Mumm 30 Tuning Guide - L-36 Fleet

SOLUTIONS FOR TODAY’S SAILORS 

MUMM 30 

TUNING 

GUIDE 

NORTH SAILS 

10/00

The Mumm 30 follows closely on the heels of the successful Mumm 36 class 

with the Mumm 30 designed as an exciting yet simple boat to sail. The 

absence of running backstays and large genoas do a lot to simplify 

boathandling. A generous mainsail, asymmetric spinnaker and larger rudder 

ensure superb light air performance with complete control as the breeze freshens. 

This is further helped by the very high stability designed into the hull. We are very 

excited about the potential of the Mumm 30 and look ahead to a great, wellorganized 

class of owner-driven boats. 

The boat can be easily trailed and launched with its optional single point lifting 

eye. It’s simple enough for the whole family to rig and sail yet lively enough to thrill 

the most seasoned sailor. 

Bruce Farr and Associates, Inc. and the respective class builders under the 

management of Geoff Stagg of Farr International, have proven their ability to 

produce high-quality uniform boats as evidenced by the Mumm 36 class, and now 

the Mumm 30. The class has established itself firmly in the North American racing 

scene. 

At North Sails, we’re proud to have been involved with the Mumm 36 and Mumm 

30 from their inception. We have worked hard to develop sails that will deliver the 

speed you need to win and the durability you need to keep winning, season after 

season. We’ve also worked hard to prepare this Mumm 30 Tuning Guide to help 

you get your boat and crew competitive fast. Use it...it works! 

Tom Whidden 

CEO, North Sails Group 

2 

UPDATES 

North Sails is constantly refining 

tuning techniques and rig settings as 

we and our customers gain experience 

in individual classes. This information 

is shared daily among North staff 

worldwide via our corporate intranet. 

While this Tuning Guide provides a 

giant step toward achieving 

competitive speed in your class, be 

sure to contact your North 

representative about the latest Mumm 

30 tuning developments.

TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Mumm 30 Tuning Guide 

Deck plan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 

Setting up the Rig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 

Mainsail Trim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 

Genoa Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 

Asymmetric Spinnaker Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 

Symmetric Spinnaker Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 

Tacking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 

Gybing the Asymmetric Spinnaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 

Gybing the Symmetric Spinnaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 

Crew Weight in Light Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 

Crew Weight in Medium Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 

Mainsail Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 

Light Headsail Shape. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 

Medium Headsail Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 

Heavy Headsail Shape. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 

Asymmetric Spinnaker Tips. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 

Masthead Spinnaker Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 

Sail Range Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 

Running Rigging List. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 

North Sails Lofts and Contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 

Tips & Techniques. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 

Dave Hirsch 

Andreas Josenhans 

Dave Scott Grant “Fuzz” Spanhake 

3DL inventors J.P. Baudet 

(left) and Luc Dubois 

CONTRIBUTORS 

David Hirsch, Sail Designer 

A leader in sail design for over 20 years, and a 

member of Norths Performance Resource Group 

(PRG). David designed the sail inventory for the 

Mumm 30 with special emphasis on developing 

REGATTA 3DL sails and Asymmetric spinnakers. A 

veteran of seven America’s Cup syndicates and 

many grand prix racing programs, David’s 

expertise in sail analysis are what make North 

sails consistently fast out of the bag. 

Andreas Josenhans, Performance Development 

Andreas is an expert in developing boat speed 

and tuning. Involved in a variety of grand prix 

projects, Andreas is a winner of six world 

championships in one design and a veteran of 

three America’s Cup syndicates. Andreas was the 

sail coordinator for Pact ’95 in the recent 

America’s Cup. Andreas is a member of the 

Canadian Sports Hall of Fame. 

Dave Scott, Product Development 

Dave’s wide range of experience onboard all types 

of racing boats makes de-bugging and speed 

development look easy. A sailmaker with North 

since 1986, Dave is constantly on the go sailing 

with clients from Mumm 36s to SuperYachts 

where he has cultivated a reputation for 

consistency and diligence. When Dave sails for 

fun, he’s a heck of a helmsman, too. 

Grant (Fuzz) Spanhake, Product Development 

Author- Mumm 30 tuning guide. Following the 

‘95 America’s Cup where he was a tailer onboard 

Young America, Fuzz works as a consultant to 

North on special projects. Previous America’s 

Cup experience includes Team New Zealand in 

‘87-(tailer), and coach for B. Koch’s ‘92 defense. 

In the Whitbread, Fuzz raced onboard Lion New 

Zealand in ‘84 & in ‘89 on Fisher & Paykel. 

Luc DuBois & J.P. Baudet, 3DL Inventors 

Swiss natives, sailmaker J.P. Baudet raced 

onboard Whitbread winner, UBS Switzerland in 

‘84 and was the Sail Coordinator to Merit in ’88. 

Teaming up with engineer Luc DuBois, they 

introduced 3DL to North Sails in 1989, creating a 

sailmaking revolution. J.P. heads 3DL R&D where 

new applications of 3DL in one design and club 

racers will make sails lighter, faster and more 

affordable. 

VERSION 5 (10/00) 

© North Sails, 2000 All Rights Reserved 

3

4 


DECK LAYOUT 

Deck plan drawing supplied courtesy of Bruce 

Farr & Associates, Inc. and Farr International 

Headsail 

Barberhaulers 

Headsail Sheet 

Spinnaker Sheet 

Foreguy 

Bobstay 

Spinnaker 

Tweakers 

Backstay 

Spinnaker Guy

SETTING UP THE RIG 

The challenge and fun of One Design 

racing begins with having your boat 

optimized for top performance. To get 

the best out of your new Mumm 30, 

first be sure the rig is in the center of 

the boat. Then you can set mast rake, 

forestay & backstay length, and set 

the tension on the cap shrouds and 

diagonals. To center the rig: 

• Use a tape measure on the centerline 

halyard from the hounds to the 

chainplate pin centers. 

• Place a mark on the front center of 

the mast at the bottom spreader. 

• From this point measure to the 

chainplate pin centers. 

This provides two points to look 

through when gauging mast tune. 

(c) 


NOTE: All measurements are taken to the centerline of clevis pins, bolts, etc. 

