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Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

N°16 - € 2.90<br />

N°5 - 6Lt<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

<strong>LJUBLJANA</strong><br />

February - March 2011<br />

Prešeren Day<br />

February 8th is Slovenia’s national<br />

day of culture, which means no work<br />

and free museums!<br />

Pokal Vitranc & Planica<br />

Two of Europe’s biggest ski<br />

competitions take place in March


ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />

Contents<br />

Arriving in Ljubljana 6<br />

Getting around 7<br />

Ba<strong>si</strong>cs 9<br />

Statistics, politics and where to find the loo<br />

History 10<br />

2,000 years in 800 words<br />

Language 11<br />

Culture & Events 12<br />

Mu<strong>si</strong>c, festivals and exhibitions 12<br />

Cultural centres and venues 15<br />

Ski Centres 19<br />

A day on the slopes is only 20 minutes away<br />

Where to stay 20<br />

Bu<strong>si</strong>ness suites to hostel bunks<br />

Despite being hidden away in the basement under<br />

Kinoteka, Bon Appétit is one of Ljubljana’s most romantic<br />

restaurants - of course the fact that it’s authentically<br />

French surely helps.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Contents<br />

In 2011 Slovenia celebrates its 20th year of independence,<br />

culminating in a major ‘Homecoming’ event that will be held<br />

on 1 July in Ljubljana. See www.twenty.<strong>si</strong> for more info<br />

Dining & Nightlife 29<br />

Where to eat 29<br />

Everything from A to V(egetarian)<br />

Cafés 40<br />

Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes<br />

Nightlife 39<br />

Dance and drink the night away<br />

What to see 49<br />

Bridges, museums and the castle<br />

Where to shop 58<br />

The best of what and where to buy<br />

Slovenia Wine Guide 64<br />

Highlights from three wine regions<br />

Directory 66<br />

Lifestyle 66<br />

Bu<strong>si</strong>ness 67<br />

Maps & Index<br />

Street Register 69<br />

City centre map 70<br />

City map 72<br />

Country map 74<br />

Index 75<br />

February - March 2011<br />

3


4 Foreword<br />

What was predicted to be the coldest winter in years has<br />

mercifully failed to live up to expectations, while ample snow<br />

in the mountains and a recent spate of beautiful sunny<br />

weather has left both skiers and fans of drinking coffee<br />

at river<strong>si</strong>de cafés perfectly contented. We encourage the<br />

former group to check out our guide to Slovenia’s numerous<br />

ski resorts (p 19) - and vote for their favourite in our new<br />

online poll - while the latter can find a couple of new places to<br />

get their caffeine fix in our updated Cafés section (p 37).<br />

After a slight lull in activity over the holidays there is also once<br />

again a full slate of cultural events during the coming months,<br />

including a series of concerts in honour of one-time Ljubljana<br />

re<strong>si</strong>dent Gustav Mahler, English language stand-up comedy,<br />

some experimental Yugoslavian films at the Museum of Modern<br />

Art and a concert by Ethiopian jazz legend Mulatu Astatke,<br />

among many others (p 12). You’ll want to mark 8 February down<br />

on your calendar, as Slovenia’s national day of culture is not only<br />

a work-free day but most museums, galleries and other cultural<br />

institutions also waive their admis<strong>si</strong>on fees.<br />

And finally, congratulations to all the winners and finalists<br />

of our Best Ljubljana Nightlife poll, and a big thanks to the<br />

thousands of people who cast their votes over the past<br />

month - the results can be viewed in detail on page 47. As<br />

always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook,<br />

Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.<br />

Cover story<br />

One of architect Jože Plečnik’s finest<br />

creations, the National Univer<strong>si</strong>ty library<br />

(p 52) is known for its monumental<br />

stature and somewhat impo<strong>si</strong>ng façade.<br />

However, it is the exqui<strong>si</strong>te attention<br />

to detail which makes the building<br />

truly amazing. One such example, and<br />

a favourite subject of both amateur and<br />

profes<strong>si</strong>onal photographers, are the<br />

incredible horse head door handles of the building’s main<br />

entrance on Turjaška Ulica.<br />

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket<br />

Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana<br />

Slovenia<br />

Tel. +386 30 316 602<br />

ljubljana@inyourpocket.com<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc.<br />

niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com<br />

ISSN 1855-3486<br />

©IQBATOR d.o.o.<br />

Printed Schwartz<br />

Published Published <strong>si</strong>x times per<br />

year<br />

Maps Monolit d.o.o.<br />

Editorial<br />

Editor Yuri Barron<br />

Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig<br />

Turp, Richard Schofield, Francisco<br />

Alvarez, Elliott Foxton, Patrick Byrne<br />

Layout & De<strong>si</strong>gn Vaida Gudynaitė<br />

Consulting Craig Turp<br />

Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourism,<br />

Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam,<br />

Betina Ribeiro, Flavio Takemoto<br />

Cover photo Barbara Jakše and Stane<br />

Jeršič<br />

Sales & Circulation<br />

Sales & Operations Management<br />

Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar,<br />

Biljana Maletič, Katja Šneler, Mojca<br />

Slovša<br />

Europe In Your Pocket<br />

In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of<br />

late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands<br />

(Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in<br />

Croatia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in<br />

Serbia (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). A new<br />

guide to Minsk, Belarus, will be the next In Your<br />

Pocket to launch.<br />

We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to<br />

all our cities. We will be launching even more In<br />

Your Pocket guides as apps throughout 2011:<br />

to find out which cities we will be covering, and<br />

to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news<br />

and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook<br />

(facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on<br />

Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).<br />

Copyright notice<br />

Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.<br />

Maps copyright cartographer. All rights<br />

reserved. No part of this publication<br />

may be reproduced in any form, except<br />

brief extracts for the purpose of review,<br />

without written permis<strong>si</strong>on from the<br />

publisher and copyright owner. The<br />

brand name In Your Pocket is used under<br />

license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių<br />

10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212<br />

29 76).<br />

Editor’s note<br />

The editorial content of In Your Pocket<br />

guides is independent from paid-for<br />

adverti<strong>si</strong>ng. Sponsored listings are<br />

clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />

readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />

We have made every effort to ensure<br />

the accuracy of the information at the<br />

time of going to press and assume no<br />

respon<strong>si</strong>bility for changes and errors.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


EuroBasket 2013<br />

At a meeting in Munich<br />

o n 5 D e c e m b e r<br />

2010, the Board of<br />

FIBA Europe chose<br />

Slovenia to host the<br />

European basketball<br />

championships in the<br />

s u m m e r o f 2 01 3!<br />

Slovenia’s love for the<br />

game and success in<br />

recent international<br />

tournaments was a major factor in securing what will be the<br />

country’s largest sporting event. Most of the games, or at<br />

least the final ones, will be held in the new Stožice sports<br />

arena in Ljubljana, while others will be held in soon to be built<br />

sports halls in Novo Mesto, Maribor, Celje and Ptuj.<br />

Ljubljana’s PR! among the finalists at 2010 Digital<br />

Magazine Awards<br />

The electronic ver<strong>si</strong>on of PR! magazine, issued by Ljubljana<br />

Tourism for tourism experts, foreign journalists, tour and<br />

meeting organisers from abroad, reached the finals of<br />

the Digital Magazine Awards 2010 in the category of<br />

travel magazines of the year. Each year, the international<br />

Digital Magazine Awards are granted to the best digital<br />

magazines and their creators in fifteen categories. The<br />

selection panel, comprised of luminaries from the digital<br />

magazine industry, judges the magazines based on their<br />

level of innovation, appealing style and de<strong>si</strong>gn, content,<br />

and effectiveness with target audiences.<br />

Ljubljana IYP on Facebook<br />

Can’t wait for the next<br />

issue of Ljubljana In<br />

Your Pocket? Vi<strong>si</strong>t our<br />

Facebook fan page<br />

to get your daily fix of<br />

snarky comments,<br />

travel and entertainment<br />

news, restaurant<br />

and nightlife tips,<br />

and lots more random<br />

Ljubljana-related info.<br />

Some of our regular features include polls on the best of<br />

what the city has to offer, date night recommendations<br />

and videos teaching everyday Slovene. It’s also the best<br />

place on the web to ask questions you may have about<br />

the Slovene capital. And if that’s not enough we also<br />

like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant<br />

vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Be<strong>si</strong>des, who<br />

couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on<br />

the internet?<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

in the news<br />

Gold Medal at Shanghai Expo<br />

At the clo<strong>si</strong>ng ceremony of the Shanghai Expo 2010, the<br />

Slovenian pavilion, dedicated to Ljubljana, the current<br />

World Book Capital, was awarded the gold medal for<br />

creative interior de<strong>si</strong>gn in the category of up to 2000m²<br />

pavilions. This prestigious award places Slovenia<br />

amongst the countries whose pavilions received the<br />

highest acclaim at the Shanghai Expo 2010. The pavilion,<br />

which at 1000m² was one of the smaller ones at the<br />

exhibition, was de<strong>si</strong>gned by the architect Boris Podrecca<br />

and the artist Matej Andraž Vogrinčič.<br />

Ljubljana World Book Capital<br />

Named as the UNESCO World Book<br />

Capital for 2010, Ljubljana officially<br />

ends its reign on 23 April 2011. The<br />

honour has been both a recognition<br />

of Slovenia’s long-standing literary<br />

tradition, as well as an affirmation of<br />

Ljubljana’s status as an international<br />

tourist destination. Since the first<br />

Slovene book was published by Primož<br />

Trubar in 1550, literature has held<br />

an especially important place in<br />

Slovenia’s cultural landscape, and as<br />

recently as 20 years ago the country led Europe in books<br />

published per capita. There are still many events left on<br />

the Book Capital programme - see www.vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<br />

com for a full listing.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

February - March 2011<br />

5


6 Arriving in LjubLjAnA<br />

Officially part of the Schengen zone <strong>si</strong>nce late 2007 and<br />

nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agreement<br />

countries, entering Slovenia has never been ea<strong>si</strong>er.<br />

With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways<br />

throughout the country, getting around is also fairly<br />

easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning<br />

public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.<br />

Arriving by plane<br />

Ljubljana‘s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest<br />

of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about<br />

30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is<br />

coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus<br />

(€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the<br />

airport‘s web<strong>si</strong>te for a complete schedule.<br />

Arriving by train<br />

Once you‘ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and<br />

made it to the main train station building, find everything<br />

you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up<br />

cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts.<br />

Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated<br />

lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with<br />

the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also<br />

boasts a surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly good Tourist Information Centre, a<br />

train information bureau immediately to the right and currency<br />

exchange oppo<strong>si</strong>te (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends<br />

as always on where you‘re planning to stay and how fit<br />

you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking<br />

distance. Alternatively, find taxis out<strong>si</strong>de, and make sure<br />

the meter is running before you depart.<br />

Arriving by bus<br />

All national and international buses arrive at the central<br />

bus station which is located directly in front of the main<br />

train station. The ‚temporary‘ prefabricated station building<br />

features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals,<br />

making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps<br />

the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station<br />

does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only<br />

other useful facility being a small internet café for which<br />

tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to<br />

town is the same as described above.<br />

Located on Erjavceva just south of Tivoli, this graffiti was<br />

apparently done to commemorate the <strong>si</strong>xteenth issue of<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket<br />

A Word From Our Mayor<br />

For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world<br />

– unique for its special po<strong>si</strong>tion in the heart of Slovenia.<br />

As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts<br />

ever more vi<strong>si</strong>tors every year from near and far. The most<br />

important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly<br />

our re<strong>si</strong>dents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with<br />

their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure<br />

a touch of comfort and warmth.<br />

Welcome to Ljubljana!<br />

Arriving by car<br />

Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and<br />

excellent <strong>si</strong>gnposting. The city is circled by a ring road<br />

from where it‘s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the<br />

parking <strong>si</strong>gns for convenient places to leave your car near<br />

the city centre. Once in the city, it‘s best to walk the short<br />

distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and<br />

narrow street. Also, if you‘re staying in Old Ljubljana be<br />

aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.<br />

If Things Go Wrong<br />

The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue,<br />

andambulance and 113 for police. If pos<strong>si</strong>ble, find<br />

someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the<br />

call <strong>si</strong>ncethere is no guarantee of finding an English<br />

speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit<br />

(Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at<br />

Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana<br />

(D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of<br />

EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharmacies,<br />

dentists, andother services in the directory. You<br />

can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the<br />

police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for<br />

all embas<strong>si</strong>escan be found here under Foreign Representation<br />

in the directory.Useful Emergency Words:<br />

NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP!<br />

ga<strong>si</strong>lci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen<br />

policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police<br />

bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital<br />

Zoran Janković<br />

Mayor<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Urbana Card<br />

Th e c i t y b u s<br />

operator, LPP,<br />

has finally int<br />

r o d u c e d t h e<br />

l o n g - a w a i t e d<br />

U r b a n a C a rd,<br />

a form of electronic<br />

ticketing<br />

that will eventuall<br />

y replace<br />

t h e p r e v i o u s<br />

hodge-podge<br />

system of payment<br />

that included<br />

tokens,<br />

coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-<strong>si</strong>zed smart<br />

card is <strong>si</strong>milar to those already used in other cities,<br />

such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass.<br />

The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2<br />

at many locations including various tobacconists and<br />

news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station<br />

and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta<br />

160. Credit can be added for any amount between<br />

€1-50 at these same locations as well as some three<br />

dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around<br />

town. When getting on the bus <strong>si</strong>mply touch the card<br />

to one of the green card readers at the front entrance<br />

and €0.80 will be deducted from the card allowing 90<br />

minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers.<br />

Public Transport<br />

Although most of Ljubljana‘s <strong>si</strong>ghts are within easy walking<br />

distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people<br />

(and you can trust us as we‘re proud card carrying members<br />

of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient<br />

bus network for reaching attractions farther afield,<br />

such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant<br />

Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the<br />

city looks like out<strong>si</strong>de the city centre. Although you may<br />

be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the<br />

roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so<br />

most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While<br />

nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only<br />

the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for<br />

some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced<br />

Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers<br />

costs only €0.80.<br />

Trains<br />

Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable<br />

job of running an efficient network with clean modern<br />

trains that are usually on time. Their web<strong>si</strong>te (www.slozeleznice.<strong>si</strong>)<br />

contains a wealth of information in English,<br />

including live information on train delays as well as an<br />

online timetable. See the national and international train<br />

schedules in this guide for the main destinations.<br />

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) E-1, Trg Osvobodilne<br />

Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@<br />

slo-zeleznice.<strong>si</strong>, www.slo-zeleznice.<strong>si</strong>. Full of nice touches<br />

such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the<br />

platforms, Ljubljana‘s reasonably central train station just<br />

north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced<br />

by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

getting Around<br />

information on several of the station‘s facilities, plus, if you‘re<br />

planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a<br />

1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with<br />

<strong>si</strong>gns and departure screens in English.<br />

Buses<br />

Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg<br />

Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386)<br />

12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

ap-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. Essentially a large caravan without any<br />

wheels, Ljubljana‘s temporary central bus station couldn‘t<br />

be ea<strong>si</strong>er to use. Enter through one of the doors at either<br />

end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go.<br />

Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you<br />

should always check in the bus station to make sure. The<br />

bus station operates many national routes as well as regular<br />

international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 -<br />

22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.<br />

Car rental<br />

The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/<br />

hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must<br />

use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel,<br />

warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter,<br />

either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is<br />

0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams<br />

and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Budget D-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 14 21 73 40,<br />

info@budget.<strong>si</strong>, www.budget.<strong>si</strong>. Cars from €40 per day.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office<br />

tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.<br />

Europcar D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20<br />

52, reservations@europcar.<strong>si</strong>, sl.europcar.<strong>si</strong>. Cars from<br />

€36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00,<br />

Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open<br />

08:00-21:00.<br />

Airport<br />

Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)<br />

Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386)<br />

42 02 12 20, info@lju-airport.<strong>si</strong>, www.lju-airport.<strong>si</strong>. Well<br />

connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations,<br />

Ljubljana‘s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the<br />

city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There‘s<br />

free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a<br />

couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office<br />

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive<br />

Vinjeta www.dars.<strong>si</strong>. Slovenia requires<br />

all motor vehicles travelling on<br />

Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta<br />

(veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system<br />

exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta<br />

can be ea<strong>si</strong>ly obtained at nearly all<br />

gas stations and kiosks.<br />

Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are<br />

€95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones<br />

are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware<br />

that border police will likely not remind you to purchase<br />

a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely<br />

to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to<br />

do so. For more info check www.dars.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

7


8 getting Around<br />

Taxis<br />

Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable.<br />

The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with<br />

a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the<br />

company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting<br />

usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone<br />

will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.<br />

Elit Taxi Tel. (+386) 41 752 751, elit@elit-taxi.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.elit-taxi.<strong>si</strong>. This friendly well-run taxi company<br />

offers city and airport transfers in a fleet of spotless<br />

new cars and vans. They will also happily drive you<br />

pretty much anywhere in Slovenia (or even surrounding<br />

countries) with special rates for return trips.<br />

Metro Taxi M-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. (+386) 80<br />

11 90.<br />

Taxi Društvo Ljubljana C-2, Gosposvetska 10,<br />

tel. (+386) 1234 90 00, info@taxi-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.taxi-ljubljana.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

(open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00,<br />

Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30<br />

minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated<br />

with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10,<br />

up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport‘s<br />

web<strong>si</strong>te for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Open 24hrs, airport information from 07:00-23:00.<br />

Airlines<br />

Adria Airways (JP) K-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 13 69<br />

10 00, fax (+386) 14 36 88 06, booking@adria.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

adria.<strong>si</strong>. Slovenia‘s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam,<br />

Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Copenhagen,<br />

Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick,<br />

Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de<br />

Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport<br />

office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00<br />

Air France (AF) B-4, Igriška 5, tel. (+386) 12 44 34<br />

47, fax (+386) 12 44 34 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr,<br />

www.airfrance.<strong>si</strong>. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

National bus schedule<br />

From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />

First Last City First Last *<br />

06:00 22:30 BLED 05:00 22:30 18-22<br />

10:15 20:10 CELJE 04:50 18:10 5-9<br />

05:10 22:30 GROSUPLJE 04:23 21:45 50<br />

17:20 MURSKA<br />

SOBOTA<br />

05:45 1<br />

05:30 23:00 POSTOJNA 06:07 21:10 20<br />

11:35 17:20 MARIBOR 06:52 13:35 3-4<br />

05:30 23:00 NOVA GORICA 04:45 19:45 15<br />

06:00 21:35 KOPER 04:56 19:30 13<br />

05:30 19:30 JESENICE 05:44 20:44 14<br />

05:15 23:00 KRANJ 04:20 22:15 50<br />

07:10 22:25 NOVO MESTO 05:45 15:28 10<br />

05:30 19:30 KRAJNSKA 05:20 20:20 15<br />

GORA<br />

All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until 31 December<br />

2010. *Buses per day<br />

International train schedule<br />

From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />

First Last City First Last *<br />

06:15 21:15 BELGRADE 05:50 21:50 4<br />

02:00 08:40 BUDAPEST 12:03 16:35 2<br />

08:05 07:25 GRAZ 06:34 18:37 4<br />

09:27 23:50 MUNICH 08:27 23:40 3<br />

09:27 23:50 PRAGUE 07:14 17:11 2<br />

09:27 23:50 SALZBURG 01:34 14:12 3<br />

02:30 VENICE 21:20 1<br />

05:45 17:25 VIENNA 07:56 15:57 3-8<br />

07:26 23:50 VILLACH 04:07 19:27 7<br />

02:00 21:15 ZAGREB 07:00 23:35 7<br />

20:48 ZURICH 21:40 1<br />

All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December<br />

11, 2010. *Trains per day<br />

Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)<br />

42 02 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com.<br />

Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30,<br />

Sun 06:30 - 10:00.<br />

Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)<br />

42 06 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brussels.<br />

QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42<br />

06 17 50, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.<br />

com. Flights to Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun.<br />

Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+44) 87 06 00<br />

00 00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted and<br />

Paris CDG. Q Airport office tel. (+386) 4 206 16 77. Open<br />

two hours before flights.<br />

Lufthansa C-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 14 34<br />

72 46, lufthansa@adria.<strong>si</strong>, www.lufthansa.de. QOpen<br />

08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) , tel. (+45) 70 10<br />

20 00, www.flysas.com.<br />

Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 4<br />

206 16 80, thyljubljana@<strong>si</strong>ol.com, www.turkishairlines.<br />

com. Flights to Istanbul.<br />

International bus schedule<br />

From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />

First Last City First Last *<br />

12:57 20:20<br />

BANJA LUKA 13:30 13:30 1-3<br />

10:00 22:25 BELGRADE 00:50 21:00 2-3<br />

05:10 05:10 BOLOGNA 15:20 15:20 1<br />

19:45 19:45 BRNO 16:20 16:20 0-1<br />

05:10 08:15 MESTRE<br />

(VENICE)<br />

11:30 17:10 2<br />

18:30 18:30 MUNICH 19:45 19:45 0-1<br />

20:00 20:00 SARAJEVO 15:15 20:40 1-2<br />

20:45 20:45 SOFIA 15:30 15:30 1<br />

15:30 16:00 SKOPJE 15:30 17:00 1-2<br />

05:10 06:35 TRIEST 14:00 19:30 1-2<br />

01:00 01:00 ZAGREB 16:00 16:00 1<br />

All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until 31 December<br />

2010. *Buses per day<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Drinking<br />

Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00<br />

it cannot be bought in stores.<br />

Electricity<br />

Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts<br />

AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.<br />

Money<br />

Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in<br />

denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros,<br />

while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500<br />

euros. The Slovenian <strong>si</strong>de of the euro coins are decorated with<br />

among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses,<br />

a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik de<strong>si</strong>gn.<br />

Politics<br />

The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The<br />

pre<strong>si</strong>dent, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has<br />

been the prime minister <strong>si</strong>nce 2008. The next parliamentary<br />

elections will be in September 2012. The government con<strong>si</strong>sts of<br />

the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.<br />

Ba<strong>si</strong>c data<br />

Population<br />

Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009)<br />

Ljubljana 266,845 (2004)<br />

Area<br />

20,273 square kilometres<br />

Ethnic compo<strong>si</strong>tion<br />

Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%,<br />

Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7%<br />

Official languages<br />

Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian<br />

Local time<br />

Central European (GMT + 1hr)<br />

Longest river<br />

Sava (221km in Slovenia)<br />

Highest mountain<br />

Triglav 2,864m.<br />

Borders<br />

Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km,<br />

Croatia 670km<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Climate<br />

Temperature, °C<br />

30<br />

20<br />

10<br />

0<br />

-10<br />

-20<br />

J<br />

Exchange rates<br />

Market values<br />

bA<strong>si</strong>Cs<br />

Rainfall, mm<br />

150<br />

120<br />

F M A M J J A S O<br />

N<br />

D<br />

Religion<br />

Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the<br />

most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37%<br />

of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the<br />

rest of them believing in ‘something’.<br />

Smoking<br />

Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently<br />

banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special<br />

smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.<br />

Tipping<br />

It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10%<br />

for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.<br />

Toilets<br />

Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon<br />

Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik<br />

Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the<br />

Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).<br />

1 EUR € = 1.34 US$ = 0.84 UK£ = 1.29 CHF<br />

= 1.35 AU$ = 110 ¥ = 8.85 CNY<br />

(20 January, 2011)<br />

90<br />

60<br />

30<br />

Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe,<br />

prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable<br />

increases <strong>si</strong>nce the introduction of the Euro in 2007.<br />

Here are some typical everyday products and prices:<br />

Product Price<br />

McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40<br />

Slice of pizza € 1.80<br />

Slice of burek € 2.00<br />

Cup of coffee € 1.10<br />

Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50<br />

Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50<br />

Bottle of local beer in a shop € 0.90<br />

Pint of beer in a pub € 2.40<br />

Pack of cigarettes € 2.50<br />

Single bus ride € 1.00<br />

Movie ticket € 4.90<br />

Postcard € 0.30<br />

Litre of petrol € 1.10<br />

Taxi ride across town € 5.00<br />

Fine for parking illegally € 40<br />

February - March 2011<br />

9


10 history<br />

Many of Ljubljana’s streets are named for major European cultural figures, such as Beethoven<br />

Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known<br />

today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known<br />

to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC<br />

when the Celts started arriving.<br />

Roman times<br />

With the expan<strong>si</strong>on of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the<br />

establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of<br />

the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in<br />

today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time,<br />

Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD,<br />

and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other<br />

early Germanic tribes.<br />

Medieval Ljubljana<br />

Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily<br />

Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and<br />

Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands<br />

during the first few hundred years of this period and the ba<strong>si</strong>c<br />

shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out.<br />

16th to 18th Centuries<br />

Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued<br />

Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in<br />

1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511<br />

and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style.<br />

19th Century<br />

Napoleon vi<strong>si</strong>ts the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the<br />

Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part<br />

of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th<br />

century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first<br />

college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form<br />

it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted<br />

by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city<br />

is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost<br />

completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town<br />

is preserved practically intact.<br />

Between the wars<br />

After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia<br />

becomes part of the State, and then the Kingdom of<br />

the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918,<br />

which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia<br />

in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (1872-<br />

1957) builds many of his most important buildings in the<br />

capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied<br />

by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII.<br />

In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born<br />

in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic<br />

of Yugoslavia.<br />

Socialism & Yugoslavia<br />

Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of<br />

the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of<br />

1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppres<strong>si</strong>ve. Yugoslavs<br />

enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of<br />

the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the<br />

afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity<br />

doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as<br />

the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes<br />

the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia,<br />

officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the<br />

population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on<br />

December 23, 1990.<br />

Independence & Beyond<br />

After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as<br />

the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination<br />

of nationalist pride and bu<strong>si</strong>ness acumen keeps much of<br />

the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the<br />

UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several<br />

weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar,<br />

is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of<br />

the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen<br />

countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU pre<strong>si</strong>dency<br />

for half a year.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter<br />

alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian,<br />

and also shares many words with other Slavic languages.<br />

Although some words and letter combinations may appear<br />

unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly<br />

phonetic language with very few irregularities - although<br />

the letters L and V can do some strange things depending<br />

on their po<strong>si</strong>tion in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak<br />

either English, Italian or German embarras<strong>si</strong>ngly well,<br />

so chances are you won’t have to worry about any communication<br />

problems. However, as with most countries,<br />

attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go<br />

a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd<br />

‘hvala’ and ‘pro<strong>si</strong>m’ won’t go unnoticed.<br />

Pronunciation<br />

c - as in pizza<br />

e - as in egg<br />

j - like y in yogurt<br />

č - like c in cello<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

š - like sh in ship<br />

ž - like s in pleasure<br />

Ba<strong>si</strong>cs<br />

Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay<br />

Ahn-GLESH-ko) ?<br />

I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm)<br />

Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahn-<br />

EESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)?<br />

Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh)<br />

Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn)<br />

Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch)<br />

Yes - Ja (Yah)<br />

No - Ne (Nay)<br />

Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh)<br />

Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a)<br />

Please - Pro<strong>si</strong>m (PRO-seem)<br />

Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay)<br />

Pardon me (asking for help) – Pro<strong>si</strong>m (pro-SEEM)<br />

My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ...<br />

LAnguAge<br />

I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...<br />

Questions<br />

Who? - Kdo?(K-doh)<br />

What? - Kaj?(Kai)<br />

Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay)<br />

When? - Kdaj (K-dai)<br />

How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)?<br />

Signs<br />

Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh)<br />

Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)<br />

Entrance - vhod (oo-hod)<br />

Exit - izhod (eez-hod)<br />

Push – rini (ree-nee)<br />

Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee)<br />

Travelling<br />

Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze)<br />

Train - vlak (v-LOCK)<br />

I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ...<br />

One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, pro<strong>si</strong>m (Eh-noh oo-stop-<br />

NEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)<br />

Bar Talk<br />

One coffee, please - Eno kavo pro<strong>si</strong>m (EH-noh KAH-voh<br />

pro-SEEM)<br />

One beer, please - (Name of beer), pro<strong>si</strong>m (pro-SEEM)<br />

Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!<br />

What’s going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya)<br />

Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo)<br />

You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh<br />

oh-chee)<br />

You’re hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa)<br />

Where are you from? - Iz kje <strong>si</strong>? (iz kye see)<br />

Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko<br />

številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko<br />

shteh-VEEL-koh)?<br />

See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)<br />

Learn Slovene Sponsored by: www.veris.<strong>si</strong><br />

NOUNS AND CASES<br />

Nouns in Slovene language have different forms according to 6 grammatical cases. The use<br />

of a certain form depends on the rest of the sentence, especially on the verb. For example:<br />

