History of the Hotel Bonavia in Rijeka, Igor - Grand Hotel Bonavia
History of the Hotel Bonavia in Rijeka, Igor - Grand Hotel Bonavia
History of the Hotel Bonavia in Rijeka, Igor - Grand Hotel Bonavia
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<strong>History</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong><br />
On <strong>the</strong> 130th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel's activity at its present location and <strong>the</strong> 100th<br />
anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> open<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Grand</strong>e hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong><br />
The <strong>Hotel</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> is a symbol <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, a meet<strong>in</strong>g place with <strong>the</strong> soul <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city, and a<br />
discreetly present history. This bus<strong>in</strong>ess hotel has been <strong>the</strong> most important facility <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city<br />
for decades, but what made it <strong>the</strong> central po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> urban tourism, which hotels were its<br />
competitors, why was it built <strong>in</strong> its current location <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> first place - we will attempt to<br />
clarify <strong>the</strong>se and many o<strong>the</strong>r questions <strong>in</strong> order to make <strong>the</strong> present idyllic picture even more<br />
complete and understandable.<br />
<strong>Rijeka</strong> has cont<strong>in</strong>ually had <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> a city for two thousand years. The Roman walls <strong>of</strong><br />
Tarsatica from <strong>the</strong> 1st century were upgraded <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 4th century. In <strong>the</strong> Middle Ages, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were just ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed and rebuilt, although <strong>the</strong>y rema<strong>in</strong>ed identical <strong>in</strong> every square foot <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir surface area. The Slavs mixed with <strong>the</strong> local Roman population and <strong>the</strong> city was<br />
transformed <strong>in</strong>to Flumen Sancti Viti (St. Vitus' River), but <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> architectural sense,<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> period it existed with<strong>in</strong> its walls, i.e. up to <strong>the</strong> late 18th century, <strong>the</strong> Roman<br />
spirit could be seen <strong>in</strong> every alley and on every wall.<br />
The graveyard church <strong>of</strong> St. Andrew (S. Andrea), which was erected west <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fortified<br />
settlement, dates to <strong>the</strong> Roman period. Up until 1876, it stood <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area between present day<br />
<strong>Rijeka</strong>'s skyscraper and <strong>the</strong> Erste Bank, and had a major impact on its surround<strong>in</strong>gs over its<br />
long history. When it was demolished due to deterioration, a large Roman Aquileia-type floor<br />
mosaic from <strong>the</strong> late 5th century was uncovered.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> late 18th century, <strong>Rijeka</strong> began to shed its Roman and medieval shell and shyly<br />
expanded along <strong>the</strong> coast. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> 1787 census, Bakar was <strong>the</strong> largest Croatian town<br />
with a population <strong>of</strong> 7,656 <strong>in</strong>habitants, <strong>Rijeka</strong> had 5,956 <strong>in</strong>habitants, Varažd<strong>in</strong> had 4,814<br />
<strong>in</strong>habitants while Zagreb had 2,815 <strong>in</strong>habitants.<br />
The emperor, Joseph II von Habsburg visited <strong>Rijeka</strong> on 13th May 1775. He disembarked from<br />
a ship which sailed from Senj at noon. He spent <strong>the</strong> night <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>n on <strong>the</strong> banks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Rječ<strong>in</strong>a River. On <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g day, he attended a service at St Mary's Assumption Church,<br />
which was built over <strong>the</strong> Roman <strong>the</strong>rmae, and was made from its stone, and he visited <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>atre <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g. It was <strong>the</strong> first stone-made <strong>the</strong>atre <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, and was built by Giuseppe<br />
Bon on 1765.<br />
The build<strong>in</strong>g stood at <strong>the</strong> outskirts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> completely barren Dolac, which was divided from<br />
<strong>the</strong> two houses that were built at <strong>the</strong> same time as a <strong>the</strong>atre with a narrow passageway - <strong>the</strong>y<br />
used to be located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> annex <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> current <strong>Bonavia</strong>. At <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> emperor's arrival,<br />
<strong>the</strong> director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>atre was Giuseppe de Gerliczy (orig<strong>in</strong>ally Grličić, 1721-1798), who was<br />
<strong>the</strong> bro<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Giovanni Felice de Gerliczy, regent <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> from 1751 to 1776.<br />
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That simple, but pretty enormous build<strong>in</strong>g could host 300 visitors <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> pit and had 38 boxes.<br />
The programme was predom<strong>in</strong>antly based on games <strong>of</strong> chance, <strong>the</strong> most popular <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<br />
be<strong>in</strong>g Pharaon. Apart from dances and parties, <strong>the</strong> frivolous plays <strong>of</strong> different vagrant act<strong>in</strong>g<br />
troops were only shown occasionally. The area was lit by 54 lamps and 5 chandeliers with<br />
candles, result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> an oscillat<strong>in</strong>g and <strong>in</strong>trigu<strong>in</strong>g semi dark atmosphere.<br />
The elongated square <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>atre was closed towards <strong>the</strong> sea by <strong>the</strong> equally<br />
enormous build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> post <strong>of</strong>fice that was f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>in</strong> 1776 by Pietro Henry, while <strong>the</strong><br />
eastern part was closed by <strong>the</strong> city walls; on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side was <strong>the</strong> August<strong>in</strong>e monastery. The<br />
post <strong>of</strong>fice prevailed over <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>atre, and <strong>the</strong> street/square connect<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> high street <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Korzo and <strong>the</strong> steep and vacant h<strong>in</strong>terland, which ran parallely with <strong>the</strong> walls, was called<br />
Contrada della Posta.<br />
We are not aware if Joseph II was satisfied with <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g programme, but we do know that<br />
he wasn't completely satisfied with <strong>the</strong> th<strong>in</strong>gs he saw <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>. The bus<strong>in</strong>ess activities were<br />
pretty much reduced to <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>credibly successful Sugar Ref<strong>in</strong>ery, which processed imported<br />
sugar cane. That company, which employed 1,000 people at a time when <strong>the</strong>re were only 300<br />
manufactur<strong>in</strong>g workers <strong>in</strong> Croatia, was run by <strong>the</strong> Dutch. Maria Theresia, <strong>the</strong> emperor's<br />
mo<strong>the</strong>r and his co-ruler, had her shares <strong>in</strong> this company. But everyth<strong>in</strong>g else was quite modest<br />
and far from <strong>the</strong> success <strong>the</strong> emperor expected.<br />
Besides <strong>the</strong> measures which were supposed to revive trade <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, <strong>the</strong> emperor decided that<br />
<strong>the</strong> town gates would no longer be closed at night and that <strong>the</strong> town could spread outside <strong>the</strong><br />
city walls more freely. At <strong>the</strong> same time, he dissolved many monastic orders and<br />
confraternities, so he also emptied <strong>the</strong> August<strong>in</strong>e's monastery (1788), which was located about<br />
twenty metres east <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>’s present location . Of course, he also established <strong>the</strong><br />
Gubernium <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1776, which reta<strong>in</strong>ed its adm<strong>in</strong>istrative rights until 1918. In this way,<br />
<strong>the</strong> emperor gave credit to his host, Giovanni Felice Gerliczy, replac<strong>in</strong>g him with <strong>the</strong> first<br />
governor, Count Josip Mailath de Szekhely.<br />
Andrija Ljudevit Adamić was <strong>the</strong> most important person <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city life <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> around<br />
1800. This able merchant became rich through <strong>in</strong>heritance from his fa<strong>the</strong>r Šimun, as well as<br />
through his marriage to Elizabeta Barčić. In 1796, he was a civil eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g clerk with Antun<br />
Gnamb, <strong>the</strong> lead<strong>in</strong>g civil eng<strong>in</strong>eer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time. In 1798, Adamić designed a new, large <strong>the</strong>atre<br />
with 1,600 seats which he wanted to build with his own money on <strong>the</strong> Korzo, between <strong>the</strong><br />
post <strong>of</strong>fice and <strong>the</strong> sea. He managed to f<strong>in</strong>ish it and open it with a grand ceremony on 3rd<br />
October 1805 on <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> present City Library. Independently <strong>of</strong> its impressive<br />
competition, Gerliczy's <strong>the</strong>atre, with its frequent changes <strong>in</strong> ownership, survived until 1820,<br />
when it was made <strong>in</strong>to a residential build<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
One project has been found by Mr. Adamić dat<strong>in</strong>g back to 1806 that is even more <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
He suggested <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> city government:<br />
«S<strong>in</strong>ce this town lacks a build<strong>in</strong>g which would be adequate as a large and spacious build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
for <strong>the</strong> reception <strong>of</strong> guests, and s<strong>in</strong>ce I have bought <strong>the</strong> construction site from Mr Paravić (a<br />
wealthy squire from Čabar) near <strong>the</strong> new City Guards with a high wall on 22nd April, I have<br />
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decided to build a build<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> accommodation <strong>of</strong> 100 people <strong>the</strong>re, toge<strong>the</strong>r with a stable<br />
for fifty horses and storage for thirty carriages." He also attached a draft for <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
which was 17 "klafter" long and 19 "klafter" wide (32x36 m). 1<br />
This project was f<strong>in</strong>ally realised by his grandson, Eugenio Ciotta 1842-1844. It was <strong>in</strong> that<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g, which stood on <strong>the</strong> coast, that husband and wife, Adam and Catter<strong>in</strong>a Ricotti,<br />
opened <strong>the</strong> hotel, Re d'Ungheria (Ugarski kralj, i.e. The K<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Hungary), <strong>in</strong> 1845. A dancer<br />
called Catter<strong>in</strong>a Keser, born <strong>in</strong> Ancona <strong>in</strong> 1818, was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important figures <strong>of</strong> 19th<br />
century social life <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, a queen <strong>of</strong> common people's parties and fun. She married Adam<br />
Ricotti Jr, an <strong>in</strong>n-keeper, hotel owner and trader, and proved her <strong>in</strong>dependence when she<br />
cont<strong>in</strong>ued develop<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> family bus<strong>in</strong>ess after his death <strong>in</strong> 1871, until her own death <strong>in</strong> 1894.<br />