Please refer to diagram1 for specific measurement locations. 

a) 3.481m (11’ 5”) 

From below decks, measure from the forward bolt of the stemhead fitting to the 

forward side of the mast above the mast plate. 

b)1.146m (3’ 9”) 

Distance from the aft face of the forward bulkhead to center of the mast screw 

on the starboard side. 

NOTE:Distance to the base of the mast fitting is 50mm - 2”. 

c) 2.329m (7’ 7-3/4”) 

Distance from the bottom of the mast step to the top of the bottom band (BAS). 

d) 3.290m (10’ 9-1/2”) ‘J’ measurement 

Taken from the forestay pin to the front edge of the mast, excluding the spinnaker 

pole track and above the mast partners. 

15.19m (49’ 10”) 

Max hoist using the main halyard to the intersection of the hull/transom with no 

load on the backstay. 

MAST PARTNERS - With the mast at maximum J, 

make sure the mast partners are secure. Avoid pointloading 

the mast by spreading the load evenly around 

the spar. 

(b) 

(d) 

(a) 

5

6 



FORESTAY 

There are two methods you can use to 

measure the forestay length. 

Pin-to-Pin: 12.18m (39’11-1/2”) 

• Send a crewmember up the mast with 

a (15m) 50’ tape measure. 

• Hold the end of the tape measure at 

the junction of the mast and T-ball fitting, 

measure down to the pin- center 

on the stemhead fitting. 

A) 1.80m (5’10-7/8”) see diagram 

• Take the topping lift halyard and raise 

to the BAS (top of the black band) at 

the gooseneck. 

• Swing an arc between the mast and 

the headstay. 

• Where the halyard intersects at the 

headstay, place a mark on the headfoil 

and measure to the center of the 

forestay pin at the stemhead fitting. 

NOTE: Use a centerline halyard for 

the most accurate measurement. 

BACKSTAY 

Measure the backstay using the mainsail 

halyard. 

• Attach a tape measure to the main 

halyard and raise to the masthead 

until two-blocked at the masthead. 

• 1300m (42’ 8”) 

With no tension on the backstay, 

measure down to the eyesplice. 

Place a batten (marked at 50mm or 

2” intervals) to measure offsets. The 

backstay flicker (see diagram above) 

should be strong enough to hold the 

backstay clear of the mainsail leech 

in light air. 

Backstay flicker 

CAP SHROUDS 

Once the mast is centered and you 

have measured and adjusted the 

forestay and backstay, adjust the cap 

shrouds. 

• Start with the caps hand tight. Add 

16.5 full turns (360 degrees). 

• The mast pre-bend (deflection) is 

approximately 77mm (3-1/4”) 

measured from the boom to the top 

of the mast or 1/2 of the mast 

section. 

• The maximum bend will be 

approximately 254mm (10”) at the 

dock. 

A B 

1.80m 

(5’10-7/8”) 

Black band on 

headfoil to 

forestay pin. 

DIAGONALS 

D1 

Just like the caps, the diagonals 

should start by being hand tight. Add 

7 full turns (360 degrees). 

4064mm (13’ 4”) Length of the D1 

measured from the top of the fitting to 

the top of the shroud plate. 

D2 

Start at hand tight. Add 10 full turns 

(360 degrees). 

3924mm (12’ 10-1/2”) Length of 

the D2 measured from the top of the 

fitting to the top of the spreader tip 

cup.


Off 


On 50% 

2:1 Backstay 

strop attaches to 

upper floating 

block 

length: 

2070m 

(6’9-1/2”) 

On full 

4:1 Backstay 

strop attaches to 

lower floating 

block 

length: 1780m 

(5’10”) 

BACKSTAY ADJUSTMENTS 

The backstay purchase is the most important adjustment you have on a Mumm 30. In light air (5 knots), a general rule of thumb is 

to have the bottom floating block 50mm (2”) below the top lifeline. As the wind increases, more tension is applied to the backstay. 

Two things happen; a) the headstay straightens, b) the mast bends which depowers the rig. 

For maximum backstay adjust the bottom floating block to 230mm (8”) or two-blocked below the bottom lifeline 

(see photo 3). Keep the stern lifelines tight for measuring this distance. 

Mark #5 

40.5cm-(16”) 

Mark #1 

22cm-(8”) 

SPREADER MARKS 

You can adjust headsail trim easily by using spreader marks. Either the mainsheet 

trimmer or helmsperson sitting on the weather rail can see the jib leech through the 

spreader window in the main. To place accurate spreader marks, use white paint or 

tape to mark the lower spreader. Measuring from the inside edge of the cap shroud, 

place your marks at the following intervals: 

22cm (8”) 28cm (10”) 30.4cm (12”) 

35.5cm (14”) 40.5cm (16”) 45.7cm (18”) 

BARBERHAULERS 

For accurate barberhauler measurement, 

the outside edge of the fairlead 

will be 467mm (18-3/8”) (measured 

from the aft face of the mast partners). 

From the inboard edge of the jib sheet, 

through the barberhauler block 

• measure in 9cm (3-5/8”) 

• mark the line every 3cm (1-1/8”) 

until there are 7 marks. 

7

8 


MAINSAIL TRIM 

Set-Up Attach the mainsail 

onto the boom and place the tack slug 

in the mast. Attach the cunningham 

and secure the outhaul. The clew is 

held securely to the boom with the 

velcro webbing strap supplied with 

your 3DL mainsail. 

Headboard Attach the 

halyard to the headboard, using the 

forward hole which is 40mm (1.5”) 

aft of the front edge of the boltrope. The 

headboard hole should be at least 

12mm (1/2”) diameter. Set the 

backstay with the floating block 50mm 

(2”) below the top lifeline wire. 

z 

Battens supplied with your 

3DL mainsail are either Apex or 

Bluestreak. Starting at the top, place 

the top batten (tapered end forward) 

into the mainsail pocket. Use firm 

tension on all mainsail battens. As a 

reference, the table to the right details 

the type, size, length and width of 

mainsail battens, helpful for replacing 

battens or ordering spare sets. 

