<br />

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20


PHOTO: JASON LOMBARD, COURTESY WOLF CREEK SKI AREA<br />

WOLF CREEK SKI AREA<br />

After a summer of frequent<br />

rains<strong>to</strong>rms, Wolf Creek is focusing<br />

on maintaining safety<br />

by removing hazard trees<br />

and transplanting healthy<br />

ones, and by improving<br />

avalanche hazard reduction<br />

with our new Gazex and<br />

Avi Blasters which work<br />

by generating powerful<br />

shock waves, not explosions,<br />

<strong>to</strong> release dangerous<br />

snow buildup. Our biggest<br />

on-mountain project is<br />

completing <strong>the</strong> Race Hutch<br />

building with power for race<br />

timing equipment, cameras<br />

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area, and s<strong>to</strong>rage for race<br />

gear. Improvements are also<br />

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snowboard rental department<br />

with <strong>the</strong> introduction<br />

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Wolf Creek moves in<strong>to</strong> digitizing<br />

rentals and ski school<br />

reservations both on-site<br />

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79) get <strong>the</strong>ir own lift tickets<br />

and season passes this year,<br />

as well as specially-priced<br />

clinics and Local Appreciation<br />

days. Wolf Creek’s eight<br />

lifts service over 1,600 acres<br />

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Last year – chalet upgrades,<br />

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ride and dinner <strong>to</strong>urs, new<br />

snow cat, more snow guns.<br />

This year – we’ve cooked<br />

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park rats out <strong>the</strong>re. We <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

our Battleship <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> chop<br />

shop and came out with an<br />

urban down box, a flat down<br />

box, and a teepee. We’ve<br />

added even more snow guns<br />

and new au<strong>to</strong>mation <strong>to</strong> our<br />

snowmaking system, and<br />

new all-day classes for kids<br />

RED RIVER SKI AREA<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Youth <strong>Ski</strong> Center. Our<br />

new e-commerce website is<br />

still <strong>the</strong> hot ticket: print out<br />

<strong>the</strong> barcode and give it <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> ski techs <strong>to</strong> scan and get<br />

you geared up. Or check out<br />

<strong>the</strong> 24-hour ticket kiosks.<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> and snowboard programs<br />

are available for kids and<br />

adults. After riding, <strong>the</strong>re’s<br />

tubing, evening rail jams<br />

and <strong>to</strong>rchlight parades.<br />

For events online:<br />

redriverskiarea.com<br />

575-754-2233<br />

ENCHANTED FOREST XC<br />

enchantedforestxc.com<br />

800-966-9381 575-754-6112<br />

21


22<br />

A <strong>to</strong>p family-friendly resort,<br />

Purga<strong>to</strong>ry at Durango<br />

Mountain has 91 trails,<br />

five terrain parks and more<br />

than 1,360 skiable acres.<br />

With 10 chairlifts and rarely<br />

any lines, it’s simple <strong>to</strong> zip<br />

around <strong>the</strong> mountain and<br />

enjoy <strong>the</strong> spectacular scenery<br />

of <strong>the</strong> San Juan Mountains.<br />

Dog sledding, snow tubing,<br />

Nordic <strong>skiing</strong>, snowshoeing,<br />

horse-drawn sleigh rides,<br />

snowbiking, backcountry<br />

<strong>skiing</strong>, snowmobiling and<br />

more. This year, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry’s<br />

Legends Lift 8 has been<br />

replaced with a new highspeed<br />

detachable quad,<br />

almost a mile in length and<br />

covering about 1,500 vertical<br />

PHOTO: COURTESY DMR<br />

PURGATORY at<br />

DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT<br />

feet, transporting skiers <strong>to</strong><br />

Purga<strong>to</strong>ry’s summit in less<br />

than five minutes. And two<br />

brand new trails provide<br />

speedy access. The<br />

Purga<strong>to</strong>ry - Sipapu - Pajari<strong>to</strong><br />

- Arizona Snowbowl<br />

collective is investing $10<br />

million in improvements<br />

this year, including three<br />

new quads, more trails,<br />

and more and better<br />

snowmaking. Power Pass<br />

season passes provide<br />

unlimited access <strong>to</strong> all four<br />

resorts with a combined<br />

3,088 acres, 28 lifts,<br />

over 200 trails and 13<br />

terrain parks.<br />

skipurg.com<br />

800-525-0892<br />

Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort is building<br />

its first new quad chairlift this<br />

summer, <strong>the</strong> third new lift in<br />

less than five years. The new<br />

quad serves popular beginner<br />

and intermediate trails,<br />

giving beginners an easier<br />

way <strong>to</strong> practice <strong>the</strong>ir skills<br />

before progressing <strong>to</strong> more<br />

advanced terrain. A new<br />

trail will be added directly<br />

under <strong>the</strong> lift, and mountain<br />

crews will also complete <strong>the</strong><br />

much-anticipated Howdy<br />

Extension, adding nearly five<br />

acres of skiable terrain. New<br />

snowmaking infrastructure<br />

is being added for Sipapu’s<br />

staple “first <strong>to</strong> open, last<br />

<strong>to</strong> close” trails, including a<br />

new snow gun and a second<br />

SIPAPU SKI RESORT<br />

booster pump at Midway,<br />

allowing <strong>the</strong> mountain team<br />

<strong>to</strong> cover its slopes with more<br />

snow in less time. Also this<br />

year, Pajari<strong>to</strong> Mountain of<br />

Los Alamos, New Mexico,<br />

expanded its water system<br />

and <strong>the</strong>y’re on pace <strong>to</strong><br />

collect more water than<br />

ever before, which means<br />

more snow than ever before.<br />

There’s also a new trail on<br />

<strong>the</strong> west side of <strong>the</strong> mountain<br />

at Pajari<strong>to</strong>, providing a<br />

gentle slope for beginners.<br />

For more on both resorts:<br />

sipapunm.com<br />

800-587-2240<br />

skipajari<strong>to</strong>.com<br />

505 662 5725


SKI APACHE<br />

Boasting over 300 days of<br />

sunshine each year,<br />

Mescalero, New Mexico’s<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Apache – <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />

sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost ski resort –<br />

offers <strong>the</strong> best warm-wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

powder <strong>skiing</strong> in <strong>the</strong><br />

world with snowmaking on<br />

33% of <strong>the</strong> mountain. The<br />

slopes offer a mix of wide<br />

beginner slopes, <strong>to</strong>ugh bump<br />

runs, a huge bowl, nice<br />

cruising runs and a terrain<br />

park with jumps, tubes and<br />

rails. <strong>Ski</strong> Apache sprawls out<br />

under <strong>the</strong> 12,000-plus foot<br />

peak of Sierra Blanca.<br />

The Adventure Center<br />

offers full days of fun activities<br />

for young skiers 4-12;<br />

we have plenty of group<br />

and private family learning<br />

programs. And we offer<br />

Sisters on Snow for women,<br />

focusing on a supportive and<br />

relaxed learning experience.<br />

Or you can kick it on a<br />

trikke or rip down <strong>the</strong><br />

tubing hill. You can even<br />

take a break and hit <strong>the</strong> slot<br />

machines slopeside at The<br />

Inn of The Mountain Gods.<br />

For more about ski package<br />

deals, <strong>the</strong> mountain,<br />

and events online:<br />

skiapache.com<br />

575-464-3600<br />

calling all<br />

THRILL<br />

SEEKERS<br />

(and deal seekers, <strong>to</strong>o)<br />

DEEP FREEZE<br />

weekDAY package<br />

SUN-THURS<br />

November 29-March 3<br />

$529 *<br />

RATE CODE: DPFRZWD<br />

BOOK TODAY WITH<br />

CAPITAN<br />

$639 *<br />

APACHE BOWL<br />

$1699 *<br />

weekEND package<br />

FRI & SAT OR SAT & SUN<br />

November 29-February 28<br />

BOOK TODAY WITH<br />

RATE CODE: CAPWE<br />

3-DAY package FOR 4<br />

THURS-SAT OR SAT-MON<br />

November 29-February 29<br />

BOOK TODAY WITH<br />

RATE CODE: APCBWL<br />

To book your stay <strong>to</strong>day<br />

call 1-800-545-9011.<br />

See website for<br />

restrictions and details.<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Apache logo lockup positive read with stroke on dark background.<br />

1-800-545-9011 | Mescalero, NM near Ruidoso<br />

23


urgent medical care<br />

Lesa Fraker, MD PhD FACEP<br />

Owner/Medical Direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Board Certifi ed Emergency Medicine Physician<br />

care you can count on<br />

No appointment necessary<br />

7 days a week<br />

Local<br />

Appreciation<br />

Days<br />

2015-<strong>2016</strong><br />

$43 Adults<br />

$26 Seniors<br />

$24 Children<br />

November<br />

11, 18, 30<br />

December<br />

2,9<br />

January<br />

10, 27<br />

February<br />

7, 24<br />

March<br />

2, 27, 30<br />

April<br />

3<br />

Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

www.wolfcreekski.com<br />

1-800-SKI-WOLF<br />

Powder<br />

Perfect<br />

All ages welcome<br />

Care for most illnesses & injuries<br />

Colds and coughs<br />

Sprains and broken bones<br />

X-rays, prescription medications<br />

& lab tests on site<br />

Oxygen & IV Therapies<br />

for Altitude Sickness<br />

ORGANIC<br />

SUPERFOODS<br />

SERVED BY THE BOTTLE<br />

Most insurances accepted<br />

including Medicare,<br />

Blue Cross Blue Shield,<br />

Aetna, & Humana<br />

red river<br />

200A Pioneer Road<br />

575.754.1773<br />

angel fire<br />

FA-1 <strong>Ski</strong> Patrol Building<br />

575.377.1805<br />

The ONLY certified<br />

Urgent Care Clinics<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Enchanted Circle<br />

ultimed.com<br />

rawtaos.com<br />

rawtaos@gmail.com<br />

575 741 0259<br />

818 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos<br />

Juice<br />

Cleanses<br />

Nutmylks<br />

Wheatgrass<br />

Smoothies<br />

Teas<br />

24


Alpine Lodges<br />

FIRESIDE INN & CABINS<br />

Modern, deluxe one and two bedroom fully-equipped<br />

cabins with room <strong>to</strong> roam<br />

on ten acres along <strong>the</strong> San<br />

Juan River. Located on <strong>the</strong><br />

east side of Pagosa, close<br />

<strong>to</strong> Hot Springs, <strong>to</strong>ward Wolf<br />

Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area and national<br />

forest X-country ski trails.<br />

Private river access and fishing (catch and release) on<br />

our property. Individual living area with gas fireplace,<br />

bedroom/s, kitchen, bathroom. Covered porches with<br />

grills and a Hot Tub! Open year-round.<br />

888.264.9204 970.264.9204<br />

1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, CO<br />

www.firesidecabins.com<br />

EL PUEBLO LODGE<br />

Come stay at <strong>the</strong> edge of <strong>to</strong>wn, at <strong>the</strong> edge of everything!<br />

