WHAT'S SO MAGIC ABOUT MAGIC PLATES? - Glenmore Lodge

WHAT’S SO MAGIC ABOUT
MAGIC PLATES?
Words & Photos George McEwan AMI Technical Officer
B
ringing up two seconds at the same time on a pitch, is an integral part of working and guiding on
multi pitch climbs, both summer and winter. I can mind the first time I brought up two seconds at
the same time. It was out in France, on my first ice climbing trip to the La Grave area, and the
two on the end of the rope spoke about as much English as I spoke French – un peu! They were friends of
a friend and this was our first time out climbing together on ice climb, in the Fournel Valley. After a couple
of pitches it was my turn to lead – the crux pitch which was a steep hanging curtain. Now up until this point
it had all been going swimmingly. So off I led, and after a great deal of panting and bashing got to the
stance, set up a belay, and then started to bring up my two partners. Not knowing any different (this was
long before I did my MIA) I brought them up using my belay plate. I’d done this a few times before and not
thought anything of it. That was about to change…
Just at the crux, I heard a stream of
French sounding sounds which
although I could not make them out
seemed to suggest that keeping the
rope very tight would be a good idea.
So I hauled in the rope nice and tight.
Just as I did that one of the ropes
went tight. Very tight. I thought
nothing of this till another voice
started to shout up, in broken
English but with a good grasp of
colloquialisms, ‘Tek in ze
####### rope!’ When I tried to do
that the other rope, which was still
weighted, prevented me from doing
so. There was a short moment of
shouting back and forward until the
second who had fallen off managed
to regain contact with the ice. Normal
service was resumed and we finished
the climb without further ado.
Later that evening, back at the
apartment we had rented off French
guide Godfrey Perroux we were
talking about this incident with him.
24 ... AMInews SEPTEMBER
He asked did we not use a
‘plaquette’? Cue uncomprehending
looks. A quick show and tell of how
to use the New Alp ‘Magic Plate’ saw
us convinced this was the way
forward. Next day saw us rush out to
buy one of these Magic Plates from
the local climbing shop and so
embarrassing escapades such as
the one described became a thing of
the past. This was back in 1991.
At the time and for a few years after
this, the use of Magic Plates was far
from common in the UK, especially
in winter. But that’s all changed, with
the use of such ‘auto lock’ devices
for bringing up two seconds in
commonplace use. Equally, since the
introduction of the first New Alp
Magic Plates the flat ‘plaquette’ or
‘guide plate’ concept has undergone
many evolutions and has moved on
from a plate which was basically
used for bringing up two seconds to
a multi-purpose device that can be
used both to belay a lead climber,
abseil and bring up two seconds in
an ‘auto lock’ mode ie. when the
rope is loaded in one direction the
device ‘locks’. I must admit my
original ‘Magic Plate’ has ‘Golden
Boy’ status being a favourite piece of
kit, although it is now long retired, I
do like it’s lightness and functionality.
Still there are lots of other devices
available now and I’d guess that
nowadays, few if any instructors or
guides would go out climbing in a
rope of three without carrying some
sort of ‘guide plate’ type device.
This article sets out to explore the
use, advantages, limitations and
operation of guide plates. Although
I’ll be using currently available items
of equipment to illustrate some of the
above, this is not an appraisal of
each individual piece of kit’s pros
and cons. It’s not a guide plate
review.
I’ll be making reference to multi-
pitch climbing, parallel ropes and
what have you, but only in the
context of explaining some aspect of
bringing up two seconds that
specifically relates to using guide
plates. If you want to read about all
aspects of multi-pitch climbing with
clients, then my article in the
September 2007 issue covers that
topic in greater detail.
In the beginning…
Before we look at what devices and
options we have for bringing up two
seconds, let’s take a stroll down
Memory Lane. What did the
instructors and guides of yore do
before the invention of guide plates?
First off, it’s as well to remind
ourselves that conceptually climbing
with two seconds has not changed –
the starting point to operating
effectively with two clients was
addressing the ‘What to do’ – finding
out where they are at in their current
climbing performance and

experience – then addressing the
‘How to do it’ – choice of climb
appropriate to the client’s aims and
abilities; what rope type and system
(single Vs half; parallel Vs Series);
belay method (Direct belay Vs Semidirect);
how to rig the stance and so
on. In addition, good and easy to
understand communication between
all members of the team was vital. In
effect the seconds understood what
was to happen, how it should
happen and when it would happen.
Then, as now, the key element was
making judgements about all the
above variables.