Case Example Example Sentence<br />

(m.<strong>si</strong>ng.) (fem.<strong>si</strong>ng.)<br />

Nominative<br />

Genitive<br />

Dative<br />

Accusative<br />

Locative<br />

Instrumental<br />

prijatelj<br />

prijatelja<br />

prijatelju<br />

prijatelja<br />

prijatelju<br />

prijateljem<br />

prijateljica<br />

prijateljice<br />

prijateljici<br />

prijateljico<br />

prijateljici<br />

prijateljico<br />

Prijatelj / prijateljica ima rojstni dan.<br />

A friend has birthday.<br />

Ne vidim prijatelja / prijateljice.<br />

I don't see a friend.<br />

Prijatelju / prijateljici dam žogo.<br />

I give a ball to a friend.<br />

Prijatelja / prijateljico povabim domov.<br />

I invite a friend home.<br />

Pogovarjam se o prijatelju / o prijateljici.<br />

I talk about a friend.<br />

Pogovarjam se s prijateljem / s prijateljico.<br />

I talk to a friend.<br />

The majority of nouns follow the same pattern but there are also many<br />

exceptions that should be taught by heart.<br />

language studio<br />

February - March 2011<br />

11


12 CuLture & events<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic celebrates one-time Ljubljana re<strong>si</strong>dent Gustav Mahler’s 150th birthday with a series of<br />

concerts throughout the year, photo courtesy of budafest.wordpress.com<br />

MUSIC<br />

Pennywise<br />

7 February 2011<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

Laura Young<br />

9 February 2011<br />

Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

The Young Gods<br />

10 February 2011<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

Elektroliza.21<br />

12 February 2011<br />

Channel Zero (Metelkova)<br />

Budapest Gypsy<br />

Symphony Orchestra<br />

12 February<br />

Centre Stožice<br />

Bee Gees<br />

14 February 2011<br />

Centre Stožice<br />

Jo<strong>si</strong>pa Lisac<br />

15 February 2011<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

Nashville Pussy<br />

17 February 2011<br />

Orto Bar<br />

Easy All-Stars<br />

18 Febtruary 2011<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

Jes<strong>si</strong>ca 6<br />

20 February 2011<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

Apocalyptica<br />

22 February 2011<br />

Cvetličarna<br />

Sonata Arctica<br />

26 February 2011<br />

Cvetličarna<br />

Venetian Snares<br />

2 March 2011<br />

Channel Zero<br />

(Metelkova)<br />

Mulatu Atstake<br />

11 March 2011<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

Vaya Con Dios<br />

12 March 2011<br />

Hala Tivoli<br />

Sabaton<br />

14 March 2011<br />

Cvetličarna<br />

Tartini String Quartet<br />

23 March 2011<br />

Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

Paganfest 2011<br />

23 March 2011<br />

Cvetličarna<br />

Gilberto Gil<br />

8 April 2011<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

Bonobo<br />

10 April 2011<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

Prešeren Day<br />

08.02 Tuesday<br />

Being the finest poet in the Slovenian language and undisputed<br />

national hero, is of course enough to earn you a<br />

permanent place in the calender. The Slovenian Cultural<br />

Holiday, or Prešernov Dan (Prešeren’s Day) to the locals,<br />

means that the 8th of February is a non-working day. This<br />

national holiday sees many museums in Ljubljana open<br />

their doors for free. The Prešeren Awards and Prešeren<br />

Foundation Awards give the highest Slovenian recognition<br />

for scientific and cultural achievement. The old city of<br />

Kranj, in the great man’s native region (Gorenjska), leads<br />

the celebrations with a street festival in his honour.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


14 CuLture & events<br />

See Antonín Dvorak’s masterpiece Rusalka performed<br />

nightly at Cankarjev Dom from 27 Jan - 4 Feb<br />

Special Events<br />

04.01 Tuesday - 07.07 Thursday<br />

Remote Culture Festival: Visages of Brazil<br />

Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. This<br />

spring, the Cankarjev dom cultural and congress centre<br />

will host a series of events dedicated to Brazilian<br />

culture. The events, held as part of the annual Remote<br />

Culture Festival, will feature Brazilian artists of different<br />

disciplines.<br />

The festival will host several mu<strong>si</strong>c artists including, among<br />

others, Gilberto Gil, Adriana Calcanhotto, and the idiosyncratic<br />

body percus<strong>si</strong>on group Barbatuques, who perform mu<strong>si</strong>c u<strong>si</strong>ng<br />

exclu<strong>si</strong>vely the human body as an instrument.<br />

The festival programme also includes retrospective screenings<br />

of Brazilian films, a performance by the Coletivo improviso<br />

theatre group, an exhibition of photographs by Caio Reisewitz,<br />

famous for his outstanding images of São Paulo, and a number<br />

of other events.<br />

27.01 Thursday - 04.02 Friday<br />

Antonín Dvorak: Rusalka<br />

Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. The opera<br />

Rusalka by the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904)<br />

is con<strong>si</strong>dered to be not only the composer’s most popular<br />

work, but also one of the best Late Romantic operas. Dvořák’s<br />

mu<strong>si</strong>cal fairy tale, a successful fu<strong>si</strong>on of elements from the<br />

world of fairy tales and the real world in a story about the love<br />

between a human prince and a rusalka, a mythological water<br />

nymph, is marked by a richly melodious score and colourful<br />

atmosphere. Q (€15-30).<br />

28.01 Friday - 29.01 Saturday<br />

Panč Stand-Up Comedy Festival<br />

L-2, Cvetličarna, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) 1 430 42 58,<br />

info@festivalstandupkomedije.<strong>si</strong>, www.festivalstandupkomedije.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Now in its third year, the Panč Stand-Up Comedy<br />

Festival will take place in both Ljubljana and Maribor the last<br />

weekend of January, with a line-up of international and Slovene<br />

Mahler In Ljubljana<br />

18.10 Monday - 21.05 Saturday<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic, Kongresni Trg 10. The<br />

concert cycle Mahler in Ljubljana is dedicated to the<br />

150th birth anniversary of Gustav Mahler, who worked in<br />

Ljubljana as a conductor in the 1881-1882 season. The<br />

concerts, featuring chamber and symphony works, will be<br />

held in the building of the Slovenian Philharmonic, one of<br />

the world’s oldest institutions of the kind.<br />

It was at Ljubljana’s Provincial Theatre that the 21-year-old<br />

Gustav Mahler “learnt his trade” as a conductor. It was<br />

only later that he became a renowned conductor and rose<br />

to fame as one of the greatest European composers.<br />

The concert cycle marking Mahler’s birth anniversary will<br />

be accompanied by a serious of other events, including<br />

a sympo<strong>si</strong>um and an exhibition dedicated to Mahler.<br />

Q €8-12<br />

comedians - with Carly Smallman and Tom Allen hailing from<br />

Britain, Vlatko Štampar and Goran Furjan from Croatia, and<br />

Mladen Pahović, Tin Vodopivec Clement Bučan, Janez Trontelj,<br />

Claudia Vlaj and Mirza Tvrtković from Slovenia. Tickets are<br />

€11, and can be purchased at a variety of outlets, including<br />

online at Eventim.<br />

Exhibitions<br />

25.11 Thursday - 13.02 Sunday<br />

Themes of Antiquity in the work of Francesco<br />

Kavčič/Caucig<br />

National Gallery, Prešernova 24. Themes of Antiquity were<br />

central to the work of the Slovenian clas<strong>si</strong>cal painter Franc<br />

Kavčič/Caucig (1755-1828), who often based his paintings<br />

on lesser known or long-forgotten tales from Antiquity. The<br />

National Gallery exhibition of Kavčič ‘s work is divided into<br />

four sections: Greek and Roman Myths, The Tales of Homer<br />

and Related Themes, The Tales of Antiquity, and Scenes<br />

from Ancient History.<br />

22.12 Wednesday - 28.02 Monday<br />

This Is All Film! Experimental Film in Former<br />

Yugoslavia, 1951-1991<br />

Museum of Modern Art, Cankarjeva 15. The exhibition This<br />

Is All Film! provides a comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve in<strong>si</strong>ght into former Yugoslav<br />

experimental cinema, which is diverse and has con<strong>si</strong>derable<br />

artistic merit, but is little known to the general public.<br />

Experimental film production on the territory of the former<br />

Yugoslavia has been overlooked <strong>si</strong>nce the time when it first<br />

emerged, because as a rule it derived from the tradition of the<br />

so called amateur film, produced mainly as part of the activities<br />

of the numerous cinema clubs which flourished in the major<br />

cities of the former federation.<br />

Apart from showca<strong>si</strong>ng experimental film from across the<br />

former Yugoslavia, the exhibition attempts to present some<br />

of the overlooked areas of Slovenian cinema, including avantgarde,<br />

alternative and amateur film practices, highlighting their<br />

innovative character at the time when they first sprang up.<br />

17.03 Thursday - 25.08 Thursday<br />

Toulouse-Latrec: A Master of Poster Art<br />

Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. The<br />

exhibition Toulouse-Lautrec: A Master of Poster Art brings<br />

together original posters by the famous French painter and<br />

print artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and a selection of<br />

works by renowned contemporary graphic de<strong>si</strong>gners created<br />

in homage to Toulouse-Lautrec on the centenary of his<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Pokal Vitranc Ski World Cup 2011<br />

03.03 Thursday - 06.03 Sunday<br />

www.pokal-vitranc.com. Attracting big brand sponsorship<br />

and winter sports enthu<strong>si</strong>asts in their thousands, the<br />

slopes at the Vitanc mountain range in Kranjska Gora<br />

come alive in March this year during the 50th Audi FIS<br />

Ski World Cup competition. Surely to be watched closely,<br />

expect big snow and even bigger parties. As for the races,<br />

tickets bought on the day start from €10 (adults) and €8<br />

(children) for the standing area.<br />

death. Toulouse-Lautrec’s outstanding graphic solutions still<br />

resonate in print art today. His original works are therefore<br />

exhibited along with a selection of the best posters created<br />

by one hundred international graphic de<strong>si</strong>gners for the 2001<br />

Nouveau Salon des Cents, an exhibition organized in memory<br />

of the 100th anniversary of Toulouse-Lautrec’s death. Exhibiting<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gners include such famous names as Milton Glaser,<br />

Mieczyslaw Gorowski, and Kari Pippo.<br />

Cinemas<br />

Foreign films are screened in the original language with<br />

Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are<br />

usually dubbed. A<strong>si</strong>de from the largest blockbusters, films<br />

tend to open with <strong>si</strong>gnificant lag with respect to larger<br />

markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters adverti<strong>si</strong>ng<br />

something realeased months earlier in you own country.<br />

Tickets cost approximately €5.<br />

Kino Dvor D-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22<br />

13, info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org.<br />

Kinoklub Vič A/B-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad<br />

6, tel. (+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.<strong>si</strong>. Recently<br />

renovated, this is a charming cinema to vi<strong>si</strong>t for a mix of<br />

Hollywood and other films.<br />

Kinoteka D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 15 47 15<br />

80, www.kinoteka.<strong>si</strong>. The place for non-Hollywood, art<br />

house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken<br />

language beforehand.<br />

Ethiopian great Mulatu Astatke returns to Ljubljana for a<br />

concert at Kino Siska on 11 March.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CuLture & events<br />

An exhaustive survey of prints by everyone’s favourite late<br />

19th century debaucherous, ab<strong>si</strong>nthe-swilling midget, Henri<br />

de Toulouse-Latrec, is on display at Cankarjev Dom from 17<br />

March.<br />

Kolosej N-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 20 55 00,<br />

www.kolosej.<strong>si</strong>. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular<br />

films in<strong>si</strong>de the BTC shopping area.<br />

Concert Halls<br />

Festivalna Dvorana K-2/3, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386)<br />

12 34 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.<strong>si</strong>, www.pionirskidom.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

A large concert and event hall built by none other<br />

than local lad Plečnik.<br />

Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17<br />

063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As<br />

the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally<br />

renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an<br />

eclectic range of performances several times per week,<br />

including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club<br />

on other nights. The state of the art sound system and<br />

acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and<br />

audiences. Regular shows include Rapetek (hip hop shows<br />

the last Friday of every month), Zeleno sonce (funk concerts<br />

the first Friday of every month), Kapa records festivals (shows<br />

February - March 2011<br />

15


16 CuLture & events<br />

by artists <strong>si</strong>gned to the venue’s own label), Dub Club (electrodub<br />

nights), Pozor! Nov bend na vidku! and Domorodni četrtki<br />

(featuring up and coming international and Slovene bands<br />

respectively). From May till October a summer stage and<br />

garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can<br />

accommodate nearly 1000 people.<br />

Hala Tivoli A/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430<br />

67 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.<strong>si</strong>, www.zavodtivoli.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Križanke C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. (+386)<br />

12 41 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with great accoustics<br />

for various summertime concerts and events.<br />

Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) C-4,<br />

Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@filharmonija.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.filharmonija.<strong>si</strong>. A century old in 2008,<br />

the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly<br />

with Lebanese-born chief conductor George Pehlivanian<br />

and various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />

Planica 2011<br />

17.03 Thursday - 20.03 Sunday<br />

Rateče, tel. (+386) 1 513 68 06, info@planica.info,<br />

www.planica.<strong>si</strong>. Home to the annual FIS ski flying world<br />

cup event, the backdrop of the Planica valley is magnificent.<br />

Awesome rugged peaks tower all around; formed<br />

by the Planica glacier some 20,000 years ago. The jump<br />

itself comprises a fearsomely large and heart stoppingly<br />

steep slope, stuff only for profes<strong>si</strong>onal ski fliers, or the<br />

clinically insane. The current world record (239m) is held<br />

by one of the former, Norwegian Bjørn Einar Romøren,<br />

and was contested by a Finn, Janne Ahonen, whose<br />

240m flight ended with a fall - 2005 was apparently a<br />

great year for breaking records here. Every year Planica<br />

is prepared for the onslaught of thousands spectators<br />

in March. Being amongst 2000m+ alpine peaks, it is<br />

the only kind of setting worthy of such an internationally<br />

prestigious ski event.<br />

photo by Tsutomu Takasu<br />

Cultural Centres<br />

Cankarjev Dom B-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 12<br />

41 71 00, info@cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>, www.cd-cc.<strong>si</strong>. This complex<br />

from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre,<br />

dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.<br />

Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) J-2, Trg Prekomorskih<br />

Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 31 01 00, info@<br />

kino<strong>si</strong>ska.<strong>si</strong>, www.kino<strong>si</strong>ska.<strong>si</strong>. After nearly a year of<br />

renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its<br />

doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several<br />

state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces.<br />

Dedicated to promoting contemporary mu<strong>si</strong>c, theatre, dance<br />

and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional<br />

and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around<br />

200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest<br />

multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over<br />

800 people. Check out their English language web<strong>si</strong>te for<br />

more info and a full schedule of events.<br />

KUD France Prešeren K-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386)<br />

12 83 22 88, kud@kud-fp.<strong>si</strong>, www.kud-fp.<strong>si</strong>. A venue for<br />

concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.<br />

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre)<br />

F-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s<br />

famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which<br />

play thrash style mu<strong>si</strong>c to a dreadlocked black-clad audience<br />

of all ages. Unfortunately little of the web<strong>si</strong>te is in English so<br />

it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for<br />

sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative<br />

to the dance mu<strong>si</strong>c found in most other clubs and attracts<br />

a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in nonjudgmental<br />

than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you<br />

<strong>si</strong>p your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for<br />

the philosophy behind the whole set-up.<br />

Galleries<br />

Equrna C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23,<br />

equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.<strong>si</strong>. Modern art in an<br />

elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 13:00. No admis<strong>si</strong>on.<br />

Galerija Kre<strong>si</strong>ja D-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 13<br />

06 11 71. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 13:00.<br />

Ganes Pratt C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16<br />

33/(+386) 1251 16 34, info@ganes.<strong>si</strong>, www.ganes.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna) features<br />

some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) D-3/4, Mestni Trg<br />

5, tel. (+386) 1241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@<strong>si</strong>ol.net,<br />

www.mestna-galerija.<strong>si</strong>. The largest fine art exhibition<br />

space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. QOpen 10:00 -<br />

18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Photon E-3, Križevniška 10, tel. (+386) 12 30 20 71,<br />

dejan@photon.<strong>si</strong>, www.photon.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Škuc Gallery D-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421<br />

31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.<strong>si</strong>. One of the cities<br />

most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous<br />

culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring<br />

some oft he most important people in contemporary<br />

art from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CuLture & events<br />

February - March 2011<br />

17


18 CuLture & events<br />

Theatres<br />

City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)<br />

C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.mgl.<strong>si</strong>. The MGL has two stages that are the home of<br />

modern, progres<strong>si</strong>ve drama <strong>si</strong>nce the Yugoslav era. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Kavarna Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308<br />

17 63, www.gh-union.<strong>si</strong>. The stage of the Kavarna Union<br />

coffee house, in<strong>si</strong>de the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 -<br />

20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče<br />

Drama) C-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11,<br />

drama@drama.<strong>si</strong>, www.drama.<strong>si</strong>. With its roots reaching<br />

back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays<br />

from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime,<br />

Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed.<br />

Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) D/E-3,<br />

Krekov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.<strong>si</strong>. Taking<br />

as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th<br />

century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over<br />

500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative mu<strong>si</strong>c,<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gn and other forms. It’s respon<strong>si</strong>ble for keeping scores<br />

of children entertained and amused every week. Keep an eye<br />

out for the mu<strong>si</strong>cal puppets that come out of the small tower<br />

on the roof of the building on the hour. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday<br />

to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00,<br />

and during the hour prior to each performance.<br />

Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre C-3,<br />

Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@<br />

opera.<strong>si</strong>, www.opera.<strong>si</strong>. A beautiful neo-Renaissence<br />

theatre in the city centre that’s used for various clas<strong>si</strong>cal<br />

performances. Its lengthy renovations and expan<strong>si</strong>on<br />

finally seem to be nearing an end, with a reopening scheduled<br />

for the spring. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />

Sun.<br />

Slovenska Mladinska Gledališče E-1, Vilharjeva<br />

11, tel. (+386) 1 425 33 12, info@mladinskogl.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

en.mladinsko.com.Q Main box office at Trg<br />

Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30,<br />

Sat 10:00-13:00.<br />

Buy Tickets<br />

Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance<br />

at the venue, or from ticket agencies.<br />

ESITI I/J-4, Cesta na Brdo 17, tel. (+386) 12 57 29<br />

06, podpora@e<strong>si</strong>ti.com, www.mojekarte.<strong>si</strong>. Q To<br />

31 May: 10:00-19:00. From 1 June: 8:00-22:00<br />

Eventim B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 14 30 24<br />

05, info@eventim.<strong>si</strong>, www.eventim.<strong>si</strong>/portal/en.<br />

Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per<br />

year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events<br />

across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer<br />

of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in<br />

Slovenia.<br />

Tourist Information Centre D-3, Adamič-<br />

Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, tic@<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. The helpful<br />

staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can<br />

answer pretty much any question you have about the city,<br />

provide you with maps and countless other brochures,<br />

and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various<br />

other events. Q Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-<br />

September 08:00-21:00. 22 December 2009 - 2 January<br />

2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Enjoy the perfect skiing weather on the sunny <strong>si</strong>de of the Alps!<br />

Slovenia’s best ski resorts<br />

Winter school holidays are fast approaching, and so is<br />

peak ski season in Slovenia. With countless options all<br />

within a short drive of Ljubljana, we want to know where<br />

your favourite places to ski in Slovenia are. We’ve narrowed<br />

the choices down and divided them into three<br />

categories, but it’s up to our readers to decide now - with<br />

the results published in our April/May guide! See our<br />

web<strong>si</strong>te or Facebook page for more details..<br />

Kranjska Gora Tel. (+386) 45 80 94 40, info@kranjskagora.eu,<br />

www.kranjska-gora.<strong>si</strong>. Con<strong>si</strong>dered the premier ski<br />

resort in Slovenia, Kranjska Gora (800-1210m) is a favourite<br />

haunt for rich Slovenes, Croatians and ‘western Europeans’<br />

alike. You won’t find the most challenging runs here, but it is<br />

excellent for beginners and intermediate skiers. If you need<br />

more speed to get the adrenaline pumping, the World Cup slope<br />

in nearby Podkoren is sure to do the trick. Cross-country skiers<br />

can take advantage of a beautiful trail, made where the train<br />

tracks used to lie, at the bottom of the valley. The slopes are<br />

spread along the Vitranc mountain ridge from Kranjska Gora all<br />

the way to Planica, and are served by 6 chairlifts and 12 drag<br />

lifts. In the far north west of Slovenia, take the A2 from Ljubljana<br />

then go left at Jesenice, 1hour 20 minutes by car.<br />

Krvavec Grad 76, Cerklje na Gorenjskem, tel. (+386)<br />

42 52 59 30, info@rtc-krvavec.<strong>si</strong>, www.rtc-krvavec.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Voted the best Slovene ski resort the last three years running,<br />

its huge popularity (capacity: 13,700 skiers/hour) is<br />

partly by virtue of its proximity to Ljubljana, just 45 minutes<br />

by car. Of course the views are spectacular (1450-1971m),<br />

and the piste breathtaking, literally with 23km of medium<br />

to demanding slopes. For beginners and families there’s a<br />

ski school, large equipment rental facility and 7km of easy<br />

slopes. For everyone, there are lots of accommodation options<br />

available on the mountain (book early) - and 100 days<br />

of guaranteed skiing per year (90% artificial snow coverage).<br />

Slovenia’s flagship ski destination. Head northbound on the<br />

A2 from Ljubljana, once out in the country<strong>si</strong>de it’s <strong>si</strong>gnposted<br />

from the motorway, near Kranj. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Prices<br />

for 1 day lift pass: €28 adults, €24 students/seniors/youths,<br />

€16 kids. Rentals from €15 per day for standard equipment.<br />

Other packages are available.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ski Centres<br />

Maribor Pohorje Mladinska 29, tel. (+386) 26 03 65<br />

57, info.vzp@sk-branik.<strong>si</strong>, www.pohorje.org. Pohorje, the<br />

biggest ski centre in Slovenia, entertains everyone from beginners<br />

to advanced skiers and boarders. With 41.5 km of varied<br />

and well-kept piste, it’s non-stop fun for friends and families<br />

alike. The customary ski/board school will launch you up to<br />

the more challenging runs soon enough, but if it’s exercise<br />

and scenery you’re after, there are 27km of cross country<br />

trails. We love the location, right be<strong>si</strong>de Slovenia’s second<br />

city, Maribor; explaining why it attracts so many Austrians<br />

and Croatians every year. It’s a relatively rare urban and ski<br />

experience in one. Pohorje is accessed by way of 5 chairlifts,<br />

16 ski-lifts and a gondola, the latter even being reachable by<br />

Maribor city bus. If you happen to have a car, Maribor is one<br />

and a half hours east from Ljubljana on the A1 motorway.<br />

Otherwise take a train then catch a city bus.<br />

Velika Planina Kamniška Bistrica 2, Stahovica, tel.<br />

+386 18 32 72 58/+386 18 31 29 81, info@velikaplanina.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.velikaplanina.<strong>si</strong>. Sitting near Kamnik, a<br />

typically picturesque Slovenian town, is the lower station of<br />

the cable car which carries you to a vast mountain plateau:<br />

Velika Planina. Perched on the open alpine plains is a herdsmen’s<br />

settlement, with its quirky architecture, <strong>si</strong>mple way of<br />

life, and traditionally made dairy products. If the mysterious<br />

spirit of the place is lost on the kids, at least they’ll have a<br />

great time on the snowy playground, ski-lift Jurček or the free<br />

kindergarten here every weekend (11:00-13:00). In terms of<br />

skiing, Velika Planina is perfect for families and beginners, to<br />

intermediate skiers also interested in a cultural experience.<br />

6km of slopes (mostly medium difficulty) are served by 6 ski<br />

lifts and rise from 1412-1666m. Winter at Velika Planina holds<br />

plenty of other opportunities to be active on the snow: sledging,<br />

walking, hiking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.<br />

To get there, head north-east from Ljubljana towards Mengeš<br />

and Kamnik, then continue north through Kamnik following<br />

<strong>si</strong>gns for Kamniška Bistrica and Velika Planina.<br />

Check out the rest of Slovenia’s<br />

ski resorts online at<br />

www.inyourpocket.com/<br />

slovenia/ljubljana/Ski-and-Spa<br />

February - March 2011<br />

19


20 where to stAy<br />

Weekend package<br />

in Ljubljana<br />

S p e nd so me wo n d e rfu l<br />

d a ys a t M o ns H o t e l .<br />

• Two overnights<br />

•<br />

• Welcome drink<br />

•<br />

• Free use of internet<br />

• Free return shuttle to Ljubljana<br />

historical city centre<br />

• Free parking<br />

Package price:<br />

per person<br />

in a double room<br />

HOTEL AND CONGRESS CENTRE <strong>LJUBLJANA</strong><br />

For INFO & RESERVATIONS please contact<br />

Phone: +386 1 470 27 05<br />

E-mail: info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

MONS Hotel and Congress Centre,<br />

Pot za Brdom 4, SI–1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia<br />

COUPON<br />

Receive a 10 % discount with this coupon.<br />

The o�er is valid till 31th May 2011.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

H Conference facilities T Child friendly<br />

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre<br />

L Guarded parking R Internet<br />

G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant<br />

D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

Over €170<br />

NEW<br />

Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa C-4, Vegova 5a, tel. (+386)<br />

838 96 700, fax (+386) 838 06 790, sales@antiqpalace.<br />

com, www.antiqpalace.com. With the opening of Antiq<br />

Palace & Spa (the <strong>si</strong>ster property of Antiq, which was recently<br />

crowned the city’s best hotel), Ljubljana finally has a top end<br />

boutique hotel on par with any other in the world in terms of<br />

luxury, service and history. In fact, calling it a <strong>si</strong>mply a ‘hotel’ is<br />

misleading, as it is truly a palace in every sense of the word. The<br />

sprawling 16th century building was a former noble re<strong>si</strong>dence<br />

and has been painstakingly restored to its original splendour.<br />

Its 13 fully-equipped and beautifully furnished re<strong>si</strong>dential suites<br />

range in <strong>si</strong>ze from 100 to 250m², and several unique spaces are<br />

available for bu<strong>si</strong>ness meetings, conferences and other events.<br />

The premises also include luxurious and intimate spa facilities,<br />

where guests can indulge themselves with the finest treatments<br />

and then unwind in a Jacuzzi, sauna or steam room.Q 13 suites<br />

(<strong>si</strong>ngles €115-240, doubles €275-330, duplex re<strong>si</strong>dence €550).<br />

PTJHARUIFLEDXW<br />

Grand Hotel Union Bu<strong>si</strong>ness D-3, Miklošičeva 3,<br />

tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel.<br />

bu<strong>si</strong>ness@gh-union.<strong>si</strong>, www.gh-union.<strong>si</strong>. Attached to its<br />

<strong>si</strong>bling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the<br />

facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms<br />

and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to<br />

put off the serious male bu<strong>si</strong>ness traveller. Shared facilities<br />

include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms,<br />

secure parking and the plea<strong>si</strong>ng fact that the best <strong>si</strong>ghts and<br />

leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Q 327 rooms<br />

(<strong>si</strong>ngles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446).<br />

PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />

Grand Hotel Union Executive D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel.<br />

(+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.<strong>si</strong>, www.ghunion.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the<br />

Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully<br />

decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely<br />

old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of<br />

facilities for both bu<strong>si</strong>ness and leisure. Extras include two decent<br />

restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent<br />

gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts<br />

the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327<br />

rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546).<br />

PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />

Hotel Listings Policy<br />

Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical<br />

order within that band. The price band refers<br />

to the rack rate for a double room.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

2 del oglas hotel mons_in your pocket sept2010.indd 1 16.9.2010 14:28:50


Lesar Hotel Angel D-4, Gornji Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1 42 55<br />

089/(+386) 5 911 96 80, fax (+386) 1 42 55 090, info@<br />

angelhotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.angelhotel.<strong>si</strong>. With the Lesar opening its<br />

doors on the first of the year, it’s apparent that Gornji Trg has become<br />

the address of choice for Ljubljana’s boutique hotels. Owned<br />

by the same folks who run the exqui<strong>si</strong>te Pri Vitezu restaurant, the<br />

hotel is housed in a beautifully restored villa at the foot of the<br />

castle and is an exercise in elegance and luxury. A labyrinth of<br />

hallways and stairs leads to a total of twelve unique rooms, and<br />

the premises, which include a lounge, bar, several terraces and<br />

a 500m² garden, also double as a showroom with most of the<br />

furnishings available for purchase. A <strong>si</strong>zeable 30 percent discount<br />

is also being offered on all rooms until 1 May 2010. Q 12 rooms<br />

(5 doubles €120-150, 7 suites €170-450).<br />

Lev C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 21 55, info@<br />

hotel-lev.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotel-lev.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel<br />

started bu<strong>si</strong>ness in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed<br />

to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie,<br />

Kirk Douglas and Sting in its time. A glistening marble lobby<br />

serves as a fine overture to over 170 high quality, air-conditioned<br />

rooms from <strong>si</strong>ngles through to some exceedingly posh<br />

suites, all complete with facilities including soundproof windows,<br />

cable televi<strong>si</strong>on and a choice of internet connections.<br />

Extras include popularbu<strong>si</strong>ness and conference services, a<br />

restaurant speciali<strong>si</strong>ng in some fine Mediterranean dishes<br />

and a large gambling hall in the basement Q 173 rooms<br />

(<strong>si</strong>ngles €200, doubles €240, bu<strong>si</strong>ness rooms €250, suites<br />

€300). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh<br />

Mons H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00,<br />

fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>. Along the highway to the west of the city<br />

and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

where to stAy<br />

and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed.<br />

From the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed,<br />

Mons markets itself as the country’s first de<strong>si</strong>gner hotel)<br />

to the glorious rooms, this place really is just what the<br />

doctor ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym<br />

and sauna. The congress facilities are state of the art.<br />

Q 110 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €112-210), doubles €137-235,<br />

suites €257-355). PTHAR6FLGKDXW<br />

hhhh<br />

€100-170<br />

Allegro D-4, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/(+386)<br />

41 557 908, info@allegrohotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.allegrohotel.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy<br />

boutique hotel, but semantics a<strong>si</strong>de there’s a lot to like. The<br />

12 individually de<strong>si</strong>gned rooms each feature a different colour<br />

scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent,<br />

along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings.<br />

Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including<br />

a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room in<br />

the cellar that could ea<strong>si</strong>ly be mistaken for a restaurant. Q 12<br />

rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €95-115, doubles €130-150). PJARBW<br />

hhhh<br />

Antiq D-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1421 35 60, fax<br />

