NTM Publications - UNESCO Malta
NTM Publications - UNESCO Malta
NTM Publications - UNESCO Malta
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<strong>NTM</strong> <strong>Publications</strong><br />
In collaboration with
Editorial.................................................................. 2<br />
MEssagE.By.Prof..CharlEs.farrugia........................ 2<br />
aBout.thE.ContriButors......................................... 3<br />
sEtting.uP.thE.naturE.Park.................................. 4<br />
naturE.Walks.at.il-Majjistral.naturE.and<br />
. hEritagE.Park....................................................... 7<br />
flora.of.il-Majjistral.naturE.and<br />
. hEritagE.Park....................................................... 15<br />
fauna.at.Majjistral.Park......................................... 26<br />
Editorial<br />
ContEnts<br />
Il-Majjistral Park is a dream come true for a group of NGOs which have, over the years,<br />
lobbied for this area to be saved from the axe of development. It is the one of the only<br />
areas in the Maltese islands that still maintains that sense of remoteness and wilderness. Its<br />
ecological, historical and landscape beauty speaks for itself.<br />
What started as a nightmare for every environmentalist - that of development taking<br />
over with an urge to simply cover the area with a golf course - turned into a pleasant<br />
surprise when the Prime Minister announced that not only was the idea of the golf course<br />
being abandoned but the site was to be declared a national nature and heritage park to be managed by a<br />
group of NGOs.<br />
Both Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>), through submissions made way back in 1992, and Din l-Art Óelwa through<br />
a lobbying campaign have been trying over the past decade to get this site fully protected. As they say, the<br />
pen is mightier than the sword since finally a breakthrough was made and now we have the first nature park<br />
today managed by Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>), Din l-Art Óelwa and the Gaia Foundation.<br />
I take this opportunity to thank the Maltese National Commission for <strong>UNESCO</strong> for making this publication<br />
possible and believing in our work, Prof. J.M. Falzon for proofreading the publication and The <strong>Malta</strong><br />
Independent for donating one of the pictures used in this publication.<br />
Vincent Attard<br />
MEssagE by ProF. CHarlEs FarrUgia<br />
Chairman, Maltese National Commission for <strong>UNESCO</strong><br />
thE.avifauna.of.Xagóra.l-óaMra........................... 31<br />
disCovEring.Cultural.hEritagE.at.thE<br />
. Majjistral.Park..................................................... 35<br />
thE.girna:.thE.MaltEsE.CorBEllEd.stonE.hut.... 40<br />
thE.Coastal.and.MarinE.EnvironMEnt................... 43<br />
gEoMorPhiC.ProCEssEs.at.il-Majjistral.Park<br />
. and.its.Environs................................................... 47<br />
WindoWs.to.thE.north.WEst.................................. 52<br />
Manikata.and.its.rural.asPECts.............................. 54<br />
The stand taken by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation<br />
(<strong>UNESCO</strong>) on the protection and enhancement of the natural environment is unequivocal<br />
and unambiguous. One important statement on environmental protection reads:<br />
“There can be no long-term economic or social development on a depleted planet. Teaching<br />
society how to behave responsibly and respect the environment lies at the core of education for<br />
sustainable development.”<br />
In efforts to translate words into action, <strong>UNESCO</strong> has identified 730 different sites on its World Heritage<br />
list: 563 cultural, 144 natural and 23 combined. It urges governments and the international community to do<br />
all they can to ensure that these sites are protected from human and natural developments that in one way<br />
or another might endanger their existence. Among these one finds our Óal Saflieni Hypogeum, the City of<br />
Valletta and the Megalithic Temples both in <strong>Malta</strong> and Gozo. In line with <strong>UNESCO</strong>’s policy, the State and<br />
local NGOs do their utmost to preserve this tangible heritage on behalf of the Islands’ inhabitants and our<br />
many visitors, for the present and future generations.<br />
<strong>UNESCO</strong> also urges educators to sensitize young people to their role and responsibility in helping to<br />
prevent habitat loss and degradation, species loss and pollution, a role which in <strong>Malta</strong> is admirably fulfilled<br />
by Nature Trust, among others.<br />
When Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>) asked the Maltese National Commission for <strong>UNESCO</strong> to underwrite this<br />
publication on the beauty and uniqueness of the Majjistral Natural Reserve in the North-East part of <strong>Malta</strong>,<br />
members agreed to do so without hesitation. This project covers specifically and fulfils admirably <strong>UNESCO</strong>’s<br />
policies on environmental education and protection. Now that the publication is in hand, I am convinced that<br />
all who view and own this book will agree that it was a wise decision. The evocative photographs together<br />
with the informative and stimulating text render the publication an educational tool as well as a memento to<br />
be cherished and preserved, almost as the site itself.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
aboUt tHE ContribUtors<br />
Dr Petra Bianchi is Director of Din l-Art Helwa.<br />
John J. Borg: Principal Curator of Natural History responsible for the National Museum of Natural<br />
History and Ghar Dalam cave and museum in <strong>Malta</strong> and the Gozo Nature Museum (Citadel).<br />
Ornithologist, specialising in seabird ecology and breeding biology particullarly of the members<br />
of the Order Procellariiformes (Shearwaters and Petrels). John was commissioned by MEPA to<br />
prepare the Ornithological Management Plan for the Xaghra l-Hamra area and has carried out<br />
the Environment Impact Assesments (Ornithology and Mammalogy) of the same area.<br />
Mario Cardona is Assistant Head of the primary school of Valletta. He specialised in the filed of<br />
adult education and training and community development. He is a committee member of the<br />
steering committee of the Koperattiva Rurali Manikata (KRM) Ltd..<br />
Dr. Alan Deidun completed his PhD in Biology on the ecology of local sandy beaches in November<br />
2006. Since then, Dr. Deidun has co-authored almost 20 scientific papers on aspects of coastal<br />
ecology, including sandy and shingle beaches, rocky shores, banquettes, killifish populations<br />
and infralittoral assemblages. He is member of the SIBM (Societa Italiana di Biologia Marina)<br />
and of the Institute of Biology and currently also editor of the peer-reviewed natural history<br />
journal ‘The Central Mediterranean Naturalist’. He is currently lecturer at the Department of<br />
Biology and at the Department of Environmental Science at the Junior College, besides a marine<br />
consultant and environmental correspondent with The Sunday Times.<br />
Annalise Falzon is an environmental educator with Nature Trust and the Nature Walks Guide<br />
of the Majjistral Nature and History Park. In 2003 she co-authored “<strong>Malta</strong>, Gozo and Comino<br />
– Off the Beaten Track”, a Nature Trust guidebook for local countryside walks.<br />
Prof. Joseph M. Falzon is Associate Professor of Educational Psychology (retd.); now consultant<br />
to the Matsec Board<br />
Martin Galea is Executive President of Din L-Art Helwa. In other lives he is also president of the<br />
Federation of Industry and the <strong>Malta</strong> Rugby Football Union as well as Managing Director of<br />
Joinwell.<br />
Dr Rudolf Ragonesi is director of The Gaia Foundation.<br />
Avertano Rolé lectures in Physical Geography and Agricultural Science at the University of <strong>Malta</strong>.<br />
His area of specialisation is geomorphology, land degradation, soil erosion, and desertification. He<br />
has extensive experience in environmental management in <strong>Malta</strong> and Australia, and participated<br />
in several international projects regarding land and environmental management.<br />
Arnold Sciberras is the Park Ranger at Il-Majjistral Park.He has been studying the local herpetofauna<br />
for the past decade, focusing special attention on the Maltese Wall Lizard populations and<br />
their surrounding microhabitats. He has also published extensively on this subject and general<br />
entomology.<br />
Jeffrey Sciberras is a part-time gardener and BSc student of Agri-ecosystems Management of the<br />
Mediterranean. He is interested in botany and has written some short articles on local flora for<br />
Il-Ballotra. He also contributed to a number of works regarding fauna,<br />
Joe Sultana is an ornithologist - consultant to the COE European Diploma and to MAP’s RACSPA.<br />
Formerly Principal Environment Officer, Planning Authority board member, Secretary and<br />
President of MOS/BirdLife <strong>Malta</strong>, Council Member of BirdLife International, Chairman of<br />
Naturopa Centre, and Chairman of Ornis Committee. Authored several ornithological and<br />
nature publications. Awarded - Gouden Lepelaar by Vogelbescherming, RSPB Medal, and<br />
Membership of Honour by BirdLife International for outstanding service to ornithology and<br />
bird conservation.<br />
Note: The opinions expressed in the articles are solely of the authors and thus may not reflect the opinion of the Editors and project team.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
MEPA<br />
sEtting UP tHE natUrE Park<br />
Martin Galea<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
From left to right: Mr Vince Attard, Ms Annalise Falzon, Mr Martin Galea Dr Lawrence Gonzi, Mr George Pullicino,<br />
Dr Rudolf Ragonesi and Dr Stanley Zammit inspecting Il-Majjistral site.<br />
It all started in the Minister’s office. The<br />
major NGOs were gathered in the Hon George<br />
Pullicino’s office to put our views against the<br />
proposed golf course at Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />
Whilst looking at the map in the waiting room<br />
we concluded that, far from being given over to<br />
golf, the area should be in fact a part of <strong>Malta</strong>’s<br />
first national park. The area from Çirkewwa to<br />
Wied iΩ-Ûurrieq contains some of <strong>Malta</strong>’s most<br />
beautiful and important countryside and it was an<br />
obvious candidate for a national park. We made<br />
this point to the Minister and he immediately<br />
was interested, however with reservations about<br />
the golf course as this was a Cabinet decision.<br />
Din l-Art Óelwa took this forward and<br />
prepared a detailed 100-page report on the<br />
area. At a number of meetings with the Prime<br />
Minister and with the Minister for Rural Affairs<br />
and the Environment, over the next two years,<br />
the concept was constantly brought up. The<br />
reaction was always positive and it was felt<br />
with increasing optimism that this thing could<br />
fly. Every opportunity was taken to publicise<br />
the idea in the media, articles, in Vigilo and in<br />
meetings with the Superintendence of Cultural<br />
Heritage and MEPA. The reaction was invariably<br />
favourable. <strong>Malta</strong> should have its park.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
We were then told that the Cabinet had<br />
decided and was determined that this should<br />
happen. Instructions were given to MEPA to carry<br />
out a survey and draw up a draft management<br />
plan. It was a red letter day therefore when it<br />
was announced in 2007 that the Government<br />
wished to found a national park and that it was<br />
to be managed by NGOs. Din l-Art Óelwa and<br />
Nature Trust were selected and both agreed that<br />
Gaia should also be asked to join since they had<br />
considerable expertise in the area.<br />
A supervisory board was set up by legal<br />
notice with three Government members<br />
(representatives from the Ministry for<br />
Environment and Rural Affairs, the Lands<br />
Department and MEPA), the three NGOs, and<br />
an independent Chairman. The choice of the<br />
chairman was also auspicious as Dr Stanley<br />
Zammit, who was appointed, had earned<br />
considerable respect from NGOs when he was<br />
Parliamentary Secretary for the Environment<br />
some years previously.<br />
The Management of the park was to be<br />
carried out by the NGOs and the Heritage<br />
Parks Federation was founded specifically for<br />
this purpose.<br />
The <strong>Malta</strong> Independent
The supervisory Board started meeting<br />
in earnest and has to date concluded an<br />
extensive consultation process. Earlier this year<br />
the Government gave over e116,000 to the<br />
Heritage Parks Federation, and steps could now<br />
be taken for concrete action to start. Two rangers<br />
have been employed and some clean-ups have<br />
started. However the main issue is uncontrolled<br />
access by vehicles to the area which are destroying<br />
the garigue and aggravating the dumping<br />
problem, and at the time of going to press this<br />
issue was in the process of being resolved, again<br />
through a consultative approach.<br />
It is hoped that once access is restricted to<br />
pedestrians, cyclists and limited vehicular access<br />
by farmers who have land in the area, progress<br />
in rehabilitating the damaged natural habitats<br />
can start in earnest.<br />
<strong>Malta</strong> stands much to gain. The environmental<br />
benefits are clear, but spin-off benefits, not least<br />
improving the tourism product, are immense<br />
importance. It will also guarantee that the area<br />
remains in a pristine state for this and future<br />
generations to enjoy.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon
NATURE WALKS AT IL-MAJJISTRAL<br />
natUrE and History Park<br />
Nature walks Guide at Il-Majjistral Nature and History Park<br />
Web: www.majjistral.org Email: walks@majjistral.org<br />
For the keen rambler, the Northwest of <strong>Malta</strong><br />
does not need much in way of introduction. It<br />
offers unique sea and landscapes, a sense of<br />
wilderness and some truly inspiring walks. One<br />
of the greatest assets of the Maltese Islands is that<br />
despite the small size, they feature a wide variety<br />
of changing landscapes – and the northwest area<br />
of <strong>Malta</strong> is certainly no exception.<br />
Guided walks at Il-Majjistral Nature and<br />
History Park started on a regular basis in February<br />
