Converting a Martha's Windowpane Shirt to a Jacket ... - Martha Pullen

Converting a Martha’s Windowpane Shirt to a Jacket
By: Missy Billingsley
Supplies:
Windowpane shirt
1-3/4 yards rayon lace L-V10 for hem (largest size)
2 yards rayon lace L-V9 for sleeves and collar
Embroidery designs about 3-3/4 inch or smaller
(I used designs from Martha Pullen Zundt cd’s 1-5, 7 and 8)
Thread for embroideries
Stabilizer for embroideries
Embroidery designs of choice
Various Martha Pullen Zundt embroideries were used on the black / ivory shirt
that is shown. Measure the windowpanes and your designs should fit inside the
openings. Designs about 3-3/4 inches would be a great size for most of the front
windowpanes but measure your windowpanes to make sure your chosen designs
will fit your panes. The panes toward the seams will most likely be more narrow
than the other panes.
1. Wash and dry your windowpane shirt as it will be washed in the future. Try on
the shirt to determine the length of the hem and sleeves or use the
measurements given below.
2. Press the shirt to remove excess wrinkles. Fold shirt in half with the
windowpanes facing out. Align and match the side seams and the windowpane
lines across the front opening of the shirt. Pin layers together to prevent shifting.
Line up the sleeves at the same time, pin together matching the cuffs and under
arm seams.

3. Measure 1 inch from the lower edge of the side seam and draw a line straight
across the bottom of the shirt. Cut along this line with a rotary cutter. This will
give a straight hem along the bottom of the shirt. If you have determined a
particular length for your shirt, cut to that length.
4. Measure from the inside edge of the cuff 6 inches draw a line and cut off with
a rotary cutter. If you have measured a particular length for your sleeve, cut to
the length you have determined.

5. Your shirt should now have shorter sleeves and a straight hem.
6. If you have a serger, serge (clean finish) each sleeve edge and along the shirt
bottom. Turn up a 1/2-inch hem and stitch in place by machine. If you do not
have a serger, turn up 1/4 inch and 1/4 inch again. Stitch in place.
7. Thread the sewing machine with thread to match the lace in the needle and
thread to match the shirt in the bobbin. Place top, straight edge of the wide lace
on or just above the previously stitched hem. Zigzag (L=1.4-1.6, W= 2.5-3.0)
the lace to the hem turning under the ends of the lace at the front edge of the
shirt.

8. Starting at the underarm seam, attach the narrow lace to the sleeves
overlapping the ends just a bit to cover the raw edges of lace. Place it on top or
just above the previously stitched hem.
9. Pin narrow lace to the edge of the collar by placing the lace on top of the
seam lines already there. Turn under the lace at the beginning/end and miter
lace at the points of the collar. Make sure you have plenty of lace in the miter so
that the lace does not “cup” or curl.
10. Add embroidery designs of your choice on front and back or create a jacket
similar to the one shown. Add hot fix crystals or pearls for a little sparkle and
glitz.
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Designs:
Back of jacket
1- MP Zundt 04 204066 Royal Purple Petals
2- MP Zundt 07 206006 Rose with Buds Spray
3- MP Zundt 04 204061 Delicate Landing – Butterfly only
4- MP Zundt 04 204062 Wings of Grace – Butterfly only
Front of jacket:
1- MP Zundt 02 202218 Bow Bouquet
2- MP Zundt 07 206006 Rose with Buds Spray
3- MP Zundt 08 206330 Rose Bouquet
4- MP Zundt 01 242208 Two Roses
5- MP Zundt 05 204257 Pastel Floral
6- MP Zundt 02 2023125 Flowers on a Stem
7- MP Zundt 05 204260 Purple Rose
8- MP Zundt 05 204258 Gold Blossoms
9- MP Zundt 05 204259 Floral Spray
10- MP Zundt 03 203180 Bullion & Bow Swirl
11- MP Zundt 02 202220 Pink Rose
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12- MP Zundt 08 206339 Rose Motif