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Stina - Rod & Rifle

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HUNTING<br />

By Simon Gibson<br />

The STINA BURN<br />

HISTORY<br />

Although the original wapiti were released at the head of<br />

George Sound in 1905, it was not until the 1960’s and<br />

70’s that the herd properly colonised the peninsula country<br />

between George and Bligh Sounds.<br />

Once they had, it didn’t take long for the word to get out<br />

that wapiti were booming on those steep, wet coastal ridges<br />

and hunters soon started to come in from the sea looking for<br />

big bulls.<br />

First was Bernie Chaney who crayfi shed the Fiordland<br />

coast for six years in The Alias. He discovered the area’s<br />

potential and secretly hunted it for nine years with various<br />

companions. Somewhat anti-NZDA, Chaney delighted in<br />

taking hunters down by boat to hunt mainly in the Catseye<br />

Bay area. The next we hear of The Alias it was being<br />

skippered by John Barber who sometimes had on board<br />

Ray Tinsley and Bill Harris whose hunting expeditions in that<br />

area are recorded in Tinsley’s two books; Call of the Wapiti<br />

and Call of the Moose. Harris recalls picking up a very big<br />

cast antler in the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn. This duo enjoyed good hunting<br />

in the unnamed river on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn Block north of the<br />

Catseye which they called Catsarse Creek. Piki Amo Amo<br />

was another well known wapiti hunter who made several<br />

trips into the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn country.<br />

The name of the <strong>Stina</strong> is attributed to Alistair MacDonald<br />

after his fi shing boat <strong>Stina</strong>. McDonald explored this area in<br />

1957 and McDonald Creek is also named after him.<br />

Other names of interest on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn Block are<br />

Woodcutters Peak (presumably because they cut wood<br />

there) and Bare Cone (a descriptive name), named by<br />

Captain J Stokes during the cruise of HMS Acheron in 1878<br />

on the fi rst real attempt to survey the Fiordland coast.<br />

Here is the immortal Ray Tinsley on a hunt for ‘Bigfoot’ in<br />

the <strong>Stina</strong>.<br />

“The sound of a pure wapiti bugling is never forgotten. The<br />

hybrids that abound in Fiordland cause some people to say<br />

14 ROD & RIFLE<br />

that there are no pure animals left.<br />

There’s one.<br />

From a solid, deep sleep, we both sat upright and wide<br />

awake to the incredible echoing sound of what seemed to be<br />

a half million cubic metres of compressed air tearing through<br />

the pipes of a Wurlitzer organ at an octave over high C.<br />

We said nothing, we did nothing, we just froze. The<br />

whole trip would be worth it for hearing just that one<br />

sound.<br />

We were away right on fi rst light after that 2.30am alarm<br />

and reached the valley fl oor in half an hour.<br />

Again he let rip. His bugle was so high that instead of<br />

dropping into a booming roar it went higher and higher<br />

until we could no longer hear it.<br />

We honed in on him, judging the distance to be about<br />

200 metres.<br />

Nearly every stalk in Fiordland, where animals see no<br />

or perhaps only one human in their lifetime, I fi nd it pays<br />

to walk straight to them and not hang round trying to be<br />

cunning.<br />

The last bugle was terrifying. The hairs on our necks<br />

bristled, we both went weak at the knees and I was<br />

positive I would give the show away because of the great<br />

hammering of my heart.<br />

We were within twenty metres from him when it<br />

happened. Cunning is what makes the old bulls live<br />

their full lifespan and this bastard was cunning. He had<br />

positioned himself so that he could smell the breeze from<br />

two quarters. The breeze in our faces suddenly changed<br />

and as we started an accelerated run into him, he winded<br />

us and with an almighty bellow and thunder of hooves<br />

was gone for another year.<br />

We pulled up, bewildered, exhausted and on the point<br />

of despair. His hoof marks were gigantic, deep into the<br />

hard packed ground showing his incredible weight.”


