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HUNTING<br />
By Simon Gibson<br />
The STINA BURN<br />
HISTORY<br />
Although the original wapiti were released at the head of<br />
George Sound in 1905, it was not until the 1960’s and<br />
70’s that the herd properly colonised the peninsula country<br />
between George and Bligh Sounds.<br />
Once they had, it didn’t take long for the word to get out<br />
that wapiti were booming on those steep, wet coastal ridges<br />
and hunters soon started to come in from the sea looking for<br />
big bulls.<br />
First was Bernie Chaney who crayfi shed the Fiordland<br />
coast for six years in The Alias. He discovered the area’s<br />
potential and secretly hunted it for nine years with various<br />
companions. Somewhat anti-NZDA, Chaney delighted in<br />
taking hunters down by boat to hunt mainly in the Catseye<br />
Bay area. The next we hear of The Alias it was being<br />
skippered by John Barber who sometimes had on board<br />
Ray Tinsley and Bill Harris whose hunting expeditions in that<br />
area are recorded in Tinsley’s two books; Call of the Wapiti<br />
and Call of the Moose. Harris recalls picking up a very big<br />
cast antler in the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn. This duo enjoyed good hunting<br />
in the unnamed river on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn Block north of the<br />
Catseye which they called Catsarse Creek. Piki Amo Amo<br />
was another well known wapiti hunter who made several<br />
trips into the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn country.<br />
The name of the <strong>Stina</strong> is attributed to Alistair MacDonald<br />
after his fi shing boat <strong>Stina</strong>. McDonald explored this area in<br />
1957 and McDonald Creek is also named after him.<br />
Other names of interest on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn Block are<br />
Woodcutters Peak (presumably because they cut wood<br />
there) and Bare Cone (a descriptive name), named by<br />
Captain J Stokes during the cruise of HMS Acheron in 1878<br />
on the fi rst real attempt to survey the Fiordland coast.<br />
Here is the immortal Ray Tinsley on a hunt for ‘Bigfoot’ in<br />
the <strong>Stina</strong>.<br />
“The sound of a pure wapiti bugling is never forgotten. The<br />
hybrids that abound in Fiordland cause some people to say<br />
14 ROD & RIFLE<br />
that there are no pure animals left.<br />
There’s one.<br />
From a solid, deep sleep, we both sat upright and wide<br />
awake to the incredible echoing sound of what seemed to be<br />
a half million cubic metres of compressed air tearing through<br />
the pipes of a Wurlitzer organ at an octave over high C.<br />
We said nothing, we did nothing, we just froze. The<br />
whole trip would be worth it for hearing just that one<br />
sound.<br />
We were away right on fi rst light after that 2.30am alarm<br />
and reached the valley fl oor in half an hour.<br />
Again he let rip. His bugle was so high that instead of<br />
dropping into a booming roar it went higher and higher<br />
until we could no longer hear it.<br />
We honed in on him, judging the distance to be about<br />
200 metres.<br />
Nearly every stalk in Fiordland, where animals see no<br />
or perhaps only one human in their lifetime, I fi nd it pays<br />
to walk straight to them and not hang round trying to be<br />
cunning.<br />
The last bugle was terrifying. The hairs on our necks<br />
bristled, we both went weak at the knees and I was<br />
positive I would give the show away because of the great<br />
hammering of my heart.<br />
We were within twenty metres from him when it<br />
happened. Cunning is what makes the old bulls live<br />
their full lifespan and this bastard was cunning. He had<br />
positioned himself so that he could smell the breeze from<br />
two quarters. The breeze in our faces suddenly changed<br />
and as we started an accelerated run into him, he winded<br />
us and with an almighty bellow and thunder of hooves<br />
was gone for another year.<br />
We pulled up, bewildered, exhausted and on the point<br />
of despair. His hoof marks were gigantic, deep into the<br />
hard packed ground showing his incredible weight.”