There are three hotels on <strong>the</strong> famous Pirisi's map <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>of</strong> 1852. The most important <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>m was <strong>the</strong> Ugarskom kralju, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> Kazalištu, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g built by Adamić, while <strong>the</strong><br />
hotel Pošti was located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> remodelled Gerliczy's <strong>the</strong>atre, that is just two or three yards<br />
from <strong>the</strong> current entrance to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>.<br />
St Andrew’s street used to beg<strong>in</strong> between <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>atre and <strong>the</strong> two build<strong>in</strong>gs at <strong>the</strong> present<br />
location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, ascend<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>the</strong> hill, and descend<strong>in</strong>g to St. Andrew's church <strong>in</strong> a<br />
wide arch. It followed a l<strong>in</strong>e along <strong>the</strong> karst s<strong>in</strong>khole full <strong>of</strong> greenery, and at <strong>the</strong> highest po<strong>in</strong>t<br />
passed <strong>the</strong> old villa belong<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Meynier family (next to <strong>the</strong> current FINA build<strong>in</strong>g, who<br />
were <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>n owners <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Paper Mill, established by Adamić <strong>in</strong> 1821.<br />
The spr<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Andrejšćica brook was just below that villa and St Andrew's Street simply<br />
bypassed it, toge<strong>the</strong>r with that completely hostile terra<strong>in</strong>.<br />
In 1856, G. A. Lavoratori, yet ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Adamić’s grandsons, opened a summer <strong>the</strong>atre <strong>in</strong><br />
Dolac, near St Andrew's church. The Teatro diurno was a common phenomenon at <strong>the</strong> time.<br />
Generally, it was an improvised wooden stage which was set up dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> summer and which<br />
was actually only an excuse for dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g large quantities <strong>of</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e and beer under a thick shade<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trees.<br />
In 1874, that plot was bought by <strong>the</strong> widow Catter<strong>in</strong>a Ricotti, who built a family house<br />
designed by Jakov Matić <strong>the</strong>re, while she turned <strong>the</strong> timber warehouse <strong>in</strong>to a <strong>the</strong>atre hall<br />
which she called Teatro Ricotti. This build<strong>in</strong>g was located next to <strong>the</strong> railway l<strong>in</strong>e connect<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>Rijeka</strong> to Zagreb <strong>in</strong> 1873.<br />
The railway brought a new age <strong>of</strong> tourism to <strong>Rijeka</strong> - <strong>in</strong> 1874, two impressive hotels were<br />
built. The first was <strong>the</strong> Europa, designed by Giuseppe Bruni from Trieste for Josip Gorup, <strong>the</strong><br />
richest man <strong>in</strong> Slovenia at <strong>the</strong> time. This build<strong>in</strong>g was designed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Venetian classicism<br />
style and was built on <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> demolished Ugarski kralj/<strong>the</strong> old Europa hotel, although<br />
it was considerably larger, occupy<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> entire block to <strong>the</strong> shore.<br />
The second one was <strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> de la Ville (today, it is <strong>the</strong> students' d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g hall Indeks <strong>in</strong><br />
Krešimirova street). It was designed and built by Ivan Bakarčić for his family. The build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
had four floors, with ten rooms towards <strong>the</strong> Korzo Deak and seven towards <strong>the</strong> Brajda. On<br />
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each floor <strong>the</strong>re was a total <strong>of</strong> 68 rooms with 120 beds. The hotel was owned by G. Scheider.<br />
The <strong>in</strong>terior was luxuriously designed, with an impressive bronze sheen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> lobby, a large<br />
restaurant and a pub which had a spacious garden terrace.<br />
Both <strong>the</strong> Europa and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> de la Ville set new, metropolitan standards <strong>in</strong> hotel proposals,<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> matter <strong>of</strong> size, as well as <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir sh<strong>in</strong>y salons and restaurants, with a good deal <strong>of</strong> brass,<br />
crystal and mirrors. Beside <strong>the</strong>se two facilities, <strong>the</strong>re was also <strong>the</strong> Alla Stela (formerly <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>atre/hotel Pošti), <strong>the</strong> Al Re d'Ungheria (on its new site), <strong>the</strong> Al Nuovo ritornello on <strong>the</strong><br />
Korzo and <strong>the</strong> Aquila nera.<br />
In 1874, <strong>the</strong> mayor, Giovanni de Ciotta, yet ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Adamić’s grandsons, f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>the</strong><br />
reconstruction and upgrade <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Municipium (<strong>the</strong> former August<strong>in</strong>e monastery), which<br />
achieved its present look. For this reason, <strong>the</strong> street connect<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Korzo and <strong>the</strong> present<br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong> was named Via del Municipio.<br />
In that period, a 24 year old Czech expatriate Felix (Felice) Eckerl moved to <strong>Rijeka</strong> and <strong>in</strong><br />
December 1875 opened an <strong>in</strong>n at Korzo Deak, near <strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> de la Ville. As his bus<strong>in</strong>ess ran<br />
well, on 8th June 1876 he decided to open a hotel, <strong>the</strong> Nazionale, with a restaurant <strong>in</strong> Via del<br />
Municipio, No. 548, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> old build<strong>in</strong>g next to <strong>the</strong> Alla Stela hotel. 2<br />
This date marked <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> current <strong>Bonavia</strong>. The reaction from <strong>the</strong> city<br />
daily La Bilanicia was quite negative:<br />
«The new restaurant <strong>in</strong> Via del Municipio has a sign with Restauration Nazional written <strong>in</strong><br />
capital letters, it is not clear <strong>in</strong> what language it is, fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, it extrudes somewhat from<br />
<strong>the</strong> façade.» 3<br />
The remark by Emidije Mohović, <strong>the</strong> owner, chief editor and <strong>the</strong> author <strong>of</strong> most texts <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
newspaper, was related to <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel was written without <strong>the</strong> letter e,<br />
i.e. Nazional, and not <strong>in</strong> its correct form Nazionale, as <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel appeared <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
same newspaper a couple <strong>of</strong> days later.<br />
Shortly afterwards, on 26th May, <strong>the</strong> hotel Al Nuovo ritornello was opened thoroughly<br />
redecorated. On <strong>the</strong> opposite side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vacant Dolac, <strong>the</strong> Teatro Ricotti was opened on 19th<br />
August on <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pub by <strong>the</strong> already successful owner. In some way, Mr Bukounik<br />
followed her example and on 22nd November 1876 he bought a build<strong>in</strong>g plot with a small<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g on Korzo Deak, next to <strong>the</strong> railway l<strong>in</strong>e, with <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>tention <strong>of</strong> open<strong>in</strong>g a pub with a<br />
summer terrace <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> shade <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tall chestnut trees. This unpretentious club would evolve<br />
<strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> very popular <strong>Hotel</strong> Deak (today’s trade union build<strong>in</strong>g, Franjo Belulović), whose<br />
bus<strong>in</strong>ess activity was connected to <strong>Bonavia</strong> at some period.<br />
For unknown reasons, <strong>the</strong> hotel Nazionale changed owner, and Luigi Sp<strong>in</strong>azzi took it over<br />
from Felix Eckerle on 18th October 1877. 4<br />
We should also record ano<strong>the</strong>r prom<strong>in</strong>ent figure from <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> who moved to<br />
Dolac. On 10th April 1878, a photographer named Ilario Carposio bought <strong>the</strong> photography<br />
studio toge<strong>the</strong>r with equipment from Giuseppe Luzzatto at Dolac, at No. 567, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> auxiliary<br />
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s<strong>in</strong>gle floor Ricotti build<strong>in</strong>g. He ran his bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>in</strong> those premises for <strong>the</strong> next forty years,<br />
leav<strong>in</strong>g many dist<strong>in</strong>ct and historically important landscapes <strong>of</strong> this fast develop<strong>in</strong>g city.<br />
In 1880, Ms Ricotti hired <strong>the</strong> famous designer, Jakov Matić, to build a new and more<br />
luxurious stage. The auditorium rema<strong>in</strong>ed improvised, with <strong>the</strong> rows <strong>of</strong> wooden benches.<br />
The same architect <strong>in</strong> 1882 designed <strong>the</strong> rearrangement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> residential Bakarčić build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
from 1874 <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> Lloyd on Adamić Square. With <strong>the</strong>se construction works, <strong>Rijeka</strong><br />
ga<strong>in</strong>ed, although for a short period, an array <strong>of</strong> four hotels along Via del Municipio street: <strong>the</strong><br />
Europa, <strong>the</strong> Lloyd, <strong>the</strong> Alla Stella d'oro and <strong>the</strong> Nazionale.<br />
In 1883, mayor Ciotta, who was also a civil eng<strong>in</strong>eer who worked for <strong>the</strong> army, decided to<br />
apply <strong>the</strong> town plann<strong>in</strong>g scheme and solve <strong>the</strong> issue <strong>of</strong> Dolac. Firstly, <strong>the</strong> municipality bought<br />
a large plot from <strong>the</strong> Vranyczany family and demolished <strong>the</strong> old Alla Stela d'oro <strong>the</strong>atre/hotel,<br />
<strong>in</strong> order to ensure sufficient width to <strong>the</strong> street. At <strong>the</strong> same time, <strong>the</strong> mayor was look<strong>in</strong>g for a<br />
suitable architect who could implement his ideas. He found <strong>the</strong> right candidate <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> figure <strong>of</strong><br />
Giacomo Zammatti, who he <strong>in</strong>vited to move to <strong>Rijeka</strong> from Trieste <strong>in</strong> 1883, <strong>in</strong> order to<br />
supervise <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new <strong>the</strong>atre by architects Fellner and Helmer from Vienna.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> jo<strong>in</strong>t action <strong>of</strong> Ciotta and Zammatti, <strong>Rijeka</strong> achieved Dolac as it is today. The <strong>Hotel</strong><br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong> thus ceased to be just a file <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> archives and became quite real.<br />
The two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m imag<strong>in</strong>ed regular blocks with <strong>the</strong> new streets <strong>of</strong> Clotilde <strong>in</strong>feriore (Dolac)<br />
and <strong>the</strong> parallel Clotilde superiore, <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> Villa Meynier, as well as <strong>the</strong> connect<strong>in</strong>g Street<br />
No. 9. St. Andrew's Street (<strong>the</strong> name rema<strong>in</strong>ed although <strong>the</strong> church was demolished due to<br />
deterioration) which kept only part <strong>of</strong> its previous course. These construction works covered<br />
<strong>the</strong> Andrejščica brook, <strong>the</strong> central part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> karst s<strong>in</strong>khole was filled <strong>in</strong> - which resulted <strong>in</strong><br />
provid<strong>in</strong>g a significant construction area for <strong>the</strong> monumentalization <strong>of</strong> Dolac. S<strong>in</strong>ce this<br />
<strong>in</strong>cluded major construction works, <strong>the</strong> mayor decided to name <strong>the</strong> parallel streets Clotilde,<br />