The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn-Block 4<br />

The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn block is located at the<br />

head of Bligh Sound on the Fiordland<br />

coast and offers great hunting with<br />

a mix of red deer and wapiti being<br />

present. This is a good bush hunting<br />

block with a small area of open tops<br />

above the seaward faces and is an easy<br />

block to get around on. The <strong>Stina</strong> block<br />

is part of the Glaisnock Wilderness Area<br />

so helicopter access is to the shoreline<br />

only. Access to the <strong>Stina</strong> is normally<br />

by helicopter from Te Anau or Milford<br />

Sound. If you are prepared to drive to<br />

Milford Sound the fl ight can be a lot<br />

cheaper and by fl ying down the coast<br />

the pilot can usually get you out if the<br />

weather is bad. For those with a good<br />

stomach a fi shing boat from Milford<br />

Sound is an option and the amount of<br />

gear you can take is unlimited.<br />

There is a very comfortable base<br />

campsite located at the mouth of the<br />

<strong>Stina</strong> Burn on the true left. The ridge<br />

immediately behind the main camp at<br />

the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn mouth offers good travel<br />

to the tops overlooking the coast and<br />

there is a good head basin at the top of<br />

it. During heavy rain the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn rises<br />

very quickly and becomes uncrossable<br />

at its mouth even after only a couple<br />

of hours rain however like all Fiordland<br />

rivers it also drops quickly. There is a<br />

gorge at the start of the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn<br />

which blocks access however there<br />

is a route past it on the true right that<br />

starts about fi fty metres upstream and<br />

follows deer trails at a height of about<br />

50 metres above the gorge. After about<br />

two hours travel a small river fl at will be<br />

seen below, signalling the end of the<br />

gorge so you can now drop into the<br />

river bed. Once back in the main river it<br />

is easy travel until the forks are reached.<br />

Leave the river here and head up the<br />

centre spur towards point 681 and then<br />

sidle into the <strong>Stina</strong> head basin. There is<br />

a good dry campsite in the head basin<br />

on the true right in the beech trees<br />

which is a good place to be based to<br />

access the rest of the block. However,<br />

by camping here you will ruin the<br />

hunting in the head basin so hunt it fi rst<br />

before setting up camp. Some hunters<br />

do this by climbing up onto the ridge<br />

north of Bare Cone and travelling along<br />

it to look into the <strong>Stina</strong> head basin. Kiwi<br />

Above; A good 12 point rack taken by Brian<br />

Head on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn in the 2008 season.<br />

It measures 41” in length and scores close to<br />

300DS. Heads like this were very rare ten years<br />

ago but are now becoming more common.<br />

The head was taken at a range of 150 metres<br />

on the open tops. Photo Jon Wood<br />

Left; The author on the Tinsley Highway looking<br />

towards the mouth of the Wild Natives block in<br />

Bligh Sound on a beautiful Fiordland afternoon.<br />

ROD & RIFLE 15


HUNTING<br />

The collection of old antlers there can’t fail to get a hunter’s imagination running<br />

