ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO BOTSWANA Moremi & Chobe ...
ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO BOTSWANA Moremi & Chobe ...
ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO BOTSWANA Moremi & Chobe ...
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
Leader: Brent Reed<br />
ORNITHOLIDAYS’ <strong><strong>TO</strong>UR</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>BOTSWANA</strong><br />
<strong>Moremi</strong> & <strong>Chobe</strong> Camping Tour<br />
18 October – 02 November 2008
19 October, 2008 – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve<br />
Overcast and cool. 25C<br />
ORNITHOLIDAYS’ <strong><strong>TO</strong>UR</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>BOTSWANA</strong><br />
<strong>Moremi</strong> & <strong>Chobe</strong> Camping Tour<br />
18 October – 02 November<br />
A Personal Diary<br />
It was a frustrating start to the trip for the four travellers who unbeknownst to me were fretting away in<br />
Johannesburg whilst I was making my way by road to the <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve where I was<br />
expecting to collect the party at the Xakanaxa Airstrip at midday. It was a cool, cloudy Sunday morning<br />
and having plenty of time on my hands I managed to get in a little birding en-route. The Mopane<br />
(Colophospermum mopane) woodlands produced the usual bird parties with Golden-breasted Bunting<br />
(Emberiza flaviventris), Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor), Southern Black Tit (Parus niger),<br />
Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) and the ubiquitous Fork-tailed Drongos (Dicrurus adsimilis)<br />
which are seen everywhere in virtually every habitat.<br />
Back to our intrepid travellers who were still waiting for their Air Botswana flight to get off the ground<br />
in Johannesburg. As it turned out there were three Air Botswana flights cancelled that day, our<br />
unfortunate friends managed to get to Gaberone and no further. After more frustrating delays it<br />
eventually became apparent that they would not be getting to Maun that day and had to spend the night<br />
at a hotel in Gaberone (Gabs) instead.<br />
20 October, 2008 – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve<br />
Clear sunny skies with daytime temperatures peaking around 36C<br />
I woke up to the sound of monkeys chattering madly in the<br />
trees above my tent, clearly something was up. Not having<br />
anything else to do I jumped into the cruiser and headed off<br />
in the direction that the monkeys were looking. After about<br />
15 minutes of driving back and forth, stopping and waiting<br />
for more information from the monkeys, eventually I spotted<br />
the hooves of a recently deceased impala sticking out from<br />
under a candle-pod acacia on the edge of the floodplain about<br />
100m from our camp. The Leopard which had caused the<br />
impala‟s demise was so well hidden that even from a few<br />
metres away I had to use my binoculars to be certain he was<br />
Yellow Canary (Serinus flaviventris)<br />
actually there. Julia, Sally, John and Gloria were still in Gabs<br />
at this time. Air Botswana have a faultless safety record but<br />
schedules don‟t seem to mean too much to them, however delays spanning 24 hours are almost unheard<br />
of. Eventually our intrepid travellers managed to board the plane bound for Maun and shortly after their<br />
arrival in the dusty frontier town they were met by Mike, my father, and shown to the charter plane<br />
which would ferry them into <strong>Moremi</strong>. My morning‟s birding was happily interrupted by a radio call<br />
from my father informing me that the guests had boarded their charter flight and were now on their way<br />
to <strong>Moremi</strong>. The only bird worth mentioning in as far as we did not see it again on the safari was a lone<br />
Caspian Plover (Charadrius asiaticus) seen on the Fourth Bridge floodplains.<br />
It was hot and bright at the Xakanaxa airstrip where the trusty little Cessna 206 touched down with the<br />
travel-weary gang on board. We had a quiet drive back to camp where we got everything packed into<br />
the tents before setting off for the afternoon drive.<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 1
Our first drive would prove to be one of our best for mammal sightings. Driving the upper floodplains<br />
of the Bodumatau/Fourth Bridge area we came across a Cheetah with two very young cubs that had<br />
been discovered by another safari vehicle, initially I had assumed that the vehicles were watching a<br />
Lion as another guide had told us that there was a big male sighted in the area that morning. It was a<br />
very pleasant surprise to come around the corner and find a mother Cheetah with two cubs so young<br />
they were still sporting the silvery mane of hair which makes them resemble little honey badgers. We<br />
ended our afternoon in the open plains at the top of the Bodumatau area where we had a flight of 16<br />
Black Egrets (Egretta ardesiaca) saluting us at the end of the day followed by the real bonus of two<br />
pairs of Marsh Owls (Asio capensis) which flew right by us as we sipped on our sun-downer drinks.<br />
The group was able to catch a glimpse of the Leopard hidden in the bush in front of the camp that I had<br />
seen earlier that morning. Our first evening in camp as a group was fairly noisy with a number of lions<br />
calling as well as a Hippo later at night which Sally heard munching grass in the vicinity of the camp.<br />
21 October – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve<br />
Overcast and warm in the morning getting hotter in the afternoon with<br />
temperatures peaking around 34C. A reasonably quiet morning started<br />
off with distant thunder and lightning which heralded the early rains but<br />
later dissipated leaving only a humid memory.<br />
We had a very large bull Elephant during our coffee break at Jessie‟s<br />
Pools which appeared soundlessly out the mopane behind us as we<br />
watched a variety of herons and egrets around the fringes of the tranquil<br />
water. A pair of African Hawk-eagles (Hieraaetus spilogaster) treated<br />
us to some good views as they hunted along the edge of a woodland<br />
whilst the Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris) squawked madly<br />
from their cover under the Croton bushes.<br />
The morning also brought our first real close-up of Wattled Cranes<br />
(Grus carunculatus) which we viewed in perfect light as they foraged<br />
along the sedge line of another vast Xakanaxa floodplain. Often cited as<br />
Yellow-billed Stork (Mycteria ibis) Africa‟s fastest antelope, the Tsessebe (Damaliscus lunatus) made its<br />
first appearance on our mammal list with a small herd not far from our<br />
camp. Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) and Burchell‟s Zebra (Equus quagga burchelii) were also<br />
seen around the Third Bridge area during our search for the mother Cheetah and her cubs which we had<br />
seen the previous day.<br />
After brunch in camp, those not indulging in a siesta did<br />
some camp birding and turned up, amongst others,<br />
Diderick Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius), Yellowbreasted<br />
Apalis (Apalis flavida), Black-collared Barbet<br />
(Lybius torquatus), Swamp Boubou (Laniarius bicolor)<br />
and African Yellow White-eye (Zosterops sengalensis).<br />
The afternoon brought massive deep-purple towers of<br />
