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Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°16 - € 2.90<br />
N°5 - 6Lt<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>LJUBLJANA</strong><br />
February - March 2011<br />
Prešeren Day<br />
February 8th is Slovenia’s national<br />
day of culture, which means no work<br />
and free museums!<br />
Pokal Vitranc & Planica<br />
Two of Europe’s biggest ski<br />
competitions take place in March
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Ljubljana 6<br />
Getting around 7<br />
Ba<strong>si</strong>cs 9<br />
Statistics, politics and where to find the loo<br />
History 10<br />
2,000 years in 800 words<br />
Language 11<br />
Culture & Events 12<br />
Mu<strong>si</strong>c, festivals and exhibitions 12<br />
Cultural centres and venues 15<br />
Ski Centres 19<br />
A day on the slopes is only 20 minutes away<br />
Where to stay 20<br />
Bu<strong>si</strong>ness suites to hostel bunks<br />
Despite being hidden away in the basement under<br />
Kinoteka, Bon Appétit is one of Ljubljana’s most romantic<br />
restaurants - of course the fact that it’s authentically<br />
French surely helps.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Contents<br />
In 2011 Slovenia celebrates its 20th year of independence,<br />
culminating in a major ‘Homecoming’ event that will be held<br />
on 1 July in Ljubljana. See www.twenty.<strong>si</strong> for more info<br />
Dining & Nightlife 29<br />
Where to eat 29<br />
Everything from A to V(egetarian)<br />
Cafés 40<br />
Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes<br />
Nightlife 39<br />
Dance and drink the night away<br />
What to see 49<br />
Bridges, museums and the castle<br />
Where to shop 58<br />
The best of what and where to buy<br />
Slovenia Wine Guide 64<br />
Highlights from three wine regions<br />
Directory 66<br />
Lifestyle 66<br />
Bu<strong>si</strong>ness 67<br />
Maps & Index<br />
Street Register 69<br />
City centre map 70<br />
City map 72<br />
Country map 74<br />
Index 75<br />
February - March 2011<br />
3
4 Foreword<br />
What was predicted to be the coldest winter in years has<br />
mercifully failed to live up to expectations, while ample snow<br />
in the mountains and a recent spate of beautiful sunny<br />
weather has left both skiers and fans of drinking coffee<br />
at river<strong>si</strong>de cafés perfectly contented. We encourage the<br />
former group to check out our guide to Slovenia’s numerous<br />
ski resorts (p 19) - and vote for their favourite in our new<br />
online poll - while the latter can find a couple of new places to<br />
get their caffeine fix in our updated Cafés section (p 37).<br />
After a slight lull in activity over the holidays there is also once<br />
again a full slate of cultural events during the coming months,<br />
including a series of concerts in honour of one-time Ljubljana<br />
re<strong>si</strong>dent Gustav Mahler, English language stand-up comedy,<br />
some experimental Yugoslavian films at the Museum of Modern<br />
Art and a concert by Ethiopian jazz legend Mulatu Astatke,<br />
among many others (p 12). You’ll want to mark 8 February down<br />
on your calendar, as Slovenia’s national day of culture is not only<br />
a work-free day but most museums, galleries and other cultural<br />
institutions also waive their admis<strong>si</strong>on fees.<br />
And finally, congratulations to all the winners and finalists<br />
of our Best Ljubljana Nightlife poll, and a big thanks to the<br />
thousands of people who cast their votes over the past<br />
month - the results can be viewed in detail on page 47. As<br />
always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook,<br />
Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.<br />
Cover story<br />
One of architect Jože Plečnik’s finest<br />
creations, the National Univer<strong>si</strong>ty library<br />
(p 52) is known for its monumental<br />
stature and somewhat impo<strong>si</strong>ng façade.<br />
However, it is the exqui<strong>si</strong>te attention<br />
to detail which makes the building<br />
truly amazing. One such example, and<br />
a favourite subject of both amateur and<br />
profes<strong>si</strong>onal photographers, are the<br />
incredible horse head door handles of the building’s main<br />
entrance on Turjaška Ulica.<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket<br />
Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana<br />
Slovenia<br />
Tel. +386 30 316 602<br />
ljubljana@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc.<br />
niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1855-3486<br />
©IQBATOR d.o.o.<br />
Printed Schwartz<br />
Published Published <strong>si</strong>x times per<br />
year<br />
Maps Monolit d.o.o.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Yuri Barron<br />
Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig<br />
Turp, Richard Schofield, Francisco<br />
Alvarez, Elliott Foxton, Patrick Byrne<br />
Layout & De<strong>si</strong>gn Vaida Gudynaitė<br />
Consulting Craig Turp<br />
Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourism,<br />
Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam,<br />
Betina Ribeiro, Flavio Takemoto<br />
Cover photo Barbara Jakše and Stane<br />
Jeršič<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
Sales & Operations Management<br />
Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar,<br />
Biljana Maletič, Katja Šneler, Mojca<br />
Slovša<br />
Europe In Your Pocket<br />
In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of<br />
late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands<br />
(Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in<br />
Croatia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in<br />
Serbia (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). A new<br />
guide to Minsk, Belarus, will be the next In Your<br />
Pocket to launch.<br />
We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to<br />
all our cities. We will be launching even more In<br />
Your Pocket guides as apps throughout 2011:<br />
to find out which cities we will be covering, and<br />
to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news<br />
and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook<br />
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Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.<br />
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights<br />
reserved. No part of this publication<br />
may be reproduced in any form, except<br />
brief extracts for the purpose of review,<br />
without written permis<strong>si</strong>on from the<br />
publisher and copyright owner. The<br />
brand name In Your Pocket is used under<br />
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių<br />
10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212<br />
29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of In Your Pocket<br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
adverti<strong>si</strong>ng. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
respon<strong>si</strong>bility for changes and errors.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
EuroBasket 2013<br />
At a meeting in Munich<br />
o n 5 D e c e m b e r<br />
2010, the Board of<br />
FIBA Europe chose<br />
Slovenia to host the<br />
European basketball<br />
championships in the<br />
s u m m e r o f 2 01 3!<br />
Slovenia’s love for the<br />
game and success in<br />
recent international<br />
tournaments was a major factor in securing what will be the<br />
country’s largest sporting event. Most of the games, or at<br />
least the final ones, will be held in the new Stožice sports<br />
arena in Ljubljana, while others will be held in soon to be built<br />
sports halls in Novo Mesto, Maribor, Celje and Ptuj.<br />
Ljubljana’s PR! among the finalists at 2010 Digital<br />
Magazine Awards<br />
The electronic ver<strong>si</strong>on of PR! magazine, issued by Ljubljana<br />
Tourism for tourism experts, foreign journalists, tour and<br />
meeting organisers from abroad, reached the finals of<br />
the Digital Magazine Awards 2010 in the category of<br />
travel magazines of the year. Each year, the international<br />
Digital Magazine Awards are granted to the best digital<br />
magazines and their creators in fifteen categories. The<br />
selection panel, comprised of luminaries from the digital<br />
magazine industry, judges the magazines based on their<br />
level of innovation, appealing style and de<strong>si</strong>gn, content,<br />
and effectiveness with target audiences.<br />
Ljubljana IYP on Facebook<br />
Can’t wait for the next<br />
issue of Ljubljana In<br />
Your Pocket? Vi<strong>si</strong>t our<br />
Facebook fan page<br />
to get your daily fix of<br />
snarky comments,<br />
travel and entertainment<br />
news, restaurant<br />
and nightlife tips,<br />
and lots more random<br />
Ljubljana-related info.<br />
Some of our regular features include polls on the best of<br />
what the city has to offer, date night recommendations<br />
and videos teaching everyday Slovene. It’s also the best<br />
place on the web to ask questions you may have about<br />
the Slovene capital. And if that’s not enough we also<br />
like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant<br />
vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Be<strong>si</strong>des, who<br />
couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on<br />
the internet?<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
in the news<br />
Gold Medal at Shanghai Expo<br />
At the clo<strong>si</strong>ng ceremony of the Shanghai Expo 2010, the<br />
Slovenian pavilion, dedicated to Ljubljana, the current<br />
World Book Capital, was awarded the gold medal for<br />
creative interior de<strong>si</strong>gn in the category of up to 2000m²<br />
pavilions. This prestigious award places Slovenia<br />
amongst the countries whose pavilions received the<br />
highest acclaim at the Shanghai Expo 2010. The pavilion,<br />
which at 1000m² was one of the smaller ones at the<br />
exhibition, was de<strong>si</strong>gned by the architect Boris Podrecca<br />
and the artist Matej Andraž Vogrinčič.<br />
Ljubljana World Book Capital<br />
Named as the UNESCO World Book<br />
Capital for 2010, Ljubljana officially<br />
ends its reign on 23 April 2011. The<br />
honour has been both a recognition<br />
of Slovenia’s long-standing literary<br />
tradition, as well as an affirmation of<br />
Ljubljana’s status as an international<br />
tourist destination. Since the first<br />
Slovene book was published by Primož<br />
Trubar in 1550, literature has held<br />
an especially important place in<br />
Slovenia’s cultural landscape, and as<br />
recently as 20 years ago the country led Europe in books<br />
published per capita. There are still many events left on<br />
the Book Capital programme - see www.vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<br />
com for a full listing.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
February - March 2011<br />
5
6 Arriving in LjubLjAnA<br />
Officially part of the Schengen zone <strong>si</strong>nce late 2007 and<br />
nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agreement<br />
countries, entering Slovenia has never been ea<strong>si</strong>er.<br />
With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways<br />
throughout the country, getting around is also fairly<br />
easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning<br />
public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.<br />
Arriving by plane<br />
Ljubljana‘s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest<br />
of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about<br />
30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is<br />
coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus<br />
(€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the<br />
airport‘s web<strong>si</strong>te for a complete schedule.<br />
Arriving by train<br />
Once you‘ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and<br />
made it to the main train station building, find everything<br />
you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up<br />
cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts.<br />
Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated<br />
lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with<br />
the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also<br />
boasts a surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly good Tourist Information Centre, a<br />
train information bureau immediately to the right and currency<br />
exchange oppo<strong>si</strong>te (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends<br />
as always on where you‘re planning to stay and how fit<br />
you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking<br />
distance. Alternatively, find taxis out<strong>si</strong>de, and make sure<br />
the meter is running before you depart.<br />
Arriving by bus<br />
All national and international buses arrive at the central<br />
bus station which is located directly in front of the main<br />
train station. The ‚temporary‘ prefabricated station building<br />
features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals,<br />
making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps<br />
the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station<br />
does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only<br />
other useful facility being a small internet café for which<br />
tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to<br />
town is the same as described above.<br />
Located on Erjavceva just south of Tivoli, this graffiti was<br />
apparently done to commemorate the <strong>si</strong>xteenth issue of<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket<br />
A Word From Our Mayor<br />
For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world<br />
– unique for its special po<strong>si</strong>tion in the heart of Slovenia.<br />
As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts<br />
ever more vi<strong>si</strong>tors every year from near and far. The most<br />
important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly<br />
our re<strong>si</strong>dents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with<br />
their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure<br />
a touch of comfort and warmth.<br />
Welcome to Ljubljana!<br />
Arriving by car<br />
Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and<br />
excellent <strong>si</strong>gnposting. The city is circled by a ring road<br />
from where it‘s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the<br />
parking <strong>si</strong>gns for convenient places to leave your car near<br />
the city centre. Once in the city, it‘s best to walk the short<br />
distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and<br />
narrow street. Also, if you‘re staying in Old Ljubljana be<br />
aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.<br />
If Things Go Wrong<br />
The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue,<br />
andambulance and 113 for police. If pos<strong>si</strong>ble, find<br />
someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the<br />
call <strong>si</strong>ncethere is no guarantee of finding an English<br />
speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit<br />
(Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at<br />
Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana<br />
(D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of<br />
EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharmacies,<br />
dentists, andother services in the directory. You<br />
can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the<br />
police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for<br />
all embas<strong>si</strong>escan be found here under Foreign Representation<br />
in the directory.Useful Emergency Words:<br />
NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP!<br />
ga<strong>si</strong>lci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen<br />
policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police<br />
bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital<br />
Zoran Janković<br />
Mayor<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Urbana Card<br />
Th e c i t y b u s<br />
operator, LPP,<br />
has finally int<br />
r o d u c e d t h e<br />
l o n g - a w a i t e d<br />
U r b a n a C a rd,<br />
a form of electronic<br />
ticketing<br />
that will eventuall<br />
y replace<br />
t h e p r e v i o u s<br />
hodge-podge<br />
system of payment<br />
that included<br />
tokens,<br />
coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-<strong>si</strong>zed smart<br />
card is <strong>si</strong>milar to those already used in other cities,<br />
such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass.<br />
The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2<br />
at many locations including various tobacconists and<br />
news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station<br />
and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta<br />
160. Credit can be added for any amount between<br />
€1-50 at these same locations as well as some three<br />
dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around<br />
town. When getting on the bus <strong>si</strong>mply touch the card<br />
to one of the green card readers at the front entrance<br />
and €0.80 will be deducted from the card allowing 90<br />
minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers.<br />
Public Transport<br />
Although most of Ljubljana‘s <strong>si</strong>ghts are within easy walking<br />
distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people<br />
(and you can trust us as we‘re proud card carrying members<br />
of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient<br />
bus network for reaching attractions farther afield,<br />
such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant<br />
Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the<br />
city looks like out<strong>si</strong>de the city centre. Although you may<br />
be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the<br />
roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so<br />
most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While<br />
nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only<br />
the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for<br />
some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced<br />
Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers<br />
costs only €0.80.<br />
Trains<br />
Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable<br />
job of running an efficient network with clean modern<br />
trains that are usually on time. Their web<strong>si</strong>te (www.slozeleznice.<strong>si</strong>)<br />
contains a wealth of information in English,<br />
including live information on train delays as well as an<br />
online timetable. See the national and international train<br />
schedules in this guide for the main destinations.<br />
Train Station (Železniška Postaja) E-1, Trg Osvobodilne<br />
Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@<br />
slo-zeleznice.<strong>si</strong>, www.slo-zeleznice.<strong>si</strong>. Full of nice touches<br />
such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the<br />
platforms, Ljubljana‘s reasonably central train station just<br />
north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced<br />
by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting Around<br />
information on several of the station‘s facilities, plus, if you‘re<br />
planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a<br />
1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with<br />
<strong>si</strong>gns and departure screens in English.<br />
Buses<br />
Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg<br />
Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386)<br />
12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
ap-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. Essentially a large caravan without any<br />
wheels, Ljubljana‘s temporary central bus station couldn‘t<br />
be ea<strong>si</strong>er to use. Enter through one of the doors at either<br />
end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go.<br />
Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you<br />
should always check in the bus station to make sure. The<br />
bus station operates many national routes as well as regular<br />
international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 -<br />
22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.<br />
Car rental<br />
The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/<br />
hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must<br />
use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel,<br />
warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter,<br />
either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is<br />
0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams<br />
and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Budget D-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 14 21 73 40,<br />
info@budget.<strong>si</strong>, www.budget.<strong>si</strong>. Cars from €40 per day.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office<br />
tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.<br />
Europcar D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20<br />
52, reservations@europcar.<strong>si</strong>, sl.europcar.<strong>si</strong>. Cars from<br />
€36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open<br />
08:00-21:00.<br />
Airport<br />
Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)<br />
Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386)<br />
42 02 12 20, info@lju-airport.<strong>si</strong>, www.lju-airport.<strong>si</strong>. Well<br />
connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations,<br />
Ljubljana‘s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the<br />
city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There‘s<br />
free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a<br />
couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office<br />
Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive<br />
Vinjeta www.dars.<strong>si</strong>. Slovenia requires<br />
all motor vehicles travelling on<br />
Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta<br />
(veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system<br />
exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta<br />
can be ea<strong>si</strong>ly obtained at nearly all<br />
gas stations and kiosks.<br />
Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are<br />
€95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones<br />
are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware<br />
that border police will likely not remind you to purchase<br />
a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely<br />
to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to<br />
do so. For more info check www.dars.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
7
8 getting Around<br />
Taxis<br />
Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable.<br />
The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with<br />
a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the<br />
company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting<br />
usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone<br />
will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.<br />
Elit Taxi Tel. (+386) 41 752 751, elit@elit-taxi.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.elit-taxi.<strong>si</strong>. This friendly well-run taxi company<br />
offers city and airport transfers in a fleet of spotless<br />
new cars and vans. They will also happily drive you<br />
pretty much anywhere in Slovenia (or even surrounding<br />
countries) with special rates for return trips.<br />
Metro Taxi M-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. (+386) 80<br />
11 90.<br />
Taxi Društvo Ljubljana C-2, Gosposvetska 10,<br />
tel. (+386) 1234 90 00, info@taxi-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.taxi-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
(open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30<br />
minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated<br />
with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10,<br />
up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport‘s<br />
web<strong>si</strong>te for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Open 24hrs, airport information from 07:00-23:00.<br />
Airlines<br />
Adria Airways (JP) K-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 13 69<br />
10 00, fax (+386) 14 36 88 06, booking@adria.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
adria.<strong>si</strong>. Slovenia‘s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Copenhagen,<br />
Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick,<br />
Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de<br />
Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport<br />
office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00<br />
Air France (AF) B-4, Igriška 5, tel. (+386) 12 44 34<br />
47, fax (+386) 12 44 34 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr,<br />
www.airfrance.<strong>si</strong>. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
National bus schedule<br />
From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />
First Last City First Last *<br />
06:00 22:30 BLED 05:00 22:30 18-22<br />
10:15 20:10 CELJE 04:50 18:10 5-9<br />
05:10 22:30 GROSUPLJE 04:23 21:45 50<br />
17:20 MURSKA<br />
SOBOTA<br />
05:45 1<br />
05:30 23:00 POSTOJNA 06:07 21:10 20<br />
11:35 17:20 MARIBOR 06:52 13:35 3-4<br />
05:30 23:00 NOVA GORICA 04:45 19:45 15<br />
06:00 21:35 KOPER 04:56 19:30 13<br />
05:30 19:30 JESENICE 05:44 20:44 14<br />
05:15 23:00 KRANJ 04:20 22:15 50<br />
07:10 22:25 NOVO MESTO 05:45 15:28 10<br />
05:30 19:30 KRAJNSKA 05:20 20:20 15<br />
GORA<br />
All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until 31 December<br />
2010. *Buses per day<br />
International train schedule<br />
From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />
First Last City First Last *<br />
06:15 21:15 BELGRADE 05:50 21:50 4<br />
02:00 08:40 BUDAPEST 12:03 16:35 2<br />
08:05 07:25 GRAZ 06:34 18:37 4<br />
09:27 23:50 MUNICH 08:27 23:40 3<br />
09:27 23:50 PRAGUE 07:14 17:11 2<br />
09:27 23:50 SALZBURG 01:34 14:12 3<br />
02:30 VENICE 21:20 1<br />
05:45 17:25 VIENNA 07:56 15:57 3-8<br />
07:26 23:50 VILLACH 04:07 19:27 7<br />
02:00 21:15 ZAGREB 07:00 23:35 7<br />
20:48 ZURICH 21:40 1<br />
All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December<br />
11, 2010. *Trains per day<br />
Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)<br />
42 02 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com.<br />
Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30,<br />
Sun 06:30 - 10:00.<br />
Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)<br />
42 06 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brussels.<br />
QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42<br />
06 17 50, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.<br />
com. Flights to Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+44) 87 06 00<br />
00 00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted and<br />
Paris CDG. Q Airport office tel. (+386) 4 206 16 77. Open<br />
two hours before flights.<br />
Lufthansa C-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 14 34<br />
72 46, lufthansa@adria.<strong>si</strong>, www.lufthansa.de. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) , tel. (+45) 70 10<br />
20 00, www.flysas.com.<br />
Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 4<br />
206 16 80, thyljubljana@<strong>si</strong>ol.com, www.turkishairlines.<br />
com. Flights to Istanbul.<br />
International bus schedule<br />
From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />
First Last City First Last *<br />
12:57 20:20<br />
BANJA LUKA 13:30 13:30 1-3<br />
10:00 22:25 BELGRADE 00:50 21:00 2-3<br />
05:10 05:10 BOLOGNA 15:20 15:20 1<br />
19:45 19:45 BRNO 16:20 16:20 0-1<br />
05:10 08:15 MESTRE<br />
(VENICE)<br />
11:30 17:10 2<br />
18:30 18:30 MUNICH 19:45 19:45 0-1<br />
20:00 20:00 SARAJEVO 15:15 20:40 1-2<br />
20:45 20:45 SOFIA 15:30 15:30 1<br />
15:30 16:00 SKOPJE 15:30 17:00 1-2<br />
05:10 06:35 TRIEST 14:00 19:30 1-2<br />
01:00 01:00 ZAGREB 16:00 16:00 1<br />
All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until 31 December<br />
2010. *Buses per day<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Drinking<br />
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00<br />
it cannot be bought in stores.<br />
Electricity<br />
Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts<br />
AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.<br />
Money<br />
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in<br />
denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros,<br />
while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500<br />
euros. The Slovenian <strong>si</strong>de of the euro coins are decorated with<br />
among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses,<br />
a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik de<strong>si</strong>gn.<br />
Politics<br />
The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The<br />
pre<strong>si</strong>dent, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has<br />
been the prime minister <strong>si</strong>nce 2008. The next parliamentary<br />
elections will be in September 2012. The government con<strong>si</strong>sts of<br />
the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.<br />
Ba<strong>si</strong>c data<br />
Population<br />
Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009)<br />
Ljubljana 266,845 (2004)<br />
Area<br />
20,273 square kilometres<br />
Ethnic compo<strong>si</strong>tion<br />
Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%,<br />
Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7%<br />
Official languages<br />
Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian<br />
Local time<br />
Central European (GMT + 1hr)<br />
Longest river<br />
Sava (221km in Slovenia)<br />
Highest mountain<br />
Triglav 2,864m.<br />
Borders<br />
Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km,<br />
Croatia 670km<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Climate<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
-20<br />
J<br />
Exchange rates<br />
Market values<br />
bA<strong>si</strong>Cs<br />
Rainfall, mm<br />
150<br />
120<br />
F M A M J J A S O<br />
N<br />
D<br />
Religion<br />
Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the<br />
most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37%<br />
of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the<br />
rest of them believing in ‘something’.<br />
Smoking<br />
Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently<br />
banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special<br />
smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.<br />
Tipping<br />
It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10%<br />
for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.<br />
Toilets<br />
Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon<br />
Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik<br />
Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the<br />
Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).<br />
1 EUR € = 1.34 US$ = 0.84 UK£ = 1.29 CHF<br />
= 1.35 AU$ = 110 ¥ = 8.85 CNY<br />
(20 January, 2011)<br />
90<br />
60<br />
30<br />
Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe,<br />
prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable<br />
increases <strong>si</strong>nce the introduction of the Euro in 2007.<br />
Here are some typical everyday products and prices:<br />
Product Price<br />
McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40<br />
Slice of pizza € 1.80<br />
Slice of burek € 2.00<br />
Cup of coffee € 1.10<br />
Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50<br />
Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50<br />
Bottle of local beer in a shop € 0.90<br />
Pint of beer in a pub € 2.40<br />
Pack of cigarettes € 2.50<br />
Single bus ride € 1.00<br />
Movie ticket € 4.90<br />
Postcard € 0.30<br />
Litre of petrol € 1.10<br />
Taxi ride across town € 5.00<br />
Fine for parking illegally € 40<br />
February - March 2011<br />
9
10 history<br />
Many of Ljubljana’s streets are named for major European cultural figures, such as Beethoven<br />
Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known<br />
today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known<br />
to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC<br />
when the Celts started arriving.<br />
Roman times<br />
With the expan<strong>si</strong>on of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the<br />
establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of<br />
the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in<br />
today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time,<br />
Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD,<br />
and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other<br />
early Germanic tribes.<br />
Medieval Ljubljana<br />
Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily<br />
Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and<br />
Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands<br />
during the first few hundred years of this period and the ba<strong>si</strong>c<br />
shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out.<br />
16th to 18th Centuries<br />
Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued<br />
Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in<br />
1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511<br />
and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style.<br />
19th Century<br />
Napoleon vi<strong>si</strong>ts the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the<br />
Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part<br />
of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th<br />
century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first<br />
college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form<br />
it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted<br />
by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city<br />
is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost<br />
completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town<br />
is preserved practically intact.<br />
Between the wars<br />
After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia<br />
becomes part of the State, and then the Kingdom of<br />
the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918,<br />
which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia<br />
in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (1872-<br />
1957) builds many of his most important buildings in the<br />
capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied<br />
by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII.<br />
In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born<br />
in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic<br />
of Yugoslavia.<br />
Socialism & Yugoslavia<br />
Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of<br />
the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of<br />
1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppres<strong>si</strong>ve. Yugoslavs<br />
enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of<br />
the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the<br />
afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity<br />
doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as<br />
the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes<br />
the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia,<br />
officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the<br />
population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on<br />
December 23, 1990.<br />
Independence & Beyond<br />
After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as<br />
the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination<br />
of nationalist pride and bu<strong>si</strong>ness acumen keeps much of<br />
the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the<br />
UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several<br />
weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar,<br />
is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of<br />
the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen<br />
countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU pre<strong>si</strong>dency<br />
for half a year.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter<br />
alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian,<br />
and also shares many words with other Slavic languages.<br />
Although some words and letter combinations may appear<br />
unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly<br />
phonetic language with very few irregularities - although<br />
the letters L and V can do some strange things depending<br />
on their po<strong>si</strong>tion in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak<br />
either English, Italian or German embarras<strong>si</strong>ngly well,<br />
so chances are you won’t have to worry about any communication<br />
problems. However, as with most countries,<br />
attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go<br />
a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd<br />
‘hvala’ and ‘pro<strong>si</strong>m’ won’t go unnoticed.<br />
Pronunciation<br />
c - as in pizza<br />
e - as in egg<br />
j - like y in yogurt<br />
č - like c in cello<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
š - like sh in ship<br />
ž - like s in pleasure<br />
Ba<strong>si</strong>cs<br />
Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay<br />
Ahn-GLESH-ko) ?<br />
I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm)<br />
Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahn-<br />
EESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)?<br />
Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh)<br />
Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn)<br />
Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch)<br />
Yes - Ja (Yah)<br />
No - Ne (Nay)<br />
Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh)<br />
Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a)<br />
Please - Pro<strong>si</strong>m (PRO-seem)<br />
Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay)<br />
Pardon me (asking for help) – Pro<strong>si</strong>m (pro-SEEM)<br />
My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ...<br />
LAnguAge<br />
I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...<br />
Questions<br />
Who? - Kdo?(K-doh)<br />
