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Content 

Making Waves 

The Panama 

Ghost 

Freedom of Motion 

King of Snakes 

Lord of the Land 

The Growth in Tattoo culture 

The Ultimate Hot Rod 

It’s a Man’s World... Not! 

Paper 

The Fine-Dining Isle 

The Epitome of Classic Luxury 

Global Shopping: Brazilian Gems 

The Enigmatic White Spirit 

Cover photography by Aldra. 

asia design consultants 

Published and designed by Asia Design 

Consultants Ltd. for Twinpalms Phuket. 

For advertising email: kirjon@gmail.com 

© Asia Design Consultants PLT., 

Lucire – Jack Yan & Assoc. and other 

contributors. 

All rights reserved. All other trade marks are 

the property of their respective owners. 

Printed in Thailand. 

Jack Yan talks to Gal Gadot, who is making an 

ever-growing splash in Hollywood 

Surviving the tests of time 

Fashion 

A brief look at the quickest and the most energy-efficient 

cars on the planet 

A mighty predator and a marvel of nature 

Animistic beliefs as part of Thailand’s cultural heritage 

The symbolism and impact of tattoos in different places 

and cultures 

ECOSSE’s exquisite two-wheeled creations 

From holding the rope to surpassing the feats 

accomplished by men 

Fashion 

Phuket’s culinary coming of age 

Recapture the romance and atmosphere of a bygone era 

A serious haven for power shopping 

Actress Bai Ling often takes darker, enigmatic roles – 

given her fascinating background, they suit the Chineseborn 

actress well 

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people 

“She was 18 when she 

joined the Tzahal, the 

Israeli Army, and she 

remembers it as ‘a very 

nice experience. You’ve 

got to be in the system. 

It makes you more 

mature.’” 

Story Jack Yan Photography Andrew Matusik Hair Jonathan Hanousek/Exclusive Artists Make-up 

Elaine Offers/Exclusive Artists Digital Post DigitalRetouch.net Photography Assistance Kirk Palmer 

Style Cliff Hoppus Arrangement Craig Schneider/Pinnacle PR 

Making Waves 

Jack Yan talks to Gal Gadot, who is making an ever-growing splash 

in Hollywood 

It’s a coincidence, I can assure readers, that we have 

wound up with a few national beauty pageant winners 

profiled in Lucire. While yours truly gets to judge a 

few pageants, the fact that Gal Gadot, a former Miss 

Israel, had our cover is down to a lot more than her 

2004 win. And it is down to a lot more than her recent 

role in Fast and Furious, the latest in the line of movies 

about street racing and rice burners, and one which 

reunites the original stars Vin Diesel and Paul Walker. 

Gadot, to us, is an international face that represents 

the global idea of the modern woman. It also helps that 

she’s very welcoming, and has a growing reputation as 

an actress. 

First, I asked her about the pronunciation of her name. 

For most of this century I have heard the name of 

another model-turned-actress butchered by the media, 

that of recently naturalized American citizen Charlize 

Theron (the h is silent). For eight years at school, unless 

he lied to us, Karl Urban’s surname was pronounced 

urban, as in the everyday English word. And Gal Gadot 

is not French, which means the t is not dropped. 

After mastering the Hebrew pronunciation (the stress is 

on the first syllable of her surname) and being told that 

it translates to ‘wave in the sea’, I managed to impress 

Gadot. I was already impressed with her easy-going 

manner. Gadot found few problems with interviews, she 

explains. ‘[At Miss Israel], we had eight to ten minutes 

with each judge. You get used to it after one or two. 

‘I had an amazing experience in Quito [where Miss 

Universe 2004 was held the year Gadot represented 

Israel]. Each [contestant] had her own culture, her own 

language. One of my best friends was Miss Sweden, 

Katrina.’ 

Gadot remarked that she was closest not just to her 

Swedish rival, but became ‘very good friends’ with the 

contestants from Norway and Denmark as well. We 

theorized that it could be the cosmopolitan nature of 

these countries, including her own. 

‘Basically, Israeli people travel a lot. Everywhere I 

go, someone knows an Israeli guy or girl. We are 

everywhere. 

‘I am a citizen of the world. I’m considering moving 

here [to Los Angeles]. You can get hamburgers, French 

food, they have everything – but you can’t get a good 

hummus.’ 

Gadot says that despite her thoughts of moving to 

the US (at this point we compared air travel distances 

between Tel Aviv and LAX, and Auckland and LAX), ‘I 

will always, first of all, be Israeli.’ 

After Quito, Gadot secured numerous modelling jobs, 

which fuelled her travelling more. ‘I went all over 

Europe. I loved in Milan for six months, and in Paris, 

living the model life.’ But that was cut short with her 

national service, which Gadot regards as ‘normal’. She 

was 18 when she joined the Tzahal, the Israeli Army, 

and she remembers it as ‘a very nice experience. 

You’ve got to be in the system. It makes you more 

mature.’ 

However, Gadot says she never expected to be an 

actress. And she says she never wanted to be a model, 

either, until she had won Miss Israel. The doors seemed 

to open as she arrived at each stage in her life. After 

she completed her national service, she says, ‘I wanted 

to do something with more substance [than modelling]. 

One thing led to another, and led me here. 

‘Fast and Furious was my first feature. It was an 

amazing experience. The whole cast and crew were 

welcoming and nice – it was nice to work with everyone 

there. … It was more than I ever expected. ‘In Israel, 

everything is much smaller. We have a seven million 

population. Here, it’s huge. The budgets are so different 

in Israel.’ 

There was one disappointment with Fast and Furious: 

the white Porsche (which she describes as ‘wicked’) 

driven by Gadot’s character might have got a working 

out in the film, but she was only ever permitted to drive 

it in first gear. Her daily drive is an Audi TT Roadster. 

‘We [women] like convertibles. They’re not good for the 

hair, but they’re very pretty.’ 

At the time of our conversation, Gadot mentioned that 

she would guest-star on a few episodes of Entourage, 

while her other roles were still under wraps. Her recent 

marriage to Yaron Versano was also part of her journey. 

‘I just met “the one”. He’s very capable and able to deal 

with everything going on in my life.’ 

We might even see Gadot on our shores, too. She 

recalls that at high school, many of her schoolmates 

made plans to travel after they were demobbed. ‘[In the 

Army,] after two or three years, you feel someone took 

your freedom [away]. They [planned to] go to India, 

Taiwan, China. I always thought I’d go to New Zealand 

and Australia. It looks amazing.’ 


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craft 

“It is said that a Panama 

of true quality can hold 

water and can be folded 

for storage without 

damage.” 

▲ 

17th century 

interpretation of saint 

James the Greater by 

the Peruvian school of 

Cuzco. The pilgrim hat has 

become a Panama hat. 

Story Miguel Kirjon Photography Fotografia Basica 

The Panama 

Surviving the tests of time 

A Panama hat or just Panama is a traditional brimmed 

hat of Ecuadorian origin that is made from the plaited 

leaves of the toquilla straw plant. 

Panama hats are often seen as accessories to summer 

weight suits, such as linen or silk. Beginning around the 

turn of the century, panamas began to be associated 

with the seaside and tropical locales, such as Brighton 

or the Caribbean. They are usually preferred over felt 

hats in such climates for they are light coloured, light 

weight, and breathable. 

Beginning in the late 1960s, hats in general were worn 

less often. However, the Panama seems to be one of 

the few hats to survive the tests of time. Men can still 

be seen sporting a Panama in the tropics. It is, by no 

means, as popular as it was during the golden age of 

hats, but it is still surviving. As a matter of fact, well 

founded hat companies, such as Dobbs, Stetson and 

Cavanaugh, now produce more Panama styled hats 

than felt hats, such as fedoras or bowlers. 

Despite its name, the famous “Panama Hat” did not 

originate in Panama at all, but in Ecuador, where a 

thriving hat-weaving industry utilizes the leaves of 

Carludovica palmata. It takes six young leaves from 

C. palmata, commonly referred to as the “Panama 

hat palm,” to make one hat. Panama hats are also 

manufactured in Mexico and other areas of tropical 

America where C. palmata grows. 

Many explanations have been offered for the misnomer 

“Panama hat.” Some sources claim the hat earned 

its name because it was exported to North America 

via Central America, and the first country entered in 

Central America is Panama. Others credit prospectors 

during the Gold Rush who bought the hats in Panama 

on their way back from California. Still others believe 

the name came about because workers constructing 

the Panama Canal used the hats to protect themselves 

from the sun. However, everyone agrees that Ecuador 

was and still is the main supplier of these handmade 

hats. 

Since 1630, when the first hat-weaving activities were 

recorded, Panama hats have had major economic 

importance, with Ecuador alone exporting 1 million hats 

annually. For a genuine Panama hat, the entire hatmaking 

process, except for a few finishing operations 

at the exporters’ plants, is accomplished manually. This 

includes planting C. palmata, harvesting the leaves, 

and preparing them for weaving. After the leaves are 

collected, they are divided into strips, boiled in water, 

bleached with lemon juice, and dried. The dried strips 

are then handwoven into the famous hats. 

Panama hat quality is a heavily disputed subject. There 

are two main processes in the hat’s creation: weaving 

and blocking. The best way to gauge the quality of the 

weave is to count the number of weaves per square 

inch. Fewer than 100 would be considered low quality. 

There are many degrees of increasing quality, up to 

the rarest and most expensive hats, which can have 

as many as 1600–2000 weaves per square inch; it is 

not unheard of for these hats to sell for thousands of 

dollars apiece, a $500 hat for $30,000 no less. 

The quality of the weave itself, however, is more 

important. A high weave count, even an attractivelooking 

one, does not guarantee a well-woven hat. It is 

said that a Panama of true quality can hold water and 

can be folded for storage without damage. 

Even though the Panama continues to provide 

a livelihood for thousands of Ecuadorians, fewer 

than a dozen weavers capable of making the finest 

“montecristi superfinos” remain; the UK’s Financial 

Times Magazine (Jan. 2007) reported that there 

may not be more than 15-20 years remaining for the 

industry in Ecuador, due to the competition of paperbased 

Chinese-made imitations, especially as a few hat 

sellers dominate and manipulate the market, killing the 

industry. 

Despite the confusion over the origin of its name, the 

Panama hat has transcended the fickle fashion world 

for several centuries. 