cumulus cloud from the east but no rain resulted from the<br />
build-up and we had to settle for distant views of a few<br />
spectacular bolts of lightning.<br />
Our afternoon drive took us to the Xakanaxa boat station Double-banded Sandgrouse (Pterocles bicinctus)<br />
where we boarded a 16 foot aluminium boat for our<br />
exploration of the Xakanaxa Lediba (Setswana for lagoon), one of the permanent waterways of the<br />
Okavango Delta. We managed to get excellent face to face views of birds on a small heronry including<br />
Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus), Yellow-billed Stork (Mycteria ibis), Black-crowned Night-<br />
Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Reed Cormorant (Phalacrocorax africanus), African Darter (Anhinga<br />
rufa) and Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea). The heronries are perched on top of clusters of Water Fig<br />
(Ficus verruculosa), an aquatic species of fig which abounds in the larger lagoons of the Okavango<br />
Delta. These green islands form the perfect refuge for nesting birds as they are safe from all terrestrial<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 2
predators with the exception of snakes and it would be a very bold snake that makes an appearance in<br />
these colonies of watchful parents with their generally dagger-like bills. Whilst we viewed the heronry,<br />
two bull Elephants emerged from an adjacent channel and we were able to float alongside these grey<br />
giants as they fed and relaxed in the cool delta waters.<br />
We arrived back at the boat station about 30 minutes before sunset and headed off to one of my<br />
favourite sites for the Bat Hawk (Macheiramphus alcinus) along a section of woodland overlooking a<br />
large area of Miscanthus grass. On our way to the Bat Hawk site we passed through a flock of feeding<br />
Southern Carmine Bee-eaters (Merops rubicoides) which sailed back and forth right over our heads.<br />
The festival of carmine and blue colour was accompanied by the castanet-like clicking of over a<br />
hundred little beaks snapping shut on flying prey. Although we dipped on the Bat Hawk we did get<br />
some good views of a Grey Penduline-tit (Anthroscopus caroli) going in and out of its very unusual<br />
nest, these tiny little birds are often difficult to get onto but the fact that this one was nesting meant we<br />
had no trouble getting great scope views. A bird which I was surprised to miss here was the Whitebrowed<br />
Coucal (Centropus superciliosus) which is normally fairly reliable at this site and had been very<br />
vocal and visible on my last visit. After sundowners spent still scanning for the elusive Bat Hawk we<br />
returned to camp and managed to pick up Verreaux‟s Eagle-Owl (Bubo lacteus) and the tiny African<br />
Barred Owlet (Glaucidium capense).<br />
Back at camp the Swamp Nightjar (Caprimulgus natalensis) provided the backing vocals to another<br />
delicious meal prepared by Chris and his team in their bush kitchen.<br />
22 October – <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve to Khwai Concession Area<br />
The weather today was a typical October day in Botswana, a hot sunny morning and midday followed<br />
by building clouds and humidity in the latter part of the afternoon, the mercury topped out around 38<br />
degrees today!<br />
Moving day! It was time to say goodbye to our little camp in Fourth Bridge and head east for our next<br />
camp along the Khwai river just outside the <strong>Moremi</strong>. We were awoken by the echoing roar of Lions just<br />
a few hundred metres from our camp, along with the half-light of dawn and the chorus of robins and<br />
francolins it made for memorable rising. The Batswana (citizens of Botswana) have a greeting in their<br />
language, Setswana, which goes, O tsogile sentle? (Did you wake up well?) to which the reply in this<br />
case would be Ee ke tsogile sentle! (Yes, I woke up well!).<br />
Gloria reported that she had seen a Spotted Hyena<br />
(Crocuta crocuta) in camp during the night and after<br />
a quick scout around I found the tracks of two<br />
hyenas. Their presence in camp was confirmed by<br />
Chris, Lops and Moses in the kitchen where the<br />
hyenas had spent the majority of their time trying to<br />
locate scraps left over from our dinner. During<br />
breakfast the Vervet Monkeys (Cercopithicus<br />
aethiops) moved into the Jackalberry tree (Diospyros<br />
mespilliformis) above our breakfast table and one<br />
individual very rudely began unleashing faecal<br />
Saddle-billed Stork (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis)<br />
bombs which meant we had to scatter in disarray<br />
with our coffee and cereal in hand. The camp staff<br />
quickly moved the table and no harm was done. A great mixed herd of Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes<br />
taurinus) and Burchell‟s Zebra were seen on the plains adjacent to the mopane woodlands on the<br />
Acacia Pan road. Our drive took us through a long stretch of mopane where the usual suspects were<br />
seen in amongst bird parties, these included White-crested Helmet-Shrike (Prionops plumatus),<br />
Arnott‟s Chat (Myrmecocichla arnoti), Brubru (Nilaus afer), Swallow-tailed Bee-eater (Merops<br />
hirundineus) and a frustrating Striped Kingfisher (Halcyon chelicuti) which called and called but must<br />
was never seen. I eventually concluded that it must have been calling from a hole and having a laugh at<br />
our expense. A binocular scan of a muddy expanse in the mopane where we were looking for Greater<br />
Painted-Snipe (Rostratula benghalensis) produced a pride of nine Lions instead. We drove around to<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 3
have a closer look and found a pride consisting of four adult females and some sub-adults, there were<br />
no males present and the Lions were doing what Lions are wont to do during the day, sleeping. Another<br />
scan for the snipes came up empty and we made our way onwards and eastwards towards the Khwai<br />
region. One of our stops produced two male Bennet‟s Woodpeckers (Campethera bennetti) chasing<br />
each other around the trunk of an old mopane and calling vigorously until the weaker of the two<br />
eventually gave up and turned tail for less contested territory. We left the park via the bridge over the<br />
River Khwai which demarcates the northern boundary of the <strong>Moremi</strong> Game Reserve. Not far outside<br />
the park on an area known as Lechwe Plains we turned up a lone Temminck's Courser (Cursorius<br />
temminckii). Once outside the park and into the concession area we stopped alongside the river for<br />
lunch and a bit of a snooze. Chris had outdone himself with our picnic and soon we were lost in a<br />
satiated and somnolent trance along the Khwai River with only storks and Elephants for company.<br />
Our drive onward to our camp produced a sought-after Secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius) which<br />
Gloria commented “looks like Audrey Hepburn in Capri pants” and it did rather as it strutted along the<br />
moist Cyperus sedge-lines. This was rather unusual habitat for this stately bird which in Botswana is<br />
normally found in large semi-arid grasslands and not along rivers. We also found a number of Whitebacked<br />
Vultures (Gyps africanus) on nests in the tall Knobthorn trees (Acacia nigrescens) which are<br />