(+386) 1421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.antiqhotel.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of<br />

rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming<br />

little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have<br />

been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden<br />

beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls<br />

and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small<br />

budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful<br />

February - March 2011<br />

21


22 where to stAy<br />

eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors<br />

come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent<br />

bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different,<br />

more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist<br />

furniture. Q 16 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €61-135, doubles €156-172,<br />

extra bed €48). PJAR6IGW hhhh<br />

Austria Trend L-1, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 15 88<br />

25 00, fax (+386) 15 88 25 99, ljubljana@austriatrend.at,<br />

www.austria-trend.at/lju. Near the ring road<br />

2km north of the city centre, this vast bu<strong>si</strong>ness class hotel<br />

provides high quality rooms in four different categories, plus<br />

a range of other excellent services and facilities including<br />

a wellness centre, conference rooms, restaurants, a fine<br />

cocktail bar and a fun oyster and sushi bar. Popular for<br />

both relaxing bu<strong>si</strong>ness stays as well as a variety of different<br />

functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better hotel<br />

of this type in the city. Q 214 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €100-125,<br />

doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225).<br />

POHAUFGKDXW<br />

Best Western Premier Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel.<br />

(+386) 1470 11 00, fax (+386) 1251 71 64, sales@<br />

hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the <strong>si</strong>te of the<br />

oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in<br />

the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury,<br />

from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest<br />

cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality;<br />

you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste<br />

everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-<br />

Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous<br />

service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you<br />

have one hell of a package. Q 171 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €75 - 134,<br />

doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335).<br />

PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh<br />

Central D-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1308 43 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

centralhotel.<strong>si</strong>. The clas<strong>si</strong>c four-star hotel experience, the<br />

Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city,<br />

but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared<br />

up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is<br />

crammed with the latest useful information about the city<br />

and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the<br />

summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either,<br />

and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value<br />

stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value<br />

accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €90-167,<br />

doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6F�<br />

GKDXCW hhhh<br />

City D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 1239 00 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1239 00 01, info@cityhotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.cityhotel.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. With a reception like a studio set for a children’s televi<strong>si</strong>on<br />

programme complete with bright colours and lots of<br />

comfortable furniture, the City Hotel provides a plea<strong>si</strong>ng<br />

atmosphere and lots of wonderful added extras for a most<br />

satisfactory stay in the city. A combination of standard and<br />

superior rooms with lots of plea<strong>si</strong>ng cream colours and<br />

hardwood floors in the latter, other goodies include free LAN<br />

internet in every room, a small library on the ground floor,<br />

and bicycle hire for the fitter section of the community. Q<br />

200 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €69-140, doubles €138-290, suites<br />

€373-888). PTJHAR6UILGKXW<br />

hhh<br />

More hotels online<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


24 where to stAy<br />

M Hotel J-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.<strong>si</strong>, www.m-hotel.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this<br />

fine, modern bu<strong>si</strong>ness class hotel comes with over 150<br />

well appointed rooms, all with cable televi<strong>si</strong>on, en suite<br />

bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extralength<br />

beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what<br />

you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car<br />

rental and a hairdresser. Q 154 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €61-135,<br />

doubles €77-168). PHAR6ULGKXW<br />

hhh<br />

€70-100<br />

Kavarna Maček Rooms D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this<br />

beautiful and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy<br />

of other travellers. These rooms are along the river and<br />

above the popular Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed<br />

in a tasteful modern style. The rooms are mostly <strong>si</strong>ngles<br />

and doubles for couples, but there’s also one larger apartment.<br />

In the morning, head down to the cafe for a coffee and<br />

breakfast and at night grab one last drink before heading up<br />

to your glorious temporary home. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30.<br />

5 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €55, doubles €96, apartment €112).<br />

PTJA6GBKS<br />

Stil O-4, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 15 48 43 43, hotel@<br />

hotel-stil.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotel-stil.<strong>si</strong>. Located in a quiet rural<br />

setting near the ring road on the eastern edge of the city,<br />

Stil is a convenient choice for those with their own transport<br />

who are looking to avoid the noise and activity of the city<br />

centre. The modern building houses a range of rooms and<br />

apartments, and there’s a large parking lot for guests. All<br />

facilities are air-conditioned and come with en suite bathrooms,<br />

mini-bars and wireless internet. Two seminar rooms<br />

are also available. Q 43 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €72, doubles €75-<br />

90, triples €108, apartments €90-170). PHARLG<br />

hhh<br />

Under €70<br />

Bit Center M-4, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 15 48 00 55,<br />

fax (+386) 15 48 00 56, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bitcenter.net.<br />

A combined hotel, sports centre and youth hostel<br />

10 minutes east of the centre, rooms are ba<strong>si</strong>c but clean,<br />

coming with en suite bathrooms facilities and cable televi<strong>si</strong>on<br />

in every room. Budget means budget here, so there are no<br />

fancy restaurants or bars, just a snack counter and little else.<br />

Sports facilities including badminton and squash courts, fitness<br />

centre and gym. The ‘Working Inn’ hostel option provides<br />

excellent value rooms that sleep up to 10 people with shared<br />

bathroom facilities. Q 39 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €34.50, doubles<br />

€46, triples €47.50, dorm beds €15). Breakfast (€3.50) not<br />

included. AGBKDW h<br />

Center C-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 15 20 06 40/<br />

(+386) 41 26 33 47, fax (+386) 15 20 06 44, info@<br />

hotelcenter.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotelcenter.<strong>si</strong>. Just opened last<br />

year, this eight-room family-run affair is hard to beat in terms<br />

of location and price. The rooms are a bit on the Spartan<br />

<strong>si</strong>de, but not without their own charm, owing in large part to<br />

the premises: a renovated 19th-century government building<br />

with high ceilings and splashes of exposed stonework. Run<br />

by the same people as Café Compañeros downstairs, there<br />

are often packages available - including free dinner and/or<br />

drinks - if you’re staying at least two nights and inquire about<br />

them in advance. Q 8 rooms (doubles €60-75).<br />

M hotel, Derčeva ulica 4, 1000 Ljubljana<br />

t: +386 1 513 7000, e: info@m-hotel.<strong>si</strong><br />

www.m-hotel.<strong>si</strong><br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


estaurant & pizzeria<br />

Mediteranean cui<strong>si</strong>ne<br />

and delicious pizzas<br />

Cesta na Brdo 33, Ljubljana<br />

+386 1 423 24 23<br />

e-mail: azur@telemach.net<br />

www.azur-tratorija.<strong>si</strong><br />

HOSTEL AZUR<br />

Cosy Hostel ideal for small groups<br />

- up to 20 people, located on top of<br />

a pizzeria in a green and peaceful area<br />

Cesta na Brdo 33, Ljubljana<br />

Sattnerjeva 2, Ljubljana<br />

+386 40 636 205<br />

e-mail: hostel.azur@gmail.com<br />

www.hostelbookers.com<br />

Restaurant and Rooms ***<br />

Tasty mediteranean cui<strong>si</strong>ne<br />

and comfortable guest rooms<br />

Cesta I / 26a Rožna dolina, Ljubljana<br />

restaurant: +386 01 386 1 422 88 40<br />

room booking: +386 41 673 783<br />

e-mail: katrca1905@gmal.com<br />

www.katrca.<strong>si</strong>


26 where to stAy<br />

One of the many <strong>si</strong>tting rooms at the newly opened Antiq<br />

Palace & Spa, photo by Žiga Koritnik<br />

Emonec C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1200 15 20,<br />

fax (+386) 1200 15 21, hotelemonec@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.<br />

hotel-emonec.com. This clean and slightly hidden hotel<br />

actually gives you front row seats to the city as it <strong>si</strong>ts<br />

right in<strong>si</strong>de the Prešernov trg area. The accomodations<br />

are sparse and while they have no restaurant there are no<br />

shortage of options as soon as you walk out of the door. A<br />

great choice for the traveller on a budget. Q 39 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles<br />

€59, doubles €67-77, triples €90, apartments €105).<br />

JHAR6UW hh<br />

Penzion Tavčar N-1, Cesta v Šmartno 7, tel. (+386)<br />

1 546 69 70, fax (+386) 1 546 69 90, penzion.<br />

tavcar@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.penzion-tavcar.com. Nestled<br />

between the winding river Sava and Šmartinska Cesta just<br />

out<strong>si</strong>de the ring road, Tavčar Guest House is far removed<br />

from the commotion of the city centre but still ea<strong>si</strong>ly acces<strong>si</strong>ble<br />

- with the BTC shopping centre within walking<br />

distance. The rooms are pleasantly, and many offer views<br />

of the surrounding country<strong>si</strong>de, while the restaurant offers<br />

tasty homemade food in a great leafy courtyard. Q<br />

12 rooms, 1 apartment (<strong>si</strong>ngles €55, doubles €65-75,<br />

apartment €95-140).<br />

Stari Tišler D-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430<br />

33 70, fax (+386) 1 430 33 75, info@stari-tisler.<br />

com, www.stari-tisler.com. Cheap and cheerful budget<br />

accommodation in a charming old building in the city<br />

centre. There are <strong>si</strong>x rooms, which you will find at the<br />

top of a glorious staircase, and which, while they share<br />

bathroom facilities, do come with televi<strong>si</strong>ons. The triples<br />

are great value. There’s a good breakfast included, which<br />

in the summer is served out<strong>si</strong>de in the courtyard, and an<br />

internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles €44, triples €66).<br />

PJALGBK<br />

Hostels<br />

Alibi D-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 12 51<br />

12 44, fax (+386) 12 51 12 45, info@alibi.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

alibi.<strong>si</strong>. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better located<br />

hostel in Ljubljana. Right in the heart of the centre of<br />

the city, Alibi is a hostel that is actually a lot bigger than<br />

it originally seems. In here you’ll find all types of room.<br />

You can choose how many people you want to share the<br />

room with depending on how much you enjoy snoring. All<br />

of them decorated in different graffiti motifs. The staff is<br />

super friendly and always at hand if you need something.<br />

Try to get the cooler rooms. One has a great balcony<br />

overlooking the river and there’s another one that’s a<br />

separate apartment on the top of the building. There’s<br />

a locked room next to it with metal doors that looks like<br />

a prison cell, but it actually adds to the atmosphere.<br />

Q Open 24 hours. 106 beds (double bed €20, four<br />

bed private €17, <strong>si</strong>x bed private €20, dormitory €17).<br />

PJAR6LEGW h<br />

Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205.<br />

Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and re<strong>si</strong>dential<br />

neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel<br />

occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant<br />

of the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The<br />

friendly owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the<br />

airport and train station, and will generally do what he can<br />

to make you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14<br />

stops right across the road and you can’t miss the bright<br />

orange building. However, there’s not always someone<br />

at reception so it’s a good idea to arrange your arrival in<br />

advance. Q 20 beds (11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13).<br />

ALK<br />

Celica F-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 12<br />

30 97 00, info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.<br />

com. Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding<br />

buildings close to the stations and the city centre<br />

started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian<br />

military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms<br />

have been kept almost as they were, providing a<br />

cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night<br />

behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as<br />

dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s<br />

even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of<br />

other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access,<br />

tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café<br />

serves an excellent value set lunch every day. Q 29<br />

rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per bed).<br />

PJHAR6ULGKW h<br />

Hostel Print J-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. (+386)<br />

51 387 111, info@hostelprint.com, hostelprint.com.<br />

Ljubljana’s newest hostel is actually more of a budget hotel as<br />

all accommodation is in <strong>si</strong>ngle, double and triple rooms, which<br />

are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made<br />

breakfasts are also included in the prince and ea<strong>si</strong>ly exceed<br />

what you get at most other budget options. However, the<br />

place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with<br />

several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen.<br />

Located in the student neighbourhood of Rožna Dolina, it’s<br />

a short walk to the centre or a quick ride on bus 14 (hop off<br />

oppo<strong>si</strong>te Mercator). Q 25 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €25, doubles €50,<br />

triples €66). PTRLGXW<br />

Vila Veselova B-3, Veselova 14, tel. (+386) 59 92<br />

67 21, desk@v-v.<strong>si</strong>, www.v-v.<strong>si</strong>. Owned by the same<br />

people who run the excellent Žmauc bar, this fairly new<br />

hostel in a lovely old villa in the western part of the city<br />

centre is aimed at the young travelling crowd who like to<br />

relax. Simply furnished with a range of rooms and dormitories,<br />

some with and some without en suite facilities<br />

and all named after a different colour, extras include nice<br />

big balconies and free internet. Q 8 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €28,<br />

4-bed dorms €22, 6-bed dorms €20, 8-bed dorms €17).<br />

JARLGW hh<br />

Read more online<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


HOTEL BOHINJ HOTEL ZLATOROG<br />

In the heart of the Triglav National Park, Bohinj offers truly<br />

special experiences each season. Set amidst the Julian<br />

Alps, in Spring and Summer you are welcomed by birdsong<br />

and rushing water, in Autumn by the colours of nature and in<br />

Winter by fabulous snowy landscapes. This oa<strong>si</strong>s of<br />

peaceand relaxation 20 km from Bled, allows everyone the<br />

chanceto enjoy their perfect holiday, with a swim in the lake,<br />

trekking along fantastic trails, canoeing, rafting, extreme<br />

sports, views from the Vogel cableway, three museums,<br />

horse riding on Icelandic horses, boat trips on the lake,<br />

spectacularwaterfalls and downhill and cross country skiing<br />

in the four ski centres nearby. Hospitality is guaranteed at<br />

the homelly Hotel Bohinj with its sauna, swimming pool and<br />

fitness area, at the clas<strong>si</strong>c Zlatorog with a swimming pool<br />

and sauna and at the Zlatorog Camp<strong>si</strong>te, equipped with<br />

everything you need: a king’s welcome in the kingdom of<br />

the goat with golden horns.


28 where to stAy<br />

Apartments<br />

Marta Studio J-4, Tržaška 24, tel. (+386) 5 9020 452,<br />

fax (+386) 5 9060 012, info@martastudio.eu, www.<br />

martastudio.eu. These three self-contained studios and<br />

one large 100m² apartment make are reasonably priced<br />

alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities,<br />

including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation<br />

is just a short 10 minutes walk from the city centre, or an<br />

even shorter bus ride. Restaurants, banks and a supermarket<br />

are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little<br />

more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is on the corner<br />

of Tržaška and Idrijska Streets Q (3 studios €45-55, 1 apartment<br />

€105-145). TA6L<br />

Tour AS D-2/3, Mala Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1434 26<br />

60, fax (+386) 1434 26 64, info@apartmaji.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

apartmaji.<strong>si</strong>. These are the people to talk to if you’re interested<br />

in renting an apartment during your stay in Ljubljana.<br />

From an office just a few minutes walk directly south of the<br />

main train and bus stations, they operate over 40 units of<br />

varying <strong>si</strong>zes located all around the city. On their web<strong>si</strong>te you<br />

can find incredibly detailed descriptions of each apartment<br />

from photos and floor plans to available amenities such as<br />

microwaves and dishwashers. They can also arrange day<br />

trips to just about everywhere in Slovenia. Q 40 apartments<br />

(€59-154). PTJAR6UL<br />

Around Ljubljana<br />

Penzion na Klancu Gorenjska 13, Medvode, tel. (+386)<br />

1 361 82 55/(+386) 31 673 068, fax (+386) 1 361 82<br />

56, info@naklancu.com, www.naklancu.com. For those<br />

who’d like to avoid the bustle of the city centre, but still have<br />

easy access to <strong>si</strong>ghts and activities in Ljubljana, this 100<br />

year-old but newly renovated guest house is perfectly <strong>si</strong>tuated<br />

in the town of Medvode some 11km from the capital.<br />

The spacious, smartly decorated rooms are complimented<br />

by an excellent restaurant, and the staff can recommend<br />

numerous activities and off the beaten path excur<strong>si</strong>ons in the<br />

surrounding country<strong>si</strong>de. Q 13 rooms (<strong>si</strong>ngles €49, doubles<br />

€69, triples €89). PALKW<br />

Zlatorog Ukanc 64, tel. (+386) 4 572 33 81. In the heart<br />

of the Triglav National Park, Bohinj offers a truly special experience.<br />

In Spring and Summer you are welcomed by birdsong<br />

and rushing water, in Autumn by the colours of nature and in<br />

Winter by fabulous snowy landscapes. This oa<strong>si</strong>s of peace<br />

and relaxation 20km from Bled, allows everyone the chance<br />

to enjoy a perfect holiday, with a swim in the lake, trekking<br />

along fantastic trails, canoeing, rafting, extreme sports, views<br />

from the Vogel cableway, three museums, horse riding on<br />

Icelandic horses, boat trips on the lake, spectacular waterfalls<br />

and downhill and cross country skiing in the four ski centres<br />

nearby. Q (<strong>si</strong>ngles €38-48, doubles €76-96).<br />

Couchsurfing<br />

Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are<br />

literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering<br />

their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors<br />

for free to fellow travellers. The <strong>si</strong>te, which combines social<br />

networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone<br />

interested in hanging out with locals and saving some<br />

cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss<br />

experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give<br />

you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective<br />

hosts. Info www.couchsurfing.org<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live mu<strong>si</strong>c S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R Internet L Guarded parking<br />

O Ca<strong>si</strong>no J Old Town location<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

B Out<strong>si</strong>de seating V Home delivery<br />

Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with<br />

new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. A<br />

couple of our current favourites include the always packed<br />

Luka Lunch Café and the exqui<strong>si</strong>te (but pricey) Pri Vitezu.<br />

Although more often than not these days eating out often<br />

means burek for us.<br />

Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who plan<br />

to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover that<br />

almost every street has at least one burek and pizza place<br />

on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not to be<br />

missed.<br />

The following reviews are by no means complete, but<br />

do offer a bit of everything for everyone, from the finest<br />

white-tablecloth options available to the more amu<strong>si</strong>ngly<br />

backwards establishments complete with greasy cutlery<br />

and bumbling waiters.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

Assuming that vi<strong>si</strong>tors avoid the clas<strong>si</strong>c traps of restaurant<br />

dining and the outrageously overpriced places aimed<br />

at the tourist market, eating in Ljubljana, although not as<br />

cheap as it was, remains a pleasantly affordable experience<br />

for all.<br />

A<strong>si</strong>an<br />

Bangkok Street M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.<br />

(+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, info@<br />

bangkokstreet.<strong>si</strong>, www.bangkokstreet.<strong>si</strong>. Settle into a<br />

table with views of an artfully-lit perforated metal structure<br />

just beyond the ceiling-high windows at the back of this stylish<br />

new eatery, and you just might be able to forget that you’re<br />

staring at the façade of a parking garage from a shopping<br />

mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting to the nearest<br />

telephone to call home and <strong>si</strong>ng its praises, it’s better than<br />

you might expect given the location and you’ll be hard-pressed<br />

to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the portions are<br />

huge and there’s also a relatively inexpen<strong>si</strong>ve all-you-can-eat<br />

buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00<br />

- 15:00. (€4-16). PTAULGW<br />

China Fast Food E-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel.<br />

(+386) 31 56 82 78. Six little tables in<strong>si</strong>de a small restaurant<br />

on the ground floor of Centar Ledina (across the park oppo<strong>si</strong>te<br />

the main train station), constantly busy at lunchtime with locals<br />

tucking into food cooked in a <strong>si</strong>ngle wok by a Chinese man vi<strong>si</strong>ble<br />

through a large plate glass window. Reasonably priced, fast,<br />

and with vegetarian options as well, the food is pretty good,<br />

and worth investigating if you find yourself here with an empty<br />

stomach and not a lot of time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed<br />

Sun. (€4.70-6.80). PJAUGS<br />

Our only complaint about Lunch Café’s delectable tiramisu is the ridiculously large portions it comes in, photo by Branka<br />

Jovanović<br />

February - March 2011<br />

29


30 restAurAnts<br />

Shambala C-4,<br />

Križevniška 12, tel.<br />

(+386) 14 26 30<br />

Show this copy of InYourPocket and claim a<br />

14/(+386) 31 843<br />

SPECIAL 5% DISCOUNT 833, info@shambala.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.shambala.<strong>si</strong>. Great value A<strong>si</strong>an food in a<br />

quiet, <strong>si</strong>de street location. Head out back to the covered<br />

garden and order any of the tremendous stir fries, though<br />

do not forego the starters: tempura made with shrimps<br />

make great nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on<br />

the menu (not always the case in these parts). QOpen<br />

09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50).<br />

PTJAGBK<br />

Sushimama C/D-3, Wolfova 12/(+386) 40 70 20 70,<br />

www.sushimama.<strong>si</strong>. The first - and for a long time only - Japanese<br />

restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s<br />

interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription<br />

to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the<br />

sushi chef on display as he works in the restaurant. The exten<strong>si</strong>ve<br />

menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle<br />

soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to<br />

of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an exten<strong>si</strong>ve list of<br />

cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the<br />

first and finest of its kind. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(€11-24). PJARGBXS<br />

Balkan<br />

Čad (Pod Rožnikom) J-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel.<br />

(+386) 1251 34 46, www.gp-vic.<strong>si</strong>/roznik-eng.asp.<br />

When you ask locals to name there favourite Serbian restaurant<br />

in Ljubljana, Čad is the most frequently heard answer.<br />

Small, rustic, and surrounded by greenery, this gostilna is<br />

<strong>si</strong>tuated by Rožnik hill, near Tivoli Park. Speciali<strong>si</strong>ng in spit<br />

and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici<br />

skewer all come highly recommended. Easy to combine with a<br />

trip to the zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />

(€5-15). PTJA6ILGBX<br />

Harambaša C-5, Vrtna Ulica, tel. (+386) 41 84 31 06.<br />

Ćevapčići (che-VAP-chi-chi) - the delicious Balkan staple of juicy<br />

barbequed lamb or beef - is served in abundance here. This<br />

ćevapnica (che-vap-nitsa, a cafe/restaurant serving ćevapčići)<br />

has a quaint and cosy dining room, complete with old photos,<br />

antiques and a Balkan soundtrack. A<strong>si</strong>de from the odd<br />

American, the clientele is refreshingly local - and a<strong>si</strong>de from the<br />

air-conditioning you could ea<strong>si</strong>ly be in a village in the Bosnian<br />

country<strong>si</strong>de. Located on quiet backstreet, Harambaša is a great<br />

place for a beer, chat and, of course, lots of lovely ćevapčići.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.<br />

(€5-8). PS<br />

Rio-Momo C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 31 751 751/<br />

(+386) 14 25 32 26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated between<br />

the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s<br />

main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the<br />

most inviting but once you get in<strong>si</strong>de it’s actually quite warm<br />

and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend<br />

the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although<br />

vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose<br />

from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table<br />

out<strong>si</strong>de for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA<br />

Many more restaurants online at<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Sarajevo ‘84 C-3, Nazorjeva 12. One of Ljubljana’s more<br />

atmospheric Bosnian restaurants occupies the subterranean<br />

premises of a former jazz club and sports an interior somewhat<br />

reminiscent of a pub - walls plastered with memorabilia<br />

from the 1984 Winter Olympics, arched brick ceilings and old<br />

black and white Yugoslav tourist videos playing on a projection<br />

screen. The menu only has two main dishes, so ordering<br />

comes down to which shape you prefer your meat to take:<br />

sausages (ćevapčići) or a patty (pljeskavica), both of which<br />

come with bread and diced onions. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />

Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-4.80). JAS<br />

Sofra L-1, Dunajska 145, tel. (+386) 1 565 68 00. For<br />

a well-prepared taste of Bosnia without the long train ride,<br />

this restaurant offers intimate and classy surroundings and<br />

a reasonably priced menu featuring mostly Bosnian grilled,<br />

roasted, and sometimes spicy specialties. The vegetarian<br />

among you might find something in the burek offerings, and for<br />

the adventurous there are a few beef tongue delicacies. There<br />

is also a <strong>si</strong>zeable room off to one <strong>si</strong>de that can be closed off<br />

for large private parties. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />

23:00. Closed Sun. (€4-7). PAULEGBXS<br />

Fish<br />

Gostilna Krpan L/M-3, Ob Ljubljanici 24, tel. (+386)<br />

15 21 12 20, gostilna.krpan@<strong>si</strong>ol.com, www.gostilnakrpan.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Located along the river in the quiet neighbourhood<br />

a couple kilometres east of the city centre, this<br />

nicely de<strong>si</strong>gned Slovenian fish restaurant has a stunning<br />

variety of fresh fish specialities on offer. The menu comprises<br />

everything from oysters and squid to scorpionfish<br />

and lobster. Naturally, there’s a good selection of wines<br />

to make the fish swim. All in all one of the city’s more romantic<br />

affairs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€4-43).<br />

PTA6ULGBXS<br />

Ribca D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 14<br />

25 15 44, www.ribca.<strong>si</strong>. Somewhat hidden below Plečnik’s<br />

famous colonnaded arcade on the banks of the Ljubljanica,<br />

Ribca is the city’s best known seafood restaurant and worth<br />

stopping by as much for the architecture as the food. The various<br />

fish, squid and shrimp dishes on their no-nonsense menu<br />

are pretty much guaranteed to be fresh as it’s all sourced from<br />

the local fish market located right next door. The lunch menu<br />

is a great value at €7.50, but make sure to stop by early as it’s<br />

only open during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />

14:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-7.70). JA6BS<br />

Burek<br />

Nobel Burek D-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386)<br />

12 32 33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus<br />

stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as<br />

pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street.<br />

Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€1-2).<br />

J6UXS<br />

Olimpija D-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal<br />

favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about out<strong>si</strong>de<br />

around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also<br />

the runaway winner of our online poll. The servings are<br />

huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose<br />

from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the<br />

overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around<br />

the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

€2. JNXS<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


French<br />

Bon Appétit D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 1 430<br />

80 80, bonappetit.ljubljana@yahoo.com. Since being<br />

opened by a Pari<strong>si</strong>an émigré and his Polish wife several<br />

years ago, Ljubljana’s premier French eatery has managed<br />

to remain somewhat hidden, tucked away beneath one of<br />

city’s best-known arthouse cinemas. Awash in deep reds and<br />

dark wood, the restaurant exudes elegance and feels almost<br />

like a private club. The food itself is routinely excellent, and<br />

we’ve been assured by our French friends that it’s entirely<br />

authentic and exceedingly popular amongst Ljubljana’s small<br />

French community. The premises also double as one of the<br />

city’s better wine bars, with well over 100 different bottles of<br />

exclu<strong>si</strong>vely French wine (mostly imported directly from producers)<br />

available for purchase. Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00<br />

and 19:00-22:00, and on Sat-Sun by special arrangement.<br />

(€8.90 - 17.50). PTJA6LVSW<br />

Fruit juice<br />

Juicebox C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 51 645 930,<br />

info@juicebox.<strong>si</strong>, www.juicebox.<strong>si</strong>/index.html. An<br />

experimental juice bar that mixes up glasses upon glasses<br />

of 100% fruit juices, soya milk, milk, yogurt and nuts. That’s<br />

enough to get anyone’s mouth water. Definitely, a pleasant<br />

place for an invigorating start to the day or a mid day refreshment<br />

and you can bring your laptop along to make use<br />

of its WiFi facility. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 8:00 - 15:00.<br />

Closed Sun. GW<br />

Indian<br />

Namasté C/D-4, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59,<br />

info@restavracija-namaste.<strong>si</strong>, www.restavracijanamaste.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Lots of greens, oranges and golds and some<br />

nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere in<strong>si</strong>de<br />

a super restaurant speciali<strong>si</strong>ng primarily in dishes from<br />

Rajastan and the Punjab. U<strong>si</strong>ng the best spices imported<br />

directly from India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes,<br />

both meat and vegetarian options are made individually<br />

from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is excellent.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21).<br />

PTJA6UGBXS<br />

International<br />

As C-3, Čopova 5A, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) 1425<br />

88 22, gostilna.as@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.gostilnaas.<strong>si</strong>. Exqui<strong>si</strong>te<br />

presentation and service mark the legendary As out as one of<br />

the most expen<strong>si</strong>ve dining experiences in the city. Brimming<br />

with antiques and well-behaved waiters, <strong>si</strong>t amidst opulent<br />

detritus and feast from a menu including more fancy dishes<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

than you could eat in a year including baked potatoes with<br />

caviar, lamb cutlet with honey and truffles plus a battalion<br />

of fabulous desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-31).<br />

PJAGB<br />

Argentino M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1<br />

523 36 30, www.argentino.<strong>si</strong>. The journey out to BTC is<br />

well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced<br />

to be believed. Huge, and based on a clas<strong>si</strong>c Argentinean<br />

hacienda on two levels with further seating out<strong>si</strong>de,<br />

the interior de<strong>si</strong>gner had a great time thinking this one up.<br />

Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors,<br />

a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen. Q Open<br />

Mon-Thur 08:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-24:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(€5.20-45). PTAR6UILGBXS<br />

Atrium H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 14 70 27 00,<br />

fax (+386) 14 70 27 08, info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.hotel.<br />

mons.<strong>si</strong>. The menu at the flagship restaurant of the Mons<br />

Hotel and Congress Centre is a sublime mix of the traditional<br />

and the contemporary. Clas<strong>si</strong>c dishes are brought to life<br />

with modern twists, such as the saddle of lamb served with<br />

pears and polenta. The wine list is one of the city’s best, and<br />

the forest setting perfect for escaping the city centre heat.<br />

An absolute gem. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €16.<br />

PTHULGKW<br />

Emonska Klet C-3, Plečnikov Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1 42 19<br />