LIGHT AIR TRIM: If your mainsheet trimmer is strong, you can 

remove the fine tune part of the mainsheet and trim off the coarse part only. When 

sailing upwind in flat water, the top telltale should be flicking (in and out behind the 

leech, vs. trailing. If the telltale is trailing, then the sheet is probably eased too 

much.). Don’t be afraid to carry the boom above the centerline with the mainsail 

traveler car 228mm (9”) from the side of the cockpit. In choppy water, the top telltale 

should be flowing all the time, with the traveler dropped down 150mm (6”). 

The outhaul should be eased so there is 100mm (4”) of sag to leeward of the 

boom. The cunningham should be off. 

MEDIUM AIR TRIM: To maintain speed, play the traveler constantly. 

Ease the fine tune of the mainsheet 150mm (6”) in the gusts. The boom 

should now be just below center line most of the time. Use moderate boom vang, 

remembering to ease the vang at the top mark. The outhaul should be firm so there 

is no sag to leeward of the boom. Cunningham should be on 100mm (4”). 

HEAVY AIR TRIM: Keep the mainsheet close at hand ready to 

ease. The traveler will be eased down to the cockpit wall (coaming), but be sure to 

play the traveler in the lulls to maintain pointing. When the mainsail is sheeted to 

the max, there is slight boom vang load. The outhaul should be tight, with a crease 

along the boom. The cunningham should be set to maximum. Be ready to ease the 

boom vang and cunningham when rounding the top mark. 

Light Medium Heavy 

Boom/Traveler Above center Just below center Ease to 

coaming 

Vang None Some Max 

Outhaul 100mm sag Firm Max 

Cunningham None 100mm Max 

Batten Type Length Width 

Position Apex/Bluestreak (meters & ft.) Apex/Bluestreak 

TOP 6T OR 5T (Apex) 1.760m/5’ 9-5/16” 45mm (1-3/4”) / 20mm (3/4”) 

Upper Mid TM 5/ OR 2 1.595m/5’ 2-13/16” 45mm (1-3/4”) / 20mm (3/4”) 

Lower Mid TM 5/ OR 3 1.595m/5’ 2-13/16” 45mm (1-3/4”) / 20mm (3/4”) 

BOTTOM TM 5/ OR 4 1.595m/5’ 2-13/16” 45mm (1-3/4”) / 20mm (3/4”)

GENOA TRIM 

Set-Up 3DL headsails are 

supplied with a tack clip (snap hook) 

which is placed on the bar directly 

behind the stemhead fitting. Attach the 

sheets by tying very small bowlines or 

stopper knots through the clew ring. 

(This allows enough adjustment in the barberhaulers.) 

Run the sheet through the 

barberhaulers, through the aft lead 

block under the shockcord guide, then 

to the winch. Use the port halyard and 

set in the port groove. You’ll be on 

starboard tack if you need to set-up a 

headsail change. 

You’ve already marked the barberhaulers, 

(p.6) refer to the table at right 

for fast settings in various wind conditions 

and sea states. 

Battens supplied with your 

3DL headsail are Bluestreak. Starting at 

the top, place the top batten 

(tapered end forward) into the batten 

pocket. Use firm tension on all headsail 

battens. As a reference, the table to the 

right details the type, size, length and 

width of headsail battens, helpful for 

replacing battens or ordering spare sets. 


LIGHT AIR TRIM: Barberhauler is required. If the boat feels 

stalled, ease the barberhauler and/or sheet so the leech is at the spreader tip. Also, 

ease the forestay 25mm (1”) to loosen the headstay. Leave the jib halyard on a 

winch for easy adjusting with increasing or decreasing wind pressure. 

MEDIUM AIR TRIM: Some barberhauler is required. If the boat 

feels stalled, or the headsail is backwinding the mainsail, ease the barberhauler 

and/or sheet until the leech is at the second outside spreader mark. Take up the 

forestay 25mm (1”) to tighten the headstay. The halyard should be firm with 

some wrinkles coming out of the headstay. It’s good to leave the jib halyard on the 

winch until it’s time to lead the spinnaker halyard to the same winch at the top 

mark. 

HEAVY AIR TRIM: No barberhauler required. If the boat is stalled 

or the headsail is backwinding the mainsail, ease the barberhauler and/or sheet 

until the leech is at the spreader tip. Take up the forestay 50mm (2”) to tighten 

the headstay. The halyard should be tight with no wrinkles coming out of the headstay. 

Again, it’s good to leave the jib halyard on the winch until its time to lead the 

spinnaker halyard and/or sheet to the same winch at the top mark. 

Batten Type Length Width 

Position Bluestreak (meters & ft.) Bluestreak 

TOP WR 2 85cm / 2’ 9-1/2” 15mm (5/8”) 

Upper Mid OR 1 80cm / 2’ 7-1/2” 20mm (3/4”) 

Lower Mid OR 3 80cm / 2’ 7-1/2” 20mm (3/4”) 

BOTTOM OR 3 80cm / 2’ 7-1/2” 20mm (3/4”) 

BARBER HAULER SETUP 

True Wind Speed 0-5 5-10 10-15 15-20 20-25 25-30 

Adjust Headstay Length Ease 1” Base Tighten 1” Tighten 1 1/2” Tighten 2” 

(25mm) (37mm) (50mm) 

Barberhauler Mark #1 #2-3 #3-4 #5-OFF OFF OFF 

Spreader Mark (Flat Water) #3-4 #3-2 #2 #2-1 #1 50mm (2”) 

Inboard #4, Outboard #1* inside spreader end 

Spreader Mark (Rough Water) #3 #3 #2 #1 #1 50mm (2”) 

Inboard #4, Outboard #1 inside spreader end 

*For distance races: Install a padeye outboard, just aft of the chainplates. Attach a snatch block onto the 

padeye with the sheet leading to the cabin top winches. 

9

10 


ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKER TRIM 

The Mumm 30 is a very fast, responsive 

boat. We’ve found that small 

adjustments in boat handling can 

enhance speed and overall performance. 

Included is an additional section 

covering standard boat handling 

techniques such as tacking, gybing, and 

coordinating the crew for optimum 

weight distribution in varied sailing 

conditions. 

Our techniques may differ slightly from 

the methods that you and your crew use. 

Your feedback is welcome, and we 

encourage you to practice both ways, 

and let us know what works best for you. 