The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn-Block 4<br />
The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn block is located at the<br />
head of Bligh Sound on the Fiordland<br />
coast and offers great hunting with<br />
a mix of red deer and wapiti being<br />
present. This is a good bush hunting<br />
block with a small area of open tops<br />
above the seaward faces and is an easy<br />
block to get around on. The <strong>Stina</strong> block<br />
is part of the Glaisnock Wilderness Area<br />
so helicopter access is to the shoreline<br />
only. Access to the <strong>Stina</strong> is normally<br />
by helicopter from Te Anau or Milford<br />
Sound. If you are prepared to drive to<br />
Milford Sound the fl ight can be a lot<br />
cheaper and by fl ying down the coast<br />
the pilot can usually get you out if the<br />
weather is bad. For those with a good<br />
stomach a fi shing boat from Milford<br />
Sound is an option and the amount of<br />
gear you can take is unlimited.<br />
There is a very comfortable base<br />
campsite located at the mouth of the<br />
<strong>Stina</strong> Burn on the true left. The ridge<br />
immediately behind the main camp at<br />
the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn mouth offers good travel<br />
to the tops overlooking the coast and<br />
there is a good head basin at the top of<br />
it. During heavy rain the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn rises<br />
very quickly and becomes uncrossable<br />
at its mouth even after only a couple<br />
of hours rain however like all Fiordland<br />
rivers it also drops quickly. There is a<br />
gorge at the start of the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn<br />
which blocks access however there<br />
is a route past it on the true right that<br />
starts about fi fty metres upstream and<br />
follows deer trails at a height of about<br />
50 metres above the gorge. After about<br />
two hours travel a small river fl at will be<br />
seen below, signalling the end of the<br />
gorge so you can now drop into the<br />
river bed. Once back in the main river it<br />
is easy travel until the forks are reached.<br />
Leave the river here and head up the<br />
centre spur towards point 681 and then<br />
sidle into the <strong>Stina</strong> head basin. There is<br />
a good dry campsite in the head basin<br />
on the true right in the beech trees<br />
which is a good place to be based to<br />
access the rest of the block. However,<br />
by camping here you will ruin the<br />
hunting in the head basin so hunt it fi rst<br />
before setting up camp. Some hunters<br />
do this by climbing up onto the ridge<br />
north of Bare Cone and travelling along<br />
it to look into the <strong>Stina</strong> head basin. Kiwi<br />
Above; A good 12 point rack taken by Brian<br />
Head on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn in the 2008 season.<br />
It measures 41” in length and scores close to<br />
300DS. Heads like this were very rare ten years<br />
ago but are now becoming more common.<br />
The head was taken at a range of 150 metres<br />
on the open tops. Photo Jon Wood<br />
Left; The author on the Tinsley Highway looking<br />
towards the mouth of the Wild Natives block in<br />
Bligh Sound on a beautiful Fiordland afternoon.<br />
ROD & RIFLE 15
HUNTING<br />
The collection of old antlers there can’t fail to get a hunter’s imagination running<br />
are present in the area and on a still<br />
night you will hear them calling. From<br />
here it is easy to access the Tinsley<br />
Highway which is a long easy going<br />
ridge that travels from the head basin<br />
along to Bare Cone and then to the end<br />
of the block at Wood Cutters Peak. This<br />
was a favourite route of Ray Tinsley’s<br />
back in the late 70’s and early 80’s and<br />
is described in his classic book ‘Call of<br />
the Wapiti’. A kilometre along from Bare<br />
Cone there is a slip that stretches from<br />
near the ridge top down to the sea in<br />
Bligh Sound and this is known as the<br />
Stair Way to Heaven in some of the old<br />
hunting books. The coastal faces of the<br />
<strong>Stina</strong> block offer excellent bush hunting<br />
for roaring stags and bugling bulls.<br />
Long ridges and faces go down to the<br />
sea and they have numerous wallows<br />
on them. There are some huge grassy<br />
slips on these faces however although<br />
I have seen them from a helicopter I<br />
have never been able to fi nd them while<br />
actually hunting the faces.<br />
Ray Tinsley and his hunting<br />
companion Bill Harris unoffi cially named<br />
the major catchment at the back of the<br />
block draining into George Sound the<br />
