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Sport climbing<br />
Backing off a single pitch: descending and removing gear<br />
You are unable to climb any higher!<br />
The lead climber is stuck at a bolt<br />
in the middle of a pitch.<br />
The easiest option is to be lowered on<br />
top-rope, leaving the quickdraws and<br />
asking someone to collect them later, or<br />
collecting them yourself after climbing a<br />
route next to it. If none of these options<br />
is possible, how can you descend and<br />
clean the route with limited risk?<br />
5<br />
© Lafouche<br />
Descend on a single bolt? Lower or rappel?<br />
Avoid the risk of breakage<br />
When it is difficult to estimate the strength<br />
of a bolt, it is necessary to use a technique<br />
that takes into account the risk of the anchor<br />
breaking.<br />
www.petzl.com<br />
70 70 kg kg<br />
≈ 115 ≈ 115 daN daN<br />
70 70 kg kg<br />
≈ 90 ≈ 90 daN daN<br />
70 70 kg kg<br />
Stress on the bolt<br />
The stress on the bolt is approximately 25 daN higher with lowering than with rappelling<br />
(for two people of 70 kg). This number is negligible compared to the strength required of<br />
a bolt (2500 daN). The stresses placed on a bolt when lowering or rappelling are therefore<br />
practically identical.<br />
Lowering is therefore recommended since it allows the climber to remain tied in<br />
throughout the lowering process.<br />
Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.
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