2008 – an initiative which is popular both with<br />
locals as well as foreigners. The standard guided<br />
walk, 6km in length, is easy going and takes<br />
about 2.5hrs starting and ending at Golden Bay.<br />
Walks are normally held on Sundays and must<br />
be pre-booked two weeks in advance on walks@<br />
majjistral.org – the route can be seen on http://<br />
www.majjistral.org/guided_walk.html<br />
View towards Majjistral Park and Il-Qammie˙ from Ras il-Pellegrin<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
A walk in the park.<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Svetlana Vella Agafonycheva
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
The Guided Walk<br />
Exploring the whole area well would take<br />
much more than two hours… so the guided<br />
walk aims to take in some of the highlights of this<br />
area: an area which is predominantly natural<br />
but which has, however, its share of man-made<br />
features including those of historical value.<br />
Starting from Il-Kamp ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a –<br />
used in the past as military training grounds for<br />
the Territorials – one can get a good view of the<br />
inland ridges, the Knights’ coastal towers and<br />
Ir-Ramla tal-Mixquqa.<br />
Garigue - nature’s rock gardens are rich in plant diversity.<br />
the unique features of the area – queen amongst<br />
which is the clayey headland of Il-Karraba,<br />
stubbornly resisting millennia of restlessly<br />
pounding waves whilst surrounding bays have<br />
given in to erosion and are now some of the most<br />
popular sandy beaches of the islands. These<br />
include the protected area of G˙ajn Tuffie˙a,<br />
managed by the Gaia Foundation, and Golden<br />
Bay with its rare sand dune remnants.<br />
Proceeding on the walk up the limestone<br />
plateau of Ix-Xag˙ra tal-Majjiesa with its<br />
windswept and sunbleached rocky outcrops<br />
Learning about nature - students from Stella Maris College.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Keith Buhagiar
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Salt steppe at il-Prajjet.<br />
one can appreciate some of the hardiest plants<br />
making up the garigue – an infinite array of<br />
natural miniature “rock gardens”. It is here, in<br />
this most undervalued of habitats, that many<br />
medicinal and also endemic plants grow mostly<br />
in the form of small, low-lying evergreen shrubs<br />
or bulbous plants.<br />
Fissures in the limestone plateau as a result of underlying clay.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
The Rdum at Ras il-Wa˙x and the rock cut cave seen from below.<br />
At the uppermost tip of this plateau an<br />
unexpected rock-cut room stands guard<br />
over the western horizon in a privileged<br />
position witnessing the most amazing sunsets.<br />
Overlooking the mysterious Ras il-Wa˙x are the<br />
Rdum which give us the unique characteristic of<br />
our landscape.<br />
Upper Coralline boulders which collapsed from the plateau of<br />
Il-Majjiesa.<br />
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
The massive trunk of an old fig tree<br />
anchors amidst a sea of boulders.<br />
Favourite haunt of our National Bird, the<br />
Blue Rock Thrush, and of many plants, the<br />
wild backdrop of this coast is heavily sprinkled<br />
with huge boulders. Do not be deceived by the<br />
Left: Blue Clay creeping outwards beneath the Upper Coralline<br />
Limestone and causing its subsidence. Top: Boulders rest at sea.<br />
The lush green in sheltered Rdum areas provides a contrasting<br />
habitat to the plateau garigue.<br />
apparent strength of the harsh limestone – it is<br />
the underlying Blue Clay layer which has the last<br />
word here as it causes the definite separation of<br />
the Upper Coralline Limestone forcing it away<br />
10 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Rock cut stairway at Rdum Majjiesa.<br />
Il-MinΩel.<br />
from its dominant position to come tumbling<br />
down towards the sea.<br />
The two extremities of the park in fact, hold<br />
between them this most secret and inaccessible<br />
of all Maltese landscapes – the wild, labyrinthine<br />
Rdum – the last place where one would expect to<br />
find any human impact. But yet, tiny patches of<br />
land were also worked down here with complex<br />
dry stone wall systems for sheltering vines and<br />
fruit trees. At various spots hidden in the cliff one<br />
can encounter the minΩel – old rock cut stairways<br />
leading down into the boulder scree.<br />
An eroded path leads downwards now in full<br />
view of the rest of the coast leading to Irdum<br />
id-Delli, capped by Il-Qammie˙ as the last of<br />
<strong>Malta</strong>’s ridges and the majestic Ta’ Çenç cliffs<br />
in Gozo as a backdrop.<br />
Walking towards G˙ajn Ûnuber and turning<br />
inland next to a wartime military structure, one<br />
is instantly transported to a different context<br />
captured best within the spirit of the Maltese<br />
Corbelled Stone hut (Girna) – a glimpse back<br />
into traditional rural <strong>Malta</strong> with patchworks of<br />
cultivated land with their backs to the Mistral<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 11<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Archway set in the dry stone walled fields.<br />
wind and facing the more sheltered and fertile<br />
valley of Il-MiΩieb.<br />
Here one cannot help but heave a sigh of relief<br />
at the shelved projects which were to see the<br />
arching back of ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra developed<br />
as a golf course.<br />
The Girna - tradtional corbelled stone hut.<br />
View from Ta’ Ciantar.<br />
Passing by an old farmhouse one can retrace<br />
one’s steps back to Golden Bay or opt for a more<br />
interesting route by walking towards Manikata,<br />
past the cart ruts on the limestone outcrops<br />
and walking through the now uninhabited old<br />
settlement of ir-Razzett tal-Qasam – another<br />
restoration project is in the pipeline here and is<br />
spearheaded by the Manikata Rural Cooperative<br />
and the Mellie˙a Local Council.<br />
Other walking possibilities in the area<br />
The walk described above can easily be<br />
extended to take in more of the Park – heading<br />
towards the G˙ajn Ûnuber / Ta’ Ciantar Tower<br />
there is an easy and short route to Il-Prajjet<br />
(Anchor Bay) along a country road – another<br />
1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Giren dot the rural inland landscape.<br />
similar road passes parallel to it and can be used<br />
to return to the same spot. Alternatively one<br />
can opt to walk to Mellieha Bay which is just a<br />
kilometre away.<br />
For the more adventurous, a walk in the<br />
boulder scree offers a completely different<br />
landscape. There are three main access points<br />
to descend into the rdum – along Rdum Majjiesa<br />
and further north along Rdum id-Delli – there<br />
are traces of rough footpaths but these are often<br />
hard to find and may entail some clambering<br />
over and in between boulders. The landscape is<br />
intriguing, mysterious and ever-changing – but<br />
Small fields and old vines bear witness to a longtime<br />
agricultural activity in the area.<br />
to be traversed with due respect and with a light<br />
tread as it is home to many rare species which<br />
have found in this habitat their last refuge.<br />
The fertile valley bed. Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra - living up to its name!<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
The abandoned settlement at Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam. Dreamlike atmosphere of days gone by at Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam.<br />
Visiting the medieval settlement of Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam. The track leading to Il-Prajjet.<br />
Looking inland towards Mellie˙a’s valleys.<br />
Acknowledgements<br />
Din l-Art Óelwa www.dinlarthelwa.org<br />
Gaia Foundation www.projectgaia.org<br />
Nature Trust <strong>Malta</strong> www.naturetrustmalta.org<br />
Mario Cardona and Veronica Farrugia,<br />
Koperattiva Rurali Manikata www.manikatafarmers.com<br />
Ramblers Association of <strong>Malta</strong><br />
www.ramblersmalta.jointcomms.com<br />
Antoine Gatt<br />
The uniqueness of the rdum habitat is best experienced<br />
at close range.<br />
1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon
FLORA OF IL-MAJJISTRAL NATURE AND<br />
HEritagE Park<br />
Steve Bonello, Jeffrey Sciberras and Annalise Falzon<br />
Il-Majjistral Nature and History Park,<br />
situated in the locality of Mellie˙a and extending<br />
from Ir-Ramla tal-Mixquqa (Golden Bay) to<br />
Il-Prajjet (Anchor Bay) offers the visitor an<br />
insight into some of the most interesting land<br />
and seascape features and unique coastal views<br />
along the Northwest of <strong>Malta</strong> and beyond to<br />
Gozo’s majestic southern cliffs. The sheer sense<br />
of wilderness and open space here is enough<br />
justification for it to be granted status as a<br />
protected area.<br />
striking with an expanse of aromatic garigue,<br />
cultivated land, valleys and extensive plateaux.<br />
The Majjistral Boulder Scree<br />
Certainly the most visually dramatic area of<br />
the Majjistral Park must be the vast boulder<br />
fields lying between the upper cliff faces and the<br />
One of the greatest assets of the Maltese<br />
Islands is that despite their small size, they<br />
feature a wide variety of changing landscapes<br />
– and the northwest area of <strong>Malta</strong> is certanly<br />
no exception. The coast often steals the show<br />
with the most striking sunsets experienced<br />
from Rdum Majjiesa whilst the daytime attracts<br />
people to its sandy beaches surrounded by sand<br />
dune remnants with very rare plants, the wilder<br />
boulder screes, rolling clay slopes, cliffs and tiny<br />
hidden bays. But the inland views are no less Boulder Scree.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />
Custom Aerial Photos<br />
Steve Bonello
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Rdum habitat.<br />
seashore, stretching all the way from Ir-Ramla<br />
tal-Mixquqa (Golden Bay) to Rdum id-Delli – a<br />
distance of some three kilometres. This coast<br />
which can seem so harsh to some is conversely<br />
attractive to many species for which this is the<br />
last relatively undisturbed land they can inhabit.<br />
This is an area of very rough terrain in places<br />
and not an easy one to navigate – though various<br />
footpaths do criss-cross this vast and somewhat<br />
hostile area. Close exploration does however<br />
have its rewards – primarily in the area’s stunning<br />
vistas and the rich floral biodiversity featuring<br />
an array of representative species of garigue,<br />
boulder scree and clay slope habitats – one of<br />
the best refuges for a wide variety of flora and<br />
fauna and is indeed considered as constituting<br />
a unique biological community.<br />
Clifftop boulders detached from the plateau.<br />
The uniqueness of this terrain is owed to the<br />
peculiarity of its formation – the Upper Coralline<br />
Limestone which caps many hills, forms a plateau<br />
resting on an unstable, and somewhat mobile<br />
substrate – Blue Clay. This impermeable layer<br />
becomes saturated with rainwater and slides<br />
down forming slopes. The overlying limestone<br />
loses its foothold and its weight becomes its<br />
downfall as boulders detach and tumble down<br />
to the coast, often resting in precarious positions<br />
whilst at other times continuing their headlong<br />
path straight down to the sea.<br />
Shrubby Crown Vetch.<br />
Characteristic of the southernmost part of<br />
the boulder scree is <strong>Malta</strong>’s largest population<br />
of the rare Shrubby Crown Vetch (Coronilla<br />
valentina), a small bushy species which erupts<br />
in very fragrant yellow flowers in early<br />
springtime. In the Maltese Islands this species<br />
is confined to a very few seaboard cliff sites,<br />
and occurs inland only in one or two locations;<br />
the population at Majjistral is certainly the<br />
most beautifully sited. Other highly interesting<br />
species include a very small copse of the rare<br />
Chaste Tree (Vitex agnus-castus), and recently<br />
recorded small but significant populations of<br />
the Southern Dwarf Iris (Iris pseudopumila)<br />
and the very rare endemic and protected<br />
Maltese Toadflax (Linaria pseudolaxiflora) 1 , a<br />
species of European Importance, and the rare<br />
Evergreen Traveller’s Joy (Clematis cirrhosa).<br />
1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Southern Dwarf Iris.<br />
Other predominant species in the area include<br />
the Wild Honeysuckle (Lonicera implexa), the<br />
Wolfbane (Periploca angustifolia), the endemic<br />
Maltese Spurge (Euphorbia melitensis) and<br />
the Egyptian St. John’s Wort (Hypericum<br />
aegypticum).<br />
The aquifer formed as a result of the<br />
impermeability of the Blue Clay stratum gives<br />
rise to some freshwater springs which are often<br />
demarcated by the presence of the Great Reed<br />
(Arundo donax). Under several large boulders,<br />
fresh water or brackish rock pools also occur.<br />
These rock are usually surrounded by Sea Rush<br />
(Juncus maritimus).<br />
Tree species include the Olive (Olea europea),<br />
Carob (Ceratonia siliqua), the Fig (Ficus carica),<br />
Almond (Prunus dulcis), the Tamarisk (Tamarix<br />
africana) as well as some fruit trees. Interestingly<br />
some wild vines testify the traditional agricultural<br />
use of even the smallest patch of soil – a practice<br />
still in use today in some parts of the park..<br />
The vast boulder scree area also contains<br />
pockets of garigue habitat. In this area one can<br />
find characteristic orchid species like the Bumble<br />
Bee (Ophrys bombyliflora), the endemic Maltese<br />
Pyramidal (Anacamptis urvilleana), the Scented<br />
Bug Orchid (Orchis fragrans), the Tongue Orchid<br />
(Serapias parviflora) as well as the Maltese Spider<br />
Scented Bug Orchid.<br />
Egyptian St. John’s Wort. Maltese Spider Orchid.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Steve Bonello
Jeffrey Sciberras Annalise Falzon<br />
Orchid (Ophrys melitensis) and the Common<br />
Pyramidal (Anacamptis pyramidalis).<br />
In some flat plain areas along the coast of the<br />
boulder scree certain patches are dominated by<br />
the Fringed Rue (Ruta chalepensis) accompanied<br />
by the small low creeping Kidney Bladder Vetch<br />
(Tripodion tetraphyllum). Large boulders are<br />
host habitats for the common endemic Maltese<br />
Fleabane (Chiliadenus bocconei) and for the Sea<br />