Photography Morand + Zwirner www.morandzwirner.com 

Art Direction/Stylist Paris Libby 

Prop Stylist Susan Anderson for the Rex Agency 

Makeup Kathy Jeung for Magnet LA 

Hair Syd Curry for Solo Artists 

Models Victor Ross and Ji Son for LA Models 

Special Effects Prostetics Chris Nelson 

Photo Assistants Tertius Bune, Nelson Auge 

Lighting Assistants Jason Salonen, Tak Matsuda 

Her (ghost): Dress: Roberto Cavali, Hair Piece: Vintage Donna Marie, Earrings: Chris Aire 

Her: Dress: Ports 1961, Shoes: Versace, Jewellery: Chris Aire 

Him: Suit/Shirt: Alexander Mc Queen, Tie: YSL, Shoes: Alejandro Ingelmo (Saks Fifth Ave) 


Suit: Burberry, Shirt: Dolce & Gabanna, Tie: Ermenegildo Zegna Cape: I Magnum, Dress: Donna Karen (Saks Fifith Ave), Belt: Reem Acra, Shoes: Stuart Weitzman, Purse: Rodo 


Gown: Dolce & Gabanna, Jewellery: Chris Aire, Shoes: Dolce & Gabanna 


Jacket: Moods of Norway, Pants: Ralph Lauren, Shoes: A. Testoni, Shirt: Dries Van Noten, Watch: Maurice Lacroix Jacket: Donna Karen (Saks Fifth Ave), Gloves: Vintage Chanel 


Him: Suit: Gucci (Saks Fifthe Ave), Shirt: Michael Bastain (Saks Fifthe Ave), Shoes: Versace 

Her: Dress: Oscar de la Renta (Saks Fifthe Ave), Shoes: Christian Louboutin (Saks Fifthe Ave), Butterfly Hat: Paris Libby 


Story Miguel Kirjon Photography Tesla Motors 

Freedom of Motion 

A brief look at the quickest and the most energy-efficient cars on 

the planet 

At the core of Tesla Motors is the belief that an 

electric car need not be a driving sacrifice. They have 

brought the best of the automotive and technology 

worlds together to permanently bury the image of 

an electric car as a step backwards in performance, 

efficiency, or design. Their key technology is the 

100% electric powertrain, which propels us in the 

present and simultaneously establishes a foundation 

for their future models. 

Tesla set out to forever alter perceptions of electric 

vehicles and to make electric cars a viable alternative. 

They have produced a car that is at once beautiful and 

exciting to drive, along with being the most efficient 

production automobile on the planet. 

Tesla Motors Inc. is a Silicon Valley startup that 

engineers and manufactures electric vehicles (EVs). 

It is currently the only automaker building and selling 

highway-capable EVs in serial production (as opposed 

to prototype or evaluation fleet production) in North 

America or Europe. Tesla is producing about 25 

cars per week – mostly custom-ordered vehicles 

manufactured to owners’ specifications. 

The Tesla Roadster, the company’s first vehicle, is the 

first production automobile to use lithium-ion battery 

cells and the first production EV to travel more than 

200 miles (320 km) per charge. The vehicle set a new 

EV distance record in April 2009 when it completed 

the 241-mile (388 km) Rallye Monte Carlo d’Energies 

Alternatives with 36 miles (58 km) left on the charge. 

The standard, base-model Roadster does 0-60 mph 

(97 km/h) in 3.9 seconds and, according to an 

environmental analysis, is twice as energy-efficient as 

the Toyota Prius. 

The company had delivered more than 500 Roadsters 

to customers in the United States and Europe as 

of June 2009. Tesla has taken more than 1,500 

reservations for and expects to begin production of an 

all-electric sedan, the Model S, starting in late 2011. 

The company is named for Serbian electrical engineer 

and 20th century physicist Nikola Tesla, who invented 

the AC induction motor. 

The very definition of automobile is freedom of motion. 

The word itself originated as a literal way to define a 

vehicle that moves under its own power without need 

for another vehicle – such as a horse or locomotive. 

Today the definition of automobile often includes 

association with an internal combustion engine. 

Tesla is here to change this definition one car at a 

time. The world will once again use the automobile to 

transport us free of convention. Tesla Motors will be 

part of this liberation. The Tesla Roadster moves not 

only under its own power, but ultimately free of the 

existing and increasingly troublesome petroleum-based 

infrastructure. 

For 130,000 years humans looked upon the moon 

with wonder and speculation. On July 20, 1969 we 

walked on its surface. Sixty years ago a computer was 

comprised of more than 17,000 vacuum tubes and 

weighed 30 tons. Today one can place many times 

this same computing power in a jeans pocket. The 

end result of technological achievement is often so 

impressive that we forget the drive of the innovators 

behind the solution. 

While Tesla is a technology company, they deliver their 

automotive innovation with enthusiasm and passion for 

design. They are engineers and designers, drivers and 

racers as well as executives. 

The 30-ton computer will easily fit in your pocket. The 

moon will not seem so far away. The car you drive will 

liberate you from convention. That car will be a Tesla. 

28 twinpalms twinpalms 29 

“The standard, basemodel 

Roadster does 

0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 

3.9 seconds” 

cars


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animals 

“A single bit is enough to 

kill 20 people, or even an 

elephant” 

“With their keen eyesight 

King Cobras are able 

to detect moving prey 

almost 100 m away” 

▲ 

Color pencil drawing by 

Scarlett Roya 

Story Miguel Kirjon Photography Omar Ariff Kamarul Ariffin 

King of Snakes 

A mighty predator and a marvel of nature 

It seems unfairly menacing that a snake that can 

literally “stand up” and look a full-grown person in 

the eye would also be among the most venomous on 

the planet, but that describes the famous king cobra. 

King cobras can reach 18 feet (5.5 meters) in length, 

making them the longest of all venomous snakes. 

When confronted, they can raise up to one-third of their 

bodies straight off the ground and still move forward 

to attack. They will also flare out their iconic hoods 

and emit a bone-chilling hiss that sounds almost like a 

growling dog. 

Their venom is not the most potent among venomous 

snakes, but the amount of neurotoxin they can deliver 

in a single bite—up to two-tenths of a fluid ounce 

(seven milliliters)—is enough to kill 20 people, or even 

an elephant. Fortunately, king cobras are shy and 

will avoid humans whenever possible, but they are 

fiercely aggressive when cornered. The King Cobra’s 

venom is primarily neurotoxic and thus attacks the 

victim’s central nervous system and quickly induces 

severe pain, blurred vision, vertigo, drowsiness, and 

paralysis. In one to two minutes, cardiovascular 

collapse occurs, and the victim falls into a coma. 

Death soon follows due to respiratory failure. There 

are two types of antivenin made specifically to treat 

King Cobra envenomations. The Red Cross in Thailand 

manufactures one, and the Central Research Institute 

in India manufactures the other, however both are 

made in small quantities, and are not widely available 

King cobras live mainly in the rain forests and plains 

of India, southern China, and Southeast Asia, and 

their coloring can vary greatly from region to region. 

They are comfortable in the trees, on land, and in 

water, feeding mainly on other snakes, venomous 

and nonvenomous. They will also eat lizards, eggs, 

and small mammals. King Cobras, like other snakes, 

receive chemical information (“smell”) via their forked 

tongues, which pick up scent particles and transfer 

them to a special sensory receptor (Jacobson’s Organ) 

located in the roof of its mouth. When the scent of 

a potential meal has been detected, the snake will 

continue to flick its tongue to gauge the prey’s direction 

(the twin forks of the tongue acting in stereo); it will 

also rely on its keen eyesight (King Cobras are able to 

detect moving prey almost 100 m away), intelligence 

and sensitivity to earth-borne vibration to track its prey. 

Following envenomation, the King Cobra will begin to 

swallow its struggling prey while its toxins begin the 

digestion of its victim. King Cobras, as with all other 

snakes, do not have rigidly fixed jaws. Instead, the jaw 

bones are connected by extremely pliable ligaments, 

enabling the lower jaw bones to move independently of 

each other. Like other snakes, the King Cobra does not 

chew its food, instead it swallows its prey whole. The 

expansion of the jaw enables the snake to swallow prey 

much larger than its head. 

They are the only snakes in the world that build nests 

for their eggs, which they guard ferociously until the 

hatchlings emerge. If a King Cobra encounters a natural 

predator, such as the mongoose, which has some 

resistance to the neurotoxins, the cobra will generally 

try to flee. If all else fails, it will flatten its upper body 

by spreading its ribs, forming the distinctive cobra 

hood about its neck, and emit a high-pitched hiss, 

sometimes with feigned closed-mouth strikes. These 

efforts usually prove to be very effective, especially 

since the cobra is more dangerous than other 

mongoose prey. 

Like all species of snakes, King Cobras shed their skin, 

typically four to six times per year as adults, and every 

month as juveniles. To get the skin to start to peel, the 

King Cobra will rub its snout against rough surfaces to 

encourage the shedding process. 

King cobras may be best known as the species 

of choice for the snake charmers of South Asia. 

Although cobras can hear, they are actually deaf to 

ambient noises, sensing ground vibrations instead. 

The charmer’s flute entices the cobra by its shape and 

movement, not by the music it emits. The king cobra is 

worshipped as a divine deity especially in Tamil Nadu 

prominently. Many temples were built for the snake god 

and King Cobra is seen as the deity in representation to 

snake god. There is a semi urban city called Nagercoil 

in Tamil Nadu which derives its name from the temple 

built for the snake god. Nager(snake)Covil(temple) is a 

temple which still has a number of followers and they 

abhor killing a snake. 


Story & Photogarphy Miguel Kirjon, Mike Thomas 

Lord of the Land 

Animistic beliefs as part of Thailand’s cultural heritage 

Buddhism is an extremely tolerant religion and in 

principle it allows the integration of any other religion 

to a much further extend than other religions do the 

same. In the case of Thailand, the everyday set of 

religious beliefs incorporates a fair share of animistic 

traditions. And while in the Western connotation, any 

form of animism is considered a mark of a primitive 

society, Thais in general don’t at all hide their 

animistic beliefs but practice them openly, and not 

just in remote villages but in between the skyscrapers 

of modern Bangkok as well. And they even defend 

animistic beliefs as part of their cultural heritage. 

According to Thai cosmology, what happens to us 

in the present life – which is within the continuum 

of lifetimes – is determined not only by our actions 

in previous lives but also by external powers and 

supernatural forces which are beyond human being’s 

control. Supernatural powers are not edged out by 

consumerism. On the contrary, they co-exist very well. 

In ever more over-heated Bangkok, there is a Mercedes 

Benz dealer who looks to the comfort of the resident 

genius loci by keeping the spirithouse inside the coolly 

air-conditioned showroom. Coup-plotters still consult 

fortune-tellers for the most opportune time for their 

actions. The same goes for investors planning big 

projects, couples contemplating marriage, parents-tobe 

facing a Caesarian birth, wives hoping to see off 

mistresses, mistresses hoping to confound wives. 