very common in the Khwai region. After arriving in our camp at Sable Alley we had time to get our<br />
things organised and spend some time gazing over the Sable Alley channel which is a small backwater<br />
which pushes up from the Khwai River in years of high flood.<br />
We went out again just before sunset to another site<br />
which sometimes produces the Bat Hawk but once<br />
again we were to dip on this species. On the way to<br />
our sundowner spot we manage to add Rufous-bellied<br />
Heron (Ardeola rufiventris) and Slaty Egret (Egretta<br />
vinaceigula), two Okavango specials, to our growing<br />
list. Once we stopped for sundowners we were<br />
treated to an amazing sighting of a clan of hyenas<br />
who trotted out of the bush and came to drink from a<br />
small pool about 20 feet from where we were<br />
standing. They came one by one, then two, then three<br />
Golden-breasted Bunting (Emberiza flaviventris)<br />
until there were nine hyenas scattered between the<br />
pool and a stretch of the river a little further away. They paid us absolutely no notice and things were<br />
fairly peaceful until suddenly one of the hyenas decided that one of their number had not paid her due<br />
respect and then pandemonium broke out as the clan picked on first one then another member. The<br />
howling, screeching, laughing, yipping medley of calls that resonated along the river was almost<br />
overwhelming. John managed to record some of the sound on his MP3 recorder although it was difficult<br />
to capture the full spine-tingling atmosphere of the feet striking earth as they charged back and forth<br />
along the river howling and baying as they went. Sally desperately tried to make herself one with the<br />
vehicle during this outburst and despite my assurances that we were perfectly safe at the vehicle Sally<br />
remained sceptical. After a few minutes the mayhem ceased, the hyenas melted back into the bush from<br />
whence they had come and peace returned to the river. Sally gave a wry smile and took another swig of<br />
fortifying gin & tonic. Our night drive back to camp was quiet but we did manage to get another very<br />
good look at Verreaux‟s Eagle Owl and had a wonderful sighting of Southern White-faced Scops-Owl<br />
(Ptilopsis granti).<br />
23 October – Khwai Concession Area<br />
Cumulus continued to build but there was not much humidity and this made the 35+ degrees bearable,<br />
the occasional cloud offering relief from the searing sun.<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 4
Gabar Goshawk (Melierax gabar)<br />
Lions greeted the dawn once again, this time from<br />
the west of our camp. We could hear their deep,<br />
throaty roaring reverberating through our tents as the<br />
staff poured warm water into the stand basins<br />
outside our canvas castles. Breakfast was<br />
accompanied by a pair of Little Sparrowhawks<br />
(Accipiter minullus) mobbing a couple of Vervet<br />
monkeys in the leadwood trees (Combertum<br />
imberbe) above our camp. In the distance we could<br />
hear the hooting of a pair of Verreaux‟s Eagle Owls<br />
and all around the camp was the constant wakkawakka<br />
calling of the Red-billed Hornbills (Tockus<br />
erythrorhynchus).<br />
First up on our morning drive was a pair of Bearded Woodpeckers (Dendropicus namaquus), the male<br />
was following the female with clear intentions but the female was having none of it and kept on eluding<br />
his best efforts to waylay her. We stopped for tea at a bend on the Khwai River where a pod of Hippo<br />
make their home. Here we were entertained by the snorting and chortling of these unlikely beasts whilst<br />
we picked out Water Thick-knees (Burhinus vermiculatus) which were cleverly disguised as lumps of<br />
elephant dung amongst a field of the same. Etymologically these birds have had a rough time of it, their<br />
current name of Thick-knee replaces the old name, Dikkop, an Afrikaans word meaning „thick head‟ –<br />
from thick heads to thick knees. We left our fat hippos and thick knees and were several minutes down<br />
the road when Gloria enquired as to the whereabouts of my spotting scope – I had left it back at Hippo<br />
Hollow. We made a smooth but urgent U-turn and headed back to the tea spot where thankfully it still<br />
stood atop the tripod as yet unmolested by the wildlife. We had an urgent appointment this morning, the<br />
missing Pimms was due to land at the Khwai airstrip on A2-FMD (or Alpha 2 – Fox Mike Delta), a<br />
Cessna 206 which had been dispatched from Maun carrying this precious cargo. On our way to the<br />
airstrip we met another guide from Wilderness Safaris who told us they had seen Wild Dogs (Lycaon<br />
pictus) not far from the airstrip. We headed over towards the airstrip where the dogs had been seen and<br />
were lucky to find the dogs lying quite a way from the road under a large Toothbrush bush (Diospyros<br />
lyciodes), one of the pack of seven had gone to the river to drink and it was thanks to him that we saw<br />
where the rest of the pack were lying flat out on the ground. Whilst watching the dogs we were visited<br />
by a Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor) and a Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera abingoni).<br />
Back at camp over brunch we mused how lucky Sally was to have seen Wild Dogs on her first visit to<br />
Botswana, Julia had to travel with us ten times before eventually setting eyes on these nomadic beasties.<br />
Our afternoon drive afforded some excellent views of a Malachite Kingfisher (Alcedo cristata) feeding<br />
a fledgling in the sedge line along the river. Around this time we also realised that the Pimms had been<br />
flown in but no lemonade – another radio call to the office was made to arrange for a case of lemonade<br />
to be flown in the following morning. Across the river we saw what was to be our first and only Steppe<br />
Buzzard (Buteo vulpinus) for the safari, this pioneering individual seemed to be patiently waiting for a<br />
termite emergence which, judging by the isolated showers falling around us, would not be far off. We<br />
managed to escape the majority of the rain and were only subjected to a light drizzle just as we left<br />
camp.<br />
Just before our stop for sundowners we came across a couple of hyena pups outside a den on one of the<br />
back roads through the western mopane. Our night drive produced none of the Bronze-winged Coursers<br />
(Rhinoptilus chalcopterus) which we had hoped for in the mopane but we did get several views of<br />
flying nightjars but not good enough views to positively identify, Caprimulgus spp. Once again the<br />
Verreaux‟s Eagle Owl perched out in the open with his melancholy gaze hooded by those ridiculous<br />
pink eyelids that only a bird as sombre and stately as an owl could get away with. We also had a<br />
sighting of a Serval. Scattered showers in the afternoon had charged the air with the incomparable scent<br />
of a dusty landscape freshly washed and a light breeze washed over us as we watched the stars emerge<br />
from behind the clouds.<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 5
24 October 2008 – Khwai Concession Area<br />
Dawn was fresh and clean as a result of yesterday‟s rain but the humidity started to climb as the<br />
morning sun sucked the moisture up from the shallow puddles. The sky remained partly cloudy with the<br />
temperature levelling off at around 37 degrees.<br />
Almost predictably we awoke to the sound of Lions roaring in the east and not long after we left camp<br />