Southwest charm with early Taos<br />

architecture. Complimentary wifi<br />

and HBO. Heated, seasonal pool,<br />

year-round hot tub. Continental<br />

breakfast each morning, fresh<br />

baked cookies each afternoon.<br />

Pet-friendly. Three blocks from his<strong>to</strong>ric Taos Plaza; 18<br />

miles from Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain<br />

Casino two miles north. See our website for specials<br />

and packages.<br />

800.433.9612 575.758.8700<br />

412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM<br />

www.elpueblolodge.com<br />

KACHINA LODGE and<br />

MEETINGS CENTER in Taos<br />

Four blocks from <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ric Taos Plaza, shops, galleries<br />

and museums. Full-service hotel.<br />

Includes full hot breakfast,<br />

leisure bar/lounge with pool tables,<br />

video games, and coffee<br />

shop. Southwestern dining. Outdoor<br />

seasonally heated pool, hot<br />

tub, and free high speed internet. Nightly Indian dances<br />

May-Oc<strong>to</strong>ber. Near Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable<br />

prices, friendly service staff.<br />

800.522.4462 575.758.2275<br />

www.kachinalodge.com<br />

413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM<br />

TAOS BED & BREAKFAST INNS<br />

Enjoy your Southwestern adventure even more when<br />

you begin and end each day<br />

at one of our 16 Taos Bed<br />

and Breakfast Inns. Exceptional<br />

food, well-appointed<br />

rooms and gifted innkeepers<br />

who know just how <strong>to</strong> help<br />

you create memories of Taos,<br />

which will keep you coming back for years <strong>to</strong> come. For<br />

more information and <strong>to</strong> book online:<br />

www.taosbandbinns.com<br />

25


Name that run<br />

COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT<br />

GAK STONN<br />

M<br />

ost of us stand a<strong>to</strong>p ski runs such<br />

as Niños Heroes (one of <strong>the</strong> first<br />

few double blacks of <strong>the</strong> ridge in Taos<br />

<strong>Ski</strong> Valley) and think <strong>to</strong> ourselves –<br />

“How do I drop in and not die?” But<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are those few, possibly feeling <strong>the</strong><br />

effects of oxygen deprivation, who think<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>mselves – “Who were <strong>the</strong>se tiny<br />

heroes, and what made <strong>the</strong>m so rad?”<br />

This article is for <strong>the</strong> latter group.<br />

Well, oxygen-deprived double<br />

diamond ripper, <strong>the</strong> Niños Heroes were<br />

a group of six young cadets at <strong>the</strong> Mexico<br />

Military Academy who were killed<br />

defending <strong>the</strong> academy from invading<br />

American forces during <strong>the</strong> Mexican-<br />

American war.<br />

Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley’s founder, Ernie<br />

Blake, was an intelligence officer during<br />

WWII. He apparently had a fascination<br />

with martyrs such as <strong>the</strong> Niños<br />

Heros that shows in his ski run names.<br />

Stauffenberg, Oster, Treskow, and Fabian<br />

are all named after people who tried <strong>to</strong><br />

assassinate Hitler. Hidalgo was named<br />

after Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

martyr of <strong>the</strong> Mexican American<br />

26<br />

war. Winkelreid is Arthur von Winkelreid,<br />

a Swiss martyr from a Hapsburg<br />

conflict. Taos even has a run called<br />

Pat<strong>to</strong>n, after General Pat<strong>to</strong>n – Ernie<br />

Blake’s general during <strong>the</strong> war.<br />

Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area has a bit of<br />

a <strong>the</strong>me as well, albeit less violent,<br />

but still explosive. Many of <strong>the</strong> runs<br />

are throwbacks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn’s mining<br />

roots. Some are obvious, with names<br />

like Powder Keg, Prospec<strong>to</strong>r’s Lane,<br />

Tailings, and Miners Alley. The less<br />

obvious are names of actual mines in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Red River area – Golden Treasure,<br />

Buffalo, and Purkapile. Lin<strong>to</strong>n’s Leap<br />

is named after <strong>the</strong> owner’s son and <strong>the</strong><br />

family that owns <strong>the</strong> ski area, Lin<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Judycki. It is one of <strong>the</strong> steepest runs<br />

at Red River, and looks as if <strong>the</strong> world<br />

drops out from <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p.<br />

Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort developed a Bambi<br />

<strong>the</strong>me, but it was not planned. Flower<br />

starts out as a gentle green but <strong>the</strong>n<br />

quickly turns in<strong>to</strong> a black diamond, so it<br />

was known as a “little stinker” – a thickly<br />

veiled reference <strong>to</strong> a scene in Bambi.<br />

Sipapu <strong>the</strong>n named ano<strong>the</strong>r run Thumper<br />

after a family of rabbits were found<br />

while cutting <strong>the</strong> run. The classic ski run<br />

name Bambi was used for a gentle green.<br />

The trend was recognized, and keeping<br />

with tradition, Sipapu is opening a new<br />

run for <strong>the</strong> upcoming season and calling<br />

it Faline.<br />

The Bolander family (Sipapu’s<br />

owners) also has a tradition of naming<br />

runs after family dogs, many of which<br />

are buried near <strong>the</strong> runs <strong>the</strong>y are named<br />

after as a way <strong>to</strong> commemorate <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Sassafras and Razmatazz were both<br />

