Determining your sewing thread requirements - AMANN Group

Determining your
sewing thread
requirements
Service & Technik
Information for the sewing industry

Determining thread demand
Determining the thread demand is very important and
should not be roughly estimated. The better you calculate
the thread demand, the more you can avoid keeping too
much stock on hand. In this way determining the exact
calculation of thread demand can directly influence a
decrease in costs.
An effective system to calculate this thread demand can
vary according to the:
2
product group
product design
process of product
batch size
the organisation within the company
and many other factors require different calculation
instruments and processes. In order to offer the suitable
solution for each and every garment manufacturer,
AMANN has developed various calculation aids in the
last few years – in close cooperation with the garment
industry. This brochure offers an overview of the available
calculation methods and affords a detailed requirements
table for the most important stitch types – a reference
guide for each thread calculation.
The basis of each thread demand calculation is the
determination of the stitch type and the sewing parameter.
With this result we can determine the thread demand by
multiplying the seam length with the given thread demand
value. It is a good idea to subdivide into needle, bobbin
and, when needed, cover thread categories, in order to
allow for the various layouts of the individual thread
systems in the disposition.
Factors of influence on the thread demand
The thread demand is dependant on numerous factors.
The thread demand data in the overview tables in this
brochure (p. 4 – 8) are based on these parameters used
in practice:
Stitch depth: 4 stitches/cm
Fabric weight: 1,0 mm
(at two layers of fabric)
Seam width: see table data
Seam length: 1 metre
Service & Technology
The illustrated results in the thread demand per stitch type
table were arrived at by finishing, undoing and measuring
sample seams under the above-mentioned AMANN
sewing technique conditions.
The influence of stitch density
The stitch density has a great influence on thread demand,
in particular in stitch types with cross-directional threads
(zigzag, blanket stitching, and cover stitching). An increase
of stitch density from 4 to 6 stitches/cm with the lockstitch
(stitch type 301) leads, for example, to an increased
thread demand of about 15%. With the 2 needle covering
chainstitch (stitch type 602) thread demand rises with the
same increase of stitch density to 35%. This must be taken
into consideration during calculation in order to make
sure to avoid having not enough stock on hand with the
resulting costly subsequent deliveries.
AMANN has researched the influence of stitch densities
on the most important stitch types. The results can be
requested at your convenience in AMANN Technical
Sewing Service.
The influence of stitch density on thread demand for
stitch type 301 and 401
Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam)
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
stitch type 401 (double chainstitch)
stitch type 301 (double lockstitch)
2 3 4 5 6 7
Stitch density (stitches / cm)

The influence of fabric weight
A change in fabric weight also has a great effect on the
thread demand where, besides a change in overall thread
demand, the ratio between needle and bobbin threads
could shift. With exception of the double lockstitch – and
presuming an ideal distribution – all stitch types whose
chains lie not within but outside the fabric, increase their
percentage of needle and bobbin threads with increasing
fabric weight. With the double chainstitch only the needle
thread demand increases with increasing fabric weight,
whereas the bobbin thread demand remains constant.
The influence of fabric weight on thread demand using
the stitch type 401 (double chainstitch) as an example
Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam)
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Bobbin thread demand
Total thread demand
All-inclusive calculation
Basic thread demand
1 2 3 4 5 6
Fabric weight (in millimetres)
1. Using values arrived at in practice
as a basis
2. Using a model catalogue as a guide,
for example the AMANN Sewing
Thread Inventory Planner
Developing thread demand
The influence of tension on stitches
The thread tension will alter the thread demand value
according to setting. This can change the ratio between
needle, bobbin and, if applicable, cover thread. It can
also greatly influence the amount of the overall thread
demand. In practice, great fluctuations in the ratio between
the threads as well as in the overall thread demand have
been noticed especially in stitch types 500 and 600. This
may also be due to the fact that in practice an ideal
distribution of threads does not always prevail.
This is to be allowed for should the parameters thread
tension, stitch density, fabric weight or seam widths in the
calculation not match the data in this brochure. Missing
demand values for seams that have been developed
under other sewing parameters should be determined by
practical research methods, this means by undoing stitches
and measuring them.
The thread demand values in the tables are net values,
meaning that the thread demand relates exclusively to a
one meter long sewn seam. The thread demand for
starting and ending a seam, changing threads, embroidering,
chain stitching, etc. has not been allowed for.
In order to establish a sufficient thread demand calculation,
a thread allowance must be added to the net calculation
result. Through our experience this allowance to be added
must lie between 15 and 25 % of the end net calculation.
This allowance takes fluctuations resulting from the
respective degree of size and other influences of production
and methods into consideration.
Individual calculation
1. Without aid
2. Using the module system of the
AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory
Planner
3. With software support
(AMANN NBE program)
3