Catsarse Creek when they hunted this<br />
area extensively in the late seventies.<br />
There is an old meat hunters camp<br />
called Bernie’s Camp situated about<br />
700 metres down the seaward ridge<br />
that leads from the top of the <strong>Stina</strong> head<br />
basin down to the mouth of Catsarse<br />
Creek. The collection of old antlers there<br />
can’t fail to get a hunters imagination<br />
running. This is a great spot to base<br />
your self as it also gives access into the<br />
head of the Catsarse Creek.<br />
There is enough room for a helicopter<br />
to drop a party off at the mouth of the<br />
Catsarse however I learnt the hard<br />
way that there is no area suitable for a<br />
campsite there. The leading ridges on<br />
both sides of the Catsarse offer very<br />
good hunting. The Catseye/Catsarse<br />
ridge has a very rough area just before<br />
it hits the Tinsley Highway however this<br />
can be by passed by dropping into the<br />
head basin of Catsarse Creek. The <strong>Stina</strong><br />
Burn block offers great bush hunting<br />
and like all of the wapiti blocks it is now<br />
starting to show its potential again so is<br />
well worth a look.<br />
And don’t forget to pack your fi shing<br />
rod, as the cod fi shing near the mouth<br />
of the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn is excellent.<br />
16 ROD & RIFLE<br />
A Hunt in the <strong>Stina</strong><br />
by Simon Gibson<br />
I had been on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn block several years earlier chasing<br />
bugling bulls for two weeks in fi ne weather so when Dave rang to<br />
say our group had been successful in the wapiti ballot for the <strong>Stina</strong><br />
I was rapt as it is a great block.<br />
On our fi rst visit we had started the<br />
trip at the base camp by the mouth<br />
of the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn like most parties do<br />
but this year was to be different. At the<br />
last minute we changed our plans after<br />
meeting a couple of seasoned wapiti<br />
hunters in the local pub who told us of a<br />
campsite at the mouth of the Catsarse<br />
on the other side of the block. Our<br />
pilot confi rmed he had dropped some<br />
Aussies there once so we were all set. I<br />
was looking forward to visiting this little<br />
inlet, as it was the spot where many<br />
of Ray Tinsley’s trips started when the<br />
fi shing boat ‘The Alias’ dropped him<br />
there. With the usual mountain of gear<br />
stowed we set off from Milford Sound<br />
in Geoff Shanks’ squirrel<br />
and headed over the<br />
Fiordland tops towards the<br />
<strong>Stina</strong> Burn. As we came<br />
into land at the mouth of<br />
Catsarse Creek my alarm<br />
bells were ringing. It was a<br />
very tight little creek mouth<br />
with very steep hills and<br />
rocky bluffs surrounding it<br />
and my doubts about its<br />
suitability as a base camp<br />
were soon confi rmed.<br />
Within minutes the noise<br />
of the chopper was fading<br />
into the distance as we set<br />
about fi nding the campsite<br />
and setting up our base<br />
camp. As we all rounded<br />
the fi rst corner of the creek<br />
loaded down with gear<br />
a large waterfall greeted<br />
us and it was then that<br />
we realised there was no<br />
campsite and worse still<br />
nowhere to camp at all as<br />
the only fl at areas were<br />
absolute bogs. We were to<br />
fi nd the so called campsite<br />
later but it was 200 metres<br />
up the side of a very steep<br />
slope and a terrible spot to be based.<br />
For me it was a valuable lesson learned,<br />
you should only heed advice from those<br />
who have actually been to an area.<br />
Making the most of the situation camp<br />
was set up on the best of the bogs<br />
and gear sorted for the next few weeks<br />
hunting. Dave and I were heading up<br />
the Catsarse/Catseye ridge while Mike<br />
and Barraclough were heading for<br />
Bernie’s Camp on the seaward leading<br />
ridge that ends over looking the <strong>Stina</strong><br />
head basin. By nightfall we had made<br />
the ridge top and pitched camp, well<br />
satisfi ed with the afternoon’s efforts.<br />
Away early the next morning it wasn’t<br />
long before I had several wapiti bulls
ugling in response to my roars. One<br />
bull in the Catseye block was screaming<br />
its defi ance non stop with a lovely high<br />
pitched bugle. As we came to the start<br />
of a scrubby saddle a bull suddenly<br />
replied to my roars from only 50 metres<br />
away. Dave stayed back while Sako<br />
and I crept in as the bull kept bugling.<br />
Wapiti hunting doesn’t get any more<br />
