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NTM Publications - UNESCO Malta

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<strong>NTM</strong> <strong>Publications</strong><br />

In collaboration with


Editorial.................................................................. 2<br />

MEssagE.By.Prof..CharlEs.farrugia........................ 2<br />

aBout.thE.ContriButors......................................... 3<br />

sEtting.uP.thE.naturE.Park.................................. 4<br />

naturE.Walks.at.il-Majjistral.naturE.and<br />

. hEritagE.Park....................................................... 7<br />

flora.of.il-Majjistral.naturE.and<br />

. hEritagE.Park....................................................... 15<br />

fauna.at.Majjistral.Park......................................... 26<br />

Editorial<br />

ContEnts<br />

Il-Majjistral Park is a dream come true for a group of NGOs which have, over the years,<br />

lobbied for this area to be saved from the axe of development. It is the one of the only<br />

areas in the Maltese islands that still maintains that sense of remoteness and wilderness. Its<br />

ecological, historical and landscape beauty speaks for itself.<br />

What started as a nightmare for every environmentalist - that of development taking<br />

over with an urge to simply cover the area with a golf course - turned into a pleasant<br />

surprise when the Prime Minister announced that not only was the idea of the golf course<br />

being abandoned but the site was to be declared a national nature and heritage park to be managed by a<br />

group of NGOs.<br />

Both Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>), through submissions made way back in 1992, and Din l-Art Óelwa through<br />

a lobbying campaign have been trying over the past decade to get this site fully protected. As they say, the<br />

pen is mightier than the sword since finally a breakthrough was made and now we have the first nature park<br />

today managed by Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>), Din l-Art Óelwa and the Gaia Foundation.<br />

I take this opportunity to thank the Maltese National Commission for <strong>UNESCO</strong> for making this publication<br />

possible and believing in our work, Prof. J.M. Falzon for proofreading the publication and The <strong>Malta</strong><br />

Independent for donating one of the pictures used in this publication.<br />

Vincent Attard<br />

MEssagE by ProF. CHarlEs FarrUgia<br />

Chairman, Maltese National Commission for <strong>UNESCO</strong><br />

thE.avifauna.of.Xagóra.l-óaMra........................... 31<br />

disCovEring.Cultural.hEritagE.at.thE<br />

. Majjistral.Park..................................................... 35<br />

thE.girna:.thE.MaltEsE.CorBEllEd.stonE.hut.... 40<br />

thE.Coastal.and.MarinE.EnvironMEnt................... 43<br />

gEoMorPhiC.ProCEssEs.at.il-Majjistral.Park<br />

. and.its.Environs................................................... 47<br />

WindoWs.to.thE.north.WEst.................................. 52<br />

Manikata.and.its.rural.asPECts.............................. 54<br />

The stand taken by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation<br />

(<strong>UNESCO</strong>) on the protection and enhancement of the natural environment is unequivocal<br />

and unambiguous. One important statement on environmental protection reads:<br />

“There can be no long-term economic or social development on a depleted planet. Teaching<br />

society how to behave responsibly and respect the environment lies at the core of education for<br />

sustainable development.”<br />

In efforts to translate words into action, <strong>UNESCO</strong> has identified 730 different sites on its World Heritage<br />

list: 563 cultural, 144 natural and 23 combined. It urges governments and the international community to do<br />

all they can to ensure that these sites are protected from human and natural developments that in one way<br />

or another might endanger their existence. Among these one finds our Óal Saflieni Hypogeum, the City of<br />

Valletta and the Megalithic Temples both in <strong>Malta</strong> and Gozo. In line with <strong>UNESCO</strong>’s policy, the State and<br />

local NGOs do their utmost to preserve this tangible heritage on behalf of the Islands’ inhabitants and our<br />

many visitors, for the present and future generations.<br />

<strong>UNESCO</strong> also urges educators to sensitize young people to their role and responsibility in helping to<br />

prevent habitat loss and degradation, species loss and pollution, a role which in <strong>Malta</strong> is admirably fulfilled<br />

by Nature Trust, among others.<br />

When Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>) asked the Maltese National Commission for <strong>UNESCO</strong> to underwrite this<br />

publication on the beauty and uniqueness of the Majjistral Natural Reserve in the North-East part of <strong>Malta</strong>,<br />

members agreed to do so without hesitation. This project covers specifically and fulfils admirably <strong>UNESCO</strong>’s<br />

policies on environmental education and protection. Now that the publication is in hand, I am convinced that<br />

all who view and own this book will agree that it was a wise decision. The evocative photographs together<br />

with the informative and stimulating text render the publication an educational tool as well as a memento to<br />

be cherished and preserved, almost as the site itself.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


aboUt tHE ContribUtors<br />

Dr Petra Bianchi is Director of Din l-Art Helwa.<br />

John J. Borg: Principal Curator of Natural History responsible for the National Museum of Natural<br />

History and Ghar Dalam cave and museum in <strong>Malta</strong> and the Gozo Nature Museum (Citadel).<br />

Ornithologist, specialising in seabird ecology and breeding biology particullarly of the members<br />

of the Order Procellariiformes (Shearwaters and Petrels). John was commissioned by MEPA to<br />

prepare the Ornithological Management Plan for the Xaghra l-Hamra area and has carried out<br />

the Environment Impact Assesments (Ornithology and Mammalogy) of the same area.<br />

Mario Cardona is Assistant Head of the primary school of Valletta. He specialised in the filed of<br />

adult education and training and community development. He is a committee member of the<br />

steering committee of the Koperattiva Rurali Manikata (KRM) Ltd..<br />

Dr. Alan Deidun completed his PhD in Biology on the ecology of local sandy beaches in November<br />

2006. Since then, Dr. Deidun has co-authored almost 20 scientific papers on aspects of coastal<br />

ecology, including sandy and shingle beaches, rocky shores, banquettes, killifish populations<br />

and infralittoral assemblages. He is member of the SIBM (Societa Italiana di Biologia Marina)<br />

and of the Institute of Biology and currently also editor of the peer-reviewed natural history<br />

journal ‘The Central Mediterranean Naturalist’. He is currently lecturer at the Department of<br />

Biology and at the Department of Environmental Science at the Junior College, besides a marine<br />

consultant and environmental correspondent with The Sunday Times.<br />

Annalise Falzon is an environmental educator with Nature Trust and the Nature Walks Guide<br />

of the Majjistral Nature and History Park. In 2003 she co-authored “<strong>Malta</strong>, Gozo and Comino<br />

– Off the Beaten Track”, a Nature Trust guidebook for local countryside walks.<br />

Prof. Joseph M. Falzon is Associate Professor of Educational Psychology (retd.); now consultant<br />

to the Matsec Board<br />

Martin Galea is Executive President of Din L-Art Helwa. In other lives he is also president of the<br />

Federation of Industry and the <strong>Malta</strong> Rugby Football Union as well as Managing Director of<br />

Joinwell.<br />

Dr Rudolf Ragonesi is director of The Gaia Foundation.<br />

Avertano Rolé lectures in Physical Geography and Agricultural Science at the University of <strong>Malta</strong>.<br />

His area of specialisation is geomorphology, land degradation, soil erosion, and desertification. He<br />

has extensive experience in environmental management in <strong>Malta</strong> and Australia, and participated<br />

in several international projects regarding land and environmental management.<br />

Arnold Sciberras is the Park Ranger at Il-Majjistral Park.He has been studying the local herpetofauna<br />

for the past decade, focusing special attention on the Maltese Wall Lizard populations and<br />

their surrounding microhabitats. He has also published extensively on this subject and general<br />

entomology.<br />

Jeffrey Sciberras is a part-time gardener and BSc student of Agri-ecosystems Management of the<br />

Mediterranean. He is interested in botany and has written some short articles on local flora for<br />

Il-Ballotra. He also contributed to a number of works regarding fauna,<br />

Joe Sultana is an ornithologist - consultant to the COE European Diploma and to MAP’s RACSPA.<br />

Formerly Principal Environment Officer, Planning Authority board member, Secretary and<br />

President of MOS/BirdLife <strong>Malta</strong>, Council Member of BirdLife International, Chairman of<br />

Naturopa Centre, and Chairman of Ornis Committee. Authored several ornithological and<br />

nature publications. Awarded - Gouden Lepelaar by Vogelbescherming, RSPB Medal, and<br />

Membership of Honour by BirdLife International for outstanding service to ornithology and<br />

bird conservation.<br />

Note: The opinions expressed in the articles are solely of the authors and thus may not reflect the opinion of the Editors and project team.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


MEPA<br />

sEtting UP tHE natUrE Park<br />

Martin Galea<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


From left to right: Mr Vince Attard, Ms Annalise Falzon, Mr Martin Galea Dr Lawrence Gonzi, Mr George Pullicino,<br />

Dr Rudolf Ragonesi and Dr Stanley Zammit inspecting Il-Majjistral site.<br />

It all started in the Minister’s office. The<br />

major NGOs were gathered in the Hon George<br />

Pullicino’s office to put our views against the<br />

proposed golf course at Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />

Whilst looking at the map in the waiting room<br />

we concluded that, far from being given over to<br />

golf, the area should be in fact a part of <strong>Malta</strong>’s<br />

first national park. The area from Çirkewwa to<br />

Wied iΩ-Ûurrieq contains some of <strong>Malta</strong>’s most<br />

beautiful and important countryside and it was an<br />

obvious candidate for a national park. We made<br />

this point to the Minister and he immediately<br />

was interested, however with reservations about<br />

the golf course as this was a Cabinet decision.<br />

Din l-Art Óelwa took this forward and<br />

prepared a detailed 100-page report on the<br />

area. At a number of meetings with the Prime<br />

Minister and with the Minister for Rural Affairs<br />

and the Environment, over the next two years,<br />

the concept was constantly brought up. The<br />

reaction was always positive and it was felt<br />

with increasing optimism that this thing could<br />

fly. Every opportunity was taken to publicise<br />

the idea in the media, articles, in Vigilo and in<br />

meetings with the Superintendence of Cultural<br />

Heritage and MEPA. The reaction was invariably<br />

favourable. <strong>Malta</strong> should have its park.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