Bushy Restharrow.<br />
Black Bryony.<br />
Samphire (Crithmum maritimum).<br />
The rocky outcrops in this northern outpost<br />
of the park boast some good populations of Wild<br />
Honeysuckle, Yellow Kidney Vetch (Anthyllis<br />
hermanniae), as well as small pockets of the rare<br />
climbing Black Bryony (Tamus communis).<br />
Also of note in the higher parts above the scree<br />
is a small population of the Bushy Restharrow<br />
(Ononis natrix ssp. ramosissima) a plant which<br />
although quite common on the sister islands<br />
of Gozo and Comino is very rare on mainland<br />
<strong>Malta</strong>. This plant has the curious distinction<br />
of being <strong>Malta</strong>’s oldest protected species, since<br />
at the time of Grandmaster De Rohan’s rule a<br />
decree had been issued banning its collection<br />
for firewood prior to a fortnight after the feast<br />
of St.John, in order to allow for seed formation<br />
and dispersal.<br />
Clay Slopes<br />
The clay slopes lying amid the boulder fields<br />
in the south of the area between Mixquqa and<br />
Ras il-Wa˙x are home to the only significant<br />
1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
Steve Bonello<br />
population of Fagonia cretica on the islands. This<br />
is a prostrate spiny plant which produces masses<br />
of small purple flowers from January until March.<br />
Curiously this plant does not occur anywhere else<br />
in the Maltese Islands except for a tiny population<br />
at Il-Karraba in G˙ajn Tuffie˙a.<br />
The northernmost part of the area, known<br />
as Irdum id-Delli features beautiful clay slopes<br />
dominated by Esparto Grass (Lygeum spartum).<br />
The Garigue Expanses<br />
Fagonia cretica. Clay slopes at Rdum id-Delli.<br />
Further up the limestone plateaux, including<br />
the much disputed Xag˙ra l-Óamra, are<br />
dominated by garigue on sparse soil with low<br />
lying shrubs facing the prevailing northwestern<br />
Maltese Spurge.<br />
winds, or by rocky steppe. And this windswept<br />
land, with its deceptively “barren” appearance<br />
in the dry season, is in reality adorned by the<br />
most exquisite orchids with a total of nine species<br />
recorded from the area. It is often in the winter<br />
and spring that most of the habitats come to<br />
life – although early summer is also similarly<br />
rewarding with the Maltese Spurge (Euphorbia<br />
melitensis) creating a unique reddish mosaic of<br />
leaves that would seem more akin to autumnal<br />
colours. Is is then the time of the Wild Thyme<br />
to flourish and spread its scented carpet of lilac<br />
flowers.<br />
The Upper Coralline Limestone Plateaux of<br />
the park area are identical to garigue habitat,<br />
with short-lived temporary freshwater pools<br />
in winter, and interspersed with stretches of<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Steve Bonello
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Maltese Spurge changing colour – a stark contrast<br />
with the evergreen Thyme.<br />
dry stone walls and cultivated or abandoned<br />
parcels of land. Recently disturbed areas show<br />
a low level of biodiversity, while long abandoned<br />
disturbed sites tend to develop their own unique<br />
well established natural ecosystems. An example<br />
Maltese Pyramidal Orchid reclaiming abandoned fields.<br />
of the latter is the Maltese Pyramidal Orchid’s<br />
tendency to re-establish itself in abandoned<br />
cultivated land on the garigue.<br />
The southermost parts of the plateau are<br />
mainly characterised by the Shrubby Kidney<br />
Vetch (Anthyllis hermanniae), a very hardy, spiny<br />
shrub which is completely covered in small yellow<br />
flowers in late spring and the silvery shrub Oliveleaved<br />
Bindweed (Convolvus oleiolfolius) which<br />
flowers in spring and becomes bare in summer.<br />
A prostrate relative, which is quite rare in this<br />
area is the Field Bindweed (Convolvus althaeoides<br />
ssp.tenuissimus) a very hairy subspecies when<br />
compared to the more common ssp althaeoides.<br />
Rarely seen in open sunny cliff edge areas since<br />
it is mainly a maquis inhabitant, is the Yellow<br />
Germander (Teucrium flavum). This plant is<br />
immediately identifiable by its glossy leaves or<br />
by its faint gum-like odour.<br />
Mediterranean Hartwort.<br />
Longstanding disturbance in this area has<br />
created a community consisting mostly of<br />
low growing annuals, co-existing with small<br />
bulbous perennials. These include species such<br />
as Pygmy Cudweed (Evax pygmea), Annual<br />
Hyoseris (Hyoseris scabra), Common Reichardia<br />
(Reichardia picroides), Wild Clary (Salvia<br />
verbenaca) Mediterranean Hartwort (Tordylium<br />
apulum), Clustered Sulla (Hedysarum spinossimun<br />
ssp capitatum), Storkbill (Erodium moschatum and<br />
Erodium malacoides), Sand-crocuses (Romulea sp.),<br />
Barbary Nut Iris and Mediterranean Meadow<br />
Saffron (Colchicum cupani). Medium sized<br />
annuals and biennials also occur here, such as<br />
Pale Bugloss (Echium italicum) which resembles a<br />
miniature Christmas tree when it dries up, and<br />
the Yellow Horned-Poppy (Glaucium flavum).<br />
The eastern edge of this area, where disturbance<br />
is most pronounced is dominated by the Greater<br />
Snapdragon (Anthirrinum tortuosum). This species<br />
0 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Jeffrey Sciberras
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Mediterranean Meadow Saffron.<br />
is also accompanied by the Large Blue Alkanet<br />
(Anchusa azurea) especially throughout the<br />
border of this park.<br />
A path leading inland has been somehwat<br />
taken over by several alien species such as the<br />
Chasmanthe (Chasmanthe bicolor), Aeonium<br />
(Aeonium arboreums) and Prickly Pear (Opuntia<br />
ficus indica). In contrast there are several rare<br />
indigenous species such as the Sicilian Squill (Scilla<br />
sicula) and Kundmannia (Kundmannia sicula)<br />
which looks like a cross between the common<br />
fennel and celery. Other naturally found species<br />
include the Mediterranean Thyme (Thymbra<br />
capitata), Blue Stonecrop (Sedum caeruleum) and<br />
Mediterranean Stonecrop (Sedum sediforme) as<br />
Sicilian Squill.<br />
well as a few Lesser Snapdragons (Misopates<br />
orontium) which have bluish leaves and very small<br />
pink flowers, a species on the increase. Shaded<br />
areas are populated by Caper (Capparis orientalis),<br />
Pellitory-of-the-wall (Parietaria judaica) and Wild<br />
Madder (Rubia peregrina). Some archaeophytes<br />
also occur such as the Carob Tree (Ceratonia<br />
siliqua) and Fig Tree (Ficus carica).<br />
Mediterranean Stonecrop.<br />
The plateau of Ix-Xag˙ra tal-Qortin is<br />
dominated by small shrubs of Shrubby Kidney<br />
Vetch, Mediterranean Thyme, Spiny Ox-<br />
Eye Daisy (Pallenis spinosa) and Spiny Chicory<br />
(Chicorum spinosum) the appearance of which<br />
resembles that of a hedgehog – hence its Maltese<br />
name Qanfuda. A few specimens of the Hoary<br />
Hoary Rock Rose.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 21<br />
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon
Jeffrey Sciberras<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Barbary Nut Iris.<br />
Rock-Rose (Cistus creticus) have been recorderd<br />
in this area 2 . In spring paths are covered by the<br />
small Barbary Nut Iris (Gynandriris sisyrinchium).<br />
The nearby Xag˙ra tal-Majjiesa comprises<br />
localised patches of garigue dominated by<br />
Wolfbane (Periploca angustifolia) a mainly north<br />
African species with very unusual succulent<br />
small greenish flowers, and by the endemic<br />
Maltese Spurge (Euphorbia melitensis) – often<br />
parasitised by the stubborn and fast-spreading<br />
reddish hair-like stems of the Dodder (Cuscuta<br />
epithymum). Some patches are dominated by the<br />
Mediterranean Heather (Erica multiflora) which<br />
Wolfbane pod and flower (inset).<br />
Southern Crupina.<br />
when in bloom is one of the most attractive pink<br />
flowering shrubs in <strong>Malta</strong>. Another attractive<br />
large shrub is the Evergreen Honeysuckle<br />
(Lonicera implexa) whilst a shrub which is scarce<br />
in this area but less so in other areas is the<br />
Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis fruticosa). Attractive<br />
alien species have also colonised this area such<br />
as the Freesia (Freesia refracta). The slender<br />
Southern Crupina (Crupina crupinastrum), which<br />
is quite a rarity, has also been recorded from the<br />
plateau and along a few paths.<br />
Non-shrubby species here include the very<br />
common Sea Squill (Urginea pancration) which<br />
grows leaves in winter, dries in summer and<br />
blooms (without leaves) in summer/autumn, the<br />
Wild Carrot (Daucus carota), the scarce Maltese<br />
Savory (Satureja microphylla), known for its use<br />
to cure people having intestinal calcium excess,<br />
and the Clustered Carline Thistle (Carlina<br />
involucrata).<br />
The flora at Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra also hosts<br />
most of the above mentioned species, with<br />
the addition of the dominant shrub Oliveleaved<br />
Germander (Teucrium fruticans), Eastern<br />
Phagnalon (Phagnalon graec0um ssp. ginzbergeri)<br />
and the Hispid Beard-grass (Hyparrhenia hirta).<br />
The Rdum id-Delli plateau is the highest<br />
plateau in the park but not the largest. It supports<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Steve Bonello
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon<br />
Large Star of Bethlehem.<br />
vegetation communities typical of garigue and<br />
steppe, regenerating garigue and garigue-clay<br />
slope transitions.<br />
The regenerating fields vary. Some are still in<br />
the steppic stage, with species like the dominant<br />
Pitch Clover (Bituminaria bituminosa), Southern<br />
Star Thistle (Centaurea nicaeensis), Beard-grass<br />
and Cape Sorrel (Oxalis pes-caprae). Regenerated<br />
garigue supports the Silvery Ragwort (Senecio<br />
bicolor) which is quite frequent, the Branched<br />
Asphodel (Asphodelus aestivus), the Large Star<br />
of Bethlehem, (Ornithogalum arabicum), which is<br />
sometimes unfortunately collected in bunches<br />
for decoration purposes, Southern Star of<br />
Bethlehem (Ornithogalum narbonense), dominant<br />
orchids such as the endemic Maltese Pyramidal<br />
Orchid and later on in the season the Common<br />
Pyramidal. The garigue of this area is equally<br />
dominated by the characteristic shrubby species<br />
mentioned before. However, in the transition<br />
area between garigue and clay steppes, one can<br />
find the rare Bushy Restharrow (Ononis natrix.<br />
ssp.ramosissima), the Common Sulla (Hedysarum<br />
cornarium), Silvery Ragwort and Grey Birdsfoot<br />
Trefoil (Lotus cystisoides) which is usually found<br />
very close to the sea.<br />
Valley habitat<br />
Wied ta’ Rdum leads down to Il-Prajjet from<br />
Ta’ Ciantar/G˙ajn Ûnuber – this is in fact one of<br />
the only places where the Ûnuber – Aleppo Pine<br />
(Pinus halepensis) – can be found growing in the<br />
slightly more sheltered low valley together with<br />
Tamarisk trees.<br />
Salt Steppe<br />
The coastal area towards il-Prajjet is an<br />
expanse of highly salt-tolerant plants forming<br />
a contrasting habitat to the garigue to the<br />
south – this salt steppe is dominated by Esparto<br />
Grass, Golden Samphire (Inula chritmoides) and<br />
Sea Squill, Maltese Sea Chamomile (Anthemis<br />
urvilleana) and Maltese Sea-Lavender (Limonium<br />
melitensis) and Sea-Heath (Frankenia hirsuta).<br />
Southern Star of Bethlehem. Salt steppe near Il-Prajjet.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
References<br />
An Ecological Survey of the Rdum il-Majjiesa area prepared<br />
for the GAIA Foundation, by E. Calleja, V. Gaydarova<br />
Calleja, May 2000<br />
EIS Xag˙ra l-Óamra and Tal-Qortin l/o Mellie˙a, Proposed<br />
Golf Course and Supporting facilities, Techincal<br />
Appendix 5: Ecology Baseline Survey, L. Cassar, S.<br />
Lanfranco obo MTA April 2006<br />
Flora of the Maltese Islands, a field guide. Hans Christian Weber<br />
and Bernd Kendzoir, Margraf Publishers, 2006.<br />
Maltese Sea Chamomile.<br />
Acknowledgements<br />
Arnold Sciberras<br />
Edwin Lanfranco<br />
Mario Cardona<br />
Endnotes<br />
1. Linaria pseudolaxiflora was first recorded from the area<br />
by one of the authors – Steve Bonello.<br />
2. Cistus creticus was first recorded from the area by one<br />
of the authors – Jeffrey Sciberras.<br />
Common name (English) Common name (Maltese) Scientific name<br />
Barbary nut iris Fjurdulis salva©© Gynandiris sisyrinchum<br />
Pale bugloss Ilsien il-fart abjad Echium italicum<br />
Yellow horned poppy Pepprin isfar Glacium flavum<br />
Mediterranean hartwort Óaxixet it-triera˙ Tordylium apulum<br />
Large Blue alkanet Ilsien il fart ik˙al kbir Anchusa azurea<br />
Greater snapdragon Papoççi ˙omor Antirrhinum tortuosum<br />
Lesser snapdragon Papoççi irqiqa Misopates orontium<br />
Maltese toadflax Papoççi ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Linaria pseudolaxiflora<br />
Maltese fleabane Tulliera ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Chiliadenus bocconei<br />
Yellow germander Bog˙rom komuni Teucrium flavum<br />
Olive leaved germander Ûebbu©ija Teucrium fruticans<br />
Olive leaved binweed Lebliet tal-blat Convolvus oleifolius<br />
Hairy mallow leaved binweed Leblieb tax-xag˙ri Convolvus althaieoides ssp. tenuissimus<br />
Fringed rue Fej©el Ruta chalepensis<br />
Carob Óarruba Ceratonia siliqua<br />
Sicilian squill G˙ansar ik˙al Scilla sicula<br />
Aeonium Kalluwa Aoenuim arboreum<br />
Wolfbane Si©ret tal-˙arir Periploca angustifolia<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
Bushy restharrow Broxka t’G˙awdex Ononis natrix ssp. ramossisima<br />
Hoary roack rose Çistu roΩa Cistus creticus<br />
Almond LewΩa Prunus dulcis<br />
Honey suckle Qarn il-mog˙Ωa Lonicera implexa<br />
Sulla Silla Hedysarum coronarium<br />
Clustered sulla Silla salva©©a Hedysarum spinossimun ssp capitatum<br />
Common Reichardia Qançlita Reichardia picroides<br />
Meadow Saffron Busieq Colchicum cupani<br />
Olive Ûebbu©a Olea europea<br />
Fig tree Tina Ficus carica<br />
African tamarisk Si©ra tal-bruk Tamarix africana<br />
Kidney bladder vetch Silla tal-bΩieΩel Tripodion tetraphyllum<br />
Southern dwarf iris Bellus Iris pseudopumila<br />
Maltese spurge Teng˙ud tax-xag˙ri Euphorbia melitensis<br />
Spiny chicory Qanfuda Chicorum spinosum<br />
Esparto grass Óalfa Lygeum spartum<br />
Sea sharp rush Simar tal-ba˙ar Juncus maritimus<br />
Hispid beard grass Hyparrhenia hirta<br />
Dodder Pittma Cuscuta epithymum<br />