exciting than this and as I got closer<br />
the tension was unbearable. It was so<br />
thick that I only had 5 metres visibility<br />
Above; A typical Fiordland camp in heavy<br />
bush. Most wapiti blocks cover a large area<br />
so it is essential to move camp around the<br />
block so time is not wasted travelling back to<br />
base camp all the time. By travelling to good<br />
areas when the weather is bad and camping<br />
you will be in prime hunting country when the<br />
weather clears and not waste the good days<br />
getting there. Left; 3/ The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn block has<br />
a relatively small area of open tops however<br />
these give good access to the ridges on the<br />
coastal faces.<br />
and then it happened. A huge creamy<br />
bull with massive lower tines suddenly<br />
appeared in front on me but as quick<br />
as Sako can be, the bull crashed away<br />
before we could get a shot off. Cursing<br />
my luck I headed back towards Dave on<br />
the top of the saddle who had a tale to<br />
tell himself.<br />
The bull had run along the top of the<br />
ridge and they had come face to face<br />
with the bull only two metres from Dave<br />
before it wheeled around and crashed<br />
downhill. Dave had his camera around<br />
his neck but had been taken totally by<br />
surprise and never got a picture. I had<br />
been unable to see the bull’s tops but<br />
Dave said that while he had tremendous<br />
lower tines his tops were weak and he<br />
was probably a young animal so it was<br />
good I never got a shot off. By now<br />
rain was starting to fall and the going<br />
was very slow through the thick scrub.<br />
By late afternoon and in heavy rain we<br />
came to a beautiful tussock area full of<br />
wallows and game trails but with the<br />
weather being so wet there was not<br />
a sight or sound of any animals. We<br />
were both soaked thru and very tired<br />
so we pitched camp and turned in<br />
early. The next morning was no better<br />
as we packed up camp in heavy rain<br />
and headed for the Tinsley Highway. By<br />
ROD & RIFLE 17
HUNTING<br />
late afternoon we were fi nally above the<br />
<strong>Stina</strong> Burn head basin and dropping<br />
down to the campsite in rain that was<br />
getting heavier by the minute. As we<br />
were getting the fl y up the rain became<br />
so heavy it was like someone had a fi re<br />
hose on us from above. No sooner had<br />
we got the camp pitched than the rain<br />
eased off and fi nally stopped. Twenty<br />
minutes later the sun peeped through<br />
and a red stag roared on the rim of<br />
the head basin. With only ten minutes<br />
of light left I wandered down to the<br />
tussock below and immediately saw<br />
a magnifi cent red stag roaring on the<br />
ridge top. Glassing him I could make<br />
out at least 12 points; he remains the<br />
biggest red stag I have ever seen. I<br />
raced back to camp and grabbed Dave<br />
but there was simply no time left to go<br />
after him. We planned for an early start<br />
the next morning however a southerly<br />
front put paid to that and we never saw<br />
or heard that stag again as we were<br />
camp bound for several days as rain<br />
As we came to the start of a<br />
scrubby saddle a bull suddenly<br />
replied to my roars from only<br />
50 metres away- Dave stayed<br />
back while Sako and I crept in<br />
as the bull keep bugling<br />
and hail lashed the area. Great gusts of<br />
wind came up the valley, sounding like<br />
a freight train and trying to tear our tent<br />
and fl y from their anchor points. The<br />
weather report from the mountain radio<br />
schedule that night indicated a few fi ne<br />
days so we decided to head onto the<br />
tops the next day. The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn has<br />
a relatively small area of tops but these<br />
give good access to the spurs running<br />
down the coastal faces.<br />
It was very frustrating listening to<br />
hunting parties on some of the most<br />
sort after blocks calling up to be taken<br />
out because of the wet weather;<br />
ironically they were being picked up as<br />
the weather cleared.<br />
We spent the day hunting and roaring<br />
on the spurs leading down to the sea,<br />
but with mixed results. Dave managed<br />
to photograph a young wapiti bull<br />
holding several cows and several other<br />
animals were seen but no trophies. The<br />
next morning we headed downriver and<br />
then up a steep ridge to camp near<br />
the basin above the <strong>Stina</strong> mouth for a<br />
18 ROD & RIFLE<br />
Dave Cochrane took this heavy antlered eleven point hybrid after an exciting hunt with the author.<br />