We were then told that the Cabinet had<br />

decided and was determined that this should<br />

happen. Instructions were given to MEPA to carry<br />

out a survey and draw up a draft management<br />

plan. It was a red letter day therefore when it<br />

was announced in 2007 that the Government<br />

wished to found a national park and that it was<br />

to be managed by NGOs. Din l-Art Óelwa and<br />

Nature Trust were selected and both agreed that<br />

Gaia should also be asked to join since they had<br />

considerable expertise in the area.<br />

A supervisory board was set up by legal<br />

notice with three Government members<br />

(representatives from the Ministry for<br />

Environment and Rural Affairs, the Lands<br />

Department and MEPA), the three NGOs, and<br />

an independent Chairman. The choice of the<br />

chairman was also auspicious as Dr Stanley<br />

Zammit, who was appointed, had earned<br />

considerable respect from NGOs when he was<br />

Parliamentary Secretary for the Environment<br />

some years previously.<br />

The Management of the park was to be<br />

carried out by the NGOs and the Heritage<br />

Parks Federation was founded specifically for<br />

this purpose.<br />

The <strong>Malta</strong> Independent


The supervisory Board started meeting<br />

in earnest and has to date concluded an<br />

extensive consultation process. Earlier this year<br />

the Government gave over e116,000 to the<br />

Heritage Parks Federation, and steps could now<br />

be taken for concrete action to start. Two rangers<br />

have been employed and some clean-ups have<br />

started. However the main issue is uncontrolled<br />

access by vehicles to the area which are destroying<br />

the garigue and aggravating the dumping<br />

problem, and at the time of going to press this<br />

issue was in the process of being resolved, again<br />

through a consultative approach.<br />

It is hoped that once access is restricted to<br />

pedestrians, cyclists and limited vehicular access<br />

by farmers who have land in the area, progress<br />

in rehabilitating the damaged natural habitats<br />

can start in earnest.<br />

<strong>Malta</strong> stands much to gain. The environmental<br />

benefits are clear, but spin-off benefits, not least<br />

improving the tourism product, are immense<br />

importance. It will also guarantee that the area<br />

remains in a pristine state for this and future<br />

generations to enjoy.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon


NATURE WALKS AT IL-MAJJISTRAL<br />

natUrE and History Park<br />

Nature walks Guide at Il-Majjistral Nature and History Park<br />

Web: www.majjistral.org Email: walks@majjistral.org<br />

For the keen rambler, the Northwest of <strong>Malta</strong><br />

does not need much in way of introduction. It<br />

offers unique sea and landscapes, a sense of<br />

wilderness and some truly inspiring walks. One<br />

of the greatest assets of the Maltese Islands is that<br />

despite the small size, they feature a wide variety<br />

of changing landscapes – and the northwest area<br />

of <strong>Malta</strong> is certainly no exception.<br />

Guided walks at Il-Majjistral Nature and<br />

History Park started on a regular basis in February<br />

2008 – an initiative which is popular both with<br />

locals as well as foreigners. The standard guided<br />

walk, 6km in length, is easy going and takes<br />

about 2.5hrs starting and ending at Golden Bay.<br />

Walks are normally held on Sundays and must<br />

be pre-booked two weeks in advance on walks@<br />

majjistral.org – the route can be seen on http://<br />

www.majjistral.org/guided_walk.html<br />

View towards Majjistral Park and Il-Qammie˙ from Ras il-Pellegrin<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

A walk in the park.<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Svetlana Vella Agafonycheva


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

The Guided Walk<br />

Exploring the whole area well would take<br />

much more than two hours… so the guided<br />

walk aims to take in some of the highlights of this<br />

area: an area which is predominantly natural<br />

but which has, however, its share of man-made<br />

features including those of historical value.<br />

Starting from Il-Kamp ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a –<br />

used in the past as military training grounds for<br />

the Territorials – one can get a good view of the<br />

inland ridges, the Knights’ coastal towers and<br />

Ir-Ramla tal-Mixquqa.<br />

Garigue - nature’s rock gardens are rich in plant diversity.<br />

the unique features of the area – queen amongst<br />

which is the clayey headland of Il-Karraba,<br />

stubbornly resisting millennia of restlessly<br />

pounding waves whilst surrounding bays have<br />

given in to erosion and are now some of the most<br />

popular sandy beaches of the islands. These<br />

include the protected area of G˙ajn Tuffie˙a,<br />

managed by the Gaia Foundation, and Golden<br />

Bay with its rare sand dune remnants.<br />

Proceeding on the walk up the limestone<br />

plateau of Ix-Xag˙ra tal-Majjiesa with its<br />

windswept and sunbleached rocky outcrops<br />

Learning about nature - students from Stella Maris College.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Keith Buhagiar


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Salt steppe at il-Prajjet.<br />

one can appreciate some of the hardiest plants<br />

making up the garigue – an infinite array of<br />

natural miniature “rock gardens”. It is here, in<br />

this most undervalued of habitats, that many<br />

medicinal and also endemic plants grow mostly<br />

in the form of small, low-lying evergreen shrubs<br />

or bulbous plants.<br />

Fissures in the limestone plateau as a result of underlying clay.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

The Rdum at Ras il-Wa˙x and the rock cut cave seen from below.<br />

At the uppermost tip of this plateau an<br />

unexpected rock-cut room stands guard<br />

over the western horizon in a privileged<br />

position witnessing the most amazing sunsets.<br />

Overlooking the mysterious Ras il-Wa˙x are the<br />

Rdum which give us the unique characteristic of<br />

our landscape.<br />

Upper Coralline boulders which collapsed from the plateau of<br />

Il-Majjiesa.<br />

Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

The massive trunk of an old fig tree<br />

anchors amidst a sea of boulders.<br />

Favourite haunt of our National Bird, the<br />

Blue Rock Thrush, and of many plants, the<br />

wild backdrop of this coast is heavily sprinkled<br />

with huge boulders. Do not be deceived by the<br />

Left: Blue Clay creeping outwards beneath the Upper Coralline<br />

Limestone and causing its subsidence. Top: Boulders rest at sea.<br />

The lush green in sheltered Rdum areas provides a contrasting<br />

habitat to the plateau garigue.<br />

apparent strength of the harsh limestone – it is<br />

the underlying Blue Clay layer which has the last<br />

word here as it causes the definite separation of<br />

the Upper Coralline Limestone forcing it away<br />

10 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Rock cut stairway at Rdum Majjiesa.<br />

Il-MinΩel.<br />

from its dominant position to come tumbling<br />

down towards the sea.<br />

The two extremities of the park in fact, hold<br />

between them this most secret and inaccessible<br />

of all Maltese landscapes – the wild, labyrinthine<br />

Rdum – the last place where one would expect to<br />

find any human impact. But yet, tiny patches of<br />

land were also worked down here with complex<br />

dry stone wall systems for sheltering vines and<br />

fruit trees. At various spots hidden in the cliff one<br />

can encounter the minΩel – old rock cut stairways<br />

leading down into the boulder scree.<br />

An eroded path leads downwards now in full<br />

view of the rest of the coast leading to Irdum<br />

id-Delli, capped by Il-Qammie˙ as the last of<br />

<strong>Malta</strong>’s ridges and the majestic Ta’ Çenç cliffs<br />

in Gozo as a backdrop.<br />

Walking towards G˙ajn Ûnuber and turning<br />

inland next to a wartime military structure, one<br />

is instantly transported to a different context<br />

captured best within the spirit of the Maltese<br />

Corbelled Stone hut (Girna) – a glimpse back<br />

into traditional rural <strong>Malta</strong> with patchworks of<br />

cultivated land with their backs to the Mistral<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 11<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Archway set in the dry stone walled fields.<br />

wind and facing the more sheltered and fertile<br />

valley of Il-MiΩieb.<br />

Here one cannot help but heave a sigh of relief<br />

at the shelved projects which were to see the<br />

arching back of ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra developed<br />

as a golf course.<br />

The Girna - tradtional corbelled stone hut.<br />

View from Ta’ Ciantar.<br />

Passing by an old farmhouse one can retrace<br />

one’s steps back to Golden Bay or opt for a more<br />

interesting route by walking towards Manikata,<br />

past the cart ruts on the limestone outcrops<br />

and walking through the now uninhabited old<br />

settlement of ir-Razzett tal-Qasam – another<br />

restoration project is in the pipeline here and is<br />

spearheaded by the Manikata Rural Cooperative<br />

and the Mellie˙a Local Council.<br />

Other walking possibilities in the area<br />

The walk described above can easily be<br />

extended to take in more of the Park – heading<br />

towards the G˙ajn Ûnuber / Ta’ Ciantar Tower<br />

there is an easy and short route to Il-Prajjet<br />

(Anchor Bay) along a country road – another<br />

1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Giren dot the rural inland landscape.<br />

similar road passes parallel to it and can be used<br />

to return to the same spot. Alternatively one<br />

can opt to walk to Mellieha Bay which is just a<br />

kilometre away.<br />

For the more adventurous, a walk in the<br />

boulder scree offers a completely different<br />

landscape. There are three main access points<br />

to descend into the rdum – along Rdum Majjiesa<br />

and further north along Rdum id-Delli – there<br />

are traces of rough footpaths but these are often<br />

hard to find and may entail some clambering<br />

over and in between boulders. The landscape is<br />

intriguing, mysterious and ever-changing – but<br />

Small fields and old vines bear witness to a longtime<br />

agricultural activity in the area.<br />

to be traversed with due respect and with a light<br />

tread as it is home to many rare species which<br />

have found in this habitat their last refuge.<br />

The fertile valley bed. Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra - living up to its name!<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />

Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

The abandoned settlement at Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam. Dreamlike atmosphere of days gone by at Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam.<br />

Visiting the medieval settlement of Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam. The track leading to Il-Prajjet.<br />

Looking inland towards Mellie˙a’s valleys.<br />

Acknowledgements<br />

Din l-Art Óelwa www.dinlarthelwa.org<br />

Gaia Foundation www.projectgaia.org<br />

Nature Trust <strong>Malta</strong> www.naturetrustmalta.org<br />

Mario Cardona and Veronica Farrugia,<br />

Koperattiva Rurali Manikata www.manikatafarmers.com<br />

Ramblers Association of <strong>Malta</strong><br />

www.ramblersmalta.jointcomms.com<br />

Antoine Gatt<br />

The uniqueness of the rdum habitat is best experienced<br />

at close range.<br />

1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon


FLORA OF IL-MAJJISTRAL NATURE AND<br />

HEritagE Park<br />

Steve Bonello, Jeffrey Sciberras and Annalise Falzon<br />

Il-Majjistral Nature and History Park,<br />

situated in the locality of Mellie˙a and extending<br />

from Ir-Ramla tal-Mixquqa (Golden Bay) to<br />

Il-Prajjet (Anchor Bay) offers the visitor an<br />

insight into some of the most interesting land<br />

and seascape features and unique coastal views<br />

along the Northwest of <strong>Malta</strong> and beyond to<br />

Gozo’s majestic southern cliffs. The sheer sense<br />

of wilderness and open space here is enough<br />

justification for it to be granted status as a<br />

protected area.<br />

striking with an expanse of aromatic garigue,<br />

cultivated land, valleys and extensive plateaux.<br />

The Majjistral Boulder Scree<br />

Certainly the most visually dramatic area of<br />

the Majjistral Park must be the vast boulder<br />

fields lying between the upper cliff faces and the<br />

One of the greatest assets of the Maltese<br />

Islands is that despite their small size, they<br />

feature a wide variety of changing landscapes<br />

– and the northwest area of <strong>Malta</strong> is certanly<br />

no exception. The coast often steals the show<br />

with the most striking sunsets experienced<br />

from Rdum Majjiesa whilst the daytime attracts<br />

people to its sandy beaches surrounded by sand<br />

dune remnants with very rare plants, the wilder<br />

boulder screes, rolling clay slopes, cliffs and tiny<br />

hidden bays. But the inland views are no less Boulder Scree.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />

Custom Aerial Photos<br />

Steve Bonello


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Rdum habitat.<br />

seashore, stretching all the way from Ir-Ramla<br />

tal-Mixquqa (Golden Bay) to Rdum id-Delli – a<br />

distance of some three kilometres. This coast<br />

which can seem so harsh to some is conversely<br />

attractive to many species for which this is the<br />

last relatively undisturbed land they can inhabit.<br />

This is an area of very rough terrain in places<br />

and not an easy one to navigate – though various<br />

footpaths do criss-cross this vast and somewhat<br />

hostile area. Close exploration does however<br />

have its rewards – primarily in the area’s stunning<br />

vistas and the rich floral biodiversity featuring<br />

an array of representative species of garigue,<br />

boulder scree and clay slope habitats – one of<br />

the best refuges for a wide variety of flora and<br />

fauna and is indeed considered as constituting<br />

a unique biological community.<br />

Clifftop boulders detached from the plateau.<br />

The uniqueness of this terrain is owed to the<br />

peculiarity of its formation – the Upper Coralline<br />

Limestone which caps many hills, forms a plateau<br />

resting on an unstable, and somewhat mobile<br />

substrate – Blue Clay. This impermeable layer<br />

becomes saturated with rainwater and slides<br />

down forming slopes. The overlying limestone<br />

loses its foothold and its weight becomes its<br />

downfall as boulders detach and tumble down<br />

to the coast, often resting in precarious positions<br />

whilst at other times continuing their headlong<br />

path straight down to the sea.<br />

Shrubby Crown Vetch.<br />

Characteristic of the southernmost part of<br />

the boulder scree is <strong>Malta</strong>’s largest population<br />

of the rare Shrubby Crown Vetch (Coronilla<br />

valentina), a small bushy species which erupts<br />

in very fragrant yellow flowers in early<br />

springtime. In the Maltese Islands this species<br />

is confined to a very few seaboard cliff sites,<br />

and occurs inland only in one or two locations;<br />

the population at Majjistral is certainly the<br />

most beautifully sited. Other highly interesting<br />

species include a very small copse of the rare<br />

Chaste Tree (Vitex agnus-castus), and recently<br />

recorded small but significant populations of<br />

the Southern Dwarf Iris (Iris pseudopumila)<br />

and the very rare endemic and protected<br />

Maltese Toadflax (Linaria pseudolaxiflora) 1 , a<br />

species of European Importance, and the rare<br />

Evergreen Traveller’s Joy (Clematis cirrhosa).<br />

1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Southern Dwarf Iris.<br />

Other predominant species in the area include<br />

the Wild Honeysuckle (Lonicera implexa), the<br />

Wolfbane (Periploca angustifolia), the endemic<br />

Maltese Spurge (Euphorbia melitensis) and<br />

the Egyptian St. John’s Wort (Hypericum<br />

aegypticum).<br />

The aquifer formed as a result of the<br />

impermeability of the Blue Clay stratum gives<br />

rise to some freshwater springs which are often<br />

demarcated by the presence of the Great Reed<br />

(Arundo donax). Under several large boulders,<br />

fresh water or brackish rock pools also occur.<br />

These rock are usually surrounded by Sea Rush<br />

(Juncus maritimus).<br />

Tree species include the Olive (Olea europea),<br />

Carob (Ceratonia siliqua), the Fig (Ficus carica),<br />

Almond (Prunus dulcis), the Tamarisk (Tamarix<br />

africana) as well as some fruit trees. Interestingly<br />

some wild vines testify the traditional agricultural<br />

use of even the smallest patch of soil – a practice<br />

still in use today in some parts of the park..<br />

The vast boulder scree area also contains<br />

pockets of garigue habitat. In this area one can<br />

find characteristic orchid species like the Bumble<br />

Bee (Ophrys bombyliflora), the endemic Maltese<br />

Pyramidal (Anacamptis urvilleana), the Scented<br />

Bug Orchid (Orchis fragrans), the Tongue Orchid<br />

(Serapias parviflora) as well as the Maltese Spider<br />

Scented Bug Orchid.<br />

Egyptian St. John’s Wort. Maltese Spider Orchid.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Steve Bonello


Jeffrey Sciberras Annalise Falzon<br />

Orchid (Ophrys melitensis) and the Common<br />

Pyramidal (Anacamptis pyramidalis).<br />

In some flat plain areas along the coast of the<br />

boulder scree certain patches are dominated by<br />

the Fringed Rue (Ruta chalepensis) accompanied<br />

by the small low creeping Kidney Bladder Vetch<br />

(Tripodion tetraphyllum). Large boulders are<br />

host habitats for the common endemic Maltese<br />

Fleabane (Chiliadenus bocconei) and for the Sea<br />

Bushy Restharrow.<br />

Black Bryony.<br />

Samphire (Crithmum maritimum).<br />

The rocky outcrops in this northern outpost<br />

of the park boast some good populations of Wild<br />

Honeysuckle, Yellow Kidney Vetch (Anthyllis<br />

hermanniae), as well as small pockets of the rare<br />

climbing Black Bryony (Tamus communis).<br />

Also of note in the higher parts above the scree<br />

is a small population of the Bushy Restharrow<br />

(Ononis natrix ssp. ramosissima) a plant which<br />

although quite common on the sister islands<br />

of Gozo and Comino is very rare on mainland<br />

<strong>Malta</strong>. This plant has the curious distinction<br />

of being <strong>Malta</strong>’s oldest protected species, since<br />

at the time of Grandmaster De Rohan’s rule a<br />

decree had been issued banning its collection<br />

for firewood prior to a fortnight after the feast<br />

of St.John, in order to allow for seed formation<br />

and dispersal.<br />

Clay Slopes<br />

The clay slopes lying amid the boulder fields<br />

in the south of the area between Mixquqa and<br />

Ras il-Wa˙x are home to the only significant<br />

1 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


Steve Bonello<br />

population of Fagonia cretica on the islands. This<br />

is a prostrate spiny plant which produces masses<br />

of small purple flowers from January until March.<br />

Curiously this plant does not occur anywhere else<br />

in the Maltese Islands except for a tiny population<br />

at Il-Karraba in G˙ajn Tuffie˙a.<br />

The northernmost part of the area, known<br />

as Irdum id-Delli features beautiful clay slopes<br />

dominated by Esparto Grass (Lygeum spartum).<br />

The Garigue Expanses<br />

Fagonia cretica. Clay slopes at Rdum id-Delli.<br />

Further up the limestone plateaux, including<br />

the much disputed Xag˙ra l-Óamra, are<br />

dominated by garigue on sparse soil with low<br />

lying shrubs facing the prevailing northwestern<br />

Maltese Spurge.<br />

winds, or by rocky steppe. And this windswept<br />

land, with its deceptively “barren” appearance<br />

in the dry season, is in reality adorned by the<br />

most exquisite orchids with a total of nine species<br />

recorded from the area. It is often in the winter<br />

and spring that most of the habitats come to<br />

life – although early summer is also similarly<br />

rewarding with the Maltese Spurge (Euphorbia<br />

melitensis) creating a unique reddish mosaic of<br />

leaves that would seem more akin to autumnal<br />

colours. Is is then the time of the Wild Thyme<br />

to flourish and spread its scented carpet of lilac<br />

flowers.<br />

The Upper Coralline Limestone Plateaux of<br />

the park area are identical to garigue habitat,<br />

with short-lived temporary freshwater pools<br />

in winter, and interspersed with stretches of<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Steve Bonello