In Thailand, according to the Traveller’s Guide to 

Thailand, published by the Tourism Authority of 

Thailand, notes on one of the kingdom’s festivals, the 

Ploughing Ceremony: “The Ploughing Ceremony is of 

Brahman origin and the auspicious day and hour are 

still set by the Brahman astrologers.” And as the Thai 

newspaper Nation reported in a review of the year 

1972, it was on an auspicious time given by the royal 

astrologer when Prince Vajiralongkorn, the eldest son 

of King Bhumiphol was invested as Crown Prince on 

December 1st, 1972 , exactly at 12:23. 

In Thailand just as in Hong Kong, spirits are matters 

to be taken into consideration just as the British take 

into consideration the weather. One always has to be 

prepared for capers. However, with concern to spirits, 

Thais as well as the Chinese are more inclined than 

the British with concern to the weather, to attempt to 

influence the supernatural powers, today as much as a 

hundred or two hundred years ago. 

While fortune-tellers and astrologers offer their services 

around Wats and on sidewalks throughout the country, 

the most striking evidence of the importance, the belief 

in spirits plays in Thai everyday life are spirit houses. In 

every compound throughout Bangkok and the whole of 

Thailand – outside or in Thai homes, hotels, hospitals 

or office buildings – there is a miniature gaily-painted 

house, placed at a level with or slightly higher than the 

eyes of a standing person of average height, the abode 

of Phra Phum, the Lord of the Land or the Lord of the 

Place. 

When a new home is to be built, the first thing to do 

is to find a suitable place in the garden for the spirit 

house. Selection of the location and placing of the little 

house can only properly be done by someone well 

versed in the lore – usually a Brahmin priest. It must 

face either north or south – preferably north; it must not 

be in a spot where the owner’s house overshadows it, 

else the spirit will not come to live in it. A post is set up 

at the chosen site and the little house is perched atop 

the post. 

The small house contains a single room with an outer 

terrace (slightly lower than the room) where daily 

offerings to the guardian spirit are placed. A symbolic 

picture of the spirit is carved on a small piece of wood 

which is placed inside the little house with its back 

toward the far wall. The picture is in a standing position 

with a leaf-like halo around the head. In the right hand 

is usually a double-edged sword and sometimes in 

the left hand, a book. It is believed that deaths of the 

people under the spirit’s protection are registered in the 

book. 

At the time of installation of the spirit house, food, fruit, 

candles, incense and flowers are placed on a table 

before the shrine while the spirit is invited to come and 

make his home in the shrine and protect the property 

and the residents of the new home. 

Each evening, fresh flowers, incense sticks and candles 

are placed on the small gallery of the little house. Extra 

special food offerings are made on important days 

such as the anniversary of the installation of Phra Phum 

in his house, on New Year’s Day and other special 

occasions. It is a rule that such food will be offered only 

in the morning and not later than 11:00. 

When a stranger arrives as a guest in the house, he 

or she should, according to Thai customs, first ask 

the spirit for permission to stay for the night and for 


religion 

“The most striking evidence 

of the importance, 

the belief in spirits plays 

in Thai everyday life are 

spirit houses” 

“Supernatural powers 

are not edged out by 

consumerism” 

t 

A spirit house in Phuket

eligion 

u 

The Erawan Shrine 

in Bangkok 

protection before going to sleep. This is because Thais 

believe that if they do not follow this tradition, their 

sleep will be disturbed with awful nightmares, while 

the evil spirit or “Phee” would sit on his/her chest 

and cause him/her to have great difficulty breathing. 

Moreover before the guest’s departure the next 

morning, he or she should pay a farewell visit to the 

spirit house, and request a safe journey. The same 

respect and courtesy is shown the spirit by the guest 

as given to his host. 

If any of the family members have a premonition of 

misfortune, want to overcome some difficulty or have 

a great need for something which seems impossible 

to obtain, they will light a candle and incense and, in a 

sincere, respectful manner, ask the spirit for his help. 

At the same time, the family member will promise a 

reward for the spirit in return, such as a duck, chicken 

or a huge coconut; sometimes the reward may be a 

number of servants, elephants or horses. If the prayer 

is granted and the reward not given, it is believed that 

nightmares will haunt the guilty one or unpleasant 

things will happen to him. Hence, the miniature 

servants or animals which are made of clay or paper, 

usually appear in the little house, to symbolize living 

servants and animals. 

The home owner who starts out with a small home 

and a small spirit house, when and if he is blessed 

with good fortune and able to afford it, will improve or 

enlarge the spirit house before his own. 

While spirit houses of Thai homes typically are 

just about the size of bird houses, they can be of 

substantial size in front of office buildings or hotels. A 

number of particularly large spirit houses can be seen 

in Bangkok at and near to the intersection of Rajadamri 

Road and Ploenchit Road. Located there is the most 

famous spirit house, or rather spirit shrine of Bangkok, 

Erawan Shrine. 

The shrine was built in 1956 when the original Erawan 

Hotel nearby was under construction. However, 

misfortune accompanied the work at the hotel; a 

number of accidents happened, and when word 

got round the workers that spirits were against the 

project, an astrologer and spirit doctor was called. He 

concluded that, indeed, the spirits of the place have 

been offended as some trees in which they used to live 

were chopped down. 

After this ‘cause’ of the accidents had been singled 

out, the shrine was built rather hastily. It has to be 

noted that the shrine has nothing to do with Buddhism. 

The statue housed there is of Brahma, one of the 

gods of the Hindu Trinity. Nevertheless, most of the 

worshippers at the shrine are nominally Buddhist. 

38 twinpalms 

Since 1956, Erawan Shrine has become something like 

a Thai Lourdes Grotto where people go to have wishes 

miraculously fulfilled. 

Other very large spirit shrines are nearby at the World 

Trade Center and at the Amarin Plaza. However, both 

are by far not as popular as Erawan Shrine. 

Along New Petchburi Road in Bangkok are several 

factories for spirit shrines of all sizes, and Chatuchak 

Weekend Market also has a section for spirit houses.

Story Miguel Kirjon Photography Eric Vega, Arman Zhenikeyev, Ron Chapple 

The growth in Tattoo culture 

The symbolism and impact of tattoos in different places and 

cultures 

A tattoo is a permanent marking made by inserting 

ink into the layers of skin to change the pigment for 

decorative or other reasons. Tattoos on humans are 

a type of decorative body modification, while tattoos 

on animals are most commonly used for identification 

or branding. 

Tattooing has been practiced worldwide. The Ainu, the 

indigenous people of Japan, traditionally wore facial 

tattoos. Today one can find Berbers of Tamazgha and 

Maori of New Zealand with facial tattoos. Tattooing 

was widespread among Polynesian peoples and 

among certain tribal groups in the Philippines, Borneo, 

Mentawai Islands, Africa, North America, South 

America, Mesoamerica, Europe, Japan, Cambodia, 

New Zealand and Micronesia. Despite some taboos 

surrounding tattooing, the art continues to be popular 

in many parts of the world. 


History 

Tattooing has been a Eurasian practice at least since 

Neolithic times. Ötzi the Iceman, dating from the fourth 

to fifth millennium BC, was found in the Ötz valley in 

the Alps and had approximately 57 carbon tattoos 

consisting of simple dots and lines on his lower spine, 

behind his left knee, and on his right ankle. Other 

mummies bearing tattoos and dating from the end of 

the second millennium BC have been discovered, such 

as the Mummy of Amunet from Ancient Egypt and the 

mummies at Pazyryk on the Ukok Plateau. Tattooing 

in Japan is thought to go back to the Paleolithic era, 

some ten thousand years ago. Various other cultures 

have had their own tattoo traditions, ranging from 

rubbing cuts and other wounds with ashes, to handpricking 

the skin to insert dyes. 

Tattooing in the Western world today has its origins in 

Polynesia, and in the discovery of tatau by eighteenth 

century explorers. The Polynesian practice became 

popular among European sailors, before spreading to 

Western societies generally. 

Tattoos are created by inserting colored materials 

inside the skin’s surface. The first tattoos probably were 

created by an accident. Someone had a small wound, 

and rubbed it with soot and ashes from a fire. Once 

the wound had healed, they saw that a mark stayed 

permanently. 

Purposes 

Decorative and spiritual uses 

Tattoos have served as rites of passage, marks of 

status and rank, symbols of religious and spiritual 

devotion, decorations for bravery, sexual lures and 

marks of fertility, pledges of love, punishment, amulets 

and talismans, protection, and as the marks of 

outcasts, slaves and convicts. The symbolism and 

impact of tattoos varies in different places and cultures, 

sometimes with unintended consequences. Also, 

tattoos may show how a person feels about a relative 

(commonly mother/father or daughter/son) or about an 

unrelated person. 

Today, people choose to be tattooed for cosmetic, 

sentimental/memorial, religious, and magical reasons, 

and to symbolize their belonging to or identification 

with particular groups, including criminal gangs and 

prostitutes but also a particular ethnic group or lawabiding 

subculture. Some Maori still choose to wear 

intricate moko on their faces. In Laos, Cambodia, 

and Thailand, the yantra tattoo is used for protection 

against evil and to increase luck. 

Identification 

People have also been forcibly tattooed for various 

reasons. The well known example is the identification 

system for inmates /Jews in concentration camps 

during the Holocaust. However, tattoos can be linked 

with identification in more positive ways. For example, 

in the period of early contact between the Maori and 

Europeans, Maori chiefs sometimes drew their moko 

(facial tattoo) on documents in place of a signature. 

Even today, tattoos are sometimes used by forensic 

pathologists to help them identify burned, putrefied, 

or mutilated bodies. Tattoo pigment is buried deep 

enough in the skin that even severe burns will often 

not destroy a tattoo. Because of this, many members 

of today’s military will have their identification tags 

tattooed onto their chests (these are sometimes known 

as “meat tags” in the American armed forces). For 

many centuries seafarers have undergone tattooing for 

the purpose of enabling identification after drowning. 

In this way recovered bodies of such drowned persons 

could be connected with their family members or 

friends before burial. Therefore tattooists often worked 

in ports where potential customers were numerous. The 

traditional custom continues today in the Royal Navy 

(Great Britain) and in many others. 

body art 

“The symbolism and 

impact of tattoos varies 

in different places and 

cultures, sometimes 

with unintended 

consequences” 

“The first tattoos 

probably were created 

by an accident” 

▲ 

A Maori Chief with 

tattoos (moko) seen by 

Cook and his crew

ody art 

“The growth in tattoo 

culture has seen an 

influx of new artists into 

the industry, many of 

whom have technical 

and fine arts training” 

“14% of all adults in the 

United States have at 

least one tattoo” 

▲ 

A tattoo on the right arm 

of a Scythian chieftain, 

whose mummy was discovered 

at Pazyryk, Russia 

Cosmetic 

When used as a form of cosmetics, tattooing includes 

permanent makeup, and hiding or neutralizing skin 

discolorations. Permanent makeup are tattoos that 

enhance eyebrows, lips (liner and/or lipstick), eyes 

(liner), and even moles, usually with natural colors as 

the designs are intended to resemble makeup. 