we picked up the tracks of three females. We followed their tracks to large open floodplain surrounded<br />
by Umbrella Thorn (Acacia tortillis) and here things became very confusing. The Lionesses had met up<br />
with another two females, several cubs and sub-adults and there were also tracks of one large male<br />
Lion. Obviously there had been a very fond and energetic reunions as the tracks milled about and<br />
crossed over, backtracked and then headed into the dense grass and towards a woodland dominated by<br />
Rain trees (Philonoptera violaceae). Opting to circle round rather than bundu bashing after them we<br />
were happily rewarded with part of the pride lying right by the side of the road. At first we thought we<br />
had found the four adult females until we saw that one of the females was sporting a rather large set of<br />
testicles which led us then to realise that the male was short of mane but nothing else. We never did find<br />
the rest of that pride as the remainder of our morning was taken up with cuckoos and a productive walk<br />
through the riverine woodland. Our first walk produced Levaillant's Cuckoo (Clamator levaillantii),<br />
Black Cuckoo (Cuculus clamosus), Dideric Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius) and African Cuckoo<br />
(Cuculus gularis) all of which were seen well which is extremely unusual for this gang of parasites<br />
which are usually found only by their call and then with difficulty. We also had excellent views of<br />
Retz‟s Helmetshrike (Prionops retzii), Black-headed Oriole (Oriolus larvatus), Red-headed Weaver<br />
(Anaplectes rubriceps) and Black-backed Puffback (Dryoscopus cubla). Driving along to our next<br />
walking site, Julia spotted another tiny Malachite Kingfisher along the river whilst we were moving –<br />
good eyes Julia! On our second walk we picked up Cardinal Woodpecker (Dendropicos fuscescens),<br />
Bearded Woodpecker (Dendropicos namaquus) and heard the Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera<br />
abingoni) which obstinately refused to show himself. As we neared the river we had good in-flight<br />
views of Black-chested Snake-Eagle (Circaetus pectoralis) and Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax) which was<br />
cruising the tree-line to the considerable distress of the resident squirrels, francolins and guineafowl. As<br />
we emerged from the woodland a pair of Wattled Cranes (Grus carunculatus) wandered through the<br />
shallows of the river with a juvenile so busy feeding that they scarcely paid us any attention at all. Not<br />
much further downstream were a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills (Bucorvis leadbeateri) also<br />
foraging alongside the river with their youngster in tow. On our drive back to camp we saw a further<br />
four separate Dideric Cuckoos made up of three males and one female.<br />
Our afternoon drive was comparatively quiet but it did produce White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)<br />
which is unusual for this area as well as more good views of African Hawk-Eagle (Hieraaetus<br />
spilogaster). A curious baby Giraffe still sporting his infant punk hairstyle afforded us some excellent<br />
views just before sunset. We skipped on the night drive as the sky was flashing electric warnings of a<br />
better-than-average chance of getting drenched should we stay out too late. The sounds of distant and<br />
then not-so-distant thunder followed us back to camp where all the noise and lightning turned out to be<br />
much ado about nothing, the fury of the storms having been spent elsewhere.<br />
25 October 2008 – Khwai to Savuti (Zwe-Zwe Pan)<br />
A cool morning broke into a brutally hot afternoon with the mercury almost certainly kissing the bottom<br />
of 40°C.<br />
Our drive this morning would take us a 80km north into the <strong>Chobe</strong> National Park and up to Savuti and<br />
then a further 40km east to the remote Zwe Zwe pan area. The initial part of the drive along the Khwai<br />
was reasonably uneventful but we were soon to remedy that! We turned north off the Khwai River and<br />
began lumbering over the Makhwikhwe sand ridge which formed the western shore of the vast paleolake<br />
which covered much of central and northern Botswana. On the other side of the sand ridge we<br />
entered the mopane belt where a small flock of Golden-breasted Buntings (Emberiza flaviventris) kept<br />
us busy trying to lock onto them as they flitted from one impossible viewing position to another.<br />
Shortly after this, just as we were rounding a bend I heard the familiar scratching, scolding call of a<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 6
Burchell‟s Starling (Lamprotornis australis) about 40 metres behind us. I reversed back to see what the<br />
commotion was about and there, crossing the road was a beautiful banded-phase Snouted Cobra (Naja<br />
annulifera). I jumped out of the vehicle to have a closer look and hopefully give the creature pause so<br />
that we could get some photographs but the serpent had other ideas and making a swift U-turn he<br />
headed straight under the vehicle. My heart sank as I saw him enter the undercarriage – this was going<br />
to be tricky. After evacuating our now somewhat perturbed birdwatchers from the vehicle I clambered<br />
under the vehicle to ascertain how I was going to coax it out of there. Not easily, was the soon apparent<br />
answer. The cobra had wedged himself above the diesel tank and no amount of prodding, poking or<br />
pulling would budge him. He did at one stage stick his head out between the cab and load body but then<br />
decided he preferred the darkness and security of his diesel tank recess. Having exhausted the extraction<br />
options we stuffed blankets down to block the gap between the cab and load body and drove off in the<br />
hope that the slender stowaway would drop off unharmed somewhere along the way. We never did see<br />
that snake again.<br />
We crossed through the Mababe gate and officially into the <strong>Chobe</strong> National Park where I explained to<br />
the wildlife officers that I might be harbouring a snake from outside of the park and would they like to<br />
take it out before I entered. Strangely enough the wildlife officers displayed no interest in removing,<br />
attempting to remove or being present during an attempt to remove the serpent, in fact they suggested<br />
that we skip the usual signing-in formalities and proceed directly to Savuti where they assured me their<br />
colleagues would be happy to assist. We crossed then into the mighty <strong>Chobe</strong> National Park which<br />
occupies over 10,000 square kilometres of pristine wilderness and is home to an estimated 100,000<br />
Elephants and over 470 species of birds. After a few kilometres we broke through the mopane and onto<br />
the south-western edge of the Mababe Depression. It was here that Johan Wahlberg, for whom the<br />
Wahlberg‟s Eagle is named, ended his days when he was run through by a „rogue‟ bull Elephant that he<br />
had been hunting and thus his career as a hunter, naturalist and collector ended abruptly on an ivory<br />
skewer.<br />
We stopped for brunch under a Shepherd‟s Tree (Boscia albitrunca) which offered welcome shade from<br />
a sun that was already starting to get a little toasty. Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor) and White-browed<br />