family Airedales, Candi and Brandy<br />

were St. Bernards, and Howdy was a<br />

Springer Spaniel.<br />

Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area, like Sipapu,<br />

also has a dog <strong>the</strong>me. The dog chutes –<br />

Zia, Chi, Jiri, Eliott and Max’s, are all<br />

named after Avalanche Dogs that have<br />

served Wolf Creek. Patina was named<br />

after an Airedale, Bernard, and Mastiff<br />

mix that belonged <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pitcher family<br />

(<strong>the</strong> Wolf Creek owners), who actually<br />

called her Tina. Rockin’ Robin was<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r family dog, a black lab with<br />

huge paws who liked <strong>to</strong> race <strong>the</strong> family


COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT<br />

ing Home, Humpty Dumpty, and Heck<br />

No. This is no mistake – <strong>the</strong> H runs<br />

were named in honor of Roy H. Lebus,<br />

<strong>the</strong> original developer of <strong>the</strong> resort.<br />

Minder Binder was originally called<br />

Jaspers, after Jasper Hicks, a ski patrol<br />

direc<strong>to</strong>r who was killed in a mo<strong>to</strong>rcycle<br />

accident in <strong>the</strong> 70s. Minder Binder was<br />

not actually named after <strong>the</strong> Catch-22<br />

character, but a bar in Tempe, AZ.<br />

Free Flight stirs up feelings of a<br />

wide open, fast run, devoid of o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

skiers. But it is actually named after <strong>the</strong><br />

American Jazz Ensemble, who played<br />

at <strong>the</strong> annual Music From Angel Fire<br />

festival. The s<strong>to</strong>ry goes that Free Flight<br />

agreed <strong>to</strong> make a song called Angel Fire,<br />

and Angel Fire agreed <strong>to</strong> name a run<br />

after <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

So <strong>the</strong> next time you are about <strong>to</strong><br />

drop in<strong>to</strong> a run – and you start <strong>to</strong> wonder<br />

why on earth anyone would choose<br />

this name for a run – <strong>the</strong>re is probably<br />

more his<strong>to</strong>ry underfoot than you think.<br />

Gustav Herold is a Colorado-based writer<br />

and skier, who grew up in Taos, NM.<br />

TALE-SPINNING – Continued from page 17<br />

kids up <strong>the</strong> mountain as <strong>the</strong>y rode <strong>the</strong><br />

Treasure lift – and usually beat <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Wolf Creek, like most ski areas, has<br />

some family-owned references as well.<br />

Pitcher’s gate was named because it was<br />

<strong>the</strong> favorite route of <strong>the</strong> original owner,<br />

Kingsberry Pitcher, when he was headed<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> waterfall area. Blueberry Hill is<br />

not actually named for <strong>the</strong> fruit, but<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> first name of one of Kingsberry’s<br />

grandchildren.<br />

Angel Fire has a few mining references<br />

as well, seen in trail names like<br />

Nitro, De<strong>to</strong>na<strong>to</strong>r, Sluice Box (also a run<br />

at Red River), and Prospec<strong>to</strong>r. Prospec<strong>to</strong>r,<br />

however, was originally called<br />

Tucker Doubt, a reference <strong>to</strong> a bet made<br />

by Ray Tucker and Bill Burgess. Tucker<br />

was a former GM of Angel Fire Resort.<br />

Burgess is a long-time instruc<strong>to</strong>r and NM<br />

ski hall of fame inductee.The bet was on<br />

<strong>the</strong> length of time it would take for<br />

Tucker <strong>to</strong> cut <strong>the</strong> run, creating <strong>the</strong><br />

fantastic double entendre, Tucker Doubt.<br />

You also may notice that Angel Fire<br />

has many runs that start with <strong>the</strong> letter<br />

H, such as Hell’s Bells, Highway, Headbring<br />

certain actions and ideas in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

field of possibility, a model who symbolizes<br />

abstractions in terms of real entities.”<br />

Then <strong>the</strong>re are tales stretched <strong>to</strong><br />

car<strong>to</strong>onish heights, yarns spun with freewheeling<br />

flair. The tall tale, or “windy,”<br />

provided <strong>the</strong> hot air that gave rise <strong>to</strong><br />

many Wild West folk icons, such as Pecos<br />

Bill, Little Joe <strong>the</strong> Wrangler, and Billy<br />

<strong>the</strong> Kid. Ga<strong>the</strong>ring round <strong>the</strong> campfire <strong>to</strong><br />

swap s<strong>to</strong>ries was an integral part of life on<br />

<strong>the</strong> range. In Jack Thorp’s 1926 collection,<br />

Tales of <strong>the</strong> Chuck Wagon, he wrote:<br />

“It had been an old established cus<strong>to</strong>m…<br />

that <strong>the</strong> men working on <strong>the</strong> roundup<br />

should meet on <strong>the</strong> first night at <strong>the</strong><br />

chuck-wagon – i.e., <strong>the</strong> grub-wagon. Every<br />

man <strong>the</strong>re was obliged ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> tell a<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ry, sing a song, or do a dance. Anyone<br />