300, emonska.klet@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.emonskaklet.com. A<br />

bustling cavernous basement restaurant with exposed brick<br />

décor that gives it something of a wine cellar feel, the menu<br />

con<strong>si</strong>sts of traditionally inspired dishes and favourites like<br />

pizza, with a good salad bar thrown in. While the lightning<br />

speed with which pasta and <strong>si</strong>milar fare are delivered leads<br />

one to suspect a microwave-driven, assembly line operation<br />

in the kitchen, the tastiness of the food and fact that none<br />

of it exceeds €7 makes Emonska Klet an enjoyable dining<br />

experience. Q (€3.5-7). PTJAGBXW<br />

JB D-1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13 58, info@<br />

jb-slo.com, www.jb-slo.com. Firmly entrenched as one<br />

of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience<br />

comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž<br />

(hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more<br />

impo<strong>si</strong>ng seces<strong>si</strong>onist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of<br />

well-to-do locals and vi<strong>si</strong>ting bu<strong>si</strong>nessmen - guaranteeing<br />

you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety<br />

of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal<br />

specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as<br />

bear meat appearing from time to time. The only down<strong>si</strong>de<br />

is the price, ea<strong>si</strong>ly topping €50 per person for a proper meal<br />

with wine. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

31


32 restAurAnts<br />

Jurman N-3, Zaloška 151, tel. (+386) 51 358 358,<br />

pizzeria.jurman@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.jurman-sp.<strong>si</strong>. Located<br />

on the outskirts of town, this popular family-friendly gostilna<br />

packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have a bit of<br />

everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere that manages<br />

to include knights, a waterfall and an video arcade all<br />

under the same roof. The logo features a waiter sprinting<br />

hands full to someone’s table, and true enough the waiters<br />

are hurrying around making sure everyone is seen to quickly<br />

whether they are in<strong>si</strong>de or out near the children’s play area on<br />

the astroturfed patio. It’s a good budget-conscious option and<br />

the food isn’t half-bad either. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12).<br />

PTAULVGBS<br />

Lunch Café Marley & Me D-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386)<br />

8 380 66 10/(+386) 40 564 188, info@lunchcafe.net,<br />

www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped pine, friendly profes<strong>si</strong>onal<br />

service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city,<br />

despite the name this intimate bistro-type restaurant is open<br />

for breakfast and dinner as well and comes highly recommended.<br />

Standouts from the small yet varied menu include<br />

the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas and some truly<br />

memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the<br />

place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during<br />

the day is a common occurrence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />

(€3-19). PJA6UGBXSW<br />

Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03 95,<br />

www.neboticnik.<strong>si</strong>. Only opened the last week of September,<br />

this restaurant on the 10th floor of the Nebotičnik<br />

building looks like something out of New York in the 1920s<br />

(or at least films set in New York in the 1920s). A wooden<br />

spiral staircase leads down to the large dining area which<br />

has been completely restored from the stone floors to the<br />

high recessed ceilings, including furniture custom-de<strong>si</strong>gned<br />

in the style of the 80 year-old originals. With sweeping views<br />

of the city in all directions, it offers a dining experience like<br />

none other in Ljubljana. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (€7-24).<br />

PJALEG<br />

Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, plato@<br />

<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.plato.<strong>si</strong>. Located right in the centre of town<br />

next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings<br />

- a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting<br />

architectural liberties - this newer restaurant is something<br />

of an oa<strong>si</strong>s above the bustling square below. The lunch-time<br />

only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy<br />

Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending<br />

on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at<br />

local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus<br />

you can also order à la carte, although if you haven’t had a<br />

chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the<br />

attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW<br />

Salon D-3, Trubarjeva 23, tel. (+386) 59 19 04 00, www.<br />

salon.<strong>si</strong>. Finally reopened after some exten<strong>si</strong>ve renovations,<br />

the former café-cum-bar may have kept the same name, but<br />

has otherwise been transformed into a stylish upmarket<br />

restaurant, replete with de<strong>si</strong>gner furnishings, live DJs and a<br />

head chef who previously worked in a two Michelin star establishment.<br />

The menu has elements of Italian, Japanese and<br />

even Mexican cui<strong>si</strong>ne, but can best be described as modern<br />

international, and the food is complimented by great service<br />

from the smartly-dressed staff. The kitchen also stays open<br />

till early morning, so if fancy cuscus with sea bass at 2am you<br />

know where to go. Q Open Mon-Tues 09:00-01:00, Wed-Sat<br />

09:00-03:00. Closed Sun. (€7-18).<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00,<br />

sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. Officially<br />

one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award<br />

to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well<br />

worth your time. The central location, the delightfully <strong>si</strong>mple<br />

- mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding<br />

service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the<br />

tables overlooking the lounge: among the most soughtafter<br />

in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00.<br />

PTJHAULGKW<br />

Smrekarjev Hram D-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1308<br />

19 75, www.gh-union.<strong>si</strong>. Another of Ljubljana’s upscale<br />

eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long<br />

wine list, made up of exclu<strong>si</strong>vely local bottles with the sole<br />

exception being French champagne for those particularly<br />

special occa<strong>si</strong>ons. Make sure you leave room for a main and<br />

a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat<br />

dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce,<br />

finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla icecream.<br />

The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the<br />

funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun<br />

to somewhere with more than a touch of class. QOpen 12:00<br />

- 23:00. (€14-50). PTJA6ULEGBSW<br />

Italian<br />

Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1 423 24 23,<br />

azur@telemach.net, www.azur-tratorija.<strong>si</strong>. A Ljubljana<br />

institution <strong>si</strong>nce 1994, Azur recently underwent some noticeable<br />

changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange façade,<br />

which has been replaced with more muted tones and reflects<br />

a generally improved level of quality and sophistication, and<br />

an expan<strong>si</strong>ve wine list, full multi-course daily lunch specials<br />

and a more profes<strong>si</strong>onal staff all cater to the bu<strong>si</strong>ness crowd<br />

that keeps the placing buzzing during the day. Of course the<br />

award-winning pizza has remained unchanged, and the location<br />

still makes for a convenient stop on a trip to or from the<br />

nearby zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />

(€4.90-14.90). PTAULGBS<br />

Al Capone M-2, Šmartinska 152b, Citypark, BTC City,<br />

tel. (+386) 1 541 00 61, fax (+386) 1 585 22 04, info@<br />

teman.<strong>si</strong>, www.al-capone.<strong>si</strong>. Despite taking its name from<br />

the notorious American gangster, this Italian eatery is an entirely<br />

family-friendly spot to grab a bite. Located in the always bustling<br />

food court at City Park, the pasta and pizza cafeteria does its best<br />

to affect a rustic feel with brick walls and aged wooden chairs, and<br />

what it inevitably lacks in ambience it more than makes up for with<br />

large portions of tasty fare. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />

22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€6-10). PTAULGW<br />

Kavalino E-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. (+386) 1232 09 90,<br />

www.kavalino.<strong>si</strong>. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone alleyway<br />

between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian<br />

restaurant specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you<br />

see upon entering is a tasteful dining area with an indoor<br />

tree in the corner that rises up to a skylight. Further back<br />

there’s a smaller dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling,<br />

and upstairs is a café. The service might not be the<br />

friendliest, but at least it’s efficient, and the varied and<br />

tasty lunch specials are downright cheap. Definitely worth<br />

finding. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (€6-18). PTJA6GBXSW<br />

San Martino M-2, BTC City, tel. (+386) 1 585 22<br />

70, fax (+386) 1 585 22 04, info@teman.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

sanmartino.<strong>si</strong>. A shockingly good looking restaurant on<br />

the edge of the sprawling BTC Center. The restaurant has a<br />

hip and stylish staff, two terraces for out<strong>si</strong>de eating, a large<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

dining room, and a white leather sofa’d room in the middle for<br />

relaxing and <strong>si</strong>pping on coffee or wine. Oh and the food? Italian<br />

trattoria pastas and pizzas. If you’re in the mall and absolutely<br />

famished, escape the food courts and come directly here for a<br />

proper meal. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4,80-15).<br />

PTAUILEGBXW<br />

Trattoria Katrca J-3, Rožna Dolina I/26a, tel. (+386)<br />

1 422 88 40, katrca1905@gmail.com, www.katrca.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Speciali<strong>si</strong>ng in Tuscan cui<strong>si</strong>ne, this century-old inn has a menu<br />

that puts most of its competition to shame. Going well beyond<br />

the run-of-the-mill noodle and sauce offerings, this is the place<br />

to tuck into some truly fantastic creations, such as pasta with<br />

prawns, bacon and chilli pepper or truffle and honey risotto.<br />

The meat dishes are also a cut above most, with horse, turkey<br />

and wild boar taking centre stage. The recently renovated<br />

premises also include several spacious and well-equipped<br />

rooms upstairs (<strong>si</strong>ngles €65, doubles €85). QOpen 07:00 -<br />

23:30. Closed Sun. (€6.50-27). PALG<br />

Mediterranean<br />

Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1 423 24 23,<br />

info@pizzeria-azur.<strong>si</strong>, www.pizzeria-azur.<strong>si</strong>. A Ljubljana<br />

institution <strong>si</strong>nce 1994, Azur recently underwent some noticeable<br />

changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange façade,<br />

which has been replaced with more muted tones and reflects<br />

a generally improved level of quality and sophistication, and<br />

an expan<strong>si</strong>ve wine list, full multi-course daily lunch specials<br />

and a more profes<strong>si</strong>onal staff all cater to the bu<strong>si</strong>ness crowd<br />

that keeps the placing buzzing during the day. Of course the<br />

award-winning pizza has remained unchanged, and the location<br />

still makes for a convenient stop on a trip to or from the<br />

nearby zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />

(€4.90-14.90). PTAULGBS<br />

February - March 2011<br />

33


34 restAurAnts<br />

NEW<br />

Medana K-4, Cesta v Mestni Log 3, tel. (+386) 1 283<br />

21 37/(+386) 1 283 21 38, gostilna.medana@<strong>si</strong>ol.<br />

net, www.gostilna-medana.<strong>si</strong>. Named after one of our<br />

favourite villages in Slovenia’s idyllic Goriška Brda wine region,<br />

this new restaurant located just south of the city centre in<br />

Murgle won us over as soon as we heard of the place. The<br />

oft-changing seasonally influenced menu is purposely kept<br />

on the short <strong>si</strong>de, but doesn’t disappoint - with an ample<br />

selection of pasta, risotto, meat and fish dishes - and the wine<br />

list is expectedly robust, with vineyards from Brda obviously<br />

well-represented. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Zajčja Dobrava Novo Polje III/27, tel. (+386) 1 54 74<br />

806, rezervacije@zajcja-dobrava.com. Resembling some<br />

kind of alpine hacienda placed amongst meadows and forests<br />

a short drive east of the city centre, this year-old Mediterranean<br />

restaurant has already developed a loyal following<br />

and seems destined to become a favourite of city folk who<br />

truly appreciate quality food, service and atmosphere. It’s<br />

also the definition of ‘family-friendly’ with multiple children’s<br />

play areas and even the pos<strong>si</strong>bility to go horseback riding<br />

next door. To get there turn left at the unmissable Virgin<br />

Mary Church in Polje and then right on Novo Polje Cesta<br />

after the train underpass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-20).<br />

TA6ILB<br />

Many more restaurants online at<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Mexican<br />

Cantina Mexicana C-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod,<br />

tel. (+386) 1426 93 25, www.cantina-mexicanarestaurantes.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Fun on two floors in one of the city’s most<br />

popular courtyards, Cantina Mexicana is po<strong>si</strong>tively aglow<br />

with bright colours, strange sculptures, grass growing on the<br />

ceiling and some nice lighting tricks behind the long groundfloor<br />

bar. The food is clas<strong>si</strong>c Tex-Mex as you’d expect, and<br />

appears to be fairly popular. If nothing else, this is one of<br />

the quirkiest and <strong>si</strong>lliest places in the city centre and even<br />

if you’re not hungry is well worth a vi<strong>si</strong>t for a drink or two.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90).<br />

PTJA6GBSW<br />

Pizza<br />

Foculus C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 92<br />

95, foculus@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.foculus.com. Magnificently<br />

decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place<br />

automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted<br />

ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the<br />

roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy<br />

Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for<br />

vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also<br />

particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the<br />

evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes<br />

for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in<br />

Ljubljana by IYP readers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40).<br />

PTJAUGBS<br />

Oliva M-4, Litijska 38, tel. (+386) 51 686 666, www.<br />

pizzeria-oliva.com. This large and popular pizzeria is located<br />

a bit further than walking-distance to the east of the city<br />

centre, but luckily for you (or at least us) they will gladly deliver<br />

to pretty much anywhere in Ljubljana seven days a week. The<br />

menu features standard Italian fare, along with dozens of pizzas<br />

- including such exotic offerings as the Robin Hood (with<br />

venison salami, mushrooms and sour cream), Eight Tastes<br />

(which includes hot dogs, beef sausage, artichoke, eggplant<br />

and tuna among others) and our personal favourite, the double<br />

dough Beer Drinker’s pizza, perfect for soaking up a night’s<br />

worth of Laško. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-16).<br />

Parma B/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82<br />

22, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one,<br />

this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here<br />

is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and<br />

served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you<br />

go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a<br />

look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction<br />

of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the<br />

stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6).<br />

TJA6ULGBXSW<br />

Tr ta D-5, Grudnovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1 426<br />

50 66, trta@s5.net, www.trta.<strong>si</strong>. Trta is the most<br />

frequently heard answer to the question: Who makes the<br />

best pizza in Ljubljana? - and not without good reason.<br />

Its wood-fired oven churns out some truly delectable<br />

pies, which tend to be a bit more substantial than most<br />

of the thin-crusted competition. Our personal favourite is<br />

probably the Toskanska, with rocket and pancetta among<br />

other toppings, but with over 40 different pizzas crowding<br />

onto the menu you won’t be left wanting for choices. Located<br />

in a yellow house along the right bank a short walk<br />

south of the city centre, Trta comes highly recommended.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />

PAGBS<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Quick Eats<br />

Hot Horse B-2, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 15 21 14<br />

27, www.hot-horse.<strong>si</strong>. Eating horses may horrify most British<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>tors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much<br />

Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and<br />

easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling.<br />

Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in<br />

Tivoli Park and just out<strong>si</strong>de BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon<br />

10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS<br />

Konkurenca D-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 52 26. Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in or take<br />

away around the clock just southwest of the train and bus<br />

stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for<br />

some of the cheapest eats in town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Open 24hrs. (€1-5). J<br />

Opcija E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 6, tel. (+386) 1 620<br />

92 57, www.opcija.<strong>si</strong>. In a break from traditional train station<br />

fare, Opcija offers a staggering selection of freshly made<br />

sandwiches and salads at fairly reasonable prices. They also<br />

deliver Mon-Fri from 10:00-18:00 on orders over €8. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00. (€2.5-3).<br />

Smith’s C/D-2, Dalmatinova 2, www.smiths.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Ljubljana’s premier gourmet sandwich shop now has a<br />

second location under the Ajdovščina commercial centre<br />

just off Slovenska. Choose from a dozen or so combinations<br />

of fillings - our personal favourite is probably the Surf & Turf<br />

with chicken and shrimps - as well as the type of bread, or<br />

create your own and pay per ingredient. You’ll never be able<br />

to settle for pre-packaged vending machine or supermarket<br />

sandwiches again. QOpen 06:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

(€1.55-3.60). JVS<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

For a cosy evening and great food, stop by one of the many<br />

restaurants serving traditonal Slovenian fare<br />

Slovenian<br />

In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian - with sheep<br />

and cows on it’s mountain pastures giving meat and milk<br />

products, the Mediterranean fresh providing seafood,<br />

and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy,<br />

you might as well call it world cui<strong>si</strong>ne. One thing that is<br />

unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned<br />

Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade<br />

food that would make your granny grin.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

35


36 restAurAnts<br />

Gostilna na Brinju K-1, Vodovodna 44, tel. (+386) 1<br />

565 94 90, fax (+386) 1 565 94 95. One of the capital’s<br />

best known traditional Slovene restaurants, little has changed<br />

at this Ljubljana mainstay for well over half a century. Now in<br />

the third generation of the Marinčič family, Brinje has managed<br />

to maintain the air of an unassuming neighbourhood diner<br />

despite its popularity and clientele (many of the country’s<br />

top power-brokers are regulars). Of course it helps to have<br />

had the same furniture for 50 years and the same cook for<br />

almost as long. The menu is quite exten<strong>si</strong>ve and changes<br />

seasonally, but year-round the house specialty remains<br />

obscenely large portions of high quality meat, followed by<br />

Solnograški žličniki - a one-of-a-kind dessert invented by the<br />

family matron. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€7-<br />

18). PTA6UILBX<br />

Gostilna na Gradu D-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. (+386) 8<br />

205 19 30, www.nagradu.<strong>si</strong>. After months of preparation,<br />

the long-awaited restaurant at Ljubljana Castle finally opened<br />

in September. Decidedly upmarket in appearance and service,<br />

the prices are surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly modest - especially given the truly<br />

unique location and dining experience that goes along with<br />

it. Na Gradu’s award-winning chefs pride themselves on the<br />

expert preparation of Slovenia’s diverse range of traditional<br />

dishes, which have been developed over the centuries in the<br />

country’s 24 separate gastronomic regions, with nearly all of<br />

the ingredients being locally produced. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

(€5-12). PTJALB<br />

NEW<br />

Gostilnica Rimska XXI B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1<br />

256 56 54, zmauc@<strong>si</strong>ol.net. Only opened in January, this<br />

promi<strong>si</strong>ng Slovene eatery was still operating on a limited menu<br />

and awaiting the imminent arrival of a new chef as we went to<br />

print, but we like what we’ve seen so far: low arched ceilings,<br />

moody red walls and a touch of rustic furnishings. By early<br />

February the kitchen should be turning out fresh homemade<br />

Slovene cui<strong>si</strong>ne, and feature specialities such as deer, fish<br />

and wood-baked meat dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat<br />

12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Jelen Celovška 462, tel. (+386) 1 5161 545, info@<br />

pen<strong>si</strong>on-jelen.eu, www.pen<strong>si</strong>on-jelen.eu. Located in Šiška<br />

some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant<br />

has been serving locals and tourists alike <strong>si</strong>nce 1878.<br />

There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as<br />

an assortment of tasty Balkan-style grilled meats and pizzas<br />

from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped<br />

modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early<br />

morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much<br />

to make it very far from the table.<br />

Pri Škofu C-5, Rečna 8, tel. (+386) 14 26 45 08,<br />

priskofu@volja.net. Hidden down a small <strong>si</strong>de street in<br />

Krakovo, Pri Škofu is a long-time favourite of cash-strapped<br />

univer<strong>si</strong>ty students who still like to enjoy a proper meal from<br />

time to time, and you’re virtually guaranteed to see at least<br />

a couple bespectacled hipsters seated at a table nearby.<br />

The €8 lunch specials come in obscenely large portions and<br />

are one of the best values in town. Although there’s no menu<br />

it’s also pos<strong>si</strong>ble to order à la carte, and an English-speaking<br />

waitress will gladly rattle off what’s available QOpen 07:00 -<br />

23:00. (€5-20). PJA<br />

Vodnikov Hram D/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12<br />

34 52 60, www.vodnikov-hram.<strong>si</strong>. Named after Valentin<br />

Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene<br />

poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent<br />

square, it’s one of the better known places to sample<br />

traditional Slovenian cui<strong>si</strong>ne in Ljubljana. Dining under its<br />

vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is<br />

grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re<br />

waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the<br />

castle. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€5-28).<br />

PTA6ULGSW<br />

Spanish<br />

Don Felipe E-4, Streliška 22, tel. (+386) 14 34 38<br />

62, info@donfelipe.net, www.donfelipe.net. Ljubljana’s<br />

only proper Spanish restaurant would likely stand out even<br />

if had some competition. Lots of exposed wood and worn<br />

floors give the place a charming rustic feel, and the service<br />

is excellent (if not overwhelmingly fast during peak hours). A<br />

lengthy tapas menu is complimented by an equally exten<strong>si</strong>ve<br />

wine list, and the daily three-course lunch special should keep<br />

you busy for a good hour and a half for less than €10. Check<br />

their web<strong>si</strong>te for details about upcoming Flamenco shows,<br />

which are usually held every couple of weeks. QOpen 12:00<br />

- 24:00. (€4-23).<br />

Vegetarian<br />

Ajdovo Zrno D-3, Trubarjeva 7, ajdovo.zrno@gmail.com,<br />

www.satwa.<strong>si</strong>/. This popular vegetarian café is tucked away<br />

in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian<br />

street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when<br />

you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the<br />

dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads<br />

of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and<br />

even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and<br />

smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen<br />

with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably<br />

even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

(€2-6). PJABS<br />

Vegedrom J-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. (+386) 15 13 26<br />

42, info@vegedrom.com, www.vegedrom.com. A<br />

vegetarian can certainly stuff themselves on vegetable<br />

pizzas and <strong>si</strong>de salads in the center of town, but if it is<br />

real healthy vegetarian meals you are after then head to<br />

the outskirts and try Vegedrom. The restaurant creates<br />

vegetarian, organic and vegan meals inspired by Slovenian<br />

and Indian cui<strong>si</strong>ne, with daily specials and special lunch<br />

sets that include soup, salad, and a sweet. A worthwhile<br />

trek for something healthy and delicious. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4-10).<br />

TA6ULGBXS<br />

One of the many sweet creations from Dulcis in BTC<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite<br />

things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire<br />

old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés<br />

that line nearly every street. During the colder months<br />

things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking<br />

ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons out<strong>si</strong>de<br />

huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on<br />

coffee’s <strong>si</strong>gnificant other. The most popular places can be<br />

found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and<br />

Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the oppo<strong>si</strong>te bank, but with so<br />

many options to choose from just wandering around until<br />

you find a place you fancy is never a bad option.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live mu<strong>si</strong>c S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R Internet L Guarded parking<br />

O Ca<strong>si</strong>no J Old Town location<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

B Out<strong>si</strong>de seating V Home delivery<br />

Café Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80,<br />

plato@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.plato.<strong>si</strong>. A stylish and still relatively<br />

new café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes<br />

and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the<br />

centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for<br />

some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also<br />

a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more<br />

than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer<br />

that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). PT�<br />

JA6GBXSW<br />

Čez Cesto D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. (+386) 1470<br />

47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpretentious<br />

spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local<br />

market, rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth<br />

more investigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine<br />

and spirits and the most extraordinary white chandelier.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />

TJAUGS<br />

Cha (Čajna Hiša) D-4, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 12 52 70<br />

10, cha@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.cha.<strong>si</strong>. When it’s all just to much,<br />

it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s<br />

exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the<br />

world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s<br />

a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic<br />

tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds<br />

to the special feel of the place. An on-<strong>si</strong>te shop sells the dry<br />

ver<strong>si</strong>on too. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed<br />

Sun. TJAGBS<br />

Drago F Tinta D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27. Named after<br />

the late Slovene-Chilean author, the cultural credentials of this<br />

river<strong>si</strong>de café are beyond reproach. In addition to bi-monthly<br />

art exhibitions and Saturday morning book readings, there’s<br />

also an informal ‘leave one, take one’ book exchange boasting<br />

a more diverse selection of English language titles than most<br />

of the city’s bookshops. Throw in the high ceilings, comfortable<br />

bench-style seating, free Wi-Fi and laid back soundtrack<br />

and this place seems destined to become a favourite<br />

amongst the univer<strong>si</strong>ty hipster crowd. PJBSW<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CAFÉs<br />

One thing Ljubljana is not lacking in is cafés, photo by<br />

Flavio Takemoto<br />

Dulcis Caffe M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1 585<br />

22 56, www.dulcis.<strong>si</strong>. Located at the market (Tržnica) in the BTC<br />

shopping complex and styled after a clas<strong>si</strong>c French patisserie,<br />

Dulcis prepares some of the most delectable traditional sweets<br />

and home-baked goods around. One of their specialities is a cake<br />

made with apricots, herbs and aromatic cinnamon, which they<br />

claim is an aphrodi<strong>si</strong>ac. It’s definitely worth a stopping by if you<br />

find the need to satisfy your sweet tooth while out for a day of<br />

shopping. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. PTALVBS<br />

Grajska Kavarna D-4, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Castle),<br />

tel. (+386) 14 39 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana Castle’s<br />

very own café is housed in<strong>si</strong>de a dismal-looking 1980s concrete<br />

monstro<strong>si</strong>ty well overdue for a facelift. Retaining much<br />

of its original communist-era look, the interior is fun if you’re<br />

in the area, and is a good place to stock up on fruit juice,<br />

wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches and a Harry Potter ice cream.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PTJA6GBSW<br />

Kavarna Tromostovje D-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.<strong>si</strong>. Here near<br />

Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), along<strong>si</strong>de the<br />

river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This<br />

open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in<br />

the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals<br />

and tourists <strong>si</strong>tting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream,<br />

soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a<br />

daytime concert on the square. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />

TJ6UENBXSW<br />

Le Petit Café C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 12 51 25 75. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables<br />

of bubbly locals and clued-up vi<strong>si</strong>tors drink coffee, tea and<br />

look utterly Pari<strong>si</strong>an without even trying. Every other cafe in<br />

Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why.<br />

What’s more, it is not even expen<strong>si</strong>ve: big omelets and tasty<br />

toasted sandwiches all come in at around €3.50. QOpen<br />

07:30 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBSW<br />

NEW<br />

Lolita D-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 5 901 62<br />

99/(+386) 41 344 189, kaval-group.<strong>si</strong>. With absurdly high<br />

ceilings, exposed brick walls, great views through huge plate<br />

glass windows and super comfortable seating, this newly<br />

opened river<strong>si</strong>de café leaves little to be de<strong>si</strong>red - the place<br />

even smells great thanks to bouquets of fresh cut flowers at the<br />

entrance. Delectable-looking cakes are displayed in speciallybuilt<br />

cases, and gourmet chocolates and teas are also on<br />

sale. We didn’t think Ljubljana had room for any more cafés, but<br />

Lolita proved us wrong. Q Open Mon-Thur 08:00-22:00, Fri-Sat<br />

08:00-23:00 and Sun 09:00-21:00. PJAGBX<br />

February - March 2011<br />

37


38 CAFÉs<br />

Maček D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 14 25 37 91, www.<br />

macek-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking<br />

places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something<br />

a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls<br />

decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits<br />

of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular<br />

with families toting young children during the weekends.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6GBSW<br />

Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03<br />

95, www.neboticnik.<strong>si</strong>. After being shuttered for nearly a<br />

decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the<br />

public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik<br />

(or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest re<strong>si</strong>dential<br />

structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s<br />

360 degree views from Alps to the castle to the hills in the<br />

south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee and cakes aren’t<br />

bad either. This is a must see stop for all vi<strong>si</strong>tors. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 03:00.<br />

Pri Semaforju C-4, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893<br />

664. Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several<br />

different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to<br />

<strong>si</strong>t either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your<br />

fancy. Lively, upbeat mu<strong>si</strong>c provides a soundtrack for all manner<br />

of pierced teenagers to <strong>si</strong>t around and plan revolutions<br />

over a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange<br />

juice, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to<br />

leave your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />

Sat, Sun. TJ6UGBXSW<br />

SEM Kavarna F-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Museum),<br />

tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look<br />

café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a<br />

glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too<br />

pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all<br />

the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s<br />

more interesting characters. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PT�<br />

JA6UGBXSW<br />

STA Travel Cafe C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439<br />

16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.<br />

com. There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the<br />

clinical sounding name. Set on a big terrace with a good<br />

view and lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons.<br />

When all that virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you<br />

can sate them with your choice from a wide range of<br />

sandwiches. The TV is set to the travel channel so you<br />

can look at where you’ve been, where you’re going or<br />

where you want to head off to next, and every second<br />

Wednesday you can attend the travel presentations and<br />

wash all the free information down with beer, wine, coffee,<br />

tea or a soft drink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />

PJ6UGBXW<br />

Zvezda C-3, Wolfova 14, tel. (+386) 14 21 90 90,<br />

kavarna.zvezda@<strong>si</strong>ol.net. A bustling café frequented<br />

by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old<br />

ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your clas<strong>si</strong>c<br />

Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues<br />

and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest<br />

café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee<br />

is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes<br />

are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also<br />

have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska 34<br />

open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2,80-3). PT�<br />

JAUGBSW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


For a place its <strong>si</strong>ze Ljubljana has a vibrant dynamic nightlife that would be the envy of much larger cities. While this<br />

is thanks in part to the huge proportion of students re<strong>si</strong>ding in the capital - univer<strong>si</strong>ty students alone account for<br />

nearly a quarter of the population - the variety of bars, pubs and clubs is a testament to the increa<strong>si</strong>ngly diverse<br />

tastes of the city’s inhabitants. Last month the IYP editorial team chose the finalists across <strong>si</strong>x categories, and let<br />

our readers decide who was best.<br />

Congratulations to all the winners, and thanks to everyone who voted!