Scrub-Robin (Cercotrichas leucophrys) were amongst the visitors to our temporary dining area. A<br />
Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmacis) also made a very swift fly-by and levelled out so low overhead that<br />
the air could be heard vibrating over his flight feathers as he came out of a steep dive. After lunch it was<br />
back on the long road to Savuti where we picked up a goodly mixture of birds on the way including<br />
Pearl-spotted Owlet (Glaucidium perlatum), Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegala), White-bellied<br />
Sunbird (Cinnyris tanatala), Marico Sunbird (Cinnyris mariquensis) and our first Red-crested Korhaan<br />
(Eupodotis ruficrista) which was whistling a happy, piercing tune in the sandy Kalahari Apple-leaf<br />
(Lonchocarpus nelsii) scrub. Just as the soporific rhythm of the land cruiser was lulling everyone to<br />
sleep with their lunch-filled bellies we passed a scrubby Shepherd‟s Tree (Boscia albitrunca) with an<br />
unusual grey patch in the middle, the grey patch turned out to be a Lesser Bushbaby (Galago moholi)<br />
which tried desperately to ignore us and the fact that his hiding place had been found out.<br />
Over the sand ridge the vegetation changes again as we begin approaching the Savuti Hills which, apart<br />
from the sand ridge, provide the only relief on an otherwise pan flat landscape. Originally of volcanic<br />
origin, the hills are sheer on the eastern side where they were pounded by aeons of waves pushed in by<br />
the easterly winds rushing over the inland sea while the western sides slope gently and speak of a more<br />
placid geological history. We stopped for a leg stretch at an enormous Baobab (Adansonia digitata) and<br />
had a brief, tantalizing glimpse of something that looked every bit like a Common Redstart<br />
(Phoenicurus phoenicurus) but was off and away before we had a decent look. Further on we arrived at<br />
Pump Pan which was the first artificial waterhole to be constructed in the Savuti area, unfortunately the<br />
only thing of interest there was a dead elephant that had apparently taken a tumble into the cloying mud<br />
and had been unable to escape. A quick stop at Harvey‟s Pools did not produce the Double-banded<br />
Courser (Rhinoptilus africanus) which we were hoping for and so it was onwards to Zwe-Zwe.<br />
European Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster) and African Hawk-eagle were amongst the birds we saw on the<br />
way along with a female Yellow-throated Sandgrouse (Pterocles gutturalis) which sat placidly in the<br />
road allowing us to take our time to misidentify it. Horus Swifts (Apus horus) were amongst the day‟s<br />
surprise birds as they are not regularly recorded in Botswana. Other birds which pitched up closer to<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 7
camp were the Red-breasted Swallow (Hirundo semirufa) and Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis) of<br />
which we were lucky enough to see both races (nipalensis and orientalis).<br />
We eventually arrived in camp after a long, hot but eventful day. After settling down to sundowner<br />
drinks in camp we savoured both the drinks and the decreasing evening temperatures. Rufous-cheeked<br />
Nightjar (Caprimulgus rufigena) and Barn Owl (Tyto alba) provided the backing vocals for the<br />
evening.<br />
26 October 2008 – Zwe-Zwe Pan & Ngwezumba Valley<br />
We had a late start this morning with 06h30 rising call, we enjoyed breakfast in camp overlooking the<br />
waterhole where a journey of Giraffe had installed themselves for a morning drink. Everywhere we<br />
looked there were Yellow-billed Kites wheeling through the air, it seemed they were attempting to<br />
catch the thousands of Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea) that were also visiting the waterhole. Taking<br />
our tea and coffee with us we installed ourselves on comfortable chairs with a view of the action in<br />
front of us. Half-an-hour here turned up Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi), Gabar<br />
Goshawk (Melierax gabar), Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus), Red-billed Teal (Anas erythrorhyncha),<br />
Burchell‟s Sandgrouse (Pterocles burchelli). After our armchair birding we boarded the vehicle for a<br />
drive to a waterhole which we had dubbed Stinky Pond because of the large amount of elephant dung<br />
surrounding the water. Stinky Pond proved to be a productive stop with great flocks of Red-billed<br />
Quelea which we estimated to number in the tens of thousands. Gathered here to dine upon the quelea<br />
were a pair of Lanner Falcon, a couple of Steppe Eagles which we watched catch no less than four<br />
quelea whilst we were there and later on a great view of a wind-stalling juvenile Black-chested Snake<br />
Eagle (Circaetus pectoralis) checking out the action below. Whilst all of this was going on two male<br />
Kudus (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) came strutting down to imbibe of the not-too-appetising water.<br />
After tea we drove east to Hippo Hollow where we found Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)<br />
and Grey-rumped Swallow (Pseudohirundo griseopyga) before returning to camp for brunch and some<br />
shelter from the swelter. Whilst everyone was having a siesta I watched a pair of White-headed<br />
Vultures (Trigonoceps occipitalis) soaring effortlessly high above our camp.<br />
Our afternoon drive took us east once more towards the Ngwezumba Valley where we finally located a<br />
single Temminck‟s Courser (Cursorius temminckii) on a short grassy plain. We also had our first decent<br />
views of a Mosque Swallow (Hirundo senegalensis) and the sparse shrubland alongside the road<br />
produced a couple of Fawn-coloured Larks (Calendulauda africanoides). In the Zambezi Teak (Baikea<br />
plurijuga) woodlands which signal the start of the fossilised dunes we found a pair of African Hawk-<br />
Eagles (Hieraaetus fasciatus) hunting but none of the expected „teak specials‟. Back at Hippo Hollow<br />
we turned up a very unusual Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus), we tried to get a digiscope image of<br />
the sandpiper but the fading light made it impossible to get a crisp shot. The resident Hippo was in a<br />
particularly foul mood this afternoon and there was much hippo-grunting followed by a spectacular<br />
show of teeth as he opened his mouth almost 180 degrees to register his displeasure at our presence.<br />
All this posturing did not stop us from enjoying a civilised gin & tonic as the sun set behind the pond.<br />
During the night hyena and jackal called as we sat around the fire and went over the birdlist for the day.<br />
A very large cicada came out of the dark like a Japanese Zero and went buzzing straight onto Gloria‟s<br />
shirt causing her to spill red wine on her best trousers. In the background we could hear a constant<br />
stream of Elephants moving through the waterhole.<br />
27 October 2008 – Zwe Zwe to <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />
Our drive from Zwe-Zwe took us further along the Ngwesumba Valley and up into the northern <strong>Chobe</strong><br />
National Park. As we entered the teak forests we found a small group of Violet-backed Starling<br />
(Cinnyricinclus leucogaster) which afforded us fairly good views in the sunlight. We stopped for lunch<br />
in the teak forest after searching for a waterhole which I remembered in the area but could not locate.<br />