which was <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> Archduke Josef’s wife, a cous<strong>in</strong> to <strong>the</strong> emperor Franz Joseph, who<br />
moved to <strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1882 and lived <strong>in</strong> a villa which now hosts <strong>the</strong> State Archive.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> Via Clotilde <strong>in</strong>feriore, <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> two construction plots and<br />
<strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> former hotel Nazionale was Ignazio Bonetić. He decided to build on <strong>the</strong><br />
construction plot next to <strong>the</strong> hotel and entrusted <strong>the</strong> project to Giuseppe Chierego, whose<br />
portfolio <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>the</strong> upgrade <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> long, old Adamić house on <strong>the</strong> bank <strong>of</strong> Rječ<strong>in</strong>a River <strong>in</strong><br />
1880, and its conversion <strong>in</strong>to a Croatian Grammar School.<br />
The build<strong>in</strong>g that Chierego designed for Bonetić had seven w<strong>in</strong>dow axis and a shallow lateral<br />
avant-corps with two balconies. The historicist decoration is discrete, but still gives a serious<br />
touch to <strong>the</strong> façade. The build<strong>in</strong>g was designed as a residential property, and, if <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>n<br />
existed, it was operated at <strong>the</strong> ground floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> former hotel Nazionale. The build<strong>in</strong>g was<br />
completed <strong>in</strong> 1885, as <strong>the</strong> first new build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> street.<br />
A three-floor residential build<strong>in</strong>g was also built <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> same block <strong>in</strong> 1885, west from <strong>the</strong><br />
Bonetić build<strong>in</strong>g. Opposite <strong>the</strong>se three build<strong>in</strong>gs, Giovanni de Ciotta decided to build an<br />
impressive Girls' Primary School (now <strong>the</strong> University Library and <strong>the</strong> Museum <strong>of</strong> Modern<br />
5
and Contemporary Art), and an even more impressive Boys' Primary School at <strong>the</strong> opposite<br />
side <strong>of</strong> Dolac (now <strong>the</strong> Italian Secondary School). Both school build<strong>in</strong>gs, which were used <strong>in</strong><br />
competition aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong> Hungarian Gubernium, were designed by Giacomo Zammattio <strong>in</strong><br />
1885.<br />
The preparations for construction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> schools began <strong>in</strong> 1886, but work stopped dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
cholera epidemics. The structural works were f<strong>in</strong>ally f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>in</strong> April and May 1887. The<br />
construction works were carried out by <strong>the</strong> Depangher & Botta company, and were f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>in</strong><br />
December 1887. The construction work <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Boys' School was supervised by Giuseppe<br />
Chieregho. The formal open<strong>in</strong>g was organized on 9th January 1888.<br />
Regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Girls' Primary School, it should be po<strong>in</strong>ted out that <strong>the</strong> eastern w<strong>in</strong>g was added<br />
by Giovanni Rub<strong>in</strong>ić <strong>in</strong> 1902, when a small adjacent build<strong>in</strong>g was demolished, but fully<br />
respect<strong>in</strong>g Zammatti's base idea.<br />
Teatro Ricotti, <strong>the</strong>n called Teatro Fenice at Dolac was modernized <strong>in</strong> 1888, and <strong>the</strong> new<br />
name, rem<strong>in</strong>scent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> renowned Venetian <strong>the</strong>atre, shows <strong>the</strong> bigger ambitions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> owner.<br />
Accord<strong>in</strong>g to Nicolas Predonzany's design, <strong>the</strong> elevated stage was thoroughly refurbished, a<br />
new decorative portal was built, as well as a work<strong>in</strong>g gallery for <strong>the</strong> handl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> scenery. The<br />
backstage premises for actors, choir s<strong>in</strong>gers and <strong>the</strong> staff, <strong>in</strong> addition to toilets, were built <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> yard area, along <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn row <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boxes. The chairs were upholstered, <strong>the</strong> orchestra<br />
pit was arranged and gas lights were <strong>in</strong>troduced. The <strong>the</strong>atre could thus accommodate 500<br />
people on <strong>the</strong> floor and 200 people <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> gallery and <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> boxes. The <strong>the</strong>atre still had no<br />
ro<strong>of</strong> and would rema<strong>in</strong> so until 1901, when it f<strong>in</strong>ally ga<strong>in</strong>ed a canvas ro<strong>of</strong>, with decorations<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>ted by Giovanni Fumi <strong>in</strong> 1900, which was among his last works.<br />
The <strong>the</strong>atre used to show plays and operettas with famous performers (Zago, Ben<strong>in</strong>i), as well<br />
as circus shows with tra<strong>in</strong>ed horses, magicians, vaudevilles, puppet shows (Riccard<strong>in</strong>i, Gorno-<br />
Dall Aqua), Hungarian operetta troupes, and sometimes even martial arts shows were<br />
organized.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> Via Clotilde <strong>in</strong>feriore were fully built, Ciotta ordered a series <strong>of</strong><br />
photographs from Ilario Carposi which were supposed to mark <strong>the</strong> new success <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city<br />
adm<strong>in</strong>istration. We can <strong>the</strong>refore see two massive school build<strong>in</strong>gs, <strong>the</strong> elevated road, <strong>the</strong><br />
front façade <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Teatro Fenice, <strong>the</strong> block with <strong>the</strong> residential Bonetić build<strong>in</strong>g, next to<br />
which <strong>the</strong>re was a harmonious three-floored build<strong>in</strong>g to which a high attic was constructed.<br />
The Bonetić build<strong>in</strong>g stood beside <strong>the</strong> former build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel Nazionale, and <strong>the</strong><br />
spacious gardens were beh<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> whole block, as well as <strong>the</strong> ascent towards <strong>the</strong> great park<br />
belong<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Meynier family. The eastern part <strong>of</strong> Clotilda <strong>in</strong>feriore street was closed by<br />
<strong>the</strong> Municipium build<strong>in</strong>g, where mayor Ciotta, who held that <strong>of</strong>fice from 1872 to 1896, came<br />
up with ideas <strong>of</strong> how to make <strong>Rijeka</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most successful cities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Austro-<br />
Hungarian Monarchy.<br />
An advertisement appeared on 3rd June 1887, stat<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong> Trattoria alla Buona Via, was<br />
located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> new Bonetić build<strong>in</strong>g, on <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> Municipium Street and St Andres's<br />
Street (!). This shows <strong>the</strong> old habit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> to call <strong>the</strong> streets and locations by<br />
6
<strong>of</strong>ficially non-existent names, which was not strange for a town where street names were<br />
changed dozens <strong>of</strong> times.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> advertisement, <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> restaurant called his reputable clients and all<br />
<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs to come on Sunday, 4th June 1887, to taste <strong>the</strong> Ste<strong>in</strong>feld beer. He also <strong>of</strong>fered<br />
genu<strong>in</strong>e teran w<strong>in</strong>e and white w<strong>in</strong>es, stat<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong> boccie field with two l<strong>in</strong>es was located <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> extension <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> garden area.<br />
Between 1887 - 1888, Giacomo Zammattio started a successful cooperation with Robert<br />
Whitehead, who <strong>in</strong>vented <strong>the</strong> torpedo and owned <strong>the</strong> factory where <strong>the</strong> weapon was<br />
manufactured, whose shares were also owned by mayor Ciotta. Zammattio designed <strong>the</strong><br />
Venetian House <strong>in</strong> Clotilde Inferiore Street for this naturalised Englishmen, at No. 7. This<br />
luxurious project was a cont<strong>in</strong>uation <strong>of</strong> convert<strong>in</strong>g Dolac <strong>in</strong>to a metropolitan area. S<strong>in</strong>ce<br />
Whitehead was extremely satisfied Zammatti also designed equally monumental residential<br />
build<strong>in</strong>gs at house numbers 3 and 5, and afterwards designed a corner build<strong>in</strong>g with a dome<br />
for <strong>the</strong> People's Sav<strong>in</strong>gs Bank, opposite <strong>the</strong> Boys' School, which emerged on <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> St<br />
Andrew's Street and Clotilde Inferiore. These build<strong>in</strong>gs, which formed <strong>the</strong> present look <strong>of</strong><br />
Dolac, were built between1895 and 1896.<br />
As a response to <strong>the</strong> city schools at Dolac, <strong>the</strong> Gubernium decided to build <strong>the</strong> Hungarian<br />
State Primary and Secondary Girls' School <strong>in</strong> Via Clotilde Superiore and provided 50,000<br />
fior<strong>in</strong>es to that purpose. The project was implemented by <strong>the</strong> great architect, Gyözö Czigler, a<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong> Construction <strong>of</strong> Antiquity at <strong>the</strong> Budapest Polytechnic University. His idea was<br />
that <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g should be a strict neo-Renaissance palace. The construction was entrusted to<br />
<strong>the</strong> V. Celligoi & G. Leard company from <strong>Rijeka</strong>, who committed to f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> works <strong>in</strong><br />
less than a year – from August 1896 to July 1897. That build<strong>in</strong>g closed <strong>the</strong> block <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Bonetić build<strong>in</strong>g and <strong>the</strong> garden part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> restaurant from <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn side. It has<br />
reta<strong>in</strong>ed its academic function, now host<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> First Croatian Grammar School <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Andrija Mohorovičić Grammar School.<br />
Ignazio Bonetić was mentioned as <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g where <strong>the</strong> restaurant <strong>Bonavia</strong><br />
worked until 1906, when it was given over to <strong>the</strong> family who <strong>in</strong>herited it, and who were<br />
mentioned until 1921. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side, <strong>in</strong> 1903, <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> restaurant Alla <strong>Bonavia</strong><br />
was Ferd<strong>in</strong>and Scala. In his advertisement, he claimed that it was <strong>the</strong> most famous restaurant<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, which he completely refurbished and <strong>in</strong>creased <strong>the</strong> garden area - where <strong>the</strong> boccie<br />
field was still an important part <strong>of</strong> his <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
He po<strong>in</strong>ted out <strong>the</strong> Italian and German cuis<strong>in</strong>e, great local w<strong>in</strong>es and <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e from<br />
Sanvicento and Smoljan <strong>in</strong> Istria, as well as first-class Dalmatian w<strong>in</strong>e. For those visitors who<br />
preferred beer, he recommended <strong>the</strong> Puntigamer Keiserbier.<br />
However, <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong> began its bus<strong>in</strong>ess operation under its present name <strong>in</strong> 1906. At<br />
that time, <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dows on <strong>the</strong> ground floor were enlarged <strong>in</strong> order to achieve more light <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