What? - Kaj?(Kai)<br />
Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay)<br />
When? - Kdaj (K-dai)<br />
How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)?<br />
Signs<br />
Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh)<br />
Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)<br />
Entrance - vhod (oo-hod)<br />
Exit - izhod (eez-hod)<br />
Push – rini (ree-nee)<br />
Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee)<br />
Travelling<br />
Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze)<br />
Train - vlak (v-LOCK)<br />
I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ...<br />
One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, pro<strong>si</strong>m (Eh-noh oo-stop-<br />
NEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)<br />
Bar Talk<br />
One coffee, please - Eno kavo pro<strong>si</strong>m (EH-noh KAH-voh<br />
pro-SEEM)<br />
One beer, please - (Name of beer), pro<strong>si</strong>m (pro-SEEM)<br />
Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!<br />
What’s going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya)<br />
Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo)<br />
You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh<br />
oh-chee)<br />
You’re hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa)<br />
Where are you from? - Iz kje <strong>si</strong>? (iz kye see)<br />
Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko<br />
številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko<br />
shteh-VEEL-koh)?<br />
See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)<br />
Learn Slovene Sponsored by: www.veris.<strong>si</strong><br />
NOUNS AND CASES<br />
Nouns in Slovene language have different forms according to 6 grammatical cases. The use<br />
of a certain form depends on the rest of the sentence, especially on the verb. For example:<br />
Case Example Example Sentence<br />
(m.<strong>si</strong>ng.) (fem.<strong>si</strong>ng.)<br />
Nominative<br />
Genitive<br />
Dative<br />
Accusative<br />
Locative<br />
Instrumental<br />
prijatelj<br />
prijatelja<br />
prijatelju<br />
prijatelja<br />
prijatelju<br />
prijateljem<br />
prijateljica<br />
prijateljice<br />
prijateljici<br />
prijateljico<br />
prijateljici<br />
prijateljico<br />
Prijatelj / prijateljica ima rojstni dan.<br />
A friend has birthday.<br />
Ne vidim prijatelja / prijateljice.<br />
I don't see a friend.<br />
Prijatelju / prijateljici dam žogo.<br />
I give a ball to a friend.<br />
Prijatelja / prijateljico povabim domov.<br />
I invite a friend home.<br />
Pogovarjam se o prijatelju / o prijateljici.<br />
I talk about a friend.<br />
Pogovarjam se s prijateljem / s prijateljico.<br />
I talk to a friend.<br />
The majority of nouns follow the same pattern but there are also many<br />
exceptions that should be taught by heart.<br />
language studio<br />
February - March 2011<br />
11
12 CuLture & events<br />
The Slovenian Philharmonic celebrates one-time Ljubljana re<strong>si</strong>dent Gustav Mahler’s 150th birthday with a series of<br />
concerts throughout the year, photo courtesy of budafest.wordpress.com<br />
MUSIC<br />
Pennywise<br />
7 February 2011<br />
Kino Šiška<br />
Laura Young<br />
9 February 2011<br />
Slovenian Philharmonic<br />
The Young Gods<br />
10 February 2011<br />
Kino Šiška<br />
Elektroliza.21<br />
12 February 2011<br />
Channel Zero (Metelkova)<br />
Budapest Gypsy<br />
Symphony Orchestra<br />
12 February<br />
Centre Stožice<br />
Bee Gees<br />
14 February 2011<br />
Centre Stožice<br />
Jo<strong>si</strong>pa Lisac<br />
15 February 2011<br />
Cankarjev Dom<br />
Nashville Pussy<br />
17 February 2011<br />
Orto Bar<br />
Easy All-Stars<br />
18 Febtruary 2011<br />
Kino Šiška<br />
Jes<strong>si</strong>ca 6<br />
20 February 2011<br />
Kino Šiška<br />
Apocalyptica<br />
22 February 2011<br />
Cvetličarna<br />
Sonata Arctica<br />
26 February 2011<br />
Cvetličarna<br />
Venetian Snares<br />
2 March 2011<br />
Channel Zero<br />
(Metelkova)<br />
Mulatu Atstake<br />
11 March 2011<br />
Kino Šiška<br />
Vaya Con Dios<br />
12 March 2011<br />
Hala Tivoli<br />
Sabaton<br />
14 March 2011<br />
Cvetličarna<br />
Tartini String Quartet<br />
23 March 2011<br />
Slovenian Philharmonic<br />
Paganfest 2011<br />
23 March 2011<br />
Cvetličarna<br />
Gilberto Gil<br />
8 April 2011<br />
Cankarjev Dom<br />
Bonobo<br />
10 April 2011<br />
Kino Šiška<br />
Prešeren Day<br />
08.02 Tuesday<br />
Being the finest poet in the Slovenian language and undisputed<br />
national hero, is of course enough to earn you a<br />
permanent place in the calender. The Slovenian Cultural<br />
Holiday, or Prešernov Dan (Prešeren’s Day) to the locals,<br />
means that the 8th of February is a non-working day. This<br />
national holiday sees many museums in Ljubljana open<br />
their doors for free. The Prešeren Awards and Prešeren<br />
Foundation Awards give the highest Slovenian recognition<br />
for scientific and cultural achievement. The old city of<br />
Kranj, in the great man’s native region (Gorenjska), leads<br />
the celebrations with a street festival in his honour.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
14 CuLture & events<br />
See Antonín Dvorak’s masterpiece Rusalka performed<br />
nightly at Cankarjev Dom from 27 Jan - 4 Feb<br />
Special Events<br />
04.01 Tuesday - 07.07 Thursday<br />
Remote Culture Festival: Visages of Brazil<br />
Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. This<br />
spring, the Cankarjev dom cultural and congress centre<br />
will host a series of events dedicated to Brazilian<br />
culture. The events, held as part of the annual Remote<br />
Culture Festival, will feature Brazilian artists of different<br />
disciplines.<br />
The festival will host several mu<strong>si</strong>c artists including, among<br />
others, Gilberto Gil, Adriana Calcanhotto, and the idiosyncratic<br />
body percus<strong>si</strong>on group Barbatuques, who perform mu<strong>si</strong>c u<strong>si</strong>ng<br />
exclu<strong>si</strong>vely the human body as an instrument.<br />
The festival programme also includes retrospective screenings<br />
of Brazilian films, a performance by the Coletivo improviso<br />
theatre group, an exhibition of photographs by Caio Reisewitz,<br />
famous for his outstanding images of São Paulo, and a number<br />
of other events.<br />
27.01 Thursday - 04.02 Friday<br />
Antonín Dvorak: Rusalka<br />
Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. The opera<br />
Rusalka by the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904)<br />
is con<strong>si</strong>dered to be not only the composer’s most popular<br />
work, but also one of the best Late Romantic operas. Dvořák’s<br />
mu<strong>si</strong>cal fairy tale, a successful fu<strong>si</strong>on of elements from the<br />
world of fairy tales and the real world in a story about the love<br />
between a human prince and a rusalka, a mythological water<br />
nymph, is marked by a richly melodious score and colourful<br />
atmosphere. Q (€15-30).<br />
28.01 Friday - 29.01 Saturday<br />
Panč Stand-Up Comedy Festival<br />
L-2, Cvetličarna, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) 1 430 42 58,<br />
info@festivalstandupkomedije.<strong>si</strong>, www.festivalstandupkomedije.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Now in its third year, the Panč Stand-Up Comedy<br />
Festival will take place in both Ljubljana and Maribor the last<br />
weekend of January, with a line-up of international and Slovene<br />
Mahler In Ljubljana<br />
18.10 Monday - 21.05 Saturday<br />
The Slovenian Philharmonic, Kongresni Trg 10. The<br />
concert cycle Mahler in Ljubljana is dedicated to the<br />
150th birth anniversary of Gustav Mahler, who worked in<br />
Ljubljana as a conductor in the 1881-1882 season. The<br />
concerts, featuring chamber and symphony works, will be<br />
held in the building of the Slovenian Philharmonic, one of<br />
the world’s oldest institutions of the kind.<br />
It was at Ljubljana’s Provincial Theatre that the 21-year-old<br />
Gustav Mahler “learnt his trade” as a conductor. It was<br />
only later that he became a renowned conductor and rose<br />
to fame as one of the greatest European composers.<br />
The concert cycle marking Mahler’s birth anniversary will<br />
be accompanied by a serious of other events, including<br />
a sympo<strong>si</strong>um and an exhibition dedicated to Mahler.<br />
Q €8-12<br />
comedians - with Carly Smallman and Tom Allen hailing from<br />
Britain, Vlatko Štampar and Goran Furjan from Croatia, and<br />
Mladen Pahović, Tin Vodopivec Clement Bučan, Janez Trontelj,<br />
Claudia Vlaj and Mirza Tvrtković from Slovenia. Tickets are<br />
€11, and can be purchased at a variety of outlets, including<br />
online at Eventim.<br />
Exhibitions<br />
25.11 Thursday - 13.02 Sunday<br />
Themes of Antiquity in the work of Francesco<br />
Kavčič/Caucig<br />
National Gallery, Prešernova 24. Themes of Antiquity were<br />
central to the work of the Slovenian clas<strong>si</strong>cal painter Franc<br />
Kavčič/Caucig (1755-1828), who often based his paintings<br />
on lesser known or long-forgotten tales from Antiquity. The<br />
National Gallery exhibition of Kavčič ‘s work is divided into<br />
four sections: Greek and Roman Myths, The Tales of Homer<br />
and Related Themes, The Tales of Antiquity, and Scenes<br />
from Ancient History.<br />
22.12 Wednesday - 28.02 Monday<br />
This Is All Film! Experimental Film in Former<br />
Yugoslavia, 1951-1991<br />
Museum of Modern Art, Cankarjeva 15. The exhibition This<br />
Is All Film! provides a comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve in<strong>si</strong>ght into former Yugoslav<br />
experimental cinema, which is diverse and has con<strong>si</strong>derable<br />
artistic merit, but is little known to the general public.<br />
Experimental film production on the territory of the former<br />
Yugoslavia has been overlooked <strong>si</strong>nce the time when it first<br />
emerged, because as a rule it derived from the tradition of the<br />
so called amateur film, produced mainly as part of the activities<br />
of the numerous cinema clubs which flourished in the major<br />
cities of the former federation.<br />
Apart from showca<strong>si</strong>ng experimental film from across the<br />
former Yugoslavia, the exhibition attempts to present some<br />
of the overlooked areas of Slovenian cinema, including avantgarde,<br />
alternative and amateur film practices, highlighting their<br />
innovative character at the time when they first sprang up.<br />
17.03 Thursday - 25.08 Thursday<br />
Toulouse-Latrec: A Master of Poster Art<br />
Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. The<br />
exhibition Toulouse-Lautrec: A Master of Poster Art brings<br />
together original posters by the famous French painter and<br />
print artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and a selection of<br />
works by renowned contemporary graphic de<strong>si</strong>gners created<br />
in homage to Toulouse-Lautrec on the centenary of his<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Pokal Vitranc Ski World Cup 2011<br />
03.03 Thursday - 06.03 Sunday<br />
www.pokal-vitranc.com. Attracting big brand sponsorship<br />
and winter sports enthu<strong>si</strong>asts in their thousands, the<br />
slopes at the Vitanc mountain range in Kranjska Gora<br />
come alive in March this year during the 50th Audi FIS<br />
Ski World Cup competition. Surely to be watched closely,<br />
expect big snow and even bigger parties. As for the races,<br />
tickets bought on the day start from €10 (adults) and €8<br />
(children) for the standing area.<br />
death. Toulouse-Lautrec’s outstanding graphic solutions still<br />
resonate in print art today. His original works are therefore<br />
exhibited along with a selection of the best posters created<br />
by one hundred international graphic de<strong>si</strong>gners for the 2001<br />
Nouveau Salon des Cents, an exhibition organized in memory<br />
of the 100th anniversary of Toulouse-Lautrec’s death. Exhibiting<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gners include such famous names as Milton Glaser,<br />
Mieczyslaw Gorowski, and Kari Pippo.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Foreign films are screened in the original language with<br />
Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are<br />
usually dubbed. A<strong>si</strong>de from the largest blockbusters, films<br />
tend to open with <strong>si</strong>gnificant lag with respect to larger<br />
markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters adverti<strong>si</strong>ng<br />
something realeased months earlier in you own country.<br />
Tickets cost approximately €5.<br />
Kino Dvor D-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22<br />
13, info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org.<br />
Kinoklub Vič A/B-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad<br />
6, tel. (+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.<strong>si</strong>. Recently<br />
renovated, this is a charming cinema to vi<strong>si</strong>t for a mix of<br />
Hollywood and other films.<br />
Kinoteka D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 15 47 15<br />
80, www.kinoteka.<strong>si</strong>. The place for non-Hollywood, art<br />
house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken<br />
language beforehand.<br />
Ethiopian great Mulatu Astatke returns to Ljubljana for a<br />
concert at Kino Siska on 11 March.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
CuLture & events<br />
An exhaustive survey of prints by everyone’s favourite late<br />
19th century debaucherous, ab<strong>si</strong>nthe-swilling midget, Henri<br />
de Toulouse-Latrec, is on display at Cankarjev Dom from 17<br />
March.<br />
Kolosej N-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 20 55 00,<br />
www.kolosej.<strong>si</strong>. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular<br />
films in<strong>si</strong>de the BTC shopping area.<br />
Concert Halls<br />
Festivalna Dvorana K-2/3, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386)<br />
12 34 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.<strong>si</strong>, www.pionirskidom.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
A large concert and event hall built by none other<br />
than local lad Plečnik.<br />
Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17<br />
063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As<br />
the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally<br />
renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an<br />
eclectic range of performances several times per week,<br />
including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club<br />
on other nights. The state of the art sound system and<br />
acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and<br />
audiences. Regular shows include Rapetek (hip hop shows<br />
the last Friday of every month), Zeleno sonce (funk concerts<br />
the first Friday of every month), Kapa records festivals (shows<br />
February - March 2011<br />
15
16 CuLture & events<br />
by artists <strong>si</strong>gned to the venue’s own label), Dub Club (electrodub<br />
nights), Pozor! Nov bend na vidku! and Domorodni četrtki<br />
(featuring up and coming international and Slovene bands<br />
respectively). From May till October a summer stage and<br />
garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can<br />
accommodate nearly 1000 people.<br />
Hala Tivoli A/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430<br />
67 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.<strong>si</strong>, www.zavodtivoli.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Križanke C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. (+386)<br />
12 41 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with great accoustics<br />
for various summertime concerts and events.<br />
Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) C-4,<br />
Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@filharmonija.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.filharmonija.<strong>si</strong>. A century old in 2008,<br />
the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly<br />
with Lebanese-born chief conductor George Pehlivanian<br />
and various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Planica 2011<br />
17.03 Thursday - 20.03 Sunday<br />
Rateče, tel. (+386) 1 513 68 06, info@planica.info,<br />
www.planica.<strong>si</strong>. Home to the annual FIS ski flying world<br />
cup event, the backdrop of the Planica valley is magnificent.<br />
Awesome rugged peaks tower all around; formed<br />
by the Planica glacier some 20,000 years ago. The jump<br />
itself comprises a fearsomely large and heart stoppingly<br />
steep slope, stuff only for profes<strong>si</strong>onal ski fliers, or the<br />
clinically insane. The current world record (239m) is held<br />
by one of the former, Norwegian Bjørn Einar Romøren,<br />
and was contested by a Finn, Janne Ahonen, whose<br />
240m flight ended with a fall - 2005 was apparently a<br />
great year for breaking records here. Every year Planica<br />
is prepared for the onslaught of thousands spectators<br />
in March. Being amongst 2000m+ alpine peaks, it is<br />
the only kind of setting worthy of such an internationally<br />
prestigious ski event.<br />
photo by Tsutomu Takasu<br />
Cultural Centres<br />
Cankarjev Dom B-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 12<br />
41 71 00, info@cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. This complex<br />
from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre,<br />
dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.<br />
Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) J-2, Trg Prekomorskih<br />
Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 31 01 00, info@<br />
kino<strong>si</strong>ska.<strong>si</strong>, www.kino<strong>si</strong>ska.<strong>si</strong>. After nearly a year of<br />
renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its<br />
doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several<br />
state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces.<br />
Dedicated to promoting contemporary mu<strong>si</strong>c, theatre, dance<br />
and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional<br />
and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around<br />
200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest<br />
multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over<br />
800 people. Check out their English language web<strong>si</strong>te for<br />
more info and a full schedule of events.<br />
KUD France Prešeren K-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386)<br />
12 83 22 88, kud@kud-fp.<strong>si</strong>, www.kud-fp.<strong>si</strong>. A venue for<br />
concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.<br />
Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre)<br />
F-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s<br />
famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which<br />
play thrash style mu<strong>si</strong>c to a dreadlocked black-clad audience<br />
of all ages. Unfortunately little of the web<strong>si</strong>te is in English so<br />
it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for<br />
sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative<br />
to the dance mu<strong>si</strong>c found in most other clubs and attracts<br />
a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in nonjudgmental<br />
than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you<br />
<strong>si</strong>p your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for<br />
the philosophy behind the whole set-up.<br />
Galleries<br />
Equrna C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23,<br />
equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.<strong>si</strong>. Modern art in an<br />
elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 13:00. No admis<strong>si</strong>on.<br />
Galerija Kre<strong>si</strong>ja D-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 13<br />
06 11 71. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 13:00.<br />
Ganes Pratt C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16<br />
33/(+386) 1251 16 34, info@ganes.<strong>si</strong>, www.ganes.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna) features<br />
some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) D-3/4, Mestni Trg<br />
5, tel. (+386) 1241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@<strong>si</strong>ol.net,<br />
www.mestna-galerija.<strong>si</strong>. The largest fine art exhibition<br />
space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Photon E-3, Križevniška 10, tel. (+386) 12 30 20 71,<br />
dejan@photon.<strong>si</strong>, www.photon.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Škuc Gallery D-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421<br />
31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.<strong>si</strong>. One of the cities<br />
most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous<br />
culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring<br />
some oft he most important people in contemporary<br />
art from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
CuLture & events<br />
February - March 2011<br />
17
18 CuLture & events<br />
Theatres<br />
City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)<br />
C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.mgl.<strong>si</strong>. The MGL has two stages that are the home of<br />
modern, progres<strong>si</strong>ve drama <strong>si</strong>nce the Yugoslav era. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Kavarna Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308<br />
17 63, www.gh-union.<strong>si</strong>. The stage of the Kavarna Union<br />
coffee house, in<strong>si</strong>de the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče<br />
Drama) C-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11,<br />
drama@drama.<strong>si</strong>, www.drama.<strong>si</strong>. With its roots reaching<br />
back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays<br />
from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime,<br />
Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed.<br />
Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) D/E-3,<br />
Krekov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.<strong>si</strong>. Taking<br />
as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th<br />
century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over<br />
500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative mu<strong>si</strong>c,<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gn and other forms. It’s respon<strong>si</strong>ble for keeping scores<br />
of children entertained and amused every week. Keep an eye<br />
out for the mu<strong>si</strong>cal puppets that come out of the small tower<br />
on the roof of the building on the hour. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday<br />
to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00,<br />
and during the hour prior to each performance.<br />
Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre C-3,<br />
Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@<br />
opera.<strong>si</strong>, www.opera.<strong>si</strong>. A beautiful neo-Renaissence<br />
theatre in the city centre that’s used for various clas<strong>si</strong>cal<br />
performances. Its lengthy renovations and expan<strong>si</strong>on<br />
finally seem to be nearing an end, with a reopening scheduled<br />
for the spring. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
Slovenska Mladinska Gledališče E-1, Vilharjeva<br />
11, tel. (+386) 1 425 33 12, info@mladinskogl.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
en.mladinsko.com.Q Main box office at Trg<br />
Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30,<br />
Sat 10:00-13:00.<br />
Buy Tickets<br />
Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance<br />
at the venue, or from ticket agencies.<br />
ESITI I/J-4, Cesta na Brdo 17, tel. (+386) 12 57 29<br />
06, podpora@e<strong>si</strong>ti.com, www.mojekarte.<strong>si</strong>. Q To<br />
31 May: 10:00-19:00. From 1 June: 8:00-22:00<br />
Eventim B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 14 30 24<br />
05, info@eventim.<strong>si</strong>, www.eventim.<strong>si</strong>/portal/en.<br />
Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per<br />
year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events<br />
across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer<br />
of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in<br />
Slovenia.<br />
Tourist Information Centre D-3, Adamič-<br />
Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, tic@<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. The helpful<br />
staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can<br />
answer pretty much any question you have about the city,<br />
provide you with maps and countless other brochures,<br />
and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various<br />
other events. Q Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-<br />
September 08:00-21:00. 22 December 2009 - 2 January<br />
2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Enjoy the perfect skiing weather on the sunny <strong>si</strong>de of the Alps!<br />
Slovenia’s best ski resorts<br />
Winter school holidays are fast approaching, and so is<br />
peak ski season in Slovenia. With countless options all<br />
within a short drive of Ljubljana, we want to know where<br />
your favourite places to ski in Slovenia are. We’ve narrowed<br />
the choices down and divided them into three<br />
categories, but it’s up to our readers to decide now - with<br />
the results published in our April/May guide! See our<br />
web<strong>si</strong>te or Facebook page for more details..<br />
Kranjska Gora Tel. (+386) 45 80 94 40, info@kranjskagora.eu,<br />
www.kranjska-gora.<strong>si</strong>. Con<strong>si</strong>dered the premier ski<br />
resort in Slovenia, Kranjska Gora (800-1210m) is a favourite<br />
haunt for rich Slovenes, Croatians and ‘western Europeans’<br />
alike. You won’t find the most challenging runs here, but it is<br />
excellent for beginners and intermediate skiers. If you need<br />
more speed to get the adrenaline pumping, the World Cup slope<br />
in nearby Podkoren is sure to do the trick. Cross-country skiers<br />
can take advantage of a beautiful trail, made where the train<br />
tracks used to lie, at the bottom of the valley. The slopes are<br />
spread along the Vitranc mountain ridge from Kranjska Gora all<br />
the way to Planica, and are served by 6 chairlifts and 12 drag<br />
lifts. In the far north west of Slovenia, take the A2 from Ljubljana<br />
then go left at Jesenice, 1hour 20 minutes by car.<br />
Krvavec Grad 76, Cerklje na Gorenjskem, tel. (+386)<br />
42 52 59 30, info@rtc-krvavec.<strong>si</strong>, www.rtc-krvavec.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Voted the best Slovene ski resort the last three years running,<br />
its huge popularity (capacity: 13,700 skiers/hour) is<br />
partly by virtue of its proximity to Ljubljana, just 45 minutes<br />
by car. Of course the views are spectacular (1450-1971m),<br />
and the piste breathtaking, literally with 23km of medium<br />
to demanding slopes. For beginners and families there’s a<br />
ski school, large equipment rental facility and 7km of easy<br />
slopes. For everyone, there are lots of accommodation options<br />
available on the mountain (book early) - and 100 days<br />
of guaranteed skiing per year (90% artificial snow coverage).<br />
Slovenia’s flagship ski destination. Head northbound on the<br />
A2 from Ljubljana, once out in the country<strong>si</strong>de it’s <strong>si</strong>gnposted<br />
from the motorway, near Kranj. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Prices<br />
for 1 day lift pass: €28 adults, €24 students/seniors/youths,<br />
€16 kids. Rentals from €15 per day for standard equipment.<br />
Other packages are available.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
ski Centres<br />
Maribor Pohorje Mladinska 29, tel. (+386) 26 03 65<br />
57, info.vzp@sk-branik.<strong>si</strong>, www.pohorje.org. Pohorje, the<br />
biggest ski centre in Slovenia, entertains everyone from beginners<br />
to advanced skiers and boarders. With 41.5 km of varied<br />
and well-kept piste, it’s non-stop fun for friends and families<br />
alike. The customary ski/board school will launch you up to<br />
the more challenging runs soon enough, but if it’s exercise<br />
and scenery you’re after, there are 27km of cross country<br />
trails. We love the location, right be<strong>si</strong>de Slovenia’s second<br />
city, Maribor; explaining why it attracts so many Austrians<br />
and Croatians every year. It’s a relatively rare urban and ski<br />
experience in one. Pohorje is accessed by way of 5 chairlifts,<br />
16 ski-lifts and a gondola, the latter even being reachable by<br />
Maribor city bus. If you happen to have a car, Maribor is one<br />
and a half hours east from Ljubljana on the A1 motorway.<br />
Otherwise take a train then catch a city bus.<br />
Velika Planina Kamniška Bistrica 2, Stahovica, tel.<br />
+386 18 32 72 58/+386 18 31 29 81, info@velikaplanina.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.velikaplanina.<strong>si</strong>. Sitting near Kamnik, a<br />
typically picturesque Slovenian town, is the lower station of<br />
the cable car which carries you to a vast mountain plateau:<br />
Velika Planina. Perched on the open alpine plains is a herdsmen’s<br />
settlement, with its quirky architecture, <strong>si</strong>mple way of<br />
life, and traditionally made dairy products. If the mysterious<br />
spirit of the place is lost on the kids, at least they’ll have a<br />
great time on the snowy playground, ski-lift Jurček or the free<br />
kindergarten here every weekend (11:00-13:00). In terms of<br />
skiing, Velika Planina is perfect for families and beginners, to<br />
intermediate skiers also interested in a cultural experience.<br />
6km of slopes (mostly medium difficulty) are served by 6 ski<br />
lifts and rise from 1412-1666m. Winter at Velika Planina holds<br />
plenty of other opportunities to be active on the snow: sledging,<br />
walking, hiking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.<br />
To get there, head north-east from Ljubljana towards Mengeš<br />
and Kamnik, then continue north through Kamnik following<br />
<strong>si</strong>gns for Kamniška Bistrica and Velika Planina.<br />
Check out the rest of Slovenia’s<br />
ski resorts online at<br />
www.inyourpocket.com/<br />
slovenia/ljubljana/Ski-and-Spa<br />
February - March 2011<br />
19
20 where to stAy<br />
Weekend package<br />
in Ljubljana<br />
S p e nd so me wo n d e rfu l<br />
d a ys a t M o ns H o t e l .<br />
• Two overnights<br />
•<br />
• Welcome drink<br />
•<br />
• Free use of internet<br />
• Free return shuttle to Ljubljana<br />
historical city centre<br />
• Free parking<br />
Package price:<br />
per person<br />
in a double room<br />
HOTEL AND CONGRESS CENTRE <strong>LJUBLJANA</strong><br />
For INFO & RESERVATIONS please contact<br />
Phone: +386 1 470 27 05<br />
E-mail: info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
MONS Hotel and Congress Centre,<br />
Pot za Brdom 4, SI–1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia<br />
COUPON<br />
Receive a 10 % discount with this coupon.<br />
The o�er is valid till 31th May 2011.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
H Conference facilities T Child friendly<br />
U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre<br />
L Guarded parking R Internet<br />
G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
Over €170<br />
NEW<br />
Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa C-4, Vegova 5a, tel. (+386)<br />
838 96 700, fax (+386) 838 06 790, sales@antiqpalace.<br />
com, www.antiqpalace.com. With the opening of Antiq<br />
Palace & Spa (the <strong>si</strong>ster property of Antiq, which was recently<br />
crowned the city’s best hotel), Ljubljana finally has a top end<br />
boutique hotel on par with any other in the world in terms of<br />
luxury, service and history. In fact, calling it a <strong>si</strong>mply a ‘hotel’ is<br />
misleading, as it is truly a palace in every sense of the word. The<br />
sprawling 16th century building was a former noble re<strong>si</strong>dence<br />
and has been painstakingly restored to its original splendour.<br />
Its 13 fully-equipped and beautifully furnished re<strong>si</strong>dential suites<br />
range in <strong>si</strong>ze from 100 to 250m², and several unique spaces are<br />
available for bu<strong>si</strong>ness meetings, conferences and other events.<br />
The premises also include luxurious and intimate spa facilities,<br />
where guests can indulge themselves with the finest treatments<br />
and then unwind in a Jacuzzi, sauna or steam room.Q 13 suites<br />
(<strong>si</strong>ngles €115-240, doubles €275-330, duplex re<strong>si</strong>dence €550).<br />
PTJHARUIFLEDXW<br />
Grand Hotel Union Bu<strong>si</strong>ness D-3, Miklošičeva 3,<br />
tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel.<br />
bu<strong>si</strong>ness@gh-union.<strong>si</strong>, www.gh-union.<strong>si</strong>. Attached to its<br />
<strong>si</strong>bling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the<br />
facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms<br />
and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to<br />
put off the serious male bu<strong>si</strong>ness traveller. Shared facilities<br />
include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms,<br />
secure parking and the plea<strong>si</strong>ng fact that the best <strong>si</strong>ghts and<br />
leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Q 327 rooms<br />
(<strong>si</strong>ngles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446).<br />
PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />
Grand Hotel Union Executive D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel.<br />
(+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.<strong>si</strong>, www.ghunion.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the<br />
Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully<br />
decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely<br />
old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of<br />
facilities for both bu<strong>si</strong>ness and leisure. Extras include two decent<br />
restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent<br />
gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts<br />
the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327<br />
rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546).<br />
PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />
Hotel Listings Policy<br />
Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical<br />
order within that band. The price band refers<br />
to the rack rate for a double room.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
2 del oglas hotel mons_in your pocket sept2010.indd 1 16.9.2010 14:28:50
Lesar Hotel Angel D-4, Gornji Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1 42 55<br />
089/(+386) 5 911 96 80, fax (+386) 1 42 55 090, info@<br />
angelhotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.angelhotel.<strong>si</strong>. With the Lesar opening its<br />
doors on the first of the year, it’s apparent that Gornji Trg has become<br />
the address of choice for Ljubljana’s boutique hotels. Owned<br />
by the same folks who run the exqui<strong>si</strong>te Pri Vitezu restaurant, the<br />
hotel is housed in a beautifully restored villa at the foot of the<br />
castle and is an exercise in elegance and luxury. A labyrinth of<br />
hallways and stairs leads to a total of twelve unique rooms, and<br />
the premises, which include a lounge, bar, several terraces and<br />
a 500m² garden, also double as a showroom with most of the<br />
furnishings available for purchase. A <strong>si</strong>zeable 30 percent discount<br />
is also being offered on all rooms until 1 May 2010. Q 12 rooms<br />
(5 doubles €120-150, 7 suites €170-450).<br />
Lev C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 21 55, info@<br />
hotel-lev.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotel-lev.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel<br />
started bu<strong>si</strong>ness in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed<br />
to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie,<br />
Kirk Douglas and Sting in its time. A glistening marble lobby<br />
serves as a fine overture to over 170 high quality, air-conditioned<br />
rooms from <strong>si</strong>ngles through to some exceedingly posh<br />
suites, all complete with facilities including soundproof windows,<br />
cable televi<strong>si</strong>on and a choice of internet connections.<br />
Extras include popularbu<strong>si</strong>ness and conference services, a<br />
restaurant speciali<strong>si</strong>ng in some fine Mediterranean dishes<br />
and a large gambling hall in the basement Q 173 rooms<br />
(<strong>si</strong>ngles €200, doubles €240, bu<strong>si</strong>ness rooms €250, suites<br />
€300). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh<br />
Mons H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00,<br />
fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>. Along the highway to the west of the city<br />
and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
where to stAy<br />
and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed.<br />
From the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed,<br />
Mons markets itself as the country’s first de<strong>si</strong>gner hotel)<br />
to the glorious rooms, this place really is just what the<br />
doctor ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym<br />
and sauna. The congress facilities are state of the art.<br />
Q 110 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €112-210), doubles €137-235,<br />
suites €257-355). PTHAR6FLGKDXW<br />
hhhh<br />
€100-170<br />
Allegro D-4, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/(+386)<br />
41 557 908, info@allegrohotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.allegrohotel.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy<br />
boutique hotel, but semantics a<strong>si</strong>de there’s a lot to like. The<br />
12 individually de<strong>si</strong>gned rooms each feature a different colour<br />
scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent,<br />
along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings.<br />
Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including<br />
a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room in<br />
the cellar that could ea<strong>si</strong>ly be mistaken for a restaurant. Q 12<br />
rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €95-115, doubles €130-150). PJARBW<br />
hhhh<br />
Antiq D-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1421 35 60, fax<br />
(+386) 1421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.antiqhotel.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of<br />
rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming<br />
little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have<br />
been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden<br />
beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls<br />
and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small<br />
budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful<br />
February - March 2011<br />
21
22 where to stAy<br />
eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors<br />
come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent<br />
bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different,<br />
more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist<br />
furniture. Q 16 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €61-135, doubles €156-172,<br />
extra bed €48). PJAR6IGW hhhh<br />
Austria Trend L-1, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 15 88<br />
25 00, fax (+386) 15 88 25 99, ljubljana@austriatrend.at,<br />
www.austria-trend.at/lju. Near the ring road<br />
2km north of the city centre, this vast bu<strong>si</strong>ness class hotel<br />
provides high quality rooms in four different categories, plus<br />
a range of other excellent services and facilities including<br />
a wellness centre, conference rooms, restaurants, a fine<br />
cocktail bar and a fun oyster and sushi bar. Popular for<br />
both relaxing bu<strong>si</strong>ness stays as well as a variety of different<br />
functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better hotel<br />
of this type in the city. Q 214 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €100-125,<br />
doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225).<br />
POHAUFGKDXW<br />
Best Western Premier Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel.<br />
(+386) 1470 11 00, fax (+386) 1251 71 64, sales@<br />
hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the <strong>si</strong>te of the<br />
oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in<br />
the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury,<br />
from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest<br />
cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality;<br />
you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste<br />
everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-<br />
Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous<br />
service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you<br />
have one hell of a package. Q 171 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €75 - 134,<br />
doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335).<br />
PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh<br />
Central D-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1308 43 00, fax<br />
(+386) 1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
centralhotel.<strong>si</strong>. The clas<strong>si</strong>c four-star hotel experience, the<br />
Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city,<br />
but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared<br />
up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is<br />
crammed with the latest useful information about the city<br />
and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the<br />
summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either,<br />
and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value<br />
stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value<br />
accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €90-167,<br />
doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6F�<br />
GKDXCW hhhh<br />
City D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 1239 00 00, fax<br />
(+386) 1239 00 01, info@cityhotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.cityhotel.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. With a reception like a studio set for a children’s televi<strong>si</strong>on<br />
programme complete with bright colours and lots of<br />
comfortable furniture, the City Hotel provides a plea<strong>si</strong>ng<br />
atmosphere and lots of wonderful added extras for a most<br />
satisfactory stay in the city. A combination of standard and<br />
superior rooms with lots of plea<strong>si</strong>ng cream colours and<br />
hardwood floors in the latter, other goodies include free LAN<br />
internet in every room, a small library on the ground floor,<br />
and bicycle hire for the fitter section of the community. Q<br />
200 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €69-140, doubles €138-290, suites<br />
€373-888). PTJHAR6UILGKXW<br />
hhh<br />
More hotels online<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
24 where to stAy<br />
M Hotel J-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax<br />
(+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.m-hotel.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this<br />
fine, modern bu<strong>si</strong>ness class hotel comes with over 150<br />
well appointed rooms, all with cable televi<strong>si</strong>on, en suite<br />
bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extralength<br />
beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what<br />
you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car<br />
rental and a hairdresser. Q 154 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €61-135,<br />
doubles €77-168). PHAR6ULGKXW<br />
hhh<br />
€70-100<br />
Kavarna Maček Rooms D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386)<br />
1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this<br />
beautiful and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy<br />
of other travellers. These rooms are along the river and<br />
above the popular Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed<br />
in a tasteful modern style. The rooms are mostly <strong>si</strong>ngles<br />
and doubles for couples, but there’s also one larger apartment.<br />
In the morning, head down to the cafe for a coffee and<br />
breakfast and at night grab one last drink before heading up<br />
to your glorious temporary home. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30.<br />
5 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €55, doubles €96, apartment €112).<br />
PTJA6GBKS<br />
Stil O-4, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 15 48 43 43, hotel@<br />
hotel-stil.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotel-stil.<strong>si</strong>. Located in a quiet rural<br />
setting near the ring road on the eastern edge of the city,<br />
Stil is a convenient choice for those with their own transport<br />
who are looking to avoid the noise and activity of the city<br />
centre. The modern building houses a range of rooms and<br />
apartments, and there’s a large parking lot for guests. All<br />
facilities are air-conditioned and come with en suite bathrooms,<br />
mini-bars and wireless internet. Two seminar rooms<br />
are also available. Q 43 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €72, doubles €75-<br />
90, triples €108, apartments €90-170). PHARLG<br />
hhh<br />
Under €70<br />
Bit Center M-4, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 15 48 00 55,<br />
fax (+386) 15 48 00 56, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bitcenter.net.<br />
A combined hotel, sports centre and youth hostel<br />
10 minutes east of the centre, rooms are ba<strong>si</strong>c but clean,<br />
coming with en suite bathrooms facilities and cable televi<strong>si</strong>on<br />
in every room. Budget means budget here, so there are no<br />
fancy restaurants or bars, just a snack counter and little else.<br />
Sports facilities including badminton and squash courts, fitness<br />
centre and gym. The ‘Working Inn’ hostel option provides<br />
excellent value rooms that sleep up to 10 people with shared<br />
bathroom facilities. Q 39 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €34.50, doubles<br />
€46, triples €47.50, dorm beds €15). Breakfast (€3.50) not<br />
included. AGBKDW h<br />
Center C-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 15 20 06 40/<br />
(+386) 41 26 33 47, fax (+386) 15 20 06 44, info@<br />
hotelcenter.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotelcenter.<strong>si</strong>. Just opened last<br />
year, this eight-room family-run affair is hard to beat in terms<br />
of location and price. The rooms are a bit on the Spartan<br />
<strong>si</strong>de, but not without their own charm, owing in large part to<br />
the premises: a renovated 19th-century government building<br />
with high ceilings and splashes of exposed stonework. Run<br />
by the same people as Café Compañeros downstairs, there<br />
are often packages available - including free dinner and/or<br />
drinks - if you’re staying at least two nights and inquire about<br />
them in advance. Q 8 rooms (doubles €60-75).<br />
M hotel, Derčeva ulica 4, 1000 Ljubljana<br />
t: +386 1 513 7000, e: info@m-hotel.<strong>si</strong><br />
www.m-hotel.<strong>si</strong><br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
estaurant & pizzeria<br />
Mediteranean cui<strong>si</strong>ne<br />
and delicious pizzas<br />
Cesta na Brdo 33, Ljubljana<br />
+386 1 423 24 23<br />
e-mail: azur@telemach.net<br />
www.azur-tratorija.<strong>si</strong><br />
HOSTEL AZUR<br />
Cosy Hostel ideal for small groups<br />
- up to 20 people, located on top of<br />
a pizzeria in a green and peaceful area<br />
Cesta na Brdo 33, Ljubljana<br />
Sattnerjeva 2, Ljubljana<br />
+386 40 636 205<br />
e-mail: hostel.azur@gmail.com<br />
www.hostelbookers.com<br />
Restaurant and Rooms ***<br />
Tasty mediteranean cui<strong>si</strong>ne<br />
and comfortable guest rooms<br />
Cesta I / 26a Rožna dolina, Ljubljana<br />
restaurant: +386 01 386 1 422 88 40<br />
room booking: +386 41 673 783<br />
e-mail: katrca1905@gmal.com<br />
www.katrca.<strong>si</strong>
26 where to stAy<br />
One of the many <strong>si</strong>tting rooms at the newly opened Antiq<br />
Palace & Spa, photo by Žiga Koritnik<br />
Emonec C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1200 15 20,<br />
fax (+386) 1200 15 21, hotelemonec@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.<br />
hotel-emonec.com. This clean and slightly hidden hotel<br />
actually gives you front row seats to the city as it <strong>si</strong>ts<br />
right in<strong>si</strong>de the Prešernov trg area. The accomodations<br />
are sparse and while they have no restaurant there are no<br />
shortage of options as soon as you walk out of the door. A<br />
great choice for the traveller on a budget. Q 39 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles<br />
€59, doubles €67-77, triples €90, apartments €105).<br />
JHAR6UW hh<br />
Penzion Tavčar N-1, Cesta v Šmartno 7, tel. (+386)<br />
1 546 69 70, fax (+386) 1 546 69 90, penzion.<br />
tavcar@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.penzion-tavcar.com. Nestled<br />
between the winding river Sava and Šmartinska Cesta just<br />
out<strong>si</strong>de the ring road, Tavčar Guest House is far removed<br />
from the commotion of the city centre but still ea<strong>si</strong>ly acces<strong>si</strong>ble<br />
- with the BTC shopping centre within walking<br />
distance. The rooms are pleasantly, and many offer views<br />
of the surrounding country<strong>si</strong>de, while the restaurant offers<br />
tasty homemade food in a great leafy courtyard. Q<br />
12 rooms, 1 apartment (<strong>si</strong>ngles €55, doubles €65-75,<br />
apartment €95-140).<br />
Stari Tišler D-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430<br />
33 70, fax (+386) 1 430 33 75, info@stari-tisler.<br />
com, www.stari-tisler.com. Cheap and cheerful budget<br />
accommodation in a charming old building in the city<br />
centre. There are <strong>si</strong>x rooms, which you will find at the<br />
top of a glorious staircase, and which, while they share<br />
bathroom facilities, do come with televi<strong>si</strong>ons. The triples<br />
are great value. There’s a good breakfast included, which<br />
in the summer is served out<strong>si</strong>de in the courtyard, and an<br />
internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles €44, triples €66).<br />
PJALGBK<br />
Hostels<br />
Alibi D-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 12 51<br />
12 44, fax (+386) 12 51 12 45, info@alibi.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
alibi.<strong>si</strong>. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better located<br />
hostel in Ljubljana. Right in the heart of the centre of<br />
the city, Alibi is a hostel that is actually a lot bigger than<br />
it originally seems. In here you’ll find all types of room.<br />
You can choose how many people you want to share the<br />
room with depending on how much you enjoy snoring. All<br />
of them decorated in different graffiti motifs. The staff is<br />
super friendly and always at hand if you need something.<br />
Try to get the cooler rooms. One has a great balcony<br />
overlooking the river and there’s another one that’s a<br />
separate apartment on the top of the building. There’s<br />
a locked room next to it with metal doors that looks like<br />
a prison cell, but it actually adds to the atmosphere.<br />
Q Open 24 hours. 106 beds (double bed €20, four<br />
bed private €17, <strong>si</strong>x bed private €20, dormitory €17).<br />
PJAR6LEGW h<br />
Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205.<br />
Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and re<strong>si</strong>dential<br />
neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel<br />
occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant<br />
of the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The<br />
friendly owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the<br />
airport and train station, and will generally do what he can<br />
to make you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14<br />
stops right across the road and you can’t miss the bright<br />
orange building. However, there’s not always someone<br />
at reception so it’s a good idea to arrange your arrival in<br />
advance. Q 20 beds (11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13).<br />
ALK<br />
Celica F-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 12<br />
30 97 00, info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.<br />
com. Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding<br />
buildings close to the stations and the city centre<br />
started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian<br />
military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms<br />
have been kept almost as they were, providing a<br />
cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night<br />
behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as<br />
dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s<br />
even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of<br />
other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access,<br />
tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café<br />
serves an excellent value set lunch every day. Q 29<br />
rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per bed).<br />
PJHAR6ULGKW h<br />
Hostel Print J-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. (+386)<br />
51 387 111, info@hostelprint.com, hostelprint.com.<br />
Ljubljana’s newest hostel is actually more of a budget hotel as<br />
all accommodation is in <strong>si</strong>ngle, double and triple rooms, which<br />
are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made<br />
breakfasts are also included in the prince and ea<strong>si</strong>ly exceed<br />
what you get at most other budget options. However, the<br />
place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with<br />
several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen.<br />
Located in the student neighbourhood of Rožna Dolina, it’s<br />
a short walk to the centre or a quick ride on bus 14 (hop off<br />
oppo<strong>si</strong>te Mercator). Q 25 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €25, doubles €50,<br />
triples €66). PTRLGXW<br />
Vila Veselova B-3, Veselova 14, tel. (+386) 59 92<br />
67 21, desk@v-v.<strong>si</strong>, www.v-v.<strong>si</strong>. Owned by the same<br />
people who run the excellent Žmauc bar, this fairly new<br />
hostel in a lovely old villa in the western part of the city<br />
centre is aimed at the young travelling crowd who like to<br />
relax. Simply furnished with a range of rooms and dormitories,<br />
some with and some without en suite facilities<br />
and all named after a different colour, extras include nice<br />
big balconies and free internet. Q 8 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €28,<br />
4-bed dorms €22, 6-bed dorms €20, 8-bed dorms €17).<br />
JARLGW hh<br />
Read more online<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
HOTEL BOHINJ HOTEL ZLATOROG<br />
In the heart of the Triglav National Park, Bohinj offers truly<br />
special experiences each season. Set amidst the Julian<br />
Alps, in Spring and Summer you are welcomed by birdsong<br />
and rushing water, in Autumn by the colours of nature and in<br />
Winter by fabulous snowy landscapes. This oa<strong>si</strong>s of<br />
peaceand relaxation 20 km from Bled, allows everyone the<br />
chanceto enjoy their perfect holiday, with a swim in the lake,<br />
trekking along fantastic trails, canoeing, rafting, extreme<br />
sports, views from the Vogel cableway, three museums,<br />
horse riding on Icelandic horses, boat trips on the lake,<br />
spectacularwaterfalls and downhill and cross country skiing<br />
in the four ski centres nearby. Hospitality is guaranteed at<br />
the homelly Hotel Bohinj with its sauna, swimming pool and<br />
fitness area, at the clas<strong>si</strong>c Zlatorog with a swimming pool<br />
and sauna and at the Zlatorog Camp<strong>si</strong>te, equipped with<br />
everything you need: a king’s welcome in the kingdom of<br />
the goat with golden horns.
28 where to stAy<br />
Apartments<br />
Marta Studio J-4, Tržaška 24, tel. (+386) 5 9020 452,<br />
fax (+386) 5 9060 012, info@martastudio.eu, www.<br />
martastudio.eu. These three self-contained studios and<br />
one large 100m² apartment make are reasonably priced<br />
alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities,<br />
including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation<br />
is just a short 10 minutes walk from the city centre, or an<br />
even shorter bus ride. Restaurants, banks and a supermarket<br />
are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little<br />
more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is on the corner<br />
of Tržaška and Idrijska Streets Q (3 studios €45-55, 1 apartment<br />
€105-145). TA6L<br />
Tour AS D-2/3, Mala Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1434 26<br />
60, fax (+386) 1434 26 64, info@apartmaji.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
apartmaji.<strong>si</strong>. These are the people to talk to if you’re interested<br />
in renting an apartment during your stay in Ljubljana.<br />
From an office just a few minutes walk directly south of the<br />
main train and bus stations, they operate over 40 units of<br />
varying <strong>si</strong>zes located all around the city. On their web<strong>si</strong>te you<br />
can find incredibly detailed descriptions of each apartment<br />
from photos and floor plans to available amenities such as<br />
microwaves and dishwashers. They can also arrange day<br />
trips to just about everywhere in Slovenia. Q 40 apartments<br />
(€59-154). PTJAR6UL<br />
Around Ljubljana<br />
Penzion na Klancu Gorenjska 13, Medvode, tel. (+386)<br />
1 361 82 55/(+386) 31 673 068, fax (+386) 1 361 82<br />
56, info@naklancu.com, www.naklancu.com. For those<br />
who’d like to avoid the bustle of the city centre, but still have<br />
easy access to <strong>si</strong>ghts and activities in Ljubljana, this 100<br />
year-old but newly renovated guest house is perfectly <strong>si</strong>tuated<br />
in the town of Medvode some 11km from the capital.<br />
The spacious, smartly decorated rooms are complimented<br />
by an excellent restaurant, and the staff can recommend<br />
numerous activities and off the beaten path excur<strong>si</strong>ons in the<br />
surrounding country<strong>si</strong>de. Q 13 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €49, doubles<br />
€69, triples €89). PALKW<br />
Zlatorog Ukanc 64, tel. (+386) 4 572 33 81. In the heart<br />
of the Triglav National Park, Bohinj offers a truly special experience.<br />
In Spring and Summer you are welcomed by birdsong<br />
and rushing water, in Autumn by the colours of nature and in<br />
Winter by fabulous snowy landscapes. This oa<strong>si</strong>s of peace<br />
and relaxation 20km from Bled, allows everyone the chance<br />
to enjoy a perfect holiday, with a swim in the lake, trekking<br />
along fantastic trails, canoeing, rafting, extreme sports, views<br />
from the Vogel cableway, three museums, horse riding on<br />
Icelandic horses, boat trips on the lake, spectacular waterfalls<br />
and downhill and cross country skiing in the four ski centres<br />
nearby. Q (<strong>si</strong>ngles €38-48, doubles €76-96).<br />
Couchsurfing<br />
Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are<br />
literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering<br />
their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors<br />
for free to fellow travellers. The <strong>si</strong>te, which combines social<br />
networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone<br />
interested in hanging out with locals and saving some<br />
cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss<br />
experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give<br />
you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective<br />
hosts. Info www.couchsurfing.org<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live mu<strong>si</strong>c S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R Internet L Guarded parking<br />
O Ca<strong>si</strong>no J Old Town location<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
B Out<strong>si</strong>de seating V Home delivery<br />
Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with<br />
new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. A<br />
couple of our current favourites include the always packed<br />
Luka Lunch Café and the exqui<strong>si</strong>te (but pricey) Pri Vitezu.<br />
Although more often than not these days eating out often<br />
means burek for us.<br />
Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who plan<br />
to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover that<br />
almost every street has at least one burek and pizza place<br />
on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not to be<br />
missed.<br />
The following reviews are by no means complete, but<br />
do offer a bit of everything for everyone, from the finest<br />
white-tablecloth options available to the more amu<strong>si</strong>ngly<br />
backwards establishments complete with greasy cutlery<br />
and bumbling waiters.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Assuming that vi<strong>si</strong>tors avoid the clas<strong>si</strong>c traps of restaurant<br />
dining and the outrageously overpriced places aimed<br />
at the tourist market, eating in Ljubljana, although not as<br />
cheap as it was, remains a pleasantly affordable experience<br />
for all.<br />
A<strong>si</strong>an<br />
Bangkok Street M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.<br />
(+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, info@<br />
bangkokstreet.<strong>si</strong>, www.bangkokstreet.<strong>si</strong>. Settle into a<br />
table with views of an artfully-lit perforated metal structure<br />
just beyond the ceiling-high windows at the back of this stylish<br />
new eatery, and you just might be able to forget that you’re<br />
staring at the façade of a parking garage from a shopping<br />
mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting to the nearest<br />
telephone to call home and <strong>si</strong>ng its praises, it’s better than<br />
you might expect given the location and you’ll be hard-pressed<br />
to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the portions are<br />
huge and there’s also a relatively inexpen<strong>si</strong>ve all-you-can-eat<br />
buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00<br />
- 15:00. (€4-16). PTAULGW<br />
China Fast Food E-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel.<br />
(+386) 31 56 82 78. Six little tables in<strong>si</strong>de a small restaurant<br />
on the ground floor of Centar Ledina (across the park oppo<strong>si</strong>te<br />
the main train station), constantly busy at lunchtime with locals<br />
tucking into food cooked in a <strong>si</strong>ngle wok by a Chinese man vi<strong>si</strong>ble<br />
through a large plate glass window. Reasonably priced, fast,<br />
and with vegetarian options as well, the food is pretty good,<br />
and worth investigating if you find yourself here with an empty<br />
stomach and not a lot of time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (€4.70-6.80). PJAUGS<br />
Our only complaint about Lunch Café’s delectable tiramisu is the ridiculously large portions it comes in, photo by Branka<br />
Jovanović<br />
February - March 2011<br />
29
30 restAurAnts<br />
Shambala C-4,<br />
Križevniška 12, tel.<br />
(+386) 14 26 30<br />
Show this copy of InYourPocket and claim a<br />
14/(+386) 31 843<br />
SPECIAL 5% DISCOUNT 833, info@shambala.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.shambala.<strong>si</strong>. Great value A<strong>si</strong>an food in a<br />
quiet, <strong>si</strong>de street location. Head out back to the covered<br />
garden and order any of the tremendous stir fries, though<br />
do not forego the starters: tempura made with shrimps<br />
make great nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on<br />
the menu (not always the case in these parts). QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50).<br />
PTJAGBK<br />
Sushimama C/D-3, Wolfova 12/(+386) 40 70 20 70,<br />
www.sushimama.<strong>si</strong>. The first - and for a long time only - Japanese<br />
restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s<br />
interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription<br />
to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the<br />
sushi chef on display as he works in the restaurant. The exten<strong>si</strong>ve<br />
menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle<br />
soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to<br />
of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an exten<strong>si</strong>ve list of<br />
cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the<br />
first and finest of its kind. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(€11-24). PJARGBXS<br />
Balkan<br />
Čad (Pod Rožnikom) J-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel.<br />
(+386) 1251 34 46, www.gp-vic.<strong>si</strong>/roznik-eng.asp.<br />
When you ask locals to name there favourite Serbian restaurant<br />
in Ljubljana, Čad is the most frequently heard answer.<br />
Small, rustic, and surrounded by greenery, this gostilna is<br />
<strong>si</strong>tuated by Rožnik hill, near Tivoli Park. Speciali<strong>si</strong>ng in spit<br />
and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici<br />
skewer all come highly recommended. Easy to combine with a<br />
trip to the zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€5-15). PTJA6ILGBX<br />
Harambaša C-5, Vrtna Ulica, tel. (+386) 41 84 31 06.<br />
Ćevapčići (che-VAP-chi-chi) - the delicious Balkan staple of juicy<br />
barbequed lamb or beef - is served in abundance here. This<br />
ćevapnica (che-vap-nitsa, a cafe/restaurant serving ćevapčići)<br />
has a quaint and cosy dining room, complete with old photos,<br />
antiques and a Balkan soundtrack. A<strong>si</strong>de from the odd<br />
American, the clientele is refreshingly local - and a<strong>si</strong>de from the<br />
air-conditioning you could ea<strong>si</strong>ly be in a village in the Bosnian<br />
country<strong>si</strong>de. Located on quiet backstreet, Harambaša is a great<br />
place for a beer, chat and, of course, lots of lovely ćevapčići.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
(€5-8). PS<br />
Rio-Momo C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 31 751 751/<br />
(+386) 14 25 32 26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated between<br />
the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s<br />
main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the<br />
most inviting but once you get in<strong>si</strong>de it’s actually quite warm<br />
and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend<br />
the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although<br />
vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose<br />
from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table<br />
out<strong>si</strong>de for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA<br />
Many more restaurants online at<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Sarajevo ‘84 C-3, Nazorjeva 12. One of Ljubljana’s more<br />
atmospheric Bosnian restaurants occupies the subterranean<br />
premises of a former jazz club and sports an interior somewhat<br />
reminiscent of a pub - walls plastered with memorabilia<br />
from the 1984 Winter Olympics, arched brick ceilings and old<br />
black and white Yugoslav tourist videos playing on a projection<br />
screen. The menu only has two main dishes, so ordering<br />
comes down to which shape you prefer your meat to take:<br />
sausages (ćevapčići) or a patty (pljeskavica), both of which<br />
come with bread and diced onions. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-4.80). JAS<br />
Sofra L-1, Dunajska 145, tel. (+386) 1 565 68 00. For<br />
a well-prepared taste of Bosnia without the long train ride,<br />
this restaurant offers intimate and classy surroundings and<br />
a reasonably priced menu featuring mostly Bosnian grilled,<br />
roasted, and sometimes spicy specialties. The vegetarian<br />
among you might find something in the burek offerings, and for<br />
the adventurous there are a few beef tongue delicacies. There<br />
is also a <strong>si</strong>zeable room off to one <strong>si</strong>de that can be closed off<br />
for large private parties. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />
23:00. Closed Sun. (€4-7). PAULEGBXS<br />
Fish<br />
Gostilna Krpan L/M-3, Ob Ljubljanici 24, tel. (+386)<br />
15 21 12 20, gostilna.krpan@<strong>si</strong>ol.com, www.gostilnakrpan.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Located along the river in the quiet neighbourhood<br />
a couple kilometres east of the city centre, this<br />
nicely de<strong>si</strong>gned Slovenian fish restaurant has a stunning<br />
variety of fresh fish specialities on offer. The menu comprises<br />
everything from oysters and squid to scorpionfish<br />
and lobster. Naturally, there’s a good selection of wines<br />
to make the fish swim. All in all one of the city’s more romantic<br />
affairs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€4-43).<br />
PTA6ULGBXS<br />
Ribca D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 14<br />
25 15 44, www.ribca.<strong>si</strong>. Somewhat hidden below Plečnik’s<br />
famous colonnaded arcade on the banks of the Ljubljanica,<br />
Ribca is the city’s best known seafood restaurant and worth<br />
stopping by as much for the architecture as the food. The various<br />
fish, squid and shrimp dishes on their no-nonsense menu<br />
are pretty much guaranteed to be fresh as it’s all sourced from<br />
the local fish market located right next door. The lunch menu<br />
is a great value at €7.50, but make sure to stop by early as it’s<br />
only open during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-7.70). JA6BS<br />
Burek<br />
Nobel Burek D-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386)<br />
12 32 33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus<br />
stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as<br />
pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street.<br />
Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€1-2).<br />
J6UXS<br />
Olimpija D-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal<br />
favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about out<strong>si</strong>de<br />
around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also<br />
the runaway winner of our online poll. The servings are<br />
huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose<br />
from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the<br />
overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around<br />
the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
€2. JNXS<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
French<br />
Bon Appétit D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 1 430<br />
80 80, bonappetit.ljubljana@yahoo.com. Since being<br />
opened by a Pari<strong>si</strong>an émigré and his Polish wife several<br />
years ago, Ljubljana’s premier French eatery has managed<br />
to remain somewhat hidden, tucked away beneath one of<br />
city’s best-known arthouse cinemas. Awash in deep reds and<br />
dark wood, the restaurant exudes elegance and feels almost<br />
like a private club. The food itself is routinely excellent, and<br />
we’ve been assured by our French friends that it’s entirely<br />
authentic and exceedingly popular amongst Ljubljana’s small<br />
French community. The premises also double as one of the<br />
city’s better wine bars, with well over 100 different bottles of<br />
exclu<strong>si</strong>vely French wine (mostly imported directly from producers)<br />
available for purchase. Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00<br />
and 19:00-22:00, and on Sat-Sun by special arrangement.<br />
(€8.90 - 17.50). PTJA6LVSW<br />
Fruit juice<br />
Juicebox C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 51 645 930,<br />
info@juicebox.<strong>si</strong>, www.juicebox.<strong>si</strong>/index.html. An<br />
experimental juice bar that mixes up glasses upon glasses<br />
of 100% fruit juices, soya milk, milk, yogurt and nuts. That’s<br />
enough to get anyone’s mouth water. Definitely, a pleasant<br />
place for an invigorating start to the day or a mid day refreshment<br />
and you can bring your laptop along to make use<br />
of its WiFi facility. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 8:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. GW<br />
Indian<br />
Namasté C/D-4, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59,<br />
info@restavracija-namaste.<strong>si</strong>, www.restavracijanamaste.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Lots of greens, oranges and golds and some<br />
nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere in<strong>si</strong>de<br />
a super restaurant speciali<strong>si</strong>ng primarily in dishes from<br />
Rajastan and the Punjab. U<strong>si</strong>ng the best spices imported<br />
directly from India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes,<br />
both meat and vegetarian options are made individually<br />
from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is excellent.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21).<br />
PTJA6UGBXS<br />
International<br />
As C-3, Čopova 5A, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) 1425<br />
88 22, gostilna.as@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.gostilnaas.<strong>si</strong>. Exqui<strong>si</strong>te<br />
presentation and service mark the legendary As out as one of<br />
the most expen<strong>si</strong>ve dining experiences in the city. Brimming<br />
with antiques and well-behaved waiters, <strong>si</strong>t amidst opulent<br />
detritus and feast from a menu including more fancy dishes<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
than you could eat in a year including baked potatoes with<br />
caviar, lamb cutlet with honey and truffles plus a battalion<br />
of fabulous desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-31).<br />
PJAGB<br />
Argentino M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1<br />
523 36 30, www.argentino.<strong>si</strong>. The journey out to BTC is<br />
well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced<br />
to be believed. Huge, and based on a clas<strong>si</strong>c Argentinean<br />
hacienda on two levels with further seating out<strong>si</strong>de,<br />
the interior de<strong>si</strong>gner had a great time thinking this one up.<br />
Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors,<br />
a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen. Q Open<br />
Mon-Thur 08:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(€5.20-45). PTAR6UILGBXS<br />
Atrium H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 14 70 27 00,<br />
fax (+386) 14 70 27 08, info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotel.<br />
mons.<strong>si</strong>. The menu at the flagship restaurant of the Mons<br />
Hotel and Congress Centre is a sublime mix of the traditional<br />
and the contemporary. Clas<strong>si</strong>c dishes are brought to life<br />
with modern twists, such as the saddle of lamb served with<br />
pears and polenta. The wine list is one of the city’s best, and<br />
the forest setting perfect for escaping the city centre heat.<br />
An absolute gem. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €16.<br />
PTHULGKW<br />
Emonska Klet C-3, Plečnikov Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1 42 19<br />
300, emonska.klet@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.emonskaklet.com. A<br />
bustling cavernous basement restaurant with exposed brick<br />
décor that gives it something of a wine cellar feel, the menu<br />
con<strong>si</strong>sts of traditionally inspired dishes and favourites like<br />
pizza, with a good salad bar thrown in. While the lightning<br />
speed with which pasta and <strong>si</strong>milar fare are delivered leads<br />
one to suspect a microwave-driven, assembly line operation<br />
in the kitchen, the tastiness of the food and fact that none<br />
of it exceeds €7 makes Emonska Klet an enjoyable dining<br />
experience. Q (€3.5-7). PTJAGBXW<br />
JB D-1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13 58, info@<br />
jb-slo.com, www.jb-slo.com. Firmly entrenched as one<br />
of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience<br />
comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž<br />
(hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more<br />
impo<strong>si</strong>ng seces<strong>si</strong>onist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of<br />
well-to-do locals and vi<strong>si</strong>ting bu<strong>si</strong>nessmen - guaranteeing<br />
you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety<br />
of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal<br />
specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as<br />
bear meat appearing from time to time. The only down<strong>si</strong>de<br />
is the price, ea<strong>si</strong>ly topping €50 per person for a proper meal<br />
with wine. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
31
32 restAurAnts<br />
Jurman N-3, Zaloška 151, tel. (+386) 51 358 358,<br />
pizzeria.jurman@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.jurman-sp.<strong>si</strong>. Located<br />
on the outskirts of town, this popular family-friendly gostilna<br />
packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have a bit of<br />
everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere that manages<br />
to include knights, a waterfall and an video arcade all<br />
under the same roof. The logo features a waiter sprinting<br />
hands full to someone’s table, and true enough the waiters<br />
are hurrying around making sure everyone is seen to quickly<br />
whether they are in<strong>si</strong>de or out near the children’s play area on<br />
the astroturfed patio. It’s a good budget-conscious option and<br />
the food isn’t half-bad either. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12).<br />
PTAULVGBS<br />
Lunch Café Marley & Me D-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386)<br />
8 380 66 10/(+386) 40 564 188, info@lunchcafe.net,<br />
www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped pine, friendly profes<strong>si</strong>onal<br />
service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city,<br />
despite the name this intimate bistro-type restaurant is open<br />
for breakfast and dinner as well and comes highly recommended.<br />
Standouts from the small yet varied menu include<br />
the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas and some truly<br />
memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the<br />
place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during<br />
the day is a common occurrence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€3-19). PJA6UGBXSW<br />
Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03 95,<br />
www.neboticnik.<strong>si</strong>. Only opened the last week of September,<br />
this restaurant on the 10th floor of the Nebotičnik<br />
building looks like something out of New York in the 1920s<br />
(or at least films set in New York in the 1920s). A wooden<br />
spiral staircase leads down to the large dining area which<br />
has been completely restored from the stone floors to the<br />
high recessed ceilings, including furniture custom-de<strong>si</strong>gned<br />
in the style of the 80 year-old originals. With sweeping views<br />
of the city in all directions, it offers a dining experience like<br />
none other in Ljubljana. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (€7-24).<br />
PJALEG<br />
Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, plato@<br />
<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.plato.<strong>si</strong>. Located right in the centre of town<br />
next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings<br />
- a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting<br />
architectural liberties - this newer restaurant is something<br />
of an oa<strong>si</strong>s above the bustling square below. The lunch-time<br />
only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy<br />
Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending<br />
on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at<br />
local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus<br />
you can also order à la carte, although if you haven’t had a<br />
chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the<br />
attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW<br />
Salon D-3, Trubarjeva 23, tel. (+386) 59 19 04 00, www.<br />
salon.<strong>si</strong>. Finally reopened after some exten<strong>si</strong>ve renovations,<br />
the former café-cum-bar may have kept the same name, but<br />
has otherwise been transformed into a stylish upmarket<br />
restaurant, replete with de<strong>si</strong>gner furnishings, live DJs and a<br />
head chef who previously worked in a two Michelin star establishment.<br />
The menu has elements of Italian, Japanese and<br />
even Mexican cui<strong>si</strong>ne, but can best be described as modern<br />
international, and the food is complimented by great service<br />
from the smartly-dressed staff. The kitchen also stays open<br />
till early morning, so if fancy cuscus with sea bass at 2am you<br />
know where to go. Q Open Mon-Tues 09:00-01:00, Wed-Sat<br />
09:00-03:00. Closed Sun. (€7-18).<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00,<br />
sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. Officially<br />
one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award<br />
to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well<br />
worth your time. The central location, the delightfully <strong>si</strong>mple<br />
- mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding<br />
service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the<br />
tables overlooking the lounge: among the most soughtafter<br />
in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00.<br />
PTJHAULGKW<br />
Smrekarjev Hram D-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1308<br />
19 75, www.gh-union.<strong>si</strong>. Another of Ljubljana’s upscale<br />
eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long<br />
wine list, made up of exclu<strong>si</strong>vely local bottles with the sole<br />
exception being French champagne for those particularly<br />
special occa<strong>si</strong>ons. Make sure you leave room for a main and<br />
a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat<br />
dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce,<br />
finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla icecream.<br />
The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the<br />
funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun<br />
to somewhere with more than a touch of class. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 23:00. (€14-50). PTJA6ULEGBSW<br />
Italian<br />
Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1 423 24 23,<br />
azur@telemach.net, www.azur-tratorija.<strong>si</strong>. A Ljubljana<br />
institution <strong>si</strong>nce 1994, Azur recently underwent some noticeable<br />
changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange façade,<br />
which has been replaced with more muted tones and reflects<br />
a generally improved level of quality and sophistication, and<br />
an expan<strong>si</strong>ve wine list, full multi-course daily lunch specials<br />
and a more profes<strong>si</strong>onal staff all cater to the bu<strong>si</strong>ness crowd<br />
that keeps the placing buzzing during the day. Of course the<br />
award-winning pizza has remained unchanged, and the location<br />
still makes for a convenient stop on a trip to or from the<br />
nearby zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(€4.90-14.90). PTAULGBS<br />
Al Capone M-2, Šmartinska 152b, Citypark, BTC City,<br />
tel. (+386) 1 541 00 61, fax (+386) 1 585 22 04, info@<br />
teman.<strong>si</strong>, www.al-capone.<strong>si</strong>. Despite taking its name from<br />
the notorious American gangster, this Italian eatery is an entirely<br />
family-friendly spot to grab a bite. Located in the always bustling<br />
food court at City Park, the pasta and pizza cafeteria does its best<br />
to affect a rustic feel with brick walls and aged wooden chairs, and<br />
what it inevitably lacks in ambience it more than makes up for with<br />
large portions of tasty fare. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€6-10). PTAULGW<br />
Kavalino E-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. (+386) 1232 09 90,<br />
www.kavalino.<strong>si</strong>. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone alleyway<br />
between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian<br />
restaurant specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you<br />
see upon entering is a tasteful dining area with an indoor<br />
tree in the corner that rises up to a skylight. Further back<br />
there’s a smaller dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling,<br />
and upstairs is a café. The service might not be the<br />
friendliest, but at least it’s efficient, and the varied and<br />
tasty lunch specials are downright cheap. Definitely worth<br />
finding. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (€6-18). PTJA6GBXSW<br />
San Martino M-2, BTC City, tel. (+386) 1 585 22<br />
70, fax (+386) 1 585 22 04, info@teman.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
sanmartino.<strong>si</strong>. A shockingly good looking restaurant on<br />
the edge of the sprawling BTC Center. The restaurant has a<br />
hip and stylish staff, two terraces for out<strong>si</strong>de eating, a large<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
dining room, and a white leather sofa’d room in the middle for<br />
relaxing and <strong>si</strong>pping on coffee or wine. Oh and the food? Italian<br />
trattoria pastas and pizzas. If you’re in the mall and absolutely<br />
famished, escape the food courts and come directly here for a<br />
proper meal. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4,80-15).<br />
PTAUILEGBXW<br />
Trattoria Katrca J-3, Rožna Dolina I/26a, tel. (+386)<br />
1 422 88 40, katrca1905@gmail.com, www.katrca.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Speciali<strong>si</strong>ng in Tuscan cui<strong>si</strong>ne, this century-old inn has a menu<br />
that puts most of its competition to shame. Going well beyond<br />
the run-of-the-mill noodle and sauce offerings, this is the place<br />
to tuck into some truly fantastic creations, such as pasta with<br />
prawns, bacon and chilli pepper or truffle and honey risotto.<br />
The meat dishes are also a cut above most, with horse, turkey<br />
and wild boar taking centre stage. The recently renovated<br />
premises also include several spacious and well-equipped<br />
rooms upstairs (<strong>si</strong>ngles €65, doubles €85). QOpen 07:00 -<br />
23:30. Closed Sun. (€6.50-27). PALG<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1 423 24 23,<br />
info@pizzeria-azur.<strong>si</strong>, www.pizzeria-azur.<strong>si</strong>. A Ljubljana<br />
institution <strong>si</strong>nce 1994, Azur recently underwent some noticeable<br />
changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange façade,<br />
which has been replaced with more muted tones and reflects<br />
a generally improved level of quality and sophistication, and<br />
an expan<strong>si</strong>ve wine list, full multi-course daily lunch specials<br />
and a more profes<strong>si</strong>onal staff all cater to the bu<strong>si</strong>ness crowd<br />
that keeps the placing buzzing during the day. Of course the<br />
award-winning pizza has remained unchanged, and the location<br />
still makes for a convenient stop on a trip to or from the<br />
nearby zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(€4.90-14.90). PTAULGBS<br />
February - March 2011<br />
33
34 restAurAnts<br />
NEW<br />
Medana K-4, Cesta v Mestni Log 3, tel. (+386) 1 283<br />
21 37/(+386) 1 283 21 38, gostilna.medana@<strong>si</strong>ol.<br />
net, www.gostilna-medana.<strong>si</strong>. Named after one of our<br />
favourite villages in Slovenia’s idyllic Goriška Brda wine region,<br />
this new restaurant located just south of the city centre in<br />
Murgle won us over as soon as we heard of the place. The<br />
oft-changing seasonally influenced menu is purposely kept<br />
on the short <strong>si</strong>de, but doesn’t disappoint - with an ample<br />
selection of pasta, risotto, meat and fish dishes - and the wine<br />
list is expectedly robust, with vineyards from Brda obviously<br />
well-represented. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Zajčja Dobrava Novo Polje III/27, tel. (+386) 1 54 74<br />
806, rezervacije@zajcja-dobrava.com. Resembling some<br />
kind of alpine hacienda placed amongst meadows and forests<br />
a short drive east of the city centre, this year-old Mediterranean<br />
restaurant has already developed a loyal following<br />
and seems destined to become a favourite of city folk who<br />
truly appreciate quality food, service and atmosphere. It’s<br />
also the definition of ‘family-friendly’ with multiple children’s<br />
play areas and even the pos<strong>si</strong>bility to go horseback riding<br />
next door. To get there turn left at the unmissable Virgin<br />
Mary Church in Polje and then right on Novo Polje Cesta<br />
after the train underpass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-20).<br />
TA6ILB<br />
Many more restaurants online at<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Mexican<br />
Cantina Mexicana C-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod,<br />
tel. (+386) 1426 93 25, www.cantina-mexicanarestaurantes.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Fun on two floors in one of the city’s most<br />
popular courtyards, Cantina Mexicana is po<strong>si</strong>tively aglow<br />
with bright colours, strange sculptures, grass growing on the<br />
ceiling and some nice lighting tricks behind the long groundfloor<br />
bar. The food is clas<strong>si</strong>c Tex-Mex as you’d expect, and<br />
appears to be fairly popular. If nothing else, this is one of<br />
the quirkiest and <strong>si</strong>lliest places in the city centre and even<br />
if you’re not hungry is well worth a vi<strong>si</strong>t for a drink or two.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90).<br />
PTJA6GBSW<br />
Pizza<br />
Foculus C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 92<br />
95, foculus@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.foculus.com. Magnificently<br />
decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place<br />
automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted<br />
ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the<br />
roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy<br />
Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for<br />
vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also<br />
particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the<br />
evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes<br />
for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in<br />
Ljubljana by IYP readers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40).<br />
PTJAUGBS<br />
Oliva M-4, Litijska 38, tel. (+386) 51 686 666, www.<br />
pizzeria-oliva.com. This large and popular pizzeria is located<br />
a bit further than walking-distance to the east of the city<br />
centre, but luckily for you (or at least us) they will gladly deliver<br />
to pretty much anywhere in Ljubljana seven days a week. The<br />
menu features standard Italian fare, along with dozens of pizzas<br />
- including such exotic offerings as the Robin Hood (with<br />
venison salami, mushrooms and sour cream), Eight Tastes<br />
(which includes hot dogs, beef sausage, artichoke, eggplant<br />
and tuna among others) and our personal favourite, the double<br />
dough Beer Drinker’s pizza, perfect for soaking up a night’s<br />
worth of Laško. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-16).<br />
Parma B/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82<br />
22, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one,<br />
this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here<br />
is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and<br />
served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you<br />
go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a<br />
look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction<br />
of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the<br />
stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6).<br />
TJA6ULGBXSW<br />
Tr ta D-5, Grudnovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1 426<br />
50 66, trta@s5.net, www.trta.<strong>si</strong>. Trta is the most<br />
frequently heard answer to the question: Who makes the<br />
best pizza in Ljubljana? - and not without good reason.<br />
Its wood-fired oven churns out some truly delectable<br />
pies, which tend to be a bit more substantial than most<br />
of the thin-crusted competition. Our personal favourite is<br />
probably the Toskanska, with rocket and pancetta among<br />
other toppings, but with over 40 different pizzas crowding<br />
onto the menu you won’t be left wanting for choices. Located<br />
in a yellow house along the right bank a short walk<br />
south of the city centre, Trta comes highly recommended.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
PAGBS<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Quick Eats<br />
Hot Horse B-2, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 15 21 14<br />
27, www.hot-horse.<strong>si</strong>. Eating horses may horrify most British<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>tors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much<br />
Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and<br />
easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling.<br />
Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in<br />
Tivoli Park and just out<strong>si</strong>de BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon<br />
10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS<br />
Konkurenca D-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. (+386)<br />
1430 52 26. Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in or take<br />
away around the clock just southwest of the train and bus<br />
stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for<br />
some of the cheapest eats in town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Open 24hrs. (€1-5). J<br />
Opcija E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 6, tel. (+386) 1 620<br />
92 57, www.opcija.<strong>si</strong>. In a break from traditional train station<br />
fare, Opcija offers a staggering selection of freshly made<br />
sandwiches and salads at fairly reasonable prices. They also<br />
deliver Mon-Fri from 10:00-18:00 on orders over €8. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. (€2.5-3).<br />
Smith’s C/D-2, Dalmatinova 2, www.smiths.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Ljubljana’s premier gourmet sandwich shop now has a<br />
second location under the Ajdovščina commercial centre<br />
just off Slovenska. Choose from a dozen or so combinations<br />
of fillings - our personal favourite is probably the Surf & Turf<br />
with chicken and shrimps - as well as the type of bread, or<br />
create your own and pay per ingredient. You’ll never be able<br />
to settle for pre-packaged vending machine or supermarket<br />
sandwiches again. QOpen 06:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
(€1.55-3.60). JVS<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
For a cosy evening and great food, stop by one of the many<br />
restaurants serving traditonal Slovenian fare<br />
Slovenian<br />
In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian - with sheep<br />
and cows on it’s mountain pastures giving meat and milk<br />
products, the Mediterranean fresh providing seafood,<br />
and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy,<br />
you might as well call it world cui<strong>si</strong>ne. One thing that is<br />
unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned<br />
Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade<br />
food that would make your granny grin.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
35
36 restAurAnts<br />
Gostilna na Brinju K-1, Vodovodna 44, tel. (+386) 1<br />
565 94 90, fax (+386) 1 565 94 95. One of the capital’s<br />
best known traditional Slovene restaurants, little has changed<br />
at this Ljubljana mainstay for well over half a century. Now in<br />
the third generation of the Marinčič family, Brinje has managed<br />
to maintain the air of an unassuming neighbourhood diner<br />
despite its popularity and clientele (many of the country’s<br />
top power-brokers are regulars). Of course it helps to have<br />
had the same furniture for 50 years and the same cook for<br />
almost as long. The menu is quite exten<strong>si</strong>ve and changes<br />
seasonally, but year-round the house specialty remains<br />
obscenely large portions of high quality meat, followed by<br />
Solnograški žličniki - a one-of-a-kind dessert invented by the<br />
family matron. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€7-<br />
18). PTA6UILBX<br />
Gostilna na Gradu D-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. (+386) 8<br />
205 19 30, www.nagradu.<strong>si</strong>. After months of preparation,<br />
the long-awaited restaurant at Ljubljana Castle finally opened<br />
in September. Decidedly upmarket in appearance and service,<br />
the prices are surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly modest - especially given the truly<br />
unique location and dining experience that goes along with<br />
it. Na Gradu’s award-winning chefs pride themselves on the<br />
expert preparation of Slovenia’s diverse range of traditional<br />
dishes, which have been developed over the centuries in the<br />
country’s 24 separate gastronomic regions, with nearly all of<br />
the ingredients being locally produced. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€5-12). PTJALB<br />
NEW<br />
Gostilnica Rimska XXI B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1<br />
256 56 54, zmauc@<strong>si</strong>ol.net. Only opened in January, this<br />
promi<strong>si</strong>ng Slovene eatery was still operating on a limited menu<br />
and awaiting the imminent arrival of a new chef as we went to<br />
print, but we like what we’ve seen so far: low arched ceilings,<br />
moody red walls and a touch of rustic furnishings. By early<br />
February the kitchen should be turning out fresh homemade<br />
Slovene cui<strong>si</strong>ne, and feature specialities such as deer, fish<br />
and wood-baked meat dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Jelen Celovška 462, tel. (+386) 1 5161 545, info@<br />
pen<strong>si</strong>on-jelen.eu, www.pen<strong>si</strong>on-jelen.eu. Located in Šiška<br />
some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant<br />
has been serving locals and tourists alike <strong>si</strong>nce 1878.<br />
There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as<br />
an assortment of tasty Balkan-style grilled meats and pizzas<br />
from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped<br />
modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early<br />
morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much<br />
to make it very far from the table.<br />
Pri Škofu C-5, Rečna 8, tel. (+386) 14 26 45 08,<br />
priskofu@volja.net. Hidden down a small <strong>si</strong>de street in<br />
Krakovo, Pri Škofu is a long-time favourite of cash-strapped<br />
univer<strong>si</strong>ty students who still like to enjoy a proper meal from<br />
time to time, and you’re virtually guaranteed to see at least<br />
a couple bespectacled hipsters seated at a table nearby.<br />
The €8 lunch specials come in obscenely large portions and<br />
are one of the best values in town. Although there’s no menu<br />
it’s also pos<strong>si</strong>ble to order à la carte, and an English-speaking<br />
waitress will gladly rattle off what’s available QOpen 07:00 -<br />
23:00. (€5-20). PJA<br />
Vodnikov Hram D/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12<br />
34 52 60, www.vodnikov-hram.<strong>si</strong>. Named after Valentin<br />
Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene<br />
poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent<br />
square, it’s one of the better known places to sample<br />
traditional Slovenian cui<strong>si</strong>ne in Ljubljana. Dining under its<br />
vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is<br />
grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re<br />
waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the<br />
castle. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€5-28).<br />
PTA6ULGSW<br />
Spanish<br />
Don Felipe E-4, Streliška 22, tel. (+386) 14 34 38<br />
62, info@donfelipe.net, www.donfelipe.net. Ljubljana’s<br />
only proper Spanish restaurant would likely stand out even<br />
if had some competition. Lots of exposed wood and worn<br />
floors give the place a charming rustic feel, and the service<br />
is excellent (if not overwhelmingly fast during peak hours). A<br />
lengthy tapas menu is complimented by an equally exten<strong>si</strong>ve<br />
wine list, and the daily three-course lunch special should keep<br />
you busy for a good hour and a half for less than €10. Check<br />
their web<strong>si</strong>te for details about upcoming Flamenco shows,<br />
which are usually held every couple of weeks. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. (€4-23).<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Ajdovo Zrno D-3, Trubarjeva 7, ajdovo.zrno@gmail.com,<br />
www.satwa.<strong>si</strong>/. This popular vegetarian café is tucked away<br />
in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian<br />
street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when<br />
you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the<br />
dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads<br />
of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and<br />
even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and<br />
smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen<br />
with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably<br />
even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
(€2-6). PJABS<br />
Vegedrom J-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. (+386) 15 13 26<br />
42, info@vegedrom.com, www.vegedrom.com. A<br />
vegetarian can certainly stuff themselves on vegetable<br />
pizzas and <strong>si</strong>de salads in the center of town, but if it is<br />
real healthy vegetarian meals you are after then head to<br />
the outskirts and try Vegedrom. The restaurant creates<br />
vegetarian, organic and vegan meals inspired by Slovenian<br />
and Indian cui<strong>si</strong>ne, with daily specials and special lunch<br />
sets that include soup, salad, and a sweet. A worthwhile<br />
trek for something healthy and delicious. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4-10).<br />
TA6ULGBXS<br />
One of the many sweet creations from Dulcis in BTC<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite<br />
things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire<br />
old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés<br />
that line nearly every street. During the colder months<br />
things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking<br />
ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons out<strong>si</strong>de<br />
huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on<br />
coffee’s <strong>si</strong>gnificant other. The most popular places can be<br />
found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and<br />
Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the oppo<strong>si</strong>te bank, but with so<br />
many options to choose from just wandering around until<br />
you find a place you fancy is never a bad option.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live mu<strong>si</strong>c S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R Internet L Guarded parking<br />
O Ca<strong>si</strong>no J Old Town location<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
B Out<strong>si</strong>de seating V Home delivery<br />
Café Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80,<br />
plato@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.plato.<strong>si</strong>. A stylish and still relatively<br />
new café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes<br />
and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the<br />
centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for<br />
some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also<br />
a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more<br />
than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer<br />
that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). PT�<br />
JA6GBXSW<br />
Čez Cesto D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. (+386) 1470<br />
47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpretentious<br />
spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local<br />
market, rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth<br />
more investigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine<br />
and spirits and the most extraordinary white chandelier.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TJAUGS<br />
Cha (Čajna Hiša) D-4, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 12 52 70<br />
10, cha@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.cha.<strong>si</strong>. When it’s all just to much,<br />
it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s<br />
exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the<br />
world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s<br />
a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic<br />
tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds<br />
to the special feel of the place. An on-<strong>si</strong>te shop sells the dry<br />
ver<strong>si</strong>on too. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed<br />
Sun. TJAGBS<br />
Drago F Tinta D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27. Named after<br />
the late Slovene-Chilean author, the cultural credentials of this<br />
river<strong>si</strong>de café are beyond reproach. In addition to bi-monthly<br />
art exhibitions and Saturday morning book readings, there’s<br />
also an informal ‘leave one, take one’ book exchange boasting<br />
a more diverse selection of English language titles than most<br />
of the city’s bookshops. Throw in the high ceilings, comfortable<br />
bench-style seating, free Wi-Fi and laid back soundtrack<br />
and this place seems destined to become a favourite<br />
amongst the univer<strong>si</strong>ty hipster crowd. PJBSW<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
CAFÉs<br />
One thing Ljubljana is not lacking in is cafés, photo by<br />
Flavio Takemoto<br />
Dulcis Caffe M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1 585<br />
22 56, www.dulcis.<strong>si</strong>. Located at the market (Tržnica) in the BTC<br />
shopping complex and styled after a clas<strong>si</strong>c French patisserie,<br />
Dulcis prepares some of the most delectable traditional sweets<br />
and home-baked goods around. One of their specialities is a cake<br />
made with apricots, herbs and aromatic cinnamon, which they<br />
claim is an aphrodi<strong>si</strong>ac. It’s definitely worth a stopping by if you<br />
find the need to satisfy your sweet tooth while out for a day of<br />
shopping. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. PTALVBS<br />
Grajska Kavarna D-4, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Castle),<br />
tel. (+386) 14 39 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana Castle’s<br />
very own café is housed in<strong>si</strong>de a dismal-looking 1980s concrete<br />
monstro<strong>si</strong>ty well overdue for a facelift. Retaining much<br />
of its original communist-era look, the interior is fun if you’re<br />
in the area, and is a good place to stock up on fruit juice,<br />
wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches and a Harry Potter ice cream.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PTJA6GBSW<br />
Kavarna Tromostovje D-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. (+386)<br />
1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.<strong>si</strong>. Here near<br />
Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), along<strong>si</strong>de the<br />
river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This<br />
open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in<br />
the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals<br />
and tourists <strong>si</strong>tting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream,<br />
soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a<br />
daytime concert on the square. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />
TJ6UENBXSW<br />
Le Petit Café C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel.<br />
(+386) 12 51 25 75. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables<br />
of bubbly locals and clued-up vi<strong>si</strong>tors drink coffee, tea and<br />
look utterly Pari<strong>si</strong>an without even trying. Every other cafe in<br />
Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why.<br />
What’s more, it is not even expen<strong>si</strong>ve: big omelets and tasty<br />
toasted sandwiches all come in at around €3.50. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Lolita D-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 5 901 62<br />
99/(+386) 41 344 189, kaval-group.<strong>si</strong>. With absurdly high<br />
ceilings, exposed brick walls, great views through huge plate<br />
glass windows and super comfortable seating, this newly<br />
opened river<strong>si</strong>de café leaves little to be de<strong>si</strong>red - the place<br />
even smells great thanks to bouquets of fresh cut flowers at the<br />
entrance. Delectable-looking cakes are displayed in speciallybuilt<br />
cases, and gourmet chocolates and teas are also on<br />
sale. We didn’t think Ljubljana had room for any more cafés, but<br />
Lolita proved us wrong. Q Open Mon-Thur 08:00-22:00, Fri-Sat<br />
08:00-23:00 and Sun 09:00-21:00. PJAGBX<br />
February - March 2011<br />
37
38 CAFÉs<br />
Maček D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 14 25 37 91, www.<br />
macek-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking<br />
places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something<br />
a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls<br />
decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits<br />
of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular<br />
with families toting young children during the weekends.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6GBSW<br />
Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03<br />
95, www.neboticnik.<strong>si</strong>. After being shuttered for nearly a<br />
decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the<br />
public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik<br />
(or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest re<strong>si</strong>dential<br />
structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s<br />
360 degree views from Alps to the castle to the hills in the<br />
south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee and cakes aren’t<br />
bad either. This is a must see stop for all vi<strong>si</strong>tors. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 03:00.<br />
Pri Semaforju C-4, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893<br />
664. Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several<br />
different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to<br />
<strong>si</strong>t either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your<br />
fancy. Lively, upbeat mu<strong>si</strong>c provides a soundtrack for all manner<br />
of pierced teenagers to <strong>si</strong>t around and plan revolutions<br />
over a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange<br />
juice, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to<br />
leave your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. TJ6UGBXSW<br />
SEM Kavarna F-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Museum),<br />
tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look<br />
café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a<br />
glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too<br />
pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all<br />
the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s<br />
more interesting characters. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PT�<br />
JA6UGBXSW<br />
STA Travel Cafe C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439<br />
16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.<br />
com. There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the<br />
clinical sounding name. Set on a big terrace with a good<br />
view and lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons.<br />
When all that virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you<br />
can sate them with your choice from a wide range of<br />
sandwiches. The TV is set to the travel channel so you<br />
can look at where you’ve been, where you’re going or<br />
where you want to head off to next, and every second<br />
Wednesday you can attend the travel presentations and<br />
wash all the free information down with beer, wine, coffee,<br />
tea or a soft drink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
PJ6UGBXW<br />
Zvezda C-3, Wolfova 14, tel. (+386) 14 21 90 90,<br />
kavarna.zvezda@<strong>si</strong>ol.net. A bustling café frequented<br />
by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old<br />
ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your clas<strong>si</strong>c<br />
Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues<br />
and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest<br />
café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee<br />
is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes<br />
are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also<br />
have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska 34<br />
open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2,80-3). PT�<br />
JAUGBSW<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
For a place its <strong>si</strong>ze Ljubljana has a vibrant dynamic nightlife that would be the envy of much larger cities. While this<br />
is thanks in part to the huge proportion of students re<strong>si</strong>ding in the capital - univer<strong>si</strong>ty students alone account for<br />
nearly a quarter of the population - the variety of bars, pubs and clubs is a testament to the increa<strong>si</strong>ngly diverse<br />
tastes of the city’s inhabitants. Last month the IYP editorial team chose the finalists across <strong>si</strong>x categories, and let<br />
our readers decide who was best.<br />
Congratulations to all the winners, and thanks to everyone who voted!