40 nightLiFe<br />

Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place<br />

goes po<strong>si</strong>tively Mediterranean during the summer, with<br />

cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the<br />

early hours as locals and vi<strong>si</strong>tors alike <strong>si</strong>mply forget to go<br />

home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours<br />

too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still<br />

packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is<br />

something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most<br />

of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.<br />

Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city,<br />

and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about<br />

walking home on your own late at night.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live mu<strong>si</strong>c S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R Internet L Guarded parking<br />

O Ca<strong>si</strong>no J Old Town location<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

B Out<strong>si</strong>de seating V Home delivery<br />

Bars<br />

Atrium H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700,<br />

fax (+386) 147 02 708, info@hotel.mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.mons.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers<br />

delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection<br />

of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must.<br />

The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PHLGKW<br />

Bi-Ko-Fe C-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93 93.<br />

Situated on a sloping cobbled lane oppo<strong>si</strong>te the central univeristy<br />

building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters<br />

(or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and<br />

the like. The out<strong>si</strong>de terrace is crowded from open till close<br />

- thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and<br />

the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere<br />

more akin to a house party than a bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW<br />

Compañeros C-2, Slovenska 51, companeros.5121@<br />

yahoo.com, barclubcompaneros.blogspot.com/. A fixture<br />

of Ljubljana’s nightlife scene for over a decade, other than<br />

the name the only thing that has remained the same is its<br />

reputation for hosting wild student parties. Upstairs there’s<br />

a covered outdoor terrace and atmospheric lounge area with<br />

lots of worn wood, arched ceilings and burnt orange and brown<br />

walls. Downstairs is a recently opened club that takes full advantage<br />

of its location in the bowels of the Austro-Hungarian<br />

era building, and also includes a smoking room. The mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

varies depending on the night with live bands at least a few<br />

times per month. Recommended. Q Mon-Fri 11:00-05:00,<br />

Sat-Sun 13:00-03:00. Closed on Sun from 1 July to 15 August.<br />

PJAGBXS<br />

The red-carpeted foyer of Ljubljana’s landmark Netboticnik building - 11 floors up is the city’s highest lounge and bar.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


BEST OF 2011<br />

Hugo Barrera D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel.<br />

(+386) 40 177 477. Located along the river bank beneath<br />

Plečnik’s colonaded Centralna Tržnica arcade, this Latin<br />

flavoured club is aimed at an older crowd, or at least those<br />

who can appreciate (and afford) a glass of quality <strong>si</strong>ngle malt<br />

scotch from Ljubljana’s most exten<strong>si</strong>ve whisky collection. It’s<br />

also made a name for itself among Ljubljana’s late night scene<br />

with live mu<strong>si</strong>c at the weekends. Stop by during the day for<br />

free Wi-Fi and one-of-a-kind coffee specially imported from<br />

Brazil. Q Mon-Wed 07:30-02:00, Thur-Sat 07:30-03:00,<br />

Sun 10:00-02:00. PJAEW<br />

Makalonca C/D-3, Hribarjevo Nabrežje 19, tel.<br />

(+386) 40 42 71 67, makalonca@makalonca.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

makalonca.<strong>si</strong>. After several years hiatus, and several months<br />

of renovations, Makalonca reopened in September 2009<br />

with much fanfare - and deservedly so, as it occupies one of<br />

the coolest locations in the Ljubljana. Located below street<br />

level along the Hribar Quay, it offers a quieter, more relaxed<br />

atmosphere than can be found at the strip of bars and cafés<br />

on the Ljubljanica’s oppo<strong>si</strong>te bank (or at least on nights when<br />

they forego the electronic mu<strong>si</strong>c). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03 95,<br />

www.neboticnik.<strong>si</strong>. There’s no better place in the city to enjoy<br />

a cocktail (or a beer or a cigar for that matter) than the recently<br />

reopened bar and lounge at the top of the Nebotičnik building.<br />

The 11th floor has been renovated in line with the original<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gn from back in 1933, meaning dark and atmospheric with<br />

lots of wood, stone and ample couches. While the 12th floor<br />

has a more modern feel to it, with white leather chairs and an<br />

open terrace offering unparalleled views of the city and beyond.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

nightLiFe<br />

Opera Bar C-3, Cankarjeva 12, tel. (+386) 14 21 03 90,<br />

terra.australis.opera@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.opera-bar.com. A<br />

bright, large, colourful space popular with many of the city’s<br />

more well-heeled re<strong>si</strong>dents, including those who like to attend<br />

the opera house across the street, Opera Bar is your<br />

clas<strong>si</strong>c café-bar. It brims with good-looking types drinking<br />

coffee during the day and something a little stronger later<br />

on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership explains the huge<br />

Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls. QOpen , Mon, Tue,<br />

Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 -<br />

18:00. PJHAEGBXS<br />

Pri Zelenem Zajcu D-5, Rožna 3, www.prizelenemzajcu.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

This is a good place to head to if you want to find a<br />

small non-pretentious bar where the locals are friendly. Slowly<br />

rotating disco lights and trance type mu<strong>si</strong>c give the Rabbit a<br />

bohemian feel and you can either head into the green gloom or<br />

grab a drink and perch yourself at one of the couple of outdoor<br />

tables. Recommend for students or those who once were<br />

students and want to feel like one again, even if only for an<br />

evening, or for those who’ve never drunk ab<strong>si</strong>nthe and would<br />

like to give it a go. Q Open Mon-Wed 09:00-24:00, Thur-Sat<br />

09:00-01:00. Closed Sun. JA6EGBXW<br />

Sputnik I-4, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 51 627 000,<br />

fax (+386) 12 56 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

sputnik.<strong>si</strong>. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro<br />

furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people <strong>si</strong>tting on it,<br />

ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses<br />

with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik<br />

transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier<br />

place with occa<strong>si</strong>onal special events. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00,<br />

Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.<br />

PA6ULEGBXW<br />

February - March 2011<br />

41


42 nightLiFe<br />

Žmauc B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 12 51 03 24. Ask<br />

any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and<br />

they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered<br />

in quality graffiti out<strong>si</strong>de and always featuring a huddle of<br />

interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large<br />

cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude<br />

to what’s in<strong>si</strong>de. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and<br />

night with more strange characters amidst an interior de<strong>si</strong>gn<br />

scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent<br />

for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.<br />

QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.<br />

PJA6GB<br />

Wine Bars<br />

Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the centuries in<br />

the country’s three wine growing regions producing a vast<br />

selection of excellent quality wines, predicate wines and<br />

sparkling wines. You can encounter all pleasures at any of<br />

the traditional gostilnas or wine cellars found in almost every<br />

street in Ljubljana. To make your choice ea<strong>si</strong>er try wines<br />

such as Teran, Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from<br />

the coastal region. Cviček, a Slovene wine with a light taste<br />

and low alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along<br />

with wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon,<br />

Chardonnay and Ranina.<br />

BEST OF 2011<br />

Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12<br />

57, guinnesspub@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.dvornibar.net. This<br />

large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day<br />

and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky<br />

jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while<br />

the other <strong>si</strong>de is a little more geared towards the restaurant<br />

crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a<br />

great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time<br />

to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and<br />

organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from<br />

20:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

(€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW<br />

eVino Bar M-2, Šmartinska 53, tel. (+386) 1 401<br />

8008, bar@evino.<strong>si</strong>, www.evino.<strong>si</strong>. Founded as a webonly<br />

venture back in 2005, eVino has <strong>si</strong>nce become one<br />

of the largest wine distributors in Slovenia, and now has<br />

its own wine bar where customers can sample the goods<br />

in a proper atmosphere before buying. In addition to the<br />

vast selection of wine - currently from nearly 100 producers<br />

representing over a dozen countries - they also offer<br />

a limited selection of premium spirits, some gourmet oils<br />

and vinegars, cigars and Antica coffee - a boutique brand<br />

widely con<strong>si</strong>dered to be one of the best in the world. They<br />

have wine tastings most Thursday nights. QOpen 10:00 -<br />

23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

PHALBS<br />

Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 48,<br />

movia@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.movia.<strong>si</strong>. The Slovenian Movia<br />

vineyards have been producing quality plonk for longer than<br />

anyone can remember, and this, their little showcase wine<br />

bar in the old town, is a fine place to come and try some of<br />

their excellent products. Found slightly hidden away in<strong>si</strong>de<br />

a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than a<br />

telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and even<br />

serves a selection of food especially prepared to compliment<br />

the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX<br />

Pubs<br />

Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. (+386) 1426 62<br />

93, www.guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to<br />

keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable<br />

cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard<br />

in the heart of the student district. Draught beers include<br />

Guinness plus Kilkenny and that old English 80s favourite,<br />

Woodpecker cider. Friendly and different enough to be worthy<br />

of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pub-crawl<br />

list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.<br />

PJA6UGBX<br />

Parlament Pub C-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 251 32<br />

43. Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar<br />

oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and<br />

(you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for<br />

the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and<br />

cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively<br />

international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to<br />

both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are<br />

at the back <strong>si</strong>de of the building on Plečnikov Trg. QOpen 06:00<br />

- 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW<br />

Patrick’s Irish Pub D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230<br />

17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric<br />

of a society, not least to the ba<strong>si</strong>c atmosphere of the clas<strong>si</strong>c<br />

Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog<br />

that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall<br />

atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals,<br />

expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite<br />

Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus<br />

there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7).<br />

PTJA6EGSW<br />

Premier Pub C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 17, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 52 31. A pleasant enough river<strong>si</strong>de café-bar with its<br />

very own whiskey bar, sport on the televi<strong>si</strong>on, postcards from<br />

friends who long <strong>si</strong>nce moved on and good outdoor seating<br />

when the weather’s right. Hardly the sort of place to spend<br />

and entire evening in, but worth checking out all the same if<br />

you’re planning on drinking yourself up and down both <strong>si</strong>des<br />

of the water for the evening. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 01:00. PJA6ULEGX<br />

Sir William’s Pub D-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. (+386) 5<br />

99 44 825, <strong>si</strong>rwilliamspub@gmail.com. An all together<br />

clas<strong>si</strong>er affair than most other pubs in town, Sir William’s clientele<br />

is largely a reflection of its location between the national<br />

courthouse and Radio Televi<strong>si</strong>on Slovenia, as well as several<br />

bu<strong>si</strong>ness hotels. Billed as a literary café, there’s a selection of<br />

English and Slovene language books to peruse or exchange<br />

for, and a variety of events including book readings, wine tastings<br />

and cultural evenings. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat<br />

10:00-14:00, 19:00-24:00, Sun 17:00-24:00.<br />

BEST OF 2011<br />

Zlata Ladjica C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 12 41<br />

06 96, info@zltim.<strong>si</strong>, www.zlataladjica.<strong>si</strong>. The ‘Golden<br />

Ship’ has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging,<br />

sails and a DJ booth in<strong>si</strong>de a wooden barrel, the rum selection<br />

is surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor<br />

in <strong>si</strong>ght, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs<br />

any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are<br />

also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments,<br />

and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. There’s often<br />

€3 drink specials at the weekend - check the <strong>si</strong>gns out<strong>si</strong>de<br />

for what’s on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

PTJA6UEGBKXSW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Rich Club<br />

nightLiFe<br />

February - March 2011<br />

43


44 nightLiFe<br />

Clubs<br />

Cvetličarna L-2, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) 59 02<br />

63 27, info@cvetlicarna.info, www.cvetlicarna.info.<br />

More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna<br />

is a good place to check out on Friday and Saturday<br />

nights. At other times it opens to host local and foreign<br />

bands, often well-known international and regional acts,<br />

as well as stand up comedians, including many English<br />

ones, on Mondays and some Tuesdays. The venue itself<br />

is big and the atmosphere is usually great. Check their<br />

web<strong>si</strong>te or Facebook page for a schedule of upcoming<br />

events.<br />

BEST OF 2011<br />

Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17<br />

063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com.<br />

As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally<br />

renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala<br />

hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per<br />

week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as<br />

a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system<br />

and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers<br />

and audiences, and from May till October a summer<br />

stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue,<br />

which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their<br />

web<strong>si</strong>te for a complete list of upcoming shows.<br />

Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61,<br />

info@klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. If you’re staying in a<br />

hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across<br />

the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the<br />

culprit can be found in<strong>si</strong>de Club K4. A very student-oriented<br />

club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the<br />

weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4<br />

also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Q<br />

Open Tue from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00, Sun from 22:00.<br />

Mon closed. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €7. PJAG<br />

Klub Top A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 66 77 22,<br />

info@klubtop.<strong>si</strong>, www.klubtop.<strong>si</strong>. Located on the top floor<br />

of the Nama department store in the centre of Ljubljana (hence<br />

the name), out<strong>si</strong>de it offers some of the best views in the<br />

city, while in<strong>si</strong>de the contemporary interior de<strong>si</strong>gn provides<br />

an exclu<strong>si</strong>ve ambience that can’t be found elsewhere. There<br />

is a full slate of parties throughout the week, with Tuesdays<br />

being student’s night, Wednesdays dedicated to RnB, private<br />

corporate events on Thursdays, serious clubber beats on<br />

Fridays and Black Magic/White House nights every Saturday,<br />

when guests are encouraged to wear masks. Q Lounge open<br />

Mon-Fri 08:30-20:00. Club open Tues-Sat 23:00-05:00.<br />

Closed Sundays. Admis<strong>si</strong>on: Free before 24:00 and €6 after.<br />

PJAEGBKW<br />

The selection of beer at Sir William’s Pub is hard to beat<br />

Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16<br />

74, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar and live mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious<br />

world of rock mu<strong>si</strong>c, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd<br />

in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking<br />

advantage of one of the few regular live mu<strong>si</strong>c venues in<br />

the city. The bar is worth vi<strong>si</strong>ting on its own. Long and thin,<br />

there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving<br />

the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. Q Open Mon-Wed<br />

08:00-04:00, Thur-Sat 08:00-05:00 and Sun 18:00-21:00.<br />

PALEGBX<br />

Rich Club I-4, Tržaška 118, tel. (+386) 41 826 001,<br />

richclub.lj@gmail.com. Ljubljana’s newest club is located in<br />

the neighbourhood of Vič southwest of the city centre, in an<br />

area that has become something of a nightlife hotspot in recent<br />

years with several bars and clubs within walking distance. As<br />

it’s name implies, Rich Club has a dress code, glossy interior<br />

and parking lot packed with <strong>si</strong>x-figure cars at the weekends.<br />

The mu<strong>si</strong>c alternates between house, techno and current pop<br />

hits, with frequent Balkan nights and special guest DJs thrown<br />

into the mix as well. Q Open Mon-Thur 06:00-22:00, Fri-Sat<br />

06:00-04:00, Sun 13:00-22:00.<br />

Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 51 210 000, info@<br />

ultra-club.<strong>si</strong>, www.ultra-club.<strong>si</strong>. One of the only proper<br />

clubs located directly in the city centre, you’re almost guaranteed<br />

to find a party raging here until the wee hours most<br />

nights of the week. DJs, theme nights and live concerts from<br />

some of the region’s biggest stars are the norm here, and<br />

scantily-clad Go-Go dancers are usually on hand to liven up<br />

the atmosphere. A full assortment of drinks and cocktails is<br />

a available, but for locals it’s perhaps even more popular to<br />

order vodka, whisky or other spirits by the bottle. QOpen<br />

20.00 - 06.00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJAG<br />

Billiards, Bowling, etc.<br />

Biljardna Hiša C-1, Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 12<br />

36 20 12, qb@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.biljardna-hisa.com.<br />

Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes<br />

walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Con<strong>si</strong>sting<br />

of one large open space underneath exposed wood<br />

rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty<br />

much exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s<br />

also a large glass-enclosed self-service smoking<br />

area - although unfortunately they have yet to cram<br />

any pool tables in there. You can expect at least a<br />

short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget<br />

to get your name on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />

ALX<br />

Klub 300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1 510 39<br />

40, fax (+386) 1 510 39 41, info@bowlingklub300.<br />

com, www.bowlingklub300.com. If it’s a good time<br />

you need, Klub 300 is a friend indeed any day of the<br />

week. Order a ‘žirafa’ for the group (a 3-litre long tube<br />

of bubbling local beer which allows you to pour your<br />

own draught) and take on your friends or colleagues at<br />

the bowling alley, or a game of pool. At the weekends<br />

there’s Cosmic Bowling in the evening with well-known<br />

local DJs (reservations are pretty much a must). The VIP<br />

room is especially suited for bu<strong>si</strong>ness meetings who<br />

want to mix work with a bit of fun, and there’s even an<br />

Italian restaurant downstairs.QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />

14:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />

PALGK<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


46 nightLiFe<br />

www.ultra-club.<strong>si</strong><br />

Best party in centre of Ljubljana<br />

Ultra People, Ultra place, Ultra mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

Ultra Live Concerts, Ultra GoGo girls,<br />

Ultra Djs, Ultra party, Ultra drinks,...<br />

EVERYTHING is ULTRA<br />

ULTRA CLUB, Nazorjeva 6, 1000 Ljubljana<br />

+386 51 210000 & info@ultra-club.<strong>si</strong><br />

Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52. While<br />

Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugoslavian<br />

days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes of the many<br />

cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati Zob the city’s<br />

new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the form of a <strong>si</strong>nger’s<br />

wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The cafe/club’s interior,<br />

full of Balkan artifacts and traditional instruments hanging off<br />

the walls, hints at the raucous nights of mu<strong>si</strong>c and dancing that<br />

occur when the sun goes down and various regional artists and<br />

DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 -<br />

03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PALEGBXW<br />

Turbo Folk<br />

En Pub H-1, Celovška 150, tel. (+386) 15 14 11 26,<br />

info@enpub.<strong>si</strong>, www.enpub.<strong>si</strong>. The true sounds of the<br />

suburbs echo around the walls of this extraordinary little<br />

place practically non-stop. Leave your gun in the car, clear<br />

security and the metal detector, and you’re free to indulge<br />

your wildest wishes. Every night is different, from hopelessly<br />

sentimental romantic nights of ballads to all-night DJ parties<br />

featuring the clas<strong>si</strong>c Turbo Folk girls. Refreshment features<br />

everything from bottles of ice-cold local beer to cocktails<br />

to ice cream, and they even do sandwiches and coffee for<br />

party animals who’ve moved on to other places that stay<br />

open even longer and come back again early in the morning.<br />

For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub <strong>si</strong>mply has to<br />

be experienced to be believed. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Thu<br />

06:30 - 03:00, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 24:00.PTA6ULGBXW<br />

Klub 12 Prušnikova 95/(+386) 041 67 85 77, www.<br />

klub-12.com. Turbo Folk’s clas<strong>si</strong>c Ljubljana after-party venue<br />

is a good few kilometres from the city centre and doesn’t<br />

see a <strong>si</strong>ngle client until around 04:00, but that’s all part of<br />

the fun really. After the other venues have closed their doors<br />

the deal is to pile into this dark underground cavern with its<br />

strange red lighting, pictures of naked women with bows and<br />

arrows on the walls and excruciatingly loud mu<strong>si</strong>c and carry<br />

on with the party. This is hedonism at its very best, to the<br />

point that many of the true hardcore followers of the faith<br />

scrabble out of here blurry eyed in the morning and start<br />

all over again. Unmisable for those who know and love how<br />

to party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00.<br />

PALEGX<br />

Jazz Clubs<br />

Mons Jazz Club G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386)<br />

1470 27 00, fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.<br />

mons.<strong>si</strong>, www.mons.<strong>si</strong>. One of the city’s top jazz<br />

venues. Every month or so the Mons hotel hosts top<br />

quality jazz featuring some of Europe’s finest performers.<br />

If you live in town or are a regular vi<strong>si</strong>tor, buy the<br />

season ticket” valid for all concer ts over the year.<br />

PAULGW<br />

Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) 1283 14 57.<br />

This is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his<br />

great aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffitispattered<br />

nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans,<br />

but in Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly<br />

small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls<br />

and a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus<br />

once referred to as black clas<strong>si</strong>cal mu<strong>si</strong>c. Most of the time<br />

the mu<strong>si</strong>c is pre-recorded, but they do have the occa<strong>si</strong>onal<br />

live band in from time to time. Call to see what’s on. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.<br />

JA6LEGBD<br />

Ca<strong>si</strong>nos<br />

The automated ca<strong>si</strong>no, or gaming saloon, has arrived in<br />

a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but<br />

no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get<br />

in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry<br />

ID to enter.<br />

Ca<strong>si</strong>no Kongo Ljubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje,<br />

tel. (+386) 1781 02 00, info@kongo-hc.com, www.<br />

kongo-hc.com. An African-themed gaming hall with<br />

electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once<br />

in<strong>si</strong>de, soft drinks and food are on the house, though<br />

there are two African restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ selfservice<br />

buffet) on <strong>si</strong>te too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />

12:00 - 02:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €10 (includes gambling tickets).<br />

POAULEGBKXW<br />

BEST OF 2011<br />

Ca<strong>si</strong>no Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386)<br />

1 518 56 46, ca<strong>si</strong>no.lev@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.ca<strong>si</strong>nolev.com.<br />

Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking<br />

waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of<br />

the same name. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. No admis<strong>si</strong>on fee.<br />

POJHAULEG<br />

Ca<strong>si</strong>no Rio J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520<br />

5650, info@ca<strong>si</strong>no-rio.<strong>si</strong>, www.ca<strong>si</strong>no-rio.<strong>si</strong>. A nonstop<br />

gambling saloon in<strong>si</strong>de the Arena entertainment<br />

centre. Four electronic roulette tables and over 150 other<br />

gaming machines vie for your euros. Food and drinks<br />

are served, and there’s occa<strong>si</strong>onal entertainment too.<br />

Q Open 24hrs. No admis<strong>si</strong>on. POAG<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make<br />

space for sexy and <strong>si</strong>nful late night entertainment for<br />

adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are<br />

several strip clubs in Ljubljana that have recently sprung<br />

up around the city displaying a diver<strong>si</strong>ty of foreign girls<br />

for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you<br />

company if you buy them an (expen<strong>si</strong>ve) drink, and we<br />

mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs<br />

usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit.<br />

Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74.<br />

On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings<br />

are con<strong>si</strong>stent with the rock club atmosphere that<br />

is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease,<br />

but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus<br />

here with private dances available at your table or in one<br />

of the back rooms. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €16.<br />

PJAG<br />

BEST OF 2011<br />

Hard Core Club G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41 71<br />

66 12, info@hardcorecafe.<strong>si</strong>, www.hardcorecafe.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a<br />

taxi and head here. The concept is <strong>si</strong>mple: outstanding erotic<br />

entertainment provided by prefes<strong>si</strong>onals in a safe environment<br />

for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody<br />

pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is<br />

always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is<br />

free. Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and<br />

the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher<br />

phwoar category then elsewhere. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00.<br />

Closed Sun. PJAG<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

AduLt entertAinment<br />

Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11<br />

48, ecarte@<strong>si</strong>ol.net. The most centrally-located adult<br />

entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel<br />

Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who<br />

you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless<br />

cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered<br />

here, when the women are not dancing they are available for<br />

some personal interaction. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PY�<br />

JAEGBXSW<br />

Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18),<br />

tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com, www.<br />

latino-nightclub.com. With unlimited free drinks included in<br />

the price of admis<strong>si</strong>on, Ljubljana’s best nightclub is a great<br />

place to party in the company of girls from around the world.<br />

As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are Dominican<br />

but there are also some Thai and Eastern European girls for<br />

the sake of variety. Every Friday there’s a special show, usually<br />

featuring a couple large snakes or girl-on-girl preformance,<br />

and package deals are also available for groups. Located<br />

underneath the Arena Centre in BTC. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.<br />

Admis<strong>si</strong>on is €20 on weekdays and €30 at the weekends,<br />

which includes unlimited drinks. PALG<br />

Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, info@tangaclub.com, www.<br />

tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the center of<br />

town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so definitely<br />

bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs from the<br />

bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space with<br />

a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full of<br />

drinks and services. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Free admis<strong>si</strong>on.<br />

PALG<br />

February - March 2011<br />

47


48 gAy & LesbiAn<br />

Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian<br />

movement in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and<br />

<strong>si</strong>nce then has maintained an active GLBT community<br />

with many well-organised groups promoting gay rights and<br />

culture. Last year marked the official 25th anniversary<br />

of the movement in Slovenia, and saw some important<br />

events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre in<br />

Metelkova. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana<br />

a gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more<br />

apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright<br />

violence are not unheard of.<br />

Cafés<br />

Café Open D-5, Hrenova 19, tel. (+386) 41 391 371,<br />

info@open.<strong>si</strong>, www.open.<strong>si</strong>/cafe-open/. Some places<br />

try a little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but<br />

this coffee shop isn’t one of them. A gay and lesbian owned<br />

café near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old<br />

town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy,<br />

and there’s usually good mu<strong>si</strong>c drifting out of the speakers<br />

above. Three to four times per week it hosts cultural events<br />

with round tables, including mu<strong>si</strong>c, literature evenings, classes<br />

and open mike. Check their web<strong>si</strong>te for details of upcoming<br />

events. Q Open Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat 09:00-24:00,<br />

Sun 09:00-22:00.<br />

Nightlife<br />

K4 Roza C-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 14 38 02 61,<br />

fax (+386) 14 38 03 01. On some Saturdays and Sundays,<br />

this popular gay-friendly club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in<br />

Slovene) hosts gay and lesbian nights under its alternate<br />

personality, Roza Klub - which is also an independent political<br />

organisation and one of the driving forces behind the Gay and<br />

Lesbian Film Festival and Pride week. See our full review of<br />

K4 under clubs in the Nightlife section. Q Open Tue & Sun<br />

from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00. Mon closed. Closed during<br />

July and August.<br />

Q Cultural Centre F-1, Masarykova 24 (Metelkova),<br />

tel. (+386) 14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@gmail.com,<br />

http://www.kulturnicenterq.org/en/. Officially opened<br />

on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary of the the<br />

gay rights movement in Slovenia, the centre has roots going<br />

all the way back to 1993. It’s a joint project of ŠKUC - one<br />

of Slovenia’s largest arts and cultural organisations, and a<br />

leading proponent of gay rights - and two long-running gay<br />

and lesbian clubs, Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on<br />

the same premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion<br />

of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events<br />

such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances,<br />

exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both clubs also<br />

host parties every Friday (and sometimes on Saturday) night<br />

from around 20:00 till late.<br />

Resources<br />

SiQRD (Slovenian Queer Resources Directory)<br />

, www.ljudmila.org/<strong>si</strong>qrd/. A comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve <strong>si</strong>te for all<br />

things GLBT in Slovenia, with English listings for organisations,<br />

events and venues as well as a concise historical<br />

overview of the gay and lesbian movement (and homophobia)<br />

in Slovenia.<br />

Slovenia for Gay Travelers Tel. (+386) 51 877<br />

245, sloveniaforgaytravelers@yahoo.com, www.<br />

sloveniaforgaytravelers.com. As the name suggests,<br />

these guys specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and<br />

accommodation for vi<strong>si</strong>tors in Slovenia. Their English<br />

language web<strong>si</strong>te is immensely helpful and a good place<br />

to start if you’re interested in planning a trip or just finding<br />

out a bit more about gay culture in the country. A room<br />

in Ljubljana’s only gay owned and operated guest house<br />

(SOMI Rooms) can be booked directly from the web<strong>si</strong>te,<br />

and they have also put together a comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve gay<br />

guide to all of Slovenia - although out<strong>si</strong>de of the capital<br />

the pickings are rather slim.<br />

Saunas & Massage<br />

Gymna<strong>si</strong>vm Sauna K-1, Pohorskega Bataljona 34,<br />

tel. (+386) 15 34 24 85, gymna<strong>si</strong>um@volja.net, www.<br />

klub-libero.<strong>si</strong>. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring<br />

road, Gymna<strong>si</strong>vm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a<br />

converted house in a mixed re<strong>si</strong>dential and industrial area. In<br />

addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV<br />

lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6,<br />

8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place,<br />

and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules<br />

can be found in English on their web<strong>si</strong>te. Q Mon-Thu 15:00-<br />

22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed. During summer<br />

17:00-23:00 Mon-Sat.<br />

Thai Sabai D-1, Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 31 00<br />

75, thaisabai.<strong>si</strong>.info@gmail.com, www.thaisabai.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Gay-friendly Thai massage parlour just north of the city<br />

centre - right next to the hideous Delo building. They provide<br />

a variety of traditional massages at competitive prices, and<br />

all their masseurs are certified by the Thai Ministry of Public<br />

Health. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />

Sun. (€25-55).<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


This golden fountain is the highlight of one of our favourite squares in the city, Ribji Trg<br />

Tourist information<br />

Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre<br />

(Turistični Informacijski Center) D-3, Adamič-<br />

Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, fax<br />

(+386) 13 06 12 04, tic@vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. A small but extremely well equipped<br />

resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English,<br />

information about what‘s on in the city and a range of<br />

information on what to see and do in the region. They<br />

also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and<br />

should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive.<br />

Their web<strong>si</strong>te is one of the best we‘ve seen in Central<br />

Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly,<br />

informative staff too. Q Open October-May 08:00-<br />

19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. Also at the bus<br />

and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00-22:00,<br />

Oct-May 10:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday<br />

Closed) 22 Dec 2009-2 Jan 2010 Monday to Saturday<br />

08:00-21:00.<br />

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC)<br />

C-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1 306 45 75, fax<br />

(+386) 1 306 45 80, stic@vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>tljubljana.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit<br />

larger and usually less crowded than the main branch<br />

located a few hundred metres away oppo<strong>si</strong>te Prešeren<br />

Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps,<br />

brochures and general information for the entire country.<br />

Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased,<br />

and the staff will gladly give you a run down of<br />

the various tours and excur<strong>si</strong>ons on offer. Bicycle rentals<br />

are also available for only €5 per day, and are a great way<br />

to see more of the city.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

whAt to see<br />

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for vi<strong>si</strong>tors<br />

to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to<br />

Ljubljana‘s multitude of museums and galleries are more than<br />

worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination<br />

of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik‘s to the historic<br />

atmosphere of the Old Town to the occa<strong>si</strong>onal blast-to-thepast<br />

burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in<br />

harmony to create the most unique of cities.<br />

Bridges<br />

Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) D-4. Another<br />

Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after<br />

the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars<br />

of various <strong>si</strong>zes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps,<br />

others <strong>si</strong>mply holding stone balls in the air.<br />

Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge) D-3. Connecting<br />

the magnificent colonnaded Tržnica covered market with<br />

Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the oppo<strong>si</strong>te bank, the bridge<br />

had been part architect Jože Plečnik’s original plans in the<br />

1930s, but was never built due to the outbreak of World War<br />

II. Finally opened in July 2010, the bridge remains somewhat<br />

controver<strong>si</strong>al due to it’s modern style (Plečnik had envi<strong>si</strong>oned<br />

something of <strong>si</strong>milar appearence to the adjecent market), as<br />

well as the grotesque sculptures by Slovene artist Jakov Brdar<br />

that were commis<strong>si</strong>oned to decorate the structure. Soon after<br />

the bridge opened, it also became home to the endearing<br />

and decidely uncontrover<strong>si</strong>al tradition of couples locking ‘love<br />

padlocks’ along the length of its steel wires.<br />

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) D-3. Perhaps Ljubljana’s<br />

most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious<br />

merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a<br />

medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gned by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the<br />

whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

49


50 whAt to see<br />

Top 5 <strong>si</strong>ghts (other than the castle)<br />

Franciscan Church<br />

( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i<br />

Samostan) B - 3 ,<br />

Prešernov Trg 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 1242 93 00.<br />