SET-UP Before you leave the dock... 

• Attach the guy to the headstay. 

• Run the guy through the jaw of the spinnaker pole and attach the pole to the 

mast. 

• Set the spinnaker pole up so it is 460mm (18”) above the deck and sitting 

beside the headstay. 

• Mark the point (black marker pen works well) where the guy is loaded onto the 

cockpit winch. 

Photos show the tack set-up. 

Diagram below shows sheet and guy leads for the asymmetric spinnaker. When gybing, be careful not to push the spinnaker pole 

through the mainsail or between the D1’s and V1’s where the mainsail will gybe onto the exposed end. More information on boat 

handling and gybing are explained on page 12 of this guide.


SYMMETRIC SPINNAKER TRIM 

• Install a piece of shockcord from the 

hounds to a small stainless ring that 

the spinnaker halyard passes through. 

When the spinnaker halyard is castoff, 

the ring pulls the halyard to the 

mast preventing the halyard from 

getting stuck behind the top battens in 

the main. 

• Prevent spinnaker sheets and guys 

from dragging in the water by placing 

a cleat on the edge of the cockpit by 

the genoa winch. 

• In moderate conditions (16 knots), the 

spinnaker luff should fly ‘straight’ or 

perpendicular to the pole. Use the guy 

fore & aft to position the spinnaker for 

max. speed. 

• Always drop the spinnaker on the side 

of the boat where you intend to 

rehoist. Set the spinnaker out of the 

front hatch unless there is a large 

seaway running, preventing the hatch 

from opening without risk of flooding. 

SHEETS & GUYS 

• Run the spinnaker sheets through the barberhaulers (outside the lifelines), back 

to the corner spinnaker blocks (outside to inside with the sheet), along the deck 

through the deflector blocks and up to the cabin top winches. 

• Run the guys aft through the guy blocks outside the lifelines. This provides a 

better angle to the pole. The guys then lead under the spinnaker sheets, and 

under the headsail sheet on the port side, behind the genoa sheets on the 

starboard side to the cleats on the edge of the cockpit coaming below the 

winches. The tails go down below through the open window or into the tail bag. 

• You have a choice of three downwind sails to choose from in the Mumm 30 

rules. A sail chart is included on page 24,which shows the overlap of all 

the sails in the inventory for various wind speeds and angles. A set of polars are 

also provided, courtesy of Bruce Farr and Associates, Inc. 

11

TACKING 

12 


PREPARATION 

1. Look ahead to be sure you will be sailing in clear air after you tack. 

2. Load the weather headsail (new) sheet onto the cockpit winch. Place three turns on the winch and take-up the slack. 

3. Be sure the weather sheet (new) is clear of the spinnaker sheets and leads over the pole, around the outside of the mast and 

halyards. 

4. Be sure the leeward headsail sheet is clear to run. 

5. Try and tack in a smooth spot of water. 

6. If you have to dip a boat after you tack, make sure the mainsheet is ready to ease. 

TACKING 

SEQUENCE 

STEP 1 

Helm 

Gives the command to tack 

Trimmer 

Comes off the rail, crosses cockpit to 

leeward side and uncleats the headsail 

sheet. 

Mainsheet 

Eases mainsheet fine tune 75mm (3”) 

STEP 2 

Helm 

Pushes the helm to leeward smoothly, 

centering the helm 3/4 through the tack. 

Trimmer 

As the headsail is luffing, cast off the old 

headsail sheet by casting the turns off the 

winch, cross the cockpit and grind in the 

headsail sheet. 

Tailer 

Tails in new sheet from the weather side. 

Mainsheet 

Uncleats old traveler line, picks up the new 

traveler line on the other side of the 

cockpit. 

Bow 

Crosses the boat by going under the boom 

vang. 

TACKING IN 

LIGHT AIR 

Bow 

If sitting to leeward, roll tacks by crossing 

to new weather side. If sitting on the 

weather side, stays on the rail, and leans 

over the rail to roll tack. 

Trimmer 

Casts off the headsail sheet, tails in the 

new side (alone). As the boat speed 

climbs, grinds sheet to final trim. 

Mainsheet 

May have to release the topmast backstay 

to clear the mainsail leech. 

Helm 

Pushes the helm to leeward smoothly, centering 

the helm 3/4 through the tack. Also, 

may have to flick the topmast backstay to 

clear the mainsail leech. 

Sail your heart out! 

TACKING IN 

MODERATE- 

HEAVY AIR 

Bow 

Cross the boat quickly and hike your heart 

out! 

Trimmer 

After final trim, move up to the weather rail 

& hike. 

Mainsheet 

Keeps the mainsheet in hand, uncleated. 

Ease after the tack to keep the boat on its 

feet. 

Helm 

Pushes the helm to leeward smoothly, centering 

the helm 3/4 through the tack. Try 

not to bear off too much creating more 

heel, causing the boat to slide to leeward.


GYBING THE ASYMMETRIC 

PREPARATION 

1. Look behind your boat to be sure you will have clear air after you gybe. 

2. Load the weather asymmetric sheet onto the cabin top winch. Place two turns on the 

winch and take-up the slack. 

3. Be sure the weather sheet (new) is around the inside of the asymmetric and sitting 

on top of the spinnaker pole, leading around the outside of the forestay, between the 

sail and the headstay. 

4. The starboard guy is attached to the tack ring of the asymmetric. The bobstay 

and port guy are attached to the eye in the starboard guy snap shackle 

on the outside of the forestay, clear of the pulpit. This gets cleated. 

5. Give the foreguy 600mm (2ft.) of slack so the bowperson can take the spinnaker 

pole off the mast. 

BASIC GYBING 

SEQUENCE 

STEP 1 

New Trimmer 

...is on the guy. Releases the guy quickly 

so the weight is taken up on the bobstay. 

STEP 2 

Bow 

1. Releases the spinnaker pole from the 

mast. 

2. Moves pole aft until the outboard end 

jaws are over the deck. 

3. Trips guy out of jaws. 

STEP 3 

Pit 

Tails in slack of the new sheet as the 

asymmetric comes across the bow, 

hands off sheet to new trimmer. You 

can’t run the old sheet fast enough once 

the bow has passed 180 degrees. 