refusing was sure <strong>to</strong> get a dose of <strong>the</strong> leggings,<br />

a punishment administered by <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r punchers, several of whom would<br />

grab <strong>the</strong> offender and stretch him, <strong>to</strong>es<br />

and face down, across <strong>the</strong> wagon-<strong>to</strong>ngue,<br />

while ano<strong>the</strong>r puncher applied <strong>the</strong> lea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

leggings or chaps. Such treatment, you<br />

can be sure, usually elicited a response in<br />

<strong>the</strong> form of song, s<strong>to</strong>ry, or dance.”<br />

To be continued<br />

There are no real endings <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries,<br />

so long as new generations of s<strong>to</strong>rytellers,<br />

from all walks of life, lend <strong>the</strong>ir voices <strong>to</strong><br />

what is a mythically rich and his<strong>to</strong>rically<br />

broad love letter. We, as humans, are<br />

engaged in a never-ending courtship with<br />

<strong>the</strong> Great Mystery, a dance that time and<br />

again sparks <strong>the</strong> invitation: Let me tell you<br />

a s<strong>to</strong>ry….<br />

John Biscello is <strong>the</strong> author of <strong>the</strong> awardwinning<br />

novel Broken Land, A Brooklyn<br />

Tale, and a collection of s<strong>to</strong>ries, Freeze Tag.<br />

His new novel Raking <strong>the</strong> Dust (Zharmae<br />

Press) is primarily set in Taos, where he has<br />

lived for <strong>the</strong> past 13 years.<br />

27


Time <strong>to</strong> Dine<br />

TAOS<br />

BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent<br />

Street, Taos. 575-758-5787. A local favorite<br />

with menu selections <strong>to</strong> satisfy every palate.<br />

Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a<br />

year-round heated patio and outdoor terrace.<br />

Omelettes, eggs Benedict, gourmet French<br />

<strong>to</strong>ast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and<br />

homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials,<br />

chicken or beef burri<strong>to</strong> and tamales plates.<br />

Vegetarian and vegan friendly. Beer & wine.<br />

Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday<br />

brunch. BentStreetDeli.com<br />

DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2<br />

block N of Taos Plaza in <strong>the</strong> His<strong>to</strong>ric Taos<br />

Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, casual dining in<br />

a his<strong>to</strong>ric setting. Winner of Wine Specta<strong>to</strong>r’s<br />

“Best Of Award Of Excellence” for 27 consecutive<br />

years. Innovative Regional New American<br />

Cuisine using <strong>the</strong> freshest local ingredients,<br />

specializing in organic vegetables, meats<br />

and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk,<br />

trout. Homemade desserts. Lunch, dinner,<br />

weekend brunch. Reservations recommended.<br />

DocMartinsRestaurant.com<br />

EL GAMAL – Behind Taos Plaza, 112 Doña<br />

Luz. 575-613-0311. Serving conscious vegetarian<br />

Middle Eastern food, made from scratch.<br />

Hummus, falafel, baba ganoush, shakshuka,<br />

labane, dolmas. Daily specials, soups, housemade<br />

pita, desserts. Gluten-free and vegan<br />

options; Turkish coffee and espresso drinks;<br />

beer and wine. Family-friendly: kids’ playroom,<br />

pool table, free wi-fi. Patio seating. Call for<br />

takeout. Like us on Facebook. Open Monday-<br />

28<br />

Wednesday 9-5; Thursday-Saturday<br />

9-9; Sunday 11-3.<br />

FARMHOUSE CAFÉ and<br />

BAKERY – Three miles<br />

north of Taos Plaza at Overland<br />

Ranch. 575-758-LOVE<br />

(5683). Farm-<strong>to</strong>-table, serving<br />

local organic cuisine. Legendary<br />

grass-fed burger, green chile<br />

chicken stew, daily quiche.<br />

House-made soups, salads and<br />

a variety of vegetarian, vegan,<br />

and gluten-free options.<br />

Incredible assortment of artisan<br />

breads, croissants, tarts, muffins,<br />

cheesecakes, cookies and more. Specialty<br />

coffees and fresh organic grab-and-go items.<br />

Open 8 am-5 pm daily. Sunday Brunch. Ask<br />

about our new dinner hours. For full menu:<br />

FarmhouseCafeAndBakery.com<br />

GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations<br />

in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur,<br />

Taos: 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo<br />

del Pueblo Norte, El Prado: 575-737-0816.<br />

“Our secret sauce makes <strong>the</strong> difference!” Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood,<br />

Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones<br />

a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer,<br />

Wine, Agave Margaritas. Voted “Best Of Taos”<br />

2015: Best Mexican Food, Best Fast Food. Open<br />

10:30 am <strong>to</strong> 9 pm 7 days a week. Full menu online:<br />

GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com<br />

MIDTOWN MARKET, BISTRO and<br />

LOUNGE – 575-776-1680. 680 Hwy 522,<br />

Arroyo Hondo. Just 15 mins. north of Taos<br />

Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Enchanted Circle, at nor<strong>the</strong>rn crossroad<br />

shortcuts <strong>to</strong> Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley or Rio Grande<br />

hot springs. Lounge open 3 pm-close; Bistro<br />

open for dinner 4-10 pm. Best nachos in Taos,<br />

appetizers, salads, panini sandwiches, Fri<strong>to</strong> pies,<br />

green chile cheeseburgers, deli hot dogs, kids’<br />

menu. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic NM red or vegetarian chile.<br />

