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ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO BOTSWANA Moremi & Chobe ...

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Leader: Brent Reed<br />

ORNITHOLIDAYS’ <strong><strong>TO</strong>UR</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>BOTSWANA</strong><br />

<strong>Moremi</strong> & <strong>Chobe</strong> Camping Tour<br />

18 October – 02 November 2008


19 October, 2008 – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve<br />

Overcast and cool. 25C<br />

ORNITHOLIDAYS’ <strong><strong>TO</strong>UR</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>BOTSWANA</strong><br />

<strong>Moremi</strong> & <strong>Chobe</strong> Camping Tour<br />

18 October – 02 November<br />

A Personal Diary<br />

It was a frustrating start to the trip for the four travellers who unbeknownst to me were fretting away in<br />

Johannesburg whilst I was making my way by road to the <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve where I was<br />

expecting to collect the party at the Xakanaxa Airstrip at midday. It was a cool, cloudy Sunday morning<br />

and having plenty of time on my hands I managed to get in a little birding en-route. The Mopane<br />

(Colophospermum mopane) woodlands produced the usual bird parties with Golden-breasted Bunting<br />

(Emberiza flaviventris), Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor), Southern Black Tit (Parus niger),<br />

Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) and the ubiquitous Fork-tailed Drongos (Dicrurus adsimilis)<br />

which are seen everywhere in virtually every habitat.<br />

Back to our intrepid travellers who were still waiting for their Air Botswana flight to get off the ground<br />

in Johannesburg. As it turned out there were three Air Botswana flights cancelled that day, our<br />

unfortunate friends managed to get to Gaberone and no further. After more frustrating delays it<br />

eventually became apparent that they would not be getting to Maun that day and had to spend the night<br />

at a hotel in Gaberone (Gabs) instead.<br />

20 October, 2008 – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve<br />

Clear sunny skies with daytime temperatures peaking around 36C<br />

I woke up to the sound of monkeys chattering madly in the<br />

trees above my tent, clearly something was up. Not having<br />

anything else to do I jumped into the cruiser and headed off<br />

in the direction that the monkeys were looking. After about<br />

15 minutes of driving back and forth, stopping and waiting<br />

for more information from the monkeys, eventually I spotted<br />

the hooves of a recently deceased impala sticking out from<br />

under a candle-pod acacia on the edge of the floodplain about<br />

100m from our camp. The Leopard which had caused the<br />

impala‟s demise was so well hidden that even from a few<br />

metres away I had to use my binoculars to be certain he was<br />

Yellow Canary (Serinus flaviventris)<br />

actually there. Julia, Sally, John and Gloria were still in Gabs<br />

at this time. Air Botswana have a faultless safety record but<br />

schedules don‟t seem to mean too much to them, however delays spanning 24 hours are almost unheard<br />

of. Eventually our intrepid travellers managed to board the plane bound for Maun and shortly after their<br />

arrival in the dusty frontier town they were met by Mike, my father, and shown to the charter plane<br />

which would ferry them into <strong>Moremi</strong>. My morning‟s birding was happily interrupted by a radio call<br />

from my father informing me that the guests had boarded their charter flight and were now on their way<br />

to <strong>Moremi</strong>. The only bird worth mentioning in as far as we did not see it again on the safari was a lone<br />

Caspian Plover (Charadrius asiaticus) seen on the Fourth Bridge floodplains.<br />

It was hot and bright at the Xakanaxa airstrip where the trusty little Cessna 206 touched down with the<br />

travel-weary gang on board. We had a quiet drive back to camp where we got everything packed into<br />

the tents before setting off for the afternoon drive.<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 1


Our first drive would prove to be one of our best for mammal sightings. Driving the upper floodplains<br />

of the Bodumatau/Fourth Bridge area we came across a Cheetah with two very young cubs that had<br />

been discovered by another safari vehicle, initially I had assumed that the vehicles were watching a<br />

Lion as another guide had told us that there was a big male sighted in the area that morning. It was a<br />

very pleasant surprise to come around the corner and find a mother Cheetah with two cubs so young<br />

they were still sporting the silvery mane of hair which makes them resemble little honey badgers. We<br />

ended our afternoon in the open plains at the top of the Bodumatau area where we had a flight of 16<br />

Black Egrets (Egretta ardesiaca) saluting us at the end of the day followed by the real bonus of two<br />

pairs of Marsh Owls (Asio capensis) which flew right by us as we sipped on our sun-downer drinks.<br />

The group was able to catch a glimpse of the Leopard hidden in the bush in front of the camp that I had<br />

seen earlier that morning. Our first evening in camp as a group was fairly noisy with a number of lions<br />

calling as well as a Hippo later at night which Sally heard munching grass in the vicinity of the camp.<br />

21 October – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve<br />

Overcast and warm in the morning getting hotter in the afternoon with<br />

temperatures peaking around 34C. A reasonably quiet morning started<br />

off with distant thunder and lightning which heralded the early rains but<br />

later dissipated leaving only a humid memory.<br />

We had a very large bull Elephant during our coffee break at Jessie‟s<br />

Pools which appeared soundlessly out the mopane behind us as we<br />

watched a variety of herons and egrets around the fringes of the tranquil<br />

water. A pair of African Hawk-eagles (Hieraaetus spilogaster) treated<br />

us to some good views as they hunted along the edge of a woodland<br />

whilst the Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris) squawked madly<br />

from their cover under the Croton bushes.<br />

The morning also brought our first real close-up of Wattled Cranes<br />

(Grus carunculatus) which we viewed in perfect light as they foraged<br />

along the sedge line of another vast Xakanaxa floodplain. Often cited as<br />

Yellow-billed Stork (Mycteria ibis) Africa‟s fastest antelope, the Tsessebe (Damaliscus lunatus) made its<br />

first appearance on our mammal list with a small herd not far from our<br />

camp. Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) and Burchell‟s Zebra (Equus quagga burchelii) were also<br />

seen around the Third Bridge area during our search for the mother Cheetah and her cubs which we had<br />

seen the previous day.<br />

After brunch in camp, those not indulging in a siesta did<br />

some camp birding and turned up, amongst others,<br />

Diderick Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius), Yellowbreasted<br />