are present in the area and on a still<br />

night you will hear them calling. From<br />

here it is easy to access the Tinsley<br />

Highway which is a long easy going<br />

ridge that travels from the head basin<br />

along to Bare Cone and then to the end<br />

of the block at Wood Cutters Peak. This<br />

was a favourite route of Ray Tinsley’s<br />

back in the late 70’s and early 80’s and<br />

is described in his classic book ‘Call of<br />

the Wapiti’. A kilometre along from Bare<br />

Cone there is a slip that stretches from<br />

near the ridge top down to the sea in<br />

Bligh Sound and this is known as the<br />

Stair Way to Heaven in some of the old<br />

hunting books. The coastal faces of the<br />

<strong>Stina</strong> block offer excellent bush hunting<br />

for roaring stags and bugling bulls.<br />

Long ridges and faces go down to the<br />

sea and they have numerous wallows<br />

on them. There are some huge grassy<br />

slips on these faces however although<br />

I have seen them from a helicopter I<br />

have never been able to fi nd them while<br />

actually hunting the faces.<br />

Ray Tinsley and his hunting<br />

companion Bill Harris unoffi cially named<br />

the major catchment at the back of the<br />

block draining into George Sound the<br />

Catsarse Creek when they hunted this<br />

area extensively in the late seventies.<br />

There is an old meat hunters camp<br />

called Bernie’s Camp situated about<br />

700 metres down the seaward ridge<br />

that leads from the top of the <strong>Stina</strong> head<br />

basin down to the mouth of Catsarse<br />

Creek. The collection of old antlers there<br />

can’t fail to get a hunters imagination<br />

running. This is a great spot to base<br />

your self as it also gives access into the<br />

head of the Catsarse Creek.<br />

There is enough room for a helicopter<br />

to drop a party off at the mouth of the<br />

Catsarse however I learnt the hard<br />

way that there is no area suitable for a<br />

campsite there. The leading ridges on<br />

both sides of the Catsarse offer very<br />

good hunting. The Catseye/Catsarse<br />

ridge has a very rough area just before<br />

it hits the Tinsley Highway however this<br />

can be by passed by dropping into the<br />

head basin of Catsarse Creek. The <strong>Stina</strong><br />

Burn block offers great bush hunting<br />

and like all of the wapiti blocks it is now<br />

starting to show its potential again so is<br />

well worth a look.<br />

And don’t forget to pack your fi shing<br />

rod, as the cod fi shing near the mouth<br />

of the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn is excellent.<br />

16 ROD & RIFLE<br />

A Hunt in the <strong>Stina</strong><br />

by Simon Gibson<br />

I had been on the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn block several years earlier chasing<br />

bugling bulls for two weeks in fi ne weather so when Dave rang to<br />

say our group had been successful in the wapiti ballot for the <strong>Stina</strong><br />

I was rapt as it is a great block.<br />

On our fi rst visit we had started the<br />

trip at the base camp by the mouth<br />

of the <strong>Stina</strong> Burn like most parties do<br />

but this year was to be different. At the<br />

last minute we changed our plans after<br />

meeting a couple of seasoned wapiti<br />

hunters in the local pub who told us of a<br />

campsite at the mouth of the Catsarse<br />

on the other side of the block. Our<br />

pilot confi rmed he had dropped some<br />

Aussies there once so we were all set. I<br />

was looking forward to visiting this little<br />

inlet, as it was the spot where many<br />

of Ray Tinsley’s trips started when the<br />

fi shing boat ‘The Alias’ dropped him<br />

there. With the usual mountain of gear<br />

stowed we set off from Milford Sound<br />

in Geoff Shanks’ squirrel<br />

and headed over the<br />

Fiordland tops towards the<br />

<strong>Stina</strong> Burn. As we came<br />

into land at the mouth of<br />

Catsarse Creek my alarm<br />

bells were ringing. It was a<br />

very tight little creek mouth<br />

with very steep hills and<br />

rocky bluffs surrounding it<br />

and my doubts about its<br />

suitability as a base camp<br />

were soon confi rmed.<br />

Within minutes the noise<br />

of the chopper was fading<br />

into the distance as we set<br />

about fi nding the campsite<br />

and setting up our base<br />

camp. As we all rounded<br />

the fi rst corner of the creek<br />

loaded down with gear<br />

a large waterfall greeted<br />

us and it was then that<br />

we realised there was no<br />

campsite and worse still<br />

nowhere to camp at all as<br />

the only fl at areas were<br />

absolute bogs. We were to<br />

fi nd the so called campsite<br />

later but it was 200 metres<br />

up the side of a very steep<br />

slope and a terrible spot to be based.<br />

For me it was a valuable lesson learned,<br />

you should only heed advice from those<br />

who have actually been to an area.<br />

Making the most of the situation camp<br />

was set up on the best of the bogs<br />

and gear sorted for the next few weeks<br />

hunting. Dave and I were heading up<br />

the Catsarse/Catseye ridge while Mike<br />

and Barraclough were heading for<br />

Bernie’s Camp on the seaward leading<br />

ridge that ends over looking the <strong>Stina</strong><br />

head basin. By nightfall we had made<br />

the ridge top and pitched camp, well<br />

satisfi ed with the afternoon’s efforts.<br />

Away early the next morning it wasn’t<br />

long before I had several wapiti bulls


ugling in response to my roars. One<br />

bull in the Catseye block was screaming<br />

its defi ance non stop with a lovely high<br />

pitched bugle. As we came to the start<br />

of a scrubby saddle a bull suddenly<br />

replied to my roars from only 50 metres<br />

away. Dave stayed back while Sako<br />

and I crept in as the bull kept bugling.<br />

Wapiti hunting doesn’t get any more<br />

exciting than this and as I got closer<br />

the tension was unbearable. It was so<br />

thick that I only had 5 metres visibility<br />

Above; A typical Fiordland camp in heavy<br />

bush. Most wapiti blocks cover a large area<br />

so it is essential to move camp around the<br />

block so time is not wasted travelling back to<br />

base camp all the time. By travelling to good<br />

areas when the weather is bad and camping<br />

you will be in prime hunting country when the<br />

weather clears and not waste the good days<br />

getting there. Left; 3/ The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn block has<br />