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Maltese Spurge changing colour – a stark contrast<br />

with the evergreen Thyme.<br />

dry stone walls and cultivated or abandoned<br />

parcels of land. Recently disturbed areas show<br />

a low level of biodiversity, while long abandoned<br />

disturbed sites tend to develop their own unique<br />

well established natural ecosystems. An example<br />

Maltese Pyramidal Orchid reclaiming abandoned fields.<br />

of the latter is the Maltese Pyramidal Orchid’s<br />

tendency to re-establish itself in abandoned<br />

cultivated land on the garigue.<br />

The southermost parts of the plateau are<br />

mainly characterised by the Shrubby Kidney<br />

Vetch (Anthyllis hermanniae), a very hardy, spiny<br />

shrub which is completely covered in small yellow<br />

flowers in late spring and the silvery shrub Oliveleaved<br />

Bindweed (Convolvus oleiolfolius) which<br />

flowers in spring and becomes bare in summer.<br />

A prostrate relative, which is quite rare in this<br />

area is the Field Bindweed (Convolvus althaeoides<br />

ssp.tenuissimus) a very hairy subspecies when<br />

compared to the more common ssp althaeoides.<br />

Rarely seen in open sunny cliff edge areas since<br />

it is mainly a maquis inhabitant, is the Yellow<br />

Germander (Teucrium flavum). This plant is<br />

immediately identifiable by its glossy leaves or<br />

by its faint gum-like odour.<br />

Mediterranean Hartwort.<br />

Longstanding disturbance in this area has<br />

created a community consisting mostly of<br />

low growing annuals, co-existing with small<br />

bulbous perennials. These include species such<br />

as Pygmy Cudweed (Evax pygmea), Annual<br />

Hyoseris (Hyoseris scabra), Common Reichardia<br />

(Reichardia picroides), Wild Clary (Salvia<br />

verbenaca) Mediterranean Hartwort (Tordylium<br />

apulum), Clustered Sulla (Hedysarum spinossimun<br />

ssp capitatum), Storkbill (Erodium moschatum and<br />

Erodium malacoides), Sand-crocuses (Romulea sp.),<br />

Barbary Nut Iris and Mediterranean Meadow<br />

Saffron (Colchicum cupani). Medium sized<br />

annuals and biennials also occur here, such as<br />

Pale Bugloss (Echium italicum) which resembles a<br />

miniature Christmas tree when it dries up, and<br />

the Yellow Horned-Poppy (Glaucium flavum).<br />

The eastern edge of this area, where disturbance<br />

is most pronounced is dominated by the Greater<br />

Snapdragon (Anthirrinum tortuosum). This species<br />

0 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Jeffrey Sciberras


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Mediterranean Meadow Saffron.<br />

is also accompanied by the Large Blue Alkanet<br />

(Anchusa azurea) especially throughout the<br />

border of this park.<br />

A path leading inland has been somehwat<br />

taken over by several alien species such as the<br />

Chasmanthe (Chasmanthe bicolor), Aeonium<br />

(Aeonium arboreums) and Prickly Pear (Opuntia<br />

ficus indica). In contrast there are several rare<br />

indigenous species such as the Sicilian Squill (Scilla<br />

sicula) and Kundmannia (Kundmannia sicula)<br />

which looks like a cross between the common<br />

fennel and celery. Other naturally found species<br />

include the Mediterranean Thyme (Thymbra<br />

capitata), Blue Stonecrop (Sedum caeruleum) and<br />

Mediterranean Stonecrop (Sedum sediforme) as<br />

Sicilian Squill.<br />

well as a few Lesser Snapdragons (Misopates<br />

orontium) which have bluish leaves and very small<br />

pink flowers, a species on the increase. Shaded<br />

areas are populated by Caper (Capparis orientalis),<br />

Pellitory-of-the-wall (Parietaria judaica) and Wild<br />

Madder (Rubia peregrina). Some archaeophytes<br />

also occur such as the Carob Tree (Ceratonia<br />

siliqua) and Fig Tree (Ficus carica).<br />

Mediterranean Stonecrop.<br />

The plateau of Ix-Xag˙ra tal-Qortin is<br />

dominated by small shrubs of Shrubby Kidney<br />

Vetch, Mediterranean Thyme, Spiny Ox-<br />

Eye Daisy (Pallenis spinosa) and Spiny Chicory<br />

(Chicorum spinosum) the appearance of which<br />

resembles that of a hedgehog – hence its Maltese<br />

name Qanfuda. A few specimens of the Hoary<br />

Hoary Rock Rose.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 21<br />

Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon


Jeffrey Sciberras<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Barbary Nut Iris.<br />

Rock-Rose (Cistus creticus) have been recorderd<br />

in this area 2 . In spring paths are covered by the<br />

small Barbary Nut Iris (Gynandriris sisyrinchium).<br />

The nearby Xag˙ra tal-Majjiesa comprises<br />

localised patches of garigue dominated by<br />

Wolfbane (Periploca angustifolia) a mainly north<br />

African species with very unusual succulent<br />

small greenish flowers, and by the endemic<br />

Maltese Spurge (Euphorbia melitensis) – often<br />

parasitised by the stubborn and fast-spreading<br />

reddish hair-like stems of the Dodder (Cuscuta<br />

epithymum). Some patches are dominated by the<br />

Mediterranean Heather (Erica multiflora) which<br />

Wolfbane pod and flower (inset).<br />

Southern Crupina.<br />

when in bloom is one of the most attractive pink<br />

flowering shrubs in <strong>Malta</strong>. Another attractive<br />

large shrub is the Evergreen Honeysuckle<br />

(Lonicera implexa) whilst a shrub which is scarce<br />

in this area but less so in other areas is the<br />

Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis fruticosa). Attractive<br />

alien species have also colonised this area such<br />

as the Freesia (Freesia refracta). The slender<br />

Southern Crupina (Crupina crupinastrum), which<br />

is quite a rarity, has also been recorded from the<br />

plateau and along a few paths.<br />

Non-shrubby species here include the very<br />

common Sea Squill (Urginea pancration) which<br />

grows leaves in winter, dries in summer and<br />

blooms (without leaves) in summer/autumn, the<br />

Wild Carrot (Daucus carota), the scarce Maltese<br />

Savory (Satureja microphylla), known for its use<br />

to cure people having intestinal calcium excess,<br />

and the Clustered Carline Thistle (Carlina<br />

involucrata).<br />

The flora at Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra also hosts<br />

most of the above mentioned species, with<br />

the addition of the dominant shrub Oliveleaved<br />

Germander (Teucrium fruticans), Eastern<br />

Phagnalon (Phagnalon graec0um ssp. ginzbergeri)<br />

and the Hispid Beard-grass (Hyparrhenia hirta).<br />

The Rdum id-Delli plateau is the highest<br />

plateau in the park but not the largest. It supports<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Steve Bonello


Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon<br />

Large Star of Bethlehem.<br />

vegetation communities typical of garigue and<br />

steppe, regenerating garigue and garigue-clay<br />

slope transitions.<br />

The regenerating fields vary. Some are still in<br />

the steppic stage, with species like the dominant<br />

Pitch Clover (Bituminaria bituminosa), Southern<br />

Star Thistle (Centaurea nicaeensis), Beard-grass<br />

and Cape Sorrel (Oxalis pes-caprae). Regenerated<br />

garigue supports the Silvery Ragwort (Senecio<br />

bicolor) which is quite frequent, the Branched<br />

Asphodel (Asphodelus aestivus), the Large Star<br />

of Bethlehem, (Ornithogalum arabicum), which is<br />

sometimes unfortunately collected in bunches<br />

for decoration purposes, Southern Star of<br />

Bethlehem (Ornithogalum narbonense), dominant<br />

orchids such as the endemic Maltese Pyramidal<br />

Orchid and later on in the season the Common<br />

Pyramidal. The garigue of this area is equally<br />

dominated by the characteristic shrubby species<br />

mentioned before. However, in the transition<br />

area between garigue and clay steppes, one can<br />

find the rare Bushy Restharrow (Ononis natrix.<br />

ssp.ramosissima), the Common Sulla (Hedysarum<br />

cornarium), Silvery Ragwort and Grey Birdsfoot<br />

Trefoil (Lotus cystisoides) which is usually found<br />

very close to the sea.<br />

Valley habitat<br />

Wied ta’ Rdum leads down to Il-Prajjet from<br />

Ta’ Ciantar/G˙ajn Ûnuber – this is in fact one of<br />

the only places where the Ûnuber – Aleppo Pine<br />

(Pinus halepensis) – can be found growing in the<br />

slightly more sheltered low valley together with<br />

Tamarisk trees.<br />

Salt Steppe<br />

The coastal area towards il-Prajjet is an<br />

expanse of highly salt-tolerant plants forming<br />

a contrasting habitat to the garigue to the<br />

south – this salt steppe is dominated by Esparto<br />

Grass, Golden Samphire (Inula chritmoides) and<br />

Sea Squill, Maltese Sea Chamomile (Anthemis<br />

urvilleana) and Maltese Sea-Lavender (Limonium<br />

melitensis) and Sea-Heath (Frankenia hirsuta).<br />

Southern Star of Bethlehem. Salt steppe near Il-Prajjet.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