Apalis (Apalis flavida), Black-collared Barbet<br />

(Lybius torquatus), Swamp Boubou (Laniarius bicolor)<br />

and African Yellow White-eye (Zosterops sengalensis).<br />

The afternoon brought massive deep-purple towers of<br />

cumulus cloud from the east but no rain resulted from the<br />

build-up and we had to settle for distant views of a few<br />

spectacular bolts of lightning.<br />

Our afternoon drive took us to the Xakanaxa boat station Double-banded Sandgrouse (Pterocles bicinctus)<br />

where we boarded a 16 foot aluminium boat for our<br />

exploration of the Xakanaxa Lediba (Setswana for lagoon), one of the permanent waterways of the<br />

Okavango Delta. We managed to get excellent face to face views of birds on a small heronry including<br />

Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus), Yellow-billed Stork (Mycteria ibis), Black-crowned Night-<br />

Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Reed Cormorant (Phalacrocorax africanus), African Darter (Anhinga<br />

rufa) and Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea). The heronries are perched on top of clusters of Water Fig<br />

(Ficus verruculosa), an aquatic species of fig which abounds in the larger lagoons of the Okavango<br />

Delta. These green islands form the perfect refuge for nesting birds as they are safe from all terrestrial<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 2


predators with the exception of snakes and it would be a very bold snake that makes an appearance in<br />

these colonies of watchful parents with their generally dagger-like bills. Whilst we viewed the heronry,<br />

two bull Elephants emerged from an adjacent channel and we were able to float alongside these grey<br />

giants as they fed and relaxed in the cool delta waters.<br />

We arrived back at the boat station about 30 minutes before sunset and headed off to one of my<br />

favourite sites for the Bat Hawk (Macheiramphus alcinus) along a section of woodland overlooking a<br />

large area of Miscanthus grass. On our way to the Bat Hawk site we passed through a flock of feeding<br />

Southern Carmine Bee-eaters (Merops rubicoides) which sailed back and forth right over our heads.<br />

The festival of carmine and blue colour was accompanied by the castanet-like clicking of over a<br />

hundred little beaks snapping shut on flying prey. Although we dipped on the Bat Hawk we did get<br />

some good views of a Grey Penduline-tit (Anthroscopus caroli) going in and out of its very unusual<br />

nest, these tiny little birds are often difficult to get onto but the fact that this one was nesting meant we<br />

had no trouble getting great scope views. A bird which I was surprised to miss here was the Whitebrowed<br />

Coucal (Centropus superciliosus) which is normally fairly reliable at this site and had been very<br />

vocal and visible on my last visit. After sundowners spent still scanning for the elusive Bat Hawk we<br />

returned to camp and managed to pick up Verreaux‟s Eagle-Owl (Bubo lacteus) and the tiny African<br />

Barred Owlet (Glaucidium capense).<br />

Back at camp the Swamp Nightjar (Caprimulgus natalensis) provided the backing vocals to another<br />

delicious meal prepared by Chris and his team in their bush kitchen.<br />

22 October – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve to Khwai Concession Area<br />

The weather today was a typical October day in Botswana, a hot sunny morning and midday followed<br />

by building clouds and humidity in the latter part of the afternoon, the mercury topped out around 38<br />

degrees today!<br />

Moving day! It was time to say goodbye to our little camp in Fourth Bridge and head east for our next<br />

camp along the Khwai river just outside the <strong>Moremi</strong>. We were awoken by the echoing roar of Lions just<br />

a few hundred metres from our camp, along with the half-light of dawn and the chorus of robins and<br />

francolins it made for memorable rising. The Batswana (citizens of Botswana) have a greeting in their<br />

language, Setswana, which goes, O tsogile sentle? (Did you wake up well?) to which the reply in this<br />

case would be Ee ke tsogile sentle! (Yes, I woke up well!).<br />

Gloria reported that she had seen a Spotted Hyena<br />

(Crocuta crocuta) in camp during the night and after<br />

a quick scout around I found the tracks of two<br />

hyenas. Their presence in camp was confirmed by<br />

Chris, Lops and Moses in the kitchen where the<br />

hyenas had spent the majority of their time trying to<br />

locate scraps left over from our dinner. During<br />

breakfast the Vervet Monkeys (Cercopithicus<br />

aethiops) moved into the Jackalberry tree (Diospyros<br />

mespilliformis) above our breakfast table and one<br />

individual very rudely began unleashing faecal<br />

Saddle-billed Stork (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis)<br />

bombs which meant we had to scatter in disarray<br />

with our coffee and cereal in hand. The camp staff<br />

quickly moved the table and no harm was done. A great mixed herd of Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes<br />

taurinus) and Burchell‟s Zebra were seen on the plains adjacent to the mopane woodlands on the<br />

Acacia Pan road. Our drive took us through a long stretch of mopane where the usual suspects were<br />

seen in amongst bird parties, these included White-crested Helmet-Shrike (Prionops plumatus),<br />

Arnott‟s Chat (Myrmecocichla arnoti), Brubru (Nilaus afer), Swallow-tailed Bee-eater (Merops<br />

hirundineus) and a frustrating Striped Kingfisher (Halcyon chelicuti) which called and called but must<br />

was never seen. I eventually concluded that it must have been calling from a hole and having a laugh at<br />

our expense. A binocular scan of a muddy expanse in the mopane where we were looking for Greater<br />

Painted-Snipe (Rostratula benghalensis) produced a pride of nine Lions instead. We drove around to<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 3


have a closer look and found a pride consisting of four adult females and some sub-adults, there were<br />

no males present and the Lions were doing what Lions are wont to do during the day, sleeping. Another<br />

scan for the snipes came up empty and we made our way onwards and eastwards towards the Khwai<br />

region. One of our stops produced two male Bennet‟s Woodpeckers (Campethera bennetti) chasing<br />

each other around the trunk of an old mopane and calling vigorously until the weaker of the two<br />

eventually gave up and turned tail for less contested territory. We left the park via the bridge over the<br />