On our way to <strong>Chobe</strong> Safari Lodge a male Lion walked across the road in front of our vehicle. We<br />
arrived at the lodge in the afternoon and whilst John and Gloria relaxed on the deck of the lodge, Sally,<br />
Julia and I went for a walk around the lodge gardens where we found a number of new species for the<br />
trip – Brown-throated Weaver (Ploceus xanthopterus), Village Weaver (Ploceus cucullatus), Golden<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 8
Weaver (Ploceus xanthops), White-browed Robin-chat (Cossypha heuglini) and an annoying flock of<br />
Red-faced Mousebirds (Urocolius indicus) which called constantly but were so deep in the canopy that<br />
we could not see them.<br />
On our drive to camp we saw the first of many herds of Cape Buffalo (Cyncerus cafer) and another new<br />
mammal for the trip, the Puku (Kobus vardonii) which only occurs along this 40km stretch of river in<br />
Southern Africa.<br />
28 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />
Our camp was close to the route taken by large numbers of elephants to go down to the river to drink<br />
and then return to the bush and at the <strong>Chobe</strong> River we saw a very large gathering of Elephants. There<br />
were two main highlights of the day - one was a very visible Bushbuck right beside us on the road<br />
above the river bank. Then as we were driving back to camp after sundowners, we came across a pack<br />
of Wild Dogs which crossed our path and appeared to be on a hunting trip. This was our second pack of<br />
dogs as we had also seen a pack by the River Khwai. We felt very lucky to see two packs of dogs in one<br />
holiday!<br />
29 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />
We saw a large group of Sable Antelope crossing the main road. Their hooves clattered on the tarmac<br />
and they found it difficult to grip: one nearly fell over as it lost its footing. Driving into Kasane, there<br />
was a commotion as a Boomslang Snake crossed the road, being mobbed by several starlings. It slunk<br />
off into the undergrowth by the roadside. Back by the <strong>Chobe</strong> River, we had good views of a Blackbacked<br />
Jackal and watched large herds of Cape Buffalo moving down to the river to drink.<br />
30 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River<br />
The highlight today was an idyllic afternoon boat trip on the <strong>Chobe</strong> River. The boatman was very adept<br />
at getting us close to the wildlife - there was a large Crocodile on the bank and we went in very close so<br />
we could see right into his jaws! Once again, there were excellent sightings of Elephants, bathing in the<br />
river near our boat.<br />
The boatman was keen-eyed and we were able to find Lesser Jacana amongst the water lilies. Other<br />
good sightings were very close views of Slaty Egret, White-fronted Bee-eaters, and three different<br />
Kingfishers - Malachite, Giant and Pied.<br />
31 October 2008 – <strong>Chobe</strong> River - Gweta<br />
We left camp, having said goodbye to Chris, Lops and Moses who had looked after us so well. All<br />
Chris's meals had been excellent and varied, with good presentation. They were going to return directly<br />
to Maun while we drove to Kasane. We then had a long and very windy journey to Planet Baobab, near<br />
Gweta, where we had dinner and spent the night.<br />
01 November 2008<br />
After breakfast we drove to Maun. The only notable wildlife on the journey was several Ostriches<br />
picking over the verges by the side of the road. On arrival at Maun we were taken to the Letaka Safari<br />
offices where we had the opportunity of a wash and a drink. Then we sorted out our luggage and<br />
checked-in on-line for the Jo'burg London flight. Brent drove us to the airport where we had an<br />
enjoyable lunch at a restaurant over the road from the terminal building, before the delights of checking<br />
in for our flight to South Africa and our journey home.<br />
Acknowledgements<br />
Many thanks to John Nottage for providing the diary for 27 th October to 1 st November and the birdlist<br />
as Brent has mislaid his second note book and was unable to complete the report.<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 9
Brent Reed<br />
Ornitholidays<br />
29 Straight Mile<br />
Romsey<br />
Hampshire<br />
SO51 9BB<br />
Tel: 01794 519445<br />
E-mail: info@ornitholidays.co.uk<br />
May 2009<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 10
CHECKLIST OF SPECIES SEEN DURING THE <strong><strong>TO</strong>UR</strong><br />
SPECIES SCIENTIFIC NAME<br />
Common Ostrich Struthio camelus<br />
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis<br />
Reed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus<br />
African Darter Anhinga melanogaster<br />
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea<br />
Goliath Heron Ardea goliath<br />
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea<br />
Great (White) Egret Egretta alba<br />
Little Egret Egretta garzetta<br />
Yellow-billed Egret Egretta intermedia<br />
Black Heron (Egret) Egretta ardesiaca<br />
Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula<br />
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis<br />
(Common) Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides<br />
Green-backed Heron Butorides striatus<br />
Rufous-bellied Heron Butorides rufiventris<br />
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax<br />
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta<br />
African Openbill (Openbilled Stork) Anastomus lamelligerus<br />
Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis<br />
Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus<br />
Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis<br />
African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus<br />
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus<br />
Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash<br />
African Spoonbill Platalea alba<br />
White-faced Duck Dendrocygna viduata<br />
Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus<br />
Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha<br />
Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis<br />
Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius<br />
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus<br />
(African) White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus<br />
Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus<br />
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus parasiticus<br />
Black Kite Milvus migrans<br />
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus<br />
Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax<br />
Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis<br />
Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina<br />
Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi<br />
African Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus<br />
Ayer‟s Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus ayresii<br />
Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus<br />
Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus<br />
Black-chested (Black-breasted) Snake-Eagle Circaetus gallicus<br />
Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus<br />
African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer<br />
Steppe Buzzard Buteo vulpinus<br />
Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus<br />
Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus<br />
