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Sassy Sweet Mini Skirt ZUCKA - Farbenmix

Sassy Sweet Mini Skirt ZUCKA - Farbenmix

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<strong>Sassy</strong> <strong>Sweet</strong> <strong>Mini</strong> <strong>Skirt</strong> <strong>ZUCKA</strong><br />

Design: glitzerblume*de<br />

<strong>ZUCKA</strong> offers many design possibilities. The pattern includes an underskirt. These<br />

instructions have left off the underskirt and show how to attach the ruffle to the<br />

skirt. <strong>ZUCKA</strong> can also be constructed sequentially in many different ways. Please<br />

use your preferred methods if those differ from our instructions.<br />

Cut all pieces according to the piece list. Be<br />

sure to add an additional seam allowance<br />

beyond the pattern piece lines.<br />

Similarly, cut the flounce and ruffle pieces<br />

with seam allowances.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 1 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Cut the pockets and pocket flaps with an<br />

additional seam allowance. Cut the pocket<br />

flap linings. Cut the lining pieces for the<br />

patch pockets (optional). You may choose<br />

to leave thes patch pockets off the skirt.<br />

Auf die rückwärtigen und die kleine Tasche<br />

vorne kann auf Wunsch auch verzichtet<br />

werden.<br />

Please note: The pockets photographed to<br />

the left are not the same shape as the<br />

pockets on the pattern sheet. The pattern<br />

sheet has two different patch pockets and<br />

pocket flaps. Experiement with the pocket<br />

shapes and sizes as you like.<br />

Stitch the skirt front side pieces to the skirt<br />

front middle pieces, fabric right sides<br />

together. Stitch the skirt back side pieces<br />

to the skirt back middle pieces. Press the<br />

seam allowances toward the center and<br />

topstitch from the garment right side.<br />

Stitch the saddle panel pieces (pieces 3 or<br />

20) to the two skirt back halves, right sides<br />

together. Press the seam allowances<br />

upward and topstitch from the right side.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 2 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Stitch the two skirt back halves together.<br />

Press the seam allowance to one side and<br />

topstitch.<br />

Stitch the front pocket bags (piece7) at the<br />

front pocket edge of the skirt front side<br />

pieces (piece 2 or 22), fabric right sides<br />

together. Trim the seam allowance for a<br />

smooth turn. Turn and enclose the seam.<br />

Press and edgestitch the pocket edge from<br />

the right side.<br />

Stitch the front pocket facing pieces (piece<br />

6) to the front pocket bag (piece 7) right<br />

sides together along the curved edge and<br />

the inside side. Pin or baste stitch the front<br />

pockets at the waist edge and skirt front<br />

sides to hold the layers of material in place.<br />

As desired, secure the pocket to the skirt<br />

with a decorative stitch. Trace the pocket<br />

line with disappearing textile marker or<br />

tailor’s chalk. Stitch over the line with a<br />

stitch of your choice.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 3 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Unlined Pocket:<br />

Fold the front edge over once toward the<br />

fabric right side. Stitch along the short<br />

vertical ends. Notch the corners and turn<br />

the top of the pocket. Press the pocket top<br />

edge and press the seam allowances on the<br />

sides and bottom toward the pocket wrong<br />

side.<br />

Lined pockets and lined pocket flaps:<br />

Stitch the pocket flap lining to the pocket<br />

flap outer (piece 14) right sides together.<br />

Leave a small opening for turning. Trim the<br />

seam allowance and notch the corners for a<br />

smooth turn. Turn the flaps right side out<br />

and press. Press the seam allowances at<br />

the small opening toward the inside of the<br />

flap. Edgestitch around the flap edge and<br />

close the small opening. Edgestitch around<br />

the entire pocket flap.<br />

Repeat the above for the pocket pieces.<br />

However, edgestitch only along the top of<br />

the pocket.<br />

Pin the pockets to the skirt back at the<br />

marks and stitch. Secure the stress points<br />

of the pocket corners with bar tacks.<br />

Pin the pocket flaps above the pockets<br />

approxmiately 1-2 cm (3/8-5/8 in.) and<br />

stitch. Reinforce the stress points of the<br />

flap corners with bar tacks.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 4 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Stitch the two skirt front halves together<br />