Medical 

Medical tattoos are used to ensure instruments 

are properly located for repeated application of 

radiotherapy and for the areola in some forms of breast 

reconstruction. Tattooing has also been used to convey 

medical information about the wearer (e.g blood group). 

Prevalence 

Tattoos have experienced a resurgence in popularity 

in many parts of the world, particularly in North and 

South America, Japan, and Europe. The growth in 

tattoo culture has seen an influx of new artists into 

the industry, many of whom have technical and fine 

arts training. Coupled with advancements in tattoo 

pigments and the ongoing refinement of the equipment 

used for tattooing, this has led to an improvement in 

the quality of tattoos being produced. 

During the first decade of the 21st century, the 

presence of tattoos became evident within pop culture, 

inspiring television shows such as A&E’s Inked and 

TLC’s Miami Ink and LA Ink. The decoration of blues 

singer Janis Joplin with a wristlet and a small heart on 

her left breast, by the San Francisco tattoo artist Lyle 

Tuttle, is taken as a seminal moment in the popular 

acceptance of tattoos as art. As seen in the 2007 

movie Eastern Promises, body art again features 

heavily, showcasing the ink-embroidered torso of a 

Russian mobster. Tattoos are generally considered an 

important part of the culture of the Russian mafia. 

In many traditional cultures tattooing has also enjoyed 

a resurgence, partially in deference to cultural heritage. 

Historically, a decline in traditional tribal tattooing 

in Europe occurred with the spread of Christianity. 

However, some Christian groups, such as the Knights 

of St. John of Malta, sported tattoos to show their 

allegiance. A decline often occurred in other cultures 

following European efforts to convert aboriginal and 

indigenous people to Western religious and cultural 

practices that held tattooing to be a “pagan” or 

“heathen” activity. Within some traditional indigenous 

cultures, tattooing takes place within the context of a 

rite of passage between adolescence and adulthood. 

A poll conducted online in January 2008 by Harris 

Interactive estimated that 14% of all adults in the 

United States have at least one tattoo, just slightly 

down from 2003, when 16% had a tattoo. The highest 

incidence of tattoos was found among the gay, lesbian 

and bisexual population (25%) and among Americans 

ages 25 to 29 years (32%) and 30 to 39 years (25%). 

The youngest age group (18-24) and the oldest age 

group (65 and older) are the least likely to have a tattoo 

(9%). Men (15%) are just slightly more likely to have a 

tattoo than women (13%). Regionally, people living in 

the West (20%) were more likely to have tattoos. 

Negative associations 

In Japan, tattoos are strongly associated with the 

Yakuza, particularly full body tattoos done the 

traditional Japanese way (“Tebori”). Certain public 

Japanese bathhouses and gymnasiums often openly 

ban those bearing large or graphic tattoos in an 

attempt to prevent Yakuza from entering. 

In the United States many prisoners and criminal gangs 

use distinctive tattoos to indicate facts about their 

criminal behavior, prison sentences, and organizational 

affiliation. “Tear tattoos”, for example, can be symbolic 

of murder, with each tear representing a death of a 

friend. Insofar as this cultural or subcultural use of 

tattoos predates the widespread popularity of tattoos 

in the general population, tattoos are still associated 

with criminality. At the same time, members of the 

U.S. military have an equally well established and 

longstanding history of tattooing to indicate military 

units, battles, kills, etc., an association which remains 

widespread among older Americans. Tattooing is also 

common in the British Armed Forces. 

Tattoos can have additional negative associations for 

women. Although derogatory slang phrases such as 

“tramp stamp” are sometimes used to describe a tattoo 

on a woman’s lower back, it remains one of the most 

popular spots for a tattoo for females. The prevalence 

of women in the tattoo industry itself, along with larger 

numbers of women bearing tattoos, has changed 

negative perceptions. 

A study of “at-risk” (as defined by school absenteeism 

and truancy) adolescent girls showed a positive 

correlation between body-modification and negative 

feelings towards the body and self-esteem; however, 

it also illustrated a strong motive of body-modification 

as the search for “self and attempts to attain mastery 

and control over the body in an age of increasing 

alienation.” 

Procedure 

Some tribal cultures traditionally created tattoos by 

cutting designs into the skin and rubbing the resulting 

wound with ink, ashes or other agents; some cultures 

continue this practice, which may be an adjunct to 

scarification. Some cultures create tattooed marks by 


hand-tapping the ink into the skin using sharpened 

sticks or animal bones (made like needles) with clay 

formed disk or, in modern times, needles. Traditional 

Japanese tattoos (Horimono) are still “hand-poked,” 

that is, the ink is inserted beneath the skin using nonelectrical, 

hand-made and hand held tools with needles 

of sharpened bamboo or steel. This method is known 

as “Tebori”. 

The most common method of tattooing in modern 

times is the electric tattoo machine, which inserts ink 

into the skin via a group of needles that are soldered 

onto a bar, which is attached to an oscillating unit. The 

unit rapidly and repeatedly drives the needles in and 

out of the skin, usually 80 to 150 times a second. This 

modern procedure is ordinarily sanitary. The needles 

are single-use needles that come packaged individually. 

The tattoo artist must wash not only his or her hands, 

but they must also wash the area that will be tattooed. 

Gloves must be worn at all times and the wound must 

be wiped frequently with a wet disposable towel of 

some kind. 

Prices for this service vary widely globally and locally, 

depending on the complexity of the tattoo, the skill and 

expertise of the artist, the attitude of the customer, the 

costs of running a business, the economics of supply 

and demand, etc. The time it takes to get a tattoo is in 

proportion with its size and complexity. A small one of 

simple design might take fifteen minutes, whereas an 

elaborate sleeve tattoo or back piece requires multiple 

sessions of several hours each. 

“Stick and poke” 

A technique often used for home-made tattoos is “stick 

and poke”. The tip of a sewing needle is wrapped in 

ink-soaked thread, leaving only the point protruding. 

Keeping this simple instrument saturated with ink, 

the skin is pricked over and over, creating a design. 

The purpose of the thread is to keep the point of the 

needle coated in ink, increasing the quantity of ink that 

penetrates the skin. Inks can be improvised from a 

number of sources such as coal, ashes or shoe polish, 

but Higgins “Black Magic” waterproof ink is the brand 

most commonly cited by collectors of so-called “India 

ink” or “stick and poke” tattoos in the United States. 

Sometimes called “prison tattoos”, these tattoos are 

popular with gutter punks and others associated with 

the modern hobo subculture, who frequently tattoo 

visible parts of their bodies, including their hands and 

faces. 

“Natural” tattoos 

According to George Orwell, coal miners could develop 

characteristic tattoos owing to coal dust getting into 

wounds. This can also occur with substances like 

gunpowder. Similarly, a traumatic tattoo occurs when 

a substance such as asphalt is rubbed into a wound 

as the result of some kind of accident or trauma. 

These are particularly difficult to remove as they tend 

to be spread across several different layers of skin, 

and scarring or permanent discoloration is almost 

unavoidable depending on the location. In addition, 

tattooing of the gingiva from implantation of amalgam 

particles during dental filling placement and removal 

is possible and not uncommon. A common example 

of such accidental tattoos is the result of a deliberate 

or accidental stabbing with a pencil or pen, leaving 

graphite or ink beneath the skin. 

Dyes and pigments 

Early tattoo inks were obtained directly from nature and 

were extremely limited in pigment variety. Today, an 

almost unlimited number of colors and shades of tattoo 

ink are mass-produced and sold to parlors worldwide. 

Tattoo artists commonly mix these inks to create their 

own, unique pigments. 

A wide range of dyes and pigments can be used 

in tattoos, from inorganic materials like titanium 

dioxide and iron oxides to carbon black, azo dyes, 

and acridine, quinoline, phthalocyanine and naphthol 

derivates, dyes made from ash, and other mixtures. 

The current trend for tattoo pigment favors Acrylonitrile 

butadiene styrene (ABS plastic) as seen by the 

widespread popularity of Intenze, Millennium and other 

ABS pigmented brands. 

Iron oxide pigments are used in greater extent in 

cosmetic tattooing. Many pigments were found 

to be used in a survey of professional tattooists. 

Recently, a blacklight-reactive tattoo ink using PMMA 

microcapsules has surfaced. The technical name is 

BIOMETRIX System-1000, and is marketed under the 

name “Chameleon Tattoo Ink”. This same ink can also 

be found as “The Original Blacklight Inks by NEWWEST 

Technologies”. 


body art 

“The electric tattoo 

machine rapidly and 

repeatedly drives the 

needles in and out of the 

skin, usually 80 to 150 

times a second” 

▲ 

Tattooing is a tradition 

amongst indigenous peoples 

around the world. 

▲ 

▲ 

Lower back tattoos are 

more common among 

young women.

ikes 

“The ultimate compliment 

is hearing guys say 

they need one Heretic for 

the living room and one 

to ride” 

“By appointment only 

to customers who have 

placed deposits” 

▲ 

ECOSSE watch 

u 

Titanium Series 

uu 

The Heretic. 

Photo by Ron Reeves 

Story & Photogarphy Ecosse 

The ultimate Hot Rod 

ECOSSE’s exquisite two-wheeled creations 

In a non-descript building south of Denver, ECOSSE 

Moto Works turns out the world’s most extraordinary 

machines, one by one. Enter the unassuming 

concrete fortress and you’re greeted by an eclectic 

collection of motorcycles – from a vintage Seeley 

race bike to a Gilera, BSAs, Nortons… and a 

championship carbon-fiber Bimota SB8R. Amidst 

the vast collection in the greeting area, the first 

production ECOSSE Heretic (serial 01) takes center 

stage under a billet ECOSSE sign. The massive sign 

was a gift from an appreciative owner – a matching 

one is prominently displayed in the customer’s 

immaculate garage alongside his prized motorcycle. 

More retro, underground machine shop than glitzy 

design space, ECOSSE Moto Works’ home is an 

homage to the handcrafted motorcycles that take 

shape in this Rocky Mountain headquarters. 

Access to the fortress is limited – by appointment only 

to customers who have placed deposits – to protect 

the privacy of high-profile customers as well as ensure 

the proper attention is paid to each customer. Owners 

fly in to spec colors and finishes and to determine 

the proper setup for their desired riding position and 

favorite type of riding. 