So what did they use? Well all the
methods used then could be and are
still used. You could bring up two
people on a body belay if that was
appropriate, or you could use your
belay plate, alternatively if the
situation allowed and it was
appropriate you would use two
Italian Hitches, one for each
client/student’s rope. Off course, all
these methods are still in use today,
all that guide plates give us is
another option.
A precursor of the guide plate was
the Alpine Clutch. Although it worked
it was not in common use, with most
instructors and guides preferring to
use the other three methods. The
following tables outline the pros and
cons of the methods listed above
when used to bring up two seconds
simultaneously:
Indirect Belay Using
Waist/Body Belay
(Image 1)
● Leader tied into belay using rope
● Waist belay using both ropes
Note: it is important to have the
braking side on the same side as
your attachment point to the anchor.
Pros: Avoids full impact force on
the belay in the event of a fall. (Use
of rope, and dynamic belay
increases dynamic element in
system).
Can be quick to arrange.
Cons: Difficult to bring two
clients/students up at same time if
moving at different speeds. If one
student weights the rope it is
impossible to take in/pay out the
other rope.
Instructor is in the system,
necessitating a potentially complicated
escape if required.
Semi Direct Using
Belay Plate (Image 2)
● Leader tied into belay using rope
● Belay plate clipped into rope loop
on harness
Pros: Can be easier to give a
tight rope in extremis, or hoist.
Avoids full impact force on the
belay in the event of a fall. (Use of
rope, and dynamic belay increases
dynamic element in system).
Cons: Difficult to bring two
clients/students up at same time if
moving at different speeds. If one
student weights the rope it is
impossible to take in/pay out the
other rope through the plate.
Instructor is in the system
necessitating a potentially complicated
escape if required.
Direct Belay Using
Italian Hitch (Image 3)
NOTE: Requires bomb proof anchors.
Pros: Less strain on belayer.
Leader not in the system.
Fast method of bringing up
second(s).
Cons: Difficult to provide tight
rope in extremis.
Requires bomb proof anchors.
I’m sure anyone reading this has
used several if not all those methods
outlined above. Then, as now, the
body belay and the belay plate
methods could be awkward to use if
both seconds climbed at variable
speeds. Likewise with the Italian
Hitch method. Good briefings to
ensure that the seconds climbed at a
suitable speed, thus allowing the
instructor/guide to take in the rope,
and not develop long loops of slack
were essential.
One of the issues with using the
two Italian Hitches was if one Italian
Hitch was loaded it could be pulled
flat against the other hitch causing
them both to jam (Image 4). A
method to avoid this happening used
a spacer krab as shown in Image 5.
As you can see none of the above
methods were exactly easy to use
when you had two seconds climbing
at the same time. Also all these
▲
IMAGE 3
SPONSORED BY
IMAGE 1 ▲
IMAGE 2 ▲
IMAGE 4 (LEFT) IMAGE 5 (RIGHT)
▲
AMInews SEPTEMBER ... 25

IMAGE 6 ▲
The New Alp Magic Plate
methods meant that the belayer had
to pay attention to holding onto the
braking ropes all the time, and they
could be tiring to use, especially if
their seconds had not heeded the
brief about climbing slowly and were
attempting to speed their way to the
stance.
New Alp Magic Plate
or Plaquette (Image 6)
When the New Alp ‘Magic Plate’
came along it was a very useful piece
of kit. It was a lightweight and simple
flat piece of alloy with two slots in it,
one being longer than the other (the
longer one was to be used if bringing
up one second as you could rotate
the ‘breaking krab’ around and
convert it into a lower if need be). It
allowed the belayer to easily clip
both ropes into the plate, and yard
the rope in as the seconds climbed
the pitch. Because it would lock
automatically in the event of a slip the
belayer could relax a bit and have a
bit of a rest, maybe eat some food as
they took the rope in.
However, it was pretty much a
device that was used primarily for
bringing up two seconds (the
26 ... AMInews SEPTEMBER
Figure 1A
Figure 1B
instructions illustrated how you could
use the plate to abseil and belay
conventionally with but I’m not sure
if anyone actually used them for that.
Certainly from my own perspective I
still carried a conventional belay
plate to do the abseiling/belaying
leader bit with). Another downside
was if one of the seconds had to get
a bit of slack that could be awkward
to do, certainly not as easy as using
a belay plate or an Italian Hitch.
It was possible if you used a krab
as the ‘break’ with an angular back
bar rather than a rounded back bar,
by ‘pumping’ the krab back and
forward (Image 7) this allowed some
slack to creep into the system.