a relatively small area of open tops however<br />

these give good access to the ridges on the<br />

coastal faces.<br />

and then it happened. A huge creamy<br />

bull with massive lower tines suddenly<br />

appeared in front on me but as quick<br />

as Sako can be, the bull crashed away<br />

before we could get a shot off. Cursing<br />

my luck I headed back towards Dave on<br />

the top of the saddle who had a tale to<br />

tell himself.<br />

The bull had run along the top of the<br />

ridge and they had come face to face<br />

with the bull only two metres from Dave<br />

before it wheeled around and crashed<br />

downhill. Dave had his camera around<br />

his neck but had been taken totally by<br />

surprise and never got a picture. I had<br />

been unable to see the bull’s tops but<br />

Dave said that while he had tremendous<br />

lower tines his tops were weak and he<br />

was probably a young animal so it was<br />

good I never got a shot off. By now<br />

rain was starting to fall and the going<br />

was very slow through the thick scrub.<br />

By late afternoon and in heavy rain we<br />

came to a beautiful tussock area full of<br />

wallows and game trails but with the<br />

weather being so wet there was not<br />

a sight or sound of any animals. We<br />

were both soaked thru and very tired<br />

so we pitched camp and turned in<br />

early. The next morning was no better<br />

as we packed up camp in heavy rain<br />

and headed for the Tinsley Highway. By<br />

ROD & RIFLE 17


HUNTING<br />

late afternoon we were fi nally above the<br />

<strong>Stina</strong> Burn head basin and dropping<br />

down to the campsite in rain that was<br />

getting heavier by the minute. As we<br />

were getting the fl y up the rain became<br />

so heavy it was like someone had a fi re<br />

hose on us from above. No sooner had<br />

we got the camp pitched than the rain<br />

eased off and fi nally stopped. Twenty<br />

minutes later the sun peeped through<br />

and a red stag roared on the rim of<br />

the head basin. With only ten minutes<br />

of light left I wandered down to the<br />

tussock below and immediately saw<br />

a magnifi cent red stag roaring on the<br />

ridge top. Glassing him I could make<br />

out at least 12 points; he remains the<br />

biggest red stag I have ever seen. I<br />

raced back to camp and grabbed Dave<br />

but there was simply no time left to go<br />

after him. We planned for an early start<br />

the next morning however a southerly<br />

front put paid to that and we never saw<br />

or heard that stag again as we were<br />

camp bound for several days as rain<br />

As we came to the start of a<br />

scrubby saddle a bull suddenly<br />

replied to my roars from only<br />

50 metres away- Dave stayed<br />

back while Sako and I crept in<br />

as the bull keep bugling<br />

and hail lashed the area. Great gusts of<br />

wind came up the valley, sounding like<br />

a freight train and trying to tear our tent<br />

and fl y from their anchor points. The<br />

weather report from the mountain radio<br />

schedule that night indicated a few fi ne<br />

days so we decided to head onto the<br />

tops the next day. The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn has<br />

a relatively small area of tops but these<br />

give good access to the spurs running<br />

down the coastal faces.<br />

It was very frustrating listening to<br />

hunting parties on some of the most<br />

sort after blocks calling up to be taken<br />

out because of the wet weather;<br />

ironically they were being picked up as<br />

the weather cleared.<br />

We spent the day hunting and roaring<br />

on the spurs leading down to the sea,<br />

but with mixed results. Dave managed<br />

to photograph a young wapiti bull<br />

holding several cows and several other<br />

animals were seen but no trophies. The<br />

next morning we headed downriver and<br />

then up a steep ridge to camp near<br />

the basin above the <strong>Stina</strong> mouth for a<br />

18 ROD & RIFLE<br />

Dave Cochrane took this heavy antlered eleven point hybrid after an exciting hunt with the author.<br />