Don Atchison, founder and designer, is a speed freak 

who grew up riding dirt bikes as his main mode of 

transportation in rural Washington state. The downhill 

ski racer, road racer and former Marine Corps Officer 

began thinking about his version of the ideal street bike 

back in the ’90s after his tastes changed to V-Twins 

(Harleys and a Bimota DB4 that he raced) while getting 

his MBA. “It drove me nuts that Harleys couldn’t break 

or turn. Why can’t someone retain the fun and torque 

of that motor in a chassis that works?” Atchison 

wondered. Napkin sketches were transformed to CAD 

drawings and ECOSSE was formed in late 2001. 

Atchison’s deep affection for the quick and obscure 

– in addition to his appreciation for the functionality 

of watches, aircraft and weapons with exposed 

mechanisms – strongly influenced the form-followsfunction 

nature of the company’s first model. The 

Heretic, so named for its aversion to all things standard 

and its defiance of classification – is it a V-Twin hot 

rod or exotic superbike? – was perfected in 2004 

after three complete prototype iterations. X-3, the final 

prototype, named in true experimental aircraft protocol, 

was the basis for the following limited-production 

models (only 100 examples of The Heretic will be 

produced). 

Customers include celebrities, rock stars, athletes, 

collectors and plain-old motorcycle enthusiasts. “We 

matched one bike to a customer’s race car, another 

waited for the serial number of his jersey, and yet 

others have placed their names on waiting lists for the 

next models – without knowing what type of bike we 

will introduce next and no matter what the cost. But the 

ultimate compliment is hearing guys say they need one 

Heretic for the living room and one to ride,” Atchison 

says with a smile. “Some of our customers have large 

collections and we often hear that the Heretic becomes 

their motorcycle of choice.” 

He continues, “Sure we’ve built bikes strictly as 

showpieces in companies’ lobbies or as art in 

someone’s home. But when that bike moves from the 

living room to the garage because it just has to be 

ridden – that is truly rewarding and what our bikes are 

all about.” 

While the customers are sold so is the media. Forbes 

declared The Heretic “Bike of the Year” in 2006 and 

made it part of its coveted twelve Ultimate Gifts. 

The motorcycle is a multi-winner of Robb Report’s 

prestigious Best of the Best award and Stuff Magazine 

gave it its Sickest Bike of 2007 honor. It also garnered 

a design award from Robb Report MotorCycling and 

Men’s Vogue commissioned a special one-off limited 

edition for its April issue. 

As Robb Report MotorCycling’s editor, Don Williams 

explains, “Exquisite in both design and execution, The 

ECOSSE Heretic is much too refined to be described 

as a streetfighter despite its naked-bike aggression and 

brutishly displayed air-cooled 2000cc powerplant with 

proprietary 6-speed transmission with Baker internals. 

The spectacular trellis frame and swingarm mingle 

effortlessly with premium Öhlins suspension to ensure 

that your riding experience matches the visual impact 

of this purposeful and unique design.” 

Cycle World’s Mark Hoyer put it this way, “The riding 

position gives a feeling of control and oneness you’d 

never associate with the big-inch potato-potatopotato 

sound in the engine room.” And former 

champion endurance racer Alan Cathcart summarizes 

his experience, “What the Heretic has achieved is 

that it dares to be different, to be a multi-cultural, 

multipurpose, multi-functional motorcycle that’ll 

give you a Rocky Mountain high when you crank it 

into a turn at 80 mph without running out of ground 



49

ikes bikes 

“The supercharged, 

intercooled and fuelinjected 

system boasts 

a staggering amount of 

torque and power – >200 

hp and >200 ft-lbs of 

torque at the rear wheel 

at sea level.” 

clearance, with that lusty motor beating away beneath 

you, and you find yourself relishing the unexpected 

compliance of its sportsbike suspension. This is a 

motorcycle that spans biking’s great divide between 

sportbikes and cruisers, in creating a new sector in the 

world’s most buoyant model segment.” 


The newest model, six years in the making, is the 

company’s super exclusive Titanium Series RR. 

Capped at only ten examples, it shares some of the 

geometry and styling of The Heretic model but this 

is a decidedly different beast. As designer Atchison 

confirms, “This is a completely different motorcycle 

than The Heretic… different chassis, different engine, 

different suspension, different material, different feel.” 

The dichotomy of sleek styling and ferocious bite is not 

lost on the initial owners. 

The chassis and entire exhaust system are handcrafted 

from titanium. Titanium is notoriously expensive, as well 

as being difficult to source, manipulate and weld – and 

indeed ECOSSE’s welders are specially qualified to turn 

this exotic material into frames and exhaust parts. The 

immense backbone and elaborate trellis frame take two 

welders more than 30 days to complete one chassis. 

Why take on such a daunting challenge? “I’ve always 

been fascinated by titanium. From its extreme fatigue 

resistance to high-yield strength to its sheer beauty that 

doesn’t corrode,” Atchison explains. In that vein, the 

titanium tubing is kept natural without any coating and 

is simply brushed by hand to a subtle sheen. Similarly, 

the carbon-fiber bodywork weave is exposed save for a 

clear coat providing UV protection and a handpainted 

old-school pin stripe. 

The power-to-weight ratio of this new machine is 

mind-boggling. The supercharged, intercooled and 

fuel-injected system boasts a staggering amount of 

torque and power – >200 hp and >200 ft-lbs of torque 

at the rear wheel at sea level. While the carbon-fiber 

bodywork and wheels, titanium chassis and aerospacegrade 

aluminum keep weight to an impressive 440 lbs. 

As with the chassis, the powerplant is built in-house. 

“I’ve been working on this bike for quite some time and 

I knew I wanted an insane amount of power. So we 

developed our own 2100cc dual-cam fuel-injected billet 

engine, designed a supercharger drive system around 

the Rotrex centrifugal supercharger unit and consulted 

Bell Intercooler to design an appropriate unit.” But it 

wasn’t without difficulty. The hardcore R&D process 

took 18 months. “Nothing was available so we had to 

start from scratch: All of the mechanical parts had to 

be designed, created and tested. We had to source a 

blank ECU (electronic control unit) and perform all the 

programming then complete systems integration, dyno 

testing and road testing to make it all work together.” 

The hard work and persistence paid off. The first batch 

of titanium motorcycles delivered this spring. Contrary 

to its industrial, old-world design, the Titanium Series’ 

performance is thoroughly modern. The stunning, 

super-compact transmission is cut from solid billet. 

Shift throws are short with positive engagement. The 

ratios are good, too, with an overdrive top gear to 

keep it all smooth. The fully adjustable Öhlins forks 

and rear shock – tested by an AMA champion on the 

twisty roads of North Carolina – are exactly the same as 

you’ll find on much of the GP grid. While the brakes are 

custom-made ISRs, with six pots on each of the radialmounted 

calipers and adjustable levers to control both 

the amount of braking power supplied and the rider’s 

reach. Clear-coated carbon-fiber BST wheels increase 

hp and torque by 5 units each and reduce overall 

weight by 6.5 lbs. 

The Titanium Series may look like a delicately designed, 

two-wheeled beauty, but press its glowing red starter 

button and an entirely different beast presents itself. 

An explosive, deep roar erupts from its twin exhausts 

and the untamed sound – even at idle – belies a thrilling 

ride from stoplight to stoplight or through the canyons. 

The bike’s appearance may be uncompromisingly 

sporty, but its riding position is akin to sitting in a chair, 

thanks to Atchison’s disdain for achy wrists and back. 

Comfort was central to the design objective. To that 

end, he riding position and foot controls are adjustable, 

the seats are filled with cushy gel, the crankshaft is 

removed and balanced for reduced vibration, and the 

dampened urethane handlebar system reduces hand 

and arm fatigue. 

But what’s truly inspiring is the distinctive look of this 

fine machine featuring bespoke components and 

exquisite details. Embellishments and cool features 

abound. The personalized handlebar clamp is 

machined with the serial number and customer’s 

individual message. An intricate laser-cut logo badge 

is affixed to the carbon-fiber tach shroud. The complex 

upper triple tree is stepped down to allow adjustability 

for the forks and houses the starter button, warning 

lights and tachometer. Bezel-like notches are machined 

in the headlight ring and exhaust hanger. The required 

DOT symbols and verbiage are machined into the 

controls. Poured urethane dampers and custom-made 

bolts carefully constructed in-house. The striking 

machine pattern of the primary cover, chain basket 

cover and air filter. And too many nifty touches to 

mention including the telescopic lunar-landing side 

stand which adjusts to offset the fork and rear shock 

flexibility, the programmable tachometer which records 

0 to 60, 0 to 100 and quartermile times, and the dual 

starter button/oil pressure indicator. (There are three 

models in the Titanium Series line, ranging in price from 

$195,000 to $275,000.) 

It’s only fitting that a motorcycle accessorized with 

jewel-like welds and artistic details come with a 

matching timepiece. ECOSSE worked closely with 

French boutique watchmaker BRM – known for its 

motorsports-inspired industrial timepieces – to design 

a special limited-edition watch to perfectly complement 

the limited-edition motorcycle. A sleek yet substantial 

automatic chronograph was selected. The chassis 

tubing was shipped to France to ensure the exact 

titanium finish for the huge 48mm hexagonal bezel. 

Black stainless steel featuring ECOSSE’s gargoyle logo 

and carbon-fiber accents complete the unique look. 

A skeleton back reveals the watch’s inner workings 

much like the Titanium Series’ engine is exposed. The 

ECOSSE logo typeface and matching serial number are 

engraved on the clear back. Stitching on the smooth, 

rubberized leather band echoes the same detail on the 

streamlined motorcycle seats. 


Coming up 

Though two additional V-Twin models are underway, 

ECOSSE isn’t fixated on American V-Twins. A 

superlight crossover (X-6), F1-derived superbike (X-7) 

and several other models are in various stages of 

development. Design outlines are complete through 

the X-10 prototype driving the devoted collector list to 

grow. 

Despite the heavy workload and wearing multiple 

hats as President, Designer and Chief Engineer, 

Atchison still test rides every one of the bikes and tries 

to personally deliver each finished motorcycle. “An 

extreme focus on customers is part of our mantra. I go 

over the bike with each new customer and they are 

given my cell phone number to contact me directly with 

any question – no matter how insignificant they think 

it might be. I want the ECOSSE to truly be their go-to 

bike of choice.” 

Even with its worldwide status as the premier luxury 

marque of limited-production motorcycles, Atchison 

and the company keep a relatively low profile. “We 

don’t attend many events – we just can’t with the 

current backorder list. It’s nice that the bikes have a 

great following as it allows us to focus on our passion 

without having to leave the Bat Cave much.” Except, of 

course, to ride. 

Currently available: Titanium Series RR, $275,000 

(10 units); Titanium Series (supercharged edition), 

$230,000; Titanium Series race edition, $195,000; 

iconoclast series, $80,000; The Heretic, $75,000. 