Built in an instantly recognisable,<br />

mildly swirly Baroque<br />

fashion, Ljubljana’s<br />

mid-16th-century Franciscan<br />

Church dominates<br />

Prešernov Trg like a big<br />

pink birthday cake. Part<br />

of a larger complex with<br />

an additional Franciscan<br />

monastery, if you’re lucky<br />

enough to find the doors<br />

unlocked expect a few<br />

D.Silpa<br />

treats in<strong>si</strong>de including<br />

Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating<br />

from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing<br />

a cross de<strong>si</strong>gned by none other than Jože Plečnik. For<br />

those who don’t appreciate the finer points of eccle<strong>si</strong>astic<br />

architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place<br />

to <strong>si</strong>t and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Mestni Tr g (Town<br />

Square) B-3, The centre<br />

of medieval Ljubljana, the<br />

town’s main square was<br />

damaged in the 1511 earthquake<br />

and subsequently<br />

rebuilt in Baroque style. The<br />

square houses the Town<br />

Hall, City Art Museum, the<br />

decorated 16th century Lichtenberg<br />

house and the<br />

Souvan house with its Empire<br />

façade.<br />

P r e š e r n o v Tr g<br />

(Prešeren Square)<br />

D-3. Formally a meeting<br />

place for several roads<br />

in front of one of the<br />

old entrance gates to<br />

the city, and a public<br />

square <strong>si</strong>nce Ljubljana‘s<br />

original defen<strong>si</strong>ve walls<br />

were torn down in the<br />

middle of the 19th century,<br />

this is one of the<br />

city‘s most important<br />

landmarks. Named after<br />

Slovenia‘s national poet<br />

France Prešeren (German,<br />

Franz Prescheren,<br />

1800-1849), it‘s both a<br />

popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of<br />

the man after whom the square is named) and a <strong>si</strong>te for<br />

concerts and events during the summer. The charming<br />

little public space is ringed by a number of interesting<br />

<strong>si</strong>ghts including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of<br />

the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20thcentury<br />

flamboyance and <strong>si</strong>te of the soon to be reopened<br />

Centromerkur department store.<br />

Tivoli Park A-1/2.<br />

Tivoli is where the people<br />

of Ljubljana who<br />

don’t leave the city<br />

spend the weekend.<br />

Laid out in 1813 as<br />

a place for the general<br />

health and recreation<br />

of the city’s<br />

population, at some<br />

five square kilometres,<br />

Ljubljana’s gargantuan<br />

bucolic lung - literally<br />

Man<strong>si</strong>on-LTB-archive<br />

two streets west of<br />

the city centre - is so<br />

packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>ting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst<br />

rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics<br />

encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world),<br />

pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for<br />

the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best<br />

way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available<br />

for rent from various points throughout the park during the<br />

summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will<br />

bring the bike back.<br />

As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area,<br />

Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural <strong>si</strong>ghts including<br />

the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious<br />

17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Man<strong>si</strong>on), the Museum<br />

of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern<br />

reaches, in an area de<strong>si</strong>gnated as a nature reserve, the<br />

city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to<br />

Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an<br />

early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene<br />

national identity.<br />

Z m a j s k i M o s t<br />

(Dragon Bridge)<br />

Kopitarjeva Ulica.<br />

Since i t opened in<br />

1901, Zmajski Most<br />

has been locked in<br />

a fierce competition<br />

with the castle and<br />

the conspicuously pink<br />

Franciscan Church for<br />

the title of Most Photographed<br />

Sight in<br />

Ljubljana. At any given<br />

moment during daylight<br />

hours (and only<br />

slightly less frequently<br />

at night) there is sure<br />

to be at least a person<br />

or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding<br />

either <strong>si</strong>de of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn<br />

the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no<br />

exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we<br />

snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten<br />

days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste<br />

apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a<br />

certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a<br />

smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury<br />

is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it<br />

does amuse us whenever we walk past.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


52 whAt to see<br />

Buildings<br />

Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) D-3/4, Mestni Trg 1. The<br />

15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages,<br />

and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the<br />

original medieval coat of arms on the building. In<strong>si</strong>de, you can<br />

view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet<br />

hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.<br />

Q Guided tours €2.<br />

National Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Library (Narodna in Univerzitetna<br />

Knjižnica) C-4, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1 200<br />

11 88, www.nuk.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Known to locals by its Slovene<br />

acronym NUK, the library was originally established by Empress<br />

Maria Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plečnik<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gned building in 1941. A<strong>si</strong>de from serving as one of the<br />

country’s central educational and cultural institutions - containing<br />

some 2.6 million volumes -it’s also con<strong>si</strong>dered one of the<br />

prolific architect’s most monumental works, and is a must<br />

see for vi<strong>si</strong>tors to Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat<br />

schizophrenic brick and stone façade, the colonnaded central<br />

staircase and the mas<strong>si</strong>ve main reading room. A planned<br />

expan<strong>si</strong>on on nearby Zoisova Cesta has been in the works for<br />

nearly 20 years, but has been plagued by a host of problems<br />

- most notably caused by the discovery of Roman ruins, which<br />

is a surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly common occurrence in and around the city.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) C-3, Štefanova 1. Believe it<br />

or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one<br />

of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933.<br />

The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after<br />

being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the<br />

best views in the city.<br />

The Plečnik-de<strong>si</strong>gned arcade at the entrance to Žale,<br />

Ljubljana’s main cemetery, photo by B. Jakše & S. Jeršič<br />

Cemeteries<br />

Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) L/M-2, Med<br />

Hmeljniki 2, tel. (+386) 1420 17 00, www.zale.<strong>si</strong>. Built<br />

on the <strong>si</strong>te of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring<br />

(and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably<br />

Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The<br />

grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades<br />

supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the<br />

living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself<br />

are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments<br />

including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound,<br />

reflecting Plečnik’s vi<strong>si</strong>on of equality among religions. The<br />

cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold<br />

and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place<br />

of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find<br />

a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />

Tours<br />

Unique Slovenia Rakovnik 132, Medvode,<br />

tel. (+386) 1 361 62 44/(+386) 31 519 336,<br />

info@unique-slovenia.<strong>si</strong>, www.unique-slovenia.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. As one of the world‘s most geographically diverse<br />

countries, Slovenia offers almost limitless<br />

pos<strong>si</strong>bilities for would-be vi<strong>si</strong>tors - and no one is<br />

better at arranging custom tours than the team at<br />

Unique Slovenia. From the standard trips to Bled and<br />

Ljubljana to wine tours and fly fishing to boat trips<br />

and helicopter rides, they can arrange pretty much<br />

anything you can think of and then some. Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />

and VIP services are also one of their specialities,<br />

with everything including limou<strong>si</strong>nes and private jets<br />

available.<br />

Turag4all Tel. (+386) 30 641 440, info@turag4all.<br />

eu, www.turag4all.eu. The first travel agency in Slovenia<br />

that is specialised in acces<strong>si</strong>ble tourism for people<br />

with special needs, Turag4All (or the Tourist Agency for<br />

All) was organised by the Slovenian Association for Mental<br />

Health in cooperation with both the National Tourist<br />

Association and the Institute for Counselling, Promotion<br />

and Development of Acces<strong>si</strong>ble Tourism. Its aim is to<br />

contribute to the development of tourism for people<br />

with special needs by combining supply and demand<br />

for disabled-friendly tourists and creating a network of<br />

disabled-friendly tourist suppliers. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Churches<br />

As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts<br />

a number of famous churches dating far back to<br />

the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian<br />

architecture. A<strong>si</strong>de from during mass, most of the main<br />

churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.<br />

Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) D-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel.<br />

(+386) 1231 06 84. With its clas<strong>si</strong>c twin towers and trademark<br />

<strong>si</strong>ngle, weather-worn green dome, the city‘s cathedral,<br />

more properly known as St Nicholas‘ Church, encapsulates<br />

everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too<br />

exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer<br />

details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the <strong>si</strong>te<br />

of a much earlier church, the cathedral‘s main structure and<br />

appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century.<br />

In<strong>si</strong>de the Baroque masterpiece‘s pink shell is a cavalcade<br />

of clas<strong>si</strong>c creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily<br />

detailed frescoes and posses<strong>si</strong>ng that calming feeling that<br />

only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the<br />

ornate choir stalls and Robba‘s maginficent angels on the<br />

main altar. Don‘t forget to check out the astonishing pair of<br />

bronze doors on the western and southern <strong>si</strong>des. Dating<br />

from 1996 and commis<strong>si</strong>oned to celebrate John Paul II‘s<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>t to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of<br />

Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting <strong>si</strong>x cardinals<br />

in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history<br />

of the diocese of the city.<br />

Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) B-2,<br />

Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built along<strong>si</strong>de the<br />

southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the<br />

city‘s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church<br />

complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth<br />

vi<strong>si</strong>ting during services, daily at 10:00.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


54 whAt to see<br />

Enjoy spectacular views of the city while riding the funicular<br />

railway up to the castle, photo courtesy of Festival Ljubljana.<br />

Monuments<br />

France Prešeren D-3. Slovenia‘s national poet France<br />

Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his<br />

honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an<br />

interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal<br />

point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the<br />

large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and<br />

sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a<br />

small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts<br />

from his writing around the base.<br />

Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak) D-3, Mestni Trg.<br />

One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751<br />

fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor<br />

Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The<br />

Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba‘s<br />

Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it<br />

essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for<br />

Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the<br />

artist‘s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly<br />

representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.<br />

Museums & Galleries<br />

City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) C-4, Gosposka<br />

15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mm-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

mm-lj.<strong>si</strong>. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians<br />

who know how to show people a good time, showca<strong>si</strong>ng<br />

Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.<br />

Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this<br />

is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history.<br />

Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate<br />

costumes, old photographs and much more be<strong>si</strong>des. Check<br />

out the fabulous little web<strong>si</strong>te for upcoming exhibitions.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €4/2,50.<br />

English-language guided tours Sun at 13:00.<br />

Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše<br />

Zgodovine) B-1, Celovška 23, tel. (+386) 13 00 96<br />

10, uprava@muzej-nz.<strong>si</strong>, www.muzej-nz.<strong>si</strong>. If you needed<br />

a reason to vi<strong>si</strong>t Tivoli Park, it‘s here. This fascinating museum<br />

in<strong>si</strong>de a wonderful 18th-century man<strong>si</strong>on presents the<br />

history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI<br />

until independence in 1991. U<strong>si</strong>ng a combination of wellpresented<br />

exhibits including old photographs, clothing and<br />

household items the museum charts the often wobbly path<br />

of the nation through and between the two world wars and<br />

the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years.<br />

The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous<br />

combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist<br />

work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991.<br />

Q Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:00-20:00. Closed<br />

Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €7/3.50.<br />

International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni<br />

Grafični Likovni Center) A-2, Pod Turnom 3, tel.<br />

(+386) 1241 38 00, lili.sturm@mglc-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.mglc-lj.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. Located in<strong>si</strong>de the gorgeous 17th-century Tivoli Man<strong>si</strong>on,<br />

this must-see attraction for anyone with even a pas<strong>si</strong>ng interesting<br />

in the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints<br />

and over 4000 artist‘s books and other printed ephemera,<br />

mostly from the second half of the 20th century onwards and<br />

including the work of many of the great masters of European<br />

graphic arts. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open<br />

Monday to Friday 09:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun & holidays.<br />

Admis<strong>si</strong>on €3.40/1.70. During the Biennial €6/3.<br />

Modern Gallery (Moderna Galerija) B-3, Tomšičeva<br />

14, tel. (+386) 12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.mg-lj.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar‘s<br />

Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public.<br />

Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city‘s<br />

excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of<br />

Slovenian and international 20th-century art. Q Open Tues-<br />

Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €5 for<br />

adults, €2.50 for students/pen<strong>si</strong>oners. No admis<strong>si</strong>on fee first<br />

Sunday of every month.<br />

National Galler y<br />

(Narodna Galerija)<br />

B/C-2, Prešernova 24,<br />

tel. (+386) 1241 54 18,<br />

info@ng-slo.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

ng-slo.<strong>si</strong>. In<strong>si</strong>de Czech architect<br />

František Edmund<br />

Škabrout‘s fabulous late<br />

19th-century neo-Renaissance<br />

masterpiece<br />

LTB-archive with an additional modern<br />

wing thrown on for good<br />

measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in<br />

Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the<br />

20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as<br />

Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and<br />

Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition<br />

in the building focuses on European painting, and includes<br />

some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian<br />

painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th<br />

century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has<br />

several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €7/3.50.<br />

National Museum (Narodni Muzej) B-3, Prešernova<br />

20, tel. (+386) 12 41 44 00, info@nms.<strong>si</strong>, www.narmuzlj.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Found lurking in<strong>si</strong>de another of the city‘s fine, late<br />

19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine<br />

painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


INFORMACIJE<br />

Zavod za kulturo in turizem Kostel<br />

Fara 30<br />

1336 Kostel<br />

01/894 80 70, info@kostel.<strong>si</strong><br />

Delovni čas:<br />

Vsak dan od 9.00 do 15.00 ali<br />

po predhodnem dogovoru.<br />

Turistična kmetija LUKČEVA DOMAČIJA<br />

Vrh pri Fari 1<br />

1336 Kostel<br />

T: 031 285 723<br />

bine.likar@amis.net<br />

Občina Kostel<br />

KOSTEL, Dežela vode<br />

Doživite zdravilno pokrajino za telo, dušo in duha<br />

v različnih programih Svet Kolpe.<br />

Kmetija z nastanitvijo »PRI PAPEŽEVIH«<br />

Banja loka 19,<br />

1336 Kostel,<br />

T: 041 792 816<br />

alojzij.selan@kmetija-papez.com<br />

Izletniška kmetija PADOVAC<br />

Selo pri Kostelu 3<br />

1336 Kostel<br />

T: 031 33 86 45<br />

kmetija.padovac@gmail.com


56 whAt to see<br />

is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841.<br />

Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated<br />

to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language along<strong>si</strong>de the<br />

usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a<br />

large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework<br />

dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding<br />

regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on<br />

€3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.<br />

Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej)<br />

B-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 12 41 09 40, uprava@<br />

pms-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www2.pms-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Attached to Ljubljana‘s National<br />

Museum, the Natural History Museum isn‘t the best in the<br />

world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities<br />

to beat the rainy blues away or to <strong>si</strong>mply keep the children<br />

amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of<br />

shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones,<br />

the human fish is perhaps the museum‘s strangest display.<br />

Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, the little<br />

proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found exclu<strong>si</strong>vely in a<br />

relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia<br />

and Herzegovina. The gift shop features a handful of fun<br />

things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur<br />

kits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admis<strong>si</strong>on<br />

€3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.<br />

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski<br />

Muzej) F-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00,<br />

etnomuz@etno-muzej.<strong>si</strong>, www.etno-muzej.<strong>si</strong>. The<br />

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum “about<br />

people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between<br />

the past and the present, between our own and other cultures,<br />

between nature and civilisation. A central museum of<br />

ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable<br />

with dedicated public services. The museum is located in<br />

a new urban cultural centre of Ljubljana known as part of<br />

former military barracks of the Metelkova area, which have<br />

undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form<br />

the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent<br />

exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other<br />

events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM presents<br />

and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other<br />

cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find<br />

the entrance in the large square at the back of the building.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis<strong>si</strong>on €4.50/2.50<br />

(adults/students).<br />

Parks & Gardens<br />

Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) L-4, Ižanska 15,<br />

tel. (+386) 14 27 12 80, botanicni.vrt@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.<br />

botanicni-vrt.<strong>si</strong>. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part<br />

of the biology department of Ljubljana Univer<strong>si</strong>ty and has 2<br />

hectares of protected landscape, with over 4500 species<br />

of native and foreign plants. Guided tours of groups over 15<br />

people are pos<strong>si</strong>ble for a small fee and when booked 10<br />

days in advance. Q Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00.<br />

Admis<strong>si</strong>on free.<br />

Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) I-3, Večna Pot 70, tel.<br />

(+386) 12 44 21 88, info@zoo.<strong>si</strong>, www.zoo.<strong>si</strong>. A large<br />

complex with a good variety of native and foreign animals,<br />

the zoo makes for an excellent day out with the kids. A<br />

pleasant 30 minute walk through leafy re<strong>si</strong>dential neighbourhoods<br />

from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23.<br />

Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays<br />

from 21:00-23:00. Q Open daily 09:00-17:00 in October,<br />

09:00-16:00 in November. Admis<strong>si</strong>on: €6/4.50/3.55/1<br />

for adults/school-children/pre-schoolers/pets, free for<br />

children under 2.<br />

Ljubljana Castle<br />

Ljubljana Castle<br />

(Ljubljanski Grad)<br />

D-4, Grajska Planota<br />

1, tel. (+386)<br />

12 32 99 94, info@<br />

ljubljanafestival.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.ljubljanafestival.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Perched on top<br />

of Castle Hill (Grajska<br />

Planota) and dominating<br />

the city skyline to<br />

the south, Ljubljana’s<br />

magnificent castle<br />

stands on the <strong>si</strong>te of<br />

several former defen<strong>si</strong>ve<br />

buildings in a hilly<br />

area of land stretching<br />

away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble<br />

of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century<br />

reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511,<br />

with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel<br />

Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a<br />

royal re<strong>si</strong>dence and a military barracks over the centuries.<br />

The current main points of interest for the vi<strong>si</strong>tor are<br />

both located in<strong>si</strong>de the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp),<br />

built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by<br />

the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum<br />

screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of<br />

special glasses and a headset for an English translation,<br />

showing an interesting and informative history of the<br />

castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes<br />

you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron<br />

steps, each individually decorated with an image of the<br />

tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to<br />

a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with<br />

wonderful views of the city.<br />

Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of<br />

stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the<br />

courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela<br />

sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in the Baroque<br />

style, the chapel is interesting for its 15th-century wall<br />

paintings and not a lot more. The castle also has a small<br />

art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, souvenir<br />

shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet Museum. It’s<br />

also a popular place for local weddings, and during the<br />

summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular<br />

outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up<br />

from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet<br />

Theatre. Q Winter Hours: (through 30.4)”<br />

Castle & Café 10:00-21:00 daily<br />

Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum 10:00-18:00 daily<br />

Funicular Railway 10:00-21:00 daily<br />

Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum €3.50 for adults<br />

€2.00 for secondary students, univer<strong>si</strong>ty students,<br />

seniors and groups (over 15 people)<br />

Castle tours €5.00 for adults, €3.50 for secondary<br />

students, univer<strong>si</strong>ty students and seniors.<br />

slovenia.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


With so many things to chose from but limited suitcase<br />

space into which to cram stuff, deciding on what<br />

souvenirs to buy while in Ljubljana can be a daunting<br />

task. Although it’s far from definitive, we’ve made things<br />

ea<strong>si</strong>er by narrowing it down to a more manageable list<br />

of five popular items.<br />

Schnapps<br />

It may say more about us<br />

than anything else, but<br />

Slovenian schnapps is our<br />

gift of choice when vi<strong>si</strong>ting<br />

friends and family abroad.<br />

Slovenes swear by the stuff,<br />

not only as a digestif but<br />

also as a cure all for most<br />

common ailments and pickme-up<br />

on those cold dark<br />

winter mornings. The more<br />

popular varieties include<br />

b orovnica (blueberr y),<br />

medica (honey) and viljamovka (pear) - the latter often<br />

coming with an entire pear mysteriously in<strong>si</strong>de the bottle. If<br />

you’re thinking of taking some home, keep in mind the 100ml<br />

rule if you are flying at any point on your return journey, which<br />

means you can either opt for the tiny ornamental bottles or<br />

take your chances packing the larger ones in you checked<br />

baggage.<br />

Dragons<br />

Ljubljana’s famous dragon<br />

actually comes with quite<br />

a pedigree, making its first<br />

historical appearance in<br />

the legend of Jason and the<br />

Golden Fleece. Unfortunately<br />

for the dragon it would also<br />

be its last, as it was slain<br />

by the sticky-fingered Greek<br />

and his crew of Argonauts<br />

on their way to the Adriatic.<br />

However, much like Marilyn<br />

Monroe or 2Pac in the 20th<br />

century, an untimely death<br />

turned out to be a great career move for the mythical<br />

beast, as he was eventually adopted as the symbol of<br />

Ljubljana and his image can now be found on all manner<br />

of trinkets, t-shirts and other souvenirs.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

top 5 souvenirs<br />

Salt<br />

When discus<strong>si</strong>ng which souvenirs are most typical<br />

Slovenia, one oft-mentioned item in particular always<br />

seems to raise eyebrows: salt. More specifically, salt<br />

from the centuries old Sečovlje salt pans on the coast<br />

south of Portorož. While it’s technically the same stuff<br />

you find on every dinner table in the world, the location<br />

and traditional production methods give it a recognisably<br />

unique flavour. It’s actually quite well-known among<br />

gourmands worldwide, and as far away as Japan some<br />

high-end sushi restaurants use it exclu<strong>si</strong>vely. If you’re not<br />

making the trip to the coast, you can vi<strong>si</strong>t the Piranske<br />

Soline shop on Mestni Trg.<br />

Yugostalgia<br />

With each pas<strong>si</strong>ng year<br />

Slovenia’s identity as a<br />

former Yugoslav republic<br />

seems to become a little less<br />

pronounced, however, in the<br />

minds of many tourists the<br />

country’s 20th century heritage<br />

is still somewhere near the<br />

forefront - especially when it<br />

comes time to pick up some<br />

souvenirs. The best place to<br />

find old Yugoslav coins, banknotes, stamps and medals<br />

from the not so distant past is the flea market that’s<br />

held every Sunday along the Ljubljanica. Straying from<br />

politics into the realm of unrepentant kitsch, another of<br />

our favourites are old Yugo pop 45s - we’d be lying if we<br />

said we listen to the stuff, but some of the covers are<br />

great. And of course there’s always the ubiquitous Tito<br />

t-shirts that can usually be found at stalls in the train<br />

station underpass or near Triple Bridge.<br />

Lace<br />

Located some 50km west of Ljubljana, the town of Idrija is<br />

largely known for two things: mercury and lace. Although<br />

both undoubtedly make fine gifts for friends and family<br />

back home, the lace industry has apparently done a much<br />

better job promoting itself and is widely recognised as<br />

producing some of the highest quality lace in the world. A<br />

surpri<strong>si</strong>ng variety of lace goods - from <strong>si</strong>mple cloths and<br />

handkerchiefs to gloves, necklaces and even earrings -<br />

can be found at Galerija Idrijska Čipka on Mestni Trg.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

57


58 shopping<br />

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you<br />

can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s<br />

streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street<br />

stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number<br />

of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river,<br />

making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping<br />

cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the city<br />

centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill,<br />

Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the oppo<strong>si</strong>te<br />

bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets<br />

between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you like want a<br />

mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple<br />

of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor.<br />

Be<strong>si</strong>des an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a<br />

number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a<br />

water park and entertainment city.<br />

Art & Antiques<br />

Gudar D-4, Stari Trg 10, tel. (+386) 31 392 367, www.<br />

darjadaxi.<strong>si</strong>. This Old Town gallery is packed with unique gifts<br />

and souvenirs handcrafted by Slovene de<strong>si</strong>gners and artists<br />

from premium local materials. Ceramics, jewellery, watercolours,<br />

Illustrations, paintings, mosaics and leather goods are<br />

just some of the products you’ll find on display. The friendly<br />

staff is more than happy to give further details on all the items<br />

in stock, and the shop also hosts occa<strong>si</strong>onal events. Q Open<br />

Mon-Tues 12:00-19:00, Wed-Fri 10:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00<br />

and Sat 10:00-15:00.<br />

Books<br />

Mladinska Knjiga C-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1241<br />

36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.<strong>si</strong>, www.mladinska.com.<br />

The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has<br />

by far the largest selection of English language books in the<br />

country including a fairly impres<strong>si</strong>ve travel section. There’s<br />

usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d<br />

like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky.<br />

They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other<br />

street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Tax free shopping<br />

If you’re a re<strong>si</strong>dent of a non-EU<br />

member state, you’re eligible to<br />

take advantage of tax free shopping<br />

while vi<strong>si</strong>ting Slovenia. If you spend<br />

over €50 at any shop displaying the<br />

Global Refund ‘Tax Free’ logo, they<br />

can issue you with a special Refund<br />

Cheque when you pay. At shops that<br />

don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to<br />

ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get<br />

the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When you<br />

leave the EU just show the item you purchased and relevant<br />

paperwork to a customs official, who will give you the necessary<br />

stamps. You can then receive cash or credit at any<br />

of the many Global Refund Offices around the world - at<br />

Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at the news agents in<br />

the check-in area. However, before making any extravagant<br />

purchases assuming you’ll receive a 20% discount, make<br />

sure to double-check your departure info, especially if you<br />

have a layover in another EU country on your way home.<br />

Not all customs offices are open 24 hours, so depending<br />

on the time and length of your layover, it may be next to<br />

impos<strong>si</strong>ble to get the official stamps you need.<br />

Cosmetics<br />

L’Occitane D-4, Mestni Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1 426 03 72,<br />

www.loccitane.<strong>si</strong>. Named for an ancient province that once<br />

covered a wide swath of Mediterranean Europe, this wellknown<br />

international retailer of body, face and home products<br />

currently has ten stores in Slovenia, three of which are located<br />

in Ljubljana. The environmentally-conscious company aims to<br />

preserve the natural traditions of the Mediterranean region<br />

- especially those of Provence, France where it was founded<br />

some thirty years ago - and each product in its exten<strong>si</strong>ve<br />

range comes with a unique true story. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Department Stores<br />

Maxi Market C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14 76<br />

68 74, info@maxi.<strong>si</strong>, www.maxi.<strong>si</strong>. The quintessential<br />

Yugoslavian shopping centre experience, dating from 1971<br />

and brought slightly up to date but still retaining most of its<br />

original exterior charm. Maxi Market is perhaps the best<br />

one-stop-shop experience in the city centre. As well as a<br />

fairly good selection of clothes shops, it also has a number<br />

of other shopping surprises as well as a handful of interesting<br />

bars and cafés. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Midas C-2/3, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00,<br />

info@midas.<strong>si</strong>, www.midas.<strong>si</strong>. When Midas opened in<br />

October 2007 Ljubljana let out a <strong>si</strong>gh of relief. Finally the<br />

top international brands were available in Slovenia. Now you<br />

can find the latest collections from houses such as Giorgio<br />

Armani, Blumarine and Givenchy to the more fashion collections<br />

of Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ by Alexander McQueen<br />

and See by Chloe. In Midas you can fully immerse yourself in<br />

your favorite brand from underwear, clothes, shoes, bags, accessories,<br />

sunglasses and perfumes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Nama C-3, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@<br />

nama.<strong>si</strong>, www.nama.<strong>si</strong>. Just southwest of the Slon hotel,<br />

this well established department store provides several floors<br />

of clothing for men and women, plus household items and<br />

somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Fashion<br />

Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international<br />

brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenianmade<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gner clothing, so you shouldn’t have any trouble<br />

finding something surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly original.<br />

69 Slam D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 7, tel. (+386) 31 531<br />

900, www.69slam.<strong>si</strong>/. The Ljubljana outlet of this trendy<br />

international underwear and swimwear brand is somewhat<br />

hidden away on a quieter stretch of the river<strong>si</strong>de, which is a bit<br />

ironic given that the de<strong>si</strong>gns in<strong>si</strong>de are about as loud as you’re<br />

likely to find anywhere. If it’s any indicator of the store’s popularity<br />

amongst the locals, its Facebook page has almost 2,000<br />

fans. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Boss D-3, Miklošičeva 4, tel. (+386_ 51 658 552, Boss.<br />

ljubljana@sportina.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />

14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Emporium M-2, Letališka 3 (BTC), tel. (+386) 15 84<br />

48 00, info@emporium.<strong>si</strong>, www.emporium.<strong>si</strong>. This huge<br />

fashion house in the southwest corner of BTC has aisle after<br />

aisle of name-brand de<strong>si</strong>gner clothes for men, women and<br />

children at discount prices. With well over 100 different luxury<br />

brands to peruse they’ve been thoughtful enough to also include<br />

a café to rest weary legs and reload on caffeine. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />

Galerija Emporium D-3, Prešernov Trg 5a, tel.<br />

(+386) 1 30 84 210, info@galerijaemporium.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

galerijaemporium.com. After nearly a year of renovations,<br />

this luxury department store opened in the beautiful Art<br />

Nouveau Urbanc Building in September 2010. Located right<br />

on Prešeren Square, various top name men’s and women’s<br />

brands can be found across its five floors, and even if you’re<br />

not in need of any clothing or accessories, the building itself<br />

is worth a look. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />

H & M C-3, Čopova 2, tel. (+386) 12 41 04 20. Four floors<br />

of affordable Swedish-de<strong>si</strong>gned fashion on Ljubljana’s main pedestrian<br />

street. They also have another large store in City Park.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Hibrid C-2/3, Štefanova 3, tel. (+386) 41 698 777, info@<br />

hibrid.<strong>si</strong>, www.hibrid.<strong>si</strong>. The only place is Slovenia to find the<br />

newest fashion trends from some of the world’s hottest de<strong>si</strong>gners,<br />