restaurant. The daily La Bilancia published an advertisement on 4th November 1906.<br />
«<strong>Grand</strong>e hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong><br />
7
Via Clotilde Inferiore<br />
A completely new hotel, with fifty-eight elegantly equipped rooms, each with maximum<br />
comfort. In <strong>the</strong> city centre, with electrical lightn<strong>in</strong>g. Rooms at a fair price. In addition: <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is a restaurant with a magnificent garden at <strong>the</strong> back. Great Italian and German cuis<strong>in</strong>e.<br />
Selected w<strong>in</strong>es, both domestic and imported. First-class beer, modern service.<br />
There is a tram from <strong>the</strong> Rail Station for all tra<strong>in</strong>s and steamships. For <strong>the</strong> comfort <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
travellers, <strong>the</strong> restaurant rema<strong>in</strong>s open until 2 AM. Phone No. 346.»<br />
When <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ally appeared <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city life <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, o<strong>the</strong>r entrepreneurs were<br />
also active. Thus Federico Heim, <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Deak hotel from 1889, stated <strong>in</strong> a large<br />
advertisement that on 1st December 1907, <strong>the</strong> thoroughly refurbished hotel Deak would be<br />
open, and that electricity had been <strong>in</strong>troduced <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> hotel.<br />
This hotel owed its great success to a lovely hall with a floor area <strong>of</strong> 2 152 sq ft and it was 30<br />
ft high, with a large skylight and lavish stucco decorations and murals which were done <strong>in</strong><br />
1891 by Giovanni Fumi, a famous pa<strong>in</strong>ter from <strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time. That hall was <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong><br />
enterta<strong>in</strong>ment <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, especially at carnival time and was actually a supplement to <strong>the</strong> old<br />
Teatro Fenice.<br />
However, apart from <strong>the</strong> renovation <strong>of</strong> hotel Deak, Federico Heim also advertised <strong>the</strong> open<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>of</strong> his new Royal hotel on <strong>the</strong> Korzo (now <strong>the</strong> Primorje-Gorski Kotar County build<strong>in</strong>g). It was<br />
designed by Emilio Ambros<strong>in</strong>i, with luxurious secession details on <strong>the</strong> façade that were<br />
implemented by Domenico Rizzo. The hotel owned a lift by <strong>the</strong> F. Wer<strong>the</strong>im company <strong>of</strong><br />
Budapest. Both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se hotels – Deak and Royal – were once l<strong>in</strong>ked to <strong>Bonavia</strong> for a shorter<br />
or longer time.<br />
In 1910, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> changed its address as <strong>the</strong> streets were renamed from 1908 - not for <strong>the</strong><br />
first and certa<strong>in</strong>ly not for <strong>the</strong> last time! – as <strong>the</strong> local authorities strived to create a touch <strong>of</strong> an<br />
Italian city <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>. So Via Clotilde <strong>in</strong>feriore became Via Edmondo de Amicis. The<br />
Austrian Archduchess, who left <strong>Rijeka</strong> after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> her husband, <strong>the</strong> Archduke Joseph<br />
on 13th June 1905, was thus replaced by a popular Italian writer for young people.<br />
Apart from <strong>the</strong> address, <strong>the</strong> ownership also changed - Nikola Mateljan and Anton Matejčić<br />
issued a call to <strong>the</strong> open<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a completely remodelled garden on 1st May 1910.<br />
«The cuis<strong>in</strong>e is <strong>the</strong> same as it used to be, be<strong>in</strong>g both domestic and German, with a great<br />
choice <strong>of</strong> delicious dishes. There is a variety <strong>of</strong> excellent w<strong>in</strong>es, as well as light and dark beer<br />
from <strong>the</strong> famous Köbanya brewery. Quick and precise service.»<br />
In 1911, Julius Ederer Burger appeared as <strong>the</strong> new owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, which was<br />
advertised as <strong>the</strong> annex <strong>of</strong> his hotel Deak.<br />
«Both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city centre, close to <strong>the</strong> railway station and <strong>the</strong> steamship port.<br />
Stylish and <strong>the</strong> most frequented houses for families. Excellent cuis<strong>in</strong>e and dr<strong>in</strong>ks. Pilsner<br />
urquell beer.»<br />
8
In <strong>the</strong> same year, <strong>the</strong> architect Thedor Träxler, educated <strong>in</strong> Vienna under <strong>the</strong> famous Otto<br />
Wagner, drafted <strong>the</strong> first project for <strong>the</strong> large Teatro Fenice <strong>in</strong> re<strong>in</strong>forced concrete. That<br />
design already <strong>in</strong>cluded a <strong>the</strong>atre, a variety <strong>the</strong>atre, a cas<strong>in</strong>o with a concert hall and areas for<br />
socializ<strong>in</strong>g, as well as residential premises. Due to problems with purchas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
plot, <strong>the</strong> cas<strong>in</strong>o and luxurious residential build<strong>in</strong>g (six-bedroom apartments with <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />
staircase and lift, ro<strong>of</strong> terrace <strong>in</strong> greenery) rema<strong>in</strong>ed simply a project, and new versions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>atre build<strong>in</strong>g followed as well. In 1912, Träxler f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>the</strong> project, <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g was built<br />
throughout 1913, and <strong>the</strong> grand open<strong>in</strong>g on 2nd May 1914 <strong>in</strong>cluded Pucc<strong>in</strong>i's opera Tosca.<br />
<strong>Rijeka</strong> thus had <strong>the</strong> first <strong>the</strong>atre <strong>in</strong> Europe whose frame was built out <strong>of</strong> re<strong>in</strong>forced concrete. It<br />
was designed and built at <strong>the</strong> same time as <strong>the</strong> famous Théâtre de Champs-Elysées <strong>in</strong> Paris,<br />
by Auguste Perret.<br />
A <strong>the</strong>atre with two large halls – <strong>the</strong> Sala bianca <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> basement with 500 seats and a large<br />
dance floor, and a ma<strong>in</strong> room on <strong>the</strong> ground floor with 1,450 seats, which astonishes<br />
architecture connoisseurs, especially consider<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> time it was built. Actually, this was <strong>the</strong><br />
largest <strong>the</strong>atre <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> region and <strong>the</strong> transformation from <strong>the</strong> improvised summer <strong>the</strong>atre <strong>of</strong><br />
Catter<strong>in</strong>a Ricotti to a European architectural masterpiece is truly amaz<strong>in</strong>g. Just before World<br />
War I, when <strong>Rijeka</strong> toge<strong>the</strong>r with Sušak had 65,000 <strong>in</strong>habitants and Zagreb had 75,000, it<br />
looked as if anyth<strong>in</strong>g was possible <strong>in</strong> this marvellous town <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kvarner Bay.<br />
In 1914, <strong>Rijeka</strong> had 20 hotels - Zagreb had only three! - which is worth a mention, as that was<br />
<strong>the</strong> highest po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. The Old Town had <strong>the</strong> modest Albergo<br />
popolare and Alla città di Milano, Europa, Adria and Quarnero were on <strong>the</strong> shore, <strong>the</strong> Royal,<br />
Lloyd and Alla Mar<strong>in</strong>a mercantile were on <strong>the</strong> Korzo, <strong>Bonavia</strong> was on <strong>the</strong> Korzo, Deák,<br />
Bristol, Hungaria, <strong>Hotel</strong> de la Ville and Imperial were on <strong>the</strong> Korzo Deák next to each o<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
while <strong>the</strong> large hotel Emigranti hotel, which was 525 ft long, with 1,500 beds was <strong>in</strong><br />
Industrial Street. In Sušak, it was also possible to stay <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g hotels: Kont<strong>in</strong>ental,<br />
Sušak, Klotilda, Jadran and Peć<strong>in</strong>e.<br />
Julius Ederer Burger was <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> until 1915, when <strong>the</strong> hotel was taken over<br />
by Paradeiser. The years <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> WW1 followed, but <strong>the</strong> war did not have any significant<br />
impact on <strong>Rijeka</strong>, as it did <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> period between 1918 - 1924 when <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom <strong>of</strong><br />
Yugoslavia and <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom <strong>of</strong> Italy were fight<strong>in</strong>g over <strong>the</strong> city.<br />
An <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> situation <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> was left <strong>in</strong> 1918 by an Italian voluntary<br />
soldier, Giovanni Comisso, who was later a close collaborator <strong>of</strong> Gabriele D'Annunzio.<br />
"The town is full <strong>of</strong> beautiful girls: sweet shops were full <strong>of</strong> extraord<strong>in</strong>ary sweets, numerous<br />
cafés with many illustrated magaz<strong>in</strong>es, delicious zabagliones, waiters <strong>of</strong>fer<strong>in</strong>g great service,<br />
shops with scents from all over <strong>the</strong> world… The people from <strong>Rijeka</strong> called Italian <strong>of</strong>ficers to<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir homes to all-night parties every night. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m ate, o<strong>the</strong>rs drank; it really seemed<br />
that this town, with its life <strong>of</strong> abundant gifts, was <strong>the</strong> prize for all our efforts dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> war.»<br />
5<br />
9
When Gabriele D'Annunzio conquered <strong>the</strong> city on 12th September 1919, he stayed at <strong>the</strong><br />
Governor's Palace and <strong>in</strong>troduced anarcho-tyrany, hotels Europa, Royal and <strong>Bonavia</strong> were<br />
occupied by his close associates and <strong>the</strong> restaurants became <strong>the</strong> stages for artistic and<br />
exhibitionist rampages. Shortly after that, Filippo Tommaso Mar<strong>in</strong>etti, <strong>the</strong> founder <strong>of</strong> futurism<br />
and equally as prone to pa<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>the</strong>atre as D'Annunzio, also came to town. He stayed for three<br />
days at <strong>the</strong> Lloyd hotel <strong>in</strong> Piazza Dante (now The Republic <strong>of</strong> Croatia Square) and became<br />
<strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> all events <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. He held lectures and plays at <strong>the</strong> Teatro Fenice, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel<br />
Budai (ex <strong>Hotel</strong> de la Ville) and <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> café on <strong>the</strong> ground floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel Lloyd. He <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
walked along <strong>the</strong> Korzo <strong>in</strong> an unusual way, try<strong>in</strong>g to provoke reactions from <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants,<br />
none<strong>the</strong>less he predom<strong>in</strong>antly ga<strong>the</strong>red young people around him, who followed him wait<strong>in</strong>g<br />
for his extravagant outbursts. D'Annunzio soon banished him from <strong>Rijeka</strong> as he drew too<br />
much attention to himself.<br />
Gabriele D'Annunzio loved massive ga<strong>the</strong>r<strong>in</strong>gs and parades, his speeches and play<strong>in</strong>g with<br />
<strong>the</strong> masses. But <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> moments when he wished for a more <strong>in</strong>timate atmosphere, he used to<br />
walk <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>gs from <strong>the</strong> Governor's Palace where he lived down to Dolac, where <strong>the</strong><br />
mayor <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, Riccardo Gigante, <strong>the</strong>n lived and stay to d<strong>in</strong>ner prepared by Riccardo's<br />
sister, Luigia, also known as Gigetta.<br />
His favourite restaurant was <strong>the</strong> Cervo d'oro (Golden Deer), which was located near <strong>the</strong> Royal<br />
hotel, <strong>in</strong> present day Adamić Street. He loved to eat risotto with shrimps, although <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terior<br />
was dark and pla<strong>in</strong>. One day, when his action secretary, Guido Keller brought stuffed<br />