River Khwai which demarcates the northern boundary of the <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve. Not far outside<br />

the park on an area known as Lechwe Plains we turned up a lone Temminck's Courser (Cursorius<br />

temminckii). Once outside the park and into the concession area we stopped alongside the river for<br />

lunch and a bit of a snooze. Chris had outdone himself with our picnic and soon we were lost in a<br />

satiated and somnolent trance along the Khwai River with only storks and Elephants for company.<br />

Our drive onward to our camp produced a sought-after Secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius) which<br />

Gloria commented “looks like Audrey Hepburn in Capri pants” and it did rather as it strutted along the<br />

moist Cyperus sedge-lines. This was rather unusual habitat for this stately bird which in Botswana is<br />

normally found in large semi-arid grasslands and not along rivers. We also found a number of Whitebacked<br />

Vultures (Gyps africanus) on nests in the tall Knobthorn trees (Acacia nigrescens) which are<br />

very common in the Khwai region. After arriving in our camp at Sable Alley we had time to get our<br />

things organised and spend some time gazing over the Sable Alley channel which is a small backwater<br />

which pushes up from the Khwai River in years of high flood.<br />

We went out again just before sunset to another site<br />

which sometimes produces the Bat Hawk but once<br />

again we were to dip on this species. On the way to<br />

our sundowner spot we manage to add Rufous-bellied<br />

Heron (Ardeola rufiventris) and Slaty Egret (Egretta<br />

vinaceigula), two Okavango specials, to our growing<br />

list. Once we stopped for sundowners we were<br />

treated to an amazing sighting of a clan of hyenas<br />

who trotted out of the bush and came to drink from a<br />

small pool about 20 feet from where we were<br />

standing. They came one by one, then two, then three<br />

Golden-breasted Bunting (Emberiza flaviventris)<br />

until there were nine hyenas scattered between the<br />

pool and a stretch of the river a little further away. They paid us absolutely no notice and things were<br />

fairly peaceful until suddenly one of the hyenas decided that one of their number had not paid her due<br />

respect and then pandemonium broke out as the clan picked on first one then another member. The<br />

howling, screeching, laughing, yipping medley of calls that resonated along the river was almost<br />

overwhelming. John managed to record some of the sound on his MP3 recorder although it was difficult<br />

to capture the full spine-tingling atmosphere of the feet striking earth as they charged back and forth<br />

along the river howling and baying as they went. Sally desperately tried to make herself one with the<br />

vehicle during this outburst and despite my assurances that we were perfectly safe at the vehicle Sally<br />

remained sceptical. After a few minutes the mayhem ceased, the hyenas melted back into the bush from<br />

whence they had come and peace returned to the river. Sally gave a wry smile and took another swig of<br />

fortifying gin & tonic. Our night drive back to camp was quiet but we did manage to get another very<br />

good look at Verreaux‟s Eagle Owl and had a wonderful sighting of Southern White-faced Scops-Owl<br />

(Ptilopsis granti).<br />

23 October – Khwai Concession Area<br />

Cumulus continued to build but there was not much humidity and this made the 35+ degrees bearable,<br />

the occasional cloud offering relief from the searing sun.<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 4


Gabar Goshawk (Melierax gabar)<br />

Lions greeted the dawn once again, this time from<br />

the west of our camp. We could hear their deep,<br />

throaty roaring reverberating through our tents as the<br />

staff poured warm water into the stand basins<br />

outside our canvas castles. Breakfast was<br />

accompanied by a pair of Little Sparrowhawks<br />

(Accipiter minullus) mobbing a couple of Vervet<br />

monkeys in the leadwood trees (Combertum<br />

imberbe) above our camp. In the distance we could<br />

hear the hooting of a pair of Verreaux‟s Eagle Owls<br />

and all around the camp was the constant wakkawakka<br />

calling of the Red-billed Hornbills (Tockus<br />

erythrorhynchus).<br />

First up on our morning drive was a pair of Bearded Woodpeckers (Dendropicus namaquus), the male<br />

was following the female with clear intentions but the female was having none of it and kept on eluding<br />

his best efforts to waylay her. We stopped for tea at a bend on the Khwai River where a pod of Hippo<br />

make their home. Here we were entertained by the snorting and chortling of these unlikely beasts whilst<br />

we picked out Water Thick-knees (Burhinus vermiculatus) which were cleverly disguised as lumps of<br />

elephant dung amongst a field of the same. Etymologically these birds have had a rough time of it, their<br />

current name of Thick-knee replaces the old name, Dikkop, an Afrikaans word meaning „thick head‟ –<br />

from thick heads to thick knees. We left our fat hippos and thick knees and were several minutes down<br />

the road when Gloria enquired as to the whereabouts of my spotting scope – I had left it back at Hippo<br />

Hollow. We made a smooth but urgent U-turn and headed back to the tea spot where thankfully it still<br />

stood atop the tripod as yet unmolested by the wildlife. We had an urgent appointment this morning, the<br />

missing Pimms was due to land at the Khwai airstrip on A2-FMD (or Alpha 2 – Fox Mike Delta), a<br />

Cessna 206 which had been dispatched from Maun carrying this precious cargo. On our way to the<br />

airstrip we met another guide from Wilderness Safaris who told us they had seen Wild Dogs (Lycaon<br />

pictus) not far from the airstrip. We headed over towards the airstrip where the dogs had been seen and<br />

were lucky to find the dogs lying quite a way from the road under a large Toothbrush bush (Diospyros<br />

lyciodes), one of the pack of seven had gone to the river to drink and it was thanks to him that we saw<br />

where the rest of the pack were lying flat out on the ground. Whilst watching the dogs we were visited<br />

by a Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor) and a Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera abingoni).<br />

Back at camp over brunch we mused how lucky Sally was to have seen Wild Dogs on her first visit to<br />

Botswana, Julia had to travel with us ten times before eventually setting eyes on these nomadic beasties.<br />