Hibrid is a one of a kind boutique located on the ground floor<br />

of Ljubljana’s famous Nebotičnik Building. The owner Romain,<br />

is a French expat and certified fashion aficienado who personally<br />

selects the top names from Paris’ bi-annual Fashion Week,<br />

including Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Croatianborn<br />

Damir Doma. While the selection is technically men’s only,<br />

women are also frequent patrons, and as the name suggests<br />

there’s a full range of items from bu<strong>si</strong>ness suits to casual wear<br />

as well as shoes, sunglasses and other accessories. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Kipling C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51 10 10,<br />

bags.<strong>si</strong>. Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags,<br />

purses) for ladies who lunch. Be<strong>si</strong>des the headline leather<br />

there are also big print bags, which, as its summer in<br />

Slovenia, feature something of a nautical theme. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />

La Perla Studio D-2, Miklošičeva 7a, tel. (+386) 1<br />

434 00 60, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Italian fashion<br />

house La Perla recently premiered the elegant ‘New Venus’<br />

collection of high-end lingerie that took the feminine essence<br />

as its theme. In collaboration with world-renowned French<br />

de<strong>si</strong>gner Jean Paul Gaultier, La Perla has produced a collection<br />

of uniquely sophisticated lingerie dedicated to accentuating<br />

the female form in the most stylish way pos<strong>si</strong>ble. A range of<br />

styles and colours makes La Perla lingerie an ideal gift for<br />

that special (and pampered!) lady in your life. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Mandarina Duck C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12<br />

51 10 10, bags.<strong>si</strong>. Exqui<strong>si</strong>te handbags and leather goods<br />

for the glitterati. Look out for the trademark wooden ducks<br />

in the window: alas they are not for sale. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Marella C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 1 426 92 44,<br />

info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Marella has a fun, youthful<br />

feel that makes it a comparatively relaxed environment in<br />

which to outfit yourself with the latest high-end clothing. The<br />

brand was conceived in 1973 to offer fashionable, top quality<br />

clothing at affordable prices. This tradition has continued, and<br />

Marella’s beautifully de<strong>si</strong>gned fur, leather and <strong>si</strong>lk-infused<br />

collection is within the financial reach of the discerning,<br />

profes<strong>si</strong>onal ‘everywoman’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat<br />

09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

shopping<br />

February - March 2011<br />

59


60 shopping<br />

www.cukrcek.<strong>si</strong><br />

A rich selection of homemade chocolates,<br />

pralines and chocholate gifts.<br />

Cukrček Chocolate Shop, Pasaža Nebotičnika, Mestni trg 11<br />

Marina Rinaldi D-2, Dalmatinova 11b, tel. (+386) 14<br />

33 04 85, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. The theme of<br />

Marina Rinaldi’s ever-elegant collection this season is the<br />

unknown. Luxurious materials such as <strong>si</strong>lk-cashmere, in<br />

striking colours such as ivory white, are blended to produce<br />

a line of clothing that effortlessly blends light and shadow;<br />

mainstream and alternative; yin and yang. It is ideal for the<br />

tall or plus-<strong>si</strong>ze modern woman with a sophisticated yet<br />

casual sense of style who wishes to display her femininity in<br />

a fashionable but edgy and mysterious way. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Max Mara D-3, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 426 58 80,<br />

info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. When entering Max Mara,<br />

words like ‘elegant’, ‘sophisticated’ and ‘classy’ inevitably<br />

spring to mind. The shop po<strong>si</strong>tively glows with these qualities,<br />

offering a diverse range of nicely presented, luxurious ladies’<br />

attire. Staff are always nearby to as<strong>si</strong>st if needed but keep<br />

a polite distance, allowing you to browse without feeling any<br />

pressure. A highlight is the subtle yet striking Sportmax range,<br />

which presents high fashion at its highest while retaining an<br />

innovative individualism. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00<br />

- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Orsay C-3, Čopova 9, tel. (+386) 51 622 641, Orsay.<br />

copova@sportina.<strong>si</strong>, www.sportina.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Studio Ho<strong>si</strong>ery D-2, Miklošičeva 10, tel.(+386) 1 430<br />

25 77, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Studio Ho<strong>si</strong>ery’s<br />

range of shirts, stockings, socks and tights and other Max Mara<br />

bodywear mean that between it and neighbouring stores like<br />

Tru Trussardi and La Perla, you can outfit yourself in the most<br />

trendsetting attire from the ground up, as it were. A perfect<br />

place to begin, or conclude, your upmarket shopping spree.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.-<br />

Tally Weijl C-3, Čopova 38, tel. +386 51 658 576,<br />

TW.copova@sportina.<strong>si</strong>, ww.sportina.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Tru Trussardi D-3, Miklošičeva 7, tel. (+386) 59 074<br />

299, info@morris.<strong>si</strong>, www.morris.<strong>si</strong>. Like its nearby <strong>si</strong>ster<br />

stores, Max Mara and La Perla, Tru Trussardi offers a range of<br />

women’s clothing at the cutting-edge of fashion, empha<strong>si</strong><strong>si</strong>ng<br />

sophistication and sensuality but with a casual practicality<br />

that makes its accoutrements ideal for any occa<strong>si</strong>on. Tru<br />

Trussardi also caters to the style-conscious man, and its male<br />

collection is sophisticated and modern but with an alternative<br />

tinge that will have you looking as sharp and suave as they<br />

come yet with a subtle edge. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat<br />

09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Western Store E-3, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 40 236<br />

763. Located amongst the various boutiques, bars and<br />

eateries on Ljubljana’s trendy Trubarjeva pedestrian street is<br />

the city’s first and, to our knowledge, only shop speciali<strong>si</strong>ng<br />

in boots and fashion from the Old West. With more leather<br />

packed into the place than you’re likely to find at even the<br />

most respectable of dude ranches, this should be the first<br />

stop for cowboys, bikers or anyone looking to add something<br />

unique to their wardrobe. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

XYZ M-2, Šmartinska 152g (BTC, Citypark), tel.<br />

(+386) 1 548 3619, xyz-citypark@sportina.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

sportina-group.com. One of the region’s largest fashion<br />

retailers, the Sportina Group, opened its newest store in<br />

Citypark earlier this year. The XYZ concept stores aim to offer<br />

premium brands - over 40 in all, including such names as<br />

Armani, Burberry, Zenega, D&G, Galliano, Juicy Couture - in<br />

a sophisticated de<strong>si</strong>gn-oriented environment. Extra-large<br />

fitting rooms, lounge areas and specially selected mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

are standard features, and the stores frequently play host<br />

to special events. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Zooo C-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. (+386) 59 044 254,<br />

zooo@eurosport-trade.<strong>si</strong>, www.zooo.<strong>si</strong>. A 500 square<br />

metre de<strong>si</strong>gner multibrand store located right in the centre<br />

of town, Zooo features the latest urban fashions for men<br />

and women. Clothing, footwear and fashion accessories<br />

from brands such as Jacob Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Scotch<br />

& Soda, Tricker’s and Barba Napoli are all on display in the<br />

retro futuristic space.<br />

Gifts & Souvenirs<br />

Čokoladnica Cukrček D-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel.<br />

(+386) 15 19 92 86, info@benedict.<strong>si</strong>, www.cukrcek.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. A charming, family-run bu<strong>si</strong>ness with three shops in the<br />

city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and<br />

making children happily <strong>si</strong>ck for a decade and a half. Among<br />

the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special<br />

Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in<br />

chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.<br />

Kraševka D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 12 32<br />

14 45, info@krasevka.<strong>si</strong>, www.krasevka.<strong>si</strong>. ‘Food glorious<br />

food’ goes the song and you may well find yourself humming<br />

it as you scan the shelves of this tasty shop. A family-run<br />

bu<strong>si</strong>ness, Kraševka provides an outlet for local produce<br />

that until recently was only sold directly from the farmer to<br />

the pas<strong>si</strong>ng food-a-phile. It started off specializing in produce<br />

from the sea but has now expanded to include all manner<br />

of Slovenian delicacies from pumpkin-seed oil to Tiran wines<br />

to jams, cheeses, vinegars and dried meats. Catering to the<br />

inner gourmet lurking in most of us, Kraševka well lives up<br />

to its mis<strong>si</strong>on statement of selling ‘home-made foods that<br />

are produced with love’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


NEW<br />

La Chocolate D-4, Mestni Trg 18, tel. (+386) 1 256<br />

50 61/(+386) 41 237 447, info@lachocolate.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

lachocolate.<strong>si</strong>. Colourful packages of high quality pralines<br />

and truffles are the standouts at this relatively new sweets<br />

shop located on picturesque Mestni Trg. Ever-popular<br />

amongst Slovenes, you can’t really go wrong buying chocolate<br />

for that special someone - especially if it’s a she. Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />

clients can also take advantage of custom-de<strong>si</strong>gned gifts<br />

for employees or clients, and during the warmer months<br />

wine and chocolate tasting events make for a nice night out.<br />

Look for the orange squirrel logo. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Made in Slovenia C-3, Slovenska 23, tel. (+386)<br />

51 228 249, info@madeinslovenia.net, www.madeinslovenia.net/.<br />

These guys have been selling exclu<strong>si</strong>vely<br />

Slovenian produced goods on the web for over three years<br />

now, but have only recently decided to get into the bricks and<br />

mortar trade. Beyond the usual gifts and souvenirs they also<br />

carry original art work, hand-made jewellery, contemporary<br />

mu<strong>si</strong>c and of course hemp rolling papers. Their small shop<br />

in the arcade oppo<strong>si</strong>te Kongresni Trg was still undergoing<br />

some finishing touches when we vi<strong>si</strong>ted in late July, but we<br />

liked what we saw.<br />

Trgovina Ika D-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 232<br />

17 43, info@trgovina-ika.<strong>si</strong>, www.trgovina-ika.<strong>si</strong>. /RoIka<br />

puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion de<strong>si</strong>gners<br />

in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection<br />

of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion.<br />

You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products<br />

represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re<br />

looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the<br />

right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 14:00.<br />

Mu<strong>si</strong>c Shops<br />

Koromandija D-4, Galluosovo Nabrežje 29, tel. (+386)<br />

59 024 126, koromandija@t-2.net, koromandija.<strong>si</strong>. A<br />

small and somewhat eccentric mu<strong>si</strong>c store located in the Old<br />

Town along the Ljubljanica, Koromandija specialises in hard to<br />

find world, ethnic, folk and alternative tunes. Or, in their own<br />

words: “Mu<strong>si</strong>c that cannot be found on the Internet, mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

that invigorates; mu<strong>si</strong>c, which is a feast for the eyes, mu<strong>si</strong>c for<br />

all tastes and all occa<strong>si</strong>ons, mu<strong>si</strong>c outspoken, mu<strong>si</strong>c, mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

that surpri<strong>si</strong>ngly as of yet has not been heard - mu<strong>si</strong>c from<br />

all corners and places of the world!”<br />

Spin Vinyl Rock’n’Roll D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 13, tel.<br />

(+386) 1251 10 18, spinvinyl33@ma<strong>si</strong>com.net, www.<br />

spinvinyl.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s cult old town second-hand record<br />

shop not only stocks a magnificent collection of 12-inch<br />

oddities including copies of what’s generally con<strong>si</strong>dered to<br />

be the first punk album released behind the Iron Curtain (from<br />

the legendary Slovenian outfit, Pankrti) but is also one of the<br />

best places to stock up on information about what’s happening<br />

in and around the alternative mu<strong>si</strong>c scene in the city.<br />

QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00, Sun 10:30 -13:00.<br />

Vom Second Hand C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 12 52<br />

79 21, vom@vom.<strong>si</strong>, www.vom.<strong>si</strong>. A tiny shop found down<br />

an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection<br />

of mostly but not exclu<strong>si</strong>vely second-hand vinyl and CDs. Mu<strong>si</strong>c<br />

on offer includes clas<strong>si</strong>c rock and some gems from some<br />

of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Photography<br />

Foto Grad D-1/2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 14 39<br />

29 00, info@fotograd.com, www.fotograd.com. A small<br />

but decent selection of accessories plus developing and<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

shopping<br />

passport photographs on request. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Foto Maxi C-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1252<br />

74 50, fotomaxi@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.fotomaxi.com. If you<br />

can’t wait to get home to start going through your latest<br />

holiday photos, this photo shop in<strong>si</strong>de the Maxi shopping<br />

center, offers fast and efficient services for digital and<br />

manual snappers. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Foto Tivoli C-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 14 22 36 30,<br />

info@foto-tivoli.<strong>si</strong>, www.foto-tivoli.<strong>si</strong>. One of the better<br />

photography shops in the city centre, selling not only the usual<br />

supply of cameras and accessories but also a wide range of<br />

photographic paper and chemicals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Sex shops<br />

Red Shop D-5, Gornji Trg 24, tel. (+386) 14 25 32<br />

29/(+386) 41 62 46 08, redshopnada@gmail.com,<br />

www.redshop.<strong>si</strong>/. Concentrating mainly on sex toys of<br />

all sorts, this store offers a great variety of accessories<br />

that will help you enrich your sex life. You can vi<strong>si</strong>t the<br />

establishment in the old part of town or shop online.<br />

Just don’t expect much help from the clerk, in English or<br />

otherwise. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Venera Shop E-3, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 1432 41<br />

83, www.venera-shop.<strong>si</strong>. Ever wondered about going a<br />

little crazier in bed? Well, what are you waiting for? In this<br />

sex shop you’ll find all the little toys your heart might de<strong>si</strong>re.<br />

A large selection of videos, lubricants and all types of things<br />

that run on batteries. Check it out. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

61


62 shopping<br />

Shopping centres<br />

Shopping centres are not hard to find in Ljubljana, but<br />

most of the big department stores and supermarkets are<br />

just out of town and are best found by bus or taxi.<br />

BTC City M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 85<br />

22 22, info@btc.<strong>si</strong>, en.btc-city.com/. The biggest thing<br />

of its kind in the country, the po<strong>si</strong>tively humungous BTC<br />

features not only some 450 shops selling everything you<br />

could pos<strong>si</strong>bly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore,<br />

bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing,<br />

a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous<br />

water park, conference facilities and its very own bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />

district hou<strong>si</strong>ng some of the best known local and international<br />

companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500<br />

vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre<br />

of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

De<strong>si</strong>gn<br />

Dom De<strong>si</strong>gn C-2, Štefanova 6, tel. (+386) 1 244<br />

34 60, info@domde<strong>si</strong>gn.<strong>si</strong>, www.domde<strong>si</strong>gn.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Open for well over a decade, Dom De<strong>si</strong>gn was one of<br />

Ljubljana’s first proper home de<strong>si</strong>gn stores, and is still<br />

one of the best places in town to find unique items for<br />

every room in your house - from kitchen appliances,<br />

ottomans and beds to vases, clocks and door stops<br />

and pretty much everything in between. While the vast<br />

majority of products are imported from well-known firms<br />

in Italy and Denmark, the prices are far from exorbitant,<br />

and some of the most frequent clients are young families<br />

furnishing their own homes for the first time. Customised<br />

comprehen<strong>si</strong>ve home de<strong>si</strong>gn services are also offered,<br />

usually in cooperation with some of Slovenia’s leading<br />

young architects and interior de<strong>si</strong>gners. QOpen 09:30<br />

- 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Tanja Pak De<strong>si</strong>gn D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1<br />

431 5246, tanja@tanjapak.com, www.tanjapak.<br />

com. An accomplished de<strong>si</strong>gner and artist for well over<br />

a decade, Tanja Pak has had her work in glass displayed<br />

at both individual and group exhibitions around the world,<br />

and has been a professor at Ljubljana’s Academy of Fine<br />

Arts and De<strong>si</strong>gn <strong>si</strong>nce 2001. In 2005 she opened Gallery<br />

Gle<strong>si</strong>a, which was the first and still only gallery in Slovenia<br />

dedicated to promoting the expres<strong>si</strong>ve and aesthetic<br />

value of the medium of glass, and where the work of<br />

established artists in different fields is presented along<strong>si</strong>de<br />

her own permanent exhibitions. Among numerous<br />

other accolades, her work received honourable mention<br />

at the Red Dot awards in both 2008 and 2009. For truly<br />

unique gifts, this unassuming old town de<strong>si</strong>gn shop and<br />

gallery is worth finding. Q Open Mon-Tues 14:00-18:00,<br />

Wed-Thur 11:00-15:00, Fri 14:00-17:00 and first Sat of<br />

every month 09:30-13:30. Closed Sun.<br />

Photo courtesy of Dom De<strong>si</strong>gn<br />

Citypark M-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1587 30<br />

50, info@citypark.<strong>si</strong>, www.citypark.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s biggest<br />

shopping centre got a little bit bigger on 26 November, with<br />

the opening of a new wing - bringing its total store count up<br />

to 124. Be<strong>si</strong>des the mas<strong>si</strong>ve variety of stores (every major<br />

high street brand is here) there is a terrific choice of places<br />

to eat: most of the restaurants here are far better than your<br />

shopping mall average. There’s parking for all, and so big is<br />

this place that even on the bu<strong>si</strong>est of weekends it never feels<br />

opres<strong>si</strong>vely full. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Mercator Center Ljubljana I/J-1, Ljubljanske Brigade<br />

33, tel. (+386) 15 13 99 52, info@mercator.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

mercator.<strong>si</strong>. A huge, modern shopping centre with plenty<br />

of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops in here<br />

plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the north of<br />

the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Supernova M-6, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 14 28 88<br />

83, info@supernova.<strong>si</strong>, www.supernova.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s<br />

newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the<br />

city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car<br />

while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check<br />

out the all-you-can-eat sushi place, which is great value for<br />

your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Sports & Recreation<br />

Intersport C-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57,<br />

intersport@mercator.<strong>si</strong>, www.intersport.<strong>si</strong>. Everything<br />

you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Patrick Sport K-2, Celovška 34, tel. (+386) 14 39<br />

10 15. Whether you are skier, you love hiking or any of the<br />

sport activities that are popular in Slovenia, you should<br />

check out this specialised store. A small sporting goods<br />

store with a wide selection of equipment for various activities.<br />

They concentrate on brands of very high quality like the<br />

Kelme brand of football apparel and Hi-Tech gear for the<br />

outdoorsy types. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Watches<br />

Slo Watch D-3, Čopova 1, tel. (+386) 12 44 31 30/<br />

(+386) 31 32 08 11, zlatica<strong>si</strong>@slowatch.<strong>si</strong>, www.slowatch.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

With eight locations in Ljubljana, most of which are<br />

in the city’s main shopping areas, it’s hard to miss the crownadorned<br />

logo of the country’s most prolific watch retailer. At<br />

their upmarket flagship store located right on Prešernov Trg,<br />

prospective customers are given first-class treatment while<br />

shopping for brands whose advertisements regularly line<br />

the pages of glossy fashion magazines: Breitling, Tag Heuer,<br />

Longines. For those of us with more earth-bound budgets,<br />

their shops in BTC and Supernova (among others) offer more<br />

modestly-priced timepieces. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Wine Shops<br />

Vino Boutique C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 1 42 52<br />

680, www.vino-boutique.com. Despite being located on<br />

Ljubljana’s main thoroughfare, this small wine shop is somewhat<br />

hidden away in a vaulted brick cellar at the bottom of<br />

narrow staircase. While the selection isn’t mas<strong>si</strong>ve, most of<br />

what they carry you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in<br />

the city, including bottles from two of our favourite vineyards,<br />

Sveti Martin and Erzetič. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />

- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


64 sLoveniA wine guide<br />

Discover the countless vineyards amongst the<br />

Tuscanesque rolling hills of Slovenia’s Brda region<br />

Brda<br />

Occupying 72km² of rolling hills between the Soča River and<br />

Italian border, Brda is one of Slovenia’s foremost wine-growing<br />

areas and only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. Often described<br />

as a miniature ver<strong>si</strong>on of Tuscany, every hill seems to be<br />

topped with a large church (there are actually only 30 in all)<br />

surrounded by a charming little village, while the hill<strong>si</strong>des and<br />

valleys in between are blanketed with vineyards, orchards and<br />

winding country roads. A<strong>si</strong>de from a few larger estates and<br />

one cooperative, most of the vineyards are smaller family-run<br />

operations, and almost all offer some combination of wine<br />

tastings, tours, meals, accommodation and of course wine<br />

sales.<br />

The region is also known for its traditional Italian-influenced<br />

cui<strong>si</strong>ne, and a trip to Brda without enjoying a slow<br />

multi-course meal on a terrace overlooking the vineyards<br />

almost defeats the entire purpose. The tourist information<br />

office at Dobrovo Castle is well-stocked with multi-lingual<br />

maps, brochures and other literature, and a great place to<br />

start for first-time vi<strong>si</strong>tors.<br />

Erzetič Višnjevik 25A, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386)<br />

53 95 94 60, fax (+386) 41 64 31 14, erzetic.<br />

visnjevik@volja.net, www.vina-erzetic.com. Located in<br />

the unassuming village of Višnjevik, the Erzetič winery offers<br />

one of the more unique wine tasting experiences in the Brda<br />

region. Dating back to 1725, the family-run estate produces<br />

up to 80,000 bottles per year - several varieties of which have<br />

been decorated at internnational competitions, including the<br />

prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards. They’re also one<br />

of only two wineries in Slovenia to produce wine u<strong>si</strong>ng large<br />

ceramic vases called amphoras - which were specially-built in<br />

in Georgia and give the wine a very distinctive earthy flavour.<br />

Grad Dobrovo Grajska 10, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386)<br />

53 95 95 86, fax (+386) 51 81 64 70. If you’ve never been<br />

to Brda before, Dobrovo Castle is a logical first stop on your<br />

tour. The region’s well-stocked and extremely helpful tourist<br />

information centre is located in the courtyard, and in<strong>si</strong>de there’s<br />

a museum, art gallery and restaurant. The menu - in Slovene,<br />

Italian and German, but not English - fits on two pages, but the<br />

prices are reasonable, the servings ample and the views from<br />

the back terrace postcard worthy. After (or in lieu of) you meal,<br />

don’t forget to stop by the wine bar in the cellar.<br />

Klinec Homestead Medana 20, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel.<br />

(+386) 53 95 94 08, fax (+386) 31 33 94 63, nejkak@<br />

yahoo.com, klinec.<strong>si</strong>. More than just a winery or tourist farm,<br />

the Klinec homestead is a truly one of a kind place. The small<br />

family-run operation produces a range of exqui<strong>si</strong>te organic<br />

wines and serves an array of mouth-watering seasonal dishes<br />

following traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Brda<br />

region. They also play a central role in Medana’s thriving arts<br />

scene, hosting well-known painters and sculptors for a weeklong<br />

festival every October, as well as various jazz concerts,<br />

film viewings and poetry readings throughout the year.<br />

Vipava<br />

While the valley stretches only some two dozen kilometres,<br />

from the impo<strong>si</strong>ng Mt Nanos in the east to the city of Nova<br />

Gorica in the west, its unique location at the confluence<br />

of several different climate zones gives rise to no less<br />

than five distinct micro-regions: the Lower Vipava, Middle<br />

Vipava, Upper Vipava, Vipava Hills and Branica Valley.<br />

While the effects of this varied geography is clear even to<br />

first-time vi<strong>si</strong>tors, with plants like figs and palm trees growing<br />

at one end of the valley but not the other, the region’s<br />

most notable feature is the Bora (or Burja in Slovene) wind,<br />

which gusts down from Mt Nanos at speeds exceeding 200<br />

km/h. The wind is strongest during the wintertime, and is<br />

the reason why the buildings in villages are built so close<br />

together and roofs are piles with stones - it also often leads<br />

to the closure of the motorway. However, far from being an<br />

inconvenience, the valley’s 20,000 plus inhabitants seem to<br />

revel in their constant battle with the forces of nature, and<br />

have been rewarded with some of the finest wine making<br />

conditions in the world.<br />

Vinoteka Vipava Glavni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 5 368 70<br />

41/(+386) 51 215 226, tic.vipava@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.<br />

vipava.<strong>si</strong>. The combined tourist information centre and wine<br />

cellar on Vipava’s main square is probably the best place for<br />

first-time vi<strong>si</strong>tors to begin a day of wine tasting in the Vipava<br />

Valley. When you enter the building the information centre is<br />

through the doors to the left and is stocked with all manner of<br />

brochures, bu<strong>si</strong>ness cards and maps, as well as an assortment<br />

of local souvenirs. On the oppo<strong>si</strong>te <strong>si</strong>de of the hall is a small<br />

modern tasting room with around 130 wines from the region.<br />

The knowledgeable staff will gladly make recommendations<br />

and help you plan your itinerary through the valley - if you don’t<br />

have time to vi<strong>si</strong>t every winery on your list, all bottles can also<br />

be purchased for prices <strong>si</strong>milar to those the vineyards. In a<br />

room to the back you can watch a brief 15 minute film, which,<br />

unintentional comedy a<strong>si</strong>de, will give you a good overview of the<br />

valley’s history and long-standing viticulture tradition. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Sample Vipava’s famous Zelen at Vinoteka Vipava<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Sveti Martin Brje 121, Dobravlje, tel. (+386) 5 30 57 700/<br />

(+386) 31 200 111, p_stegovec@hotmail.com. Perched<br />

high above the valley in hilltop village of the same name, Sveti<br />

Martin isn’t the ea<strong>si</strong>est winery to find, but is definitely worth the<br />

extra effort. The microclimate of the surrounding slopes allow<br />

for production of especially high quality vintages, most notably<br />

from Vipava’s indigenous grapes: Zelen, Pinela and Klarnica - the<br />

latter being a limited production dessert wine, which is one of our<br />

personal favourites among all Slovene wines. The tasting room in<br />

the cellar can accommodate small to medium-<strong>si</strong>zed groups, and a<br />

degustation menu can be arranged with advanced booking.<br />

Sutor Wine Farm Podraga 30-31, Podnanos, tel. (+386)<br />

5 36 69 367, fax (+386) 5 36 86 166, primoz.lavrencic@png.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.sutor.<strong>si</strong>. Located in the exceptionally picturesque<br />

village of Podraga, who’s narrow lanes and high stone walls are<br />

not only photogenic but necessary to protect against the fierce<br />

winds the regularly rumble down from adjacent Mt Nanos, the<br />

Sutor estate has built a much-deserved reputation as one of<br />

Slovenia’s best wineries. Run by two brothers, Mitja and Primož<br />

Lavrenčič, the farm uses only organic methods and has been<br />

amply rewarded at numerous international wine competitions.<br />

Although the focus here is strictly on wine production rather<br />

than tourism, that hasn’t prevented them from opening one of<br />

the valley’s largest tasting rooms, which even includes both a<br />

fireplace and piano.<br />

Štajerska<br />

Known as Lower Styria in English and Untersteiermark in<br />

German, is one of Slovenia’s five historical regions, and<br />

the centre of viticulture in the eastern half of the country.<br />

The region produces mainly white wines with some of the<br />

most common varieties being Reisling, Traminec, Muškat<br />

and the autochthonous Šipon. It was also the first region<br />

in Slovenia to produce sparkling wine.<br />

Dveri Pax Polički Vrh 1, Jarenina, tel. (+386) 2 644<br />

00 82, fax (+386) 2 644 00 83, office@dveri-pax.com,<br />

www.dveri-pax.com. Since undergoing major renovations<br />

and expan<strong>si</strong>on in 2007, the Dveri Pax winery has been collecting<br />

London Decanter and other prestigious international<br />

awards like they were Pez dispensers. As with most of the<br />

vineyards in the Štajerska region, they produce a full range<br />

of white wines including Riesling, Traminec and, our personal<br />

favourite, the autochthonous Šipon variety, as well as several<br />

reds. Wine a<strong>si</strong>de, the property itself is worth a vi<strong>si</strong>t. Hidden<br />

away amongst the green hills 20km north of Maribor, a 200<br />

year-old farmhouse serves as the main production facility, while<br />

a former Benedictine monastery dating back to 1139 hosts<br />

group wine tastings, events and even a small museum. Plans<br />

are also afoot to convert the upper floor to guest rooms.<br />

Radgonske Gorice Jurkovičeva 5, Gornja Radgona, tel.<br />

(+386) 2 564 85 10/(+386) 2 561 10 39, info@radgonskegorice.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.radgonske-gorice.<strong>si</strong>. Slovenia’s first producer<br />

of sparkling wine has been turning out the bubbly stuff for over a<br />

century and a half now. Located only a just across the river Mura<br />

from the Austrian border in the far northeast of Slovenia, their<br />

vast and varied cellars are open for tastings, tours and even the<br />

odd wedding, while a <strong>si</strong>ghtseeing train makes its way though the<br />

thousand year old Radgona and Kapela districts.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

sLoveniA wine guide<br />

World’s Oldest Vine<br />

Maribor’s Old Vine & Old Vine House D-2,<br />

Vojašniška 8, tel. (+386) 2 251 51 00, stara-trta@<br />

maribor.<strong>si</strong>. Where the oldest vine in the world can be<br />

found winding its way up the front of the building, the house<br />

is now a museum dedicated to teaching vi<strong>si</strong>tors all there<br />

is to know about the wine culture of the Styrian region of<br />

Slovenia. At 400 years of age the vine has claimed its<br />

rightful place in the Guinnesss Book of Records and still<br />

bears the Zametovka or Blue Franconian grape, one of<br />

the oldest wine types in the country. The museum offers<br />

guided tours and also boasts an unparalleled collection<br />

of Styrian wines, which can be bought at a very generous<br />

discount. The house also plays host to a festival in its own<br />

name which is held every September, and is the starting<br />

point for three wine roads. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00.<br />

The tasting room at Radgonske Gorice<br />

Vinag Trg Svobode 3, tel. (+386) 2 22 08 119, www.<br />

vinag.<strong>si</strong>. One of the largest clas<strong>si</strong>cal wine cellars in Central<br />