References<br />

An Ecological Survey of the Rdum il-Majjiesa area prepared<br />

for the GAIA Foundation, by E. Calleja, V. Gaydarova<br />

Calleja, May 2000<br />

EIS Xag˙ra l-Óamra and Tal-Qortin l/o Mellie˙a, Proposed<br />

Golf Course and Supporting facilities, Techincal<br />

Appendix 5: Ecology Baseline Survey, L. Cassar, S.<br />

Lanfranco obo MTA April 2006<br />

Flora of the Maltese Islands, a field guide. Hans Christian Weber<br />

and Bernd Kendzoir, Margraf Publishers, 2006.<br />

Maltese Sea Chamomile.<br />

Acknowledgements<br />

Arnold Sciberras<br />

Edwin Lanfranco<br />

Mario Cardona<br />

Endnotes<br />

1. Linaria pseudolaxiflora was first recorded from the area<br />

by one of the authors – Steve Bonello.<br />

2. Cistus creticus was first recorded from the area by one<br />

of the authors – Jeffrey Sciberras.<br />

Common name (English) Common name (Maltese) Scientific name<br />

Barbary nut iris Fjurdulis salva©© Gynandiris sisyrinchum<br />

Pale bugloss Ilsien il-fart abjad Echium italicum<br />

Yellow horned poppy Pepprin isfar Glacium flavum<br />

Mediterranean hartwort Óaxixet it-triera˙ Tordylium apulum<br />

Large Blue alkanet Ilsien il fart ik˙al kbir Anchusa azurea<br />

Greater snapdragon Papoççi ˙omor Antirrhinum tortuosum<br />

Lesser snapdragon Papoççi irqiqa Misopates orontium<br />

Maltese toadflax Papoççi ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Linaria pseudolaxiflora<br />

Maltese fleabane Tulliera ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Chiliadenus bocconei<br />

Yellow germander Bog˙rom komuni Teucrium flavum<br />

Olive leaved germander Ûebbu©ija Teucrium fruticans<br />

Olive leaved binweed Lebliet tal-blat Convolvus oleifolius<br />

Hairy mallow leaved binweed Leblieb tax-xag˙ri Convolvus althaieoides ssp. tenuissimus<br />

Fringed rue Fej©el Ruta chalepensis<br />

Carob Óarruba Ceratonia siliqua<br />

Sicilian squill G˙ansar ik˙al Scilla sicula<br />

Aeonium Kalluwa Aoenuim arboreum<br />

Wolfbane Si©ret tal-˙arir Periploca angustifolia<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


Bushy restharrow Broxka t’G˙awdex Ononis natrix ssp. ramossisima<br />

Hoary roack rose Çistu roΩa Cistus creticus<br />

Almond LewΩa Prunus dulcis<br />

Honey suckle Qarn il-mog˙Ωa Lonicera implexa<br />

Sulla Silla Hedysarum coronarium<br />

Clustered sulla Silla salva©©a Hedysarum spinossimun ssp capitatum<br />

Common Reichardia Qançlita Reichardia picroides<br />

Meadow Saffron Busieq Colchicum cupani<br />

Olive Ûebbu©a Olea europea<br />

Fig tree Tina Ficus carica<br />

African tamarisk Si©ra tal-bruk Tamarix africana<br />

Kidney bladder vetch Silla tal-bΩieΩel Tripodion tetraphyllum<br />

Southern dwarf iris Bellus Iris pseudopumila<br />

Maltese spurge Teng˙ud tax-xag˙ri Euphorbia melitensis<br />

Spiny chicory Qanfuda Chicorum spinosum<br />

Esparto grass Óalfa Lygeum spartum<br />

Sea sharp rush Simar tal-ba˙ar Juncus maritimus<br />

Hispid beard grass Hyparrhenia hirta<br />

Dodder Pittma Cuscuta epithymum<br />

Southern star thistle Xewk ta’ l-g˙otba Centaurea nicaeensis<br />

Silvery ragwort Kromb il-ba˙ar isfar Senecio bicolor<br />

Southern crupina Crupina crupinastrium<br />

Pitch clover Silla tal-mog˙oΩ Bituminaria bituminosa<br />

Cape sorrel Qarsu Oxalis pes-caprae<br />

Birds foot trefoil Qrempuç tal-xatt Lotus cystisoides<br />

Eastern phagnalon Lixka komuni Phagnalon graceum ssp. ginzbergeri<br />

Clustered Carline thistle Sajtun Carlina involucrata<br />

Branched asphodel Berwieq komuni Asphodelus aestivus<br />

Large star of Bethlehem Óalib it-tajr kbir Ornithogalum arabicum<br />

Southern star of Bethlehem Óalib it-tajr Ωg˙ir Ornithogalum narbonense<br />

Freesia FriΩja Freesia refracta<br />

Aleppo pine Ûnuber Pinus halepensis<br />

Mediterranean heath Erika Eika multiflora<br />

Maltese savory Xpakkapietra Satureja microphylla<br />

Blue stone crop BeΩΩul il-baqra Sedum caeruleum<br />

Mediterranean stone crop Sedum Sedum sedifome<br />

Wild madder Robbja salva©©a Rubia peregrina<br />

Pellitory of the wall Xe˙t ir-ri˙ Parietaria judaica<br />

Caper Kappar Capparis orientalis<br />

Sea samphire BuΩbies il-ba˙ar Crithmum maritmum<br />

Golden samphire Xorbett Inula crithmoides<br />

Shrubby crown vetch Koronilla Coronilla valentina<br />

Shrubby kidney vetch Óatba s-sewda Anthyllis hermannaie<br />

Thyme Sag˙tar Thymus capitata<br />

Annual hyoseris Ûigland Ωg˙ir Hyoseris scabra<br />

Wild clary Salvja salva©©a Salvia verbenaca<br />

Sand crocuses Ûag˙rani Romulea sp.<br />

Chaste tree Si©ra tal-virgi Vitex agnus-castus<br />

Kundmannia Kundmannia sicula<br />

Chasmanthe Chasmanthe bicolor<br />

Egyptian St. John’s wort Fexfiex tal-blat Hypericium aegyptium<br />

Black brony Bronja sewda Tamus communis<br />

Spiny oxy eye daisy G˙ajn il-baqra xewwikija Pallenis spinosa<br />

Wild carrot Zunnarija salva©©a Daucus carota<br />

Maltese sea chamomile Bebuna tal-ba˙ar Anthemis urvilleana<br />

Maltese sea lavender Limonju ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Limonju melitensis<br />

Sea heath Erba franka Frankenia hirsuta<br />

Sea squill G˙ansar komuni Urginea pancration<br />

Glandular stork bill Moxt Erodium malacoides<br />

Musk stork bill Óaxixa tal-misk Erodium moschatum<br />

Great reed Buda Arundo donax<br />

Jerusalem sage Salvjun Phlomis fruticosa<br />

Maltese pyramidal orchid Orkida piramidali ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Anacamptis urvilleana<br />

Common pyramidal orchid Orkida piramidali Anacamptis pyramidalis<br />

Maltese spider orchid Brimba sewda ta’ <strong>Malta</strong> Ophrys melitensis<br />

Scented bug orchid Orkida tfu˙ Orchis fragrans<br />

Tongue orchid Orkida ta’ ilsiena Ωg˙ira Serapias parviflora<br />

Bumble bee orchid Na˙la Orchis bombylifora<br />

Fagonia Fagonja Fagonia cratica<br />

Evergreen traveler’s joy Kies˙a Clematis cirrhosa<br />

Pygmy cudweed Evaks Evaks pgymea<br />

Prickly pear Bajtar tax-xewk Opuntia ficus indica<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2