40 nightLiFe<br />
Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place<br />
goes po<strong>si</strong>tively Mediterranean during the summer, with<br />
cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the<br />
early hours as locals and vi<strong>si</strong>tors alike <strong>si</strong>mply forget to go<br />
home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours<br />
too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still<br />
packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is<br />
something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most<br />
of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.<br />
Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city,<br />
and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about<br />
walking home on your own late at night.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live mu<strong>si</strong>c S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R Internet L Guarded parking<br />
O Ca<strong>si</strong>no J Old Town location<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
B Out<strong>si</strong>de seating V Home delivery<br />
Bars<br />
Atrium H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700,<br />
fax (+386) 147 02 708, info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.mons.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers<br />
delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection<br />
of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must.<br />
The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PHLGKW<br />
Bi-Ko-Fe C-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93 93.<br />
Situated on a sloping cobbled lane oppo<strong>si</strong>te the central univeristy<br />
building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters<br />
(or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and<br />
the like. The out<strong>si</strong>de terrace is crowded from open till close<br />
- thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and<br />
the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere<br />
more akin to a house party than a bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW<br />
Compañeros C-2, Slovenska 51, companeros.5121@<br />
yahoo.com, barclubcompaneros.blogspot.com/. A fixture<br />
of Ljubljana’s nightlife scene for over a decade, other than<br />
the name the only thing that has remained the same is its<br />
reputation for hosting wild student parties. Upstairs there’s<br />
a covered outdoor terrace and atmospheric lounge area with<br />
lots of worn wood, arched ceilings and burnt orange and brown<br />
walls. Downstairs is a recently opened club that takes full advantage<br />
of its location in the bowels of the Austro-Hungarian<br />
era building, and also includes a smoking room. The mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
varies depending on the night with live bands at least a few<br />
times per month. Recommended. Q Mon-Fri 11:00-05:00,<br />
Sat-Sun 13:00-03:00. Closed on Sun from 1 July to 15 August.<br />
PJAGBXS<br />
The red-carpeted foyer of Ljubljana’s landmark Netboticnik building - 11 floors up is the city’s highest lounge and bar.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
BEST OF 2011<br />
Hugo Barrera D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel.<br />
(+386) 40 177 477. Located along the river bank beneath<br />
Plečnik’s colonaded Centralna Tržnica arcade, this Latin<br />
flavoured club is aimed at an older crowd, or at least those<br />
who can appreciate (and afford) a glass of quality <strong>si</strong>ngle malt<br />
scotch from Ljubljana’s most exten<strong>si</strong>ve whisky collection. It’s<br />
also made a name for itself among Ljubljana’s late night scene<br />
with live mu<strong>si</strong>c at the weekends. Stop by during the day for<br />
free Wi-Fi and one-of-a-kind coffee specially imported from<br />
Brazil. Q Mon-Wed 07:30-02:00, Thur-Sat 07:30-03:00,<br />
Sun 10:00-02:00. PJAEW<br />
Makalonca C/D-3, Hribarjevo Nabrežje 19, tel.<br />
(+386) 40 42 71 67, makalonca@makalonca.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
makalonca.<strong>si</strong>. After several years hiatus, and several months<br />
of renovations, Makalonca reopened in September 2009<br />
with much fanfare - and deservedly so, as it occupies one of<br />
the coolest locations in the Ljubljana. Located below street<br />
level along the Hribar Quay, it offers a quieter, more relaxed<br />
atmosphere than can be found at the strip of bars and cafés<br />
on the Ljubljanica’s oppo<strong>si</strong>te bank (or at least on nights when<br />
they forego the electronic mu<strong>si</strong>c). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03 95,<br />
www.neboticnik.<strong>si</strong>. There’s no better place in the city to enjoy<br />
a cocktail (or a beer or a cigar for that matter) than the recently<br />
reopened bar and lounge at the top of the Nebotičnik building.<br />
The 11th floor has been renovated in line with the original<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gn from back in 1933, meaning dark and atmospheric with<br />
lots of wood, stone and ample couches. While the 12th floor<br />
has a more modern feel to it, with white leather chairs and an<br />
open terrace offering unparalleled views of the city and beyond.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
nightLiFe<br />
Opera Bar C-3, Cankarjeva 12, tel. (+386) 14 21 03 90,<br />
terra.australis.opera@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.opera-bar.com. A<br />
bright, large, colourful space popular with many of the city’s<br />
more well-heeled re<strong>si</strong>dents, including those who like to attend<br />
the opera house across the street, Opera Bar is your<br />
clas<strong>si</strong>c café-bar. It brims with good-looking types drinking<br />
coffee during the day and something a little stronger later<br />
on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership explains the huge<br />
Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls. QOpen , Mon, Tue,<br />
Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 -<br />
18:00. PJHAEGBXS<br />
Pri Zelenem Zajcu D-5, Rožna 3, www.prizelenemzajcu.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
This is a good place to head to if you want to find a<br />
small non-pretentious bar where the locals are friendly. Slowly<br />
rotating disco lights and trance type mu<strong>si</strong>c give the Rabbit a<br />
bohemian feel and you can either head into the green gloom or<br />
grab a drink and perch yourself at one of the couple of outdoor<br />
tables. Recommend for students or those who once were<br />
students and want to feel like one again, even if only for an<br />
evening, or for those who’ve never drunk ab<strong>si</strong>nthe and would<br />
like to give it a go. Q Open Mon-Wed 09:00-24:00, Thur-Sat<br />
09:00-01:00. Closed Sun. JA6EGBXW<br />
Sputnik I-4, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 51 627 000,<br />
fax (+386) 12 56 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
sputnik.<strong>si</strong>. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro<br />
furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people <strong>si</strong>tting on it,<br />
ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses<br />
with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik<br />
transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier<br />
place with occa<strong>si</strong>onal special events. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
PA6ULEGBXW<br />
February - March 2011<br />
41
42 nightLiFe<br />
Žmauc B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 12 51 03 24. Ask<br />
any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and<br />
they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered<br />
in quality graffiti out<strong>si</strong>de and always featuring a huddle of<br />
interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large<br />
cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude<br />
to what’s in<strong>si</strong>de. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and<br />
night with more strange characters amidst an interior de<strong>si</strong>gn<br />
scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent<br />
for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.<br />
PJA6GB<br />
Wine Bars<br />
Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the centuries in<br />
the country’s three wine growing regions producing a vast<br />
selection of excellent quality wines, predicate wines and<br />
sparkling wines. You can encounter all pleasures at any of<br />
the traditional gostilnas or wine cellars found in almost every<br />
street in Ljubljana. To make your choice ea<strong>si</strong>er try wines<br />
such as Teran, Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from<br />
the coastal region. Cviček, a Slovene wine with a light taste<br />
and low alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along<br />
with wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon,<br />
Chardonnay and Ranina.<br />
BEST OF 2011<br />
Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12<br />
57, guinnesspub@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.dvornibar.net. This<br />
large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day<br />
and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky<br />
jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while<br />
the other <strong>si</strong>de is a little more geared towards the restaurant<br />
crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a<br />
great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time<br />
to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and<br />
organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from<br />
20:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW<br />
eVino Bar M-2, Šmartinska 53, tel. (+386) 1 401<br />
8008, bar@evino.<strong>si</strong>, www.evino.<strong>si</strong>. Founded as a webonly<br />
venture back in 2005, eVino has <strong>si</strong>nce become one<br />
of the largest wine distributors in Slovenia, and now has<br />
its own wine bar where customers can sample the goods<br />
in a proper atmosphere before buying. In addition to the<br />
vast selection of wine - currently from nearly 100 producers<br />
representing over a dozen countries - they also offer<br />
a limited selection of premium spirits, some gourmet oils<br />
and vinegars, cigars and Antica coffee - a boutique brand<br />
widely con<strong>si</strong>dered to be one of the best in the world. They<br />
have wine tastings most Thursday nights. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
PHALBS<br />
Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 48,<br />
movia@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.movia.<strong>si</strong>. The Slovenian Movia<br />
vineyards have been producing quality plonk for longer than<br />
anyone can remember, and this, their little showcase wine<br />
bar in the old town, is a fine place to come and try some of<br />
their excellent products. Found slightly hidden away in<strong>si</strong>de<br />
a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than a<br />
telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and even<br />
serves a selection of food especially prepared to compliment<br />
the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX<br />
Pubs<br />
Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. (+386) 1426 62<br />
93, www.guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to<br />
keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable<br />
cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard<br />
in the heart of the student district. Draught beers include<br />
Guinness plus Kilkenny and that old English 80s favourite,<br />
Woodpecker cider. Friendly and different enough to be worthy<br />
of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pub-crawl<br />
list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.<br />
PJA6UGBX<br />
Parlament Pub C-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 251 32<br />
43. Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar<br />
oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and<br />
(you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for<br />
the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and<br />
cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively<br />
international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to<br />
both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are<br />
at the back <strong>si</strong>de of the building on Plečnikov Trg. QOpen 06:00<br />
- 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW<br />
Patrick’s Irish Pub D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230<br />
17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric<br />
of a society, not least to the ba<strong>si</strong>c atmosphere of the clas<strong>si</strong>c<br />
Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog<br />
that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall<br />
atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals,<br />
expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite<br />
Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus<br />
there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7).<br />
PTJA6EGSW<br />
Premier Pub C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 17, tel. (+386)<br />
1430 52 31. A pleasant enough river<strong>si</strong>de café-bar with its<br />
very own whiskey bar, sport on the televi<strong>si</strong>on, postcards from<br />
friends who long <strong>si</strong>nce moved on and good outdoor seating<br />
when the weather’s right. Hardly the sort of place to spend<br />
and entire evening in, but worth checking out all the same if<br />
you’re planning on drinking yourself up and down both <strong>si</strong>des<br />
of the water for the evening. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 01:00. PJA6ULEGX<br />
Sir William’s Pub D-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. (+386) 5<br />
99 44 825, <strong>si</strong>rwilliamspub@gmail.com. An all together<br />
clas<strong>si</strong>er affair than most other pubs in town, Sir William’s clientele<br />
is largely a reflection of its location between the national<br />
courthouse and Radio Televi<strong>si</strong>on Slovenia, as well as several<br />
bu<strong>si</strong>ness hotels. Billed as a literary café, there’s a selection of<br />
English and Slovene language books to peruse or exchange<br />
for, and a variety of events including book readings, wine tastings<br />
and cultural evenings. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat<br />
10:00-14:00, 19:00-24:00, Sun 17:00-24:00.<br />
BEST OF 2011<br />
Zlata Ladjica C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 12 41<br />
06 96, info@zltim.<strong>si</strong>, www.zlataladjica.<strong>si</strong>. The ‘Golden<br />
Ship’ has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging,<br />
sails and a DJ booth in<strong>si</strong>de a wooden barrel, the rum selection<br />
is surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor<br />
in <strong>si</strong>ght, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs<br />
any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are<br />
also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments,<br />
and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. There’s often<br />
€3 drink specials at the weekend - check the <strong>si</strong>gns out<strong>si</strong>de<br />
for what’s on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
PTJA6UEGBKXSW<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Rich Club<br />
nightLiFe<br />
February - March 2011<br />
43
44 nightLiFe<br />
Clubs<br />
Cvetličarna L-2, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) 59 02<br />
63 27, info@cvetlicarna.info, www.cvetlicarna.info.<br />
More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna<br />
is a good place to check out on Friday and Saturday<br />
nights. At other times it opens to host local and foreign<br />
bands, often well-known international and regional acts,<br />
as well as stand up comedians, including many English<br />
ones, on Mondays and some Tuesdays. The venue itself<br />
is big and the atmosphere is usually great. Check their<br />
web<strong>si</strong>te or Facebook page for a schedule of upcoming<br />
events.<br />
BEST OF 2011<br />
Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17<br />
063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com.<br />
As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally<br />
renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala<br />
hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per<br />
week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as<br />
a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system<br />
and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers<br />
and audiences, and from May till October a summer<br />
stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue,<br />
which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their<br />
web<strong>si</strong>te for a complete list of upcoming shows.<br />
Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61,<br />
info@klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. If you’re staying in a<br />
hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across<br />
the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the<br />
culprit can be found in<strong>si</strong>de Club K4. A very student-oriented<br />
club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the<br />
weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4<br />
also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Q<br />
Open Tue from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00, Sun from 22:00.<br />
Mon closed. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €7. PJAG<br />
Klub Top A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 66 77 22,<br />
info@klubtop.<strong>si</strong>, www.klubtop.<strong>si</strong>. Located on the top floor<br />
of the Nama department store in the centre of Ljubljana (hence<br />
the name), out<strong>si</strong>de it offers some of the best views in the<br />
city, while in<strong>si</strong>de the contemporary interior de<strong>si</strong>gn provides<br />
an exclu<strong>si</strong>ve ambience that can’t be found elsewhere. There<br />
is a full slate of parties throughout the week, with Tuesdays<br />
being student’s night, Wednesdays dedicated to RnB, private<br />
corporate events on Thursdays, serious clubber beats on<br />
Fridays and Black Magic/White House nights every Saturday,<br />
when guests are encouraged to wear masks. Q Lounge open<br />
Mon-Fri 08:30-20:00. Club open Tues-Sat 23:00-05:00.<br />
Closed Sundays. Admis<strong>si</strong>on: Free before 24:00 and €6 after.<br />
PJAEGBKW<br />
The selection of beer at Sir William’s Pub is hard to beat<br />
Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16<br />
74, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar and live mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious<br />
world of rock mu<strong>si</strong>c, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd<br />
in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking<br />
advantage of one of the few regular live mu<strong>si</strong>c venues in<br />
the city. The bar is worth vi<strong>si</strong>ting on its own. Long and thin,<br />
there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving<br />
the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. Q Open Mon-Wed<br />
08:00-04:00, Thur-Sat 08:00-05:00 and Sun 18:00-21:00.<br />
PALEGBX<br />
Rich Club I-4, Tržaška 118, tel. (+386) 41 826 001,<br />
richclub.lj@gmail.com. Ljubljana’s newest club is located in<br />
the neighbourhood of Vič southwest of the city centre, in an<br />
area that has become something of a nightlife hotspot in recent<br />
years with several bars and clubs within walking distance. As<br />
it’s name implies, Rich Club has a dress code, glossy interior<br />
and parking lot packed with <strong>si</strong>x-figure cars at the weekends.<br />
The mu<strong>si</strong>c alternates between house, techno and current pop<br />
hits, with frequent Balkan nights and special guest DJs thrown<br />
into the mix as well. Q Open Mon-Thur 06:00-22:00, Fri-Sat<br />
06:00-04:00, Sun 13:00-22:00.<br />
Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 51 210 000, info@<br />
ultra-club.<strong>si</strong>, www.ultra-club.<strong>si</strong>. One of the only proper<br />
clubs located directly in the city centre, you’re almost guaranteed<br />
to find a party raging here until the wee hours most<br />
nights of the week. DJs, theme nights and live concerts from<br />
some of the region’s biggest stars are the norm here, and<br />
scantily-clad Go-Go dancers are usually on hand to liven up<br />
the atmosphere. A full assortment of drinks and cocktails is<br />
a available, but for locals it’s perhaps even more popular to<br />
order vodka, whisky or other spirits by the bottle. QOpen<br />
20.00 - 06.00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJAG<br />
Billiards, Bowling, etc.<br />
Biljardna Hiša C-1, Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 12<br />
36 20 12, qb@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.biljardna-hisa.com.<br />
Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes<br />
walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Con<strong>si</strong>sting<br />
of one large open space underneath exposed wood<br />
rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty<br />
much exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s<br />
also a large glass-enclosed self-service smoking<br />
area - although unfortunately they have yet to cram<br />
any pool tables in there. You can expect at least a<br />
short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget<br />
to get your name on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
ALX<br />
Klub 300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1 510 39<br />
40, fax (+386) 1 510 39 41, info@bowlingklub300.<br />
com, www.bowlingklub300.com. If it’s a good time<br />
you need, Klub 300 is a friend indeed any day of the<br />
week. Order a ‘žirafa’ for the group (a 3-litre long tube<br />
of bubbling local beer which allows you to pour your<br />
own draught) and take on your friends or colleagues at<br />
the bowling alley, or a game of pool. At the weekends<br />
there’s Cosmic Bowling in the evening with well-known<br />
local DJs (reservations are pretty much a must). The VIP<br />
room is especially suited for bu<strong>si</strong>ness meetings who<br />
want to mix work with a bit of fun, and there’s even an<br />
Italian restaurant downstairs.QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />
14:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
PALGK<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
46 nightLiFe<br />
www.ultra-club.<strong>si</strong><br />
Best party in centre of Ljubljana<br />
Ultra People, Ultra place, Ultra mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
Ultra Live Concerts, Ultra GoGo girls,<br />
Ultra Djs, Ultra party, Ultra drinks,...<br />
EVERYTHING is ULTRA<br />
ULTRA CLUB, Nazorjeva 6, 1000 Ljubljana<br />
+386 51 210000 & info@ultra-club.<strong>si</strong><br />
Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52. While<br />
Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugoslavian<br />
days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes of the many<br />
cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati Zob the city’s<br />
new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the form of a <strong>si</strong>nger’s<br />
wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The cafe/club’s interior,<br />
full of Balkan artifacts and traditional instruments hanging off<br />
the walls, hints at the raucous nights of mu<strong>si</strong>c and dancing that<br />
occur when the sun goes down and various regional artists and<br />
DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 -<br />
03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PALEGBXW<br />
Turbo Folk<br />
En Pub H-1, Celovška 150, tel. (+386) 15 14 11 26,<br />
info@enpub.<strong>si</strong>, www.enpub.<strong>si</strong>. The true sounds of the<br />
suburbs echo around the walls of this extraordinary little<br />
place practically non-stop. Leave your gun in the car, clear<br />
security and the metal detector, and you’re free to indulge<br />
your wildest wishes. Every night is different, from hopelessly<br />
sentimental romantic nights of ballads to all-night DJ parties<br />
featuring the clas<strong>si</strong>c Turbo Folk girls. Refreshment features<br />
everything from bottles of ice-cold local beer to cocktails<br />
to ice cream, and they even do sandwiches and coffee for<br />
party animals who’ve moved on to other places that stay<br />
open even longer and come back again early in the morning.<br />
For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub <strong>si</strong>mply has to<br />
be experienced to be believed. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Thu<br />
06:30 - 03:00, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 24:00.PTA6ULGBXW<br />
Klub 12 Prušnikova 95/(+386) 041 67 85 77, www.<br />
klub-12.com. Turbo Folk’s clas<strong>si</strong>c Ljubljana after-party venue<br />
is a good few kilometres from the city centre and doesn’t<br />
see a <strong>si</strong>ngle client until around 04:00, but that’s all part of<br />
the fun really. After the other venues have closed their doors<br />
the deal is to pile into this dark underground cavern with its<br />
strange red lighting, pictures of naked women with bows and<br />
arrows on the walls and excruciatingly loud mu<strong>si</strong>c and carry<br />
on with the party. This is hedonism at its very best, to the<br />
point that many of the true hardcore followers of the faith<br />
scrabble out of here blurry eyed in the morning and start<br />
all over again. Unmisable for those who know and love how<br />
to party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00.<br />
PALEGX<br />
Jazz Clubs<br />
Mons Jazz Club G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386)<br />
1470 27 00, fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.<br />
mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.mons.<strong>si</strong>. One of the city’s top jazz<br />
venues. Every month or so the Mons hotel hosts top<br />
quality jazz featuring some of Europe’s finest performers.<br />
If you live in town or are a regular vi<strong>si</strong>tor, buy the<br />
season ticket” valid for all concer ts over the year.<br />
PAULGW<br />
Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) 1283 14 57.<br />
This is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his<br />
great aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffitispattered<br />
nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans,<br />
but in Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly<br />
small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls<br />
and a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus<br />
once referred to as black clas<strong>si</strong>cal mu<strong>si</strong>c. Most of the time<br />
the mu<strong>si</strong>c is pre-recorded, but they do have the occa<strong>si</strong>onal<br />
live band in from time to time. Call to see what’s on. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.<br />
JA6LEGBD<br />
Ca<strong>si</strong>nos<br />
The automated ca<strong>si</strong>no, or gaming saloon, has arrived in<br />
a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but<br />
no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get<br />
in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry<br />
ID to enter.<br />
Ca<strong>si</strong>no Kongo Ljubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje,<br />
tel. (+386) 1781 02 00, info@kongo-hc.com, www.<br />
kongo-hc.com. An African-themed gaming hall with<br />
electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once<br />
in<strong>si</strong>de, soft drinks and food are on the house, though<br />
there are two African restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ selfservice<br />
buffet) on <strong>si</strong>te too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />
12:00 - 02:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €10 (includes gambling tickets).<br />
POAULEGBKXW<br />
BEST OF 2011<br />
Ca<strong>si</strong>no Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386)<br />
1 518 56 46, ca<strong>si</strong>no.lev@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.ca<strong>si</strong>nolev.com.<br />
Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking<br />
waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of<br />
the same name. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. No admis<strong>si</strong>on fee.<br />
POJHAULEG<br />
Ca<strong>si</strong>no Rio J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520<br />
5650, info@ca<strong>si</strong>no-rio.<strong>si</strong>, www.ca<strong>si</strong>no-rio.<strong>si</strong>. A nonstop<br />
gambling saloon in<strong>si</strong>de the Arena entertainment<br />
centre. Four electronic roulette tables and over 150 other<br />
gaming machines vie for your euros. Food and drinks<br />
are served, and there’s occa<strong>si</strong>onal entertainment too.<br />
Q Open 24hrs. No admis<strong>si</strong>on. POAG<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make<br />
space for sexy and <strong>si</strong>nful late night entertainment for<br />
adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are<br />
several strip clubs in Ljubljana that have recently sprung<br />
up around the city displaying a diver<strong>si</strong>ty of foreign girls<br />
for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you<br />
company if you buy them an (expen<strong>si</strong>ve) drink, and we<br />
mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs<br />
usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit.<br />
Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74.<br />
On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings<br />
are con<strong>si</strong>stent with the rock club atmosphere that<br />
is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease,<br />
but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus<br />
here with private dances available at your table or in one<br />
of the back rooms. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €16.<br />
PJAG<br />
BEST OF 2011<br />
Hard Core Club G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41 71<br />
66 12, info@hardcorecafe.<strong>si</strong>, www.hardcorecafe.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a<br />
taxi and head here. The concept is <strong>si</strong>mple: outstanding erotic<br />
entertainment provided by prefes<strong>si</strong>onals in a safe environment<br />
for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody<br />
pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is<br />
always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is<br />
free. Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and<br />
the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher<br />
phwoar category then elsewhere. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00.<br />
Closed Sun. PJAG<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
AduLt entertAinment<br />
Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11<br />
48, ecarte@<strong>si</strong>ol.net. The most centrally-located adult<br />
entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel<br />
Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who<br />
you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless<br />
cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered<br />
here, when the women are not dancing they are available for<br />
some personal interaction. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PY�<br />
JAEGBXSW<br />
Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18),<br />
tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com, www.<br />
latino-nightclub.com. With unlimited free drinks included in<br />
the price of admis<strong>si</strong>on, Ljubljana’s best nightclub is a great<br />
place to party in the company of girls from around the world.<br />
As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are Dominican<br />
but there are also some Thai and Eastern European girls for<br />
the sake of variety. Every Friday there’s a special show, usually<br />
featuring a couple large snakes or girl-on-girl preformance,<br />
and package deals are also available for groups. Located<br />
underneath the Arena Centre in BTC. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.<br />
Admis<strong>si</strong>on is €20 on weekdays and €30 at the weekends,<br />
which includes unlimited drinks. PALG<br />
Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, info@tangaclub.com, www.<br />
tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the center of<br />
town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so definitely<br />
bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs from the<br />
bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space with<br />
a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full of<br />
drinks and services. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Free admis<strong>si</strong>on.<br />
PALG<br />
February - March 2011<br />
47
48 gAy & LesbiAn<br />
Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian<br />
movement in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and<br />
<strong>si</strong>nce then has maintained an active GLBT community<br />
with many well-organised groups promoting gay rights and<br />
culture. Last year marked the official 25th anniversary<br />
of the movement in Slovenia, and saw some important<br />
events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre in<br />
Metelkova. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana<br />
a gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more<br />
apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright<br />
violence are not unheard of.<br />
Cafés<br />
Café Open D-5, Hrenova 19, tel. (+386) 41 391 371,<br />
info@open.<strong>si</strong>, www.open.<strong>si</strong>/cafe-open/. Some places<br />
try a little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but<br />
this coffee shop isn’t one of them. A gay and lesbian owned<br />
café near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old<br />
town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy,<br />
and there’s usually good mu<strong>si</strong>c drifting out of the speakers<br />
above. Three to four times per week it hosts cultural events<br />
with round tables, including mu<strong>si</strong>c, literature evenings, classes<br />
and open mike. Check their web<strong>si</strong>te for details of upcoming<br />
events. Q Open Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat 09:00-24:00,<br />
Sun 09:00-22:00.<br />
Nightlife<br />
K4 Roza C-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 14 38 02 61,<br />
fax (+386) 14 38 03 01. On some Saturdays and Sundays,<br />
this popular gay-friendly club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in<br />
Slovene) hosts gay and lesbian nights under its alternate<br />
personality, Roza Klub - which is also an independent political<br />
organisation and one of the driving forces behind the Gay and<br />
Lesbian Film Festival and Pride week. See our full review of<br />
K4 under clubs in the Nightlife section. Q Open Tue & Sun<br />
from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00. Mon closed. Closed during<br />
July and August.<br />
Q Cultural Centre F-1, Masarykova 24 (Metelkova),<br />
tel. (+386) 14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@gmail.com,<br />
http://www.kulturnicenterq.org/en/. Officially opened<br />
on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary of the the<br />
gay rights movement in Slovenia, the centre has roots going<br />
all the way back to 1993. It’s a joint project of ŠKUC - one<br />
of Slovenia’s largest arts and cultural organisations, and a<br />
leading proponent of gay rights - and two long-running gay<br />
and lesbian clubs, Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on<br />
the same premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion<br />
of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events<br />
such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances,<br />
exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both clubs also<br />
host parties every Friday (and sometimes on Saturday) night<br />
from around 20:00 till late.<br />
Resources<br />
SiQRD (Slovenian Queer Resources Directory)<br />
, www.ljudmila.org/<strong>si</strong>qrd/. A comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve <strong>si</strong>te for all<br />
things GLBT in Slovenia, with English listings for organisations,<br />