Our afternoon drive afforded some excellent views of a Malachite Kingfisher (Alcedo cristata) feeding<br />

a fledgling in the sedge line along the river. Around this time we also realised that the Pimms had been<br />

flown in but no lemonade – another radio call to the office was made to arrange for a case of lemonade<br />

to be flown in the following morning. Across the river we saw what was to be our first and only Steppe<br />

Buzzard (Buteo vulpinus) for the safari, this pioneering individual seemed to be patiently waiting for a<br />

termite emergence which, judging by the isolated showers falling around us, would not be far off. We<br />

managed to escape the majority of the rain and were only subjected to a light drizzle just as we left<br />

camp.<br />

Just before our stop for sundowners we came across a couple of hyena pups outside a den on one of the<br />

back roads through the western mopane. Our night drive produced none of the Bronze-winged Coursers<br />

(Rhinoptilus chalcopterus) which we had hoped for in the mopane but we did get several views of<br />

flying nightjars but not good enough views to positively identify, Caprimulgus spp. Once again the<br />

Verreaux‟s Eagle Owl perched out in the open with his melancholy gaze hooded by those ridiculous<br />

pink eyelids that only a bird as sombre and stately as an owl could get away with. We also had a<br />

sighting of a Serval. Scattered showers in the afternoon had charged the air with the incomparable scent<br />

of a dusty landscape freshly washed and a light breeze washed over us as we watched the stars emerge<br />

from behind the clouds.<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 5


24 October 2008 – Khwai Concession Area<br />

Dawn was fresh and clean as a result of yesterday‟s rain but the humidity started to climb as the<br />

morning sun sucked the moisture up from the shallow puddles. The sky remained partly cloudy with the<br />

temperature levelling off at around 37 degrees.<br />

Almost predictably we awoke to the sound of Lions roaring in the east and not long after we left camp<br />

we picked up the tracks of three females. We followed their tracks to large open floodplain surrounded<br />

by Umbrella Thorn (Acacia tortillis) and here things became very confusing. The Lionesses had met up<br />

with another two females, several cubs and sub-adults and there were also tracks of one large male<br />

Lion. Obviously there had been a very fond and energetic reunions as the tracks milled about and<br />

crossed over, backtracked and then headed into the dense grass and towards a woodland dominated by<br />

Rain trees (Philonoptera violaceae). Opting to circle round rather than bundu bashing after them we<br />

were happily rewarded with part of the pride lying right by the side of the road. At first we thought we<br />

had found the four adult females until we saw that one of the females was sporting a rather large set of<br />

testicles which led us then to realise that the male was short of mane but nothing else. We never did find<br />

the rest of that pride as the remainder of our morning was taken up with cuckoos and a productive walk<br />

through the riverine woodland. Our first walk produced Levaillant's Cuckoo (Clamator levaillantii),<br />

Black Cuckoo (Cuculus clamosus), Dideric Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius) and African Cuckoo<br />

(Cuculus gularis) all of which were seen well which is extremely unusual for this gang of parasites<br />

which are usually found only by their call and then with difficulty. We also had excellent views of<br />

Retz‟s Helmetshrike (Prionops retzii), Black-headed Oriole (Oriolus larvatus), Red-headed Weaver<br />

(Anaplectes rubriceps) and Black-backed Puffback (Dryoscopus cubla). Driving along to our next<br />

walking site, Julia spotted another tiny Malachite Kingfisher along the river whilst we were moving –<br />

good eyes Julia! On our second walk we picked up Cardinal Woodpecker (Dendropicos fuscescens),<br />

Bearded Woodpecker (Dendropicos namaquus) and heard the Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera<br />

abingoni) which obstinately refused to show himself. As we neared the river we had good in-flight<br />

views of Black-chested Snake-Eagle (Circaetus pectoralis) and Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax) which was<br />

cruising the tree-line to the considerable distress of the resident squirrels, francolins and guineafowl. As<br />

we emerged from the woodland a pair of Wattled Cranes (Grus carunculatus) wandered through the<br />

shallows of the river with a juvenile so busy feeding that they scarcely paid us any attention at all. Not<br />

much further downstream were a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills (Bucorvis leadbeateri) also<br />

foraging alongside the river with their youngster in tow. On our drive back to camp we saw a further<br />

four separate Dideric Cuckoos made up of three males and one female.<br />

Our afternoon drive was comparatively quiet but it did produce White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)<br />

which is unusual for this area as well as more good views of African Hawk-Eagle (Hieraaetus<br />

spilogaster). A curious baby Giraffe still sporting his infant punk hairstyle afforded us some excellent<br />

views just before sunset. We skipped on the night drive as the sky was flashing electric warnings of a<br />

better-than-average chance of getting drenched should we stay out too late. The sounds of distant and<br />

then not-so-distant thunder followed us back to camp where all the noise and lightning turned out to be<br />

much ado about nothing, the fury of the storms having been spent elsewhere.<br />

25 October 2008 – Khwai to Savuti (Zwe-Zwe Pan)<br />

A cool morning broke into a brutally hot afternoon with the mercury almost certainly kissing the bottom<br />

of 40°C.<br />

Our drive this morning would take us a 80km north into the <strong>Chobe</strong> National Park and up to Savuti and<br />

then a further 40km east to the remote Zwe Zwe pan area. The initial part of the drive along the Khwai<br />

was reasonably uneventful but we were soon to remedy that! We turned north off the Khwai River and<br />

began lumbering over the Makhwikhwe sand ridge which formed the western shore of the vast paleolake<br />

which covered much of central and northern Botswana. On the other side of the sand ridge we<br />

entered the mopane belt where a small flock of Golden-breasted Buntings (Emberiza flaviventris) kept<br />

us busy trying to lock onto them as they flitted from one impossible viewing position to another.<br />

Shortly after this, just as we were rounding a bend I heard the familiar scratching, scolding call of a<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 6


