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[TRAVEL] Great Choral Synagogue The Nevsky Prospekt Bridge crosses the Moika Canal. 62 MARCH 2013 | ARIZONA JEWISH LIFE Coming from a generation whose rst impressions of Russia were molded by early James Bond lms, I hope I might be excused for having a soundtrack of Bondian music running through my head the day I risked all by breaking away from my ocial tour group to enjoy a few glorious hours freely wandering the streets of St. Petersburg alone. I knew the rules, but getting an “independent” visa is so expensive ($230) and convoluted that I’d opted for the “all-inclusive” shore excursions departing twice daily during the three days my Baltic-cruising ship, the Crystal Symphony, was docked in St. Petersburg. Assured of having a oating hotel and ample sightseeing opportunities, I nevertheless longed to explore a bit on my own. destination Story and photos by Joseph Lieberman RUSSIA Jewish St. Petersburg
Perhaps the inspiration to “go rogue” came to me when we visited a young couple struggling to regain their Jewish roots during Crystal Cruise’s “Jewish St. Petersburg” tour. Against the odds, and certainly to the surprise of their parents, Dima and Rivkah Krasilshikov had joined a growing movement to resurrect the small surviving Jewish community there. “During the Soviet era of our parents and grandparents,” Dima explained, “being any religion was frowned upon, but being Jewish carried more historical baggage.” Rivkah, his wife of just one year, added, “In my family, we lost all sense of Judaism. I wouldn’t want our kids, should we have any, to grow up that way. More and more young people feel as we do, as we create a support network.” When Rivkah started serving light drinks and snacks, some in our group quietly slipped a “donation” into Dima’s pocket, knowing that his job xing computers and their modest apartment were not evidence of untold riches. One might think there wouldn’t be many people on a luxury cruise opting to spend half a day focused on such a small niche of Russian culture, but there were 40 At left, Joseph Lieberman in the sanctuary of the Great Choral Synagogue. Below, Cantor Gregory Yakerson performs for a tour group at Great Choral Synagogue. American dermatologists with their wives aboard our ship, and almost all were Jewish. Others joined in, so we ended up lling two busloads. Another stop was the Great Choral Synagogue, a majestic building constructed in Moorish style between 1880 and 1893. It’s the second-largest synagogue in Europe, and one of the most ornate, with a cupola reaching a height of 154 feet and a prayer hall holding 1,200 worshipers. Next door is a small Chabad shul and, beside that, a shop that sells kosher food and gifts such as Jewish versions of those famous Russian “matryoshka dolls.” ARIZONA JEWISH LIFE | MARCH 2013 63
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THE JEWISH LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR A
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Unlike most investors, none of Stra
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Table of Contents MARCH 2013/Adar-N
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Editor’s Letter How can we decide
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ISRAEL BONDS THIS PASSOVER From Exo
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Page 20 and 21: [PASSOVER] CHEF’ S By Lisa Glickm
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Page 24 and 25: [COVER STORY] horsing around By Deb
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Page 30 and 31: Shoshanna black-and-white shift dre
Page 32 and 33: [CAMPS] Letters from Camp An attemp
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Page 40 and 41: [FOOD] By A. Noshman Remember when
Page 42 and 43: [FOOD] Demystifying the Grape By Ma
Page 44 and 45: [ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT] The Storyt
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Page 48 and 49: [FITNESS] By Debra Rich Gettleman E
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Page 58 and 59: [SINGLES] ROCKING the single life:
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