platypus, D'Annunzio liked it so much that <strong>the</strong> Cervo d'oro became <strong>the</strong> Ornitor<strong>in</strong>co<br />
(Platypus). Before risotto, he used to dr<strong>in</strong>k Morlak's Blood, which was his term for cherry<br />
brandy, and he did not refra<strong>in</strong> from coca<strong>in</strong>e ei<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
As D'Annunzio's lover, <strong>the</strong> pianist Luisa Baccara (Bakarić), ga<strong>in</strong>ed too much <strong>in</strong>fluence <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
poet's home, <strong>the</strong> Swiss baron and famous pilot, Guido Keller and his friend Giovanni Comisso<br />
came up with <strong>the</strong> idea for <strong>the</strong> Love Palace party dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> carnival period <strong>in</strong> early 1920.<br />
They planned <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>atre play at Quarnero beach, which was high on <strong>the</strong> pier <strong>in</strong> 1913. The<br />
plan was simple: Luisa Baccara, a captive <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Palace – i.e. Quarnero beach - would be<br />
saved by a pageant <strong>of</strong> knights who would come down from <strong>the</strong> Governor's Palace, pass<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong>, to <strong>the</strong> port and <strong>the</strong>n row <strong>in</strong> a boat to <strong>the</strong> beach, tak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> prisoner out and sail<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
<strong>the</strong> open sea. They did not tell D'Annunzio that <strong>the</strong>y planned to simply take Baccara away<br />
from <strong>Rijeka</strong>. The poet refused <strong>the</strong> entire episode, claim<strong>in</strong>g that it was too D'Annunzio style!<br />
The psychosis <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> was witnessed by Leone Kochnitzky, a Belgian poet and <strong>the</strong><br />
Commander's close associate. He described <strong>the</strong> 15th June 1920, when <strong>the</strong> city celebrated <strong>the</strong><br />
feast <strong>of</strong> St Vitus.<br />
"Illum<strong>in</strong>ated squares, flags, large written banners, boats with flowers and ornate lanterns<br />
(even <strong>the</strong> sea had its role <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> feast) and danc<strong>in</strong>g… Everyone danced, everywhere: on <strong>the</strong><br />
squares, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> streets, on <strong>the</strong> piers; dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> day and night, <strong>the</strong>y danced and sang, not with<br />
<strong>the</strong> sensual s<strong>of</strong>tness <strong>of</strong> Venetian gondoliers, but one could say that <strong>the</strong>se were <strong>the</strong> un<strong>in</strong>hibited<br />
bacchanalia. In <strong>the</strong> impoverished homes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old City <strong>the</strong> women took <strong>of</strong>f pictures <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
sa<strong>in</strong>ts. T<strong>in</strong>y lights illum<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>the</strong> figure <strong>of</strong> Gabriele D'Annunzio. Some people might call it<br />
10
hysteria. That was Bal des Ardents. Under <strong>the</strong> look <strong>of</strong> a hostile and cowardly world… <strong>Rijeka</strong><br />
was danc<strong>in</strong>g before its death.» 6<br />
After <strong>the</strong> Bloody Christmas <strong>in</strong> 1920, <strong>the</strong> regular Italian army expelled D'Annunzio from <strong>the</strong><br />
city, while <strong>the</strong> hotels counted <strong>the</strong> damage.<br />
«In this category <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>surance claim applicants, <strong>the</strong>ir sub-groups or peculiarities cannot be<br />
differentiated. Those who stood out <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>the</strong> restaurant owners, among <strong>the</strong>m hotel Royal<br />
(285,000 liras), hotel Europa (claimed 35,993, estimated as payable 9,500) and hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong><br />
(5,740-5,000 ), as well as <strong>the</strong> restaurants, board<strong>in</strong>g houses and pubs which wanted to be<br />
reimbursed for <strong>the</strong> costs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir damaged premises and <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ventory, and <strong>the</strong> furniture,<br />
equipment and accessories that were taken away.» 7<br />
The situation <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> only calmed down <strong>in</strong> 1924, when <strong>Rijeka</strong> was given away to Italy, and<br />
Sušak was given to Yugoslavia. The important day for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> was on 12th August 1926,<br />
when Giovanni Pavella became <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel. Mr Pavella was actually Ivan Pavela<br />
from <strong>the</strong> village <strong>of</strong> Tugari, near Poljica, some 10 miles from Omiš <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia. He was born<br />
on 18th August 1892 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> family <strong>of</strong> Juraj Pavela and Antonija nee Antičević.<br />
When he took over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, he was liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>in</strong> Goldoni Street No. 3, on <strong>the</strong> first<br />
floor. There was no nationality specified <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficial documents, so it may be assumed that<br />
he still had not solved his position <strong>in</strong> that turbulent age. He came to <strong>Rijeka</strong> because <strong>of</strong> his<br />
bus<strong>in</strong>ess - he was a successful w<strong>in</strong>e tradesman.<br />
The situation <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> was not too optimistic and proved that <strong>the</strong> border on Rječ<strong>in</strong>a brought<br />
many problems to <strong>the</strong> city’s economy. From one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most successful towns <strong>in</strong> Austria-<br />
Hungary and its second largest port (after Trieste), <strong>Rijeka</strong> became a prov<strong>in</strong>cial Italian town<br />
which no one had reason to visit. Apart from <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, <strong>the</strong>re were also o<strong>the</strong>r hotels such as<br />
<strong>the</strong> Imperiale, <strong>the</strong> Reale (ex Royal), <strong>the</strong> Quarnero (<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> present location <strong>of</strong> Euroherc), Adria,<br />
which was run by Tranquillo Negri from 1914 to 1942 and <strong>the</strong> Excelsior (ex Deak).<br />
At <strong>the</strong> very end <strong>of</strong> 1926, a new iron border-cross<strong>in</strong>g bridge was built over <strong>the</strong> Rječ<strong>in</strong>a<br />
connect<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom <strong>of</strong> Italy and <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom <strong>of</strong> Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. In 1930,<br />
Via XXX Ottobre Street (30th October 1918 was <strong>the</strong> date when <strong>the</strong> citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong><br />
allegedly chose to be annexed to Italy) - <strong>the</strong> former Via del Municipio - was considerably<br />
changed, and <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> steep slope from Piazza Dante, wide stairs were built. The terrace<br />
above <strong>the</strong> present Generalturist tourist agency obta<strong>in</strong>ed its present look, because <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs<br />
stand<strong>in</strong>g between <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> and <strong>the</strong> Municipium were demolished.<br />
In 1934, on <strong>the</strong> 10th anniversary <strong>of</strong> annexation <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> to <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom <strong>of</strong> Italy, many<br />
locations throughout <strong>the</strong> city were rebuilt and many events were organized. The most<br />
important <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m was <strong>the</strong> asphalt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 47-mile road between Trieste and <strong>Rijeka</strong> (it was<br />
<strong>the</strong> first asphalt road <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> region, as <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom <strong>of</strong> Yugoslavia had no asphalt roads!). In<br />
<strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, Reg<strong>in</strong>a Elena Square (<strong>the</strong> present Jadranski Square) was rearranged and<br />
<strong>the</strong> bank and pier were rebuilt. There were many art, book and photography exhibitions, <strong>the</strong><br />
large Tommaseo school build<strong>in</strong>g (now <strong>the</strong> Faculty <strong>of</strong> Philosophy <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old Town), and, last<br />
11
ut not least, <strong>the</strong> Votive Temple <strong>in</strong> Kozala, a church whose belfry was f<strong>in</strong>anced by Mussol<strong>in</strong>i.<br />
The last two build<strong>in</strong>gs were designed by <strong>the</strong> architect Bruno Angheben from <strong>Rijeka</strong>.<br />
The centre <strong>of</strong> social life was <strong>the</strong> Teatro Fenice. This multifunctional build<strong>in</strong>g was a <strong>the</strong>atre, a<br />
c<strong>in</strong>ema, <strong>the</strong> location for political congresses and an exhibition area. On Sunday morn<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />
whole families used to come to <strong>the</strong> Sala bianca, whilst <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>gs only <strong>the</strong> men came.<br />
Beside jazz, <strong>the</strong>re were also many easy girls.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crisis, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> became <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> city hotel, due to Pavella's competence<br />
and dedication to work. Many bars existed at <strong>the</strong> time: <strong>the</strong> Adria, Ferrara, Litorale, Nazionale,<br />
Roma, San Marco, Sasso Bianco, Teatro Fenice, Ornitor<strong>in</strong>co, Tosca and Verona; as well as<br />
cafés: Centrale, Panciera, Fiumara, Borsa, Quarnero and Sport, and <strong>the</strong> most famous<br />
restaurant was <strong>the</strong> Conca d'oro (The Golden Shell), run by Edoardo Budic<strong>in</strong>, born <strong>in</strong> Pula.<br />
This restaurant with its Croatian Littoral sentiment was opened at its present location <strong>in</strong> 1929,<br />
after reconstruction by <strong>the</strong> prom<strong>in</strong>ent architect, Edoardo Goellner, when it moved from <strong>the</strong><br />
build<strong>in</strong>g next to <strong>the</strong> Teatro Fenice that that was to be demolished.<br />
On 12th November 1937, Giovanni Pavella registered a large w<strong>in</strong>e trad<strong>in</strong>g company <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Free Port Zone and lived <strong>in</strong> Costabella. In 1939, he started build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> annex to <strong>the</strong> hotel<br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong>.<br />
"Adaptation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong> was done with <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>tention <strong>of</strong> modernis<strong>in</strong>g this city hotel,<br />
<strong>in</strong> accordance with new trends <strong>in</strong> architecture. At this monolithic and static build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong><br />
façade was divided <strong>in</strong>to three unequal parts by horizontal cornices, which give it certa<strong>in</strong><br />
dynamics. In <strong>the</strong> first part (<strong>the</strong> ground floor), <strong>the</strong> representative nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g was<br />
accomplished by <strong>the</strong> sheath made from travert<strong>in</strong>e stone. The second part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
consists <strong>of</strong> three floors with a pure façade and a regular w<strong>in</strong>dow rhythm. The highest parts are<br />
<strong>the</strong> last two floors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel, where <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow rhythm alternates with <strong>the</strong> rhythm <strong>of</strong><br />
vertical cornices between <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dows. The asymmetry, even <strong>the</strong> illusion <strong>of</strong> various volumes<br />
was fully successful.» 8<br />
This text needs an explanation. The old <strong>Bonavia</strong> was a three-floor historicist build<strong>in</strong>g with<br />
decorations glued to <strong>the</strong> façade. When <strong>the</strong> hotel was rebuilt, <strong>the</strong> façade was simply cleaned <strong>of</strong><br />
decorations, <strong>the</strong> stone sheath<strong>in</strong>g was added at <strong>the</strong> ground floor and two/three floors were<br />