FAUNA AT MAJJISTRAL PARK<br />

A few months ago a substantial chunk of land<br />

which lies within the boundaries of what has now<br />

been designated the Majjistral Park was going to<br />

be completely taken over for the proposed mega<br />

golf course project. This move would have had<br />

devastating effects on the local landscape which<br />

eventually would have destroyed the entire<br />

ecological system present in the area.<br />

It was in September 2007 that the area in the<br />

northwest of <strong>Malta</strong>, which includes the coastal<br />

cliffs known as Rdum Majjiesa and Rdum id-<br />

Delli, as well as the site at Xag˙ra l-Óamra, was<br />

declared a National Park by the Government<br />

of <strong>Malta</strong> by Legal Notice becoming the first<br />

of its kind. The Park has taken the name of<br />

the region, the Northwest, or Majjistral in the<br />

Maltese language.<br />

The most recent boundaries proposed for<br />

the park extend from Golden Bay as far as<br />

Anchor Bay comprising all the coastal zones<br />

known as Rdum Majjiesa and Rdum id-Delli and<br />

extending inland to Xag˙ra l-Óamra up to the<br />

road passing by Manikata church; the park has<br />

an area nearly equal to that of Comino.<br />

Due to its varied nature the park hosts<br />

different habitats in which a large diversity of<br />

flora and fauna is encountered. A number of<br />

species are restricted to a specific habitat while<br />

the majority of species found in this region are<br />

cosmopolitan. Also while most of the species<br />

are resident in the park boundaries, visitors are<br />

encountered that generally are associated with<br />

other areas within the island and others reside<br />

from offshore. Since <strong>Malta</strong> is small all visitors<br />

from outside the island may be found in any<br />

location, i.e. species arriving from Europe or<br />

Africa may be found anywhere on the island but<br />

as a general rule most species as, for example,<br />

migrating insects from the African continent<br />

usually reach the island from the Wied Babu<br />

area (Ûurrieq) and in a few hours reach the park<br />

since it basically harbours the same cliff face.<br />

Since this area was put into focus a number of<br />

studies were conducted to analyse the ecological<br />

impact if most of the latter was transformed into<br />

a golf course and other amenities and these<br />

studies provided some of the first indications<br />

of how rich in biodiversity this part of <strong>Malta</strong> is.<br />

Arnold Sciberras<br />

All these studies can be easily accessed in the<br />

park’s official website www.majjistral.org. Since<br />

then several observations are continuously being<br />

carried out by naturalists most of whom are<br />

volunteers to accumulate data and increase the<br />

knowledge of the ecology within the site. This is<br />

also currently being done in other fields.<br />

This article is just browsing over some<br />

interesting macro fauna (small- to medium-sized<br />

animals) present or frequently recorded in the<br />

park from personal observations and will be<br />

dealing with species ranging from Arthropods<br />

to Mammals. Flora and birds are being excluded<br />

because they are being dealt with in separate<br />

articles. Most of the following fauna are eyecatching<br />

and the ecovisitor or nature enthusiast<br />

will search for and observe the following species.<br />

On the other hand the diversity in the park is<br />

so rich that to list all fauna is impossible due to<br />

studies in progress and would require volumes<br />

of work solely for this purpose.<br />

The first observations that indicated how rich<br />

the park is took place when the first cleanups<br />

started to be taken in hand. When old tanks<br />

replacing rubble walls started to be shifted large<br />

numbers of Common Earthworm (Allolobophora<br />

sp) sometimes having an unusually large size of<br />

more than 35cm were found under them. These<br />

are ecologically very important fauna as they<br />

play a significant role in soil fertility and aeration.<br />

Another annelid encountered in the park is the<br />

Blood Worm (Tubiflex sp) but although common<br />

its distribution is restricted since only a few<br />

rock pools and artificial reservoirs are present.<br />

This makes most of the local freshwater aquatic<br />

animals scarcer in this area.<br />

Where no alien fauna such as the Goldfish<br />

(Carassius auratus) is present freshwater life<br />

is extremely rich. While in the majority of<br />

natural rock pools there are seasonal periods<br />

for biodiversity to proceed in its cycle, most<br />

of the reservoirs contain water all year round<br />

and sustain numerous species of biota in them.<br />

Two types of rockpools were noted in the park,<br />

the most common being the small ones in open<br />

garigue which quickly dry up by late spring.<br />

The other types are deep (over 50cm) rockpools<br />

that collect water from the boulder scree that is<br />

sheltering them also from strong sunlight. Some<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


Arnold Sciberras<br />

Arnold Sciberras<br />

Painted Frog.<br />

of the latter have been modified over time by<br />

local farmers to sustain water almost all year<br />

round.<br />

Fauna expected in the first type of rockpools<br />

but till now never encountered in this area is the<br />

common Fairy Shrimp (Branchipus schaefferi).<br />

The more permanent rockpools sustain<br />

healthy populations of <strong>Malta</strong>’s only indigenous<br />

amphibian, the Painted Frog (Discoglossus pictus<br />

pictus), a number of Lesser Water Boatman<br />

(Corixa affinis) and minute species of Diving<br />

Beetles. In artificial reservoirs large numbers<br />

of Greater Backswimmer (Notonecta maculata),<br />

Large and Black Predacious Diving Beetles<br />

(Dytiscus circumflexus, Meladema coriacea) are<br />

present along with their prey the Water Flea<br />

(Daphnia pulicaria). The most attractive of all<br />

freshwater species are the adults of dragonflies<br />

and the delicate looking damselflies (collectively<br />

known as Odonata) which need a water body to<br />

lay eggs and for the nymph to live in. The park<br />

is one of the few localities in <strong>Malta</strong> where the<br />

Long Skimmer (Orthetrum trinacria) has been<br />

spotted and may be breeding in the vicinity.<br />

During migrations from Africa, the park is one<br />

of the first places to record large numbers of<br />

Lesser and Vagrant Emperors (Anax parthenope<br />

Scarlet Darter.<br />

and Anax ephigger). The recently naturally<br />

colonised Violet Dropwing (Trithemis annulata)<br />

breeds regularly in the area. The Scarlet Darter<br />

(Crocothemis erythraea) is the commonest species<br />

of dragonfly in this as in other places.<br />

In the vicinity of these cool areas one will<br />

generally encounter most of the mollusc species,<br />

the most common being the Edible Snail (Cantereus<br />

asperses), the Goat Snail (Cantareus apertus) and<br />

the Red-banded Snail (Eobania vermiculata). The<br />

Maltese Marmorana (Marmorana melitensis), an<br />

endemic species, is a common sight especially<br />

in summer when it gathers in large numbers<br />

in clumps on dry Common and Giant Fennel<br />

(Foeniculum vulgare, Ferula communis) stalks and<br />

A Daddy-Long-Leg Spider with its prey, the House Centipede.<br />

A Blue Bottle Fly.<br />

other vegetation to keep cool from the extreme<br />

heat that hits the ground. Its white shell also aids<br />

in bouncing back most of the heat waves that hit<br />

upon it.<br />

A large number of 13-15 cm size pale yellow<br />

Common Slugs (Limacus flavus) were found under<br />

remains of wooden doors during a cleanup and<br />

the latter seemed to be enjoying the humidity<br />

the rotten wood and all forms of paper offered<br />

in the vicinity. This species is known as being<br />

able to survive on anything even in this human<br />

litter. Companion species generally found in the<br />

same habitat of the latter such as on the humid<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2<br />

Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras


Arnold Sciberras<br />

walls of the stone corbelled huts (giren in Maltese)<br />

are the Common Millepede (Pachyiulus flavipes),<br />

Daddy-long-legs Spiders (Pholcus phalangioides)<br />

and other species) and the very active House<br />

Centipede (Scutigera coleoptrata) hunting for<br />

smaller insects such as House Flies (Musca<br />

domestica), Bluebottles (Calliphora vicina) and<br />

Moth Flies (Psychoda sp). On the ground of these<br />

huts if not covered completely with limestone<br />

blocks (çangatura in Maltese), Soil Centipedes<br />

(Himantharium gabrielis) are generally present in<br />

the fine soil as they search for the tiny beetle<br />

larvae.<br />

In the same kind of habitat but in a more<br />

natural state such as under loose rocks and in<br />

cracks present in most of the garigue of this<br />

area one finds several species of arthropods<br />

that are favoured by this environment. Several<br />

Woodlouse (Porcellio laevis, Chaetophiloscia<br />

elongata and other Isopoda sp) and Silverfish<br />

(Zygentoma sp) species can be encountered<br />

within the park followed and predated frequently<br />

by the brightly coloured 10cm Yellow Centipede<br />

(Scolopendra cingulata). A number of arachnids<br />

such as the Beady Spider (Steatoda paykulliana)<br />

and the minute pseudoscorpions species<br />

have also been recently encountered. The Pill<br />

Millepede (Glomeris distichella) is a beautiful black<br />

and orange coloured woodlouse-like structure<br />

myriapod and can only be distinguished from<br />

Isopods because of its colors and the fact that<br />

it has more legs which are longer than those<br />

of woodlice. The wingless Field Cockroach<br />

(Loboptera decipiens) and several Earwig species<br />

(Dermaptera sp) are also frequent neighbours<br />

within this environment.<br />

On the rocks and above, the invertebrate<br />

species list is countless ranging from<br />

inconspicuous terrestrial dwelling organisms<br />

to the beautiful coloured highly variable flying<br />

ones. The most common group of insects being<br />

Oak Longhorn Beetle.<br />

Egyptian Grasshoppers mating.<br />

encountered on the ground are the beetles.<br />

Up to now over 50 species of the latter have<br />

been recorded from the site. These include the<br />

common Tortoise Darkling Beetle (Alphasida<br />

grossa melitana), the Maltese Field Beetle (Pimelia<br />

rugulosa melitana), the heavy grass eater Common<br />

Oil Beetle (Meloe tuccius) and the Churchyard<br />

Beetle (Blaps gigas) being the largest flightless<br />

beetles locally.<br />

Desert Locust.<br />

Occasionally in the summer months the<br />

beautiful conspicuous Emerald Chafer (Protaetia<br />

cuprea incerta) is sometimes confused with a<br />

large hymenoptrin such as the Carpenter Bee<br />

(Xylocopa violacea) when with difficulty it lifts<br />

its body in the air and travels from one Wild<br />

Artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) to another to<br />

feed. The only flying coleopteroids that outsize<br />

the latter are the longhorn beetles, the largest in<br />

<strong>Malta</strong> being the Oak long horn (Cerambyx cerdo)<br />

which is a rare sight in the park. This may be<br />

due to the absence of its host plant, the Oak tree<br />

(Quercus ilex).<br />

The park provides an excellent environment<br />

for most of the ortopteroid species. About<br />

10 species of grasshoppers and 7 species of<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras


Arnold Sciberras<br />

crickets have been recorded here. These<br />

include the common Egyptian and Whitebanded<br />

(Anacridium aegyptium, Eyprepocnemis<br />

plorans) grasshoppers. The park is also one of<br />

the first to receive the migrating Desert Locust<br />

(Schistocerca gregaria). Blue-winged Grasshoppers<br />

(Sphingonotus coerulans) are a common sight in the<br />

summer period. Less frequently encountered is<br />

the Mediterranean Slant-faced (Acrida ungarica<br />

mediterranea). Most of the crickets are nocturnal<br />

such as the popular Two-spotted Field Cricket<br />

(Gryllus bimaculatus) but some are diurnal, a<br />

good example being the Green Bush Cricket<br />

(Phaneroptera nana). Other bugs are also being<br />

represented most commonly at their best by the<br />

bright red Soldier Bug (Spilostethus pandurus)<br />

and the noisy summer Cicada (Cicada orni).<br />

Lepidoptera observation is still in its infancy in<br />

this area but a rich diversity is promised; from<br />

ongoing observations it has already become<br />

evident that the beautiful Swallowtail (Papilio<br />

machaon melitensis) is showing an increase in<br />

population number.<br />

As the days tend to become warmer a<br />

constant battle may be observed on the flower<br />

heads. One clear cut example is between several<br />

species of crab spiders (Thomisidae sp), with<br />

flower beetles such as the White-spotted and<br />

Lobed Argiope weaving its web.<br />

Yellow-haired Barbary Bugs (Oxythyrea funesta,<br />

Tropinota squalida) trying to occupy the same<br />

space. Occasionally the huge web of a Lobed<br />

Argiope (Argiope lobata) may be seen bending<br />

two flower stalks.<br />

The number of vertebrate animal species is<br />

low in our islands but assumes extreme ecological<br />

importance. Reptiles like the Ocellated Skink<br />

(Chalcides ocellatus) and both of our local geckos<br />

Ocellated Skink.<br />

Moorish Gecko.<br />

Chameleon.<br />

A juvenile Western Whip Snake.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 2<br />

Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras Arnold Sciberras<br />

Arnold Sciberras


Arnold Sciberras<br />

Lesser Horseshoe Bat.<br />

(Tarentola mauritanica, Hemidactylus turcicus) are<br />

a common sight in the park as is the introduced<br />

chameleon (Chamaeleo chamaeleon). Both the<br />

Western Whip Snake and Cat Snake (Hierophis<br />

viridiflavus, Telescopus fallax) were encountered<br />

much more regularly than the ever decreasing<br />

Leopard Snake (Zamensis situla). Although the<br />

park is an ideal habitat for the endemic Maltese<br />

Wall Lizard (Podarcis filfolensis maltensis), it lacks<br />

the species as does all of the northwest of the<br />

island.<br />

The park is one of the best places for the Vagrant<br />

Hedgehog (Erinaceus algirus). Unfortunately<br />

several of these hedgehogs are run over by vehicles<br />

as they cross the many roads that go through the<br />

area. Wild rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) and the<br />

other four rodent species (Muridae sp) share the<br />

habitat and the surrounding agricultural fields<br />

while rarely a feast is made on the latter by the<br />

graceful Weasel (Mustela nivalis). Old remains and<br />

a few caves are home to the remarkable and silent<br />

Maltese Wall Lizard.<br />

Chiroptera species such as the Lesser Horseshoe<br />

and Mag˙reb Mouse Eared Bats (Rhinolphus<br />

hipposideros, Myotis punicus).<br />

<strong>Malta</strong> is rich in biodiversity and Majjistral is<br />

no exception and proves that where the land<br />

is still unspoilt (unfortunately a lot is) most of<br />

the biodiversity is at its best, and where already<br />

degraded, if given a chance, life will find a way<br />

and enable nature to regenerate. All we need<br />

to do is to protect this heritage from each other<br />

for each other by promoting education, raising<br />

awareness and giving a helping hand when<br />

needed. As for the rest we can just sit aside and<br />

let nature take its course.<br />

References<br />

CASHA, ALEX (2004). Where to watch birds and other wildlife<br />

in <strong>Malta</strong>. BirdLife (<strong>Malta</strong>)<br />

HASLAM, S.M. & BORG, J. (1998). The River Valleys of the<br />

Maltese Islands. The Islands and Small States Institute.<br />

SCIBERRAS, A. (2004). Put a sign to save a life. The Sunday<br />

Times. December 19 th p.15<br />

SCIBERRAS, A, SCIBERRAS J. & MAGRO, D. (2007).<br />

A Celebration of Dragonflies. The <strong>Malta</strong> Independent.<br />

November 19 th pp.8-9.<br />

www.majjistral.org - accessed 2.4.2008<br />

Acknowledgments<br />

Mag˙reb Mouse Eared Bat.<br />

The author would like to thank Jeffrey Sciberras, Annalise<br />

Falzon and Esther Schembri for their assistance in field<br />

work.<br />

The author is the Ranger of Majjistral Park.<br />

30 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Arnold Sciberras


ThE AvIFAUNA OF XAgÓRA L-ÓAMRA<br />

Due to the widespread trapping and hunting<br />

at Xag˙ra l-Óamra the avifauna of the area<br />

has, until fairly recently, rarely been studied.<br />

In all past ornithological works there is hardly<br />

any mention of the avifauna of the site. But<br />

in 2006 the <strong>Malta</strong> Environment and Planning<br />

Authority commissioned the preparation of an<br />

Ornithological Management Plan of the area<br />

with the main aim of identifying the breeding,<br />

migrating and wintering birds of ix-Xag˙ra l-<br />

Óamra (Borg 2006). The status of the species is<br />

based on the information which is available in this<br />

plan while the species’ behaviour, particularly<br />

related to their nesting habits, is based on<br />

Birdlife <strong>Malta</strong>’s publication Bil-Bejta! G˙asafar<br />

li jbejtu f’<strong>Malta</strong> (Sultana 1999). It is also based<br />

on an ornithological coastal zone management<br />

subject plan prepared at the request of MEPA<br />

(Sultana & Borg 2002).<br />

The extensive garrigue area, the rocky<br />

outcrops, the rdum-type habitat, the longuncultivated<br />

fields, and the scattered areas of<br />

agricultural land found at Xag˙ra l-Óamra<br />

provide a good habitat for several bird species<br />

Sardinian Warbler male at its nest.<br />

Joe Sultana & John J. Borg<br />

representing the four categories of the avifauna<br />

of the Maltese Islands – breeding birds, wintering<br />

birds, migratory birds and vagrants.<br />

Seven species of birds are known to breed in the<br />

area. These can be separated into two categories<br />

– resident species, such as the Sardinian<br />

Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), which is found<br />

all year round, and summer visitors such as<br />

the Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla),<br />

which arrives in spring, breeds in the area, and<br />

Short-toed Lark.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />

Joe Sultana Joe Sultana


Joe Sultana<br />

departs in autumn. One of the resident species<br />

is the Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius),<br />

the national bird of <strong>Malta</strong>, which is often seen<br />

frequenting rubble walls and rocky outcrops in<br />

the area. The species is present all year round,<br />

and one can frequently see it foraging for food<br />

or hear the male’s melodious song particularly<br />

in spring while in song-flight or from an exposed<br />

perch. A few pairs nest along the rocky coast<br />

mainly in a fissure or crevice in the cliffs. Nestbuilding<br />

starts in March and the first young<br />

birds may fledge in early May.<br />

The Short-toed Lark (Calandrella<br />

brachydactyla), is a bird which inhabits the open<br />

tree-less countryside, frequenting agricultural<br />

land and areas of garrigue. It finds the perfect<br />

habitat at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra. It arrives in late<br />

March and by the end of April it is already<br />

breeding in the area. It nests on the ground,<br />

building a nest in a small shallow hole, which the<br />

bird scrapes in the soil, generally in the shelter of<br />

a small plant, or even a stone, in the open rocky<br />

areas, as well as in fields, whether cultivated or<br />

not. Its persisting, high pitched but simple song,<br />

composed of a few notes, repeated over and over<br />

again, delivered while flying high in the air, is<br />

characteristic of the spring and summer days<br />

Spanish Sparrow male at its nest-hole.<br />

in the area. By the end of summer adults and<br />

juvenile birds congregate in flocks preparing to<br />

leave the area well before winter sets in.<br />

As expected, the area also hosts a large<br />

population of the commonest breeding species<br />

in the Maltese Islands, the ever-present Spanish<br />

Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis). Its breeding<br />

season starts in February and may continue all<br />

throughout spring and summer. Any spot will<br />

do for a nesting site – trees, electricity pylons,<br />

water-spouts, as well as holes and crevices in<br />

buildings, walls and cliffs.<br />

The two long-time breeding warblers of the<br />

Maltese Islands, the Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia<br />

melanocephala) and the Spectacled Warbler<br />

(Sylvia conspicillata), are also found all year<br />

round here, and in spite of having different<br />

habits and behaviour, both nest in the area.<br />

Whilst the Sardinian Warbler is a widespread<br />

species nesting in various types of habitats, and<br />

consequently the commoner of the two, the<br />

Spectacled Warbler, is a shy bird, and prefers<br />

secluded areas with low scrub. The latter was<br />

formerly a widespread species, but now it is<br />

thinly spread and confined to a few places which<br />

offer a quiet open countryside. Only three to five<br />

3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


Joe Sultana<br />

Spectacled Warbler female at its nest.<br />

pairs have been noted at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra in<br />

recent years during the breeding season.<br />

The Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis) started<br />

colonising the Maltese Islands in the 1970s and<br />

now is a resident breeding species and quite<br />

widespread, including at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />

It is a very small grassland bird, which builds a<br />

curious nest in the shape of a wide-necked bottle,<br />

usually well-knitted within a clump of high<br />

grass. In spite of being the smallest bird which<br />

nests locally, one cannot miss the male which<br />

is continuously uttering its “zip zip” call while<br />

patrolling its territory. The male is polygamous<br />

and may have more than one or two females. Up<br />

to 10 patrolling males have been counted in the<br />

area in recent years.<br />

Zitting Cisticola - female removing a faecal sac from the nest.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