Shikra (Little Banded Goshawk) Accipiter badius<br />
Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar<br />
Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates<br />
African Marsh-Harrier Circus ranivorus<br />
Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus<br />
Eurasian (European) Hobby Falco subbuteo<br />
Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 11
Red-billed Francolin Francolinus adspersus<br />
Swainson's Spurfowl (Francolin) Francolinus swainsonii<br />
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris<br />
Wattled Crane Grus carunculata<br />
Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris<br />
African Purple Swamphen (Purple Gallinule) Porphyrio porphyrio<br />
Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori<br />
Red-crested Korhaan Eupodotis ruficrista<br />
African Jacana Actophilornis africanus<br />
Lesser Jacana Actophilornis melanogaster<br />
Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis<br />
Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius<br />
Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris<br />
White-crowned Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus albiceps<br />
Crowned Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus coronatus<br />
Blacksmith Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus armatus<br />
Long-toed Lapwing (Plover) Vanellus crassirostris<br />
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres<br />
Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucus<br />
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus<br />
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola<br />
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis<br />
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia<br />
Ruff Philomachus pugnax<br />
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus<br />
Spotted Thick-knee (Dikkop) Burhinus capensis<br />
Water Thick-knee (Dikkop) Burhinus vermiculatus<br />
Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii<br />
Collared (Red-winged) Pratincole Glareola pratincola<br />
Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis<br />
Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus<br />
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus<br />
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus<br />
African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris<br />
Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua<br />
Burchell's Sandgrouse Pterocles burchelli<br />
Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis<br />
Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus<br />
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columbia livia<br />
Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata<br />
African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens<br />
Cape Turtle Dove Streptopelia capicola<br />
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis<br />
Namaqua Dove Oena capensis<br />
Emerald-spotted (Greenspotted) Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos<br />
African Green-Pigeon Treron calva<br />
Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri<br />
Grey Go-away-bird (Lourie) Corythaixoides concolor<br />
African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis<br />
Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus<br />
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius<br />
Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus<br />
Diderick (Diederik) Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius<br />
Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus<br />
Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis<br />
Marsh Owl Asio capensis<br />
African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis<br />
Southern White-faced Scops-Owl Otus leucotis<br />
Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum<br />
African Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense<br />
Verreaux‟s (Giant) Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus<br />
Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar Caprimulgus fossii<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 12
Common (European) Swift Apus apus<br />
White-rumped Swift Apus caffer<br />
Little Swift Apus affinis<br />
African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus<br />
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis<br />
Giant Kingfisher Ceryle maxima<br />
Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata<br />
Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris<br />
Grey-headed (Grey-hooded) Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala<br />
Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti<br />
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster<br />
Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicoides<br />
White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides<br />
Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus<br />
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus<br />
Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata<br />
Purple Roller Coracias naevia<br />
Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus<br />
African Hoopoe Upupa africana<br />
Green (Redbilled) Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus<br />
Common (Greater) Scimitarbill Phoeniculus cyanomelas<br />
African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus<br />
Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus<br />
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas<br />
Bradfield's Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi<br />
Southern Ground-Hornbill Bucorvus cafer<br />
Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus<br />
Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii<br />
Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator<br />
Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor<br />
Bennett's Woodpecker Campethera bennettii<br />
Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni<br />
Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens<br />
Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus<br />
Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana<br />
Fawn-coloured Lark Mirafra africanoides<br />
Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark (Finchlark) Eremopterix leucotis<br />
Barn (European) Swallow Hirundo rustica<br />
White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis<br />
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii<br />
Red-breasted Swallow Hirundo semirufa<br />
Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis<br />
Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata<br />
Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula<br />
Grey-rumped Swallow Pseudhirundo griseopyga<br />
Sand Martin Riparia riparia<br />
Banded Martin Riparia cincta<br />
Black Cuckooshrike Campephaga flava<br />
Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis<br />
Black-headed (Eastern) Oriole Oriolus larvatus<br />
Pied Crow Corvus albus<br />
Southern Black Tit Parus niger<br />
Grey Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus caroli<br />
Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii<br />
Hartlaub‟s Babbler Turdoides hartlaubii<br />
Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor<br />
African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans<br />
Dark-caped (Blackeyed) Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus<br />