Southern star thistle Xewk ta’ l-g˙otba Centaurea nicaeensis<br />
Silvery ragwort Kromb il-ba˙ar isfar Senecio bicolor<br />
Southern crupina Crupina crupinastrium<br />
Pitch clover Silla tal-mog˙oΩ Bituminaria bituminosa<br />
Cape sorrel Qarsu Oxalis pes-caprae<br />
Birds foot trefoil Qrempuç tal-xatt Lotus cystisoides<br />
Eastern phagnalon Lixka komuni Phagnalon graceum ssp. ginzbergeri<br />
Clustered Carline thistle Sajtun Carlina involucrata<br />
Branched asphodel Berwieq komuni Asphodelus aestivus<br />
Large star of Bethlehem Óalib it-tajr kbir Ornithogalum arabicum<br />
Southern star of Bethlehem Óalib it-tajr Ωg˙ir Ornithogalum narbonense<br />
Freesia FriΩja Freesia refracta<br />
Aleppo pine Ûnuber Pinus halepensis<br />
Mediterranean heath Erika Eika multiflora<br />
Maltese savory Xpakkapietra Satureja microphylla<br />
Blue stone crop BeΩΩul il-baqra Sedum caeruleum<br />
Mediterranean stone crop Sedum Sedum sedifome<br />
Wild madder Robbja salva©©a Rubia peregrina<br />
Pellitory of the wall Xe˙t ir-ri˙ Parietaria judaica<br />
Caper Kappar Capparis orientalis<br />
Sea samphire BuΩbies il-ba˙ar Crithmum maritmum<br />
Golden samphire Xorbett Inula crithmoides<br />
Shrubby crown vetch Koronilla Coronilla valentina<br />
Shrubby kidney vetch Óatba s-sewda Anthyllis hermannaie<br />
Thyme Sag˙tar Thymus capitata<br />
Annual hyoseris Ûigland Ωg˙ir Hyoseris scabra<br />
Wild clary Salvja salva©©a Salvia verbenaca<br />
Sand crocuses Ûag˙rani Romulea sp.<br />
Chaste tree Si©ra tal-virgi Vitex agnus-castus<br />
Kundmannia Kundmannia sicula<br />
Chasmanthe Chasmanthe bicolor<br />
Egyptian St. John’s wort Fexfiex tal-blat Hypericium aegyptium<br />
Black brony Bronja sewda Tamus communis<br />
Spiny oxy eye daisy G˙ajn il-baqra xewwikija Pallenis spinosa<br />
Wild carrot Zunnarija salva©©a Daucus carota<br />
Maltese sea chamomile Bebuna tal-ba˙ar Anthemis urvilleana<br />
Maltese sea lavender Limonju ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Limonju melitensis<br />
Sea heath Erba franka Frankenia hirsuta<br />
Sea squill G˙ansar komuni Urginea pancration<br />
Glandular stork bill Moxt Erodium malacoides<br />
Musk stork bill Óaxixa tal-misk Erodium moschatum<br />
Great reed Buda Arundo donax<br />
Jerusalem sage Salvjun Phlomis fruticosa<br />
Maltese pyramidal orchid Orkida piramidali ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Anacamptis urvilleana<br />
Common pyramidal orchid Orkida piramidali Anacamptis pyramidalis<br />
Maltese spider orchid Brimba sewda ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Ophrys melitensis<br />
Scented bug orchid Orkida tfu˙ Orchis fragrans<br />
Tongue orchid Orkida ta’ ilsiena Ωg˙ira Serapias parviflora<br />
Bumble bee orchid Na˙la Orchis bombylifora<br />
Fagonia Fagonja Fagonia cratica<br />
Evergreen traveler’s joy Kies˙a Clematis cirrhosa<br />
Pygmy cudweed Evaks Evaks pgymea<br />
Prickly pear Bajtar tax-xewk Opuntia ficus indica<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2
FAUNA AT MAJJISTRAL PARK<br />
A few months ago a substantial chunk of land<br />
which lies within the boundaries of what has now<br />
been designated the Majjistral Park was going to<br />
be completely taken over for the proposed mega<br />
golf course project. This move would have had<br />
devastating effects on the local landscape which<br />
eventually would have destroyed the entire<br />
ecological system present in the area.<br />
It was in September 2007 that the area in the<br />
northwest of <strong>Malta</strong>, which includes the coastal<br />
cliffs known as Rdum Majjiesa and Rdum id-<br />
Delli, as well as the site at Xag˙ra l-Óamra, was<br />
declared a National Park by the Government<br />
of <strong>Malta</strong> by Legal Notice becoming the first<br />
of its kind. The Park has taken the name of<br />
the region, the Northwest, or Majjistral in the<br />
Maltese language.<br />
The most recent boundaries proposed for<br />
the park extend from Golden Bay as far as<br />
Anchor Bay comprising all the coastal zones<br />
known as Rdum Majjiesa and Rdum id-Delli and<br />
extending inland to Xag˙ra l-Óamra up to the<br />
road passing by Manikata church; the park has<br />
an area nearly equal to that of Comino.<br />
Due to its varied nature the park hosts<br />
different habitats in which a large diversity of<br />
flora and fauna is encountered. A number of<br />
species are restricted to a specific habitat while<br />
the majority of species found in this region are<br />
cosmopolitan. Also while most of the species<br />
are resident in the park boundaries, visitors are<br />
encountered that generally are associated with<br />
other areas within the island and others reside<br />
from offshore. Since <strong>Malta</strong> is small all visitors<br />
from outside the island may be found in any<br />
location, i.e. species arriving from Europe or<br />
Africa may be found anywhere on the island but<br />
as a general rule most species as, for example,<br />
migrating insects from the African continent<br />
usually reach the island from the Wied Babu<br />
area (Ûurrieq) and in a few hours reach the park<br />
since it basically harbours the same cliff face.<br />
Since this area was put into focus a number of<br />
studies were conducted to analyse the ecological<br />
impact if most of the latter was transformed into<br />
a golf course and other amenities and these<br />
studies provided some of the first indications<br />
of how rich in biodiversity this part of <strong>Malta</strong> is.<br />
Arnold Sciberras<br />
All these studies can be easily accessed in the<br />
park’s official website www.majjistral.org. Since<br />
then several observations are continuously being<br />
carried out by naturalists most of whom are<br />
volunteers to accumulate data and increase the<br />
knowledge of the ecology within the site. This is<br />
also currently being done in other fields.<br />
This article is just browsing over some<br />
interesting macro fauna (small- to medium-sized<br />
animals) present or frequently recorded in the<br />
park from personal observations and will be<br />
dealing with species ranging from Arthropods<br />
to Mammals. Flora and birds are being excluded<br />
because they are being dealt with in separate<br />
articles. Most of the following fauna are eyecatching<br />
and the ecovisitor or nature enthusiast<br />
will search for and observe the following species.<br />
On the other hand the diversity in the park is<br />
so rich that to list all fauna is impossible due to<br />
studies in progress and would require volumes<br />
of work solely for this purpose.<br />
The first observations that indicated how rich<br />
the park is took place when the first cleanups<br />
started to be taken in hand. When old tanks<br />
replacing rubble walls started to be shifted large<br />
numbers of Common Earthworm (Allolobophora<br />
sp) sometimes having an unusually large size of<br />
more than 35cm were found under them. These<br />
are ecologically very important fauna as they<br />
play a significant role in soil fertility and aeration.<br />
Another annelid encountered in the park is the<br />
Blood Worm (Tubiflex sp) but although common<br />
its distribution is restricted since only a few<br />
rock pools and artificial reservoirs are present.<br />
This makes most of the local freshwater aquatic<br />
animals scarcer in this area.<br />
Where no alien fauna such as the Goldfish<br />
(Carassius auratus) is present freshwater life<br />
is extremely rich. While in the majority of<br />
natural rock pools there are seasonal periods<br />
for biodiversity to proceed in its cycle, most<br />
of the reservoirs contain water all year round<br />
and sustain numerous species of biota in them.<br />
Two types of rockpools were noted in the park,<br />
the most common being the small ones in open<br />
garigue which quickly dry up by late spring.<br />
The other types are deep (over 50cm) rockpools<br />
that collect water from the boulder scree that is<br />
sheltering them also from strong sunlight. Some<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
Arnold Sciberras<br />
Arnold Sciberras<br />
Painted Frog.<br />
of the latter have been modified over time by<br />
local farmers to sustain water almost all year<br />
round.<br />
Fauna expected in the first type of rockpools<br />
but till now never encountered in this area is the<br />
common Fairy Shrimp (Branchipus schaefferi).<br />
The more permanent rockpools sustain<br />
healthy populations of <strong>Malta</strong>’s only indigenous<br />
amphibian, the Painted Frog (Discoglossus pictus<br />
pictus), a number of Lesser Water Boatman<br />
(Corixa affinis) and minute species of Diving<br />
Beetles. In artificial reservoirs large numbers<br />
of Greater Backswimmer (Notonecta maculata),<br />
Large and Black Predacious Diving Beetles<br />
(Dytiscus circumflexus, Meladema coriacea) are<br />
present along with their prey the Water Flea<br />
(Daphnia pulicaria). The most attractive of all<br />
freshwater species are the adults of dragonflies<br />
and the delicate looking damselflies (collectively<br />
known as Odonata) which need a water body to<br />
lay eggs and for the nymph to live in. The park<br />
is one of the few localities in <strong>Malta</strong> where the<br />
Long Skimmer (Orthetrum trinacria) has been<br />
spotted and may be breeding in the vicinity.<br />
During migrations from Africa, the park is one<br />
of the first places to record large numbers of<br />
Lesser and Vagrant Emperors (Anax parthenope<br />
Scarlet Darter.<br />
and Anax ephigger). The recently naturally<br />
colonised Violet Dropwing (Trithemis annulata)<br />
breeds regularly in the area. The Scarlet Darter<br />
(Crocothemis erythraea) is the commonest species<br />
of dragonfly in this as in other places.<br />
In the vicinity of these cool areas one will<br />
generally encounter most of the mollusc species,<br />
the most common being the Edible Snail (Cantereus<br />
asperses), the Goat Snail (Cantareus apertus) and<br />
the Red-banded Snail (Eobania vermiculata). The<br />
Maltese Marmorana (Marmorana melitensis), an<br />
endemic species, is a common sight especially<br />
in summer when it gathers in large numbers<br />
in clumps on dry Common and Giant Fennel<br />
(Foeniculum vulgare, Ferula communis) stalks and<br />
A Daddy-Long-Leg Spider with its prey, the House Centipede.<br />
A Blue Bottle Fly.<br />
other vegetation to keep cool from the extreme<br />
heat that hits the ground. Its white shell also aids<br />
in bouncing back most of the heat waves that hit<br />
upon it.<br />
A large number of 13-15 cm size pale yellow<br />
Common Slugs (Limacus flavus) were found under<br />
remains of wooden doors during a cleanup and<br />
the latter seemed to be enjoying the humidity<br />
the rotten wood and all forms of paper offered<br />
in the vicinity. This species is known as being<br />
able to survive on anything even in this human<br />
litter. Companion species generally found in the<br />
same habitat of the latter such as on the humid<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2<br />
Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras
Arnold Sciberras<br />
walls of the stone corbelled huts (giren in Maltese)<br />
are the Common Millepede (Pachyiulus flavipes),<br />
Daddy-long-legs Spiders (Pholcus phalangioides)<br />
and other species) and the very active House<br />
Centipede (Scutigera coleoptrata) hunting for<br />
smaller insects such as House Flies (Musca<br />
domestica), Bluebottles (Calliphora vicina) and<br />
Moth Flies (Psychoda sp). On the ground of these<br />
huts if not covered completely with limestone<br />
blocks (çangatura in Maltese), Soil Centipedes<br />
(Himantharium gabrielis) are generally present in<br />
the fine soil as they search for the tiny beetle<br />
larvae.<br />
In the same kind of habitat but in a more<br />
natural state such as under loose rocks and in<br />
cracks present in most of the garigue of this<br />
area one finds several species of arthropods<br />
that are favoured by this environment. Several<br />
Woodlouse (Porcellio laevis, Chaetophiloscia<br />
elongata and other Isopoda sp) and Silverfish<br />
(Zygentoma sp) species can be encountered<br />
within the park followed and predated frequently<br />
by the brightly coloured 10cm Yellow Centipede<br />
(Scolopendra cingulata). A number of arachnids<br />
such as the Beady Spider (Steatoda paykulliana)<br />
and the minute pseudoscorpions species<br />
have also been recently encountered. The Pill<br />
Millepede (Glomeris distichella) is a beautiful black<br />
and orange coloured woodlouse-like structure<br />
myriapod and can only be distinguished from<br />
Isopods because of its colors and the fact that<br />
it has more legs which are longer than those<br />
of woodlice. The wingless Field Cockroach<br />
(Loboptera decipiens) and several Earwig species<br />
(Dermaptera sp) are also frequent neighbours<br />
within this environment.<br />
On the rocks and above, the invertebrate<br />
species list is countless ranging from<br />
inconspicuous terrestrial dwelling organisms<br />
to the beautiful coloured highly variable flying<br />
ones. The most common group of insects being<br />
Oak Longhorn Beetle.<br />
Egyptian Grasshoppers mating.<br />
encountered on the ground are the beetles.<br />
Up to now over 50 species of the latter have<br />
been recorded from the site. These include the<br />
common Tortoise Darkling Beetle (Alphasida<br />
grossa melitana), the Maltese Field Beetle (Pimelia<br />
rugulosa melitana), the heavy grass eater Common<br />
Oil Beetle (Meloe tuccius) and the Churchyard<br />
Beetle (Blaps gigas) being the largest flightless<br />
beetles locally.<br />
Desert Locust.<br />
Occasionally in the summer months the<br />
beautiful conspicuous Emerald Chafer (Protaetia<br />
cuprea incerta) is sometimes confused with a<br />
large hymenoptrin such as the Carpenter Bee<br />
(Xylocopa violacea) when with difficulty it lifts<br />
its body in the air and travels from one Wild<br />
Artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) to another to<br />
feed. The only flying coleopteroids that outsize<br />
the latter are the longhorn beetles, the largest in<br />
<strong>Malta</strong> being the Oak long horn (Cerambyx cerdo)<br />
which is a rare sight in the park. This may be<br />
due to the absence of its host plant, the Oak tree<br />
(Quercus ilex).<br />
The park provides an excellent environment<br />
for most of the ortopteroid species. About<br />
10 species of grasshoppers and 7 species of<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras
Arnold Sciberras<br />
crickets have been recorded here. These<br />
include the common Egyptian and Whitebanded<br />