right sides together. Stitch around the faux<br />

fly extensions. From the right side press<br />

the seam allowance toward the left<br />

(wearer’s right).<br />

Für einen Rock nur mit Gummizug die<br />

Mittelnaht komplett schließen. Nahtzugabe<br />

auf eine Seite klappen und von rechts<br />

knappkantig absteppen.<br />

Tuck in the fly extensions to form a little<br />

vertical pocket. With a textile marker or<br />

tailor’s chalk, mark a line to mimic the<br />

stitching line of a zipper fly. Topstitch the<br />

middle seam from the right side. When you<br />

reach the marking for the faux fly, stitch up<br />

the marked line. To further reinforce the<br />

illusion of a zipper fly, stitch a small bar<br />

tack at the base of the faux fly.<br />

Repeat the above steps for attaching the<br />

rear pockets for the side pockets.<br />

Experiment with the pocket placement and<br />

find a look you like.<br />

Pin the skirt front and back right sides<br />

together and stitch the side seams. Press<br />

the seam allowances toward the front and<br />

topstitch.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 5 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Stitch the flounces pieces right sides<br />

together to form a ring. Press the seam<br />

allowances in the same directions of<br />

corresponding skirt seams and topstitch<br />

from the right side.<br />

Align the flounce seams with the skirt<br />

seams and pin. Stitch, press the seam<br />

allowance upward and topstitch.<br />

Hem the bottom flounce edge.<br />

The overskirt is now complete. You may<br />

leave off the underskirt and skip ahead to<br />

adding the waistband. You may also chose<br />

to add a ruffle underneath without adding<br />

the underskirt. These instructions will show<br />

you will method.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 6 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Stitch the short ends of the underskirt<br />

ruffle pieces right sides together to form a<br />

ring. Press the seam allowances open.<br />

Hem the bottom edge of the ruffle.<br />

Mark a line for attaching the ruffle on the<br />

skirt approximately 1 - 3 cm (3/8 – 1 ¼<br />

in.) (depending on the size and your<br />

preference) above the flounce seamline on<br />

both the skirt wrong and right sides. Please<br />

use a seam gauge and check to make sure<br />

that the two lines are right on top of one<br />

another on the fabric right and wrong sides.<br />

Along the top edge of the ruffle ring,<br />

stitch two lines of basting stitches. Pin the<br />

ruffle piece in four or eight places<br />

equidistant around marked line on the<br />

skirt wrong side. Gently pull both<br />

gathering threads to gather and fit the<br />

ruffle material to the underskirt hem. Pin<br />

the ruffle in place as you go.<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 7 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>



Once the ruffle is gathered to fit and pinned<br />

to the skirt, stitch the ruffle to the skirt<br />

from the skirt right side. It is recommended<br />

to use a wide decorative stitch to be sure to<br />

catch the ruffle in your stitching line. It is<br />

recommended to use a wide decorative<br />

stitch to be sure to catch the ruffle in your<br />

stitching line. Clean up the seam by<br />

removing the basting stitches.<br />

Fold the lengthwise belt loop edges toward<br />

the center and overlap them (piece 10).<br />

Stitch the belt loops, perhaps with a twin<br />

needle or with a decorative stitch to secure<br />

the folds.<br />

Pin the waistband right fabric side to the<br />

inside of the inside of the skirt along the<br />

waist edge. Stitch the waistband to the<br />

skirt through both skirt layers along the<br />

waist edge seam allowance. Fold the<br />

waistband upward and press the seam. At<br />

this time, press the opposite waistband<br />

edge toward the fabric wrong side (it is<br />

easiest to press eight along the stitching<br />

of the overcast stitches of the finished<br />

edge).<br />

Fold the waistband over toward the<br />

garment right side and pin the folded<br />

bottom edge to the skirt. Press the top<br />

waistband fold. Stitch the waistband to<br />

the skirt from the garment right side. This<br />

stitching line will be somewhat below the<br />

first waistband stitching line. Edgestitch<br />

the top edge of the waistband.<br />

Attach the belt loops with bar tacks.<br />

Alternately, you may pin one end of the<br />

belt loops under the front waistband edge<br />

before stitching and catch the bottoms of<br />

the belt loops in this stitching line. Secure<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 8 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>




<br />

the beltloops with bar tacks at the top<br />

edge of the waistband.<br />

With the aid of a safety pin or bodkin,<br />

insert elastic into the waistband casing.<br />

Cinch the elastic to the desired fit. Stitch<br />

the ends of the elastic together securely.<br />

Tuck the elastic into the casing opening.<br />

Close the opening with a few hand<br />

stitches.<br />

Make the sash: Fold the sash in half<br />

lengthwise, fabric right sides together.<br />

Stitch along all four edges. Leave a small<br />

opening for turning. Notch the corners.<br />

Turn the sash right side out. Press the<br />

sash. Edgestitch all the way around the<br />

sash and close thereby the opening.<br />

Insert the sash into the belt loops and<br />

loosely tie into a square knot.<br />

<strong>ZUCKA</strong> is complete!<br />

©2010
farbenmix
GbR
 Pollehn & Pollehn Page 9 of 9 <strong>ZUCKA</strong>


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