NOTE: Be careful not to push the 

spinnaker pole through the mainsail or 

between the D1’s and V1’s where the 

mainsail will gybe onto the exposed end. 

GYBING: 

LIGHT AIR 

Bow 

Watches the sail to be sure sheets run 

smoothly. 

Pit 

Pulls in the bobstay as the boat turns, 

until the luff of the asymmetric is tight. 

Old trimmer 

Blows off asymmetric sheet while still 

loaded, allowing the clew to fly away 

from the boat (like a flag). Sets up the 

guy on the marks around the cockpit 

winch once the pole is connected to the 

mast and trims the tack to the pole end. 

New trimmer 

Tails the new asymmetric sheet as fast 

as possible. 

Helm 

The helmsman controls the gybe. Gybes 

are easiest when the apparent wind 

speed is the highest. 

GYBING: LIGHT- 

TO-MODERATE 

STEP 4 

Bow 

Once clew is past the headstay on the 

new leeward side, connects the new guy 

to the spinnaker pole, pushes the pole 

out on the weather side of the headstay, 

connects to mast. 

Pit 

Eases the bobstay out following the tack 

of the asymmetric to the pole end. Then 

readjusts the bobstay once the pole is 

back from the headstay. 

Old Trimmer 

Eases out the asymmetric sheet until the 

clew is near the headstay, holds the 

sheet until the slack is taken up by the 

new sheet, then releases and helps old 

sheet to run free. Sets up the guy on the 

marks around the cockpit winch once 

the pole is connected to the mast and 

trims the tack to the pole end. 

New trimmer 

Trims the sail, easing the sail to follow 

out to the pole, paying attention to 

increasing speed by working with the 

helm for optimum sheeting angle. 

STEP 5 

Helm 

Sails a slightly high course until the 

boat speed is optimum, then adjusts 

helm to sail to correct wind angle. 

TIPS 

1. Best times to gybe the asymmetric are: 

a) The beginning of a puff 

b) Up the back of the wave 

c) When the boat is going slow. 

2. When dropping the asymmetric always 

pull the sail by the luff or the tack area. 

13

14 


GYBING THE SYMMETRIC SPINNAKER 

PREPARATION 

1. Look behind your boat to be sure you will have clear air after you gybe. 

2. Load the weather spinnaker sheet onto the cabin top 

winch. Place two turns on the winch and take-up the slack. 

3. Be sure the weather sheet (new) is on top of the spinnaker pole, leading around the 

outside of the forestay. 

4. Make sure the spinnaker barberhaulers are set for the existing wind pressure. 

5. The lazy guy should be off & ready to go forward (Bow). 

6. Give the foreguy 600mm (2ft.) of slack so the bowperson can take the spinnaker 

pole off the mast. 

BASIC GYBING 

SEQUENCE 

STEP 1 

Pit 

Releases the foreguy as the spinnaker pole 

is trimmed aft as the boat turns down. 

Guy trimmer 

trims the pole aft. 

STEP 2 

Sheet trimmer 

Takes up on the new spinnaker sheet 

before the spinnaker pole trip is called. 

Eases the old spinnaker sheet out to the 

headstay, while tailing in on the new 

spinnaker sheet, as the boat is turned. 

STEP 3 

Bow 

1. Has the new (lazy) guy in hand ready to 

place into pole. 

2. Trips guy out of jaws. 

3. Releases pole from mast and connects 

lazy spinnaker guy, pushes pole out and 

forward underneath spinnaker sheet and 

attaches to the mast again. 

Pit 

Eases foreguy 150mm (6”). Releases 

spinnaker tweaker all the way. 


MODERATE AIR 

Sheet trimmer 

Quickly eases the old sheet to the headstay 

while trimming the new sheet, then sets the 

barberhaulers 1/2 way down, and eases 

sheet to the headstay slowly while 

trimming in the new sheet. 

Guy Trimmer 

When the trip is called, quickly releases 

the guy from the winch, making sure the 

sheet trimmer has taken up the new sheet. 

Changes to the new side of the cockpit to 

tail new guy with 2 turns around the winch 

once the spinnaker pole has been connected 

to the mast. 

Helm 

The helmsman controls the gybe. The 

helmsman turns the boat when the clew is 

near the headstay. The turn should be 

smooth maintaining medium speed 

coming out of the optimum VMG angle. 

Full rotation of the spinnaker is key to a 

light air gybe. 


MODERATE AIR 

STEP 4 

Bow 

Moves aft to the new leeward side and collects 

the new lazy guy ready for another 

gybe. 

Pit 

Sets the barberhaulers 1/2 way down, 

and eases sheet to the headstay slowly 

while trimming the new sheet 

Sheet trimmer 

Trims the sail, paying attention to increasing 

speed by working with the helmsman 

for optimum sheeting angle. 

STEP 5 

Helm 

Sails a slightly high course until the boat 

speed is optimum, then adjusts helm to 

sail to correct wind angle. 

TIP 

The best times to gybe the 

spinnaker are: 

a) The beginning of a puff. 

b) Down the front of a wave 

c) When the boat is going fast.

CREW WEIGHT 

Crew weight, when used effectively, is a 

powerful tool on any boat. In level racing 

and one design classes, the optimum 

distribution of crew weight can have a 

large impact on overall sailing 

performance. Besides keeping the boat 

on its feet, and reducing heeling angle, 

weight distribution can change the 

sailing characteristics of the boat. For 

the Mumm 30, the optimum heel angle 

is 15-20 degrees. 

SAILS 

When sailing upwind in light air; 

• Have the headsails flaked into the 

turtle, rolled up and tied. 

• Position sails around the base of the 

mast. 

• Place downwind sails forward on the 

bunks. 

SAILING TIPS: 

• Optimal windspeed for practicing 

asymmetric spinnaker gybing for the 

first time is 7-10 TWS 

• When reaching with either asymmetric 

or spinnaker, be sure to ease the 

leeward barberhaulers. 

• When adjusting sail trim, count the 

number of ratchet clicks, this helps to 

repeat fast settings. 