Terrestrial Brownbul (Bulbul) Phyllastrephus terrestris<br />
African Yellow-bellied Greenbul (Bulbul) Chlorocichla flaviventris<br />
Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus<br />
Groundscraper Thrush Turdus litsipsirupa<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 13
Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata<br />
Arnott‟s (Arnot's) Chat Thamnolaea arnotti<br />
African (Common) Stonechat Saxicola torquata<br />
White-browed Robin-Chat (Heuglin's Robin) Cossypha heuglini<br />
White-browed Scrub-Robin (Robin) Erythropygia leucophrys<br />
Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler Parisoma subcaeruleum<br />
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus<br />
Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida<br />
Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens<br />
Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata<br />
African (Barred) Wren-Warbler Camaroptera fasciolata<br />
Zitting (Fantailed) Cisticola Cisticola juncidis<br />
Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus<br />
Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana<br />
Luapula (Blackbacked) Cisticola Cisticola luapula<br />
Chirping Cisticola Cisticola pipiens<br />
Neddicky Cisticola fulvicapillus<br />
Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava<br />
Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans<br />
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata<br />
Ashy (Bluegrey) Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens<br />
Southern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis pammelaina<br />
Marico Flycatcher Melaenornis mariquensis<br />
Pale (Mousecoloured) Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus<br />
Chinspot Batis Batis molitor<br />
African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis<br />
African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp<br />
Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis<br />
African (Grassveld) Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus<br />
Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys<br />
Buffy Pipit Anthus vaalensis<br />
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor<br />
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio<br />
Magpie (African Longtailed) Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca<br />
Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus<br />
Swamp Boubou Laniarius bicolor<br />
Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrococcineus<br />
Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla<br />
Brubru Nilaus afer<br />
Brown-crowned (Threestreaked) Tchagra Tchagra australis<br />
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala<br />
White-crested (White) Helmet-Shrike Prionops plumatus<br />
Retz‟s (Redbilled) Helmet-Shrike Prionops retzii<br />
Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus anguitimens<br />
Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea<br />
Violet-backed (Plumcoloured) Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster<br />
Burchell's Starling Lamprotornis australis<br />
Meve‟s (Longtailed) Starling Lamprotornis mevesii<br />
Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens<br />
Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus<br />
Lesser Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus<br />
Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus<br />
Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus<br />
Copper (Coppery) Sunbird Nectarinia cuprea<br />
Marico Sunbird Nectarinia mariquensis<br />
White-bellied Sunbird Nectarinia talatala<br />
Scarlet-chested Sunbird Nectarinia senegalensis<br />
Amethyst (African Black) Sunbird Nectarinia amethystina<br />
Collared Sunbird Anthreptes collaris<br />
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis niger<br />
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali<br />
Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 14
African Yellow-throated Petronia (Sparrow) Petronia superciliaris<br />
Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons<br />
Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis<br />
Village (Spottedbacked) Weaver Ploceus cucullatus<br />
African Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus<br />
Lesser Masked-Weaver Ploceus intermedius<br />
Southern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus xanthopterus<br />
Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps<br />
Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea<br />
Green-winged Pytilia (Melba Finch) Pytilia melba<br />
Jameson's Firefinch Lagonosticta rhodopareia<br />
Red-billed Fire Finch Lagonosticta senegala<br />
Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis<br />
Violet-eared Waxbill Granatina granatina<br />
Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata<br />
Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia<br />
Long-tailed (Eastern) Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisea<br />
Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary Serinus mozambicus<br />
Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis<br />
Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris<br />
Cinnamon-breasted (Rock) Bunting Emberiza tahapisi<br />
MAMMALS<br />
Lesser Bushbaby Galago moholi<br />
Black-faced Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops<br />
Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus<br />
Side-striped Jackal h Canis adustus<br />
Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas<br />
Hunting Dog Lycaon pictus<br />
Honey Badger Mellivora capensis<br />
Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula<br />
Slender Mongoose Galerella sanguinea<br />
Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo<br />
Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta<br />
Serval Felis serval<br />
African Wild Cat Felis lybica<br />
Lion Panthera leo<br />
Leopard Panthera pardus<br />
Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus<br />
African Elephant Loxodonta africana<br />
Burchell's Zebra Equus burchellii<br />
Wart hog Phacochoerus aethiopicus<br />
Hippopotamus Hippotamus amphibius<br />
Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis<br />
Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus<br />
Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros<br />
Cape Buffalo Synceros caffer<br />
Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus<br />
Red Lechwe Kobus leche<br />
Puku Kobus vardonii<br />
Southern Reedbuck Redunca arundinum<br />
Roan Antelope Hippotragus equinus<br />
Sable Antelope Hippotragus niger<br />
Blue Wilbebeest Connochaetes taurinus<br />
Tsessebe Damaliscus lunatus<br />
Steenbok Raphiceros campestris<br />
Impala Aepyceros melampus<br />
MopaneTree Squirrel Paraxerus cepapi<br />
Spring Hare Pedetes capensis<br />
Scrub Hare Lepus saxatillis<br />
Woodland Dormouse Graphiurus murinus<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 15
OTHER ANIMALS<br />
Terrapin<br />
Nile Monitor Lizard<br />
Kalahari Ferrari<br />
Snouted Cobra Naja annulifera<br />
Boomslang<br />
Bold Text = endemic to Southern Africa<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 16
Cheetah<br />
Lioness<br />
Elephant<br />
Verreaux's Eagle-Owl<br />
Hunting Dog<br />
Sable<br />
Cobra<br />
White-cheeked Bee-eaters<br />
Front cover and this page all photographs © John Nottage<br />
Ornitholidays' Tour to Botswana 18 October to 02 November 2008 Page 17