events and venues as well as a concise historical<br />
overview of the gay and lesbian movement (and homophobia)<br />
in Slovenia.<br />
Slovenia for Gay Travelers Tel. (+386) 51 877<br />
245, sloveniaforgaytravelers@yahoo.com, www.<br />
sloveniaforgaytravelers.com. As the name suggests,<br />
these guys specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and<br />
accommodation for vi<strong>si</strong>tors in Slovenia. Their English<br />
language web<strong>si</strong>te is immensely helpful and a good place<br />
to start if you’re interested in planning a trip or just finding<br />
out a bit more about gay culture in the country. A room<br />
in Ljubljana’s only gay owned and operated guest house<br />
(SOMI Rooms) can be booked directly from the web<strong>si</strong>te,<br />
and they have also put together a comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve gay<br />
guide to all of Slovenia - although out<strong>si</strong>de of the capital<br />
the pickings are rather slim.<br />
Saunas & Massage<br />
Gymna<strong>si</strong>vm Sauna K-1, Pohorskega Bataljona 34,<br />
tel. (+386) 15 34 24 85, gymna<strong>si</strong>um@volja.net, www.<br />
klub-libero.<strong>si</strong>. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring<br />
road, Gymna<strong>si</strong>vm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a<br />
converted house in a mixed re<strong>si</strong>dential and industrial area. In<br />
addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV<br />
lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6,<br />
8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place,<br />
and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules<br />
can be found in English on their web<strong>si</strong>te. Q Mon-Thu 15:00-<br />
22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed. During summer<br />
17:00-23:00 Mon-Sat.<br />
Thai Sabai D-1, Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 31 00<br />
75, thaisabai.<strong>si</strong>.info@gmail.com, www.thaisabai.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Gay-friendly Thai massage parlour just north of the city<br />
centre - right next to the hideous Delo building. They provide<br />
a variety of traditional massages at competitive prices, and<br />
all their masseurs are certified by the Thai Ministry of Public<br />
Health. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (€25-55).<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
This golden fountain is the highlight of one of our favourite squares in the city, Ribji Trg<br />
Tourist information<br />
Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre<br />
(Turistični Informacijski Center) D-3, Adamič-<br />
Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, fax<br />
(+386) 13 06 12 04, tic@vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. A small but extremely well equipped<br />
resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English,<br />
information about what‘s on in the city and a range of<br />
information on what to see and do in the region. They<br />
also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and<br />
should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive.<br />
Their web<strong>si</strong>te is one of the best we‘ve seen in Central<br />
Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly,<br />
informative staff too. Q Open October-May 08:00-<br />
19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. Also at the bus<br />
and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00-22:00,<br />
Oct-May 10:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday<br />
Closed) 22 Dec 2009-2 Jan 2010 Monday to Saturday<br />
08:00-21:00.<br />
Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC)<br />
C-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1 306 45 75, fax<br />
(+386) 1 306 45 80, stic@vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit<br />
larger and usually less crowded than the main branch<br />
located a few hundred metres away oppo<strong>si</strong>te Prešeren<br />
Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps,<br />
brochures and general information for the entire country.<br />
Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased,<br />
and the staff will gladly give you a run down of<br />
the various tours and excur<strong>si</strong>ons on offer. Bicycle rentals<br />
are also available for only €5 per day, and are a great way<br />
to see more of the city.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
whAt to see<br />
Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for vi<strong>si</strong>tors<br />
to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to<br />
Ljubljana‘s multitude of museums and galleries are more than<br />
worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination<br />
of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik‘s to the historic<br />
atmosphere of the Old Town to the occa<strong>si</strong>onal blast-to-thepast<br />
burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in<br />
harmony to create the most unique of cities.<br />
Bridges<br />
Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) D-4. Another<br />
Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after<br />
the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars<br />
of various <strong>si</strong>zes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps,<br />
others <strong>si</strong>mply holding stone balls in the air.<br />
Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge) D-3. Connecting<br />
the magnificent colonnaded Tržnica covered market with<br />
Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the oppo<strong>si</strong>te bank, the bridge<br />
had been part architect Jože Plečnik’s original plans in the<br />
1930s, but was never built due to the outbreak of World War<br />
II. Finally opened in July 2010, the bridge remains somewhat<br />
controver<strong>si</strong>al due to it’s modern style (Plečnik had envi<strong>si</strong>oned<br />
something of <strong>si</strong>milar appearence to the adjecent market), as<br />
well as the grotesque sculptures by Slovene artist Jakov Brdar<br />
that were commis<strong>si</strong>oned to decorate the structure. Soon after<br />
the bridge opened, it also became home to the endearing<br />
and decidely uncontrover<strong>si</strong>al tradition of couples locking ‘love<br />
padlocks’ along the length of its steel wires.<br />
Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) D-3. Perhaps Ljubljana’s<br />
most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious<br />
merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a<br />
medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gned by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the<br />
whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
49
50 whAt to see<br />
Top 5 <strong>si</strong>ghts (other than the castle)<br />
Franciscan Church<br />
( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i<br />
Samostan) B - 3 ,<br />
Prešernov Trg 4, tel.<br />
(+386) 1242 93 00.<br />
Built in an instantly recognisable,<br />
mildly swirly Baroque<br />
fashion, Ljubljana’s<br />
mid-16th-century Franciscan<br />
Church dominates<br />
Prešernov Trg like a big<br />
pink birthday cake. Part<br />
of a larger complex with<br />
an additional Franciscan<br />
monastery, if you’re lucky<br />
enough to find the doors<br />
unlocked expect a few<br />
D.Silpa<br />
treats in<strong>si</strong>de including<br />
Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating<br />
from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing<br />
a cross de<strong>si</strong>gned by none other than Jože Plečnik. For<br />
those who don’t appreciate the finer points of eccle<strong>si</strong>astic<br />
architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place<br />
to <strong>si</strong>t and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Mestni Tr g (Town<br />
Square) B-3, The centre<br />
of medieval Ljubljana, the<br />
town’s main square was<br />
damaged in the 1511 earthquake<br />
and subsequently<br />
rebuilt in Baroque style. The<br />
square houses the Town<br />
Hall, City Art Museum, the<br />
decorated 16th century Lichtenberg<br />
house and the<br />
Souvan house with its Empire<br />
façade.<br />
P r e š e r n o v Tr g<br />
(Prešeren Square)<br />
D-3. Formally a meeting<br />
place for several roads<br />
in front of one of the<br />
old entrance gates to<br />
the city, and a public<br />
square <strong>si</strong>nce Ljubljana‘s<br />
original defen<strong>si</strong>ve walls<br />
were torn down in the<br />
middle of the 19th century,<br />
this is one of the<br />
city‘s most important<br />
landmarks. Named after<br />
Slovenia‘s national poet<br />
France Prešeren (German,<br />
Franz Prescheren,<br />
1800-1849), it‘s both a<br />
popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of<br />
the man after whom the square is named) and a <strong>si</strong>te for<br />
concerts and events during the summer. The charming<br />
little public space is ringed by a number of interesting<br />
<strong>si</strong>ghts including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of<br />
the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20thcentury<br />
flamboyance and <strong>si</strong>te of the soon to be reopened<br />
Centromerkur department store.<br />
Tivoli Park A-1/2.<br />
Tivoli is where the people<br />
of Ljubljana who<br />
don’t leave the city<br />
spend the weekend.<br />
Laid out in 1813 as<br />
a place for the general<br />
health and recreation<br />
of the city’s<br />
population, at some<br />
five square kilometres,<br />
Ljubljana’s gargantuan<br />
bucolic lung - literally<br />
Man<strong>si</strong>on-LTB-archive<br />
two streets west of<br />
the city centre - is so<br />
packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>ting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst<br />
rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics<br />
encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world),<br />
pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for<br />
the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best<br />
way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available<br />
for rent from various points throughout the park during the<br />
summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will<br />
bring the bike back.<br />
As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area,<br />
Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural <strong>si</strong>ghts including<br />
the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious<br />
17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Man<strong>si</strong>on), the Museum<br />
of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern<br />
reaches, in an area de<strong>si</strong>gnated as a nature reserve, the<br />
city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to<br />
Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an<br />
early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene<br />
national identity.<br />
Z m a j s k i M o s t<br />
(Dragon Bridge)<br />
Kopitarjeva Ulica.<br />
Since i t opened in<br />
1901, Zmajski Most<br />
has been locked in<br />
a fierce competition<br />
with the castle and<br />
the conspicuously pink<br />
Franciscan Church for<br />
the title of Most Photographed<br />
Sight in<br />
Ljubljana. At any given<br />
moment during daylight<br />
hours (and only<br />
slightly less frequently<br />
at night) there is sure<br />
to be at least a person<br />
or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding<br />
either <strong>si</strong>de of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn<br />
the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no<br />
exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we<br />
snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten<br />
days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste<br />
apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a<br />
certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a<br />
smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury<br />
is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it<br />
does amuse us whenever we walk past.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
52 whAt to see<br />
Buildings<br />
Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) D-3/4, Mestni Trg 1. The<br />
15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages,<br />
and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the<br />
original medieval coat of arms on the building. In<strong>si</strong>de, you can<br />
view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet<br />
hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.<br />
Q Guided tours €2.<br />
National Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Library (Narodna in Univerzitetna<br />
Knjižnica) C-4, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1 200<br />
11 88, www.nuk.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Known to locals by its Slovene<br />
acronym NUK, the library was originally established by Empress<br />
Maria Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plečnik<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gned building in 1941. A<strong>si</strong>de from serving as one of the<br />
country’s central educational and cultural institutions - containing<br />
some 2.6 million volumes -it’s also con<strong>si</strong>dered one of the<br />
prolific architect’s most monumental works, and is a must<br />
see for vi<strong>si</strong>tors to Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat<br />
schizophrenic brick and stone façade, the colonnaded central<br />
staircase and the mas<strong>si</strong>ve main reading room. A planned<br />
expan<strong>si</strong>on on nearby Zoisova Cesta has been in the works for<br />
nearly 20 years, but has been plagued by a host of problems<br />
- most notably caused by the discovery of Roman ruins, which<br />
is a surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly common occurrence in and around the city.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) C-3, Štefanova 1. Believe it<br />
or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one<br />
of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933.<br />
The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after<br />
being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the<br />
best views in the city.<br />
The Plečnik-de<strong>si</strong>gned arcade at the entrance to Žale,<br />
Ljubljana’s main cemetery, photo by B. Jakše & S. Jeršič<br />
Cemeteries<br />
Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) L/M-2, Med<br />
Hmeljniki 2, tel. (+386) 1420 17 00, www.zale.<strong>si</strong>. Built<br />
on the <strong>si</strong>te of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring<br />
(and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably<br />
Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The<br />
grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades<br />
supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the<br />
living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself<br />
are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments<br />
including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound,<br />
reflecting Plečnik’s vi<strong>si</strong>on of equality among religions. The<br />
cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold<br />
and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place<br />
of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find<br />
a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />
Tours<br />
Unique Slovenia Rakovnik 132, Medvode,<br />
tel. (+386) 1 361 62 44/(+386) 31 519 336,<br />
info@unique-slovenia.<strong>si</strong>, www.unique-slovenia.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. As one of the world‘s most geographically diverse<br />
countries, Slovenia offers almost limitless<br />
pos<strong>si</strong>bilities for would-be vi<strong>si</strong>tors - and no one is<br />
better at arranging custom tours than the team at<br />
Unique Slovenia. From the standard trips to Bled and<br />
Ljubljana to wine tours and fly fishing to boat trips<br />
and helicopter rides, they can arrange pretty much<br />
anything you can think of and then some. Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />
and VIP services are also one of their specialities,<br />
with everything including limou<strong>si</strong>nes and private jets<br />
available.<br />
Turag4all Tel. (+386) 30 641 440, info@turag4all.<br />
eu, www.turag4all.eu. The first travel agency in Slovenia<br />
that is specialised in acces<strong>si</strong>ble tourism for people<br />
with special needs, Turag4All (or the Tourist Agency for<br />
All) was organised by the Slovenian Association for Mental<br />
Health in cooperation with both the National Tourist<br />
Association and the Institute for Counselling, Promotion<br />
and Development of Acces<strong>si</strong>ble Tourism. Its aim is to<br />
contribute to the development of tourism for people<br />
with special needs by combining supply and demand<br />
for disabled-friendly tourists and creating a network of<br />
disabled-friendly tourist suppliers. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Churches<br />
As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts<br />
a number of famous churches dating far back to<br />
the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian<br />
architecture. A<strong>si</strong>de from during mass, most of the main<br />
churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.<br />
Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) D-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel.<br />
(+386) 1231 06 84. With its clas<strong>si</strong>c twin towers and trademark<br />
<strong>si</strong>ngle, weather-worn green dome, the city‘s cathedral,<br />
more properly known as St Nicholas‘ Church, encapsulates<br />
everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too<br />
exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer<br />
details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the <strong>si</strong>te<br />
of a much earlier church, the cathedral‘s main structure and<br />
appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century.<br />
In<strong>si</strong>de the Baroque masterpiece‘s pink shell is a cavalcade<br />
of clas<strong>si</strong>c creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily<br />
detailed frescoes and posses<strong>si</strong>ng that calming feeling that<br />
only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the<br />
ornate choir stalls and Robba‘s maginficent angels on the<br />
main altar. Don‘t forget to check out the astonishing pair of<br />
bronze doors on the western and southern <strong>si</strong>des. Dating<br />
from 1996 and commis<strong>si</strong>oned to celebrate John Paul II‘s<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>t to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of<br />
Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting <strong>si</strong>x cardinals<br />
in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history<br />
of the diocese of the city.<br />
Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) B-2,<br />
Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built along<strong>si</strong>de the<br />
southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the<br />
city‘s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church<br />
complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth<br />
vi<strong>si</strong>ting during services, daily at 10:00.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
54 whAt to see<br />
Enjoy spectacular views of the city while riding the funicular<br />
railway up to the castle, photo courtesy of Festival Ljubljana.<br />
Monuments<br />
France Prešeren D-3. Slovenia‘s national poet France<br />
Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his<br />
honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an<br />
interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal<br />
point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the<br />
large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and<br />
sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a<br />
small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts<br />
from his writing around the base.<br />
Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak) D-3, Mestni Trg.<br />
One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751<br />
fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor<br />
Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The<br />
Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba‘s<br />
Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it<br />
essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for<br />
Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the<br />
artist‘s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly<br />
representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.<br />
Museums & Galleries<br />
City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) C-4, Gosposka<br />
15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mm-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
mm-lj.<strong>si</strong>. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians<br />
who know how to show people a good time, showca<strong>si</strong>ng<br />
Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.<br />
Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this<br />
is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history.<br />
Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate<br />
costumes, old photographs and much more be<strong>si</strong>des. Check<br />
out the fabulous little web<strong>si</strong>te for upcoming exhibitions.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €4/2,50.<br />
English-language guided tours Sun at 13:00.<br />
Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše<br />
Zgodovine) B-1, Celovška 23, tel. (+386) 13 00 96<br />
10, uprava@muzej-nz.<strong>si</strong>, www.muzej-nz.<strong>si</strong>. If you needed<br />
a reason to vi<strong>si</strong>t Tivoli Park, it‘s here. This fascinating museum<br />
in<strong>si</strong>de a wonderful 18th-century man<strong>si</strong>on presents the<br />
history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI<br />
until independence in 1991. U<strong>si</strong>ng a combination of wellpresented<br />
exhibits including old photographs, clothing and<br />
household items the museum charts the often wobbly path<br />
of the nation through and between the two world wars and<br />
the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years.<br />
The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous<br />
combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist<br />
work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991.<br />
Q Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:00-20:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €7/3.50.<br />
International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni<br />
Grafični Likovni Center) A-2, Pod Turnom 3, tel.<br />
(+386) 1241 38 00, lili.sturm@mglc-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.mglc-lj.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. Located in<strong>si</strong>de the gorgeous 17th-century Tivoli Man<strong>si</strong>on,<br />
this must-see attraction for anyone with even a pas<strong>si</strong>ng interesting<br />
in the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints<br />
and over 4000 artist‘s books and other printed ephemera,<br />
mostly from the second half of the 20th century onwards and<br />
including the work of many of the great masters of European<br />
graphic arts. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open<br />
Monday to Friday 09:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun & holidays.<br />
Admis<strong>si</strong>on €3.40/1.70. During the Biennial €6/3.<br />
Modern Gallery (Moderna Galerija) B-3, Tomšičeva<br />
14, tel. (+386) 12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.mg-lj.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar‘s<br />
Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public.<br />
Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city‘s<br />
excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of<br />
Slovenian and international 20th-century art. Q Open Tues-<br />
Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €5 for<br />
adults, €2.50 for students/pen<strong>si</strong>oners. No admis<strong>si</strong>on fee first<br />
Sunday of every month.<br />
National Galler y<br />
(Narodna Galerija)<br />
B/C-2, Prešernova 24,<br />
tel. (+386) 1241 54 18,<br />
info@ng-slo.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
ng-slo.<strong>si</strong>. In<strong>si</strong>de Czech architect<br />
František Edmund<br />
Škabrout‘s fabulous late<br />
19th-century neo-Renaissance<br />
masterpiece<br />
LTB-archive with an additional modern<br />
wing thrown on for good<br />
measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in<br />
Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the<br />
20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as<br />
Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and<br />
Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition<br />
in the building focuses on European painting, and includes<br />
some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian<br />
painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th<br />
century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has<br />
several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €7/3.50.<br />
National Museum (Narodni Muzej) B-3, Prešernova<br />
20, tel. (+386) 12 41 44 00, info@nms.<strong>si</strong>, www.narmuzlj.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Found lurking in<strong>si</strong>de another of the city‘s fine, late<br />
19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine<br />
painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
INFORMACIJE<br />
Zavod za kulturo in turizem Kostel<br />
Fara 30<br />
1336 Kostel<br />
01/894 80 70, info@kostel.<strong>si</strong><br />
Delovni čas:<br />
Vsak dan od 9.00 do 15.00 ali<br />
po predhodnem dogovoru.<br />
Turistična kmetija LUKČEVA DOMAČIJA<br />
Vrh pri Fari 1<br />
1336 Kostel<br />
T: 031 285 723<br />
bine.likar@amis.net<br />
Občina Kostel<br />
KOSTEL, Dežela vode<br />
Doživite zdravilno pokrajino za telo, dušo in duha<br />
v različnih programih Svet Kolpe.<br />
Kmetija z nastanitvijo »PRI PAPEŽEVIH«<br />
Banja loka 19,<br />
1336 Kostel,<br />
T: 041 792 816<br />
alojzij.selan@kmetija-papez.com<br />
Izletniška kmetija PADOVAC<br />
Selo pri Kostelu 3<br />
1336 Kostel<br />
T: 031 33 86 45<br />
kmetija.padovac@gmail.com
56 whAt to see<br />
is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841.<br />
Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated<br />
to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language along<strong>si</strong>de the<br />
usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a<br />
large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework<br />
dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding<br />
regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on<br />
€3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.<br />
Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej)<br />
B-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 12 41 09 40, uprava@<br />
pms-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www2.pms-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Attached to Ljubljana‘s National<br />
Museum, the Natural History Museum isn‘t the best in the<br />
world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities<br />
to beat the rainy blues away or to <strong>si</strong>mply keep the children<br />
amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of<br />
shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones,<br />
the human fish is perhaps the museum‘s strangest display.<br />
Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, the little<br />
proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found exclu<strong>si</strong>vely in a<br />
relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia<br />
and Herzegovina. The gift shop features a handful of fun<br />
things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur<br />
kits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on<br />
€3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.<br />
Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski<br />
Muzej) F-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00,<br />
etnomuz@etno-muzej.<strong>si</strong>, www.etno-muzej.<strong>si</strong>. The<br />
Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum “about<br />
people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between<br />
the past and the present, between our own and other cultures,<br />
between nature and civilisation. A central museum of<br />
ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable<br />
with dedicated public services. The museum is located in<br />
a new urban cultural centre of Ljubljana known as part of<br />
former military barracks of the Metelkova area, which have<br />
undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form<br />
the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent<br />
exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other<br />
events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM presents<br />
and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other<br />
cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find<br />
the entrance in the large square at the back of the building.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €4.50/2.50<br />
(adults/students).<br />
Parks & Gardens<br />
Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) L-4, Ižanska 15,<br />
tel. (+386) 14 27 12 80, botanicni.vrt@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.<br />
botanicni-vrt.<strong>si</strong>. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part<br />
of the biology department of Ljubljana Univer<strong>si</strong>ty and has 2<br />
hectares of protected landscape, with over 4500 species<br />
of native and foreign plants. Guided tours of groups over 15<br />
people are pos<strong>si</strong>ble for a small fee and when booked 10<br />
days in advance. Q Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00.<br />
Admis<strong>si</strong>on free.<br />
Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) I-3, Večna Pot 70, tel.<br />
(+386) 12 44 21 88, info@zoo.<strong>si</strong>, www.zoo.<strong>si</strong>. A large<br />
complex with a good variety of native and foreign animals,<br />
the zoo makes for an excellent day out with the kids. A<br />
pleasant 30 minute walk through leafy re<strong>si</strong>dential neighbourhoods<br />
from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23.<br />
Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays<br />
from 21:00-23:00. Q Open daily 09:00-17:00 in October,<br />
09:00-16:00 in November. Admis<strong>si</strong>on: €6/4.50/3.55/1<br />
for adults/school-children/pre-schoolers/pets, free for<br />
children under 2.<br />
Ljubljana Castle<br />
Ljubljana Castle<br />
(Ljubljanski Grad)<br />
D-4, Grajska Planota<br />
1, tel. (+386)<br />
12 32 99 94, info@<br />
ljubljanafestival.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.ljubljanafestival.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Perched on top<br />
of Castle Hill (Grajska<br />
Planota) and dominating<br />
the city skyline to<br />
the south, Ljubljana’s<br />
magnificent castle<br />
stands on the <strong>si</strong>te of<br />
several former defen<strong>si</strong>ve<br />
buildings in a hilly<br />
area of land stretching<br />
away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble<br />
of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century<br />
reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511,<br />
with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel<br />
Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a<br />
royal re<strong>si</strong>dence and a military barracks over the centuries.<br />
The current main points of interest for the vi<strong>si</strong>tor are<br />
both located in<strong>si</strong>de the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp),<br />
built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by<br />
the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum<br />
screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of<br />
special glasses and a headset for an English translation,<br />
showing an interesting and informative history of the<br />
castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes<br />
you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron<br />
steps, each individually decorated with an image of the<br />
tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to<br />
a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with<br />
wonderful views of the city.<br />
Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of<br />
stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the<br />
courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela<br />
sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in the Baroque<br />
style, the chapel is interesting for its 15th-century wall<br />
paintings and not a lot more. The castle also has a small<br />
art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, souvenir<br />
shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet Museum. It’s<br />
also a popular place for local weddings, and during the<br />
summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular<br />
outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up<br />
from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet<br />
Theatre. Q Winter Hours: (through 30.4)”<br />
Castle & Café 10:00-21:00 daily<br />
Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum 10:00-18:00 daily<br />
Funicular Railway 10:00-21:00 daily<br />
Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum €3.50 for adults<br />
€2.00 for secondary students, univer<strong>si</strong>ty students,<br />
seniors and groups (over 15 people)<br />
Castle tours €5.00 for adults, €3.50 for secondary<br />
students, univer<strong>si</strong>ty students and seniors.<br />
slovenia.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
With so many things to chose from but limited suitcase<br />
space into which to cram stuff, deciding on what<br />
souvenirs to buy while in Ljubljana can be a daunting<br />
task. Although it’s far from definitive, we’ve made things<br />
ea<strong>si</strong>er by narrowing it down to a more manageable list<br />
of five popular items.<br />
Schnapps<br />
It may say more about us<br />
than anything else, but<br />
Slovenian schnapps is our<br />
gift of choice when vi<strong>si</strong>ting<br />
friends and family abroad.<br />
Slovenes swear by the stuff,<br />
not only as a digestif but<br />
also as a cure all for most<br />
common ailments and pickme-up<br />
on those cold dark<br />
winter mornings. The more<br />
popular varieties include<br />
b orovnica (blueberr y),<br />
medica (honey) and viljamovka (pear) - the latter often<br />
coming with an entire pear mysteriously in<strong>si</strong>de the bottle. If<br />
you’re thinking of taking some home, keep in mind the 100ml<br />
rule if you are flying at any point on your return journey, which<br />
means you can either opt for the tiny ornamental bottles or<br />
take your chances packing the larger ones in you checked<br />
baggage.<br />
Dragons<br />
Ljubljana’s famous dragon<br />
actually comes with quite<br />
a pedigree, making its first<br />
historical appearance in<br />
the legend of Jason and the<br />
Golden Fleece. Unfortunately<br />
for the dragon it would also<br />
be its last, as it was slain<br />
by the sticky-fingered Greek<br />
and his crew of Argonauts<br />
on their way to the Adriatic.<br />
However, much like Marilyn<br />
Monroe or 2Pac in the 20th<br />
century, an untimely death<br />
turned out to be a great career move for the mythical<br />
beast, as he was eventually adopted as the symbol of<br />
Ljubljana and his image can now be found on all manner<br />
of trinkets, t-shirts and other souvenirs.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
top 5 souvenirs<br />
Salt<br />
When discus<strong>si</strong>ng which souvenirs are most typical<br />
Slovenia, one oft-mentioned item in particular always<br />
seems to raise eyebrows: salt. More specifically, salt<br />
from the centuries old Sečovlje salt pans on the coast<br />
south of Portorož. While it’s technically the same stuff<br />
you find on every dinner table in the world, the location<br />
and traditional production methods give it a recognisably<br />
unique flavour. It’s actually quite well-known among<br />