CREW WEIGHT IN LIGHT AIR 

UPWIND: 

0-7 KNOTS 

Position the crew forward 

and to leeward to induce 

heel or down below if seas 

are choppy. In puffy conditions, 

nominate one or 

two of your most agile 

crewmembers to be 

‘moveable ballast’. Adjust 

their body weight across 

the boat to maintain heel. 

REACHING: 

0-7 KNOTS 

Place some of the crew 

down below to leeward 

and/or the middle of the 

floor. The remaining crew 

are forward on the rail 

or around the 

leeward shroud. 

In light air, you shouldn’t 

sail directly downwind. Use 

the asymmetric as a VMG 

sail. 

15

16 


CREW WEIGHT IN MEDIUM - HEAVY AIR 

SAILS 

When sailing upwind in moderate air; 

• Have the headsails flaked into their 

turtles, rolled up and tied. 

• Position sails forward around 

the floorboards. 

• Place downwind sails on the 

middle bunks. 

In heavy air; 

• Have the sails flaked, rolled in their 

turtles and tied. 

• Position the sails aft behind the main 

hatch on each side of the steps. 

TIPS 

• When the mainsail flogs upwind, the 

center of balance is transferred to the 

headsail. Adjust your helming 

technique to account for this. Make 

sure that you have firm vang on. 

• When overpowered upwind, try 

easing the mainsheet 150mm (6”) on 

the fine tune adjustment. 

• If you feel that you are going slow, 

drop the traveler down, ease the 

backstay and mainsheet. 

• When you adjust the jib halyard, three 

things change: 

1) head depth 

2) draft position 

3) vertical curvature 

• When crewmembers shift their weight 

in response to puffs, do four things: 

1) adjust outhaul 

2) adjust mainsheet 

3) adjust backstay and 

4) adjust jibsheet. 

• When the boat is up to speed and 

sailing comfortably, have the mainsheet 

trimmer turn around and hike 

with legs positioned over the side. 

UPWIND 

In moderate air, all the 

crew will be on the rail. 

The first crewmember will 

be situated against the 

windward stanchion which 

is located 60cm (24”) back 

from the shroud. 

HEAVY AIR 

In heavy air (13-22 knots) 

the crew should be hiking 

as hard as possible, with 

one person sitting behind 

the helmsman. 

Upwind 13-22 knots 

REACHING 

Consolidate the crew in the 

middle of the boat, hiking 

as hard as possible. In 

heavy air, the crew should 

be sitting well aft, and hiking 

hard. 

Sailing downwind, balance 

the crew evenly across the 

boat. In heavy air, the crew 

should be across the back 

of the boat, especially in 

steep seas. If sailing deep 

angles, place the entire 

crew on the leeward rail. 

Reaching 7-12 knots

MAINSAIL SHAPE 


NOTE: In the following sail photos, depth is listed as a 

percent of chord length. Draft position is measured as a 

percent of chord length from the front of the sail. 

True Wind Speed: 5 knots Top: 12.88 of cord length @ 41% draft position MIddle: 13.32 @ 45% 

Bottom: 10.27 @ 44% Notes: Set-up for maximum power, more twist is required using the top mast backstay. 

True Wind Speed: 15 knots Top: 8.30 of cord length @ 46% MIddle: 9.50 @ 50% Bottom: 7.90 @ 46% 

NOTES: The sail luff is just beginning to lift. 

17

18 


MAINSAIL SHAPE 

TWS: 20 knots Top: 5.35 @ 57% MIddle: 6.99 @ 55% Bottom: 6.04 @ 47% 

NOTES: Maximum flattening on all adjustments. 


NOTES: In this photo, we are driving off the lower leech only. It would be best to change to a heavy air jib.

LIGHT HEADSAIL SHAPE 



NOTES: This sail is set up very full and open, looking for power. 


NOTES: This sail is at the top end of its range, the boat needs the medium headsail. 

19

20 


MEDIUM HEADSAIL SHAPE 

TWS 15 knots Top 16.60 @ 39% MIddle 16.00 @ 41% Bottom 12.00 @ 40% 

NOTES: Sail is well set-up with the draft forward and the leech open. 

TWS 23 knots Top 16.68 @ 35% MIddle 16.03 @ 38% Bottom 13.88 @ 34% 

NOTES: The front end of this sail is lifting as the boat is feathered in this windspeed.


HEAVY HEADSAIL SHAPE 

TWS: 25 knots Top: 8.46 @ 38.5% MIddle: 12.5 @ 33.3% Bottom: 10.3 @ 37% 

NOTES: Under high load, this sail fits the rig perfectly. 

TWS: 30 knots Top: 9 @ 46.15% MIddle: 13.89 @ 34.7% Bottom: 11.11 @ 34.8% 

NOTES: The sail is smooth under extreme load with progressive linear twist. 

21

22 


ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKER TIPS 

BROACHING 

CONDITIONS 

The Mumm 30 is fast, responsive and 

accelerates quickly, especially on a 

reach. Keeping the boat balanced and 

maintaining speed is a delicate mix of 

knowing when to push the boat, and 

when to back-off to prevent a broach. 

When sailing in moderate breeze (12-16 

knots), if the boat begins to broach, the 

first rule is...don’t panic! Each member 

of the crew should stay in their position 

and follow-through the steps listed 

below to keep the boat on its feet and 

maintain speed, without surrendering 

precious real estate on the race course 

spinning out on a broach. 

1. Move crew weight aft and out. 

2. Ease mainsheet. 

3. Ease vang. 

4. Ease asymmetric spinnaker. 

5. Ease barberhauler. 

6. Sail a lower course. 

7. Change to a smaller sail. 

ASYMMETRIC 

SPINNAKER 

NOTES 

30/20 Asymmetric 

With 9 vt. the tested cross-over, this 

sail was proven before the fleet grew to 

34 boats. At a crowded mark, the 

asymmetric sail stays in the bag 

allowing the tactician time to position 

the boat downwind allowing more 

gibing options and choice of fast 

lanes. 

Cloth Weight: .6 Poly TWS: 16 knots AWS: 11.2 knots 

TWA: 135° AWA: 97.3°


MASTHEAD SPINNAKER TIPS 

.75 oz. Spinnaker 

(photo not available) 

This sail is more of an All Purpose 

design than the light spinnaker for 

better helm control in a breeze. Using 

the .75 oz. in the upper wind ranges is 

suggested so you don’t overtax the .5. 