few days. Despite many hours glassing<br />
this great area we saw only one wapiti<br />
cow in the distance although there<br />
was plenty of fresh sign about. During<br />
our stay there we heard several wapiti<br />
bulls bugling well in the valley below<br />
and a few others of mixed parentage<br />
bellowing down by the <strong>Stina</strong> River so<br />
this is where we headed. Dropping<br />
our packs we proceeded down river<br />
towards a stag that was roaring well<br />
in response to my roars. Dave was in<br />
the lead and he suddenly threw his rifl e<br />
up and fi red, downing a very heavy 11<br />
pointer on the rivers edge. The stag<br />
had been coming in on my roars and<br />
was a lot closer than we expected.<br />
Although the stag had been roaring<br />
well it had a slightly creamy coat and<br />
we surmised that it was a hybrid. After<br />
the usual photos we removed the rack<br />
and headed back to camp in the head<br />
basin. With rain falling again the next<br />
day we packed and headed for Bernie’s<br />
Camp where Mike and Barraclough had<br />
been for the last week. After a miserable<br />
wet trip I was really looking forward to<br />
catching up with the boys but the camp<br />
was empty when we fi nally arrived late<br />
evening.<br />
This camp has quite a collection of<br />
old antlers lying about and has been
used by wapiti hunters for decades.<br />
During Mike and Barraclough’s stay<br />
they had some tremendous stalking<br />
action as they chased bugling and<br />
roaring stags on the coastal faces with<br />
Barraclough taking some outstanding<br />
photos and video footage. Over the<br />
last few days one of my big toes had<br />
become badly infected and during the<br />
night waves of pain shot up my leg and<br />
I thought my trip was over. In the early<br />
hours of the morning as rain lashed our<br />
Above; The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn tops looking towards the head of Bligh Sound.<br />
Left; The late Charlie Tattersall holds Steve Collings big 13 from the <strong>Stina</strong><br />
(1991); 42.5 inches long by 39 inches wide.<br />
tent I’d had enough<br />
so asked Dave if he<br />
would use his knife to<br />
open my toe to relieve<br />
the pressure. The relief<br />
was tremendous and<br />
after applying a liberal<br />
coating of antiseptic<br />
cream I had no more<br />
problems. After packing<br />
camp for the last time<br />
in the rain we headed<br />
down the ridge towards<br />
base camp at the<br />
mouth of the Catsarse.<br />
Arriving at Catsarse<br />
Creek we found a<br />
raging torrent and as<br />
we tried to work our<br />
way along the creek<br />
edge to fi nd a better<br />
crossing we could<br />
see the level rising<br />
rapidly making it far too dangerous to<br />
attempt a crossing. With nowhere to<br />
camp we had to climb several hundred<br />
metres back up the ridge to fi nd a fl at<br />
spot and it was here that we found the<br />
remains of the Australians campsite<br />
from several years ago. It had been<br />
left in a disgusting state with rubbish<br />
everywhere. As we cleaned up the mess<br />
some pretty angry words were directed<br />
at them and I certainly hope they never<br />
return to Fiordland. Huddled under the<br />
fl y soaking wet and with base camp just<br />
across the creek we both felt quite sorry<br />
for ourselves. By late evening the rain<br />
had eased so we dropped down to the<br />
creek to check its level to fi nd it must<br />
have dropped at least a metre. Leaving<br />
a river level marker peg in the sand we<br />
raced back uphill to break camp and<br />
returned to attempt a crossing just on<br />
dusk. On our arrival back at the creek<br />
an hour later it had dropped more so I<br />
called out to see if Mike and Barraclough<br />
were at base camp and sure enough<br />
they appeared on the river bank. Within<br />
minutes we were changing into dry<br />
cloths and downing cups of hot coffee.<br />
Packing camp up next morning in<br />
the sun was pleasant but sadly meant<br />
the end of another great Fiordland<br />
adventure. Our chopper arrived on time<br />
and we were treated to a fabulous trip<br />
out as our pilot took us on a scenic trip<br />
home looking for deer on some of the<br />
high ridges.<br />
This was the wettest trip I have done<br />
to Fiordland with only three fi ne days<br />
out of fourteen however we still saw<br />
some good animals. It’s the beauty and<br />
magic of Fiordland and her wapiti bulls<br />
that draws me back year after year no<br />
matter what the weather.<br />
Acknowledgements; The Banwell<br />
Archives; John Hall-Jones;<br />
ROD & RIFLE 19