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Beyond Mitered Joinery - Two New Notches for Log Trusses and ...

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<strong>Beyond</strong> <strong>Mitered</strong> <strong>Joinery</strong> - <strong>Two</strong> <strong>New</strong> <strong>Notches</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Log</strong> <strong>Trusses</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Log</strong> Post & Beam<br />

Instructor: Robert W. Chambers<br />

April 4th, 8-5<br />

In this full-day workshop we will explore two new ideas <strong>for</strong> natural log joinery. One joint is based on “mitered”<br />

joinery, <strong>and</strong> the other joint I have not seen be<strong>for</strong>e. The new joints could be used <strong>for</strong> log post-<strong>and</strong>-beam <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>for</strong> log trusses. We may find some other applications, too. We will explore as we go.<br />

We will also explore a new way to layout a truss, <strong>and</strong> mark the joints. The new method saves time <strong>and</strong> uses<br />

very little equipment. No lofting deck is needed.<br />

We’ll start in the classroom, <strong>and</strong> then go outside <strong>for</strong> h<strong>and</strong>s-on work with logs, scribers, <strong>and</strong> lasers. We will<br />

cut a few joints, too.<br />

Top left: mitered joint<br />

Above: scribed joint <strong>and</strong> mitered<br />

joint<br />

Left: lasers <strong>and</strong> plumb bob to<br />

mark joints<br />

You Should Bring:<br />

Safety gear (eyes <strong>and</strong> ears)<br />

Razor knife, or chisel <strong>and</strong> mallet<br />

12” straightedge <strong>and</strong>/or 12” flexy ruler<br />

4-1/2” or 5” grinder/s<strong>and</strong>er & discs<br />

Not Required, but Useful:<br />

Electric chainsaw<br />

Circular saw<br />

Plumb bob<br />

Mallet & heavy 1-1/2” framing chisel<br />

Slick or curved scarf slick<br />

Drawknife


ILBA 2013 PRE-CONFERENCE REGISTRATION FORM<br />

April 4th 2013<br />

Prescott Resort <strong>and</strong> Conference Center<br />

1500 State Route 69 -- Prescott, AZ 86301<br />

YOUR NAME: ________________________________________________________________________<br />

COMPANY : ______________________________________________________________________<br />

ADDRESS: ________________________________________________________________________________<br />

TELEPHONE / CELL NUMBER: ________________________________<br />

E-MAIL ADDRESS: _________________________________________________<br />

<strong>Beyond</strong> <strong>Mitered</strong> <strong>Joinery</strong> - <strong>Two</strong> <strong>New</strong> <strong>Notches</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Log</strong> <strong>Trusses</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Log</strong> Post & Beam<br />

By Robert W. Chambers<br />

In this full-day workshop we will explore two new ideas <strong>for</strong> natural log joinery. One joint is based on “mitered” joinery, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

other joint I have not seen be<strong>for</strong>e. The new joints could be used <strong>for</strong> log post-<strong>and</strong>-beam <strong>and</strong> <strong>for</strong> log trusses. We may find some<br />

other applications, too. We will explore as we go.<br />

We’ll start in the classroom, <strong>and</strong> then go outside <strong>for</strong> h<strong>and</strong>s-on work with logs, scribers, <strong>and</strong> lasers. We will cut a few joints, too.<br />

<strong>New</strong> Joint One<br />

I have been using “mitered” log joinery <strong>for</strong> years, after first learning it from Ed Shure (he calls it “treen” joinery -- meaning “it<br />

looks like a tree”). The <strong>Mitered</strong> Truss chapter of my book teaches Ed’s method—which involves drawing a full-size truss on a<br />

deck floor, <strong>and</strong> then lofting those lines up onto logs. Each log is placed one at a time into position over its lines, where the edges<br />

of its joints are then marked.<br />

<strong>Mitered</strong> joinery, as we’ve used it up until now, draws straight lines that only approximately match what a scribed, curved, fit<br />

would look like. Our new mitered lines will much more closely match the shape of a scribed line. There is a very cool trick that<br />

makes this work. The result: better looking fits.<br />

I’ve often taught log builders how to build mitered log trusses, <strong>and</strong> they have told me they have three problems:<br />

• They don’t have a large, level, smooth, strong, flat deck to loft the logs;<br />

• <strong>Mitered</strong> joints don’t always look good—<strong>for</strong> example, the rafter-tail to tie-beam joint often needs a lot of drawknife<br />

work to make the edges of the joinery match each other;<br />

• It’s a bit slow because drawing the lofting lines on the deck is a little fussy, <strong>and</strong> the logs can only be marked (lofted)<br />

one at a time.<br />

My method helps solve all three issues. My new method does not need a layout deck, <strong>and</strong> it does not use a full-size drawing of<br />

the truss. We will not be lofting. And our joints will not need as much ‘cleaning up‘ — they will fit better first time.<br />

We will: snap log centerlines, physically stack logs on top of each other, use a scriber to mark where the log surfaces intersect,<br />

<strong>and</strong> then use a laser-line projector to draw the joint cut-lines. If all goes well, we’ll mark all the logs in just one stacked set-up (a<br />

big savings in time), <strong>and</strong> then spread the logs out to cut the joints.<br />

<strong>New</strong> Joint <strong>Two</strong><br />

This joint looks exactly like a scribed joint. But inside the joint, instead of one log being coped, there are big surfaces on both<br />

logs. The benefits this has over scribed-<strong>and</strong>-coped log joinery: this joint will stay tighter over time as the logs shrink. And there<br />

are big strong surfaces hidden inside that the engineers will like. Plus it should be easy to cut. Templates supplied; you'll need<br />

your regular log building h<strong>and</strong> tools, chainsaw, layout tools <strong>and</strong> safety equipment.<br />

Workshop Fees (Payable to “ILBA”) $ 190.00<br />

Coffee breaks <strong>and</strong> a boxed lunch are included with this workshop<br />

You should arrange your own lodging directly with the Prescott Resort. Phone 1-800-967-4637 <strong>and</strong> ask <strong>for</strong> the<br />

International <strong>Log</strong> Builder Association room block, or the group booking code #G4563.<br />

Registration deadline is March 6th 2013. A deposit or credit card number will hold your reservation.<br />

Return this registration <strong>for</strong>m to Ann Miks, PO Box 775, Lumby, BC V0E 2G0<br />

Email: ann@logassociation.org Fax: 250-547-8775 or Phone: 250-547-8776 with any questions.<br />

Credit Card: Visa ______ MasterCard_______ AMEX _______<br />

Card number____________________________________________ ____________ Expiry Date

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