SAIL TRIM TIPS 

• Have a pair of trained eyes looking 

behind for downwind pressure, to 

position the boat into the fast lanes. 

• Use a snap-in block for the spinnaker 

barberhaulers. 

• When running with the spinnaker, 

make sure both spinnaker barberhaulers 

are set between 3/4 and full. 

SAIL CARE: 

Congratulations on the purchase of your 

North Sails inventory. Included are 

suggestions to assist in general sail care 

and maintenance. Keep a sail repair kit 

onboard for ‘fixes on the fly’. 

Contents should include: 

• Scissors 

• 10’ x 3” sticky-back Kevlar 

• 20’ x 3” white insignia 

• Pre-waxed twine 

• 4 hand sewing needles & a palm. 

You can purchase a kit through your 

nearest North Sails loft, or put one 

together on your own. 

Spinnakers...On the final spinnaker 

set of the day, have one or two people 

check over the sail for any small holes 

or tears. Any tear over 4” should be 

sent to your nearest North loft for 

repair. DO NOT place sails into a 

swimming pool - chlorine will damage 

the sails. When folding an asymmetric 

sail on your lawn, stay away from dog 

poop. If you have any Dacron sails, 

Sail Type: .6 Nylon Runner TWS: 18 knots AWS: 8.7 knots 

TWA: 146° AWA: 113° Notes: The spinnaker pole in this photo needs to be 

lifted at the inboard end of the pole. The spinnaker barberhauler is set at maximum. 

spray Lysol into the bag to prevent 

mildew. Taking care of your sails will 

extend the life of your sail inventory. 

Mainsail... If left on the boom for an 

extended period of time, remove the 

battens to prevent warping or breaking. 

Always ease the outhaul to relieve the 

load. If any sponsor logos are placed on 

the sail, they should be removed 

immediately. The longer they are left on, 

the harder they are to remove.Remaining 

small sections can be removed with a 

blow-dryer set on LOW. Glue can be 

removed with an acetone wipe. 

Headsails... If the head of the lufftape 

splits open, use some ‘Krazy Glue’ or 

‘Loctite’ to reseal the trouble areas. 

Periodically check the battens for 

breakage. 

23

TWS – True Wind Speed 

24 


SAIL RANGE CHART 

34 

33 

32 

31 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26 

25 

24 

23 

22 

21 

20 

19 

18 

17 

16 

15 

14 

13 

12 

11 

10 

9 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

Overlap 

Heavy Headsail 

60 

Overlap 

Medium 

Headsail 

Overlap 

70 

Light Headsail 

Frac. 

Asy. 

Asymmmetric 

or Symmetric 

Spinnaker 

80 90 100 110 

Both Sails 

TWA – True Wind Angle 

120 130 140 150 

Fractional 

Spinnaker 

.75 Masthead 

Spinnaker 

Overlap 

30/20 20/20 Masthead 

Spinnaker 

No Mans Land 

170 

160 180 

How to use this Chart: Select True Wind Speed (TWS) on the vertical bar and True Wind Angle (TWA) on the horizontal bar. 

Where the two intersect will tell you what sail should be used. If this point falls within one of the overlap areas, there will be little 

or no speed difference between the two sails.

RUNNING RIGGING LIST 


Halyards 

MAINSAIL Tapered Technora ® with captive D-shackle 

GENOA Tapered Technora with snap shackle 

SPINNAKER Tapered Spectra ® with snap shackle 

Sheets 

GENOA 100% Spectra core/Polyester cover with J-Lock Jr. shackle 

SPINNAKER Tapered Spectra with snap shackle 

ASYMMETRIC CLEW STRAP Eye-to-Eye Spectra 

AFTERGUYS Tapered Spectra with snap shackle 

• In Spectra and Technora rigging, chafe is your enemy. When the 

covers wear, exposing the core, the breaking strength of the halyard or sheet is 

greatly reduced. 

• After a windy series, double-check all sheets, guys, and halyards for chafe. As a 

quick fix, tape over worn areas, and replace as soon as feasible. 

• Teflon tape works extremely well, and is available from North Sails Rigging. The 

trade-off between performance and weight means the rigging is not ‘overbuilt’ for 

the loads onboard the Mumm 30. 

• On most boats, the halyards and sheets should be replaced every year. If you 

have a busy racing calendar, spare halyards and genoa sheets are 

recommended. 

25

26 


TIPS & TECHNIQUES 

• Keep a disposable camera onboard. You can build up a library 

of fast sail shapes to study later. 

• Warmer waters encourage bottom growth, make sure 

the bottom is cleaned just before every race. 

• Keep a toolkit onboard - it should include an adjustable wrench, 

vise grips, screwdriver(s), serrated edged knife, and 

rigging tape so you can change the tension on the diagonals 

between races. 

• Between races, always check that the mast partners 

are still in place. 

• Use a piece of shockcord to hold down the tack slug on the 

gooseneck fitting. 

• Add a retainer bracket across the top of the traveler 

cleat to hold the traveler line. 

• Install a piece of shockcord from the hounds to a small stainless 

ring that the spinnaker halyard passes through. When the 

spinnaker halyard is cast-off, the ring pulls the halyard to the 

mast preventing the halyard from getting stuck behind the top 

battens in the main. 

• If the jib hits the spreaders in heavy air, use the 

forward luff groove. 

• Install a spreader window in the main for easy viewing of the jib 

leech. 

• When you hit a velocity header, let the boat glide to 

weather until the new target speed is suited to the 

new wind speed. 

• If you are forced to sit below in light air, make sure you have a 

good newspaper and cookies! 

• Back down 6 minutes before the start of the race. 

• Use Kevlar or Spectra for jib barberhaulers. 

• In moderate air, try cross-sheeting the jib. 

• Keeping the crew on the rail is a number one priority. 

• Keep the spinnaker within easy reach, attach a sail tie 

to the spinnaker bag and duct tape to the main hatch. 

• Below 8 knots of wind, don’t be afraid to carry the main boom 

above the centerline. 

• Prevent spinnaker sheets and guys from dragging in 

the water by placing a cleat on the cockpit edge by the 

genoa winch. 