(Anacridium aegyptium, Eyprepocnemis<br />
plorans) grasshoppers. The park is also one of<br />
the first to receive the migrating Desert Locust<br />
(Schistocerca gregaria). Blue-winged Grasshoppers<br />
(Sphingonotus coerulans) are a common sight in the<br />
summer period. Less frequently encountered is<br />
the Mediterranean Slant-faced (Acrida ungarica<br />
mediterranea). Most of the crickets are nocturnal<br />
such as the popular Two-spotted Field Cricket<br />
(Gryllus bimaculatus) but some are diurnal, a<br />
good example being the Green Bush Cricket<br />
(Phaneroptera nana). Other bugs are also being<br />
represented most commonly at their best by the<br />
bright red Soldier Bug (Spilostethus pandurus)<br />
and the noisy summer Cicada (Cicada orni).<br />
Lepidoptera observation is still in its infancy in<br />
this area but a rich diversity is promised; from<br />
ongoing observations it has already become<br />
evident that the beautiful Swallowtail (Papilio<br />
machaon melitensis) is showing an increase in<br />
population number.<br />
As the days tend to become warmer a<br />
constant battle may be observed on the flower<br />
heads. One clear cut example is between several<br />
species of crab spiders (Thomisidae sp), with<br />
flower beetles such as the White-spotted and<br />
Lobed Argiope weaving its web.<br />
Yellow-haired Barbary Bugs (Oxythyrea funesta,<br />
Tropinota squalida) trying to occupy the same<br />
space. Occasionally the huge web of a Lobed<br />
Argiope (Argiope lobata) may be seen bending<br />
two flower stalks.<br />
The number of vertebrate animal species is<br />
low in our islands but assumes extreme ecological<br />
importance. Reptiles like the Ocellated Skink<br />
(Chalcides ocellatus) and both of our local geckos<br />
Ocellated Skink.<br />
Moorish Gecko.<br />
Chameleon.<br />
A juvenile Western Whip Snake.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2<br />
Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras<br />
Arnold Sciberras
Arnold Sciberras<br />
Lesser Horseshoe Bat.<br />
(Tarentola mauritanica, Hemidactylus turcicus) are<br />
a common sight in the park as is the introduced<br />
chameleon (Chamaeleo chamaeleon). Both the<br />
Western Whip Snake and Cat Snake (Hierophis<br />
viridiflavus, Telescopus fallax) were encountered<br />
much more regularly than the ever decreasing<br />
Leopard Snake (Zamensis situla). Although the<br />
park is an ideal habitat for the endemic Maltese<br />
Wall Lizard (Podarcis filfolensis maltensis), it lacks<br />
the species as does all of the northwest of the<br />
island.<br />
The park is one of the best places for the Vagrant<br />
Hedgehog (Erinaceus algirus). Unfortunately<br />
several of these hedgehogs are run over by vehicles<br />
as they cross the many roads that go through the<br />
area. Wild rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) and the<br />
other four rodent species (Muridae sp) share the<br />
habitat and the surrounding agricultural fields<br />
while rarely a feast is made on the latter by the<br />
graceful Weasel (Mustela nivalis). Old remains and<br />
a few caves are home to the remarkable and silent<br />
Maltese Wall Lizard.<br />
Chiroptera species such as the Lesser Horseshoe<br />
and Mag˙reb Mouse Eared Bats (Rhinolphus<br />
hipposideros, Myotis punicus).<br />
<strong>Malta</strong> is rich in biodiversity and Majjistral is<br />
no exception and proves that where the land<br />
is still unspoilt (unfortunately a lot is) most of<br />
the biodiversity is at its best, and where already<br />
degraded, if given a chance, life will find a way<br />
and enable nature to regenerate. All we need<br />
to do is to protect this heritage from each other<br />
for each other by promoting education, raising<br />
awareness and giving a helping hand when<br />
needed. As for the rest we can just sit aside and<br />
let nature take its course.<br />
References<br />
CASHA, ALEX (2004). Where to watch birds and other wildlife<br />
in <strong>Malta</strong>. BirdLife (<strong>Malta</strong>)<br />
HASLAM, S.M. & BORG, J. (1998). The River Valleys of the<br />
Maltese Islands. The Islands and Small States Institute.<br />
SCIBERRAS, A. (2004). Put a sign to save a life. The Sunday<br />
Times. December 19 th p.15<br />
SCIBERRAS, A, SCIBERRAS J. & MAGRO, D. (2007).<br />
A Celebration of Dragonflies. The <strong>Malta</strong> Independent.<br />
November 19 th pp.8-9.<br />
www.majjistral.org - accessed 2.4.2008<br />
Acknowledgments<br />
Mag˙reb Mouse Eared Bat.<br />
The author would like to thank Jeffrey Sciberras, Annalise<br />
Falzon and Esther Schembri for their assistance in field<br />
work.<br />
The author is the Ranger of Majjistral Park.<br />
30 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Arnold Sciberras
ThE AvIFAUNA OF XAgÓRA L-ÓAMRA<br />
Due to the widespread trapping and hunting<br />
at Xag˙ra l-Óamra the avifauna of the area<br />
has, until fairly recently, rarely been studied.<br />
In all past ornithological works there is hardly<br />
any mention of the avifauna of the site. But<br />
in 2006 the <strong>Malta</strong> Environment and Planning<br />
Authority commissioned the preparation of an<br />
Ornithological Management Plan of the area<br />
with the main aim of identifying the breeding,<br />
migrating and wintering birds of ix-Xag˙ra l-<br />
Óamra (Borg 2006). The status of the species is<br />
based on the information which is available in this<br />
plan while the species’ behaviour, particularly<br />
related to their nesting habits, is based on<br />
Birdlife <strong>Malta</strong>’s publication Bil-Bejta! G˙asafar<br />
li jbejtu f’<strong>Malta</strong> (Sultana 1999). It is also based<br />
on an ornithological coastal zone management<br />
subject plan prepared at the request of MEPA<br />
(Sultana & Borg 2002).<br />
The extensive garrigue area, the rocky<br />
outcrops, the rdum-type habitat, the longuncultivated<br />
fields, and the scattered areas of<br />
agricultural land found at Xag˙ra l-Óamra<br />
provide a good habitat for several bird species<br />
Sardinian Warbler male at its nest.<br />
Joe Sultana & John J. Borg<br />
representing the four categories of the avifauna<br />
of the Maltese Islands – breeding birds, wintering<br />
birds, migratory birds and vagrants.<br />
Seven species of birds are known to breed in the<br />
area. These can be separated into two categories<br />
– resident species, such as the Sardinian<br />
Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), which is found<br />
all year round, and summer visitors such as<br />
the Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla),<br />
which arrives in spring, breeds in the area, and<br />
Short-toed Lark.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />
Joe Sultana Joe Sultana
Joe Sultana<br />
departs in autumn. One of the resident species<br />
is the Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius),<br />
the national bird of <strong>Malta</strong>, which is often seen<br />
frequenting rubble walls and rocky outcrops in<br />
the area. The species is present all year round,<br />
and one can frequently see it foraging for food<br />
or hear the male’s melodious song particularly<br />
in spring while in song-flight or from an exposed<br />
perch. A few pairs nest along the rocky coast<br />
mainly in a fissure or crevice in the cliffs. Nestbuilding<br />
starts in March and the first young<br />
birds may fledge in early May.<br />
The Short-toed Lark (Calandrella<br />
brachydactyla), is a bird which inhabits the open<br />
tree-less countryside, frequenting agricultural<br />
land and areas of garrigue. It finds the perfect<br />
habitat at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra. It arrives in late<br />
March and by the end of April it is already<br />
breeding in the area. It nests on the ground,<br />
building a nest in a small shallow hole, which the<br />
bird scrapes in the soil, generally in the shelter of<br />
a small plant, or even a stone, in the open rocky<br />
areas, as well as in fields, whether cultivated or<br />
not. Its persisting, high pitched but simple song,<br />
composed of a few notes, repeated over and over<br />
again, delivered while flying high in the air, is<br />
characteristic of the spring and summer days<br />
Spanish Sparrow male at its nest-hole.<br />
in the area. By the end of summer adults and<br />
juvenile birds congregate in flocks preparing to<br />
leave the area well before winter sets in.<br />
As expected, the area also hosts a large<br />
population of the commonest breeding species<br />
in the Maltese Islands, the ever-present Spanish<br />
Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis). Its breeding<br />
season starts in February and may continue all<br />
throughout spring and summer. Any spot will<br />
do for a nesting site – trees, electricity pylons,<br />
water-spouts, as well as holes and crevices in<br />
buildings, walls and cliffs.<br />
The two long-time breeding warblers of the<br />
Maltese Islands, the Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia<br />
melanocephala) and the Spectacled Warbler<br />
(Sylvia conspicillata), are also found all year<br />
round here, and in spite of having different<br />
habits and behaviour, both nest in the area.<br />
Whilst the Sardinian Warbler is a widespread<br />
species nesting in various types of habitats, and<br />
consequently the commoner of the two, the<br />
Spectacled Warbler, is a shy bird, and prefers<br />
secluded areas with low scrub. The latter was<br />
formerly a widespread species, but now it is<br />
thinly spread and confined to a few places which<br />
offer a quiet open countryside. Only three to five<br />
3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
Joe Sultana<br />
Spectacled Warbler female at its nest.<br />
pairs have been noted at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra in<br />
recent years during the breeding season.<br />
The Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis) started<br />
colonising the Maltese Islands in the 1970s and<br />
now is a resident breeding species and quite<br />
widespread, including at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />
It is a very small grassland bird, which builds a<br />
curious nest in the shape of a wide-necked bottle,<br />
usually well-knitted within a clump of high<br />
grass. In spite of being the smallest bird which<br />
nests locally, one cannot miss the male which<br />
is continuously uttering its “zip zip” call while<br />
patrolling its territory. The male is polygamous<br />
and may have more than one or two females. Up<br />
to 10 patrolling males have been counted in the<br />
area in recent years.<br />
Zitting Cisticola - female removing a faecal sac from the nest.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
The breeding population of the Corn<br />
Bunting (Emberiza calandra) has crashed in<br />
the Maltese islands in the past 15 years, with<br />
only a few pairs still breeding in Gozo and an<br />
even smaller number in the northern parts<br />
of <strong>Malta</strong>. One pair was still holding on at ix-<br />
Xag˙ra l-Óamra in the last five years. The use of<br />
pesticides, the ever-increasing leisure activities<br />
and presence of vehicles in the countryside,<br />
changes in agricultural practices, high predation<br />
by the Western Whipsnake and the increase of<br />
the rats’ population may have all contributed to<br />
this species’ decline. It would be most unfortunate<br />
if the characteristic spring song of the male is<br />
heard no more at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />
Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra is strategically located<br />
on the north-west coast of <strong>Malta</strong>, and forms<br />
part of a rift valley system, which includes cliffs<br />
and boulder screes. Given this location and<br />
its topography, the site receives considerable<br />
numbers of migratory birds of various species<br />
particularly during easterly winds. During<br />
the spring and autumn migration the area is<br />
important for migrants, especially for those,<br />
which have been brought down by adverse<br />
weather conditions. Such “falls” of migrant birds<br />
have been noted to occur here. ‘Coasting’ by<br />
many migrants is also noted to occur frequently<br />
during migration, when birds fly along the coast,<br />
either to shelter from winds or to settle for a rest.<br />
Whilst weather conditions affect the numbers of<br />
Joe Sultana
Joe Sultana<br />
Corn Bunting.<br />
migrants, there is always a consistent migration<br />
of birds through ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra both in<br />
spring and autumn. Although rocky ridges and<br />
coastal areas seem to be most favoured by bird<br />
species of open country, on migration all kinds<br />
of birds, even those which favour woodland and<br />
other types of habitats, are invariably recorded<br />
here.<br />
When the autumn movement of trans-<br />
Saharan migrants comes to an end another set<br />
of European birds start arriving to spend the<br />
winter in the area. These are the wintering birds<br />
which arrive in the Maltese Islands in autumn<br />
and depart in spring. Birds such as the White<br />
Wagtail (Motacilla alba), the Robin (Erithacus<br />
rubecula) and the Common Stonechat (Saxicola<br />
torqauatus), are those species, which generally<br />
spend the winter in the Mediterranean basin.<br />
These species are regularly recorded in the<br />
Maltese Islands and many of them stay for the<br />
entire winter until they return to European<br />
breeding grounds in March. Several species of<br />
wintering birds occur regularly at ix-Xag˙ra l-<br />
Óamra. The Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis),<br />
the Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), the<br />
Dunnock (Prunella modularis), the Blackcap<br />
(Sylvia atricapilla), as well as the Common<br />
Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita) are regularly<br />
present in the area during the winter months,<br />
and on fine days they all make their presence<br />
seen and heard.<br />
The setting up of a national nature park<br />
at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra, backed by a sound<br />
management plan, augurs well for the future of<br />
the avifauna of the area, particularly if the plan<br />
also affords full legal protection to the birdlife<br />
inhabiting the site. It is hoped that this project<br />
would safeguard the habitat of several vulnerable<br />
bird species, which should be provided with<br />
adequate protection. The safe presence of birds<br />
would greatly enhance this site of landscape and<br />
ecological importance<br />