Burchell‟s Starling (Lamprotornis australis) about 40 metres behind us. I reversed back to see what the<br />

commotion was about and there, crossing the road was a beautiful banded-phase Snouted Cobra (Naja<br />

annulifera). I jumped out of the vehicle to have a closer look and hopefully give the creature pause so<br />

that we could get some photographs but the serpent had other ideas and making a swift U-turn he<br />

headed straight under the vehicle. My heart sank as I saw him enter the undercarriage – this was going<br />

to be tricky. After evacuating our now somewhat perturbed birdwatchers from the vehicle I clambered<br />

under the vehicle to ascertain how I was going to coax it out of there. Not easily, was the soon apparent<br />

answer. The cobra had wedged himself above the diesel tank and no amount of prodding, poking or<br />

pulling would budge him. He did at one stage stick his head out between the cab and load body but then<br />

decided he preferred the darkness and security of his diesel tank recess. Having exhausted the extraction<br />

options we stuffed blankets down to block the gap between the cab and load body and drove off in the<br />

hope that the slender stowaway would drop off unharmed somewhere along the way. We never did see<br />

that snake again.<br />

We crossed through the Mababe gate and officially into the <strong>Chobe</strong> National Park where I explained to<br />

the wildlife officers that I might be harbouring a snake from outside of the park and would they like to<br />

take it out before I entered. Strangely enough the wildlife officers displayed no interest in removing,<br />

attempting to remove or being present during an attempt to remove the serpent, in fact they suggested<br />

that we skip the usual signing-in formalities and proceed directly to Savuti where they assured me their<br />

colleagues would be happy to assist. We crossed then into the mighty <strong>Chobe</strong> National Park which<br />

occupies over 10,000 square kilometres of pristine wilderness and is home to an estimated 100,000<br />

Elephants and over 470 species of birds. After a few kilometres we broke through the mopane and onto<br />

the south-western edge of the Mababe Depression. It was here that Johan Wahlberg, for whom the<br />

Wahlberg‟s Eagle is named, ended his days when he was run through by a „rogue‟ bull Elephant that he<br />

had been hunting and thus his career as a hunter, naturalist and collector ended abruptly on an ivory<br />

skewer.<br />

We stopped for brunch under a Shepherd‟s Tree (Boscia albitrunca) which offered welcome shade from<br />

a sun that was already starting to get a little toasty. Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor) and White-browed<br />

Scrub-Robin (Cercotrichas leucophrys) were amongst the visitors to our temporary dining area. A<br />

Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmacis) also made a very swift fly-by and levelled out so low overhead that<br />

the air could be heard vibrating over his flight feathers as he came out of a steep dive. After lunch it was<br />

back on the long road to Savuti where we picked up a goodly mixture of birds on the way including<br />

Pearl-spotted Owlet (Glaucidium perlatum), Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegala), White-bellied<br />

Sunbird (Cinnyris tanatala), Marico Sunbird (Cinnyris mariquensis) and our first Red-crested Korhaan<br />

(Eupodotis ruficrista) which was whistling a happy, piercing tune in the sandy Kalahari Apple-leaf<br />

(Lonchocarpus nelsii) scrub. Just as the soporific rhythm of the land cruiser was lulling everyone to<br />

sleep with their lunch-filled bellies we passed a scrubby Shepherd‟s Tree (Boscia albitrunca) with an<br />

unusual grey patch in the middle, the grey patch turned out to be a Lesser Bushbaby (Galago moholi)<br />

which tried desperately to ignore us and the fact that his hiding place had been found out.<br />

Over the sand ridge the vegetation changes again as we begin approaching the Savuti Hills which, apart<br />

from the sand ridge, provide the only relief on an otherwise pan flat landscape. Originally of volcanic<br />

origin, the hills are sheer on the eastern side where they were pounded by aeons of waves pushed in by<br />

the easterly winds rushing over the inland sea while the western sides slope gently and speak of a more<br />

placid geological history. We stopped for a leg stretch at an enormous Baobab (Adansonia digitata) and<br />

had a brief, tantalizing glimpse of something that looked every bit like a Common Redstart<br />

(Phoenicurus phoenicurus) but was off and away before we had a decent look. Further on we arrived at<br />

Pump Pan which was the first artificial waterhole to be constructed in the Savuti area, unfortunately the<br />

only thing of interest there was a dead elephant that had apparently taken a tumble into the cloying mud<br />

and had been unable to escape. A quick stop at Harvey‟s Pools did not produce the Double-banded<br />

Courser (Rhinoptilus africanus) which we were hoping for and so it was onwards to Zwe-Zwe.<br />

European Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster) and African Hawk-eagle were amongst the birds we saw on the<br />

way along with a female Yellow-throated Sandgrouse (Pterocles gutturalis) which sat placidly in the<br />

road allowing us to take our time to misidentify it. Horus Swifts (Apus horus) were amongst the day‟s<br />

surprise birds as they are not regularly recorded in Botswana. Other birds which pitched up closer to<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 7


camp were the Red-breasted Swallow (Hirundo semirufa) and Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis) of<br />

which we were lucky enough to see both races (nipalensis and orientalis).<br />

We eventually arrived in camp after a long, hot but eventful day. After settling down to sundowner<br />

drinks in camp we savoured both the drinks and the decreasing evening temperatures. Rufous-cheeked<br />

Nightjar (Caprimulgus rufigena) and Barn Owl (Tyto alba) provided the backing vocals for the<br />

evening.<br />

26 October 2008 – Zwe-Zwe Pan & Ngwezumba Valley<br />

We had a late start this morning with 06h30 rising call, we enjoyed breakfast in camp overlooking the<br />

waterhole where a journey of Giraffe had installed themselves for a morning drink. Everywhere we<br />

looked there were Yellow-billed Kites wheeling through the air, it seemed they were attempting to<br />

catch the thousands of Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea) that were also visiting the waterhole. Taking<br />

our tea and coffee with us we installed ourselves on comfortable chairs with a view of the action in<br />

front of us. Half-an-hour here turned up Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi), Gabar<br />

Goshawk (Melierax gabar), Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus), Red-billed Teal (Anas erythrorhyncha),<br />

Burchell‟s Sandgrouse (Pterocles burchelli). After our armchair birding we boarded the vehicle for a<br />

drive to a waterhole which we had dubbed Stinky Pond because of the large amount of elephant dung<br />

surrounding the water. Stinky Pond proved to be a productive stop with great flocks of Red-billed<br />