few days. Despite many hours glassing<br />

this great area we saw only one wapiti<br />

cow in the distance although there<br />

was plenty of fresh sign about. During<br />

our stay there we heard several wapiti<br />

bulls bugling well in the valley below<br />

and a few others of mixed parentage<br />

bellowing down by the <strong>Stina</strong> River so<br />

this is where we headed. Dropping<br />

our packs we proceeded down river<br />

towards a stag that was roaring well<br />

in response to my roars. Dave was in<br />

the lead and he suddenly threw his rifl e<br />

up and fi red, downing a very heavy 11<br />

pointer on the rivers edge. The stag<br />

had been coming in on my roars and<br />

was a lot closer than we expected.<br />

Although the stag had been roaring<br />

well it had a slightly creamy coat and<br />

we surmised that it was a hybrid. After<br />

the usual photos we removed the rack<br />

and headed back to camp in the head<br />

basin. With rain falling again the next<br />

day we packed and headed for Bernie’s<br />

Camp where Mike and Barraclough had<br />

been for the last week. After a miserable<br />

wet trip I was really looking forward to<br />

catching up with the boys but the camp<br />

was empty when we fi nally arrived late<br />

evening.<br />

This camp has quite a collection of<br />

old antlers lying about and has been


used by wapiti hunters for decades.<br />

During Mike and Barraclough’s stay<br />

they had some tremendous stalking<br />

action as they chased bugling and<br />

roaring stags on the coastal faces with<br />

Barraclough taking some outstanding<br />

photos and video footage. Over the<br />

last few days one of my big toes had<br />

become badly infected and during the<br />

night waves of pain shot up my leg and<br />

I thought my trip was over. In the early<br />

hours of the morning as rain lashed our<br />

Above; The <strong>Stina</strong> Burn tops looking towards the head of Bligh Sound.<br />

Left; The late Charlie Tattersall holds Steve Collings big 13 from the <strong>Stina</strong><br />

(1991); 42.5 inches long by 39 inches wide.<br />

tent I’d had enough<br />

so asked Dave if he<br />

would use his knife to<br />

open my toe to relieve<br />

the pressure. The relief<br />

was tremendous and<br />

after applying a liberal<br />

coating of antiseptic<br />

cream I had no more<br />

problems. After packing<br />

camp for the last time<br />

in the rain we headed<br />

down the ridge towards<br />

base camp at the<br />

mouth of the Catsarse.<br />

Arriving at Catsarse<br />

Creek we found a<br />

raging torrent and as<br />

we tried to work our<br />

way along the creek<br />

edge to fi nd a better<br />

crossing we could<br />

see the level rising<br />

rapidly making it far too dangerous to<br />

attempt a crossing. With nowhere to<br />

camp we had to climb several hundred<br />

metres back up the ridge to fi nd a fl at<br />

spot and it was here that we found the<br />

remains of the Australians campsite<br />

from several years ago. It had been<br />

left in a disgusting state with rubbish<br />

everywhere. As we cleaned up the mess<br />

some pretty angry words were directed<br />

at them and I certainly hope they never<br />

return to Fiordland. Huddled under the<br />

fl y soaking wet and with base camp just<br />

across the creek we both felt quite sorry<br />

for ourselves. By late evening the rain<br />

had eased so we dropped down to the<br />

creek to check its level to fi nd it must<br />

have dropped at least a metre. Leaving<br />

a river level marker peg in the sand we<br />

raced back uphill to break camp and<br />

returned to attempt a crossing just on<br />

dusk. On our arrival back at the creek<br />

an hour later it had dropped more so I<br />

called out to see if Mike and Barraclough<br />

were at base camp and sure enough<br />

they appeared on the river bank. Within<br />

minutes we were changing into dry<br />

cloths and downing cups of hot coffee.<br />

Packing camp up next morning in<br />

the sun was pleasant but sadly meant<br />

the end of another great Fiordland<br />

adventure. Our chopper arrived on time<br />

and we were treated to a fabulous trip<br />

out as our pilot took us on a scenic trip<br />

home looking for deer on some of the<br />

high ridges.<br />

This was the wettest trip I have done<br />

to Fiordland with only three fi ne days<br />

out of fourteen however we still saw<br />

some good animals. It’s the beauty and<br />

magic of Fiordland and her wapiti bulls<br />

that draws me back year after year no<br />

matter what the weather.<br />

Acknowledgements; The Banwell<br />

Archives; John Hall-Jones;<br />

ROD & RIFLE 19

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