Incidentally it’s a method you can still
use with the currently available guide
plates which I’ll talk about shortly –
although, as they are made of lighter
materials, you have to watch you
don’t damage your brand new
lightweight guide plate. It is worth
noting you had/have to use a square
section krab to do this, as you need
the krab to bite and release (Image
8). Using a square section krab also
had the advantage that the krab
would bite the rope better if/when it
was frozen.
Although the above method allows
some slack to be introduced it was
far more difficult to lower your
second(s) back down the pitch
should that be necessary. One option
was to attach a French Prusik to the
loaded rope(s) as shown in Fig 1A,
‘pump’ the ‘break’ krab back and
Figure 1C
forward to transfer the load onto the
French Prusik, then when the load
was on the prusik, put the dead side
of the loaded rope(s) into an Italian
Hitch (Fig1B), remove the Magic
Plate and lower (Fig1C). Not very
quick but it did give a very smooth
and controlled lower. Again this
method will still work with current
guide plates although as we will see
many new plates such as the
Reverso 3 and the XTC Guide make
this lowering process quicker to do
using the plate.
So although the Magic Plate
addressed the need to have a simple
device that allowed two seconds to
be belayed up a pitch with the
minimum of fuss and effort, it pretty
much, all things considered, only did
one job well. Subsequent
developments were to see the
introduction of a new generation of
devices which allowed the climber to
do more than one job with the device
– belay a lead climber, abseil, and of
course bring up two seconds. Before
all you retro freaks rush out to buy a
New Alp Magic Plate it would appear
that they are no longer available…
Today…
There are several devices currently
available which allow the belayer to
use the same device for belaying a
lead climber, abseiling and bringing
up two seconds. Figure 2 (above
right) shows some examples of the
common types currently in use in the
UK. The first three models don’t allow
▲
▲
Attach a French Prusik
to the loaded rope(s) as
shown in Figure 1A
Pump the ‘break’ krab
back and forward to
transfer the load onto
the French Prusik then,
when the load was on
the prusik, put the dead
side of the loaded
rope(s) into an Italian
Hitch Figure 1B
Remove the Magic Plate
and lower
Figure 1C
an easy lower from within the device,
whilst the last two are designed to
allow the belayer to lower their
seconds from the device.
Although there are more choices
available, I would still suggest the
original ways of bringing up two
seconds – body belay, belay plate
and Italian Hitches – still have a place
in our tool kit of techniques. Guide
plates just give us another option.
Methods
All of the above devices have their
own unique foibles regarding their
use. My top tip – and I know it goes
against the grain in outdoor learning
– but it might be an idea to read the
instructions before using a piece of
kit you are not familiar with and
maybe even give it a trial run in a
controlled situation before
experimenting with your new toy with
real people.
I can vouch that the experiential
method of learning how to use a new
belay device does not always work
effectively, nor does it inspire
confidence in your mates as you
puzzle how to work your new toy
whilst they dangle above the very
hard, and far away ground. One time
we were ice climbing out in Canada
as a rope of three. One of our team,
the newbie of our wee group, had
never used a guide plate. He was
given a few minutes of instruction by
one of the others in the team, and
then off he went and led the crux
pitch (which he did in grand style as
IMAGE 7
‘...using a krab as the ‘break’ with an
angular back bar, rather than a rounded
back bar, and ‘pumping’ the krab back and
forward allowed some slack to creep into
the system.’
▲
IMAGE 8
‘...use a square
section krab to
do this, as you
need the krab to
bite and release.’

▲ FIGURE 2
From left to right:– Kong Gi Gi (similar to the New Alp Magic Plate);
Petzl Reverso (this is the original model now superseded by the
Reverso 3); Cassin PIU’; Black Diamond ATC Guide; Petzl Reverso 3
(one of the lightest guide plates currently available)
it was a very steep pitch). In due
course, he brought the other two of
us up the pitch. I well mind it being
steep and a couple of times as I was
removing ice screws thinking ‘a tight
rope would be good!’ When I got to
the stance I was slightly shocked to
see the plate simply clipped to the
anchor and the rope clipped in such
▲ IMAGE 9
‘...another option is
to clip a sling to the
breaking krab...’
that a way that it was just running
through the krab with zero breaking
or friction abilities whatsoever. So...
moral of the story is read the
instructions, or at least practice using
your new toy before putting it to use
on an actual climb.