Quelea which we estimated to number in the tens of thousands. Gathered here to dine upon the quelea<br />

were a pair of Lanner Falcon, a couple of Steppe Eagles which we watched catch no less than four<br />

quelea whilst we were there and later on a great view of a wind-stalling juvenile Black-chested Snake<br />

Eagle (Circaetus pectoralis) checking out the action below. Whilst all of this was going on two male<br />

Kudus (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) came strutting down to imbibe of the not-too-appetising water.<br />

After tea we drove east to Hippo Hollow where we found Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)<br />

and Grey-rumped Swallow (Pseudohirundo griseopyga) before returning to camp for brunch and some<br />

shelter from the swelter. Whilst everyone was having a siesta I watched a pair of White-headed<br />

Vultures (Trigonoceps occipitalis) soaring effortlessly high above our camp.<br />

Our afternoon drive took us east once more towards the Ngwezumba Valley where we finally located a<br />

single Temminck‟s Courser (Cursorius temminckii) on a short grassy plain. We also had our first decent<br />

views of a Mosque Swallow (Hirundo senegalensis) and the sparse shrubland alongside the road<br />

produced a couple of Fawn-coloured Larks (Calendulauda africanoides). In the Zambezi Teak (Baikea<br />

plurijuga) woodlands which signal the start of the fossilised dunes we found a pair of African Hawk-<br />

Eagles (Hieraaetus fasciatus) hunting but none of the expected „teak specials‟. Back at Hippo Hollow<br />

we turned up a very unusual Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus), we tried to get a digiscope image of<br />

the sandpiper but the fading light made it impossible to get a crisp shot. The resident Hippo was in a<br />

particularly foul mood this afternoon and there was much hippo-grunting followed by a spectacular<br />

show of teeth as he opened his mouth almost 180 degrees to register his displeasure at our presence.<br />

All this posturing did not stop us from enjoying a civilised gin & tonic as the sun set behind the pond.<br />

During the night hyena and jackal called as we sat around the fire and went over the birdlist for the day.<br />

A very large cicada came out of the dark like a Japanese Zero and went buzzing straight onto Gloria‟s<br />

shirt causing her to spill red wine on her best trousers. In the background we could hear a constant<br />

stream of Elephants moving through the waterhole.<br />

27 October 2008 – Zwe Zwe to <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />

Our drive from Zwe-Zwe took us further along the Ngwesumba Valley and up into the northern <strong>Chobe</strong><br />

National Park. As we entered the teak forests we found a small group of Violet-backed Starling<br />

(Cinnyricinclus leucogaster) which afforded us fairly good views in the sunlight. We stopped for lunch<br />

in the teak forest after searching for a waterhole which I remembered in the area but could not locate.<br />

On our way to <strong>Chobe</strong> Safari Lodge a male Lion walked across the road in front of our vehicle. We<br />

arrived at the lodge in the afternoon and whilst John and Gloria relaxed on the deck of the lodge, Sally,<br />

Julia and I went for a walk around the lodge gardens where we found a number of new species for the<br />

trip – Brown-throated Weaver (Ploceus xanthopterus), Village Weaver (Ploceus cucullatus), Golden<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 8


Weaver (Ploceus xanthops), White-browed Robin-chat (Cossypha heuglini) and an annoying flock of<br />

Red-faced Mousebirds (Urocolius indicus) which called constantly but were so deep in the canopy that<br />

we could not see them.<br />

On our drive to camp we saw the first of many herds of Cape Buffalo (Cyncerus cafer) and another new<br />

mammal for the trip, the Puku (Kobus vardonii) which only occurs along this 40km stretch of river in<br />

Southern Africa.<br />

28 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />

Our camp was close to the route taken by large numbers of elephants to go down to the river to drink<br />

and then return to the bush and at the <strong>Chobe</strong> River we saw a very large gathering of Elephants. There<br />

were two main highlights of the day - one was a very visible Bushbuck right beside us on the road<br />

above the river bank. Then as we were driving back to camp after sundowners, we came across a pack<br />

of Wild Dogs which crossed our path and appeared to be on a hunting trip. This was our second pack of<br />

dogs as we had also seen a pack by the River Khwai. We felt very lucky to see two packs of dogs in one<br />

holiday!<br />

29 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />

We saw a large group of Sable Antelope crossing the main road. Their hooves clattered on the tarmac<br />

and they found it difficult to grip: one nearly fell over as it lost its footing. Driving into Kasane, there<br />

was a commotion as a Boomslang Snake crossed the road, being mobbed by several starlings. It slunk<br />

off into the undergrowth by the roadside. Back by the <strong>Chobe</strong> River, we had good views of a Blackbacked<br />

Jackal and watched large herds of Cape Buffalo moving down to the river to drink.<br />

30 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />

The highlight today was an idyllic afternoon boat trip on the <strong>Chobe</strong> River. The boatman was very adept<br />

at getting us close to the wildlife - there was a large Crocodile on the bank and we went in very close so<br />

we could see right into his jaws! Once again, there were excellent sightings of Elephants, bathing in the<br />

river near our boat.<br />

The boatman was keen-eyed and we were able to find Lesser Jacana amongst the water lilies. Other<br />

good sightings were very close views of Slaty Egret, White-fronted Bee-eaters, and three different<br />

Kingfishers - Malachite, Giant and Pied.<br />

31 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River - Gweta<br />

We left camp, having said goodbye to Chris, Lops and Moses who had looked after us so well. All<br />

Chris's meals had been excellent and varied, with good presentation. They were going to return directly<br />

to Maun while we drove to Kasane. We then had a long and very windy journey to Planet Baobab, near<br />