“President, Designer and 

Chief Engineer, Atchison 

still test rides every one 

of the bikes and tries to 

personally deliver each 

finished motorcycle.”

sport 

“A woman starting out is 

usually a better climber 

than a man” 

“A man will be a better 

climber if he applies half 

of the technique that 

comes naturally to a 

woman” 

u 


Story Doug Widdis Photogarphy Tyler Olson 

It’s a Man’s World... Not! 

From holding the rope to surpassing the feats accomplished by men 

As a beginning climber, way back in the early ‘80s, 

I was all about the history and books, spraying my 

knowledge and “ability” to any and all that would 

listen. I also loved to climb, and I owned every issue 

of Climbing Magazine from 1982 onwards, and had 

learned to climb under the tutelage of Harvey Carter 

and Bob D’Antonio, to name a few. I was caught up 

in feeding MY ego, telling myself that being dragged 

up hard routes by hard men made me among the 

greats of the era, at least at my local crags! 

My lifetime climbing plans were probably the same as 

most climbers as they start out. Climb the classics, 

and work up to the big alpine routes and maybe even 

an expedition or two to the Himalayas. Even before 

I started climbing, my favorite National Geographic 

articles were not the ones with the naked native women 

in various countries around the world, they were the 

articles about the best climbers in the world attempting 

to climb (sometimes at great cost) the great peaks 

of the world. One story I will always remember is the 

expedition to annapurna led by Arlene Blum. 

The tenacity shown by this group of women was 

incredible, but in my warped, young hardman’s opinion, 

most of the Himalayan routes were just long hikes up 

steep snow, with no real difficulty (even though the 

expedition had a tragic loss of life). 

One day, while paging through one of my magazines, 

I ran across a picture of Lynn Hill near the top of 

Insomnia, a stout 5.11 at Suicide Rock in California. 

Here was a young woman, probably close to my 

age, Having fun on an extremely difficult (at that time) 

route! Surely she was the only woman climber in the 

world that could climb that hard, and that must have 

been near the limits of any woman’s ability. One of my 

passions is collecting and reading climbing literature, 

including guidebooks to most of the areas I have 

visited. 

While paging through my guide to Granite Mountain in 

Arizona, I ran across Lynn Hill’s name again. She had 

the first ascent of the hardest route in the book! A visit 

to the Shawangunks (accompanied by the obligatory 

guidebook purchase) showed me the true ability of this 

amazing woman, and it was there that I learned about 

Bonnie Prudden and Barbara Devine. They climbed as 

hard or harder than most of their male contemporaries, 

but I still considered them “freaks of nature” when it 

came to a woman’s place in the world climbing scene. 

When it came down to it, I had never really climbed 

with a woman. Sure, there was an assortment of “belay 

betties”, girls I wanted to impress with my climbing 

prowess (before I tried to impress them with my carnal 

desires). My impression of the female climber was that 

they were too weak and timid to try anything harder 

than top rope the routes that I led for them. 

As the years passed, I realized that many women were 

climbing at a standard equal with men. As I taught 

more climbers, I realized that a woman starting out is 

usually a better climber than a man, as she realizes 

that she can not crank up a route just using brute 

strength. Footwork and grace are more important than 

big biceps and pects. I put many of the techniques I 

learned from women to use, and noticed that most of 

the good climbers weren’t the strongest ones. The list 

of accomplishments by women climbers in the past 20 

years approaches that of the best male climbers, and in 

some cases, surpass the feats accomplished by men. 

Lessons I have learned 

To all men who plan on climbing with the fairer sex: A 

woman climber is not just there to hold the rope for 

you, as you impress her with your feats of daring and 

strength. Watch her, help her, but above all, learn from 

her... you will be a better climber if you apply half of the 

technique that comes naturally to her, even just starting 

out! 

To all women who are just starting to climb, or tag 

along holding the rope for your partner: Do not let 

yourself be intimidated by what seems to be beyond 

your ability. Do not try to imitate the style or follow 

the holds that your male counterpart used. Your 

balance and grace will allow you to use holds that are 

completely overlooked by most men in their effort to 

crank of another one-finger pull-up to impress you. 


54 twinpalms 

Before I had studied Zen for thirty years, 

I saw mountains as mountains, and waters as waters. 

When I arrived at a more intimate knowledge, 

I came to the point where I saw that mountains are 

not mountains, and waters are not waters. 

But now that I have got its very substance I am at rest. 

For it’s just that I see mountains once again as 

mountains, and waters once again as waters. 

Ching-yuan

Photo, set design, paper clothes – Krzysztof Wyzynski / www.wyzynski.com 

Styling and all clothes design - Anna Pochopien / www.annapochopien.com 

Hair – Anna Szeligowska 

Make up – Lola 

Models – Anna Maria at PureModels / www.puremodels.pl, 

Justyna at Mango / www.mangomodels.pl 

paper 

twinpalms 

57


59


61


63

food 

“If you pay basic 

western prices expect 

five-star cuisine, service 

and delivery along with 

inventive presentation” 

u 

Delicious Thai cuisine 

served at Oriental Spoon 

Grill & Bar 

Story Sam Wilkinson Photogarphy Oriental Spoon 

The Fine-Dining Isle 

Phuket’s culinary coming of age 

Once a byword for an island with relaxed, laid-back 

dining and a bit of frothy naughty nightlife thrown 

in as good measure, Phuket has now evolved into 

a full-blown worldwide culinary destination. With 

everything from Swiss Fondue to Swedish meatballs 

to the freshest Thai sweet n’ sour fish with jasmine 

rice to the greatest lobster thermador you’ve ever 

tasted in your life, the island has evolved, culinarywise, 

into a Mecca for those who truly appreciate the 

best when it comes to top fine dining. 

So why is Phuket Island’s culinary scene so vibrant? 

The answer is that restaurateurs are willing – and 

have pockets deep enough – to make sure that local 

produce, along with long-haul deliveries, is spanking 

fresh. You get what you pay for and Phuket has no 

shortage of excellent and innovative chefs who demand 

appropriate remuneration. 

Of course, along with the enticement of great food, 

fine diners can now expect the best in wines from all 

over the world, albeit at a price. Thailand has some of 

the world’s most stringent tax systems on wine label 

imports but many canny wine dealers on the island 

offer reams of printed advice on how, while not exactly 

to circumvent these laws (highly unlikely), to profit from 

the best worldwide labels at minimum cost. This has 

resulted in the welcome scenario of several West Coast 

Phuket restaurants being year-after-year winners of the 

prestigious Wine Spectator awards. 

If dining with a view is your thing, then Phuket is not 

bettered in the whole of Southeast Asia and with a little 

savvy and research dining, great dining view options 

often get better than the stereotypical West Coast 

sunset experience so often projected in glossies. A 

few examples are: Sunset cruises in Phang Nga Bay, 

featuring romantic junks and live music, speedboat 

tours visiting exotic off-island locations as far away 

as the Similan Islands or Phi Phi Island, downtown 

hilltop dining in Phuket City, and watching the moon 

rise from easterly based Phuket Island resorts. These 

all weigh in as major players in the island’s good-view 

dining options and there is no lack of them. Still, a 

westerly sunset view – such as at Patong’s Ninth Floor 

restaurant is almost the last word in capturing the best 

cuisine, wine, service and view. 

And of course there’s that world-famous Thai 

service. Service with a Smile is what Phuket, and 

indeed Thailand, is all about. So don’t be surprised 

if a relatively intimate conversation concerning your 

marital and financial status springs up as your more 

than charming hostess uncorks the wine or serves up 

piping-hot tom yam goong soup – it’s all part of the 

deal on this visitor-orientated island. The Thai Smile 

is a worldwide draw to the island and you’ll soon find 

yourself drawn in to this fascinating world quicker than 

you would ever suspect. 

In a word, dining on Phuket is exotic. Forget overpriced 

and poorly served offerings that are so often the staple 

of western dining. Here on Phuket Island if you pay 

basic western prices expect five-star cuisine, service 

and delivery along with inventive presentation. If you 

seek local cuisine at rock-bottom prices be assured 

that the Thai standard of hygiene is strongly controlled 

by the government. In addition, specialist cuisine – 

such as Vietnamese, French, British pub grub and even 

Russian fare is all on offer. This island is big, varied 

and geared to visitors from all over the world. Simply 

do your research from the many local food guides and 

enjoy. 


Story & Photogarphy Rovos Rail 

The Epitome of Classic Luxury 

Recapture the romance and atmosphere of a bygone era 

Since its establishment in 1989, Rovos Rail has 

earned an international reputation for its truly 

world class travel experiences. Step aboard the 

wood panelled coaches – classics remodelled and 

refurbished to mint condition – and enjoy fine cuisine 

in five-star luxury as some of the most varied scenery 

imaginable unfolds beyond the windows. 

Recapture the romance and atmosphere of a bygone 

era, when privileged travellers experienced the magic 

and mystery of Africa in a relaxed and elegant fashion. 

The trains – which may be hauled by steam, diesel or 

electric locomotives at various stages of the journey 

– carry a maximum of 72 passengers in 36 superbly 

appointed suites. Pride of place in the Rovos stable 

goes to the historic and newly rebuilt Capital Park 

Station and locomotive yard, which is the heart and 

new headquarters of this private railway company. 

World Class Comfort and Style 

The rebuilt sleeper coaches contain the most spacious 

train suites in the world, offering every modern 

convenience and comfort. The epitome of luxury, with 

handsome wood panelling and period Edwardian 

features, the air-conditioned suites accommodate two 

people offering the option of twin or spacious double 

beds. All are equipped with a writing surface and, for 

valuables, a personal safe. There is also a bar fridge 

filled with beverages of the passengers’ choice and 

room service is available 24 hours a day. 

In the en suite bathrooms original fittings combine with 

the modern technology of hot showers, hair dryers and 

shaver plugs. The Royal Suites, each of which take up 

half a carriage, are spacious and elegant, measuring 

+/-16 sq metres in size (+/-172 sq ft). Each has its own 

private lounge area and full bathroom with Victorian 

bath and separate shower. The Deluxe suites (+/-11 

sq metres/+/-118 sq feet) also accommodate two 

passengers in either twin or double beds and have a 

lounge area and en-suite bathroom with shower. 

A third level of accommodation, the Pullman suite is 

+/-7 square metres (+/-76 sq ft) in size and while it 

includes the identical bathroom to that of the deluxe 

suites, the bedroom is smaller with a one up one 

down bunk for twin requirements or a double bed for 

couples. During the day this can be converted into a 

comfortable couch. 

A Superb Collection of Restored Coaches 

Rovos Rail operates two classic 20-coach, 72 berth 

trains as well as a third 13-coach, 42-berth Edwardian 

train which is available year round for charter. Each 

one of these carriages, from kitchen cars to sleeper 

coaches and guards vans, has its own story. A few 

dating back to 1911 were constructed in Europe and 

shipped to South Africa in the first half of the last 

century. 