References<br />
BORG, J.J. 2006. The Ornithology of the Coastal Zone of<br />
Xag˙ra l-Óamra. Management Plan. Unpublished report<br />
commissioned by MEPA.<br />
SULTANA, J. & GAUCI, C. 1982. A new Guide to the Birds<br />
of <strong>Malta</strong>. The Ornithological Society, Valletta.<br />
SULTANA, J. 1999. Bil-Bejta! G˙asafar li jbejtu f’<strong>Malta</strong>.<br />
BirdLife <strong>Malta</strong>, Ta’ Xbiex.<br />
SULTANA, J. & BORG, J.J. 2002. Coastal Zone Management<br />
Plan – Ornithology. Unpublished report commissioned<br />
by MEPA.<br />
3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
disCovEring CUltUral HEritagE<br />
AT ThE MAJJISTRAL PARK<br />
<strong>Malta</strong> is one of the most densely populated<br />
countries in Europe. It is increasingly being built<br />
up, covered with concrete and stone or plastered<br />
in tarmac, and in recent decades our open spaces<br />
have shrunk at an alarming rate. It is vital,<br />
therefore, that certain sections of the remaining<br />
countryside, such as the Majjistral Park, are<br />
preserved in as natural a state as possible, strictly<br />
designated as zones in which any further human<br />
intervention is ruled out, and that a concerted<br />
effort is made to rehabilitate areas within these<br />
zones which have become degraded.<br />
Here people are able to enjoy open spaces,<br />
to walk and ramble, cycle, enjoy the fresh air<br />
and learn about nature, and perhaps even feel<br />
a sense of ‘wilderness’ – a feeling which has<br />
become so rare to come across on our islands<br />
that I am sure that many of our children have<br />
never experienced it.<br />
Immersed in the beauty of nature, one is<br />
encouraged to relax and leave mundane routine<br />
View from Ta’ Ciantar.<br />
Petra Bianchi<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Trapping site being reclaimed back by nature’s bindweed.<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Experiencing the open spaces.<br />
and cares behind, and to begin to sense the slow<br />
movement of time. Repeated visits help create<br />
an understanding of the effect that the passing<br />
of the seasons has on the landscape, and the<br />
age and splendour of the ancient earth around<br />
us.<br />
Our national identity is partly dependent on<br />
sharing, in our national consciousness, the vision<br />
and appreciation of a familiar and unchanging<br />
natural setting and terrain. Changes in our<br />
urban landscape are taking place so rapidly, that<br />
the dwindling and fading countryside is playing<br />
an ever more central and necessary role in our<br />
self-perception.<br />
In truth, it is hard to find any corner of our<br />
natural landscape which has not been modified<br />
Country paths.<br />
Old cistern.<br />
Dry stone wall and archway at Rdum Majjiesa.<br />
Old stone stairways down to the Rdum.<br />
3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Hypogeum reused as animal pens.<br />
in some way by human hands. Embedded in<br />
every crack and fissure, there are strata of human<br />
history going back years, if not centuries. As<br />
people move through the landscape, or interact<br />
in some way with the countryside, they leave the<br />
traces of their traditions and activities behind<br />
them.<br />
The past traditions and activities of the<br />
landscape enrich our understanding of both the<br />
cultural history and the natural topography of<br />
the area. While any further new interventions<br />
in the Majjistral Park must now be excluded<br />
and various areas rehabilitated, however some<br />
of the existing cultural and rural features<br />
within the park should be preserved and<br />
appreciated.<br />
Various features of cultural interest that merit<br />
conservation lie within the boundaries of the Park.<br />
These features include cart-ruts, long rubble<br />
walls (dry stone walls), small old farmhouses, sets<br />
of beehives, tombs dating to the Classical period,<br />
natural caves, and numerous corbelled stone<br />
huts (giren in Maltese) traditionally used for both<br />
storage and shelter, all of which lie within and<br />
around the Park.<br />
There are also notable remains of British<br />
military architecture in the area, mainly dating<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Dry stone walls.<br />
Cart ruts towards Manikata.<br />
to the early twentieth century. Two large sets<br />
of military barracks used during the British<br />
period lie just outside the present confines of<br />
the Park, which were used for military exercises<br />
and training. A military shooting range also<br />
exists within the Park.<br />
A camouflaged Second World War pillbox<br />
exists near the Manikata area, and there is<br />
another in the G˙ajn Ûnuber area. During the<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Farmhouse complex and ancient hypogeum nearby.<br />
An old L shaped farmhouse with animal pens.<br />
Entrenchment and coastal towers in the background.<br />
First World War, wounded soldiers from the<br />
Battle of the Dardanelles (Battle of Gallipoli)<br />
were brought to a large hospital camp erected in<br />
the vicinity of the sandy beach for a quiet period<br />
of convalescence.<br />
Remains of cart-ruts (man-made grooves cut<br />
or worn into the natural rock), ancient stone<br />
quarries and megalithic walls also lie behind<br />
the interesting modern church in the village<br />
of Manikata, which was built in the early 1970s<br />
3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Military training ranges dating to the late British period.<br />
by the well-known architect Richard England.<br />
Undated cart-ruts also exist in other areas of the<br />
Xag˙ra l-Óamra plateau.<br />
On the two sides of the valley overlooking<br />
Golden Bay (ir-Ramla tal-Mixquqa), there are<br />
entrenchments built as part of a coastal defence<br />
system during the period of the Knights of St.<br />
John, in the early eighteenth century.<br />
The Majjistral Park lies along the coast,<br />
and is characterised by a rocky coastline which<br />
provides a rugged and steep interface between<br />
the land and sea, as well as the popular sandy<br />
beach ‘Golden Bay’. The coastline is a precious<br />
resource for a variety of marine-related activities,<br />
including tourism and recreation.<br />
The Park contains farmed agricultural land as<br />
well as an open garigue landscape with extremely<br />
high exposure to the strong elements of sun, sea<br />
and wind that prevail along the coast, reflected<br />
in the diverse varieties of hardy flora and fauna<br />
which survive in these harsh conditions.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
A wartime pillbox partially hidden in grass.<br />
The agricultural element is still widespread. A concrete pillbox.<br />
One of the many wartime gunposts.<br />
The cultural features of the area are intimately<br />
linked to the geographical landscape and terrain<br />
in which they are situated. The historian Fernand<br />
Braudel was among the first to emphasise that<br />
human history is intimately linked to geographical<br />
space, and that man’s relationship with the<br />
environment is central to the understanding of<br />
the unique social history of a place.<br />
Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon
Michael Falzon<br />
tHE girna: tHE MaltEsE<br />
CorbEllEd stonE HUt<br />
Girna (pl. giren or grieni) is the local name<br />
given to the corbelled stone huts which one<br />
comes across when walking in the countryside.<br />
These structures are much more common in<br />
the north and northwest of <strong>Malta</strong>; in the south<br />
and east of the island, as well as in Gozo, the<br />
girna rarely makes an appearance. The largest<br />
concentration of giren is probably that found in<br />
the area bounded by the Red Tower, Çirkewwa<br />
and L-A˙rax tal-Mellie˙a; the next largest is<br />
found in the area of G˙ajn Ûnuber, Il-Manikata<br />
and Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />
The girna is typically built on an outcrop of<br />
solid rock and is constructed with undressed<br />
stone found in the vicinity. No binding with<br />
mortar is used for the walls while the roof is<br />
An example of a round girna.<br />
Prof. Joseph M. Falzon<br />
usually covered with small stones, rubble and<br />
soil occasionally bound with ground potsherd<br />
known as diffun.<br />
The method of construction is that known as<br />
corbelling which is achieved by stacking rocks in<br />
circular courses, each course becoming smaller<br />
as it inches inward until it all comes together at<br />
the top, close enough to be topped by one or two<br />
large flat stones.<br />
Corbelling was probably the first solution to<br />
the problem of putting a permanent roof over<br />
a space, preceding the true arch by more than<br />
two thousand years.<br />
Most giren have a circular ground plan but<br />
0 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
Michael Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Girna interior showing corbelling.<br />
An example of a rectangular girna.<br />
one occasionally comes across a girna with a<br />
rectangular or square floor plan. The internal<br />
diameter of the round girna is rarely over 2.5m;<br />
the length and width of the rectangular girna<br />
only infrequently exceed 2.5m.<br />
The smallest girna recorded by Fsadni (1992)<br />
has a diameter of just over one metre while the<br />
largest measures just under five metres across.<br />
The latter apparently was never completed;<br />
perhaps the corbelling technique does not<br />
permit the bridging of such dimensions.<br />
In the old days the girna provided space for<br />
storing farm implements and shelter from the<br />
elements for farmer or goatherd. Some of the<br />
more sophisticated giren have niches, mangers<br />
and cupboard-like recesses in the wall.<br />
The large majority of giren are round and<br />
externally present as truncated cones.<br />
This particular shape is probably the oldest<br />
and goes back at least to the Bronze Age. Some<br />
archaeologists have argued that the Mnajdra<br />
temples show evidence of the use of the corbelling<br />
technique of roofing over a space. The technique<br />
is also observed abroad in other stone structures<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 41
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
of the Bronze Age as for instance in the nuraghe<br />
of Sardinia.<br />
The rectangular giren appear to be derived<br />
from the original round ones; internally they are<br />
interesting in the way that the square ground<br />
plan rises course over course evolving into a<br />
rounded dome. The larger giren have a double<br />
wall each made of larger stones with an infilling<br />
of rubble, soil and small stones. A number of<br />
the larger giren are ringed with a third wall<br />
used to buttress walls which could have shown<br />
an indication of possible collapse. There are<br />
two examples of such buttressing at Xag˙ra l-<br />
Óamra.<br />
Dating these structures presents problems as<br />
the method of construction has been virtually<br />
unchanged over thousands of years: some of<br />
those still standing could go back to prehistoric<br />
Square girna with massive cornerstones.<br />
times while according to Fsadni (1992) some<br />
were erected in the twentieth century, one as<br />
late as 1974 (p. 64).<br />
References<br />
FSADNI, MICHAEL O.P. The Girna: The Maltese Corbelled<br />
Stone Hut, Dominican <strong>Publications</strong>, <strong>Malta</strong>, 1992.<br />
CASSAR, PAUL. The corbelled stone huts of the Maltese<br />
Islands, in Man, April 1961.<br />
An example of buttressing. Girna interior showing capstone.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon
tHE Coastal and MarinE EnvironMEnt<br />
Despite having an area of just 2.6km 2 , which<br />
pales when compared with other European parks,<br />
the Majjistral Park in the northwest of <strong>Malta</strong><br />
boasts a total coastline length of approximately<br />
10km, which is equivalent to almost 4% of the<br />
total coastline of the Maltese Islands. Needless<br />
to say, therefore, the coastal environment merits<br />
a place in the limelight when describing the<br />
natural assets of the area.<br />
Most of the coastal area of the park (with the<br />
exception of the northernmost and southernmost<br />
fringes of the park) is dominated by rugged<br />
boulder screes, which owe their formation to<br />
the friable nature of Greensand (Rina) which is<br />
eroded, thus placing overlying rock formations<br />
(Upper Coralline Limestone – Qawwi ta’ Fuq)<br />
in jeopardy due to a lack of support. The UCL<br />
consequently tumbles down the cliff face, forming<br />
an impenetrable mosaic of boulders, some of<br />
which are bathed in seawater. Especially aweinspiring<br />
are the majestic boulders at Rdum id-<br />
Ramla tal-Mixquqa is an example of a pocket sandy beach.<br />
Dr. Alan Deidun<br />
Delli, where the process of boulder detachment<br />
is so extensive that wide gashes in the cliff face<br />
can be encountered.<br />
As a result of the shelter and relative<br />
inaccessibility from human disturbance that<br />
boulder screes offer, this specialized, minor (since<br />
not forming part of the sclerophyll successional<br />
series, such as steppe and garigue) habitat acts as<br />
an important refuge for many floral and faunal<br />
species, including many endemics. The elusive<br />
Blue Rock Thrush (Merill) is often observed<br />
ensconced amongst boulders. The overlying<br />
cliffs also support a diverse rupestral assemblage,<br />
despite the minimal amount of soil and the low<br />
nutrient levels that they present, with most of<br />
the local endemics finding their last foothold in<br />
such assemblages, presumably due to the lack of<br />
competition from other genres of species. Due<br />
to the high degree of exposure to wave action<br />
that rupestral assemblages are subjected to,<br />
most of the plants they harbour are halophytes<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4<br />
Dr Alan Deidun
Dr Alan Deidun<br />
Spanish Golden Thistle.<br />
and can withstand high salt loads, besides being<br />
able to conserve water, and are typical of coastal<br />
garigue areas. Examples of endemic plants one<br />
may encounter along the park’s cliffs include<br />
the Maltese Cliff Orache (Bjanka ta’ l-Irdum),<br />
Maltese Fleabane (Tulliera Selva©©a), Maltese<br />
Salt-Tree (Xebb) and Maltese Sea-Lavender<br />
(Limonju ta’ <strong>Malta</strong>), which mingle with more<br />
opportunistic species such as the Caper (Kappar)<br />
and the species of snapdragons (Papoççi).<br />