AMANN sewing thread requirement tables
Single-thread
chainstitch
Single-thread
blindstitch
Single-thread
blindstitch
Lockstitch
(Hand stitch
type)
Stitch Type
101
103
105
209
Service & Technology
Seam Construction Seam Appearance
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
Top Bottom
NF
NF
NF
NF
Seam
Width
Stitches
mm (per cm)
2 NF: 3,80 m
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam
–
–
–
–
2
2
4
Thread
Required
per 1m of seam
NF: 4,50 m
%
100 %
100 %
NF: 4,50 m 100 %
NF: 1,40 m 100 %
4

Double
lockstitch
Double
lockstitch
Zigzag
Double
lockstitch
Multi-stitch
Zigzag
Double
chainstitch
Double
chainstitch
Zigzag
Stitch Type
301
304
321
404
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam
Service & Technology
Seam Construction Seam Appearance
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
Top Bottom
GF
NF
GF
NF
GF 5
NF
NF
401 – 4
GF
NF
GF
Seam
Width
Stitches
mm (per cm)
–
8
3
4
4
18
4
Thread
Required
per 1m of seam
NF: 1,40 m
GF: 1,40 m
2,80 m
NF: 2,70 m
GF: 2,70 m
5,40 m
NF: 6,50 m
GF: 6,50 m
13,00 m
NF: 1,70 m
GF: 3,10 m
4,80 m
NF: 2,40 m
GF: 4,40 m
6,80 m
%
50 %
50 %
100 %
50 %
50 %
100 %
50 %
50 %
100 %
35 %
65 %
100 %
35 %
65 %
100 %
5

Two-needle
double chainstitch
with common looper
Three-needle
double chainstitch
with common looper
Two-times
double
chainstitch
with cover thread
Two-thread
overedge stitch
Interlaced at
needle hole
Stitch Type
Single-thread
overedge stitch
406
407
408
502
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam
Service & Technology
Seam Construction Seam Appearance
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
Top Bottom
LF
NF
GF
NF
NF
NF
NF
GF
6
6
4
4
4
4
NF: 3,40 m
GF: 8,40 m
11,80 m
NF: 5,10 m
GF: 11,60 m
16,70 m
501 7 4 NF: 16,40 m 100 %
NF
NF
GF
NF 5
NF
GF
GF
Seam
Width
Stitches
mm (per cm)
5
Thread
Required
per 1m of seam
NF: 3,40 m
GF: 6,20 m
LF: 5,80 m
15,40 m
NF: 1,70 m
GF: 10,00 m
11,70 m
%
29 %
71 %
100 %
30 %
70 %
100 %
22 %
40 %
38 %
100 %
15 %
85 %
100 %
6

Two-thread
overedge
stitch
Interlaced on edge
Three-thread
overedge
stitch
Interlaced at
needle hole
Three-thread
overedge
stitch
Interlaced on edge
Four-thread
overedge
stitch (Mock safety
stitch) Interlaced at
needle hole
Four-thread
overedge
stitch
Interlaced at
needle hole
Stitch Type
503
504
505
514
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam
Service & Technology
Seam Construction Seam Appearance
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
Top Bottom
NF
NF
NF
NF
NF
GF
GF
GF
GF
GF
512 GF
6 4
GF
NF
NF
GF 6
GF
Seam
Width
Stitches
mm (per cm)
5
5
5
4
4
4
4
Thread
Required
per 1m of seam
NF: 6,70 m
GF: 5,00 m
11,70 m
NF: 1,70 m
GF: 12,10 m
13,80 m
NF: 6,30 m
GF: 7,50 m
13,80 m
NF: 3,40 m
GF: 12,90 m
16,30 m
NF: 3,40 m
GF: 13,70 m
17,10 m
%
57 %
43 %
100 %
12 %
88 %
100 %
46 %
54 %
100 %
21 %
79 %
100 %
20 %
80 %
100 %
7

Two-needle
covering
chain-stitch
with cover thread
Three-needle
covering
chain-stitch
with cover thread
Four-needle
covering
chain-stitch
with cover thread
Seam
Operation
Circular tack
Single-thread
chainstitch
Zigzag
Bartack
Double lockstitch
Zigzag
Stitch Type
602
605
607
Stitch Type
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
304
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam
Service & Technology
Seam Construction Seam Appearance
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
Top Bottom
LF
LF
NF
NF
GF
NF
NF
NF
GF
LF
NF
NF
NF
NF
GF
Seam Appearance Type
NF
mm
107 2 7 NF: 0,07 m 100 %
12
Seam
Width
Stitches
mm (per cm)
6
6
6
42
4
4
4
No. of
Stitches
Thread
Required
per 1m of seam
NF: 3,40 m
GF: 8,40 m
LF: 5,10 m
16,90 m
NF: 5,10 m
GF: 11,60 m
LF: 5,80 m
22,50 m
NF: 6,80 m
GF: 14,80 m
LF: 5,80 m
27,40 m
Thread
Required
per unit
NF: 0,30 m
GF: 0,20 m
0,50 m
%
20 %
50 %
30 %
100 %
23 %
52 %
25 %
100 %
25 %
54 %
21 %
100 %
%
60 %
40 %
100 %
8