added – <strong>the</strong> sixth floor was <strong>in</strong>dented, which provided a small, comfortable terrace with a great<br />
view over Kvarner.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> architect (Alessandro Bolass), who rebuilt <strong>the</strong> hotel, respected <strong>the</strong> previous state, he<br />
discreetly accentuated that on <strong>the</strong> cornices, and <strong>the</strong> asymmetry is thus <strong>the</strong> consequence <strong>of</strong><br />
thoughtful construction, not an arbitrary game. Two shabby build<strong>in</strong>gs rema<strong>in</strong>ed between <strong>the</strong><br />
hotel and <strong>the</strong> stairs. A small reconstruction was done on <strong>the</strong> façade <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m (<strong>the</strong> former<br />
Nazionale) <strong>in</strong> order to ga<strong>in</strong> visual connection with <strong>the</strong> hotel and cover its shabb<strong>in</strong>ess, and <strong>the</strong><br />
clean surface that was thus obta<strong>in</strong>ed, was used as an advertisement for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> same year <strong>of</strong> 1939, <strong>the</strong>re was large competition for <strong>the</strong> reconstruction project <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Municipium and <strong>the</strong> whole block around it. Most works prepared new build<strong>in</strong>g complexes <strong>of</strong><br />
12
enormous dimensions, without any connection to <strong>the</strong> present situation. They demanded<br />
massive demolition, which even <strong>in</strong>cluded parts <strong>of</strong> Municipium, <strong>the</strong> seat <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Fascist Party<br />
(Now <strong>the</strong> People's Library and Radio-<strong>Rijeka</strong>), and o<strong>the</strong>r build<strong>in</strong>gs on <strong>the</strong> Korzo and <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old<br />
City. Luckily, this attempted attack aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong> core <strong>of</strong> urban <strong>Rijeka</strong> left no consequences as<br />
war begun. The <strong>Bonavia</strong> was thus spared this ugly neighbourhood.<br />
The outbreak <strong>of</strong> war even stopped Pavella. On 22nd June 1941, that is on <strong>the</strong> day when<br />
Germany attacked <strong>the</strong> Soviet Union, he received a design proposal from <strong>the</strong> architect<br />
Alessandro Bolassoa, for <strong>the</strong> upgrade <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>in</strong>to a skyscraper with 11 or 12 floors,<br />
which neatly comb<strong>in</strong>ed with <strong>the</strong> exist<strong>in</strong>g upgrade. This project must be seen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong><br />
similar construction projects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time. In 1939, <strong>the</strong> Small Skyscraper <strong>of</strong> Raul Puhalj was<br />
built, and <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> Skyscraper by <strong>the</strong> architect Umberto Nordi from<br />
Trieste at Piazza Reg<strong>in</strong>a Elene started <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> same year - it was f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>in</strong> 1942. Then aga<strong>in</strong>,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Croatian Cultural Centre with <strong>the</strong> hotel Neboder by Pičman and Alb<strong>in</strong>i, which was<br />
supposed to become <strong>the</strong> tallest build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> country, was also be<strong>in</strong>g built on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border.<br />
Look<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> draft <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> design <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, one could regret that it wasn't upgraded as a<br />
skyscraper, as <strong>the</strong> whole corpus would leave a considerably greater compact and truthful<br />
design than it is today.<br />
Pavella's sudden suspension <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>vestment was obvious even from <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1939<br />
upgrade he left all <strong>the</strong> old furniture on <strong>the</strong> lower three floors.<br />
The city guide Guida di Fiume, founded by Bašćan Polonio-Balbi <strong>in</strong> 1888, which had been<br />
published until <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> WW2, is a valuable source <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation. It listed hotels <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong><br />
for <strong>the</strong> period 1941-1942: The Adria, <strong>the</strong>n at <strong>the</strong> Via Spalato 2 address, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> <strong>in</strong> Via<br />
Edmondo de Amicis 4, <strong>the</strong> Quarnero, run by G<strong>in</strong>a Mohovich <strong>in</strong> Via Garibaldi 17 and <strong>the</strong><br />
annex at No. 21 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same street (now Adamićeva street), and <strong>the</strong>re was also <strong>the</strong> surpris<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>Grand</strong>e albergo Belvedere at Piazza Dante 7 (now <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong> Croatia Square). The guide<br />
mentions that Giovanni Pavella owned a w<strong>in</strong>e trad<strong>in</strong>g company at Molo Genova (now<br />
Orlando Wharf, west <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Adm<strong>in</strong>istrative Build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Port) <strong>in</strong> warehouses 11, 12 and 14.<br />
It also states that he was chairman <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Istituto fascista Africo-Italiana, which might lead to<br />
<strong>the</strong> conclusion that he had certa<strong>in</strong> connections with Lybia or Ethiopia, which were Italian<br />
colonial estates.<br />
Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> war, Pavella tried to keep <strong>the</strong> hotel and <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e trade successful at all costs. He<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten communicated with <strong>the</strong> authorities, demand<strong>in</strong>g easier communication with <strong>the</strong> cities <strong>in</strong><br />
Italy and Germany. After <strong>the</strong> capitulation <strong>of</strong> Italy on 08th September 1943, his situation got<br />
even tougher when <strong>the</strong> German units under <strong>the</strong> colonel Kasparom Völcher came to <strong>Rijeka</strong> on<br />
14 September 1943. This unit was <strong>the</strong> advance cont<strong>in</strong>gent <strong>of</strong> powerful Rommel's forces, who<br />
were tak<strong>in</strong>g control over Istria, <strong>the</strong> Croatian Littoral and <strong>the</strong> Mounta<strong>in</strong> District.<br />
Pavella's son, who was <strong>the</strong>n at <strong>the</strong> Italian Officers' Academy, was taken to a concentration<br />
camp <strong>in</strong> Germany, where he stayed for a year. Pavella probably managed to rescue him due to<br />
<strong>the</strong> fact that German <strong>of</strong>ficers were stay<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, so he had a fair chance to make<br />
13
important contacts. The German Commander's Office for this part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> military and<br />
operational zone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Adriatic was located at <strong>the</strong> Governor's Palace. The post-war court<br />
proceed<strong>in</strong>gs, related to <strong>the</strong> confiscation <strong>of</strong> property show Pavella's activity dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> war.<br />
"Pavella's company <strong>of</strong>ten approaches <strong>the</strong> army <strong>of</strong> occupation for different war services and<br />
privileges. Thus with <strong>the</strong> letter <strong>of</strong> 19th December 1944, he approaches <strong>the</strong> German Berater für<br />
di Prov<strong>in</strong>z Quarnaro <strong>in</strong> Fiume, <strong>in</strong> order to obta<strong>in</strong> a permit for a car drive to Trieste and Venice<br />
<strong>in</strong> addition to <strong>the</strong> already obta<strong>in</strong>ed permit for that prov<strong>in</strong>ce, because its director, A. Trevisan,<br />
was travell<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Reich (i.e. Germany) due to <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g activities <strong>of</strong> his company.<br />
There are more similar letters <strong>in</strong> that year. The letter <strong>of</strong> 11th January 1945 sent to <strong>the</strong><br />
Consiglio Prov<strong>in</strong>ciale della Economia Corporativa is also important - <strong>the</strong> company asks for<br />
permission for phone communication with various Italian companies for trade matters. In that<br />
1945 letter, it was emphasized that <strong>the</strong> defendant's company was a contractor for <strong>the</strong><br />
Wermacht (German army), export<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e to Germany.<br />
The defendant's company cont<strong>in</strong>ued to do bus<strong>in</strong>ess with enemy companies up to <strong>the</strong> end,<br />
giv<strong>in</strong>g provisions to <strong>the</strong> German army. The last batch was delivered under <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>voice No.<br />
16374/55 on 18th September 1945. This batch <strong>in</strong>cluded 15 barrels <strong>of</strong> net kg 10,555 Lit.,<br />
11,110 litres per 2.000 Liras = 2,222,000 Liras <strong>of</strong> f<strong>in</strong>e liqueur delivered to Höheren SS und<br />
Polizaifürer Trieste.» 9<br />
Giovanni Pavella, as an experienced bus<strong>in</strong>ess man, did not wait for <strong>the</strong> liberation <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>.<br />
He escaped to Italy, leav<strong>in</strong>g explanation <strong>of</strong> unclear facts from <strong>the</strong> war period to <strong>the</strong> lawyers.<br />
Soon after liberation on 3rd May 1945, <strong>the</strong> partisans entered <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> first days<br />
only <strong>the</strong> command<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>ficers, and later on even <strong>the</strong> soldiers, and <strong>the</strong> restaurant was thus used<br />
as a canteen. This situation lasted until 1st May 1947.<br />
On 20th June 1947, Giovanni Pavella was sentenced <strong>in</strong> absence, after <strong>the</strong> appeal to <strong>the</strong><br />
previous sentence. Although he was defended by <strong>the</strong> famous lawyer, dr. Leon Vio, he was<br />
sentenced to two years' imprisonment, without forced work, and to confiscation <strong>of</strong> all<br />
property <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>.<br />
Besides <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, which was regularly <strong>in</strong>sured until 4th October 1953, Pavella lost his<br />
villa on Costabella, his real estate and <strong>the</strong> land; construction sites <strong>in</strong> Lovran, his apartments,<br />
villas and real estates <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, his <strong>of</strong>fices and warehouses <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Free Zone <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> port and<br />
several trucks and FIAT 1100 cars. His w<strong>in</strong>e trad<strong>in</strong>g company developed as <strong>the</strong> Istrav<strong>in</strong>o,<br />
company which took over w<strong>in</strong>e from Pavella's warehouse <strong>in</strong> Costabella on 30th June 1947. It<br />
developed <strong>in</strong>to a successful bus<strong>in</strong>ess.<br />
At state level, tourism was to be given a new framework. The Office for Tourism and<br />
Cater<strong>in</strong>g was founded at <strong>the</strong> Federal M<strong>in</strong>istry <strong>of</strong> Trade as early as 1945, and <strong>the</strong>re were also<br />
Departments for Tourism <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> federal republics. In 1947, Yugoslavia had <strong>the</strong> Chief<br />
Adm<strong>in</strong>istration Office for Tourism and Cater<strong>in</strong>g, while <strong>the</strong> departments <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>istries <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> federal republics became adm<strong>in</strong>istrative <strong>of</strong>fices.<br />
14
In 1949, <strong>the</strong> Chief Adm<strong>in</strong>istration Office became a Committee, while <strong>in</strong> 1950 <strong>the</strong> committees<br />
were abolished and <strong>the</strong> Adm<strong>in</strong>istrative Offices were founded at <strong>the</strong> Goods Trade Commission.<br />
The adm<strong>in</strong>istrative period <strong>of</strong> manag<strong>in</strong>g tourism ceased to an extent <strong>in</strong>1950 and <strong>in</strong> 1952 it<br />
ceased completely. The most important <strong>in</strong>stitution <strong>in</strong> Croatia was <strong>the</strong> Chamber <strong>of</strong> Cater<strong>in</strong>g<br />