Friendly neighborhood bar, foosball, three pool<br />

tables. No time <strong>to</strong> dine? Visit our convenience<br />

market: quick <strong>to</strong>-go meal options, chips & dips,<br />

package liquors, beer & wine. Menus and more:<br />

Mid<strong>to</strong>wnHondo.com<br />

RAW TAOS – “Raw <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> People!” 818 C<br />

Paseo Del Pueblo Norte. 575-741-0259. The<br />

best 100% organic, vegan, raw superfoods prepared<br />

with love, fresh each morning. Taste our<br />

cold-pressed juice blends, nutmylks, smoothies,<br />

wheatgrass shots, artisan teas, warm cacao<br />

drinks, hot cider from local apples, and decadent<br />

salads. Shop our selection of essential oils,<br />

health products, and vegan gifts. Get clean<br />

with our individually tailored juice cleanse<br />

packages. Open Mon-Sat 8 am-5 pm. Check<br />

out our social media for events and <strong>to</strong> like us!<br />

facebook.com/rawtaos rawtaos.com<br />

rawtaos@gmail.com<br />

RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos<br />

Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-758-<br />

1156. A locals’ favorite. Breakfast, lunch and<br />

dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and<br />

American dishes at family-oriented prices. Gluten-free<br />

and vegetarian chiles. Burgers made<br />

with fresh local beef daily. Kid’s menu. 80% of<br />

our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take<br />

out. Open 7 days, 7 am <strong>to</strong> 8 pm.<br />

TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del<br />

Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. We start each<br />

morning with organic flour and fresh produce<br />

<strong>to</strong> create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our<br />

reclaimed adobe abode is <strong>the</strong> perfect setting for<br />

fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience<br />

where <strong>the</strong> three local cultures relax &<br />

mingle with international travelers. Open daily<br />

11 am. TaosPizzaOutback.com<br />

A LA CART – 625 Paseo del Pueblo Norte.<br />

575-758-7503. A food cart serving affordable<br />

meals inspired by street food from around<br />

<strong>the</strong> world. Garden patio or express takeout at<br />

our drive-through window. Moroccan: grilled<br />

beef, red peppers and onions served on a flat<br />

bread pita or over rice with a yogurt mint<br />

sauce. Indian: grilled chicken with a spicy peanut<br />

sauce and a chickpea, <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>, cucumber<br />

salad. Ethiopian: lentil curry with yams, peas<br />

and pota<strong>to</strong>es on rice with warm pita bread and<br />

salad, served mild, medium or spicy. Americans<br />

classics, soups, stews, salads, sandwiches,<br />

Nathan’s hot dogs. Breakfast and lunch. From<br />

$5.50 <strong>to</strong> $9.<br />

THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103 East<br />

Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. S<strong>to</strong>p by The Gorge<br />

and try our juicy burgers, handshaken margaritas,<br />

or fresh oysters – something for everyone!<br />

Enjoy The Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting<br />

on our patio overlooking <strong>the</strong> Taos Plaza. We


feature TWO happy hours: M-F, 3-5:30 pm and<br />

again from 9-10:30 pm. Check out our new wine<br />

bar and retail shop located below The Gorge:<br />

PARCHT BOTTLESHOP + BITES. 575-758-<br />

1994. A cozy place <strong>to</strong> discover unique wines +<br />

quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese<br />

& charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Come<br />

in and explore <strong>the</strong> things that excite us while<br />

you taste + shop + unwind. Visit us online at<br />

TheGorgeBarAndGrill.com and Parcht.com<br />

RED RIVER<br />

BRETT’S BISTRO – At Lifts West, 201 W.<br />

Main Street in Red River. 575-754-9959.<br />

Serving <strong>the</strong> best steaks, seafood and Rocky<br />

Mountain trout for over 25 years. Daily specials,<br />

kids’ menu. Catering available. Cold Beer and<br />

Fine Wines. Like us on Facebook. Open daily 11<br />

am–9 pm. BrettsBistro.com<br />

SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King.<br />

575-754-2971. Same great food, same great<br />

service. Celebrating our 42nd year. Steaks,<br />

salads, excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas!<br />

Specials include shrimp fajitas and quesadillas.<br />

Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome.<br />

Call for <strong>to</strong>-go orders. Open nightly 5 pm.<br />

ANGEL FIRE<br />

ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on <strong>the</strong><br />

second floor of <strong>the</strong> Mountain View Mall<br />

(next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lowe’s Valley Market). 575-377-<br />