The Majjistral Park also nurtures a pocket<br />
sandy beach – that of Ramla tal-Mixquqa. Pocket<br />
beaches are typically flanked by headlands on both<br />
sides, which restricts longshore currents and the<br />
exchange of sediment and biota from one beach<br />
to another, and by their limited dimensions. The<br />
coastal geomorphology of the Maltese Islands is<br />
anomalous in that, whilst estimates of the global<br />
coastal extent of sandy areas range from 20%<br />
(Finkl, 2004) to 75% (Bascom, 1980), just 2.4%<br />
of the coastline of the Maltese Islands is sandy<br />
(Schembri, 1991).<br />
The beach is backed by dune remnants, which<br />
have been listed by Schembri (1991) as one of<br />
only five localities which supported dunes with<br />
a relatively intact characteristic dune vegetation<br />
community. In spite of this, the remnants show<br />
extensive symptoms of human degradation,<br />
ranging from trampling by occasional bathers<br />
seeking refuge from the sun, dumping of waste<br />
and the consequential spread of opportunistic/<br />
ruderal species such as the Giant Reed (Qasba)<br />
and the Hottentot Fig (Swaba tal-Madonna).<br />
Frequently encountered dunal plants on site<br />
include: Maritime Sea-Rocket (Kromb il-Ba˙ar),<br />
Sea Daffodil (Pankrazju) with its dazzling,<br />
unsullen-white flowers and distinct charcoal-like<br />
seeds, Spanish Edible Thistle (Xewk Isfar tar-<br />
Ramel), Sand Dropseed (Ni©em tar-Ramel), Sand<br />
Couch (Sikrana tar-Ramel) and Mediterranean<br />
Stocks (GiΩi tal-Ba˙ar) with their compelling<br />
deep purple flowers which have been extirpated<br />
from many other dunal areas. Cassar & Stevens<br />
(2002) assign the dune remnants at Ramla tal-<br />
Mixquqa a score of 3 for future prospects and for<br />
the state of the dunal vegetation on the arbitrary<br />
scale of 1-5 (with 1 being the lowest value and 5<br />
being the highest)<br />
Adaptations shown by dunal plants include<br />
the ability to withstand burial by sand, an<br />
extensive root/rhizome system which helps to<br />
stabilize the mobile sand substratum to render it<br />
more congenial for further vegetal colonization,<br />
seed dormancy and deep burial (in the form of<br />
tubers or bulbs) in some species, a resistance to<br />
a high salt load (also through the exudation of<br />
salt through specialized glands) and xerophytic<br />
The stunning Sea Daffodil (Pankrazju) flower.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Dr Alan Deidun
features to mitigate excessive loss of precious<br />
water, such as a thick cuticle, leaf rolling,<br />
hairiness and aromaticity.<br />
Several studies (e.g. Deidun et al., 2003;<br />
Deidun & Schembri, 2005) have also hinted at<br />
the ecological importance of unvegetated ‘bare<br />
sand’ communities (i.e. those found seawards<br />
of dunes), with a number of psammophilic<br />
(sand-specific) species being recorded from<br />
the beach at Ramla tal-Mixquqa, despite its<br />
popularity with locals and tourists alike during<br />
the bathing season. Some of these species are<br />
endemic ones, including the tenebrionid beetle<br />
Pseudoseriscius cameroni, which is even listed and<br />
protected under Annex II of the EU’s Habitats<br />
Directive. The resilience of these species can be<br />
attributed to their many adaptations, namely<br />
their nocturnal habit, their cryptic colouration,<br />
their polyphagous nature (i.e. their ability to<br />
exploit different food resources) and their<br />
ability to burrow, even to great depths, within<br />
the sand.<br />
The beach at Ramla tal-Mixquqa is also<br />
embellished with a small patch of shingle at one<br />
The rugged Rdum id-Delli stretch.<br />
end – conservation importance of such cobble<br />
beach pockets, which harbour their own distinct<br />
faunal assemblages, has been highlighted in the<br />
study by Gauci et al. (2005). Considerable seagrass<br />
amounts are beached at Ramla tal-Mixquqa –<br />
such wrack forms extensive accumulations<br />
known as banquettes, whose ecological<br />
significance cannot be gainsaid. In fact, such<br />
accumulations help fight beach erosion by<br />
trapping sand beneath them, are a useful source<br />
of organic input to the beach, may relay floral<br />
and faunal species from one beach to another<br />
through the phenomenon of rafting and harbour<br />
a disntinct suite of stenoecious (narrow-range)<br />
species, such as different species of wrack flies<br />
(some of which are endemic), centipedes and<br />
millipedes. Banquette assemblages have also<br />
been studied locally (Saliba, 2004).<br />
In view of the manifold ecological assets of the<br />
park’s coastal area, it is hardly surprising that the<br />
same area is peppered with scheduled sites – to<br />
mention just the most emblematic, the cliffs from<br />
Ramla tal-Mixquqa to il-Prajjiet are scheduled<br />
at Level 2 as an Area of Ecological Importance<br />
(AEI) by virtue of Government Notice 400/96<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4<br />
Dr Alan Deidun
Dr Alan Deidun<br />
The Star Coral - one of the many protected marine species.<br />
which schedules the entire western cliff flank of<br />
<strong>Malta</strong> from BirΩebbu©a to Mellie˙a. In addition,<br />
the sand dune remnants at il-Bajja tal-Mixquqa<br />
are also scheduled at Level 1 as an AEI and an<br />
SSI (Site of Scientific Importance) by virtue of<br />
GN 401/96.<br />
The marine area off the lower fringes of the<br />
park (to the south of Xag˙ra tal-Majjiesa) have<br />
been designated as part of the Rdum Majjiesa-<br />
Ras ir-Ra˙eb Marine Protected Area (MPA).<br />
The area was earmarked for the establishment<br />
of an MPA as it ‘is a representative of all major<br />
marine habitats and seascapes around the<br />
Maltese Islands’. In fact, within the precinct of<br />
the MPA, one can encounter a mosaic of the<br />
following marine habitats/biotopes: Posidonia<br />
oceanica (Neptune Grass) meadows, sandbanks,<br />
reefs Posidonia beds intermingled with patches of<br />
reefs and submerged or partially submerged sea<br />
caves. The seabed’s and substratum topologies<br />
are also highly diverse, with the gently-sloping<br />
seabed giving way to sheer drop-offs in other<br />
regions of the MPA, whilst a composite of<br />
different sediment grains sizes, ranging from<br />
mud to cobble, blanket the sea bottom.<br />
Besides the iconic Posidonia oceanica, the MPA’s<br />
precincts also feature a number of other protected<br />
species, including the Date Mussel (Tamra), the<br />
Noble Pen Shell (Nakkra), the Star Coral<br />
(Qroll tad-Dell) and different Sea fir species<br />
(Çistosejri). The conservation importance of<br />
the marine environment off the Majistral Park is<br />
underpinned through the inclusion, during the<br />
MPA’s zonation exercise, of an ‘Entry No Take<br />
Zone’, just to the north of Ramla tal-Mixquqa, for<br />
which free access is permitted for low-intensity,<br />
non-deleterious human activities, whilst the<br />
taking of species from the area is prohibited.<br />
References<br />
BASCOM, W. 1980. Waves and beaches. Anchor Press/<br />
Doubleday Publishing. New York, USA: 366pp.<br />
CASSAR, L., & STEVENS, D. 2002. Coastal sand dunes under<br />
siege, A guide to conservation for environmental managers.<br />
International Environment Institute. Foundation for<br />
International Studies. Valletta, <strong>Malta</strong>: 194pp.<br />
DEIDUN, A., AZZOPARDI, M., SALIBA, S. & SCHEMBRI,<br />
P.J. 2003. Low faunal diversity on Maltese sandy<br />
beaches: fact or artefact? Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf<br />
Science 58: 83-92.<br />
DEIDUN, A. & SCHEMBRI, P.J. 2005. The composition of<br />
the nocturnal motile fauna from the upper infralittoral<br />
fringe of sandy beaches in the Central Mediterranean:<br />
are there any implications for conservation? Biologia<br />
Marina Mediterranea 13 (1): 355 – 363.<br />
FINKL, C.W. 2004. Coastal classification: systematic<br />
approaches to consider in the development of a<br />
comprehensive scheme. Journal of Coastal Research 20<br />
(1): 166-213.<br />
GAUCI, M., DEIDUN, A. & SCHEMBRI, P.J., 2005.<br />
Faunistic diversity of Maltese pocket sandy and shingle<br />
beaches: are these of conservation value?, Oceanologia 27<br />
(2): 219-241.<br />
SALIBA, S. 2004. Aspects of the ecology of the faunal<br />
assemblages associated with wrack stranded on the Maltese<br />
shores. Unpublished MSc dissertation. University of<br />
<strong>Malta</strong>: 206pp.<br />
SCHEMBRI, P.J. 1991. Report of Survey: National Resources;<br />
<strong>Malta</strong> Structure Plan, Technical Report No. 5.4: vii +<br />
138pp.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
gEoMorPHiC ProCEssEs at<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL PARK AND ITS ENvIRONS<br />
Avertano Rolé, Geography Dept. University of <strong>Malta</strong><br />
avertano.role@um.edu.mt<br />
The newly designated Majjistral Park<br />
possesses a strikingly bare landscape which<br />
offers several opportunities for the observation<br />
of geomorphic processes. This landscape is quite<br />
varied but can be conveniently subdivided into<br />
three distinct units: a series of dissected Upper<br />
Coralline Limestone platforms, a coastal slope<br />
dominated by rock sliding processes, and two<br />
bays located at the northern and southernmost<br />
extremities of the park precincts. The severely<br />
indented character of the Park boundary is,<br />
unfortunately, not conducive to a holistic<br />
treatment of its geomorphology. For this reason,<br />
this article may consider processes which extend<br />
onto areas which are contiguous with the park.<br />
Geological Structure of the Majjistral Area:<br />
The most common surface rock exposed at the<br />
Majjistral site is the Upper Coralline Limestone.<br />
Geomorphology and geological structure at Il-Majjistral.<br />
This is largely characterised by an outcrop of<br />
Tal-Pitkal Member of this particular formation.<br />
Such a lithology makes up the flat, tilted<br />
platforms which dip towards the northeast. This<br />
geological formation is characterised by a dense<br />
crystalline limestone which is heavily jointed in<br />
most places. It weathers into typical limestone<br />
pavements interspersed with irregularly<br />
shaped depressions formed by solution. The<br />
accumulation of regolith in such depressions<br />
eventually develops into Terra Rossa soils and<br />
this accelerates solution since biological activity<br />
creates mildly acidic conditions in these hollows.<br />
Therefore, the dominating geomorphic process<br />
of such limestone platforms is typically karstic. It<br />
is interesting to note that the reddish tinge of the<br />
rocks in this area is due to the relatively higher<br />
content of iron oxide in the rock formation.<br />
Probably the most significant process in<br />
shaping Maltese landscapes is block faulting<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4
Annalise Falzon<br />
Typical limestone pavement developed over an Upper Coralline<br />
Limestone surface. Solution by rainwater produces depressions<br />
which are filled by poorly-developed Terra Rossa soils.<br />
and folding and this site is no exception. Much<br />
of the geological structure of the area owes its<br />
origins to block faulting and synclinal folding.<br />
This has created a series of horst and graben<br />
structures (ridges and troughs respectively)<br />
which extend north-eastwards from the park<br />
territory. The southern extremity of the park,<br />
composed of Golden Bay (Ramla tal-Mixquqa)<br />
is the westernmost extension of the graben<br />
structure which is better known as Pwales Valley.<br />
Further north, the Xag˙ra l-Óamra area is a<br />
western extension of Bajda Ridge. This, in turn,<br />
is separated from Mellie˙a Ridge by the western<br />
extension of the MiΩieb syncline. The net result<br />
of all this is a pleasantly undulating landscape of<br />
ridges and troughs.<br />
Faulting reveals some of the stratigraphic<br />
sequence which underlies the upper coralline<br />
formation and this is most evident along<br />
the coastal slope which forms the western<br />
margins of the park. Immediately below the<br />
Upper Coralline limestone formation, a very<br />
thin, discontinuous layer of greensand and<br />
foraminiferal packstone is often encountered 1 .<br />
This rarely reaches more than one metre in<br />
thickness but it plays an important geomorphic<br />
role since it weathers very easily. It is often at this<br />
Blue Clay is exposed along much of the shoreline. This rock is easily<br />
eroded and is often sparsely vegetated thus forming characteristic<br />
talus.<br />
elevation that the Upper Coralline limestone<br />
is undercut. Immediately below this layer, the<br />
Blue Clay formation outcrops almost the entire<br />
length of the coastal strip and forms distinctive<br />
clay slopes with their characteristic talus. The<br />
upper globigerina formation outcrops along a<br />
narrow littoral strip and at a lower elevation<br />
than the Blue Clay.<br />
Geomorphic Processes<br />
Geomorphology is the study of the processes<br />
which shape landscapes and such processes are<br />
starkly revealed at the Majjistral Park. Some<br />
of the more prominent processes are briefly<br />
discussed below:<br />
1. Cliff retreat: The western perimeter of the<br />
Xag˙ra l-Óamra platform ends quite abruptly<br />
and forms steep cliffs. This is partly due to<br />
the dense crystalline nature of the Tal-Pitkal<br />
member, which renders it relatively resistant to<br />
surface erosion, but this type of Upper Coralline<br />
Limestone, is locally weakened by deep joints.<br />
Regolith and incipient soils tend to accumulate<br />
in such joints and the subsequent growth of<br />
vegetation further contributes to widening of<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon
Annalise Falzon<br />
Block sliding along the Majjistral coast. Erosion of the upper<br />
coralline limestone can easily be seen in this photo. Whole sections<br />
of this formation have been detached from the plateau and are now<br />
sliding downslope to the shoreline. This is a typical Rdum shoreline.<br />
the joint. This process is accelerated by the<br />
undercutting of the softer underlying lithologies<br />
(including clay, greensands, and foraminiferal<br />
packstones) which destabilises the cliff face<br />
by reducing sheering stress. Eventually, large<br />
blocks detach and separate from the main rock<br />
body, sliding down towards the shoreline.<br />
2. Mass Movement – Block sliding: This process<br />
is closely linked with the process of cliff retreat<br />