and Tourism, while <strong>the</strong> tourist organisations were founded <strong>in</strong> 1952 and 1953.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same time, similar changes were happen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, only at <strong>the</strong> lower adm<strong>in</strong>istrative<br />
level. A subsidiary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Land <strong>Hotel</strong> Enterprise, which was to revive <strong>the</strong> old hotels and<br />
restaurants, was founded <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1945. The first director was Dimitrije Nastašić. When<br />
<strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>in</strong>ventory was procured <strong>in</strong> 1946, it was stated that it was not required for <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong>, as its <strong>in</strong>ventory had been preserved. <strong>Rijeka</strong> was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three subsidiaries <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Land <strong>Hotel</strong> Enterprise – apart from Split and Dubrovnik, while its seat was <strong>in</strong> Zagreb.<br />
The City <strong>Hotel</strong> Enterprise was founded on 1st March 1947, although <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> was not<br />
<strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> that company as <strong>the</strong> army was still stationed <strong>the</strong>re. On 1st May 1947, all <strong>the</strong> hotels<br />
and restaurants <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> and Sušak merged <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> City <strong>Hotel</strong> Enterprise, and Mr. Josip<br />
Strelov became <strong>the</strong> director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>. The City <strong>Hotel</strong> Enterprise existed until 1949,<br />
when <strong>the</strong> adm<strong>in</strong>istration <strong>of</strong> hotel companies was formed, with Branka Maričić at its head. On<br />
1st May 1951, <strong>the</strong> Adm<strong>in</strong>istration was dissolved and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> became an autonomous<br />
company toge<strong>the</strong>r with its annex, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> Zagreb (ex Royal, ex Reale) on <strong>the</strong> Korzo.<br />
Regard<strong>in</strong>g supplies <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotels, everyth<strong>in</strong>g functioned to an extent until 1948, when <strong>the</strong><br />
situation suddenly deteriorated. The year 1949 was <strong>the</strong> worst, <strong>the</strong>re was no beef, <strong>the</strong> most<br />
common meals were two poached eggs with sp<strong>in</strong>ach or fried anchovies, mackerel or hake.<br />
Veal returned to <strong>the</strong> menu <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1950s. Chicken was commonly served, <strong>in</strong> such a way that<br />
live chickens were kept on <strong>the</strong> hotel terrace <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter and <strong>the</strong>n were slaughtered when needed.<br />
The menu thus had roast chicken, fried chicken, chicken stew...<br />
W<strong>in</strong>e was taken <strong>in</strong> barrels, but a certa<strong>in</strong> amount was reserved for lunch or d<strong>in</strong>ner. If that<br />
amount was consumed, <strong>the</strong>re was noth<strong>in</strong>g to be done. Imported dr<strong>in</strong>ks immediately<br />
disappeared after <strong>the</strong> war, and it was a real sensation when Campari obta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> Trieste<br />
appeared.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> 1950s, <strong>the</strong> old piano teacher, Ms Boccul<strong>in</strong>i played <strong>the</strong> piano <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>gs, and<br />
received a d<strong>in</strong>ner as her salary. The hotel apprentices all slept <strong>in</strong> one room with eight beds at<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> Zagreb.<br />
Regardless <strong>of</strong> all hotels, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> was still <strong>the</strong> central city hotel, although workers were<br />
unwill<strong>in</strong>g to visit its cafe, as it kept <strong>the</strong> pre-war overly civic atmosphere.<br />
In 1952, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> was an A category hotel, still at <strong>the</strong> same address <strong>of</strong> Edmondo de<br />
Amicis No 4, with 64 rooms and 97 beds. The restaurant was still <strong>the</strong> most important part <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> hotel, but <strong>the</strong>re were also <strong>the</strong> bar & café and <strong>the</strong> terrace, and <strong>the</strong> central heat<strong>in</strong>g and lift<br />
were also mentioned. Over <strong>the</strong> summer, <strong>the</strong>re was a small bar with a ro<strong>of</strong> terrace. The Zagreb<br />
annex, a B category hotel, had 34 rooms and 53 beds. In Sušak, <strong>the</strong>re was also <strong>the</strong> Neboder<br />
15
hotel, which opened <strong>in</strong> 1949 with 81 beds, <strong>the</strong> Kont<strong>in</strong>ental with 68 beds, <strong>the</strong> Park with 74 and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Jadran with 65 beds.<br />
The ma<strong>in</strong> restaurants were <strong>the</strong> Gradski restaurant, <strong>the</strong> Zlatna školjka, <strong>the</strong> Istra and <strong>the</strong> Klarić,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> most prom<strong>in</strong>ent cafés were <strong>the</strong> Gradska, <strong>the</strong> Narodna, <strong>the</strong> Sport, <strong>the</strong> Učka, <strong>the</strong><br />
Express, <strong>the</strong> Rječ<strong>in</strong>a and <strong>the</strong> Korzo. The most notable bars were <strong>the</strong> Neboder and <strong>the</strong> Plavi<br />
Jadran (ex Sala bianca), <strong>the</strong>n <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> Partizan c<strong>in</strong>ema.<br />
In 1952, <strong>the</strong>re were 70,421 tourists <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, with 200,511 tourist nights, with an average<br />
stay <strong>of</strong> 2.8 days. In comparison, 31,342 tourists visited Opatija, but due to <strong>the</strong> average stay <strong>of</strong><br />
9.5 days, <strong>the</strong>re were 301,342 tourist stays. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to those numbers, at state level, <strong>in</strong> 1952,<br />
<strong>Rijeka</strong> participated with 4% <strong>of</strong> tourists and 3.5% <strong>of</strong> tourist stays.<br />
The old Lujz<strong>in</strong>ska road between Zagreb and <strong>Rijeka</strong> was f<strong>in</strong>ally asphalted <strong>in</strong> 1954, which had<br />
a partially adverse effect to <strong>the</strong> stay <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tourists <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, i.e. <strong>the</strong>y started to transit <strong>the</strong> city<br />
quickly.<br />
The build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Girls' School <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>, which was almost totally damaged dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
bomb<strong>in</strong>g and a fire <strong>in</strong> early 1945, was f<strong>in</strong>ally rebuilt <strong>in</strong> 1955. The refurbished build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>in</strong><br />
sharp contrast to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>'s entrance, now hosted <strong>the</strong> Scientific Library and <strong>the</strong> Modern<br />
Art Gallery. As <strong>the</strong> always <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g Club <strong>of</strong> Culture Workers started its operation on <strong>the</strong><br />
ground floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eastern w<strong>in</strong>g, this part <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> rega<strong>in</strong>ed part <strong>of</strong> its urban features.<br />
The year 1959 saw <strong>the</strong> open<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a café on <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Neboder hotel, car traffic on <strong>the</strong><br />
Korzo was banned, while <strong>the</strong> city transport was based on trolley-buses - however <strong>the</strong> most<br />
<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g fact for us rema<strong>in</strong>s that <strong>the</strong> Executive Council <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> People's Republic <strong>of</strong> Croatia<br />
approved <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>vestment for <strong>the</strong> expansion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> hotel. Construction works were<br />
drafted by <strong>the</strong> experts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lučić-Frančić-Sulowski Civil Eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g Institute, while <strong>the</strong><br />
eng<strong>in</strong>eers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong>-projekt drafted <strong>in</strong>stallations.<br />
"The basic concept <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>vestment programme is that a new residential w<strong>in</strong>g will be built<br />
on <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> two exist<strong>in</strong>g residential build<strong>in</strong>gs. The first <strong>of</strong> those build<strong>in</strong>gs is completely<br />
owned by <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>vestor, and was thus bought for hotel expansion. The second build<strong>in</strong>g is also<br />
for <strong>the</strong> most part owned by <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>vestor, while <strong>the</strong> rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g share must be bought. Both<br />
build<strong>in</strong>gs are completely deteriorated, so were scheduled for demolition regardless <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>vestment. At <strong>the</strong> same time, <strong>the</strong> exist<strong>in</strong>g hotel will be rebuilt and modernised <strong>in</strong> order to<br />
achieve functional and architectural unity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old and new parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel…<br />
The present functional scheme <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> has many disadvantages.<br />
The facility has only one entrance, <strong>the</strong> kitchen is located <strong>in</strong> a small annexed build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
yard, it is squeezed <strong>in</strong> and does not have a suitable food store; <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> hotel<br />
restaurant is not controlled, and <strong>the</strong> toilets are directly connected to <strong>the</strong> restaurant premises;<br />
<strong>the</strong> central heat<strong>in</strong>g boiler room is <strong>in</strong>sufficient and completely deteriorated.<br />
The café bar is only accessible from <strong>the</strong> street, while <strong>the</strong> small banquet hall is only accessible<br />
from <strong>the</strong> restaurant.<br />
16
There is only one stairway <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g and one personal lift which is deteriorated, room<br />
service is not organized; <strong>the</strong> laundry room is located on <strong>the</strong> terrace, so vertical<br />
communications used by guests are also used for <strong>the</strong> transfer <strong>of</strong> laundry and gas.<br />
The ro<strong>of</strong> terrace is small, and can only be accessed through <strong>the</strong> hotel stairway or <strong>the</strong> lift,<br />
which is unsusta<strong>in</strong>able.» 10<br />
As opposed to <strong>the</strong> previous capacities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> with 95 beds, <strong>the</strong> expansion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sixfloor<br />
(and later, seven-floor) build<strong>in</strong>g, it is conceived that <strong>the</strong> hotel will have 382 beds. The<br />
ground floor will be reserved for a large restaurant, while <strong>the</strong> first floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
should become a large room for day activities and enterta<strong>in</strong>ment. A danc<strong>in</strong>g bar has been<br />
designed for <strong>the</strong> basement, while <strong>the</strong> suites will be located at <strong>the</strong> top floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel.<br />
Vertical communication will be carried out by means <strong>of</strong> several lifts: for guests, for staff, for<br />
luggage and for room service and cater<strong>in</strong>g. Shortly after, <strong>in</strong> April 1959 it was believed that all<br />
construction work and <strong>in</strong>terior decorations would be completed <strong>in</strong> two and a half years, which<br />
proved overly optimistic.<br />
Various problems occurred, from buy<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f 16 apartments <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs that were<br />
scheduled for demolition (ex hotel Nazionale), to <strong>the</strong> problems with ra<strong>in</strong> water which made<br />