• Cover the outboard end of the top batten with stickyback. This 

helps the backstay clear the mainsail in light air. 

• Sight up the back of the mast when sailing upwind to 

be sure the mast is straight side-to-side. 

Note: These are just a few ideas we’ve thought of. You 

may have more. In future versions of the Mumm 30 

guide, we will update these sailing tips for newer ones. 

Send in your suggestions by calling your North 

representative for fax us this page with your additions. 

(phone listings appear on page 24). We look forward to 

hearing from you.


1997 PERFORMANCE TARGETS 

UPWIND 

TWS Boatspeed AWA TWA 

4 3.79 23.3 45.3 

5 4.50 23.2 44.5 

6 5.22 23.0 43.2 

7 5.60 22.9 41.7 

8 5.96 22.7 40.5 

9 6.15 22.7 39.5 

10 6.22 22.7 38.4 

11 6.30 22.9 37.5 

12 6.34 23.0 37.1 

13 6.39 23.4 36.7 

14 6.41 23.6 36.5 

15 6.45 24.0 36.5 

16 6.48 24.4 36.4 

17 6.49 25.0 36.4 

18 6.50 25.4 36.5 

19 6.52 25.7 36.6 

20 6.55 26.0 36.6 

25 6.60 28.3 38.0 

30 6.61 31.1 40.2 

DOWNWIND 

TWS Boatspeed AWA TWA 

4 3.81 73.7 139.8 

5 4.56 77.8 141.6 

6 5.32 81.9 143.3 

7 5.79 89.9 146.0 

8 6.26 97.9 148.7 

9 6.55 106.4 151.0 

10 6.84 114.9 153.2 

11 7.11 120.0 154.3 

12 7.38 125.1 155.3 

13 7.53 132.9 158.2 

14 7.68 140.7 161.1 

15 8.61 127.5 154.0 

16 9.55 113.8 146.8 

17 10.14 114.4 147.1 

18 10.73 115.0 147.5 

19 11.32 115.5 147.8 

20 11.92 116.1 148.1 

25 15.23 121.3 152.1 

30 17.41 131.4 156.7 

All targets supplied courtesy of Bruce Farr & Associates, Inc.,Farr International & Grant Spanhake, North Sails PRG


WORLDWIDE SALES & SERVICE 

At North Sails, we view each sail purchase as the beginning of a long and 

rewarding relationship. We base this expectation on a strong service 

commitment that includes preventive maintenance, sound advice, education 

and expert repairs. Your nearby North loft offers a wide range of services 

including... 

annual checkover sail tune-up educational 

sail washing retrofitting resources 

winter storage seminars 

North Sails is a network of over 100 lofts in 28 countries around the world. 

Each offers knowledgeable, friendly, personal sales and service. Our size and 

worldwide reach also means North has the world’s most expansive sailmaking 

database. It would be hard to find a sailboat for which we cannot make a fast, 

durable and long lasting sail. 

North Sails Lofts 

United States 

Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 770-945-2800 

Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508-778-6550 

Carolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252-728-7481 

Channel Islands . . . . . . . . . . 805-984-8100 

Chesapeake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410-269-5662 

Colorado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303-694-2345 

Detroit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 810-776-1330 

East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203-877-7621 

Ft. Lauderdale . . . . . . . . . . . . 954-522-8840 

Gulf Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727-898-1123 

Hampton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 757-722-4000 

Hawaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 808-591-9192 

Huntington Beach . . . . . . . . . 714-898-1234 

Long Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 631-673-5700 

Marina Del Rey . . . . . . . . . . . 310-827-8888 

Midwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 773-489-1308 

New Jersey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 732-528-8899 

New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504-831-1775 

Newport Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 949-642-7238 

Northeast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 978-745-1400 

One-Design East . . . . . . . . . . 203-877-7627 

One-Design Central . . . . . . . 614-418-9410 

One-Design Chesapeake . . . . 410-269-5662 

One-Design West . . . . . . . . . 619-226-1415 

One-Design Zenda. . . . . . . . . 262-275-9728 

Oregon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503-282-4282 

Puerto Rico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 787-863-3761 

Rhode Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401-683-7997 

San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619-224-2424 

San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . . . 510-522-5373 

Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206-632-5753 

South Carolina . . . . . . . . . . . 843-744-7245 

Texas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281-334-7559 

Vermilion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440-967-9576 

Canada 

Atlantic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 902-634-3343 

Toronto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416-259-9644 

Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604-271-2111 

Quebec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514-748-8368 

Europe 

Austria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43-7666 7997 

Benelux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32-3-325 67 20 

Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45-39-20 40 90 

Espana (Pontevedre) . . . . . 34-98-654-8132 

Espana (Palma) . . . . . . . . . . 34-71-725-752 

Finland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35-82-247 10 00 

France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33-297-53 78 58 

France-Mediteranee . . . . . . 33-493-36 66 17 

Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49-40-745 77 78 

Germany-Bodensee . . . . . . . 49-7543-16 89 

Greece . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-1-417-4669 

Italy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-0185-3526 

Norway-West . . . . . . . . . . . 47-66-79 89 14 

Norway East One-Design . . . 47-67-53 77 29 

Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46-8-765 15 30 

Sweden-Gothenberg . . . . . . 46-31-29 11 52 

Sweden-Kalmar . . . . . . . . 46-480-41 12 99 

Sweden-Malmö . . . . . . . . . . 46-4-015 4101 

Switzerland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412-278-23222 

Switzerland (Schweitz) . . . . . 417-168-68525 

Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-212-696-99 15 

UK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44-2380-453109 

UK One-Design . . . . . . . 44-1703-45 52 20 

International 

Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . 54-1-147-250200 

Australia-Melbourne . . . . . . 613-953-40363 

Australia-Sydney . . . . . . . . . 612-999-75966 

Brazil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55-12-472-2607 

Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56-32-970-504 

Guadeloupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590-908044 

Japan (Kanagawa) . . . . . . . 81-45-770-5666 

Japan (Kansai) . . . . . . . . . 81-79-826-7771 

New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . 649-359-5999 

South Africa, Capetown . . 27-21-511-2154 

South Africa, Durban . . . . . 27-31-332-3624 

28

Mumm 30 Tuning Guide - L-36 Fleet

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