discussed above. Once blocks of upper coralline<br />
limestone are detached, they are transported<br />
downslope by gravity. This process is greatly<br />
facilitated by the fact that the slopes are<br />
largely composed of clay and, when wetted by<br />
occasional rainstorms, these act as lubricated<br />
surfaces. Another factor which is important in<br />
such areas is that steep clay slopes are often<br />
sparsely vegetated and, therefore, there is little<br />
material along the slope to provide friction. Such<br />
slopes can be regarded as a slow, “geomorphic<br />
conveyor belt”, by which large boulders of upper<br />
coralline limestone are carried to the sea and<br />
form impressive boulder screes which extend<br />
right across the shoreline. This type of coastline is<br />
called Rdum in <strong>Malta</strong> and is quite common along<br />
this stretch of the coast; hence Rdum id-Delli and<br />
Rdum Majjiesa. The deposition of such boulders<br />
at the shoreline affords effective protection from<br />
wave action and serves to protect the shoreline<br />
from marine erosion.<br />
3. Cave Collapse and Circular Embayments:<br />
As in all other Karstic environments, Maltese<br />
geomorphology is influenced by solution<br />
features and collapse structures. These occur<br />
when rainwater dissolves the calcium carbonate<br />
contained in limestones and creates voids in the<br />
The deposition of boulders, along clay and globigerina shorelines, affords some protection to such friable coastlines from marine erosion.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4<br />
Avertano Rolé
Avertano Rolé<br />
Semi-circular indentations of the cliff-line often form through cave development and collapse.<br />
Shoreline cave development is evident on the left side of the photo.<br />
rock body. Caves eventually form by the widening<br />
of joints and the joining of anastamosing<br />
channels formed along bedding planes or<br />
other forms of weakness. Cave formation is<br />
largely dictated by groundwater hydrology and<br />
the presence of a perched aquifer in the area<br />
has contributed significantly to the formation<br />
of solution features. In several instances, the<br />
development of springs above an impermeable<br />
layer of clay accelerates undercutting of the<br />
upper coralline platform and contributes to<br />
cliff retreat. This often results in semi-circular<br />
indentations of the cliff line. At sea level, caves<br />
also form by a combination of factors including<br />
chemical weathering at the mean sea-level water<br />
table, as well as wave action. This produces<br />
semi-circular coves which are very common<br />
along this stretch of the coastline.<br />
4. Sediment Accumulation in Bays: The only<br />
significant sandy bay within the precincts of the<br />
park is Golden Bay (Ramla tal-Mixquqa). The<br />
location of the bay and the nature of its sediment<br />
indicate that the sandy beach originated from a<br />
mixture of terrestrial sediments and re-worked<br />
marine sands. Sandy bays are highly dynamic<br />
geomorphic systems and need to be appreciated<br />
as representing a dynamic equilibrium between<br />
fluvial, marine, and aeolian processes. Any<br />
one of these processes can dominate during<br />
particular episodes; like during a period of<br />
prolonged rainfall when large quantities of<br />
sediment are washed down into the bay. On the<br />
other hand, some factors play a stabilising role in<br />
such systems; dune vegetation assemblages play<br />
an important role in stabilising sand transport.<br />
In fact, Golden Bay possesses a relatively welldeveloped<br />
dune system and this requires careful<br />
management in order to ensure its survival while<br />
meeting the needs of recreational activity.<br />
This short discussion highlights the fact that,<br />
despite its small size, the Majjistral Park exhibits<br />
several examples of geomorphic processes. A<br />
deeper understanding of such processes should<br />
lead to a greater appreciation of the park by<br />
the general public. At the same time, such<br />
understanding should permit the continued<br />
development of more sensitive and sustainable<br />
managerial policies.<br />
50 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
Annalise Falzon<br />
Endnotes<br />
Ramla tal-Mixquqa (Golden Bay) forms the southern extension of the Majjistral Park. Intensive tourist, recreational,<br />
and agricultural development near this bay exerts considerable pressure on the natural environment.<br />
1. The revised geological map of <strong>Malta</strong> (OPM 1993) places<br />
the greensand layer within the G˙ajn Melel member<br />
of the Upper Coralline Limestone formation because<br />
of its patchy distribution and shallow thickness. One<br />
has to appreciate the dilemma faced by geologists<br />
when mapping sequences. Maps are two-dimensional<br />
surfaces while stratigraphic sequences are three-<br />
The widening of a joint (extreme left of the picture) leads to block<br />
detachment from the Upper Coralline limestone platform and<br />
incipient block sliding. The juxtaposition of these blocks often<br />
forms small tunnels, or caves, which afford particularly rare<br />
habitats for wildlife.<br />
dimensional phenomena. It is very difficult to represent<br />
a geostratigraphic layer on a map when it has been<br />
eroded into a cave-like structure and is overtopped by<br />
an Upper Coralline Limestone caprock.<br />
Fragment of a Clypeaster sea urchin fossil. These occur frequently<br />
within the Greensand formation and indicate that the sedimentary<br />
environment of this formation was a shallow sea prone to marine<br />
erosive processes.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />
Avertano Rolé Annalise Falzon
Custom Aerial Photos<br />
WindoWs to tHE nortH WEst<br />
When Peter the Great developed his vision<br />
for Russia he turned to the Western model of a<br />
modern state as a source of inspiration, opening<br />
a window to the West, and took his country out<br />
of isolation and into a new era.<br />
<strong>Malta</strong>’s entry into Europe is a similar<br />
experience, yet integration is work in progress,<br />
relying not only on an injection of foreign funds<br />
and harmonisation of European laws, but on a<br />
clear vision for a healthier and more holistic<br />
society in our times.<br />
The launch of Il-Majjistral, <strong>Malta</strong>’s first<br />
Nature and History Park, is a keystone to such<br />
a vision. The whole of the park is far greater<br />
than the sum of its parts, because it constitutes<br />
a breakthrough in the coastal management of<br />
our islands.<br />
Following in the wake of earlier projects<br />
run by NGO’s, like the wetlands at G˙adira by<br />
Birdlife, G˙ajn Tuffie˙a by Gaia, Wied G˙ollieqa<br />
by Nature Trust and Torri Mamo by Din L-Art<br />
Another Majjistral aerial view.<br />
Rudolf Ragonesi<br />
Óelwa, this Park may well mark a turning point<br />
in the management of our heritage, because of<br />
its implications in the protection of the North<br />
West, as well as its potential to integrate the<br />
policies on environment and tourism.<br />
The North West coastal cliffs are the last<br />
frontier on the mainland, the lungs of the island<br />
that breathe life into so much of its natural<br />
heritage, while at the same time offering an<br />
outstanding landscape that takes your breath<br />
away. They are the future not only for the<br />
quality of life of our citizens, but also for a<br />
tourism industry that is growing ever more<br />
competitive, in a world of travellers who are ever<br />
more demanding and in search of wild beauty,<br />
history and the magnificent sea.<br />
Europe’s natural heritage is embodied in<br />
a network of ecologically valuable sites called<br />
Natura 2000. The coastal cliffs of the North West<br />
form part of this network. The establishment of<br />
the Majjistral Park, which borders G˙ajn Tuffie˙a<br />
to the South and lies close to the Foresta 2000 site<br />
5 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park
and the Red Tower to the North, is a milestone<br />
in the management of the North West, and a<br />
stepping stone to secure the proper management<br />
of the entire Natura 2000 site. It was declared<br />
a national park in September 2007 by a legal<br />
notice that also constituted a management board<br />
composed of a chairman, government personnel<br />
from the Environment Ministry (MRAE), the<br />
Lands Department and MEPA and persons<br />
representing three environmental and cultural<br />
management NGO’s, namely, Din L-Art Óelwa,<br />
The Gaia Foundation and Nature Trust. The<br />
legal notice also called for the establishment<br />
of management agreements for the park. The<br />
official launch took place on the 27 th January,<br />
2008, with the signing of an agreement between<br />
the MRAE and MEPA on the one hand, and the<br />
said NGO’s on the other. The launch included<br />
the initial planting of indigenous trees, the<br />
start of guided walks on Sunday mornings, the<br />
publication of a nature trail brochure and a new<br />
website at www.majjistral.org.<br />
Nature tourism is the fastest growing sector<br />
in the industry worldwide. As people escape for<br />
a few days from the hustle and bustle of city<br />
life, they seek out a place in an idyllic setting<br />
to recharge their batteries and nourish their<br />
souls. The only way forward to a cleaner and<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
greener world is to reconnect humans with<br />
their environment, thus increasing awareness,<br />
appreciation and responsibility. A successful<br />
national park would afford the opportunity to<br />
both nature and humans to flourish, to find<br />
their path once again. <strong>Malta</strong> relies heavily<br />
on its visitors, yet equally on its permanent<br />
inhabitants, who are regular visitors in their<br />
own land, on weekends, or sunny afternoons<br />
throughout the year. Managed well and in an<br />
integrated way, the Park can offer a rich choice<br />
of activities, from walking, horse riding, sub<br />
aqua, surfing, canoeing and bathing on the one<br />
hand to visiting places of historical, cultural and<br />
rural interest on the other, like towers, organic<br />
farms, groves and visitor centres. It is the aim of<br />
the managers to set a record of excellence in the<br />
products and services available in the Park. This<br />
would put il-Majjistral on the Mediterranean<br />
map of places of interest to the visitor. We are<br />
at the first step along an exciting journey that<br />
would take us beyond our North West frontier<br />
to a collective conscious awareness of nature and<br />
tourism being two sides of the same coin. With<br />
the right vision, and investment of resources, the<br />
standard of excellence that could be reached in<br />
the Majjistral Park would have repercussions<br />
well beyond its borders.<br />
Custom Aerial Photos
Annalise Falzon<br />
Manikata today<br />
Manikata and its rUral asPECts<br />
Mario Cardona<br />
Management Committee, Koperattiva Rurali Manikata<br />
Manikata is home to about 500 inhabitants,<br />
many of whom are full-time or part-time<br />
farmers whereas newcomers include people<br />
from different parts of the Maltese islands who<br />
have come to live here in search of serenity<br />
and beautiful surroundings. Cultivated fields<br />
are found in the surrounding areas known as<br />
il-Ìnien ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a (G˙ajn Tuffie˙a<br />
Gardens), il-Wil©a ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a (G˙ajn<br />
Tuffie˙a meadow), il-MiΩieb (woodland) and ix-<br />
Xag˙ra l-Óamra (the red garrigue). Every last<br />
Sunday in August the parish celebrates the feast<br />
of St.Joseph and on the eve the local community<br />
celebrates Lejla Sajfija g˙aΩ-Ûiffa, a Summer<br />
Breeze Night, where the villagers put their best<br />
talents and products on show, including songs,<br />
drama, paintings, hand crafts, vegetables, fruits,<br />
honey, wine, olive oil...<br />
Koperattiva Rurali Manikata (KRM) Ltd<br />
In July 2005 a number of local farmers and<br />
residents set up the Kumitat g˙all-Óarsien Rurali<br />
Tombs abound in the Manikata area – this one was reused as a<br />
wartime shelter.<br />
ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a (Committee for the Safeguard<br />
of Rural Life in G˙ajn Tuffie˙a) with the aim of<br />
safeguarding the environment of Manikata and<br />
G˙ajn Tuffie˙a from ruin resulting from various<br />
so-called development projects. On the 24th of<br />
August 2007 the committee was dissolved and<br />
the same members set up the Koperattiva Rurali<br />
Manikata (KRM) Ltd. with the aim of operating<br />
a community project that would enable the<br />
general public to appreciate the natural beauty<br />
Ancient tombs contrast with modern buildings. Learning about the rural way of life.<br />
5 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon
Mario Cardona<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Locally produced marrows with flower.<br />
of the surroundings as well as agricultural life<br />
in Manikata. In March 2008 the Ministry for<br />
Rural Affairs and the Environment signed a<br />
management agreement with Koperattiva Rurali<br />
Manikata whereby KRM Ltd. will gradually<br />
restore the place called Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam.<br />
Reddish fertile soil.<br />
IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />
A beautiful large famhouse at Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam.<br />
This will eventually be turned into a services<br />
centre for the members of the cooperative as<br />
well as for those who visit our fields, including<br />
students, families and tourists.<br />
Note: For more info please visit our website: www.manikatafarmers.com<br />
Agricultural land.<br />
Annalise Falzon<br />
Annalise Falzon
Copyright ©: Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>) 2008<br />
Front Cover photo: Custom Aerial Photo<br />
Back Cover photos: Annalise Falzon, Custom Aerial Photo, Arnold Sciberras and Joe Sultana<br />
Design & Layout: Kevin Azzopardi (Wise Owl <strong>Publications</strong>, <strong>Malta</strong>) in collaboration with Annalise Falzon - Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>)<br />
Printing: Gutenberg, <strong>Malta</strong><br />
Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>)<br />
P.O. Box 9, Valletta CMR 01, <strong>Malta</strong> • Tel/Fax: 00356 21313150<br />
Email: info@naturetrustmalta.org • Website: www.naturetrustmalta.org