Some carriages have carried royalty, while others have 

ended up serving as restaurants or lying derelict and 

forgotten on sidings for decades. These coaches have 

been collected from the far corners of the country 

and are now cherished members of the Rovos fleet of 

75 carriages. The coaches have been painstakingly 

rebuilt and the use of fine wood panelling, traditional 

furnishings and period décor has ensured an 

atmosphere of elegance and grandeur. 

Exquisite pillared dining cars are a signature of the 

Rovos Rail trains. Each one has a proud history and 

has been meticulously restored from a derelict state. 

For example Dining Car No 195 ‘ Shangani ‘, which 

was built in 1924, was found parked in a siding in 

Alberton near Johannesburg before its acquisition 

by Rohan Vos in 1986. Three of the magnificent teak 

pillars had been removed and these were faithfully 

crafted, restoring the Victorian atmosphere. Each of the 

trains has two 42-seater dining cars to accommodate 

the maximum complement of 72 passengers in total 

comfort at one sitting. 

Each train has a non-smoking Observation Car at the 

rear of the train, while the coach next to it contains 

a small smoking lounge. A unique feature of the 

Observation Cars is the enlarged windows and open-air 

balconies. At the centre of the train we have, when 

numbers dictate, a non-smoking Lounge Car, which 

houses the Gift Shop. 

Simple Elegant & Entertaining 

An enthusiastic team of chefs is responsible for 

overseeing the very important task of ensuring guests 

every need is catered for, while considerable thought 

and meticulous planning goes into making up the 

menus. Unlike many of the great trains of the world, 

travellers are on board the trains for several days at a 

time, requiring a much wider selection of meals. There’s 

an accent on fresh local ingredients, and traditional 


travel 

“Rovos Rail has earned 

an international reputation 

for its truly world 

class travel experiences” 

“Unlike many of the 

great trains of the world, 

travellers are on board 

the trains for several 

days at a time, requiring 

a much wider selection 

of meals” 

t 

Elegant dining with 

Rovos Rail

dishes such as game are a specialty. Every morning 

there’s a full breakfast with dishes cooked to order. A 

selection of cold meats, croissants, pastries, fresh fruit, 

yoghurts, cereals and preserves make up a tempting 

breakfast buffet. 

For lunch and dinner there is a starter and a choice of 

fish, meat or vegetarian dishes, followed by a tempting 

dessert and are complemented by a selection of 

excellent South African wines. All meals are served in 

one sitting only in the charming Victorian atmosphere 

of the Dining Cars. Many of the passengers aboard the 

Pride of Africa enjoy the formality of fine china, crisp 

linen and silver, and dress accordingly. 

During the day dress is more casual, with cool, 

comfortable clothes and hats recommended for the 

excursions, especially in the game reserves where 

it can be very hot. The Observation Car seats 32 

passengers and is positioned at the rear of the train. 

At the centre of the train we have, when numbers 

dictate, a non-smoking Lounge Car, which seats 26 

passengers in comfort. 

In maintaining the spirit of travel of a bygone era, there 

are no radios or television sets onboard. 


travel 

“Many of the passengers 

aboard the Pride of 

Africa enjoy the formality 

of fine china, crisp linen 

and silver, and dress 

accordingly” 

ppp 

Evening departure 

pp 

Lounge 

p 

Pull night double bed 

t 

Montague Pass

travel 

Story & Photography Elyse Glickman Large Photogarphy Willy Setiadi, Morten Elm 

Global Shopping: Brazilian Gems 

A serious haven for power shopping 

While Rio de Janeiro is the home base for couture 

jewelry powerhouse H. Stern, it is also a serious 

haven for power shopping. At every price point, this 

city has everything you’d want and need, and from 

head to toe. 

Though the end of 2008 brought sobering news about 

the economy (involving the tightening of my money belt) 

and scary times for residents inhabiting the freelance 

world, I did get one very long-awaited and appreciated 

holiday greeting – an invitation to spend a glorious 

week in Rio de Janeiro. As the city is rich in natural 

splendor, dazzling Carnival culture, history and cocktail 

scene (with Cachçaca emerging as the fashionable 

spirit to build a cocktail on), I would at long last have 

the opportunity to write about these topics for my 

diverse cadre of newspapers and magazines in the 

States. 

In the months leading up to this opportunity, friends 

and colleagues who previously got their samba on 

in Rio just couldn’t say enough about carioca style, 

from fine jewelry at H. Stern’s headquarters to the 

Hippie Market’s sensational silver and leather finds to a 

Copacabana hideaway offering world-famous Havaiana 

flip flops in every color of the rainbow. Beyond that, 

everybody I discussed the trip with told me about 

what I must buy when down there – delicious dressy 

leather shoes in fashion forward shapes, a bikini and 

flirty skirts and dresses in splashy prints. New Zealand 

based designer Turet Knüfermann, also seemed excited 

about what treasures awaited me, especially as she 

clearly had the inside track on carioca (local) chic via 

her Brazilian boyfriend. 

“Which mall is closer to your hotel,” Turet asked as 

I informed her my figure may be too curvy for the 

samba aesthetic sported so beautifully by the twentysomething 

cariocas. “Iguatemi or Fashion Mall? If it 

is Iguatemi, go to the top floor and check out Gloria 

Coelho and Reinaldo Lourenco, cut for real women. 

They work for me, and will fit you, too. I know what 

you mean about those Brazilian bods, and how 

amazingly quickly you can adapt to local fashion. It 

gets hard to not be tempted to start wearing Lycra. If 

you are by Fashion Mall, don’t miss Clube Chocolate. 

You´ll be blown away. It was my biggest inspiration 

to open my own store. In the backstreets parallel to 

Ipanema Beach, you’ll find the funkiest stores with new 

designers and the more alternative chic.” 

At last, the long-awaited day arrived, and on a cold 

winter New York afternoon a young, colorful group of 

six well-traveled journalists assembled at JFK. As we 

awaited our TAM Brazilian Flight to Rio at in the Virgin 

Atlantic lounge, we exchanged introductions, and 

discussed who we were writing for and what we were 

writing about. However, after the formalities, the names 

of shops and designers other people had told us about 

inevitably began to surface. 

After a relaxed journey in TAM’s extremely comfy 

Business Class, we arrived in Rio just days shy of 

Carnival season, on a rainy morning. However, a little 

water wasn’t going to stop our fun. Though we all 

had our own agendas for our assignments, different 

tastes in fashion and different budgets, one thing 

clearly brought the diverse lot of us together…carioca 

chic. Inclement weather dashed our tentative plans 

to hit the beach, pool or the stylish streets of Leblon 

(now regarded as Rio’s poshest neighborhood, topping 

Ipanema and Copacabana on some seasoned traveler’s 

list). Additionally, our nicely appointed home for the 

week was the Hotel Intercontinental, 30 minutes from 

Rio’s party center if traffic cooperated. However, we 

quickly learned the neighborhood, São Conrado, 

was a very fashionable residential area and our hotel 

conveniently next door to the aptly-named Fashion 

Mall. 

It struck me on the three-minute walk from my hotel 

to the mall that this was one of the fashion treasure 

troves Turet recommended. Given group trips don’t 

always allow time for shopping, the girls and I were 

quite content to use our free afternoon to explore Rio’s 

bounty of bikinis, baubles, bags and shoes. Although 

the mall architecturally looked like Anymall USA on the 

surface, inside there was an explosively colorful new 

world of fashion labels covering all the bases to delve 

into. And boy, did we! 

As Turet promised, one shop was more fabulous 

than the next. My fellow L.A. journos who were the 

thinnest and most fashionable of us had no trouble 

finding stunning pieces from Farm, Tidsy, Loolia, Miss 

Zaidy and (especially) Maria Filo. Frankly, the tops and 

dresses were to die for…but not on me. But I was 

dazzled, nevertheless. The temptation was there to 

explore swimsuits at Track & Field, Lenny and Blue 

Man, but I deferred that in favor of something I knew 

would look good no matter how my weight fluctuated 

with gravity---shoes! I was dazzled by ManuFact’s 

high-end footwear. Not one to buy the first thing I saw, 


however, I found Arrezo had a very snappy selection of 

sandals and Leather House had great 40s style sandals 

in a tasteful green-gold hue that were soooo Louis 

Vuiton. And mine fifteen minutes later. 

After visiting Clube Chocolate – a cool amalgam of 

couture salon and bar with price tags to match--I 

checked back in with the girls, who were still finding 

treasure at Maria Filo. Seeing them model those flouncy 

and fab frocks made me more determined than ever to 

get a piece of Carioca cool. One floor up, I at last found 

it in the form of a splashy blue tunic at Folic. 

Our first night in town, we discovered that even when 

we weren’t shopping, Rio’s style was downright 

inspirational. It also helped to have professional guide 

Giônia Belmonte giving us the lowdown of where 

the beautiful people shopped, sunned, dined, drank, 

and worked out. After dinner at the stylishly healthy 

Ipanema location of Gula Gula (affordably chic right 

down to mix-and-match main courses and sides, and 

oh, that fresh-squeezed Raspberry-Orange juice!), with 

Giônia spending a lot of her mealtime recommending 

other restaurants and drawing maps of Leblon’s prime 

shopping in our notebooks, we set out to the Salgueiro 

Samba school rehearsal to watch the community 

prepare for their turn at the upcoming Carnival. Even in 

the heart of a favela, the style and spirit was infectious 

and one could not help but be awed by the massive, 

very alive all-ages crowd. 

A serene Sunday morning, alas, could not last forever, 

and around noon, Giônia whisked us from the laid-back 

environs of São Conrado to Porcão Rio, a barbeque 

and buffet emporium with a stunning layout of food 

that could make one forget you had a bikini to fit into, 

even if meat was not your thing. Next, up to the top 

of Sugar Loaf, where visitors are not only treated to 

stunning 360° views of Rio, but also a champagne 

bar (!) and a micro-branch of Amsterdam Sauer (H. 

Stern’s competitor) hawking jewels and gems. And as 

both Turet and Giônia informed me earlier on, a serious 

fashionista could not say she had been to Rio without a 

trip to the Hippie Fair. Though we nearly missed the fair 

because it was so hard to leave the vistas atop Sugar 

Loaf behind, even with just two hours left of business, 

the fair exceeded expectations…and my mission of 

bringing cool stuff back for friends was accomplished. 

The day was capped eating Amazon snacks at 

Palaphita Kitsch Gastonomia Amazonica, one of the 

most stylish outdoor beachside kiosks (down to Adonis 

waiters) I had ever experienced. 