This next section will look at how
these devices can be used, and
illustrate some ways you can adapt
what the instructions say to make
some of the tasks you may wish to
carry out on a stance a bit easier, as
well as highlight some top tips and
handy hints. I’ll not be running
through how to use all of these
devices on an individual basis, but
will group them into broad
categories, so the old style Reverso
and the Gi Gi are devices that do not
allow you to easily lower the
seconds, whilst the brand new
Reverso 3 and the ATC Guide all
allow you to lower your seconds
using the plate in ‘guide mode’ ie.
when it is set up as a guide plate.
Devices that do not
easily allow lowers
These are the older generation of
guide plates. The Gi Gi from Kong is
a development of the original Magic
Plate but has a raised spine running
its length. This fulcrum makes it
easier, especially if using ropes of
slightly different diameters, in the
event of one rope being loaded to
easily take in the other rope. The
instructions for the Gi Gi show it
being used for abseiling etc but I
must admit I tended to only use mine
as a guide plate. It’s very similar to
the old school New Alp Magic Plate
in how you use the device and how
you set-up to lower.
The old style Reverso is one of the
first plates that allowed you to easily
use it as both a guide plate and as a
belay/abseil device. This type of
Reverso is being replaced by the
new Reverso 3 (see below).
To lower one of the seconds down
you can do the pump action as
shown in Image 7 – remember you
need to use a krab that has a square
or T-section back bar to make this
effective, and the rope has to be fully
weighted. Ideal if all you have to do is
allow a small amount of slack into the
system.
If you were to lower one, or both, of
your seconds down the pitch, you
may choose to use the method
shown in Fig 1 A to C. The advantage
of this method is that it allows a nice
safe and controlled lower. Another
option is to clip a sling to the
breaking krab as shown in Image 9,
clip this through the anchor as
shown, then either clip it to yourself
or stand in it. This releases the
breaking krab and allows you to
lower. HOWEVER, this method is
either on or off ie. get this wrong and
you can drop the second. It requires
careful practice to get right. My own
opinion is if I were going to lower
someone back down a pitch, I would
go for the method shown in Fig 1 A to
C as it allows far more control.
Devices that easily
allow lowers
The next category includes all
these devices that allow you to lower
using the plate in guide mode ie. self
locking. They all have a similar
design as you can see. All of these
devices can be used as belay/abseil
devices, and can be used to bring up
two seconds at the same time.
I’ll use the new Reverso 3 to
illustrate how you can lower your
seconds using the device. So you set
the plate up in guide mode. Again, if
you use a krab with a square or Tsection
back bar, you still have the
option of using that pump action to
release some slack into the system if
the rope(s) are weighted (I did notice
though that, as the Reverso 3 is very
light – 72g compared to the ATC
guide’s weight of 102g – then using
this method does tend to mark the
back of the device as the metal is
softer than the krab you are using).
However, the real beauty of these
devices is they allow you to lower,
easily and quickly, using the plate.
Image 10 shows how this is done, as
per the instructions from Petzl, when
one second has weighted the rope.
You jam a krab into the small hole at
the front of the device and pull up
and back (Image 10A). This releases
the locking krab and allows you to
FIGURE OF EIGHT
TO BACK UP
LOADED ROPE
UNLOADED
ROPE
SPONSORED BY
LOADED
ROPE
▲ IMAGE 10
‘...the real beauty of these is
they allow you to lower, easily
and quickly, using the plate...’
smoothly lower the second. One of
the things to bear in mind with this
method is that it can still be a bit
binary ie. off or on. Care should be
taken to ensure you have a good
hold of the lowering rope because
when that load comes onto the
breaking rope it will do so suddenly –
which is why the other second’s rope
has a back-up figure of eight tied into
it, although another option would be
to have the other second continue to
climb to get onto the belay before
you start lowering the stuck second.
In practice, what I have found is
that this can be awkward to do and,
as I said, it is a bit on or off so care
has to be taken. What I have found
works just as effectively is the
method shown in Image 11 – this
time it shows both seconds being
lowered. What I would suggest is to
run the braking rope through the
anchor as shown in Image 11. This
then allows a more controlled
braking force to be exerted on the
braking rope. Note: I’ve changed the
way the plate faces. By setting up the
plate like so, it’s easier to clip your
seconds into the belay without
▲ IMAGE 10A
‘You jam a krab into
the small hole at the
front of the device and
pull up and back.’
AMInews SEPTEMBER ... 27

ROPE RUN
THROUGH TOP
KRABS
STUCK
SECONDS
▲ IMAGE 11
Note: Reverso 3 is
attached other way
round to facilitate easier
clipping of seconds onto
belay.
having their ropes coming
underneath the device and mitigates
against any tangles.
