the magazine of the german wine institute - Wines of Germany

50 THE BIOGRAPHY OF WINE
The biography of wine
Wine and people have something in common: their biography makes them into individuals. Not just the grape
variety and its geographic origin – soil and climate at the vineyard location – but also the processing in the cellar are
critical factors which shape every wine. To continue the metaphor of the biography (by the way, connoisseurs swear
that wine is “alive”!): The childhood in the vineyard is followed by the youth in the cellar. Grown up, the wine ends
up in the bottle with the consumer and may perhaps mature some more in his cellar to become a senior. So what
does the course of life of a wine look like?
In the beginning was the vineyard
Every gardener knows that some plants
need sun while others prefer shade. Types
of vine also have different requirements
for their location. In Germany, one of the
northernmost wine-growing countries in
the world, the river valleys are ideal locations.
Why? On the mostly steep slopes on
the river banks, facing south or southeast,
the sun hits the ground at an optimal angle.
The water reflects the sun’s rays and
provides balanced temperatures. The slate
rock which is sometimes exposed (for example
at the Mosel) stores the heat of the
day. The nights may then not only be cold
but cool nights in autumn are even responsible
for ensuring that the fruity aromas
develop in the grapes and the wines made
from them.
Growth has to be trained
The original form of the vine was a forest
plant that climbed up trees. Therefore,
vines need help with growing by providing
either wire trellises or sometimes just individual
posts. The grapevine sprouts anew
every year. The vintner only leaves one or
two shoots in order not to get too many
grapes. It is crucial for the quality of the
wine how many grapes a vine has to produce
(and nourish). Rule of thumb: The
fewer the better – because the strength of
the plant is concentrated more strongly in
the few grapes. Depending on the type of
training a vine supplies one to two kilograms
of grapes. The vintner speaks of the
yield which is usually quoted in hectolitres
per hectare. This is an important variable
in the biography of wine as the yield substantially
influences the quality! In order
to reduce the yield quality-conscious winegrowers
even cut out surplus grapes or split
them in the middle before they reach maturity.
A vineyard needs to be cultivated
A lot of work is required for the grapes to
grow healthily. Some vintners plant grass or
other plants in between the rows of vines
to prevent erosion and to supply natural
fertilisers. Every vineyard is a monoculture
and therefore more susceptible to pests and
diseases and therefore, maintenance measures
are necessary. Pests are often prevented
from reproducing by nature-identical pheromones.
The leaves are cut back to allow
better air circulation between the vines
which helps the grapes to dry faster after
a rain shower and it also increases sun
penetration. There is a lot to do in a vineyard
throughout the year, even in winter
after the harvest when the canes are pruned
so that the vine can form new shoots in
spring.
Harvest time at last!
From bloom in May or June until harvest in
September or October the grapes ripen for
about 100 days. At best, the weather during
this time is not too hot, not too cold,
not too wet and not too dry. Sugar, acid
and many other ingredients develop in the
ripening grapes. Now the moment in which
sugar and acid are in an optimal ratio is very
important. Experienced vintners taste a few
grapes every day or measure the amount of
sugar in the must with a refractometer in
order to determine this moment. Depending
on the weather, it can become very exciting:
Will the wine-grower risk waiting
another day or two? The sugar content in
the grape also determines the final quality
grade of the wine.
The harvest itself is one of the romantic im-