The rest of the week was a blur of style, substance 

and – gasp – more shopping. By the end of the 

third day, everybody was in agreement that Rio lived 

up to its promise as one of the greatest shopping 

cities on Earth. From a personal standpoint, there 

was something so fabulous about taking a jeep 

tour to the iconic Sanctuary of Christ the Redeemer 

and surrounding countryside by way of the famous 

Copacobana Palace Hotel and experiencing the highs 

and lows of gem and jewelry shopping. At one extreme, 

there was H. Stern’s gem museum and emporium in 

Leblon and LEGEP (www.legep.com.br, located in 

the well-to-do mall packed suburb of Barra de Tijuca) 

on the other. Once gemmed out, Giônia spirited us 

into Rio Design mall, where I snagged a pair of shoes 

from Santa Lolla and the rest of the crew got fitted for 

sneakers at New Order. Though it was too rainy to wear 

the floor length dress I picked up at Claudia Simoes, 

I felt very carioca trying out the steps learned during 

our Salgueiro Samba School visit at Rio Scenarium (a 

former antique store turned restaurant and live music 

venue). Although we didn’t get to experience Carnival 

full on, we visited the Sambadrome and City of Samba 

to see more rehearsals, watch floats come together 

and try on the costumes for a couple of bucks. 

Even with the rush of being in a city awash with color 

and music, Rio does have a wonderfully chill, bohemian 

side in its Santa Teresa quarter. At the heart of this 

artist district is Hotel Santa Teresa, a delightful historic 

retreat loaded with fresh modern amenities and dashes 

of French and Middle Eastern flair as well as a great 

restaurant and spa. As you coil down the winding 

streets, you will find a half dozen charming artist 

ateliers, mellow local eateries, eye-popping street art 

and unique bed-and-breakfast properties (reservations 

at www.camaecafe.com). Once we wound our way to 

the bottom, Giônia took us to one of Rio’s best-kept 

secrets—the stunning Santa Teresa stairway, made 

from tiles sent to the artist from around the world. She 

also advised us to spend two days of our next trip to 

Rio chilling in Santa Teresa and the rest of the week in 

the center of the action in a place like the Copacabana 

Palace or the new Faisano (home to one of South 

America’s restaurants-of-the-moment and the oh-sofab 

London Bar). 

All parties ultimately come to an end. After a ilgrimage 

to Palácio das Havaianas (another gem from Giônia’s 

black book of shopping, at Rua Figueiredo de 

Magalhães 414, Copacabana - tel (21) 25481644), we 

toasted the end of a perfect and perfectly chic week 

sipping all flavors of caipirhinas at the Academia de 

Cachaça and a whirl on a Ferris Wheel overlooking the 

city. 

…the morning after, with an hour before our cab arrived 

to the airport, I slipped back to Fashion Mall to try on 

a bikini just to say I had done what people do when in 

Rio. I ended up with a slimming one-piece from Blue 

Man. There is that perfect gem just waiting to be had if 

you look hard enough. 


t 

Elegant dining with 

Rovos Rail

people 

“Bai was stationed in 

Tibet with the Army as 

an ‘artist soldier’, and 

served briefly as an army 

nurse.” 

“Every woman should 

shave her head once in 

her life, to experience 

what it feels like. If you’re 

talking about nudity, 

that’s the one time when 

you’ll really feel naked 

and vulnerable.” 

Photography David C Lee Producer Donald E Henson Wardrobe Stylist Lisa Bae Makeup & Hair Mariko Sakata 

Shot On Location At The House Of Jason James Wardrobe Assistants Martin Estrada, Lilian Kha 

The Enigmatic White Spirit 

Actress Bai Ling often takes darker, enigmatic roles – given her 

fascinating background, they suit the Chinese-born actress well 

Bai Ling is one of those Hollywood actresses that 

everyone can recognize, but you were left wondering, 

‘Where did I see her?’ Since her arrival in the US 

in the 1990s, Bai has appeared in the Brandon Lee 

starrer The Crow, she played opposite Richard 

Gere in Red Corner, she shaved her head for her 

role in Anna and the King, and she wound up nude 

in Playboy in 2005. In interviews, Bai has openly 

spoken of her bisexuality. 

It would be easy to think that Bai’s post-Hollywood 

career is the most colourful aspect about her, but even 

her family background makes for fascinating study. 

Born in Chengdu, inside Red China, Bai’s mother was 

a dancer, actress and literature teacher; her father 

a musician in the People’s Liberation Army, a group 

which she herself joined after passing the necessary 

exams. As a child she learned to play the violin. Her 

maternal grandfather, however, was a member of the 

Kuomingtang – the nationalists who were under Chiang 

Kai-shek – and faced persecution for his past during 

the Cultural Revolution. Her surname, Bai, translates to 

White in English; Ling is spirit. 

Bai was stationed in Tibet with the Army as an ‘artist 

soldier’, and served briefly as an army nurse. After 

being discharged from the Army, she returned to 

Chengdu to become an actress. 

Her time in Tibet remains influential. In an interview 

with The Bastardly, she described that period as ‘the 

most precious time of my life. … I was there breathing 

the air, dealing with the high altitude, the coldness, the 

cruelness of the army’s strict rules, and the freedom 

and beauty of the nature. And the music; when you 

sing the whole mountain echoes back to you. It’s 

beautiful.’ 

Even today Bai claims to have a close connection with 

nature, liking animals and wildlife. She watches little 

television, she says, but when she does, it’s the nature 

channels. She seldom surfs the ’net. 

Despite her parents’ involvement with various state 

groups, the Bais were hardly well off. 

Perhaps to many Chinese, Bai’s family background is 

nothing unusual. Those born inside the country in 1970 

as she was may have had a family member caught 

up in the Cultural Revolution. Yet it is a testament to 

the Bais that they persevered, and Bai Ling herself 

managed to push herself to international acclaim. 

Even when acting in China, an early role in the late 

1980s, in a film translated as Arc Light, saw Bai 

travelling to the Moscow Movie Festival. 

Her grandmother could have been an actress, she said, 

but the profession was not considered respectable 

at the time. ‘She is not an actress, but somehow [her 

spirit] influence[s] me, and it stayed in me when I play 

roles such as Tuptim in Anna and the King, so I can 

relate to [her generosity],’ she told Asian Connections. 

For her role in Anna and the King, Bai had to learn 

Thai dialogue, something that she found difficult, and 

shaved her head. 

To CNN, she said, ‘Every woman should shave her 

head once in her life, to experience what it feels like. 

If you’re talking about nudity, that’s the one time when 

you’ll really feel naked and vulnerable.’ 

Her 1997 role in Red Corner, a film that remains 

banned in Red China, served as her break-out in the 

US – and a break from her Chinese origins. 

The film was extremely critical of the Communist Party 

– it even showed execution scenes that were allegedly 

smuggled out by defectors. Bai would have known how 

controversial the film would be – so it was no surprise 

that she became a US citizen by 1999. 

However, she has not faced bans from entering Red 

China as her co-star, Richard Gere, has. She returns 

to visit family for New Year, and describes it positively, 

calling it young and energetic. 

While Bai has continued to be very active in film and 

television, her roles are increasingly less mainstream, 

often enigmatic, sometimes dark. She wants to be real 

in front of the camera. 

Part of it is due to the consummate actress in her, 

constantly extending herself. But the other part is due 

to the limited roles for Chinese. 

‘Film is a product for people to consume,’ she 

told CNN, ‘and most consumers in the States are 

Caucasian. … But it’s fun for me – roles in Wild Wild 

West; Taxi 3, the Luc Besson French film; Southland 

Tales – all these roles were originally written for white 

actors. 


C h i f f o n D r e s s : E L i j a h L i n h , S i l v e r P l a t e d S t o n e N e c k l a c e : To m m a s s i n i

‘I like to challenge myself because it’s fun doing 

screen tests where no one looks like me. I feel like I’ve 

achieved something beyond where I’m supposed to 

get.’ 

She believes that films that require an exotic flavour, 

mystery and intrigue were more likely to seek her out. 

Bai says that her approach to life is to do what she 

loves. She admits to being ‘wild’ and ‘a risk taker … 

life’s an adventure for me.’ Interestingly, Bai is teetotal 

usually, saying that she is on a natural high. 

She certainly proved that natural high when appearing 

in the VH1 TV show, But Can They Sing?, in some 

respects a celebrity version of Pop Idol. But some of 

her fellow contestants were hardly household names, 

or once were: Morgan Fairchild, Antonio Sabato Jr and 

Joe Pantoliano were perhaps the best known. 

The short-lived show did manage to raise the actress’s 

profile in the US once more, and she believes that her 

energetic performances and surprising costumes each 

week contributed to viewer interest. The flip side is that 

Bai has earned a reputation of being an unconventional 

dresser since the show, appearing regularly on “worst 

dressed” lists in Us and People, and various websites 

such as Stylelist. 

Despite this, her list of favourite designers is similar 

to that of any actresses’: Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto 

Cavalli and Gucci – brands she admits she had never 

heard of while growing up in Red China. 

The show may well have raised her profile enough for 

a guest role in one episode of Lost in 2007 – definitely 

a way to get noticed in the US – even if her Thai 

character’s pronunciation was well off. 

In Asian Connections: ‘The one thing is to satisfy 

yourself, … to follow your heart, to do things you really 

love. … As an actress, people look at the glamour, 

the fame, the money, but this has nothing to do with 

me. What I’m doing is the work. If I do good work, 

other things will come to me. It’s basically like others 

appreciating your work: they give you something, but 

that’s not your goal. Your goal is to do what you love to 

do and to do your best.’ 


people 

“T‘I like to challenge 

myself because it’s fun 

doing screen tests where 

no one looks like me. I 

feel like I’ve achieved 

something beyond where 

I’m supposed to get.” 

“The one thing is to 

satisfy yourself, … to 

follow your heart, to do 

things you really love.“

Since 1691, the Nolet family has been distilling 

the finest handcrafted spirits using technique 

perfected by Joanness Nolet. Ten generations 

later, this family tradition lives on, continuing to 

create the best ultra-premium vodka. 


SOME VODKAS HAVE CHARACTER, KETEL ONE HAS PERSONALITY.


81

M A N A G E M E N T 

Fractional Ownership (10%) 

Use 28 days per year 

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t +66 (0)76 316 500 ext. 320, +66 (0)85 221 4572 

f +66 (0)76 316 598 

e thibault@olympia-cruises.com 82 twinpalms 

w olympia-cruises.com 

Time to play! 

Owning an exclusive 76ft yacht is one of the most satisfying yet costly experiences one can have. 

Few owners of large yachts use them more than 2-4 weeks per year still having to pay for 52 

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cost for 100% of the pleasure. 

BANGKOK | PHUKET | SAMU I HO CHI MINH CITY | BALI (Opening Soon)

twinpalmslifestyle trends - Twinpalms Phuket Resort

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