Seam
Operation
Lingerie
buttonhole
Single-thread
chainstitch
Zigzag
Lingerie
buttonhole
Double lockstitch
Zigzag
Eyelet
buttonhole
without bartack
Double chainstitch
Zigzag
Sewing on
button Lingerie
Single-thread
chainstitch without
button shank
Sewing on
button
Outerwear
Single-thread
chainstitch with
button shank
Sewing on
button
Double lockstitch
Zigzag
ISO 4915
DIN 61400
107
304
404
107
304
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam
Service & Technology
Seam Appearance Type
mm
16
18
30
90
160
96
NF: 0,50 m 100 %
NF: 0,10 m
GF: 0,85 m
0,95 m
NF: 0,80 m
GF: 0,20 m
1,00 m
NF: 0,10 m
GF: 0,05 m
0,15 m
NF: 0,20 m
GF: 0,10 m
0,30 m
10 %
90 %
100 %
80 %
20 %
100 %
2-hole 7 NF: 0,20 m 100 %
4-hole 14 NF: 0,40 m 100 %
107 4-hole 21 NF: 0,60 m 100 %
2-hole
4-hole
No. of
Stitches
6
12
Thread
Required
per unit
%
65 %
35 %
100 %
65 %
35 %
100 %
9

Empirical data for roughly calculating the amount of thread required
The table below is intended as a guide. The thread consumption figures it contains are based on fashionable and
qualitative characteristics of the individual garments listed. This means that standard thread amounts indicated are not
arithmetical mean values derived from the maximum and minimum values shown in the Range of Variations column.
They already include allowances for the beginning and end of seams as well as colour changes.
10
Men’s and
Boys’ wear
Business suit trousers/
corduroy jeans
Blue denim jeans
Sackcoat, blazer
Waistcoat
Winter coat
Poplin coat
Shorts
Smock
Work suit (two-piece)
Bib slacks
Anorak, blouson
Bathing/dressing gown
Tracksuit
Underwear
Lingerie
Men’s dress shirt (long-sleeved)
Men’s undershirt, T shirt
Ladie’s panties, Men’s briefs
Panty girdle
Bra
Pyjama
Night gown
Standard
Amount
(m)
300
280
190
70
265
265
90
255
375
225
210
210
200
Standard
Amount
(m)
125
80
100
100
55
200
150
Range of
Variation
(m)
250 – 350
230 – 370
170 – 240
57 – 80
250 – 285
250 – 285
80 – 100
230 – 285
345 – 400
200 – 250
170 – 250
170 – 250
170 – 250
Range of
Variation
(m)
115 – 150
70 – 90
80 – 100
80 – 120
40 – 80
170 – 200
130 – 190
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Overlocking Seams
(m)
170
130
45
–
60
40
50
90
185
115
40
110
120
Overlocking Seams
(m)
80
65
80
80
20
120
100
Distribution
Distribution
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)
130
150
145
70
205
225
40
165
190
110
170
100
80
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)
45
15
20
20
35
80
50

Ladies’ wear
Dress (unlined)
Dress (lined)
Skirt (unlined)
Skirt (lined)
Jacket
Costume (two-piece)
Shoes
Slacks
Poplin coat
Winter coat
Smock
Blouse
Bathing suit
Pyjama suit
Men’s shoes (elegant)
Men’s shoes (casual)
Men’s boots
Ladies’ shoes (elegant)
Ladies’ shoes (casual)
Ladies’ boots
Standard
Amount
(m)
150
195
110
170
200
400
200
285
285
225
120
120
200
Standard
Amount
(m)
21
26
33
26
26
33
Range of
Variation
(m)
125 – 180
160 – 255
90 – 140
150 – 200
170 – 260
310 – 490
180 – 240
250 – 370
250 – 370
170 – 280
100 – 150
100 – 140
170 – 250
Range of
Variation
(m)
17 – 28
23 – 30
28 – 40
23 – 30
23 – 30
25 – 45
Overlocking Seams
(m)
90
100
75
125
60
135
150
45
45
75
55
70
100
Overlocking Seams
(m)
–
–
–
–
–
–
Distribution
Distribution
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)
60
95
35
45
140
265
50
240
240
150
65
50
100
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)
21
26
33
26
26
33
11