Gweta, where we had dinner and spent the night.<br />

01 November 2008<br />

After breakfast we drove to Maun. The only notable wildlife on the journey was several Ostriches<br />

picking over the verges by the side of the road. On arrival at Maun we were taken to the Letaka Safari<br />

offices where we had the opportunity of a wash and a drink. Then we sorted out our luggage and<br />

checked-in on-line for the Jo'burg London flight. Brent drove us to the airport where we had an<br />

enjoyable lunch at a restaurant over the road from the terminal building, before the delights of checking<br />

in for our flight to South Africa and our journey home.<br />

Acknowledgements<br />

Many thanks to John Nottage for providing the diary for 27 th October to 1 st November and the birdlist<br />

as Brent has mislaid his second note book and was unable to complete the report.<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 9


Brent Reed<br />

Ornitholidays<br />

29 Straight Mile<br />

Romsey<br />

Hampshire<br />

SO51 9BB<br />

Tel: 01794 519445<br />

E-mail: info@ornitholidays.co.uk<br />

May 2009<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 10


CHECKLIST OF SPECIES SEEN DURING THE <strong><strong>TO</strong>UR</strong><br />

SPECIES SCIENTIFIC NAME<br />

Common Ostrich Struthio camelus<br />

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis<br />

Reed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus<br />

African Darter Anhinga melanogaster<br />

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea<br />

Goliath Heron Ardea goliath<br />

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea<br />

Great (White) Egret Egretta alba<br />

Little Egret Egretta garzetta<br />

Yellow-billed Egret Egretta intermedia<br />

Black Heron (Egret) Egretta ardesiaca<br />

Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula<br />

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis<br />

(Common) Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides<br />

Green-backed Heron Butorides striatus<br />

Rufous-bellied Heron Butorides rufiventris<br />

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax<br />

Hamerkop Scopus umbretta<br />

African Openbill (Openbilled Stork) Anastomus lamelligerus<br />

Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis<br />

Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus<br />

Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis<br />

African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus<br />

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus<br />

Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash<br />

African Spoonbill Platalea alba<br />

White-faced Duck Dendrocygna viduata<br />

Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus<br />

Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha<br />

Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis<br />

Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius<br />

Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus<br />

(African) White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus<br />

Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus<br />

Yellow-billed Kite Milvus parasiticus<br />

Black Kite Milvus migrans<br />

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus<br />

Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax<br />

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis<br />

Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina<br />

Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi<br />

African Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus<br />

Ayer‟s Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus ayresii<br />

Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus<br />

Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus<br />

Black-chested (Black-breasted) Snake-Eagle Circaetus gallicus<br />

Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus<br />

African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer<br />

Steppe Buzzard Buteo vulpinus<br />

Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus<br />

Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus<br />

Shikra (Little Banded Goshawk) Accipiter badius<br />

Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar<br />

Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates<br />

African Marsh-Harrier Circus ranivorus<br />

Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus<br />

Eurasian (European) Hobby Falco subbuteo<br />

Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 11


Red-billed Francolin Francolinus adspersus<br />

Swainson's Spurfowl (Francolin) Francolinus swainsonii<br />

Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris<br />

Wattled Crane Grus carunculata<br />

Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris<br />

African Purple Swamphen (Purple Gallinule) Porphyrio porphyrio<br />

Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori<br />

Red-crested Korhaan Eupodotis ruficrista<br />

African Jacana Actophilornis africanus<br />

Lesser Jacana Actophilornis melanogaster<br />

Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis<br />

Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius<br />

Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris<br />

White-crowned Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus albiceps<br />

Crowned Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus coronatus<br />

Blacksmith Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus armatus<br />

Long-toed Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus crassirostris<br />

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres<br />

Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucus<br />

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus<br />

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola<br />

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis<br />

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia<br />

Ruff Philomachus pugnax<br />

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus<br />

Spotted Thick-knee (Dikkop) Burhinus capensis<br />

Water Thick-knee (Dikkop) Burhinus vermiculatus<br />

Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii<br />

Collared (Red-winged) Pratincole Glareola pratincola<br />

Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis<br />

Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus<br />

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus<br />

White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus<br />

African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris<br />

Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua<br />

Burchell's Sandgrouse Pterocles burchelli<br />

Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis<br />

Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus<br />

Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columbia livia<br />

Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata<br />

African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens<br />

Cape Turtle Dove Streptopelia capicola<br />

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis<br />

Namaqua Dove Oena capensis<br />

Emerald-spotted (Greenspotted) Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos<br />

African Green-Pigeon Treron calva<br />

Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri<br />

Grey Go-away-bird (Lourie) Corythaixoides concolor<br />

African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis<br />

Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus<br />

Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius<br />

Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus<br />

Diderick (Diederik) Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius<br />

Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus<br />

Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis<br />

Marsh Owl Asio capensis<br />

African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis<br />

Southern White-faced Scops-Owl Otus leucotis<br />

Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum<br />

African Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense<br />

Verreaux‟s (Giant) Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus<br />

Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar Caprimulgus fossii<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 12


Common (European) Swift Apus apus<br />

White-rumped Swift Apus caffer<br />

Little Swift Apus affinis<br />

African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus<br />

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis<br />

Giant Kingfisher Ceryle maxima<br />

Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata<br />

Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris<br />

Grey-headed (Grey-hooded) Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala<br />

Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti<br />

European Bee-eater Merops apiaster<br />

Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicoides<br />

White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides<br />

Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus<br />

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus<br />

Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata<br />

Purple Roller Coracias naevia<br />

Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus<br />

African Hoopoe Upupa africana<br />

Green (Redbilled) Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus<br />

Common (Greater) Scimitarbill Phoeniculus cyanomelas<br />

African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus<br />

Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus<br />

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas<br />

Bradfield's Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi<br />

Southern Ground-Hornbill Bucorvus cafer<br />

Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus<br />

Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii<br />

Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator<br />

Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor<br />

Bennett's Woodpecker Campethera bennettii<br />

Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni<br />

Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens<br />

Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus<br />

Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana<br />

Fawn-coloured Lark Mirafra africanoides<br />

Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark (Finchlark) Eremopterix leucotis<br />