gourmands worldwide, and as far away as Japan some<br />
high-end sushi restaurants use it exclu<strong>si</strong>vely. If you’re not<br />
making the trip to the coast, you can vi<strong>si</strong>t the Piranske<br />
Soline shop on Mestni Trg.<br />
Yugostalgia<br />
With each pas<strong>si</strong>ng year<br />
Slovenia’s identity as a<br />
former Yugoslav republic<br />
seems to become a little less<br />
pronounced, however, in the<br />
minds of many tourists the<br />
country’s 20th century heritage<br />
is still somewhere near the<br />
forefront - especially when it<br />
comes time to pick up some<br />
souvenirs. The best place to<br />
find old Yugoslav coins, banknotes, stamps and medals<br />
from the not so distant past is the flea market that’s<br />
held every Sunday along the Ljubljanica. Straying from<br />
politics into the realm of unrepentant kitsch, another of<br />
our favourites are old Yugo pop 45s - we’d be lying if we<br />
said we listen to the stuff, but some of the covers are<br />
great. And of course there’s always the ubiquitous Tito<br />
t-shirts that can usually be found at stalls in the train<br />
station underpass or near Triple Bridge.<br />
Lace<br />
Located some 50km west of Ljubljana, the town of Idrija is<br />
largely known for two things: mercury and lace. Although<br />
both undoubtedly make fine gifts for friends and family<br />
back home, the lace industry has apparently done a much<br />
better job promoting itself and is widely recognised as<br />
producing some of the highest quality lace in the world. A<br />
surpri<strong>si</strong>ng variety of lace goods - from <strong>si</strong>mple cloths and<br />
handkerchiefs to gloves, necklaces and even earrings -<br />
can be found at Galerija Idrijska Čipka on Mestni Trg.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
57
58 shopping<br />
One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you<br />
can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s<br />
streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street<br />
stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number<br />
of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river,<br />
making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping<br />
cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the city<br />
centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill,<br />
Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the oppo<strong>si</strong>te<br />
bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets<br />
between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you like want a<br />
mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple<br />
of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor.<br />
Be<strong>si</strong>des an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a<br />
number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a<br />
water park and entertainment city.<br />
Art & Antiques<br />
Gudar D-4, Stari Trg 10, tel. (+386) 31 392 367, www.<br />
darjadaxi.<strong>si</strong>. This Old Town gallery is packed with unique gifts<br />
and souvenirs handcrafted by Slovene de<strong>si</strong>gners and artists<br />
from premium local materials. Ceramics, jewellery, watercolours,<br />
Illustrations, paintings, mosaics and leather goods are<br />
just some of the products you’ll find on display. The friendly<br />
staff is more than happy to give further details on all the items<br />
in stock, and the shop also hosts occa<strong>si</strong>onal events. Q Open<br />
Mon-Tues 12:00-19:00, Wed-Fri 10:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00<br />
and Sat 10:00-15:00.<br />
Books<br />
Mladinska Knjiga C-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1241<br />
36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.<strong>si</strong>, www.mladinska.com.<br />
The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has<br />
by far the largest selection of English language books in the<br />
country including a fairly impres<strong>si</strong>ve travel section. There’s<br />
usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d<br />
like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky.<br />
They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other<br />
street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tax free shopping<br />
If you’re a re<strong>si</strong>dent of a non-EU<br />
member state, you’re eligible to<br />
take advantage of tax free shopping<br />
while vi<strong>si</strong>ting Slovenia. If you spend<br />
over €50 at any shop displaying the<br />
Global Refund ‘Tax Free’ logo, they<br />
can issue you with a special Refund<br />
Cheque when you pay. At shops that<br />
don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to<br />
ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get<br />
the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When you<br />
leave the EU just show the item you purchased and relevant<br />
paperwork to a customs official, who will give you the necessary<br />
stamps. You can then receive cash or credit at any<br />
of the many Global Refund Offices around the world - at<br />
Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at the news agents in<br />
the check-in area. However, before making any extravagant<br />
purchases assuming you’ll receive a 20% discount, make<br />
sure to double-check your departure info, especially if you<br />
have a layover in another EU country on your way home.<br />
Not all customs offices are open 24 hours, so depending<br />
on the time and length of your layover, it may be next to<br />
impos<strong>si</strong>ble to get the official stamps you need.<br />
Cosmetics<br />
L’Occitane D-4, Mestni Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1 426 03 72,<br />
www.loccitane.<strong>si</strong>. Named for an ancient province that once<br />
covered a wide swath of Mediterranean Europe, this wellknown<br />
international retailer of body, face and home products<br />
currently has ten stores in Slovenia, three of which are located<br />
in Ljubljana. The environmentally-conscious company aims to<br />
preserve the natural traditions of the Mediterranean region<br />
- especially those of Provence, France where it was founded<br />
some thirty years ago - and each product in its exten<strong>si</strong>ve<br />
range comes with a unique true story. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Department Stores<br />
Maxi Market C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14 76<br />
68 74, info@maxi.<strong>si</strong>, www.maxi.<strong>si</strong>. The quintessential<br />
Yugoslavian shopping centre experience, dating from 1971<br />
and brought slightly up to date but still retaining most of its<br />
original exterior charm. Maxi Market is perhaps the best<br />
one-stop-shop experience in the city centre. As well as a<br />
fairly good selection of clothes shops, it also has a number<br />
of other shopping surprises as well as a handful of interesting<br />
bars and cafés. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Midas C-2/3, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00,<br />
info@midas.<strong>si</strong>, www.midas.<strong>si</strong>. When Midas opened in<br />
October 2007 Ljubljana let out a <strong>si</strong>gh of relief. Finally the<br />
top international brands were available in Slovenia. Now you<br />
can find the latest collections from houses such as Giorgio<br />
Armani, Blumarine and Givenchy to the more fashion collections<br />
of Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ by Alexander McQueen<br />
and See by Chloe. In Midas you can fully immerse yourself in<br />
your favorite brand from underwear, clothes, shoes, bags, accessories,<br />
sunglasses and perfumes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Nama C-3, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@<br />
nama.<strong>si</strong>, www.nama.<strong>si</strong>. Just southwest of the Slon hotel,<br />
this well established department store provides several floors<br />
of clothing for men and women, plus household items and<br />
somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Fashion<br />
Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international<br />
brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenianmade<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gner clothing, so you shouldn’t have any trouble<br />
finding something surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly original.<br />
69 Slam D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 7, tel. (+386) 31 531<br />
900, www.69slam.<strong>si</strong>/. The Ljubljana outlet of this trendy<br />
international underwear and swimwear brand is somewhat<br />
hidden away on a quieter stretch of the river<strong>si</strong>de, which is a bit<br />
ironic given that the de<strong>si</strong>gns in<strong>si</strong>de are about as loud as you’re<br />
likely to find anywhere. If it’s any indicator of the store’s popularity<br />
amongst the locals, its Facebook page has almost 2,000<br />
fans. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Boss D-3, Miklošičeva 4, tel. (+386_ 51 658 552, Boss.<br />
ljubljana@sportina.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Emporium M-2, Letališka 3 (BTC), tel. (+386) 15 84<br />
48 00, info@emporium.<strong>si</strong>, www.emporium.<strong>si</strong>. This huge<br />
fashion house in the southwest corner of BTC has aisle after<br />
aisle of name-brand de<strong>si</strong>gner clothes for men, women and<br />
children at discount prices. With well over 100 different luxury<br />
brands to peruse they’ve been thoughtful enough to also include<br />
a café to rest weary legs and reload on caffeine. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Galerija Emporium D-3, Prešernov Trg 5a, tel.<br />
(+386) 1 30 84 210, info@galerijaemporium.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
galerijaemporium.com. After nearly a year of renovations,<br />
this luxury department store opened in the beautiful Art<br />
Nouveau Urbanc Building in September 2010. Located right<br />
on Prešeren Square, various top name men’s and women’s<br />
brands can be found across its five floors, and even if you’re<br />
not in need of any clothing or accessories, the building itself<br />
is worth a look. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
H & M C-3, Čopova 2, tel. (+386) 12 41 04 20. Four floors<br />
of affordable Swedish-de<strong>si</strong>gned fashion on Ljubljana’s main pedestrian<br />
street. They also have another large store in City Park.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hibrid C-2/3, Štefanova 3, tel. (+386) 41 698 777, info@<br />
hibrid.<strong>si</strong>, www.hibrid.<strong>si</strong>. The only place is Slovenia to find the<br />
newest fashion trends from some of the world’s hottest de<strong>si</strong>gners,<br />
Hibrid is a one of a kind boutique located on the ground floor<br />
of Ljubljana’s famous Nebotičnik Building. The owner Romain,<br />
is a French expat and certified fashion aficienado who personally<br />
selects the top names from Paris’ bi-annual Fashion Week,<br />
including Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Croatianborn<br />
Damir Doma. While the selection is technically men’s only,<br />
women are also frequent patrons, and as the name suggests<br />
there’s a full range of items from bu<strong>si</strong>ness suits to casual wear<br />
as well as shoes, sunglasses and other accessories. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Kipling C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51 10 10,<br />
bags.<strong>si</strong>. Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags,<br />
purses) for ladies who lunch. Be<strong>si</strong>des the headline leather<br />
there are also big print bags, which, as its summer in<br />
Slovenia, feature something of a nautical theme. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
La Perla Studio D-2, Miklošičeva 7a, tel. (+386) 1<br />
434 00 60, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Italian fashion<br />
house La Perla recently premiered the elegant ‘New Venus’<br />
collection of high-end lingerie that took the feminine essence<br />
as its theme. In collaboration with world-renowned French<br />
de<strong>si</strong>gner Jean Paul Gaultier, La Perla has produced a collection<br />
of uniquely sophisticated lingerie dedicated to accentuating<br />
the female form in the most stylish way pos<strong>si</strong>ble. A range of<br />
styles and colours makes La Perla lingerie an ideal gift for<br />
that special (and pampered!) lady in your life. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mandarina Duck C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12<br />
51 10 10, bags.<strong>si</strong>. Exqui<strong>si</strong>te handbags and leather goods<br />
for the glitterati. Look out for the trademark wooden ducks<br />
in the window: alas they are not for sale. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Marella C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 1 426 92 44,<br />
info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Marella has a fun, youthful<br />
feel that makes it a comparatively relaxed environment in<br />
which to outfit yourself with the latest high-end clothing. The<br />
brand was conceived in 1973 to offer fashionable, top quality<br />
clothing at affordable prices. This tradition has continued, and<br />
Marella’s beautifully de<strong>si</strong>gned fur, leather and <strong>si</strong>lk-infused<br />
collection is within the financial reach of the discerning,<br />
profes<strong>si</strong>onal ‘everywoman’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat<br />
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
shopping<br />
February - March 2011<br />
59
60 shopping<br />
www.cukrcek.<strong>si</strong><br />
A rich selection of homemade chocolates,<br />
pralines and chocholate gifts.<br />
Cukrček Chocolate Shop, Pasaža Nebotičnika, Mestni trg 11<br />
Marina Rinaldi D-2, Dalmatinova 11b, tel. (+386) 14<br />
33 04 85, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. The theme of<br />
Marina Rinaldi’s ever-elegant collection this season is the<br />
unknown. Luxurious materials such as <strong>si</strong>lk-cashmere, in<br />
striking colours such as ivory white, are blended to produce<br />
a line of clothing that effortlessly blends light and shadow;<br />
mainstream and alternative; yin and yang. It is ideal for the<br />
tall or plus-<strong>si</strong>ze modern woman with a sophisticated yet<br />
casual sense of style who wishes to display her femininity in<br />
a fashionable but edgy and mysterious way. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Max Mara D-3, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 426 58 80,<br />
info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. When entering Max Mara,<br />
words like ‘elegant’, ‘sophisticated’ and ‘classy’ inevitably<br />
spring to mind. The shop po<strong>si</strong>tively glows with these qualities,<br />
offering a diverse range of nicely presented, luxurious ladies’<br />
attire. Staff are always nearby to as<strong>si</strong>st if needed but keep<br />
a polite distance, allowing you to browse without feeling any<br />
pressure. A highlight is the subtle yet striking Sportmax range,<br />
which presents high fashion at its highest while retaining an<br />
innovative individualism. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Orsay C-3, Čopova 9, tel. (+386) 51 622 641, Orsay.<br />
copova@sportina.<strong>si</strong>, www.sportina.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Studio Ho<strong>si</strong>ery D-2, Miklošičeva 10, tel.(+386) 1 430<br />
25 77, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Studio Ho<strong>si</strong>ery’s<br />
range of shirts, stockings, socks and tights and other Max Mara<br />
bodywear mean that between it and neighbouring stores like<br />
Tru Trussardi and La Perla, you can outfit yourself in the most<br />
trendsetting attire from the ground up, as it were. A perfect<br />
place to begin, or conclude, your upmarket shopping spree.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.-<br />
Tally Weijl C-3, Čopova 38, tel. +386 51 658 576,<br />
TW.copova@sportina.<strong>si</strong>, ww.sportina.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tru Trussardi D-3, Miklošičeva 7, tel. (+386) 59 074<br />
299, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Like its nearby <strong>si</strong>ster<br />
stores, Max Mara and La Perla, Tru Trussardi offers a range of<br />
women’s clothing at the cutting-edge of fashion, empha<strong>si</strong><strong>si</strong>ng<br />
sophistication and sensuality but with a casual practicality<br />
that makes its accoutrements ideal for any occa<strong>si</strong>on. Tru<br />
Trussardi also caters to the style-conscious man, and its male<br />
collection is sophisticated and modern but with an alternative<br />
tinge that will have you looking as sharp and suave as they<br />
come yet with a subtle edge. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat<br />
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Western Store E-3, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 40 236<br />
763. Located amongst the various boutiques, bars and<br />
eateries on Ljubljana’s trendy Trubarjeva pedestrian street is<br />
the city’s first and, to our knowledge, only shop speciali<strong>si</strong>ng<br />
in boots and fashion from the Old West. With more leather<br />
packed into the place than you’re likely to find at even the<br />
most respectable of dude ranches, this should be the first<br />
stop for cowboys, bikers or anyone looking to add something<br />
unique to their wardrobe. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
XYZ M-2, Šmartinska 152g (BTC, Citypark), tel.<br />
(+386) 1 548 3619, xyz-citypark@sportina.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
sportina-group.com. One of the region’s largest fashion<br />
retailers, the Sportina Group, opened its newest store in<br />
Citypark earlier this year. The XYZ concept stores aim to offer<br />
premium brands - over 40 in all, including such names as<br />
Armani, Burberry, Zenega, D&G, Galliano, Juicy Couture - in<br />
a sophisticated de<strong>si</strong>gn-oriented environment. Extra-large<br />
fitting rooms, lounge areas and specially selected mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
are standard features, and the stores frequently play host<br />
to special events. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Zooo C-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. (+386) 59 044 254,<br />
zooo@eurosport-trade.<strong>si</strong>, www.zooo.<strong>si</strong>. A 500 square<br />
metre de<strong>si</strong>gner multibrand store located right in the centre<br />
of town, Zooo features the latest urban fashions for men<br />
and women. Clothing, footwear and fashion accessories<br />
from brands such as Jacob Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Scotch<br />
& Soda, Tricker’s and Barba Napoli are all on display in the<br />
retro futuristic space.<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
Čokoladnica Cukrček D-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel.<br />
(+386) 15 19 92 86, info@benedict.<strong>si</strong>, www.cukrcek.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. A charming, family-run bu<strong>si</strong>ness with three shops in the<br />
city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and<br />
making children happily <strong>si</strong>ck for a decade and a half. Among<br />
the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special<br />
Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in<br />
chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Kraševka D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 12 32<br />
14 45, info@krasevka.<strong>si</strong>, www.krasevka.<strong>si</strong>. ‘Food glorious<br />
food’ goes the song and you may well find yourself humming<br />
it as you scan the shelves of this tasty shop. A family-run<br />
bu<strong>si</strong>ness, Kraševka provides an outlet for local produce<br />
that until recently was only sold directly from the farmer to<br />
the pas<strong>si</strong>ng food-a-phile. It started off specializing in produce<br />
from the sea but has now expanded to include all manner<br />
of Slovenian delicacies from pumpkin-seed oil to Tiran wines<br />
to jams, cheeses, vinegars and dried meats. Catering to the<br />
inner gourmet lurking in most of us, Kraševka well lives up<br />
to its mis<strong>si</strong>on statement of selling ‘home-made foods that<br />
are produced with love’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
NEW<br />
La Chocolate D-4, Mestni Trg 18, tel. (+386) 1 256<br />
50 61/(+386) 41 237 447, info@lachocolate.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
lachocolate.<strong>si</strong>. Colourful packages of high quality pralines<br />
and truffles are the standouts at this relatively new sweets<br />
shop located on picturesque Mestni Trg. Ever-popular<br />
amongst Slovenes, you can’t really go wrong buying chocolate<br />
for that special someone - especially if it’s a she. Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />
clients can also take advantage of custom-de<strong>si</strong>gned gifts<br />
for employees or clients, and during the warmer months<br />
wine and chocolate tasting events make for a nice night out.<br />
Look for the orange squirrel logo. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Made in Slovenia C-3, Slovenska 23, tel. (+386)<br />
51 228 249, info@madeinslovenia.net, www.madeinslovenia.net/.<br />
These guys have been selling exclu<strong>si</strong>vely<br />
Slovenian produced goods on the web for over three years<br />
now, but have only recently decided to get into the bricks and<br />
mortar trade. Beyond the usual gifts and souvenirs they also<br />
carry original art work, hand-made jewellery, contemporary<br />
mu<strong>si</strong>c and of course hemp rolling papers. Their small shop<br />
in the arcade oppo<strong>si</strong>te Kongresni Trg was still undergoing<br />
some finishing touches when we vi<strong>si</strong>ted in late July, but we<br />
liked what we saw.<br />
Trgovina Ika D-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 232<br />
17 43, info@trgovina-ika.<strong>si</strong>, www.trgovina-ika.<strong>si</strong>. /RoIka<br />
puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion de<strong>si</strong>gners<br />
in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection<br />
of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion.<br />
You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products<br />
represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re<br />
looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the<br />
right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 14:00.<br />
Mu<strong>si</strong>c Shops<br />
Koromandija D-4, Galluosovo Nabrežje 29, tel. (+386)<br />
59 024 126, koromandija@t-2.net, koromandija.<strong>si</strong>. A<br />
small and somewhat eccentric mu<strong>si</strong>c store located in the Old<br />
Town along the Ljubljanica, Koromandija specialises in hard to<br />
find world, ethnic, folk and alternative tunes. Or, in their own<br />
words: “Mu<strong>si</strong>c that cannot be found on the Internet, mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
that invigorates; mu<strong>si</strong>c, which is a feast for the eyes, mu<strong>si</strong>c for<br />
all tastes and all occa<strong>si</strong>ons, mu<strong>si</strong>c outspoken, mu<strong>si</strong>c, mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
that surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly as of yet has not been heard - mu<strong>si</strong>c from<br />
all corners and places of the world!”<br />
Spin Vinyl Rock’n’Roll D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 13, tel.<br />
(+386) 1251 10 18, spinvinyl33@ma<strong>si</strong>com.net, www.<br />
spinvinyl.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s cult old town second-hand record<br />
shop not only stocks a magnificent collection of 12-inch<br />
oddities including copies of what’s generally con<strong>si</strong>dered to<br />
be the first punk album released behind the Iron Curtain (from<br />
the legendary Slovenian outfit, Pankrti) but is also one of the<br />
best places to stock up on information about what’s happening<br />
in and around the alternative mu<strong>si</strong>c scene in the city.<br />
QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00, Sun 10:30 -13:00.<br />
Vom Second Hand C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 12 52<br />
79 21, vom@vom.<strong>si</strong>, www.vom.<strong>si</strong>. A tiny shop found down<br />
an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection<br />
of mostly but not exclu<strong>si</strong>vely second-hand vinyl and CDs. Mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />
on offer includes clas<strong>si</strong>c rock and some gems from some<br />
of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Photography<br />
Foto Grad D-1/2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 14 39<br />
29 00, info@fotograd.com, www.fotograd.com. A small<br />
but decent selection of accessories plus developing and<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
shopping<br />
passport photographs on request. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Foto Maxi C-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1252<br />
74 50, fotomaxi@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.fotomaxi.com. If you<br />
can’t wait to get home to start going through your latest<br />
holiday photos, this photo shop in<strong>si</strong>de the Maxi shopping<br />
center, offers fast and efficient services for digital and<br />
manual snappers. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Foto Tivoli C-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 14 22 36 30,<br />
info@foto-tivoli.<strong>si</strong>, www.foto-tivoli.<strong>si</strong>. One of the better<br />
photography shops in the city centre, selling not only the usual<br />
supply of cameras and accessories but also a wide range of<br />
photographic paper and chemicals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Sex shops<br />
Red Shop D-5, Gornji Trg 24, tel. (+386) 14 25 32<br />
29/(+386) 41 62 46 08, redshopnada@gmail.com,<br />
www.redshop.<strong>si</strong>/. Concentrating mainly on sex toys of<br />
all sorts, this store offers a great variety of accessories<br />
that will help you enrich your sex life. You can vi<strong>si</strong>t the<br />
establishment in the old part of town or shop online.<br />
Just don’t expect much help from the clerk, in English or<br />
otherwise. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Venera Shop E-3, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 1432 41<br />
83, www.venera-shop.<strong>si</strong>. Ever wondered about going a<br />
little crazier in bed? Well, what are you waiting for? In this<br />
sex shop you’ll find all the little toys your heart might de<strong>si</strong>re.<br />
A large selection of videos, lubricants and all types of things<br />
that run on batteries. Check it out. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
61
62 shopping<br />
Shopping centres<br />
Shopping centres are not hard to find in Ljubljana, but<br />
most of the big department stores and supermarkets are<br />
just out of town and are best found by bus or taxi.<br />
BTC City M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 85<br />
22 22, info@btc.<strong>si</strong>, en.btc-city.com/. The biggest thing<br />
of its kind in the country, the po<strong>si</strong>tively humungous BTC<br />
features not only some 450 shops selling everything you<br />
could pos<strong>si</strong>bly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore,<br />
bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing,<br />
a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous<br />
water park, conference facilities and its very own bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />
district hou<strong>si</strong>ng some of the best known local and international<br />
companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500<br />
vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre<br />
of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
De<strong>si</strong>gn<br />
Dom De<strong>si</strong>gn C-2, Štefanova 6, tel. (+386) 1 244<br />
34 60, info@domde<strong>si</strong>gn.<strong>si</strong>, www.domde<strong>si</strong>gn.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Open for well over a decade, Dom De<strong>si</strong>gn was one of<br />
Ljubljana’s first proper home de<strong>si</strong>gn stores, and is still<br />
one of the best places in town to find unique items for<br />
every room in your house - from kitchen appliances,<br />
ottomans and beds to vases, clocks and door stops<br />
and pretty much everything in between. While the vast<br />
majority of products are imported from well-known firms<br />
in Italy and Denmark, the prices are far from exorbitant,<br />
and some of the most frequent clients are young families<br />
furnishing their own homes for the first time. Customised<br />
comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve home de<strong>si</strong>gn services are also offered,<br />
usually in cooperation with some of Slovenia’s leading<br />
young architects and interior de<strong>si</strong>gners. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tanja Pak De<strong>si</strong>gn D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1<br />
431 5246, tanja@tanjapak.com, www.tanjapak.<br />
com. An accomplished de<strong>si</strong>gner and artist for well over<br />
a decade, Tanja Pak has had her work in glass displayed<br />
at both individual and group exhibitions around the world,<br />
and has been a professor at Ljubljana’s Academy of Fine<br />
Arts and De<strong>si</strong>gn <strong>si</strong>nce 2001. In 2005 she opened Gallery<br />
Gle<strong>si</strong>a, which was the first and still only gallery in Slovenia<br />
dedicated to promoting the expres<strong>si</strong>ve and aesthetic<br />
value of the medium of glass, and where the work of<br />
established artists in different fields is presented along<strong>si</strong>de<br />
her own permanent exhibitions. Among numerous<br />
other accolades, her work received honourable mention<br />
at the Red Dot awards in both 2008 and 2009. For truly<br />
unique gifts, this unassuming old town de<strong>si</strong>gn shop and<br />
gallery is worth finding. Q Open Mon-Tues 14:00-18:00,<br />
Wed-Thur 11:00-15:00, Fri 14:00-17:00 and first Sat of<br />
every month 09:30-13:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Photo courtesy of Dom De<strong>si</strong>gn<br />
Citypark M-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1587 30<br />
50, info@citypark.<strong>si</strong>, www.citypark.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s biggest<br />
shopping centre got a little bit bigger on 26 November, with<br />
the opening of a new wing - bringing its total store count up<br />
to 124. Be<strong>si</strong>des the mas<strong>si</strong>ve variety of stores (every major<br />
high street brand is here) there is a terrific choice of places<br />
to eat: most of the restaurants here are far better than your<br />
shopping mall average. There’s parking for all, and so big is<br />
this place that even on the bu<strong>si</strong>est of weekends it never feels<br />
opres<strong>si</strong>vely full. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Mercator Center Ljubljana I/J-1, Ljubljanske Brigade<br />
33, tel. (+386) 15 13 99 52, info@mercator.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
mercator.<strong>si</strong>. A huge, modern shopping centre with plenty<br />
of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops in here<br />
plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the north of<br />
the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Supernova M-6, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 14 28 88<br />
83, info@supernova.<strong>si</strong>, www.supernova.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s<br />
newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the<br />
city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car<br />
while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check<br />
out the all-you-can-eat sushi place, which is great value for<br />
your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Sports & Recreation<br />
Intersport C-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57,<br />
intersport@mercator.<strong>si</strong>, www.intersport.<strong>si</strong>. Everything<br />
you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Patrick Sport K-2, Celovška 34, tel. (+386) 14 39<br />
10 15. Whether you are skier, you love hiking or any of the<br />
sport activities that are popular in Slovenia, you should<br />
check out this specialised store. A small sporting goods<br />
store with a wide selection of equipment for various activities.<br />
They concentrate on brands of very high quality like the<br />
Kelme brand of football apparel and Hi-Tech gear for the<br />
outdoorsy types. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Watches<br />
Slo Watch D-3, Čopova 1, tel. (+386) 12 44 31 30/<br />
(+386) 31 32 08 11, zlatica<strong>si</strong>@slowatch.<strong>si</strong>, www.slowatch.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
With eight locations in Ljubljana, most of which are<br />
in the city’s main shopping areas, it’s hard to miss the crownadorned<br />
logo of the country’s most prolific watch retailer. At<br />
their upmarket flagship store located right on Prešernov Trg,<br />
prospective customers are given first-class treatment while<br />
shopping for brands whose advertisements regularly line<br />
the pages of glossy fashion magazines: Breitling, Tag Heuer,<br />
Longines. For those of us with more earth-bound budgets,<br />
their shops in BTC and Supernova (among others) offer more<br />
modestly-priced timepieces. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Wine Shops<br />
Vino Boutique C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 1 42 52<br />
680, www.vino-boutique.com. Despite being located on<br />
Ljubljana’s main thoroughfare, this small wine shop is somewhat<br />
hidden away in a vaulted brick cellar at the bottom of<br />
narrow staircase. While the selection isn’t mas<strong>si</strong>ve, most of<br />
what they carry you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in<br />
the city, including bottles from two of our favourite vineyards,<br />
Sveti Martin and Erzetič. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
64 sLoveniA wine guide<br />
Discover the countless vineyards amongst the<br />
Tuscanesque rolling hills of Slovenia’s Brda region<br />
Brda<br />
Occupying 72km² of rolling hills between the Soča River and<br />
Italian border, Brda is one of Slovenia’s foremost wine-growing<br />
areas and only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. Often described<br />
as a miniature ver<strong>si</strong>on of Tuscany, every hill seems to be<br />
topped with a large church (there are actually only 30 in all)<br />
surrounded by a charming little village, while the hill<strong>si</strong>des and<br />
valleys in between are blanketed with vineyards, orchards and<br />
winding country roads. A<strong>si</strong>de from a few larger estates and<br />
one cooperative, most of the vineyards are smaller family-run<br />
operations, and almost all offer some combination of wine<br />
tastings, tours, meals, accommodation and of course wine<br />
sales.<br />
The region is also known for its traditional Italian-influenced<br />
cui<strong>si</strong>ne, and a trip to Brda without enjoying a slow<br />
multi-course meal on a terrace overlooking the vineyards<br />
almost defeats the entire purpose. The tourist information<br />
office at Dobrovo Castle is well-stocked with multi-lingual<br />
maps, brochures and other literature, and a great place to<br />
start for first-time vi<strong>si</strong>tors.<br />
Erzetič Višnjevik 25A, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386)<br />
53 95 94 60, fax (+386) 41 64 31 14, erzetic.<br />
visnjevik@volja.net, www.vina-erzetic.com. Located in<br />
the unassuming village of Višnjevik, the Erzetič winery offers<br />
one of the more unique wine tasting experiences in the Brda<br />
region. Dating back to 1725, the family-run estate produces<br />
up to 80,000 bottles per year - several varieties of which have<br />
been decorated at internnational competitions, including the<br />
prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards. They’re also one<br />
of only two wineries in Slovenia to produce wine u<strong>si</strong>ng large<br />
ceramic vases called amphoras - which were specially-built in<br />
in Georgia and give the wine a very distinctive earthy flavour.<br />
Grad Dobrovo Grajska 10, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386)<br />