2774. We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas,<br />

calzones, Paninis and salads. All in a fun,<br />

relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options are<br />

available. We also offer a wide selection of handcrafted<br />

beers and fine wines. Dine in or take out.<br />

Open Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour.<br />

AngelFiredPizza.com<br />

LEGENDS GRILL – Located on <strong>the</strong> second<br />

floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-<br />

377-4201. A great place for <strong>the</strong> whole family.<br />

Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers,<br />

sandwiches, salads and more. Great selection<br />

of craft beers on tap. Sports on <strong>the</strong> big screens!<br />

Open daily 4-9 pm.<br />

THE LIFT – Located in <strong>the</strong> lobby of The<br />

Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234.<br />

Serving Starbucks specialty coffees and freshly<br />

baked goods daily. The Lift dishes up delicious<br />

breakfasts and lunches, including homemade<br />

breakfast burri<strong>to</strong>s (a local favorite), breakfast<br />

sandwiches, wraps, fresh salads and homemade<br />

dressings. Beer and wine also available. Open<br />

daily 7 am-4 pm, with extended hours during<br />

peak periods.<br />

ELEMENTS at THE COUNTRY CLUB –<br />

575-377-3055. Enjoy unobstructed Sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Rocky Mountain views while your taste buds<br />

delight in world class cuisine. Featuring a full<br />

bar, an award winning wine list, private dining<br />

rooms and group event spaces. Located on <strong>the</strong><br />

upper level of <strong>the</strong> Angel Fire <strong>Country</strong> Club and<br />

open <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public year-round. Dining room is<br />

open Tuesday-Saturday 5–9 pm. Bar and lounge<br />

open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm-close. Extended<br />

hours during peak periods.<br />

H2 UPTOWN – 48 North Angel Fire Road.<br />

575-377-1200. Casual mountain style dining<br />

with an upscale experience, where you’re<br />

treated like family. Serving specially seasoned<br />

charbroiled steaks, wild game, pastas, fine wine,<br />

draft beer and much more. An unforgettable<br />

experience at an affordable price. Open for<br />

lunch and dinner. Reservations for dinner are<br />

suggested. Also visit Café Expresso 575-377-<br />

6669 for hearty breakfast and lunch.<br />

PUT ‘N GRUB – Located at <strong>the</strong> Village<br />

Center Plaza, 52 N. Angel Fire Road. 575-377-<br />

2335. A family-friendly pub with 20 craft brews<br />

on tap including a draft style root beer. Gourmet<br />

dining in a rustic and casual environment. Best<br />

steaks in <strong>to</strong>wn. Open every day during winter ski<br />

season, 5 <strong>to</strong> 9 pm.<br />

CIMARRON<br />

SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison<br />

in Cimarron. Reservations recommended.<br />

575-376-2664. Landmark on <strong>the</strong> Santa Fe<br />

Trail, <strong>the</strong> St. James has been known for its<br />

fine dining since 1872. Menu includes hand<br />

cut steaks, New Mexico favorites, homemade<br />

soups and desserts. Select from a variety of<br />

beers, fine wines or a specially-made cocktail,<br />

all served from <strong>the</strong> antique bar. New breakfast<br />

menu. Open daily 7 am–9 pm. Visit us online at<br />

ExStJames.com<br />

Cherish <strong>the</strong> spirit.<br />

Winner of Wine Specta<strong>to</strong>r’s<br />

“Best Of” Award of Excellence<br />

for 28 consecutive years<br />

LODGING, DINING &<br />

LIVE MUSIC NIGHTLY<br />

at The HISTORIC TAOS INN<br />

575.758.2233<br />

taosinn.com<br />

29


2015-<strong>2016</strong> winter<br />

Calendar<br />

Dec<br />

4 Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort opening day<br />

4-6 Race Camp & Clinic, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

10 Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley opens full time<br />

11 Enchanted Forest XC <strong>Ski</strong> opens<br />

11 Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area opens full time<br />

11 Angel Fire Resort opens<br />

11-13 International Women’s <strong>Ski</strong> Day, TSV<br />

11-13 Not Forgotten Appreciation Weekend, Sipapu<br />

12 Bent Street Bonfires, Taos<br />

12 Fun Race, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

12-13 Cumbres & Toltec Railroad Christmas Train<br />

13-18 College Days, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

15-16 “A Christmas S<strong>to</strong>ry,” Taos Mesa Brewery<br />

18-19 Public Demo Days, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

18-19 Alumbra de Questa Christmas Market, Questa<br />

19 Brew Master’s Festival, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

19 “The Magic Flute,” Taos Center for The Arts<br />

19 Grand Opening, “Legends Lift,” Purga<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

19 Dummy Gelunde & Parade, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

20 Messiah sing-along, St. James Episcopal, Taos<br />

20 Santa on <strong>the</strong> Mountain, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

24 Procession of Virgin Mary, Taos Pueblo<br />

24 Torchlight parade and fireworks, all ski areas<br />

25 Christmas Luminaria Tour, Enchanted Forest XC<br />

24-25 <strong>Ski</strong> with Santa, most ski areas<br />

25 Matachines or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo<br />

26 Terrain Park Competition 1, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

31 Torchlight parade and fireworks, all ski areas<br />

Jan<br />

1 Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo<br />

2 Gold Rush Rail Jam, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

2 Terrain Park Competition 2, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

2 <strong>Ski</strong> Bike Demo Day, Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort<br />

2-3 Never Summer Demo Days, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

3 Apache Star Races begin; ongoing<br />

3-10 College Week, Angel Fire Resort<br />

4-15 College Days, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

6 Buffalo or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo<br />

7, 14 Locals Days, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

9 NMX <strong>Ski</strong>/Snowboard Competition, AF Resort<br />

9 Ongoing ladies’ ski clinics, Wolf Creek<br />

9 Fun Race, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

9 Terrain Park Competition 3, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

10 Demo Day, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

10 Locals Benefit Day, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

10, 27 Locals Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek<br />

15-17 Winter Carnival, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

15 Snowmobile Hill Climb, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

15 <strong>Ski</strong> & Snowboard Challenge, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