lay<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> foundations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new build<strong>in</strong>g impossible. Real construction work started <strong>in</strong><br />
1962, and <strong>in</strong> 1964, <strong>the</strong> situation was as follows:<br />
"Four floors have been built, and tomorrow, <strong>the</strong> new hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong> at Dolac will be <strong>in</strong>creased<br />
by one floor. Construction work has been done quickly, after <strong>the</strong> workers <strong>of</strong> Jadran had many<br />
difficulties lay<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> foundations <strong>of</strong> this big and representative hotel build<strong>in</strong>g over <strong>the</strong> last<br />
year. It is assumed that <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> this new seven-floor hotel will be f<strong>in</strong>ished by May. At <strong>the</strong><br />
beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g year, <strong>the</strong> hotel will be able to accept its first guests. The old<br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong> has normal bus<strong>in</strong>ess operations and has already accepted its first guests from<br />
England. In late March, we are expect<strong>in</strong>g a group <strong>of</strong> fifty Austrians who will stay at <strong>the</strong> hotel,<br />
travell<strong>in</strong>g to a number <strong>of</strong> Adriatic dest<strong>in</strong>ations. By <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season, <strong>the</strong> famous<br />
garden restaurant <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong> will also be open. It will be more spacious and<br />
beautiful than before.» 11<br />
In <strong>the</strong> optimistic age <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1960s, when Yugoslavia had magnificent economic results and<br />
when <strong>the</strong> state was open<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> West, at <strong>the</strong> time when <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rijeka</strong> was constantly<br />
<strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g its traffic, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> was outranked by <strong>the</strong> hotel Jadran on Peć<strong>in</strong>e, which had one<br />
floor added and was completely refurbished on 28th June 1964, on its 50th anniversary.<br />
The subsequent delay <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> construction work on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong> was related to <strong>the</strong> issues <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
delivery <strong>of</strong> construction materials, and with <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> a competent workforce <strong>in</strong> season.<br />
"When it was designed and dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> construction works, <strong>the</strong> eng<strong>in</strong>eers and tourism and<br />
cater<strong>in</strong>g experts thought that <strong>the</strong> future <strong>Bonavia</strong> should be a representative hotel <strong>of</strong> B<br />
category, dedicated to transit tourism. The arrangement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> premises and <strong>the</strong> adjustment <strong>of</strong><br />
comfort for <strong>the</strong> users <strong>of</strong> this hotel was executed for that purpose. Central heat<strong>in</strong>g was<br />
<strong>in</strong>troduced to all premises, an automatic telephone box with connections to all rooms was<br />
17
<strong>in</strong>stalled, all rooms had <strong>the</strong>ir own toilet facilities and a signall<strong>in</strong>g device. An air-condition<strong>in</strong>g<br />
device will be <strong>in</strong>stalled <strong>in</strong> all common rooms (restaurant, café, bar, social rooms, reception,<br />
banquet hall). The hotel will also have a barbers and hairdressers.» 12<br />
Precisely six years after <strong>the</strong> drafts were made, <strong>the</strong> new <strong>Bonavia</strong> received its first guests on<br />
27th April 1965, but construction work was still go<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> bar and on <strong>the</strong> ground floor<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g. The hotel soon outperformed all o<strong>the</strong>r facilities <strong>in</strong> town and <strong>the</strong> region by <strong>the</strong><br />
level <strong>of</strong> its service, as it had first place <strong>in</strong> contemporary tourist polls, with huge advantage <strong>in</strong><br />
po<strong>in</strong>ts for its service, quality and choice, as well as <strong>in</strong> its <strong>in</strong>terior design.<br />
The perfect service and a great restaurant attracted <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g guests <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1960s. The actress<br />
Bel<strong>in</strong>da Lee who was very popular at <strong>the</strong> time and for whom oranges were brought from<br />
Trieste stayed <strong>the</strong>re, Kirk Douglas stayed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel on several occasions, although he d<strong>in</strong>ed<br />
mostly <strong>in</strong> restaurants <strong>in</strong> Opatija. Many famous actors and actresses have stayed at <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Bonavia</strong>: Frederic March, Stewart Granger, Maria Schell, Curd Jurgens, <strong>the</strong> famous director,<br />
Orson Welles, <strong>the</strong> Italian s<strong>in</strong>gers Claudio Villa, Pep<strong>in</strong>o di Capri, Toni Dallara and Nella Pizzi.<br />
It is <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g that important politicians have not stayed at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>, but <strong>the</strong> writer<br />
Miroslav Krleža <strong>of</strong>ten stayed <strong>the</strong>re with his wife Bela. This well-known writer and <strong>the</strong> arbiter<br />
<strong>of</strong> spiritual elegance always reproached <strong>the</strong> hotel name, demand<strong>in</strong>g that it should be changed<br />
<strong>in</strong>to someth<strong>in</strong>g more appropriate to <strong>the</strong> contemporary system. As a guest, he was extremely<br />
grumpy, with numerous objections. But <strong>in</strong>, say, 1968, Krleža was only one <strong>of</strong> 216,000 guests<br />
with a total <strong>of</strong> 487,000 tourist nights. The numbers dropped after that time, so <strong>in</strong> 1983 <strong>the</strong>re<br />
were only 120,000 guests and 232,000 overnight stays.<br />
In 1970s and 1980s, <strong>the</strong> hotel was famous for its Capta<strong>in</strong>'s Club <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel basement. It had a<br />
very low ceil<strong>in</strong>g but great enterta<strong>in</strong>ment. The members <strong>of</strong> staff were dressed as <strong>of</strong>ficers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
merchant navy.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> 1980s, frequent guests <strong>in</strong>cluded actors Mustafa Nadarević, Boris Dvornik, Aljoša<br />
Vučković, <strong>the</strong> famous opera s<strong>in</strong>ger Vladimir Ruždjak, <strong>the</strong> writer Miljenko Smoje from Split,<br />
who was famous for his legendary TV series Malo misto.<br />
The hotel was closed for refurbishment from 18th March 1999 to 12th March 2000. The hotel<br />
took on a completely new façade based on <strong>the</strong> rhythmical change <strong>of</strong> glass parts and <strong>the</strong> parts<br />
made <strong>of</strong> dark gray stone, based on <strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Remik studio from <strong>Rijeka</strong>, which was<br />
managed by <strong>the</strong> architect Jasenka Rechner. Beside its four stars, it rega<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> mark<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Grand</strong> hotel <strong>Bonavia</strong>, and was also <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Goran Štrok hotel cha<strong>in</strong>, known as Wren's<br />
after <strong>the</strong> famous English classicist architect Sir Christopher Wren. The cha<strong>in</strong> has five<br />
exclusive hotels <strong>in</strong> England and Scotland: Sir Christopher Wren's House <strong>Hotel</strong>, under <strong>the</strong><br />
walls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> W<strong>in</strong>dsor Castle, Taplow House <strong>Hotel</strong>, Wyck Hill House <strong>Hotel</strong>, Cr<strong>in</strong>gletie House<br />
<strong>Hotel</strong> and Auchterarder House <strong>Hotel</strong>.<br />
Over thirty million DEM (15 million EUR) were spent <strong>in</strong> refurbishment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Bonavia</strong>. The<br />
hotel has 114 rooms, 6 suites, a presidential suite, a restaurant, <strong>the</strong> small Louis café (named<br />
after Louis Armstrong, <strong>the</strong> legendary jazz musician) and Dante (after <strong>the</strong> old Piazza Dante),<br />
18
with a large terrace recl<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Municipium, three multifunctional conference rooms:<br />
Jozef<strong>in</strong>a, Karol<strong>in</strong>a and Lujzijana, named after <strong>the</strong> three historical roads that connected <strong>the</strong><br />
shore and <strong>the</strong> h<strong>in</strong>terland.<br />
To a large extent, Renata Štrok was responsible for <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terior design, and her ideas were<br />
realised by <strong>the</strong> architects from <strong>the</strong> Art <strong>in</strong>terijeri studio from Zagreb. Great care was taken with<br />
regard to detail. The colour beige is predom<strong>in</strong>ant on <strong>the</strong> first four floors and all furniture,<br />
wallpapers and decor were created <strong>in</strong> that tone. The fifth floor has a white tone, whilst <strong>the</strong><br />
sixth and <strong>the</strong> seventh floors have a comb<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> beige and green.<br />
The six very comfortable suites are equipped with unique designer light walnut furniture,<br />
whilst <strong>the</strong> residential suite is designed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Biedermeier style, that is, <strong>the</strong> style which was<br />
common <strong>in</strong> Europe <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> period between 1830 and 1860. Some bathrooms were designed <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Bauhaus style (1920s Germany), or <strong>the</strong> Jugendstil style (1900s Austria), while <strong>the</strong><br />
restaurant has an art-deco style, which emerged from Jugendstil and <strong>the</strong> Secession. The hotel<br />
walls hold a number <strong>of</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs by Mila Štrok, <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Mr. Goran Štrok. The hotel<br />
was thus given a certa<strong>in</strong> domestic touch.<br />
The open<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel on 12th March 2000 was attended by many reputable guests and<br />
friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Štrok family from <strong>the</strong> United K<strong>in</strong>gdom, as well as Croatian celebrities.<br />
The <strong>Bonavia</strong> <strong>Hotel</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> places where we can meet urban <strong>Rijeka</strong>, where we can feel<br />
<strong>the</strong> spirit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Croatian Littoral, as well as <strong>the</strong> hospitality <strong>of</strong> this city with 2000 years <strong>of</strong><br />
quite difficult, but <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g history.<br />
Notes:<br />
1. Lukežić, Irv<strong>in</strong>: Životopis Andrije Ljudevita Adamića iz knjige Grupa autora:<br />
Adamićevo doba, 1780.-1830., <strong>Rijeka</strong>, 2005.<br />
2. Državni arhiv <strong>Rijeka</strong> ( DAR ), JU-36, Industrijski spisi br. 216/1876., Felice Eckerl,<br />
registracija obrta; Industrijski spisi br. 104/1877.- registracija obrta.<br />
3. La Bilancia, <strong>Rijeka</strong>, 8. lipnja 1876.<br />
4. DAR JU-36, Industrijski spisi, Luigi Sp<strong>in</strong>ozzi, br. 209/1877.<br />
5. Comisso, Giovanni: Le mie stagioni, Milano, 1963., str. 21<br />
6. Kochnitzky, Leone: La qu<strong>in</strong>ta stagione o centauri di Fiume, Bologna, 1922., str. 58<br />
7. Crnković, Nikola: Procjena šteta nastalih uslijed D'Annunzijeve okupacije Rijeke,<br />
Argumenti, <strong>Rijeka</strong>, 1983., br. 1-2, str. 94<br />
8. Rotim-Malvić, Jasna: Javna arhitektura međuratne Rijeke, u katalogu Grupa autora:<br />
Moderna arhitektura Rijeke, <strong>Rijeka</strong>, 1996., str. 50<br />
9. DAR, PR 8, kut. 608. br. 72/46, Giovanni Pavella – Viši sud za Istru i Rijeku na<br />
Rijeci, dana 20. VI. 1947.<br />
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10. DAR, JU 7, kut. 121, Investicijski program dogradnje i adaptacije hotela <strong>Bonavia</strong>, str.<br />
4-5<br />
11. NN: Raste hotel, Novi list, <strong>Rijeka</strong>, 13. ožujka, 1964., str. 4<br />
12. Kosier, S.: Do kraja 1965. kompletna <strong>Bonavia</strong>, Novi list, 23. rujna 1964., str. 4<br />
13. Mimica-Ignatoski, Kar<strong>in</strong>, urednica: 100 vodećih hrvatskih restorana, <strong>Rijeka</strong>, str. 68<br />
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