53 95 95 86, fax (+386) 51 81 64 70. If you’ve never been<br />
to Brda before, Dobrovo Castle is a logical first stop on your<br />
tour. The region’s well-stocked and extremely helpful tourist<br />
information centre is located in the courtyard, and in<strong>si</strong>de there’s<br />
a museum, art gallery and restaurant. The menu - in Slovene,<br />
Italian and German, but not English - fits on two pages, but the<br />
prices are reasonable, the servings ample and the views from<br />
the back terrace postcard worthy. After (or in lieu of) you meal,<br />
don’t forget to stop by the wine bar in the cellar.<br />
Klinec Homestead Medana 20, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel.<br />
(+386) 53 95 94 08, fax (+386) 31 33 94 63, nejkak@<br />
yahoo.com, klinec.<strong>si</strong>. More than just a winery or tourist farm,<br />
the Klinec homestead is a truly one of a kind place. The small<br />
family-run operation produces a range of exqui<strong>si</strong>te organic<br />
wines and serves an array of mouth-watering seasonal dishes<br />
following traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Brda<br />
region. They also play a central role in Medana’s thriving arts<br />
scene, hosting well-known painters and sculptors for a weeklong<br />
festival every October, as well as various jazz concerts,<br />
film viewings and poetry readings throughout the year.<br />
Vipava<br />
While the valley stretches only some two dozen kilometres,<br />
from the impo<strong>si</strong>ng Mt Nanos in the east to the city of Nova<br />
Gorica in the west, its unique location at the confluence<br />
of several different climate zones gives rise to no less<br />
than five distinct micro-regions: the Lower Vipava, Middle<br />
Vipava, Upper Vipava, Vipava Hills and Branica Valley.<br />
While the effects of this varied geography is clear even to<br />
first-time vi<strong>si</strong>tors, with plants like figs and palm trees growing<br />
at one end of the valley but not the other, the region’s<br />
most notable feature is the Bora (or Burja in Slovene) wind,<br />
which gusts down from Mt Nanos at speeds exceeding 200<br />
km/h. The wind is strongest during the wintertime, and is<br />
the reason why the buildings in villages are built so close<br />
together and roofs are piles with stones - it also often leads<br />
to the closure of the motorway. However, far from being an<br />
inconvenience, the valley’s 20,000 plus inhabitants seem to<br />
revel in their constant battle with the forces of nature, and<br />
have been rewarded with some of the finest wine making<br />
conditions in the world.<br />
Vinoteka Vipava Glavni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 5 368 70<br />
41/(+386) 51 215 226, tic.vipava@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.<br />
vipava.<strong>si</strong>. The combined tourist information centre and wine<br />
cellar on Vipava’s main square is probably the best place for<br />
first-time vi<strong>si</strong>tors to begin a day of wine tasting in the Vipava<br />
Valley. When you enter the building the information centre is<br />
through the doors to the left and is stocked with all manner of<br />
brochures, bu<strong>si</strong>ness cards and maps, as well as an assortment<br />
of local souvenirs. On the oppo<strong>si</strong>te <strong>si</strong>de of the hall is a small<br />
modern tasting room with around 130 wines from the region.<br />
The knowledgeable staff will gladly make recommendations<br />
and help you plan your itinerary through the valley - if you don’t<br />
have time to vi<strong>si</strong>t every winery on your list, all bottles can also<br />
be purchased for prices <strong>si</strong>milar to those the vineyards. In a<br />
room to the back you can watch a brief 15 minute film, which,<br />
unintentional comedy a<strong>si</strong>de, will give you a good overview of the<br />
valley’s history and long-standing viticulture tradition. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Sample Vipava’s famous Zelen at Vinoteka Vipava<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Sveti Martin Brje 121, Dobravlje, tel. (+386) 5 30 57 700/<br />
(+386) 31 200 111, p_stegovec@hotmail.com. Perched<br />
high above the valley in hilltop village of the same name, Sveti<br />
Martin isn’t the ea<strong>si</strong>est winery to find, but is definitely worth the<br />
extra effort. The microclimate of the surrounding slopes allow<br />
for production of especially high quality vintages, most notably<br />
from Vipava’s indigenous grapes: Zelen, Pinela and Klarnica - the<br />
latter being a limited production dessert wine, which is one of our<br />
personal favourites among all Slovene wines. The tasting room in<br />
the cellar can accommodate small to medium-<strong>si</strong>zed groups, and a<br />
degustation menu can be arranged with advanced booking.<br />
Sutor Wine Farm Podraga 30-31, Podnanos, tel. (+386)<br />
5 36 69 367, fax (+386) 5 36 86 166, primoz.lavrencic@png.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.sutor.<strong>si</strong>. Located in the exceptionally picturesque<br />
village of Podraga, who’s narrow lanes and high stone walls are<br />
not only photogenic but necessary to protect against the fierce<br />
winds the regularly rumble down from adjacent Mt Nanos, the<br />
Sutor estate has built a much-deserved reputation as one of<br />
Slovenia’s best wineries. Run by two brothers, Mitja and Primož<br />
Lavrenčič, the farm uses only organic methods and has been<br />
amply rewarded at numerous international wine competitions.<br />
Although the focus here is strictly on wine production rather<br />
than tourism, that hasn’t prevented them from opening one of<br />
the valley’s largest tasting rooms, which even includes both a<br />
fireplace and piano.<br />
Štajerska<br />
Known as Lower Styria in English and Untersteiermark in<br />
German, is one of Slovenia’s five historical regions, and<br />
the centre of viticulture in the eastern half of the country.<br />
The region produces mainly white wines with some of the<br />
most common varieties being Reisling, Traminec, Muškat<br />
and the autochthonous Šipon. It was also the first region<br />
in Slovenia to produce sparkling wine.<br />
Dveri Pax Polički Vrh 1, Jarenina, tel. (+386) 2 644<br />
00 82, fax (+386) 2 644 00 83, office@dveri-pax.com,<br />
www.dveri-pax.com. Since undergoing major renovations<br />
and expan<strong>si</strong>on in 2007, the Dveri Pax winery has been collecting<br />
London Decanter and other prestigious international<br />
awards like they were Pez dispensers. As with most of the<br />
vineyards in the Štajerska region, they produce a full range<br />
of white wines including Riesling, Traminec and, our personal<br />
favourite, the autochthonous Šipon variety, as well as several<br />
reds. Wine a<strong>si</strong>de, the property itself is worth a vi<strong>si</strong>t. Hidden<br />
away amongst the green hills 20km north of Maribor, a 200<br />
year-old farmhouse serves as the main production facility, while<br />
a former Benedictine monastery dating back to 1139 hosts<br />
group wine tastings, events and even a small museum. Plans<br />
are also afoot to convert the upper floor to guest rooms.<br />
Radgonske Gorice Jurkovičeva 5, Gornja Radgona, tel.<br />
(+386) 2 564 85 10/(+386) 2 561 10 39, info@radgonskegorice.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.radgonske-gorice.<strong>si</strong>. Slovenia’s first producer<br />
of sparkling wine has been turning out the bubbly stuff for over a<br />
century and a half now. Located only a just across the river Mura<br />
from the Austrian border in the far northeast of Slovenia, their<br />
vast and varied cellars are open for tastings, tours and even the<br />
odd wedding, while a <strong>si</strong>ghtseeing train makes its way though the<br />
thousand year old Radgona and Kapela districts.<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
sLoveniA wine guide<br />
World’s Oldest Vine<br />
Maribor’s Old Vine & Old Vine House D-2,<br />
Vojašniška 8, tel. (+386) 2 251 51 00, stara-trta@<br />
maribor.<strong>si</strong>. Where the oldest vine in the world can be<br />
found winding its way up the front of the building, the house<br />
is now a museum dedicated to teaching vi<strong>si</strong>tors all there<br />
is to know about the wine culture of the Styrian region of<br />
Slovenia. At 400 years of age the vine has claimed its<br />
rightful place in the Guinnesss Book of Records and still<br />
bears the Zametovka or Blue Franconian grape, one of<br />
the oldest wine types in the country. The museum offers<br />
guided tours and also boasts an unparalleled collection<br />
of Styrian wines, which can be bought at a very generous<br />
discount. The house also plays host to a festival in its own<br />
name which is held every September, and is the starting<br />
point for three wine roads. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
The tasting room at Radgonske Gorice<br />
Vinag Trg Svobode 3, tel. (+386) 2 22 08 119, www.<br />
vinag.<strong>si</strong>. One of the largest clas<strong>si</strong>cal wine cellars in Central<br />
Europe is located in, or rather under, the heart of Maribor.<br />
Comprised of over 2km of tunnels covering some 20,000m²<br />
and containing nearly 6 million litres of wine, the place might<br />
be too much for some wine-lovers to handle. Dating back to<br />
1836, the cellar began to grow in <strong>si</strong>ze and importance with<br />
the completion of the Vienna-Trieste railway five years later.<br />
Following World War Two the premises became part of a local<br />
cooperative, and were expanded and modernised in the years<br />
that followed, before being taken over by Vinag in 1960. Nowadays,<br />
a modern wine shop and tasting rooms <strong>si</strong>t on top of the<br />
vast underground network, with more than enough varieties<br />
to keep you busy for several hours. Group tastings and vi<strong>si</strong>ts<br />
to the wine cellar can be arranged with prior notice. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Vinska Klet Ptuj Vinarski Trg 1, Ptuj, tel. (+386) 2 78 79<br />
810, www.pullus.<strong>si</strong>. Beneath Slovenia’s oldest town you’ll find<br />
one the region’s most impres<strong>si</strong>ve wine cellars. Along the two<br />
kilometres of damp photogenic tunnels are ornately decorated<br />
wood barrels, modern production facilities, more than a few<br />
rooms that could ea<strong>si</strong>ly be sets in any number of horror films<br />
and one of the most impres<strong>si</strong>ve wine archives we’ve yet to<br />
see, stacked floor to vaulted ceiling with bottles dating back to<br />
almost 100 years and worth up to five figures at auction. Above<br />
all this are the newly renovated tasting rooms that would look<br />
like they’ve been lifted directly from some 19th century Austrian<br />
nobleman’s castle, were it not for the rows of projectors above<br />
the bar and walls covered with international wine awards.<br />
Located in a courtyard in the eastern part of the old town, it’s<br />
probably ea<strong>si</strong>est to stop by the Ptuj Tourist Information Centre<br />
on Slovenski Trg and ask for walking directions.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
65
66 LiFestyLe direCtory<br />
Beauty & Wellness<br />
Chao Thai Massage M-3, Jana Husa 3, tel. (+386)<br />
40 83 73 63, chaothai.<strong>si</strong>@gmail.com, www.chaothai.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Massage Corner H-1, Dunajska 111a/(+386) 040 97<br />
14 67. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386)<br />
1588 2600/(+386) 030 388 388, sense@sense-club.<br />
com, ww.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Clinics<br />
Health Centre Metelkova F-2, Metelkova 9, tel.<br />
(+386) 1472 37 00.<br />
Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina J-4, Rožna Dolina<br />
IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00.<br />
Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Medical Centre Ljubljana F/G-2,<br />
Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 50 50.<br />
Dentists<br />
Dental clinic F-3, Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 15 22 53 46.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik K-1, Dunajska 129, tel. (+386)<br />
1 565 14 25, pecnik.net16.net.<br />
Health Centre E-1/2, Kotnikova 36, tel. (+386) 1300<br />
96 74, www.zd-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Health Centre Metelkova E/F-2, Metelkova 9, www.<br />
zd-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 20:30 - 04:30.<br />
Dry cleaners<br />
Chemo Express C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251<br />
44 04. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Femiks E-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20,<br />
femiks@amis.net. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08, mehurcek@mehurcek.<strong>si</strong>,<br />
www.mehurcek.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hair Salons<br />
Mič Styling C-3, Kongresni Trg 4; Stari Trg 11a; Igriška<br />
10; Poljanska 13, tel. (+386) 12 41 40 40, www.micstyling.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Salon Mali C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1434 05 52,<br />
frizerski.salon.mali@gmail.com, www.salon-mali.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Take a stroll along Ljubljana’s new river<strong>si</strong>de footpath just<br />
below Breg, photo by Betina Ribeiro<br />
Women’s health<br />
Kalliste Slamnikarska 3b, Domžale, tel. (+386)<br />
1 72 44 300/(+386) 40 454 171, fax (+386) 1<br />
72 44 301, info@kalliste.<strong>si</strong>, www.kalliste.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s<br />
premier genecology, obstetrics, osteoporo<strong>si</strong>s<br />
and medical aesthetics centre is actually located in<br />
the suburb of Domžale a short drive northeast of the<br />
city on the A-1 motorway. Covering the full range (and<br />
then some) of women’s health and beauty treatments,<br />
Kalliste should be the first stop for women seeking<br />
profes<strong>si</strong>onal affordable care in the Ljubljana area.<br />
And husbands and boyfriends should take note that<br />
gift certificates are also available. Q Open Mon-<br />
Thur 08:00-20:00, Fri 08:00-15:00. Closed Sat-Sun<br />
and holidays.<br />
Stevo C-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. (+386) 1431 51 38,<br />
stevo@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.stevo-sp.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Studio Christian C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 41 98<br />
77 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Language courses<br />
Center for Slovene as a Second/Foreign Language<br />
C/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. (+386) 12 41 86<br />
77/(+386) 12 41 86 48, center-slo@ff.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />
centerslo.net. Courses in the Slovenian Language are available<br />
throughout the year.<br />
Veris J-1, Stegne 7, tel. (+386) 1 5000 579/(+386) 40<br />
888 131, izobrazevanje@veris.<strong>si</strong>, www.veris.<strong>si</strong>.<br />
Libraries<br />
City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) C-2, Kersnikova<br />
2, tel. (+386) 1600 13 00, info@mklj.<strong>si</strong>, www.mklj.<br />
<strong>si</strong>. The regional library for central Slovenia is the most<br />
popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English<br />
literature. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National &<br />
Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1200<br />
11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.nuk.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Home of<br />
Slovenia‘s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library<br />
is every researcher‘s dream. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Opticians<br />
Mestna Optika C-3/4, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386)<br />
1251 41 56, www.mestna-optika.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 08:30 -<br />
20:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72<br />
82, info@zajec-optika.<strong>si</strong>, www.zajec-optika.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) D-3,<br />
Prešernov Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1244 23 60, lekarna.<br />
ljubljana@lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 07:30<br />
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Lekarna Ljubljana F-2, Prisojna 7, tel. (+386) 1230<br />
62 30, www.lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Lekarna Miklošič D-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. (+386)<br />
1230 62 52, www.lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30,<br />
Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
u<strong>si</strong>ness direCtory<br />
Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Ljubljana’s Exhibition and Convention Centre, photo courtesy of GR<br />
Banks<br />
Abanka C/D-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15<br />
00.<br />
Bank Of Slovenia C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386)<br />
1471 90 00.<br />
Deželna Banka Slovenije D-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel.<br />
(+386) 1472 71 00.<br />
Hypo Group Alpe Adria K-1, Dunajska 117, tel. (+386)<br />
1 580 40 00.<br />
Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel.<br />
(+386) 1476 39 00.<br />
Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386)<br />
1234 98 18.<br />
Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58.<br />
Unicredit Banka Slovenija D-3, Wolfova 1, tel.<br />
(+386) 1587 64 72.<br />
Bu<strong>si</strong>ness centres<br />
Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova<br />
63, tel. (+386) 1620 34 80.<br />
Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel.<br />
(+386) 1307 09 33.<br />
Tehnološki Park Ljubljana J-4, Teslova 30, tel.<br />
(+386) 1477 66 13.<br />
The Bu<strong>si</strong>ness Center (Virtual Office and Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />
Center) C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 4701<br />
690.<br />
Chambers of Commerce<br />
Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
(Gospodarska Zbornica Slovenije) L-2, Dimičeva<br />
13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00.<br />
Computers<br />
Comshop BTC M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.<br />
(+386) 51 34 59 11.<br />
Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604.<br />
Tech Trade C-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 1434<br />
01 08.<br />
Consultants<br />
IQbator J/K-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41 690<br />
666.<br />
MM-konto J-1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22.<br />
Par H-3, Tbili<strong>si</strong>jska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06.<br />
Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45 67.<br />
Tax-Fin-Lex K-2, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432 42<br />
43.<br />
Embas<strong>si</strong>es and Consulates<br />
Albania M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50.<br />
Australia (consulate) K/L-2, Železna 14, tel. (+386)<br />
1 234 8675.<br />
Austria B-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07 00.<br />
Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200 60 10.<br />
Bosnia & Herzegovina K-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. (+386)<br />
1234 32 50.<br />
Brazil C-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 24 00.<br />
Bulgaria K-4, Opekarska cesta 35, tel. (+386) 1 28<br />
32 899.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
67
68 monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf bu<strong>si</strong>ness 18.3.2009 0:47:20 direCtory<br />
Canada (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386)<br />
1252 44 44.<br />
China L-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55.<br />
Croatia L-4, Gruberjevo Nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200<br />
44 01.<br />
Cyprus D-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1232 15 42.<br />
Czech Republic B-5, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420<br />
24 50.<br />
Denmark C-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 143 80 800.<br />
Finland C-2/3, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1 300<br />
21 20.<br />
France C-5, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00.<br />
Germany B-3, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03 00.<br />
Greece K-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420<br />
14 00.<br />
Hungary Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386) 1512 18 82.<br />
India K-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. (+386) 1 513 31 17.<br />
Ireland E-3, Poljanski Na<strong>si</strong>p 6, tel. (+386) 1 300 89<br />
70.<br />
Italy B-4, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 21 94.<br />
Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82<br />
81.<br />
Latvia C/D-3, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 040 22 91<br />
71.<br />
Lithuania C-5, Emonska 8, tel. (+386) 1 2445 600.<br />
Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel.<br />
(+386) 1470 70 15.<br />
Macedonia K-1, Dunajska 104, tel. (+386) 1 568<br />
44 54.<br />
Malta (consulate) C-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386)<br />
041 444 014.<br />
Montenegro F-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439<br />
53 64.<br />
Netherlands C-2, Poljanski na<strong>si</strong>p 6, tel. (+386) 1420<br />
14 61.<br />
Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 21 40.<br />
Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12.<br />
Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479<br />
05 40.<br />
Romania H-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. (+386) 1505<br />
82 94.<br />
Rus<strong>si</strong>a A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20.<br />
Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10.<br />
Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25.<br />
South Africa (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 4, tel.<br />
(+386) 1200 63 00.<br />
Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420 23 30.<br />
Sweden C/D-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 130<br />
00 270.<br />
Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386)<br />
1200 86 40.<br />
Turkey D-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50.<br />
Ukraine A-5, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04.<br />
UK B-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1200 39 10.<br />
USA B-3, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00.<br />
Express Mail<br />
DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. (+386) 1588 78 00.<br />
FedEx M-3, Ob Železnici 14, tel. (+386) 15 47 33 86.<br />
Kurirček , tel. (+386) 80 1881.<br />
Tine Express J-1, Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. (+386)<br />
15 61 70 00.<br />
TNT Express M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15<br />
87 83 00.<br />
UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42<br />
81 12 00.<br />
Internet Cafés<br />
CyberHP Café Šmartinska 152/G (Citypark), tel.<br />
(+386) 15 42 15 30.<br />
Drog-Art E-1/2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 14 39<br />
72 70.<br />
Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,<br />
tel. (+386) 12 91 23 96.<br />
Xplorer E-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, tel. (+386)<br />
1430 19 91.<br />
Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Name of Street<br />
Place on map<br />
Adamič-Lundrovo D-3<br />
Ajdovščina D-2/3<br />
Ambrožev trg F-4<br />
Aškerčeva cesta<br />
B-4/5, C-4<br />
Barjanska cesta B/C-5<br />
Barvarska E-3<br />
Beethovnova C-3<br />
Bičevje A-5<br />
Bleiweisova cesta<br />
A-3/4, B-2/3, C-2<br />
Bogišićeva B-5<br />
Bohoričeva ulica F/G-2<br />
Bolgarska G-1/2<br />
Borštnikov trg B-4<br />
Breg C/D-4<br />
Brejčeva F-4<br />
Cankarjeva B/C-3<br />
Cankarjevo D-3/4<br />
Celovška cesta<br />
B-1, C-1/2<br />
Cesta 27. Aprila A-3<br />
Cesta Slo. Kmečkih<br />
uporov E-4/5, F-5<br />
Cesta v Rožno dolino<br />
A-3/4<br />
Cigaletova D-1/2<br />
Cimpermanova D-5<br />
Ciril-Metodov trg D-3<br />
Čopova C/D-3<br />
Črtomirova F-1<br />
Čufarjeva D/E-2<br />
Dalmatinova ulica C/D-2<br />
Dolničarjeva D-3<br />
Dunajska cesta D-1<br />
Dvorakova C-1/2,D-2<br />
Dvorni trg C-4<br />
Eipprova C-5<br />
Emonska cesta C-4/5<br />
Erjavčeva B-3/4, C-4<br />
Finžgarjeva ulica B-5<br />
Friškovec F-2<br />
Gallusovo D-4<br />
Gerberjevo C-3<br />
Gestrinova E-3<br />
Gledališka C-3<br />
Gornji trg D-4<br />
Gosposka C-4<br />
Gosposvetska cesta C-2<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
Grablovičeva ulica G-1<br />
Gradaška ulica C-5<br />
Gradišče C-4<br />
Grajska planota D-4<br />
Grajski drevored E-4/5<br />
Gregorčičeva B/C-4<br />
Groharjeva cesta B-4/5<br />
Grudnovo D-5<br />
Hacquetova ulica E/F-1<br />
Hajdrihova ulica A-5<br />
Hradeckega cesta F/G-5<br />
Hrenova D-5<br />
Hribarjevo D-3<br />
Hrvatski trg F-3<br />
Hudovernikova F-4/5<br />
Igriška B/C-4<br />
Ilirska ulica E/F-3<br />
J. Turnograjske C-3/4<br />
Jakopičev<br />
drevored B-1/2<br />
Jakopičevo<br />
sprehajališče A/B-2<br />
Jamova cesta A/B-5<br />
Janežičeva E-5<br />
Japljeva G-2<br />
Jenkova ulica G-1/2<br />
Jurčičev trg C-4<br />
Kapusova G-4<br />
Karlovška cesta D/E-5<br />
Karunova C-5<br />
Kastelčeva E-3<br />
Kersnikova C-2<br />
Kladezna C-5<br />
Kleparska D-4<br />
Ključavničar. D-4<br />
Knafljev prehod C-3<br />
Kolezijska C-5<br />
Kolinska ulica G-1<br />
Kolodvorska D-1/2<br />
Komenskega ulica<br />
D-2, E-2/3<br />
Kongresni trg C-3/4<br />
Kopitarjeva E-3<br />
Korytkova G-2<br />
Kotnikova ulica F-1/2/3<br />
Krakovska C-5<br />
Krakovski na<strong>si</strong>p C/D-5<br />
Kratka C-4<br />
Krekov trg D/E-3<br />
Kristanova E-3<br />
Križevniška C-4<br />
Real estate<br />
Abc Nepremičnine C-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386)<br />
1300 00 00.<br />
Agencia M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1521 15 65.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel.<br />
(+386) 80 81 81.<br />
Luster H-2, Tržaška 124, tel. (+386) 1200 49 54, fax<br />
(+386) 1200 59 55.<br />
Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. (+386)<br />
1300 73 70.<br />
Krojaška D-4<br />
Kurilniška C-1<br />
Langusova ulica A-5<br />
Lepi pot A-4/5, B-5<br />
Levstikov trg D-4/5<br />
Levstikova A/B-4<br />
Likozarjeva C/D-1<br />
Lipičeva F/G-3<br />
Livarska D-1<br />
Lončarska steza E-4<br />
Mačja steza D-4<br />
Maistrova ulica F-2<br />
Mala D-3<br />
Mali trg D-3<br />
Masarykova cesta E/F-1<br />
Mencingerjeva B-5<br />
Merosodna D-5<br />
Mesarska G-4<br />
Mestni trg D-4<br />
Metelkova ulica E-2, F-1/2<br />
Miklošičeva cesta D-2/3<br />
Mirje B/C-5<br />
Močnikova G-1/2<br />
Murnikova B-5<br />
Muzejska B-3<br />
Na grad D-4<br />
Na stolbi E-4<br />
Nazorjeva C/D-3<br />
Nebotičnikov C-3<br />
Njegoševa cesta F-2/3<br />
Novakova F-1<br />
Novi trg C-4<br />
Obrežna D-3<br />
Oražnova ulica A-4<br />
Osojna pot D/E-4<br />
Osojna steza D-4<br />
Ovinki D-4<br />
Parmova ulica C-1<br />
Peternel. C-4<br />
Petkovškovo<br />
nabrežje D/E/F-3<br />
Pivovarniška B/C-1<br />
Plečnikov trg C-3<br />
Pod gradom D-4/5, E-4/5<br />
Pod trančo D-4<br />
Pod turnom A-2/3, B-2<br />
Pogačarjev trg D-3<br />
Poljanska<br />
cesta E-3, F3/4, G-4<br />
Poljanski na<strong>si</strong>p E/F/G-3<br />
Potočnikova G-3/4<br />
street register<br />
Povšetova ulica G-3<br />
Pražakova D-1<br />
Prečna D-3<br />
Prešernov trg D-3<br />
Prešernova cesta B-2/3<br />
Prežihova C-2/3<br />
Pri brvi C-5<br />
Prijateljeva D/E-5<br />
Prisojna F-2<br />
Prule D-5<br />
Puharjeva C-2<br />
Razgledna steza D-4<br />
Reber D-4<br />
Rečna C-5<br />
Resljeva cesta E-2/3<br />
Ribji trg D-3<br />
Riharjeva ulica B-5<br />
Rimska B/C-4<br />
Robbova E-1<br />
Roška cesta E-5, F-4/5<br />
Rozmanova ulica F-2/3<br />
Rožna D-5<br />
Ruska ulica B-1<br />
Rutarjeva A-3<br />
Salendrova C-4<br />
Slomškova ulica D/E-2<br />
Slovenska<br />
cesta C-2/3/4, D-1/2<br />
Snežniška B-4<br />
Sodarska steza D-4<br />
Soteska C-4<br />
Stari trg D-4<br />
Stiška D-4<br />
Streliška ulica E-4, F-4/5<br />
Stritarjeva D-3<br />
Strmi pot E/F-5<br />
Strossmayerjeva E-3/4<br />
Strupijevo nabrežje<br />
F-5, G-4/5<br />
Šketova G-1/2<br />
Škrabčeva ulica A-3<br />
Šlajmerjeva G-2/3<br />
Šmartinska cesta<br />
F-1/2, G-1<br />
Štefanova C-2/3<br />
Štrekljeva ulica A-3/4<br />
Študentovska D-3<br />
Šubičeva ulica B/C-3<br />
Tabor E/F-2<br />
Tavčarjeva ulica D-2<br />
Tesarska D-5<br />
Teslova ulica A/B-5<br />
Tivolska cesta C/D-1<br />
Tobačna A-3/4<br />
Tomšičeva B/C-3<br />
Trdinova D/E-2<br />
Trg francoske<br />
revolucije C-4<br />
Trg mladinskih<br />
delovnih brigad B-4<br />
Trg osvobodilne<br />
fronte D-1<br />
Trg republike B/C-3<br />
Trnovski pristan D-5<br />
Trubarjeva cesta<br />
D/E/F-3<br />
Tržaška cesta A-4/5<br />
Ulica Janeza Pavla II.<br />
E-3/4<br />
Ulica stare pravde E-4<br />
Ulica talcev E/F-4<br />
Valvasorjeva B-3<br />
Vegova C-4<br />
Veselova B-3<br />
Vidovdanska E-3<br />
Vilharjeva cesta D/E/F-1<br />
Vodna D-4<br />
Vodnikov trg D/E-3<br />
Vogelna C-5<br />
Volaričeva A-5<br />
Vošnjakova C-1/2<br />
Vožarski pot D-5<br />
Vrazov trg F-3<br />
Vrhovčeva F-2<br />
Vrtača A/B-4<br />
Vrtna C-5<br />
Wolfova C/D-3<br />
Za čreslom D-3<br />
Za gradom E-5<br />
Za ograjami D-3/4<br />
Zaloška cesta F/G-3<br />
Zarnikova ulica E/F-4<br />
Zdravstvena F-4<br />
Zemljemerska E/F-4<br />
Zoisova cesta C-4/5<br />
Zvezdarska D-5<br />
Zvonarska D-5<br />
Žabjak D-5<br />
Železna E-1<br />
Židovska C-4<br />
Živinozdravska G-3/4<br />
Župančičeva C-2/3<br />
Relocations<br />
Relocations Ltd H-1, Slovenska 34 (The Bu<strong>si</strong>ness Centre),<br />
tel. (+386) 40 51 78 20, fax (+386) 14 70 16 99.<br />
Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel.<br />
(+386) 1565 69 50.<br />
Vatovec D-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40.<br />
Translators<br />
Alkemist J-2, Obirska 4, tel. (+386) 1514 16 78.<br />
Berlitz C-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1433 13 25.<br />
February - March 2011<br />
69
Abanka 67<br />
Adria Airways 8<br />
Agencia 69<br />
Air France 8<br />
Ajdovo Zrno 36<br />
Albania 67<br />
Al Capone 33<br />
Alibi 26<br />
Alkemist 69<br />
Allegro 21<br />
Antiq 21<br />
Antiq Palace & Spa 20<br />
Antonín Dvorak: Rusalka 14<br />
Argentino 31<br />
As 31<br />
Atrium 31<br />
Australia (consulate) 67<br />
Austria 67<br />
Austrian Airlines 8<br />
Austria Trend 22<br />
Azur 26, 33<br />
Bangkok Street 29<br />
Bank Of Slovenia 67<br />
Belgium 67<br />
Berlitz 69<br />
Best Western Premier Slon 22<br />
Bon Appétit 31<br />
Bosnia & Herzegovina 67<br />
Botanical Gardens 56<br />
Brazil 67<br />
Brussels Airlines 8<br />
Budget 7<br />
Bulgaria 67<br />
Bus Station 7<br />
Čad 30<br />
Café Open 48<br />
Canada (consulate) 68<br />
Cantina Mexicana 34<br />
Celica 26<br />
Center 24<br />
Center for Slovene as a<br />
Second/Foreign Language 66<br />
Central Pharmacy 66<br />
Čevljarski Most 49<br />
Čez Cesto 37<br />
Cha 37<br />
Chamber of Commerce and<br />
Industry of Slovenia 67<br />
Chao Thai Massage 66<br />
Chemo Express 66<br />
Chile (consulate) 68<br />
China Fast Food 29<br />
City Library 66<br />
Comshop BTC 67<br />
Contemporary History<br />
Museum 54<br />
Croatia 68<br />
CyberHP Café 68<br />
Cyprus 68<br />
Czech Airlines 8<br />
Czech Republic 68<br />
Denmark 68<br />
Dental clinic 66<br />
Deželna Banka Slovenije 67<br />
Don Felipe 36<br />
Drago F Tinta 37<br />
Drog-Art 68<br />
Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik 66<br />
Dulcis Caffe 37<br />
Dveri Pax 65<br />
Easyjet 8<br />
Elit Taxi 8<br />
Emonec 26<br />
Emonska Klet 31<br />
Equrna 16<br />
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />
ESITI 18<br />
Europcar 7<br />
Eventim 18<br />
FedEx 68<br />
Femiks 66<br />
Festivalna Dvorana 15<br />
Finland 68<br />
France 68<br />
Gala Hala 15<br />
Galerija Kre<strong>si</strong>ja 16<br />
Ganes Pratt 16<br />
Germany 68<br />
Gibanica / Moving Cake: 5th<br />
Festival of Slovenian Dance 12<br />
Gostilna Krpan 30<br />
Gostilna na Gradu 36<br />
Gostilnica Rimska XXI 36<br />
Grajska Kavarna 37<br />
Grand Hotel Union Executive 20<br />
Greece 68<br />
Gymna<strong>si</strong>vm Sauna 48<br />
Hala Tivoli 16<br />
Harambaša 30<br />
Health Centre 66<br />
Health Centre Metelkova 66<br />
Hostel Print 26<br />
Hungary 68<br />
Hypo Group Alpe Adria 67<br />
India 68<br />
International Centre of<br />
Graphic Arts 54<br />
IQbator 67<br />
Ireland 68<br />
Italy 68<br />
Japan 68<br />
JB 31<br />
Jelen 36<br />
Juicebox 31<br />
Jurman 32<br />
K4 Roza 48<br />
Kalliste 66<br />
Kavarna Tromostovje 37<br />
Kavarna Union 18<br />
Kino Dvor 15<br />
Kinoklub Vič 15<br />
Kino Šiška 16<br />
Kinoteka 15<br />
Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna<br />
dolina 66<br />
Kolosej 15<br />
Konkurenca 35<br />
Križanke 16<br />
Krvavec 19<br />
Kurirček 68<br />
Latvia 68<br />
Lekarna Ljubljana 66<br />
Lekarna Miklošič 66<br />
Le Petit Café 37<br />
Lesar Hotel Angel 21<br />
Lev 21<br />
Lithuania 68<br />
Ljubljana Airport 7<br />
Ljubljana Castle 56<br />
Ljubljana Nepremičnine 69<br />
Ljubljana Tourist Information<br />
Centre 49<br />
Ljubljana Zoo 56<br />
Ljubljanski Univerzitetni<br />
Inkubator 67<br />
Lolita 37<br />
Lufthansa 8<br />
Lunch Café Marley & Me 32<br />
Luster 69<br />
Luxemburg (consulate) 68<br />
Macedonia 68<br />
Maček 38<br />
Malta (consulate) 68<br />
Maribor Pohorje 19<br />
Massage Corner 66<br />
Medana 34<br />
Mehurček 66<br />
Mesarski Most 49<br />
Mestna Galerija 16<br />
Mestna Hiša 52<br />
Mestna Optika 66<br />
Metelkova Mesto 16<br />
Metro Taxi 8<br />
M Hotel 24<br />
Mič Styling 66<br />
MM-konto 67<br />
Mons 21<br />
Montenegro 68<br />
Namasté 31<br />
Narodna In Univerzitetna<br />
Knjižnica 66<br />
National Drama Theatre 18<br />
National Gallery 54<br />
National Museum 54<br />
National Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Library 52<br />
Natural History Museum 56<br />
Nebotičnik 32, 38, 52<br />
Netherlands 68<br />
Norway 68<br />
Nova Ljubljanska Banka 67<br />
Olimpija 30<br />
Oliva 34<br />
Opcija 35<br />
Optika Zajec 66<br />
Orthodox Church 52<br />
Oton Zupancic Library 68<br />
Panč Stand-Up Comedy<br />
Festival 14<br />
Par 67<br />
Parma 34<br />
Penzion na Klancu 28<br />
Penzion Tavčar 26<br />
Philharmonic 16<br />
Photon 16<br />
Planica 2011 16<br />
Plato 32<br />
Pokal Vitranc Ski World Cup<br />
2011 15<br />
Poland 68<br />
Portugal 68<br />
Poslovni angeli Slovenije 67<br />
Pri Semaforju 38<br />
Pri Škofu 36<br />
Pro-Eco 67<br />
Puppet Theatre 18<br />
Q Cultural Centre 48<br />
Raiffeisen Bank 67<br />
Relocations Ltd 69<br />
Rio-Momo 30<br />
Robba Fountain 54<br />
Romania 68<br />
Royal Nepremičnine 69<br />
Rus<strong>si</strong>a 68<br />
Salon 32<br />
Salon Mali 66<br />
San Martino 33<br />
Sarajevo '84 30<br />
SAS Scandinavian Airlines 8<br />
Selitveni servis Repič 69<br />
SEM Kavarna 38<br />
Sense Welness Club 66<br />
Serbia 68<br />
SiQRD 48<br />
Skb 67<br />
Škuc Gallery 16<br />
Slon 33<br />
index<br />
Slovakia 68<br />
Slovenia for Gay Travelers 48<br />
Slovenian National Opera &<br />
Ballet Theatre 18<br />
Slovenian Tourist Information<br />
Center 49<br />
Slovenska Mladinska Gledališče<br />
18<br />
Smrekarjev Hram 33<br />
Sofra 30<br />
Sosed 67<br />
South Africa (consulate) 68<br />
Spain 68<br />
Stari Tišler 26<br />
STA Travel Cafe 38<br />
Stevo 66<br />
Stil 24<br />
Studio Christian 66<br />
Sushimama 30<br />
Sveti Martin 65<br />
Sweden 68<br />
Switzerland 68<br />
Tax-Fin-Lex 67<br />
Tech Trade 67<br />
Tehnološki Park Ljubljana 67<br />
Thai Sabai 48<br />
The Bu<strong>si</strong>ness Center (Virtual<br />
Office and Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />
Center) 67<br />
Themes of Antiquity in<br />
the work of Francesco<br />
Kavčič/Caucig 14<br />
The Old Vine & The Old Vine<br />
House 65<br />
This Is All Film! Experimental<br />
Film in Former Yugoslavia,<br />
1951-1991 14<br />
Tine Express 68<br />
Tivoli Park 50<br />
TNT Express 68<br />
Toulouse-Latrec: A Master<br />
of Poster Art 14<br />
Tour AS 28<br />
Tourist Information Centre 18<br />
Train Station 7<br />
Trattoria Katrca 33<br />
Tromostovje 49<br />
Trta 34<br />
Turag4all 52<br />
Turkey 68<br />
Turkish Airlines 8<br />
UK 68<br />
Ukraine 68<br />
Unicredit Banka Slovenija 67<br />
Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Medical Centre<br />
Ljubljana 66<br />
UPS Intereuropa 68<br />
USA 68<br />
Vatovec 69<br />
Vegedrom 36<br />
Velika Planina 19<br />
Veris 66<br />
Vila Veselova 26<br />
Vinag 65<br />
Vinoteka Vipava 64<br />
Vinska Klet Ptuj 65<br />
Xplorer 68<br />
Zajčja Dobrava 34<br />
Žale Cemetery 52<br />
Zlatorog 28<br />
Zvezda 38<br />
Zmajski Most 50<br />
February - March 2011<br />
75