Europe is located in, or rather under, the heart of Maribor.<br />

Comprised of over 2km of tunnels covering some 20,000m²<br />

and containing nearly 6 million litres of wine, the place might<br />

be too much for some wine-lovers to handle. Dating back to<br />

1836, the cellar began to grow in <strong>si</strong>ze and importance with<br />

the completion of the Vienna-Trieste railway five years later.<br />

Following World War Two the premises became part of a local<br />

cooperative, and were expanded and modernised in the years<br />

that followed, before being taken over by Vinag in 1960. Nowadays,<br />

a modern wine shop and tasting rooms <strong>si</strong>t on top of the<br />

vast underground network, with more than enough varieties<br />

to keep you busy for several hours. Group tastings and vi<strong>si</strong>ts<br />

to the wine cellar can be arranged with prior notice. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Vinska Klet Ptuj Vinarski Trg 1, Ptuj, tel. (+386) 2 78 79<br />

810, www.pullus.<strong>si</strong>. Beneath Slovenia’s oldest town you’ll find<br />

one the region’s most impres<strong>si</strong>ve wine cellars. Along the two<br />

kilometres of damp photogenic tunnels are ornately decorated<br />

wood barrels, modern production facilities, more than a few<br />

rooms that could ea<strong>si</strong>ly be sets in any number of horror films<br />

and one of the most impres<strong>si</strong>ve wine archives we’ve yet to<br />

see, stacked floor to vaulted ceiling with bottles dating back to<br />

almost 100 years and worth up to five figures at auction. Above<br />

all this are the newly renovated tasting rooms that would look<br />

like they’ve been lifted directly from some 19th century Austrian<br />

nobleman’s castle, were it not for the rows of projectors above<br />

the bar and walls covered with international wine awards.<br />

Located in a courtyard in the eastern part of the old town, it’s<br />

probably ea<strong>si</strong>est to stop by the Ptuj Tourist Information Centre<br />

on Slovenski Trg and ask for walking directions.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

65


66 LiFestyLe direCtory<br />

Beauty & Wellness<br />

Chao Thai Massage M-3, Jana Husa 3, tel. (+386)<br />

40 83 73 63, chaothai.<strong>si</strong>@gmail.com, www.chaothai.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Massage Corner H-1, Dunajska 111a/(+386) 040 97<br />

14 67. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386)<br />

1588 2600/(+386) 030 388 388, sense@sense-club.<br />

com, ww.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Clinics<br />

Health Centre Metelkova F-2, Metelkova 9, tel.<br />

(+386) 1472 37 00.<br />

Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina J-4, Rožna Dolina<br />

IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00.<br />

Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Medical Centre Ljubljana F/G-2,<br />

Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 50 50.<br />

Dentists<br />

Dental clinic F-3, Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 15 22 53 46.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik K-1, Dunajska 129, tel. (+386)<br />

1 565 14 25, pecnik.net16.net.<br />

Health Centre E-1/2, Kotnikova 36, tel. (+386) 1300<br />

96 74, www.zd-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Health Centre Metelkova E/F-2, Metelkova 9, www.<br />

zd-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 20:30 - 04:30.<br />

Dry cleaners<br />

Chemo Express C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251<br />

44 04. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Femiks E-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20,<br />

femiks@amis.net. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,<br />

Sun.<br />

Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08, mehurcek@mehurcek.<strong>si</strong>,<br />

www.mehurcek.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Hair Salons<br />

Mič Styling C-3, Kongresni Trg 4; Stari Trg 11a; Igriška<br />

10; Poljanska 13, tel. (+386) 12 41 40 40, www.micstyling.com.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Salon Mali C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1434 05 52,<br />

frizerski.salon.mali@gmail.com, www.salon-mali.com.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Take a stroll along Ljubljana’s new river<strong>si</strong>de footpath just<br />

below Breg, photo by Betina Ribeiro<br />

Women’s health<br />

Kalliste Slamnikarska 3b, Domžale, tel. (+386)<br />

1 72 44 300/(+386) 40 454 171, fax (+386) 1<br />

72 44 301, info@kalliste.<strong>si</strong>, www.kalliste.<strong>si</strong>. Ljubljana’s<br />

premier genecology, obstetrics, osteoporo<strong>si</strong>s<br />

and medical aesthetics centre is actually located in<br />

the suburb of Domžale a short drive northeast of the<br />

city on the A-1 motorway. Covering the full range (and<br />

then some) of women’s health and beauty treatments,<br />

Kalliste should be the first stop for women seeking<br />

profes<strong>si</strong>onal affordable care in the Ljubljana area.<br />

And husbands and boyfriends should take note that<br />

gift certificates are also available. Q Open Mon-<br />

Thur 08:00-20:00, Fri 08:00-15:00. Closed Sat-Sun<br />

and holidays.<br />

Stevo C-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. (+386) 1431 51 38,<br />

stevo@<strong>si</strong>ol.net, www.stevo-sp.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Studio Christian C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 41 98<br />

77 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Language courses<br />

Center for Slovene as a Second/Foreign Language<br />

C/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. (+386) 12 41 86<br />

77/(+386) 12 41 86 48, center-slo@ff.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.<br />

centerslo.net. Courses in the Slovenian Language are available<br />

throughout the year.<br />

Veris J-1, Stegne 7, tel. (+386) 1 5000 579/(+386) 40<br />

888 131, izobrazevanje@veris.<strong>si</strong>, www.veris.<strong>si</strong>.<br />

Libraries<br />

City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) C-2, Kersnikova<br />

2, tel. (+386) 1600 13 00, info@mklj.<strong>si</strong>, www.mklj.<br />

<strong>si</strong>. The regional library for central Slovenia is the most<br />

popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English<br />

literature. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National &<br />

Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.nuk.uni-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Home of<br />

Slovenia‘s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library<br />

is every researcher‘s dream. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Opticians<br />

Mestna Optika C-3/4, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386)<br />

1251 41 56, www.mestna-optika.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 08:30 -<br />

20:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72<br />

82, info@zajec-optika.<strong>si</strong>, www.zajec-optika.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Pharmacies<br />

Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) D-3,<br />

Prešernov Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1244 23 60, lekarna.<br />

ljubljana@lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>, www.lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 07:30<br />

- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Lekarna Ljubljana F-2, Prisojna 7, tel. (+386) 1230<br />

62 30, www.lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>. Q Open 24hrs.<br />

Lekarna Miklošič D-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. (+386)<br />

1230 62 52, www.lekarna-lj.<strong>si</strong>. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30,<br />

Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


u<strong>si</strong>ness direCtory<br />

Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Ljubljana’s Exhibition and Convention Centre, photo courtesy of GR<br />

Banks<br />

Abanka C/D-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15<br />

00.<br />

Bank Of Slovenia C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386)<br />

1471 90 00.<br />

Deželna Banka Slovenije D-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel.<br />

(+386) 1472 71 00.<br />

Hypo Group Alpe Adria K-1, Dunajska 117, tel. (+386)<br />

1 580 40 00.<br />

Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel.<br />

(+386) 1476 39 00.<br />

Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386)<br />

1234 98 18.<br />

Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58.<br />

Unicredit Banka Slovenija D-3, Wolfova 1, tel.<br />

(+386) 1587 64 72.<br />

Bu<strong>si</strong>ness centres<br />

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova<br />

63, tel. (+386) 1620 34 80.<br />

Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel.<br />

(+386) 1307 09 33.<br />

Tehnološki Park Ljubljana J-4, Teslova 30, tel.<br />

(+386) 1477 66 13.<br />

The Bu<strong>si</strong>ness Center (Virtual Office and Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />

Center) C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 4701<br />

690.<br />

Chambers of Commerce<br />

Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

(Gospodarska Zbornica Slovenije) L-2, Dimičeva<br />

13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00.<br />

Computers<br />

Comshop BTC M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.<br />

(+386) 51 34 59 11.<br />

Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604.<br />

Tech Trade C-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 1434<br />

01 08.<br />

Consultants<br />

IQbator J/K-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41 690<br />

666.<br />

MM-konto J-1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22.<br />

Par H-3, Tbili<strong>si</strong>jska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06.<br />

Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45 67.<br />

Tax-Fin-Lex K-2, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432 42<br />

43.<br />

Embas<strong>si</strong>es and Consulates<br />

Albania M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50.<br />

Australia (consulate) K/L-2, Železna 14, tel. (+386)<br />

1 234 8675.<br />

Austria B-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07 00.<br />

Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200 60 10.<br />

Bosnia & Herzegovina K-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. (+386)<br />

1234 32 50.<br />

Brazil C-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 24 00.<br />

Bulgaria K-4, Opekarska cesta 35, tel. (+386) 1 28<br />

32 899.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

67


68 monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf bu<strong>si</strong>ness 18.3.2009 0:47:20 direCtory<br />

Canada (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386)<br />

1252 44 44.<br />

China L-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55.<br />

Croatia L-4, Gruberjevo Nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

44 01.<br />

Cyprus D-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1232 15 42.<br />

Czech Republic B-5, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

24 50.<br />

Denmark C-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 143 80 800.<br />

Finland C-2/3, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1 300<br />

21 20.<br />

France C-5, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00.<br />

Germany B-3, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03 00.<br />

Greece K-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

14 00.<br />

Hungary Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386) 1512 18 82.<br />

India K-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. (+386) 1 513 31 17.<br />

Ireland E-3, Poljanski Na<strong>si</strong>p 6, tel. (+386) 1 300 89<br />

70.<br />

Italy B-4, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 21 94.<br />

Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82<br />

81.<br />

Latvia C/D-3, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 040 22 91<br />

71.<br />

Lithuania C-5, Emonska 8, tel. (+386) 1 2445 600.<br />

Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel.<br />

(+386) 1470 70 15.<br />

Macedonia K-1, Dunajska 104, tel. (+386) 1 568<br />

44 54.<br />

Malta (consulate) C-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386)<br />

041 444 014.<br />

Montenegro F-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439<br />

53 64.<br />

Netherlands C-2, Poljanski na<strong>si</strong>p 6, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

14 61.<br />

Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 21 40.<br />

Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12.<br />

Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479<br />

05 40.<br />

Romania H-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. (+386) 1505<br />

82 94.<br />

Rus<strong>si</strong>a A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20.<br />

Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10.<br />

Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25.<br />

South Africa (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 1200 63 00.<br />

Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420 23 30.<br />

Sweden C/D-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 130<br />

00 270.<br />

Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386)<br />

1200 86 40.<br />

Turkey D-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50.<br />

Ukraine A-5, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04.<br />

UK B-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1200 39 10.<br />

USA B-3, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00.<br />

Express Mail<br />

DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. (+386) 1588 78 00.<br />

FedEx M-3, Ob Železnici 14, tel. (+386) 15 47 33 86.<br />

Kurirček , tel. (+386) 80 1881.<br />

Tine Express J-1, Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. (+386)<br />

15 61 70 00.<br />

TNT Express M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15<br />

87 83 00.<br />

UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42<br />

81 12 00.<br />

Internet Cafés<br />

CyberHP Café Šmartinska 152/G (Citypark), tel.<br />

(+386) 15 42 15 30.<br />

Drog-Art E-1/2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 14 39<br />

72 70.<br />

Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,<br />

tel. (+386) 12 91 23 96.<br />

Xplorer E-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 19 91.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Name of Street<br />

Place on map<br />

Adamič-Lundrovo D-3<br />

Ajdovščina D-2/3<br />

Ambrožev trg F-4<br />

Aškerčeva cesta<br />

B-4/5, C-4<br />

Barjanska cesta B/C-5<br />

Barvarska E-3<br />

Beethovnova C-3<br />

Bičevje A-5<br />

Bleiweisova cesta<br />

A-3/4, B-2/3, C-2<br />

Bogišićeva B-5<br />

Bohoričeva ulica F/G-2<br />

Bolgarska G-1/2<br />

Borštnikov trg B-4<br />

Breg C/D-4<br />

Brejčeva F-4<br />

Cankarjeva B/C-3<br />

Cankarjevo D-3/4<br />

Celovška cesta<br />

B-1, C-1/2<br />

Cesta 27. Aprila A-3<br />

Cesta Slo. Kmečkih<br />

uporov E-4/5, F-5<br />

Cesta v Rožno dolino<br />

A-3/4<br />

Cigaletova D-1/2<br />

Cimpermanova D-5<br />

Ciril-Metodov trg D-3<br />

Čopova C/D-3<br />

Črtomirova F-1<br />

Čufarjeva D/E-2<br />

Dalmatinova ulica C/D-2<br />

Dolničarjeva D-3<br />

Dunajska cesta D-1<br />

Dvorakova C-1/2,D-2<br />

Dvorni trg C-4<br />

Eipprova C-5<br />

Emonska cesta C-4/5<br />

Erjavčeva B-3/4, C-4<br />

Finžgarjeva ulica B-5<br />

Friškovec F-2<br />

Gallusovo D-4<br />

Gerberjevo C-3<br />

Gestrinova E-3<br />

Gledališka C-3<br />

Gornji trg D-4<br />

Gosposka C-4<br />

Gosposvetska cesta C-2<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Grablovičeva ulica G-1<br />

Gradaška ulica C-5<br />

Gradišče C-4<br />

Grajska planota D-4<br />

Grajski drevored E-4/5<br />

Gregorčičeva B/C-4<br />

Groharjeva cesta B-4/5<br />

Grudnovo D-5<br />

Hacquetova ulica E/F-1<br />

Hajdrihova ulica A-5<br />

Hradeckega cesta F/G-5<br />

Hrenova D-5<br />

Hribarjevo D-3<br />

Hrvatski trg F-3<br />

Hudovernikova F-4/5<br />

Igriška B/C-4<br />

Ilirska ulica E/F-3<br />

J. Turnograjske C-3/4<br />

Jakopičev<br />

drevored B-1/2<br />

Jakopičevo<br />

sprehajališče A/B-2<br />

Jamova cesta A/B-5<br />

Janežičeva E-5<br />

Japljeva G-2<br />

Jenkova ulica G-1/2<br />

Jurčičev trg C-4<br />

Kapusova G-4<br />

Karlovška cesta D/E-5<br />

Karunova C-5<br />

Kastelčeva E-3<br />

Kersnikova C-2<br />

Kladezna C-5<br />

Kleparska D-4<br />

Ključavničar. D-4<br />

Knafljev prehod C-3<br />

Kolezijska C-5<br />

Kolinska ulica G-1<br />

Kolodvorska D-1/2<br />

Komenskega ulica<br />

D-2, E-2/3<br />

Kongresni trg C-3/4<br />

Kopitarjeva E-3<br />

Korytkova G-2<br />

Kotnikova ulica F-1/2/3<br />

Krakovska C-5<br />

Krakovski na<strong>si</strong>p C/D-5<br />

Kratka C-4<br />

Krekov trg D/E-3<br />

Kristanova E-3<br />

Križevniška C-4<br />

Real estate<br />

Abc Nepremičnine C-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386)<br />

1300 00 00.<br />

Agencia M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1521 15 65.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />

Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel.<br />

(+386) 80 81 81.<br />

Luster H-2, Tržaška 124, tel. (+386) 1200 49 54, fax<br />

(+386) 1200 59 55.<br />

Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. (+386)<br />

1300 73 70.<br />

Krojaška D-4<br />

Kurilniška C-1<br />

Langusova ulica A-5<br />

Lepi pot A-4/5, B-5<br />

Levstikov trg D-4/5<br />

Levstikova A/B-4<br />

Likozarjeva C/D-1<br />

Lipičeva F/G-3<br />

Livarska D-1<br />

Lončarska steza E-4<br />

Mačja steza D-4<br />

Maistrova ulica F-2<br />

Mala D-3<br />

Mali trg D-3<br />

Masarykova cesta E/F-1<br />

Mencingerjeva B-5<br />

Merosodna D-5<br />

Mesarska G-4<br />

Mestni trg D-4<br />

Metelkova ulica E-2, F-1/2<br />

Miklošičeva cesta D-2/3<br />

Mirje B/C-5<br />

Močnikova G-1/2<br />

Murnikova B-5<br />

Muzejska B-3<br />

Na grad D-4<br />

Na stolbi E-4<br />

Nazorjeva C/D-3<br />

Nebotičnikov C-3<br />

Njegoševa cesta F-2/3<br />

Novakova F-1<br />

Novi trg C-4<br />

Obrežna D-3<br />

Oražnova ulica A-4<br />

Osojna pot D/E-4<br />

Osojna steza D-4<br />

Ovinki D-4<br />

Parmova ulica C-1<br />

Peternel. C-4<br />

Petkovškovo<br />

nabrežje D/E/F-3<br />

Pivovarniška B/C-1<br />

Plečnikov trg C-3<br />

Pod gradom D-4/5, E-4/5<br />

Pod trančo D-4<br />

Pod turnom A-2/3, B-2<br />

Pogačarjev trg D-3<br />

Poljanska<br />

cesta E-3, F3/4, G-4<br />

Poljanski na<strong>si</strong>p E/F/G-3<br />

Potočnikova G-3/4<br />

street register<br />

Povšetova ulica G-3<br />

Pražakova D-1<br />

Prečna D-3<br />

Prešernov trg D-3<br />

Prešernova cesta B-2/3<br />

Prežihova C-2/3<br />

Pri brvi C-5<br />

Prijateljeva D/E-5<br />

Prisojna F-2<br />

Prule D-5<br />

Puharjeva C-2<br />

Razgledna steza D-4<br />

Reber D-4<br />

Rečna C-5<br />

Resljeva cesta E-2/3<br />

Ribji trg D-3<br />

Riharjeva ulica B-5<br />

Rimska B/C-4<br />

Robbova E-1<br />

Roška cesta E-5, F-4/5<br />

Rozmanova ulica F-2/3<br />

Rožna D-5<br />

Ruska ulica B-1<br />

Rutarjeva A-3<br />

Salendrova C-4<br />

Slomškova ulica D/E-2<br />

Slovenska<br />

cesta C-2/3/4, D-1/2<br />

Snežniška B-4<br />

Sodarska steza D-4<br />

Soteska C-4<br />

Stari trg D-4<br />

Stiška D-4<br />

Streliška ulica E-4, F-4/5<br />

Stritarjeva D-3<br />

Strmi pot E/F-5<br />

Strossmayerjeva E-3/4<br />

Strupijevo nabrežje<br />

F-5, G-4/5<br />

Šketova G-1/2<br />

Škrabčeva ulica A-3<br />

Šlajmerjeva G-2/3<br />

Šmartinska cesta<br />

F-1/2, G-1<br />

Štefanova C-2/3<br />

Štrekljeva ulica A-3/4<br />

Študentovska D-3<br />

Šubičeva ulica B/C-3<br />

Tabor E/F-2<br />

Tavčarjeva ulica D-2<br />

Tesarska D-5<br />

Teslova ulica A/B-5<br />

Tivolska cesta C/D-1<br />

Tobačna A-3/4<br />

Tomšičeva B/C-3<br />

Trdinova D/E-2<br />

Trg francoske<br />

revolucije C-4<br />

Trg mladinskih<br />

delovnih brigad B-4<br />

Trg osvobodilne<br />

fronte D-1<br />

Trg republike B/C-3<br />

Trnovski pristan D-5<br />

Trubarjeva cesta<br />

D/E/F-3<br />

Tržaška cesta A-4/5<br />

Ulica Janeza Pavla II.<br />

E-3/4<br />

Ulica stare pravde E-4<br />

Ulica talcev E/F-4<br />

Valvasorjeva B-3<br />

Vegova C-4<br />

Veselova B-3<br />

Vidovdanska E-3<br />

Vilharjeva cesta D/E/F-1<br />

Vodna D-4<br />

Vodnikov trg D/E-3<br />

Vogelna C-5<br />

Volaričeva A-5<br />

Vošnjakova C-1/2<br />

Vožarski pot D-5<br />

Vrazov trg F-3<br />

Vrhovčeva F-2<br />

Vrtača A/B-4<br />

Vrtna C-5<br />

Wolfova C/D-3<br />

Za čreslom D-3<br />

Za gradom E-5<br />

Za ograjami D-3/4<br />

Zaloška cesta F/G-3<br />

Zarnikova ulica E/F-4<br />

Zdravstvena F-4<br />

Zemljemerska E/F-4<br />

Zoisova cesta C-4/5<br />

Zvezdarska D-5<br />

Zvonarska D-5<br />

Žabjak D-5<br />

Železna E-1<br />

Židovska C-4<br />

Živinozdravska G-3/4<br />

Župančičeva C-2/3<br />

Relocations<br />

Relocations Ltd H-1, Slovenska 34 (The Bu<strong>si</strong>ness Centre),<br />

tel. (+386) 40 51 78 20, fax (+386) 14 70 16 99.<br />

Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel.<br />

(+386) 1565 69 50.<br />

Vatovec D-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40.<br />

Translators<br />

Alkemist J-2, Obirska 4, tel. (+386) 1514 16 78.<br />

Berlitz C-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1433 13 25.<br />

February - March 2011<br />

69


Abanka 67<br />

Adria Airways 8<br />

Agencia 69<br />

Air France 8<br />

Ajdovo Zrno 36<br />

Albania 67<br />

Al Capone 33<br />

Alibi 26<br />

Alkemist 69<br />

Allegro 21<br />

Antiq 21<br />

Antiq Palace & Spa 20<br />

Antonín Dvorak: Rusalka 14<br />

Argentino 31<br />

As 31<br />

Atrium 31<br />

Australia (consulate) 67<br />

Austria 67<br />

Austrian Airlines 8<br />

Austria Trend 22<br />

Azur 26, 33<br />

Bangkok Street 29<br />

Bank Of Slovenia 67<br />

Belgium 67<br />

Berlitz 69<br />

Best Western Premier Slon 22<br />

Bon Appétit 31<br />

Bosnia & Herzegovina 67<br />

Botanical Gardens 56<br />

Brazil 67<br />

Brussels Airlines 8<br />

Budget 7<br />

Bulgaria 67<br />

Bus Station 7<br />

Čad 30<br />

Café Open 48<br />

Canada (consulate) 68<br />

Cantina Mexicana 34<br />

Celica 26<br />

Center 24<br />

Center for Slovene as a<br />

Second/Foreign Language 66<br />

Central Pharmacy 66<br />

Čevljarski Most 49<br />

Čez Cesto 37<br />

Cha 37<br />

Chamber of Commerce and<br />

Industry of Slovenia 67<br />

Chao Thai Massage 66<br />

Chemo Express 66<br />

Chile (consulate) 68<br />

China Fast Food 29<br />

City Library 66<br />

Comshop BTC 67<br />

Contemporary History<br />

Museum 54<br />

Croatia 68<br />

CyberHP Café 68<br />

Cyprus 68<br />

Czech Airlines 8<br />

Czech Republic 68<br />

Denmark 68<br />

Dental clinic 66<br />

Deželna Banka Slovenije 67<br />

Don Felipe 36<br />

Drago F Tinta 37<br />

Drog-Art 68<br />

Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik 66<br />

Dulcis Caffe 37<br />

Dveri Pax 65<br />

Easyjet 8<br />

Elit Taxi 8<br />

Emonec 26<br />

Emonska Klet 31<br />

Equrna 16<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ESITI 18<br />

Europcar 7<br />

Eventim 18<br />

FedEx 68<br />

Femiks 66<br />

Festivalna Dvorana 15<br />

Finland 68<br />

France 68<br />

Gala Hala 15<br />

Galerija Kre<strong>si</strong>ja 16<br />

Ganes Pratt 16<br />

Germany 68<br />

Gibanica / Moving Cake: 5th<br />

Festival of Slovenian Dance 12<br />

Gostilna Krpan 30<br />

Gostilna na Gradu 36<br />

Gostilnica Rimska XXI 36<br />

Grajska Kavarna 37<br />

Grand Hotel Union Executive 20<br />

Greece 68<br />

Gymna<strong>si</strong>vm Sauna 48<br />

Hala Tivoli 16<br />

Harambaša 30<br />

Health Centre 66<br />

Health Centre Metelkova 66<br />

Hostel Print 26<br />

Hungary 68<br />

Hypo Group Alpe Adria 67<br />

India 68<br />

International Centre of<br />

Graphic Arts 54<br />

IQbator 67<br />

Ireland 68<br />

Italy 68<br />

Japan 68<br />

JB 31<br />

Jelen 36<br />

Juicebox 31<br />

Jurman 32<br />

K4 Roza 48<br />

Kalliste 66<br />

Kavarna Tromostovje 37<br />

Kavarna Union 18<br />

Kino Dvor 15<br />

Kinoklub Vič 15<br />

Kino Šiška 16<br />

Kinoteka 15<br />

Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna<br />

dolina 66<br />

Kolosej 15<br />

Konkurenca 35<br />

Križanke 16<br />

Krvavec 19<br />

Kurirček 68<br />

Latvia 68<br />

Lekarna Ljubljana 66<br />

Lekarna Miklošič 66<br />

Le Petit Café 37<br />

Lesar Hotel Angel 21<br />

Lev 21<br />

Lithuania 68<br />

Ljubljana Airport 7<br />

Ljubljana Castle 56<br />

Ljubljana Nepremičnine 69<br />

Ljubljana Tourist Information<br />

Centre 49<br />

Ljubljana Zoo 56<br />

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni<br />

Inkubator 67<br />

Lolita 37<br />

Lufthansa 8<br />

Lunch Café Marley & Me 32<br />

Luster 69<br />

Luxemburg (consulate) 68<br />

Macedonia 68<br />

Maček 38<br />

Malta (consulate) 68<br />

Maribor Pohorje 19<br />

Massage Corner 66<br />

Medana 34<br />

Mehurček 66<br />

Mesarski Most 49<br />

Mestna Galerija 16<br />

Mestna Hiša 52<br />

Mestna Optika 66<br />

Metelkova Mesto 16<br />

Metro Taxi 8<br />

M Hotel 24<br />

Mič Styling 66<br />

MM-konto 67<br />

Mons 21<br />

Montenegro 68<br />

Namasté 31<br />

Narodna In Univerzitetna<br />

Knjižnica 66<br />

National Drama Theatre 18<br />

National Gallery 54<br />

National Museum 54<br />

National Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Library 52<br />

Natural History Museum 56<br />

Nebotičnik 32, 38, 52<br />

Netherlands 68<br />

Norway 68<br />

Nova Ljubljanska Banka 67<br />

Olimpija 30<br />

Oliva 34<br />

Opcija 35<br />

Optika Zajec 66<br />

Orthodox Church 52<br />

Oton Zupancic Library 68<br />

Panč Stand-Up Comedy<br />

Festival 14<br />

Par 67<br />

Parma 34<br />

Penzion na Klancu 28<br />

Penzion Tavčar 26<br />

Philharmonic 16<br />

Photon 16<br />

Planica 2011 16<br />

Plato 32<br />

Pokal Vitranc Ski World Cup<br />

2011 15<br />

Poland 68<br />

Portugal 68<br />

Poslovni angeli Slovenije 67<br />

Pri Semaforju 38<br />

Pri Škofu 36<br />

Pro-Eco 67<br />

Puppet Theatre 18<br />

Q Cultural Centre 48<br />

Raiffeisen Bank 67<br />

Relocations Ltd 69<br />

Rio-Momo 30<br />

Robba Fountain 54<br />

Romania 68<br />

Royal Nepremičnine 69<br />

Rus<strong>si</strong>a 68<br />

Salon 32<br />

Salon Mali 66<br />

San Martino 33<br />

Sarajevo '84 30<br />

SAS Scandinavian Airlines 8<br />

Selitveni servis Repič 69<br />

SEM Kavarna 38<br />

Sense Welness Club 66<br />

Serbia 68<br />

SiQRD 48<br />

Skb 67<br />

Škuc Gallery 16<br />

Slon 33<br />

index<br />

Slovakia 68<br />

Slovenia for Gay Travelers 48<br />

Slovenian National Opera &<br />

Ballet Theatre 18<br />

Slovenian Tourist Information<br />

Center 49<br />

Slovenska Mladinska Gledališče<br />

18<br />

Smrekarjev Hram 33<br />

Sofra 30<br />

Sosed 67<br />

South Africa (consulate) 68<br />

Spain 68<br />

Stari Tišler 26<br />

STA Travel Cafe 38<br />

Stevo 66<br />

Stil 24<br />

Studio Christian 66<br />

Sushimama 30<br />

Sveti Martin 65<br />

Sweden 68<br />

Switzerland 68<br />

Tax-Fin-Lex 67<br />

Tech Trade 67<br />

Tehnološki Park Ljubljana 67<br />

Thai Sabai 48<br />

The Bu<strong>si</strong>ness Center (Virtual<br />

Office and Bu<strong>si</strong>ness<br />

Center) 67<br />

Themes of Antiquity in<br />

the work of Francesco<br />

Kavčič/Caucig 14<br />

The Old Vine & The Old Vine<br />

House 65<br />

This Is All Film! Experimental<br />

Film in Former Yugoslavia,<br />

1951-1991 14<br />

Tine Express 68<br />

Tivoli Park 50<br />

TNT Express 68<br />

Toulouse-Latrec: A Master<br />

of Poster Art 14<br />

Tour AS 28<br />

Tourist Information Centre 18<br />

Train Station 7<br />

Trattoria Katrca 33<br />

Tromostovje 49<br />

Trta 34<br />

Turag4all 52<br />

Turkey 68<br />

Turkish Airlines 8<br />

UK 68<br />

Ukraine 68<br />

Unicredit Banka Slovenija 67<br />

Univer<strong>si</strong>ty Medical Centre<br />

Ljubljana 66<br />

UPS Intereuropa 68<br />

USA 68<br />

Vatovec 69<br />

Vegedrom 36<br />

Velika Planina 19<br />

Veris 66<br />

Vila Veselova 26<br />

Vinag 65<br />

Vinoteka Vipava 64<br />

Vinska Klet Ptuj 65<br />

Xplorer 68<br />

Zajčja Dobrava 34<br />

Žale Cemetery 52<br />

Zlatorog 28<br />

Zvezda 38<br />

Zmajski Most 50<br />

February - March 2011<br />

75

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