Determining thread demand with the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner
The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is an especially
effective way to arrive at a calculation. For the most
important product groups in Men’s and Boys’ wear and
Ladies’ wear the thread demand values can be quickly
and easily taken from a folder without much effort. The
Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is built on a basis of
illustrations of models and model elements and their
respective thread demand values. There are two
different ways to use this process for your calculation :
Determining the thread demand by
using the model illustrations
With the aid of
12
the illustration
the description of different customary processes
the illustration
detailed additional information
the respective model presented in a product group is
clearly described. When the model in the Sewing Thread
Inventory Planner matches the garment to be calculated
then the user can record the respective thread demand
at a glance and adopt the value into his calculation. This
is the simplest and fastest method to determine the thread
amount in a garment.
According to product group, up to 5 different model
variations are presented, meaning a large diversity of
variations creating excellent preconditions for the calculation
process. For some models there are up to 3 customary
processes calculated that are used in practice – also in
this regard the chances are great that “his” model may
be found in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner.
Service & Technology
Determining the thread demand by
using the module method
Using the elemental models for all important product
groups and default modules as a guide, individual models
can be put together and calculated.
The elemental model contains the
seam positions that are required
for the finishing of the respective
garment piece. This means details
specific to the model like pockets
or seam finishes of trousers etc.,
are not calculated because these
could be designed in every possible
variation. In the elemental model
the customary process types used
in practice are given under the
heading “Variations”.
The variations that are the basis
of the calculation define the types
of seams and the stitch types used
for them and the finishing processes for the most important
seam positions.
In the category “Modules” functional and decorative
model elements are presented to be used by the garment
manufacturer to create a basis
model.
Belonging to this, amongst
others, is a multitude of
differentiating pocket solutions,
quilting and collar
designs. By adding the
specified thread demand
values for the building blocks
and the respective basis model
the sum for the total model
can be calculated.
A Sewing Thread Inventory
Plan-ner solely for the Ladies’
wear and Men’s and Boys’
wear is available. The following product groups can be
found in the folder:
Ladies’ wear
Blazers, blouses, trousers, jeans, polo shirts, skirts, T-shirts
Men’s and Boys’ wear
Suit Jackets, vests, trousers, shirts, denim shirts, jeans,
polo shirts, T-shirts
Sewing Sewing Thread Thread
Inventory Inventory Planner Planner
Ladies’ Ladies’ wear/Men’s wear/Men’s and and
Boys’ Boys’ wear, wear, german german or english: english:
39,– 39,– Euro Euro

Determining thread demand with the NBE program
The NBE program is a professional software solution to
support the calculation of thread demand. The NBE
program can, considering all the important parameters
that influence thread demand, create one exact thread
demand calculation per sewing operation. You just have
to enter the required seam positions that are to be
calculated and the respective parameters. The calculation
and exact evaluation is taken care of by the NBE program.
The result is a detailed work plan and thread demand
overview giving the required consumption for the thread
article to be used and can be applied as a work basis
directly out of the disposition.
The NBE program was developed in close association
with the garment industry, therefore distinguishing itself
from other programs for its practice-oriented and userfriendly
principle. The advantages of determining thread
demand by using a computer program shows in the
flexible usability of the great amount of data calculated
by entering the various models and modules. With the
NBE program a complicated and quick alteration of
models is made possible, as well as the simple putting
together of new models by adding modules and base
models. This type of calculation is particularly efficient
and precise at the same time.
To guarantee an optimal calculation, the NBE program
fulfils the following requirements:
Networking capability
Based on well-known software
(Microsoft Access 2000)
Designed for user-friendliness
Simple, clearly organized system
Visual presentation (models, stitch types)
International usability
(Language choice German and English)
Flexibility (product diversity, individual
user’s needs)
It is possible to integrate the NBE program into existing
PDM solutions. Examples are available. Individual –
according to existing software in the company – clarification
of the integration or linkage should be possible. The
AMANN Technical Sewing Service is happy to be of
assistance.
The NBE program is available in the German and English
language. The CD-ROM comes with a detailed manual.
NBE NBE program program
german german or or english: english:
95,– 95,– Euro Euro
13

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14
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and leather goods
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Guidelines for sewing of outerwear, underwear, lingerie, shirts,
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Service & Technology
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The sewability of elastic fabric 100541

An overview of AMANN thread products
An overview of ACKERMANN embroidery threads
Service
We can advise you in all your questions
about sewing and processing technology.
Just give us a call. Telephone +49 (7143) 277-250
15

DIN EN ISO 9001 : 2000
Zertifikat: 09 100 6148
Certificate No.: 01 104 000462
No. 93.0.4233
Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG
Hauptstraße 1
D-74357 Bönnigheim
Telephone +49 (7143) 277-250
Telefax +49 (7143) 277-460
nt@amann.com
www.amann.com
100023
GB0PDF034
All facts and figures are intended exclusively for your information.
All recommendations presuppose adjustment of the sewing conditions to the appropriate sewing yarn.