15 Happy Hops Hunt, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

16 Telemark Festival, Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort<br />

16-17 Winterfest, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

17 MLK Jr. Race, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

19-24 Not Forgotten Outreach Week, TSV<br />

20 United Way Day, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

20 Ongoing School program begins; <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

22-24 USASA SW Freeride Showdown, AF Resort<br />

23 Terrain Park Competition Finals, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

23 Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu Resort<br />

23 College Day, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

23 King of <strong>the</strong> Hill Terrain Competition, Sipapu<br />

23-24 Low O2 Challenge, Enchanted Forest XC<br />

23-25 Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Angel Fire Resort<br />

24, 31 Fun Races, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

27 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

27-31 Taos Winter Wine Festival, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

30 Transworld TransAm Tour, AF Resort<br />

30 UNM Ultimate <strong>Ski</strong> Challenge, AF Resort<br />

30 Shred Cancer Benefit, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

30 Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

30 Rail Jam, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

Feb<br />

4-7 50th Anniverary Reunion, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

4-9 Mardi Gras in <strong>the</strong> Mountains, Red River<br />

4, 11 Locals Days, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

5-9 Mardi Gras Celebration, Angel Fire Resort<br />

6 World Championship Shovel Races, AF Resort<br />

7, 24 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek<br />

7 Cosmic Series Rio Hondo Rando, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

7 USASA Southwest Freeride Series, AF Resort<br />

7 Super Bowl Fun Race, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

9 Mardi Gras, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

13-15 I Heart Purg Weekend, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

14 Heart <strong>to</strong> Heart Races, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

16 Fat Tuesday Costume Day, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

17-22 Military Winter Fest, Angel Fire Resort<br />

18-21 IFSA Junior Freeride by JETA, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

20 Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort<br />

20 Judy Collins, Taos Community Audi<strong>to</strong>rium<br />

20 <strong>Ski</strong> Apache Cup and Apache Star Races<br />

20 Telemark <strong>Ski</strong> Clinic, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

20 <strong>Ski</strong> Bike Festival, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

20 Red Ball Express, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

21 Local Benefits Day, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

21, 28 College Days, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

26 Happy Hops Hunt, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

27 USASA Rampage Slopestyle, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

27 Wild Western Cup, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

27 K2 Breast Cancer Awareness Day, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

27 Just Desserts Eat & <strong>Ski</strong>, Enchanted Forest XC<br />

27 Hope on <strong>the</strong> Slopes, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

28 NM Pine Cup, Angel Fire Resort<br />

Mar<br />

1 Apache Quest Scavenger Hunts, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

2, 27, 30 Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek<br />

3 2-Star Taos Freeride Championships, TSV<br />

4-5 4-Star Taos Freeride Championships, TSV<br />

5 <strong>Ski</strong> Bum Ball, Angel Fire Resort<br />

5 Big Mountain Challenge, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

5 NMX Competition, AF Resort<br />

5-6 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort<br />

5, 20 Fun Races, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

5, 26 College Days, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

7 Springtacular, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

12 New Belgium Scavenger Hunt, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

12 Spring Fling Race, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

12 13th Annual Cardbox Derby, Sipapu <strong>Ski</strong> Resort<br />

12 Ernie Blake Birthday Celebration, TSV<br />

12-18 Fiesta del Sol Spring Break, AF Resort<br />

13 Cardboard Derby, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

13 Pond <strong>Ski</strong>mming & Beach Body Contest, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

17 St. Patrick’s Day Celebration, Angel Fire Resort<br />

17 Shamrock Relay, <strong>Ski</strong> Apache<br />

18 Kids’ Glow Stick Parade, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

18 Happy Hops Hunt, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

18-19 Ben Meyers Ridge-A-Thon, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

19 12th Annual Pond <strong>Ski</strong>mming Contest, Sipapu<br />

19 Fatty Paddy Mountain Bike Race, AF Resort<br />

20 Locals Benefit Day, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

20 Demo Day, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

20 Pond <strong>Ski</strong>m, Red River <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

20 Moonlight Hike and Campfire, Sipapu Resort<br />

26 Spring Brew Masters, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

26 Telemark <strong>Ski</strong> Clinic, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

27 Easter Egg Hunt, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

27 Easter Eggstravaganza, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

Apr<br />

2 Kachina TWIST lap-a-thon, Taos <strong>Ski</strong> Valley<br />

2 College Day, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

3 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek <strong>Ski</strong> Area<br />

3 Angels and Demons Party, Purga<strong>to</strong>ry Resort<br />

3 Pond <strong>Ski</strong>mming Championships, TSV<br />

7-10 Taos Shortz Film Festival, Taos Center for <strong>the</strong> Arts<br />

Info<br />

Angel Fire 800-446-8117<br />

Chama Valley 800-477-0149<br />

Durango 970-247-3500<br />

Eagle Nest 800-494-9117<br />

Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204<br />

Red River 800-348-6444<br />

Ruidoso 877-784-3676<br />

Santa Fe 800-777-2489<br />

South Fork 800-571-0881<br />

Taos County 800-732-8267<br />

Taos Pueblo 575-758-1028<br />

Dates are subject <strong>to</strong> change. Check with local chambers<br />

for updated calendar information.<br />

30

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