I would not just read this though –
nothing beats having a play around
with your guide plate before heading
out onto the crag to try it out with
your mates or clients.
One issue of lowering your clients
is what do they do when they get
back down to the stance they’ve just
left – assuming of course they have
stripped the belay? On balance, it
might be better to assist them in
climbing past the section they are
struggling with. One advantage with
guide plates is it is very easy to set
OTHER SECOND
ON STANCE
& CLIPPED
IN
PULL
UP
ROPEMAN
OR PRUSIK
ATTACHED TO
LOAD ROPE
STUCK
SECOND
▲ IMAGE 12
‘...in this example the
other second has made
it to the stance and is
clipped in.’
up an unassisted hoist. Image 12
shows this in action using a
Ropeman, but you could just as
easily use a prusik – in this example
the other second has made it to the
stance and is clipped in. Using an
unassisted hoist allows you to give a
great deal of help to a struggling
second. This has the advantage that
if one or both of your seconds are
struggling then you can quickly and
easily give them a very tight rope. It’s
easy to set up and equally as easy to
remove so they need never know
that your superhuman strength came
not from superpowers but from slick
improvised rescue skills!
top tips and handy hints
Tip No 1
When using the device in guide
mode, always use a krab with a
square or T-section back bar as
the braking bar. This allows you
to pump the krab to lower a
loaded rope. In addition it
provides better bite when using
iced up or muddy/wet ropes.
Krabs with round back bars do
▲ IMAGE 13
▲
IMAGE 14
not bite so well and it is possible,
with icy ropes, that the device
does not lock as the broad
section of the krab’s back bar
fails to bite through the icy
covering on the rope, causing it
to not lock but run.
Tip No 2
If you set your guide plate up as
shown in Image13
you’ll find it easier
to clip your
seconds’ ropes
into the belay
without crossing
them or getting into
a muddle.
Tip No 3
You don’t always
have to clip the
seconds’ ropes
into the belay. If
All this talk of lowering or hoisting
seconds does beg the question –
could you have avoided this drama
in the first place? That question takes
us back full circle and the first
paragraph of ‘In the beginning’. The
starting point to operating effectively
with two clients is addressing the
‘What to do’ – finding out where they
are at in their current climbing
performance and experience – then
addressing the ‘How to do it’ –
choice of climb appropriate to the
clients aims and abilities; what rope
type and system (single Vs half;
parallel Vs Series); belay method
(Direct belay Vs Semi-direct); how to
rig the stance and so on.
In addition, good and easy to
understand communication between
all members of the team is vital. In
effect, the seconds understand what
is to happen, how it should happen
and when it will happen. So you see,
although we get new toys to play
with as the years roll on, some things
just don’t change – it’s still, and
always will be, about making the
right call at the right time.
you have two guide plates, you
can leave your seconds clipped
to the first guide plate as shown
in Image 14. Then, at the next
stance, you whip out the other
guide plate you are carrying and
bring up your team. This method
has the advantage that it is very
quick.
However it does presuppose
that you are planning on bringing
both seconds up at the same
time, or at least ensure you have
both on belay as, once they
unclip that braking krab from the
plate, then both are no longer
secured to the anchor.
Tip No 4
Strive to use high anchor points
as shown in Image 15. It makes
pulling in the ropes easier and
makes subsequent stacking of
your seconds easier.
SPONSORED BY
Acknowledgments
Thanks to Allen Fyffe, Ian Sherrington
and the guys on the MIA Training
Course at the Lodge in late July 2008.
Sources
www.kong.it
www.bdel.com
http://en.petzl.com
Summary
As we have seen the use of guide
plates is a comparatively modern
idea. They’ve come a long way from
the basic flat metal plate of the New
Alp Magic Plate, yet methods such
as using belay plates and body
belays, still have a place in any
instructor/guide’s technical repertoire.
Guide plates do make the whole
process of bringing up two seconds
more efficient, but they still rely on
the instructor/guide making sound
judgements about where, why and
how they use these devices. Given
that guide plates work best off direct
belays, we do have to ensure the
belay we are using is totally bomb
proof. If in doubt, best to use some
other method, and consider bringing
up your seconds one at a time.
Technical considerations aside, we
still have to make appropriate
judgements about the nature of the
climb we are undertaking with our
clients and whether it is appropriate
for them.
I’ve bundled a collection of top tips
and handy hints for using these
guide plates below.
▲ IMAGE 15
AMInews SEPTEMBER ... 29