February - Hi-Time Wine Cellars

Late Additions
by Tobin Sharp
One More From France
seigneurs De bergerAC 2011 seC
$8.99 [#322945]
50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon,
10% Muscadelle
The Bergerac wine-growing region, a subregion
of South West France, is located around the town of
Bergerac in the Dordogne department and comprises 93
communes. Its boundaries correspond more or less with
those of the Arrondissement (district) of Bergerac and
it is located immediately east of the Bordeaux wine
region. The name “Bergerac” apparently comes from
the word “Bragayrac”, which is derived from the Gallic
word “braca”, meaning “manufacturer of breeches”
(the baggy trousers worn by the Gauls). You also may
have heard of Cyrano de Bergerac, the famous French
dramatist and duelist famed for possessing quite a
large proboscis.
In this case, with this semi-dry white blend, having
Cyrano’s nose would be a definite blessing. The nose
on this wine is lovely; beautifully rich spring fruits-- ripe
melons, peach syrup and a mixed stone fruit melange--
are joined by scents of lanolin, vanilla cream and a light
minerality. The palate is fat and lush but trimmed with
appropriate acidity. Delicate flavor nuances of more
peach and apricot meld with orange blossom and cream
soda, a nice juxtaposition from the nose to mouth. The
semi-dry wine has a leaning toward sweetness with the
spring fruit flavors but finishes quickly as the acidity clears
the palate, leaving a nice reverberation of (again) spring
fruit and dewy grass.
Moscato for the Masses!
siP MosCAto $10.95 [#260710]
So our North American wine buyer, Dan Williams,
just got this wine in-- right before the newsletter was
finished, but before we were going to load it online.
And, knowing that I'm a sucker for interesting white
wines (or just a sucker, in general) he had me taste it,
potentially knowing that if I found it unique, cool and
tasty, it would probably make its way into the February
edition. Well, it worked; so, here it is! Moscato? Yes,
Moscato! When you need a wine to go with dessert,
from tarts and confections to cheeses and fruit, this
is perfect-- as it is on its own. From jacuzzi pours to
aprés ski favorites, this will fit many a bill. Moscato is
also naturally high in antioxidants so potential health
benefits apply, as well. But on to the wine!
The nose is a Sauternes-ian, Gewürztraminer-ish
blend of ripe apricot, tree flowers, honey suckle and
a touch of clotted cream. The palate is luxurious,
rich and delightful; stone fruits, liquid florals, cling
peaches, ripe pear. Fermentation was arrested before
completion to retain the desired level of sweetness
and light carbonation. Finishes sweet and long; very
celebratory. This is easy-drinking, enjoyable wine and
at a great price-- try it and discover what's beyond the
Chardonnay channel in white wine!
Unique Boutique
The
Sensuous
Champagnes
of
J. Lassalle
by Jim "Bubblehead" Duane
Today there is a growing wave of enthusiasm for Grower Champagnes as more and more
people are discovering the excitement of Champagnes that are made with family pride and reflect a
vigneron’s connection to his land. Some thirty years ago when this wave was but a ripple, we were
proudly selling J. Lassalle Champagne to anybody that would listen. While our selection of domainebottled
bubbly has ballooned over the years, Lasalle remains one of our top favorites. In fact, the
Lassalle lineup has never been stronger as the press reviews below suggest. Headquartered in
Chigny-les-Roses on the northern slopes of the Montagne de Reims, this boutique operation is ably
run by Chatal Decelle-Lassalle and her winemaker daughter, Angeline Templier. There is great
attention to quality here, beginning with healthy grapes and low yields along with a resistance to
excessive pumping and filtration. Lassalle is one of the rare Champagne firms that allow all their
base wines to deliberately finish their malolactic fermentation (as in Burgundy), a practice which
adds depth an a sensuous expansiveness (ampleur) to all their offerings. Riddling is still done by
hand, and all cuvées are aged extensively once in bottle—even the non-vintage cuvées, which
are least five years old.
brut 1er Cru “CACHet D’or” $29.98 [#325567]
We know that this is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, but the ladies
keep the exact percentage of each a house secret. Wine ADVoCAte 91 Points: “Another
tasty entry-level offering, the NV Brut Premier Cru Cachet Or impresses for its energy
and focus. Lemon oil, hazelnuts and dried flowers are all woven together nicely. There is
brightness to the finish that is highly appealing. This is a terrific choice for drinking over
the next few years. Disgorgement date: July 16, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.”
brut rose 1er Cru $39.99 [#373813]
A great Valentine’s Day call, like drinking a tingly sunset. Wine sPeCtAtor 92 Points:
“A delicate, expressive version, offering fine texture and well-knit acidity, with a smoky, mineraltinged
base note and flavors of wild strawberry, black cherry, biscuit, gumdrop, grated ginger and
coconut. Drink now through 2020.”
2004 blAnC De blAnCs $49.98 [#371357]
This is definitely one of the very best Chardonnay Champagnes produced outside of the Cotes
de Blancs. Wine sPeCtAtor 93 Points: “This unravels a skein of ground clove and nutmeg
through flavors of mirabelle plum, almond financier, poached pear, date and candied lemon zest,
supported by finely tuned acidity and refined texture. Minerally finish. Drink now through 2024.”
Note that our price is the best by far that we have seen on the Internet.
2004 brut “sPeCiAl Club” $64.95 [#374986]
Lassalle’s best bubbly and a true “world beater”, but unfortunately it is also their most severely
allocated. Wine ADVoCAte 94 Points: “The 2004 Brut Premier Cru Special Club is vivid and
constantly changing in the glass. Light floral honey, juicy pears, white flowers, chamomile and
subtle tropical overtones all grace the palate. The 2004 does a great job of balancing a fairly overt
expression of fruit with bright aromas and vibrant minerality. All the elements are very much in sync
in this beautiful, deeply expressive Champagne. Disgorgement date: June 13, 2012. Anticipated
maturity: 2012-2019.”
6 hitimewine.net 800.331.3005