Barn (European) Swallow Hirundo rustica<br />

White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis<br />

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii<br />

Red-breasted Swallow Hirundo semirufa<br />

Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis<br />

Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata<br />

Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula<br />

Grey-rumped Swallow Pseudhirundo griseopyga<br />

Sand Martin Riparia riparia<br />

Banded Martin Riparia cincta<br />

Black Cuckooshrike Campephaga flava<br />

Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis<br />

Black-headed (Eastern) Oriole Oriolus larvatus<br />

Pied Crow Corvus albus<br />

Southern Black Tit Parus niger<br />

Grey Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus caroli<br />

Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii<br />

Hartlaub‟s Babbler Turdoides hartlaubii<br />

Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor<br />

African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans<br />

Dark-caped (Blackeyed) Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus<br />

Terrestrial Brownbul (Bulbul) Phyllastrephus terrestris<br />

African Yellow-bellied Greenbul (Bulbul) Chlorocichla flaviventris<br />

Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus<br />

Groundscraper Thrush Turdus litsipsirupa<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 13


Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata<br />

Arnott‟s (Arnot's) Chat Thamnolaea arnotti<br />

African (Common) Stonechat Saxicola torquata<br />

White-browed Robin-Chat (Heuglin's Robin) Cossypha heuglini<br />

White-browed Scrub-Robin (Robin) Erythropygia leucophrys<br />

Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler Parisoma subcaeruleum<br />

Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus<br />

Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida<br />

Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens<br />

Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata<br />

African (Barred) Wren-Warbler Camaroptera fasciolata<br />

Zitting (Fantailed) Cisticola Cisticola juncidis<br />

Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus<br />

Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana<br />

Luapula (Blackbacked) Cisticola Cisticola luapula<br />

Chirping Cisticola Cisticola pipiens<br />

Neddicky Cisticola fulvicapillus<br />

Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava<br />

Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans<br />

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata<br />

Ashy (Bluegrey) Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens<br />

Southern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis pammelaina<br />

Marico Flycatcher Melaenornis mariquensis<br />

Pale (Mousecoloured) Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus<br />

Chinspot Batis Batis molitor<br />

African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis<br />

African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp<br />

Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis<br />

African (Grassveld) Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus<br />

Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys<br />

Buffy Pipit Anthus vaalensis<br />

Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor<br />

Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio<br />

Magpie (African Longtailed) Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca<br />

Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus<br />

Swamp Boubou Laniarius bicolor<br />

Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrococcineus<br />

Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla<br />

Brubru Nilaus afer<br />

Brown-crowned (Threestreaked) Tchagra Tchagra australis<br />

Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala<br />

White-crested (White) Helmet-Shrike Prionops plumatus<br />

Retz‟s (Redbilled) Helmet-Shrike Prionops retzii<br />

Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus anguitimens<br />

Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea<br />

Violet-backed (Plumcoloured) Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster<br />

Burchell's Starling Lamprotornis australis<br />

Meve‟s (Longtailed) Starling Lamprotornis mevesii<br />

Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens<br />

Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus<br />

Lesser Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus<br />

Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus<br />

Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus<br />

Copper (Coppery) Sunbird Nectarinia cuprea<br />

Marico Sunbird Nectarinia mariquensis<br />

White-bellied Sunbird Nectarinia talatala<br />

Scarlet-chested Sunbird Nectarinia senegalensis<br />

Amethyst (African Black) Sunbird Nectarinia amethystina<br />

Collared Sunbird Anthreptes collaris<br />

Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis niger<br />

White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali<br />

Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 14


African Yellow-throated Petronia (Sparrow) Petronia superciliaris<br />

Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons<br />

Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis<br />

Village (Spottedbacked) Weaver Ploceus cucullatus<br />

African Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus<br />

Lesser Masked-Weaver Ploceus intermedius<br />

Southern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus xanthopterus<br />

Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps<br />

Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea<br />

Green-winged Pytilia (Melba Finch) Pytilia melba<br />

Jameson's Firefinch Lagonosticta rhodopareia<br />

Red-billed Fire Finch Lagonosticta senegala<br />

Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis<br />

Violet-eared Waxbill Granatina granatina<br />

Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata<br />

Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia<br />

Long-tailed (Eastern) Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisea<br />

Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary Serinus mozambicus<br />

Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis<br />

Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris<br />

Cinnamon-breasted (Rock) Bunting Emberiza tahapisi<br />

MAMMALS<br />

Lesser Bushbaby Galago moholi<br />

Black-faced Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops<br />

Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus<br />

Side-striped Jackal h Canis adustus<br />

Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas<br />

Hunting Dog Lycaon pictus<br />

Honey Badger Mellivora capensis<br />

Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula<br />

Slender Mongoose Galerella sanguinea<br />

Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo<br />

Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta<br />

Serval Felis serval<br />

African Wild Cat Felis lybica<br />

Lion Panthera leo<br />

Leopard Panthera pardus<br />

Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus<br />

African Elephant Loxodonta africana<br />

Burchell's Zebra Equus burchellii<br />

Wart hog Phacochoerus aethiopicus<br />

Hippopotamus Hippotamus amphibius<br />

Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis<br />

Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus<br />

Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros<br />

Cape Buffalo Synceros caffer<br />

Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus<br />

Red Lechwe Kobus leche<br />

Puku Kobus vardonii<br />

Southern Reedbuck Redunca arundinum<br />

Roan Antelope Hippotragus equinus<br />

Sable Antelope Hippotragus niger<br />

Blue Wilbebeest Connochaetes taurinus<br />

Tsessebe Damaliscus lunatus<br />

Steenbok Raphiceros campestris<br />

Impala Aepyceros melampus<br />

MopaneTree Squirrel Paraxerus cepapi<br />

Spring Hare Pedetes capensis<br />

Scrub Hare Lepus saxatillis<br />

Woodland Dormouse Graphiurus murinus<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 15


OTHER ANIMALS<br />

Terrapin<br />

Nile Monitor Lizard<br />

Kalahari Ferrari<br />

Snouted Cobra Naja annulifera<br />

Boomslang<br />

Bold Text = endemic to Southern Africa<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 16


Cheetah<br />

Lioness<br />

Elephant<br />

Verreaux's Eagle-Owl<br />

Hunting Dog<br />

Sable<br />

Cobra<br />

White-cheeked Bee-eaters<br />

Front cover and this page all photographs © John Nottage<br />

Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 17

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