The breeding population of the Corn<br />

Bunting (Emberiza calandra) has crashed in<br />

the Maltese islands in the past 15 years, with<br />

only a few pairs still breeding in Gozo and an<br />

even smaller number in the northern parts<br />

of <strong>Malta</strong>. One pair was still holding on at ix-<br />

Xag˙ra l-Óamra in the last five years. The use of<br />

pesticides, the ever-increasing leisure activities<br />

and presence of vehicles in the countryside,<br />

changes in agricultural practices, high predation<br />

by the Western Whipsnake and the increase of<br />

the rats’ population may have all contributed to<br />

this species’ decline. It would be most unfortunate<br />

if the characteristic spring song of the male is<br />

heard no more at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />

Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra is strategically located<br />

on the north-west coast of <strong>Malta</strong>, and forms<br />

part of a rift valley system, which includes cliffs<br />

and boulder screes. Given this location and<br />

its topography, the site receives considerable<br />

numbers of migratory birds of various species<br />

particularly during easterly winds. During<br />

the spring and autumn migration the area is<br />

important for migrants, especially for those,<br />

which have been brought down by adverse<br />

weather conditions. Such “falls” of migrant birds<br />

have been noted to occur here. ‘Coasting’ by<br />

many migrants is also noted to occur frequently<br />

during migration, when birds fly along the coast,<br />

either to shelter from winds or to settle for a rest.<br />

Whilst weather conditions affect the numbers of<br />

Joe Sultana


Joe Sultana<br />

Corn Bunting.<br />

migrants, there is always a consistent migration<br />

of birds through ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra both in<br />

spring and autumn. Although rocky ridges and<br />

coastal areas seem to be most favoured by bird<br />

species of open country, on migration all kinds<br />

of birds, even those which favour woodland and<br />

other types of habitats, are invariably recorded<br />

here.<br />

When the autumn movement of trans-<br />

Saharan migrants comes to an end another set<br />

of European birds start arriving to spend the<br />

winter in the area. These are the wintering birds<br />

which arrive in the Maltese Islands in autumn<br />

and depart in spring. Birds such as the White<br />

Wagtail (Motacilla alba), the Robin (Erithacus<br />

rubecula) and the Common Stonechat (Saxicola<br />

torqauatus), are those species, which generally<br />

spend the winter in the Mediterranean basin.<br />

These species are regularly recorded in the<br />

Maltese Islands and many of them stay for the<br />

entire winter until they return to European<br />

breeding grounds in March. Several species of<br />

wintering birds occur regularly at ix-Xag˙ra l-<br />

Óamra. The Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis),<br />

the Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), the<br />

Dunnock (Prunella modularis), the Blackcap<br />

(Sylvia atricapilla), as well as the Common<br />

Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita) are regularly<br />

present in the area during the winter months,<br />

and on fine days they all make their presence<br />

seen and heard.<br />

The setting up of a national nature park<br />

at ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra, backed by a sound<br />

management plan, augurs well for the future of<br />

the avifauna of the area, particularly if the plan<br />

also affords full legal protection to the birdlife<br />

inhabiting the site. It is hoped that this project<br />

would safeguard the habitat of several vulnerable<br />

bird species, which should be provided with<br />

adequate protection. The safe presence of birds<br />

would greatly enhance this site of landscape and<br />

ecological importance<br />

References<br />

BORG, J.J. 2006. The Ornithology of the Coastal Zone of<br />

Xag˙ra l-Óamra. Management Plan. Unpublished report<br />

commissioned by MEPA.<br />

SULTANA, J. & GAUCI, C. 1982. A new Guide to the Birds<br />

of <strong>Malta</strong>. The Ornithological Society, Valletta.<br />

SULTANA, J. 1999. Bil-Bejta! G˙asafar li jbejtu f’<strong>Malta</strong>.<br />

BirdLife <strong>Malta</strong>, Ta’ Xbiex.<br />

SULTANA, J. & BORG, J.J. 2002. Coastal Zone Management<br />

Plan – Ornithology. Unpublished report commissioned<br />

by MEPA.<br />

3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


disCovEring CUltUral HEritagE<br />

AT ThE MAJJISTRAL PARK<br />

<strong>Malta</strong> is one of the most densely populated<br />

countries in Europe. It is increasingly being built<br />

up, covered with concrete and stone or plastered<br />

in tarmac, and in recent decades our open spaces<br />

have shrunk at an alarming rate. It is vital,<br />

therefore, that certain sections of the remaining<br />

countryside, such as the Majjistral Park, are<br />

preserved in as natural a state as possible, strictly<br />

designated as zones in which any further human<br />

intervention is ruled out, and that a concerted<br />

effort is made to rehabilitate areas within these<br />

zones which have become degraded.<br />

Here people are able to enjoy open spaces,<br />

to walk and ramble, cycle, enjoy the fresh air<br />

and learn about nature, and perhaps even feel<br />

a sense of ‘wilderness’ – a feeling which has<br />

become so rare to come across on our islands<br />

that I am sure that many of our children have<br />

never experienced it.<br />

Immersed in the beauty of nature, one is<br />

encouraged to relax and leave mundane routine<br />

View from Ta’ Ciantar.<br />

Petra Bianchi<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Trapping site being reclaimed back by nature’s bindweed.<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Experiencing the open spaces.<br />

and cares behind, and to begin to sense the slow<br />

movement of time. Repeated visits help create<br />

an understanding of the effect that the passing<br />

of the seasons has on the landscape, and the<br />

age and splendour of the ancient earth around<br />

us.<br />

Our national identity is partly dependent on<br />

sharing, in our national consciousness, the vision<br />

and appreciation of a familiar and unchanging<br />

natural setting and terrain. Changes in our<br />

urban landscape are taking place so rapidly, that<br />

the dwindling and fading countryside is playing<br />

an ever more central and necessary role in our<br />

self-perception.<br />

In truth, it is hard to find any corner of our<br />

natural landscape which has not been modified<br />

Country paths.<br />

Old cistern.<br />

Dry stone wall and archway at Rdum Majjiesa.<br />

Old stone stairways down to the Rdum.<br />

3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Hypogeum reused as animal pens.<br />

in some way by human hands. Embedded in<br />

every crack and fissure, there are strata of human<br />

history going back years, if not centuries. As<br />

people move through the landscape, or interact<br />

in some way with the countryside, they leave the<br />

traces of their traditions and activities behind<br />

them.<br />

The past traditions and activities of the<br />

landscape enrich our understanding of both the<br />

cultural history and the natural topography of<br />

the area. While any further new interventions<br />

in the Majjistral Park must now be excluded<br />

and various areas rehabilitated, however some<br />

of the existing cultural and rural features<br />

within the park should be preserved and<br />

appreciated.<br />

Various features of cultural interest that merit<br />

conservation lie within the boundaries of the Park.<br />

These features include cart-ruts, long rubble<br />

walls (dry stone walls), small old farmhouses, sets<br />

of beehives, tombs dating to the Classical period,<br />

natural caves, and numerous corbelled stone<br />

huts (giren in Maltese) traditionally used for both<br />

storage and shelter, all of which lie within and<br />

around the Park.<br />

There are also notable remains of British<br />

military architecture in the area, mainly dating<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Dry stone walls.<br />

Cart ruts towards Manikata.<br />

to the early twentieth century. Two large sets<br />

of military barracks used during the British<br />

period lie just outside the present confines of<br />

the Park, which were used for military exercises<br />

and training. A military shooting range also<br />

exists within the Park.<br />

A camouflaged Second World War pillbox<br />

exists near the Manikata area, and there is<br />

another in the G˙ajn Ûnuber area. During the<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Farmhouse complex and ancient hypogeum nearby.<br />

An old L shaped farmhouse with animal pens.<br />

Entrenchment and coastal towers in the background.<br />

First World War, wounded soldiers from the<br />

Battle of the Dardanelles (Battle of Gallipoli)<br />

were brought to a large hospital camp erected in<br />

the vicinity of the sandy beach for a quiet period<br />

of convalescence.<br />

Remains of cart-ruts (man-made grooves cut<br />

or worn into the natural rock), ancient stone<br />

quarries and megalithic walls also lie behind<br />

the interesting modern church in the village<br />

of Manikata, which was built in the early 1970s<br />

3 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Military training ranges dating to the late British period.<br />

by the well-known architect Richard England.<br />

Undated cart-ruts also exist in other areas of the<br />

Xag˙ra l-Óamra plateau.<br />

On the two sides of the valley overlooking<br />

Golden Bay (ir-Ramla tal-Mixquqa), there are<br />

entrenchments built as part of a coastal defence<br />

system during the period of the Knights of St.<br />

John, in the early eighteenth century.<br />

The Majjistral Park lies along the coast,<br />

and is characterised by a rocky coastline which<br />

provides a rugged and steep interface between<br />

the land and sea, as well as the popular sandy<br />

beach ‘Golden Bay’. The coastline is a precious<br />

resource for a variety of marine-related activities,<br />

including tourism and recreation.<br />

The Park contains farmed agricultural land as<br />

well as an open garigue landscape with extremely<br />

high exposure to the strong elements of sun, sea<br />

and wind that prevail along the coast, reflected<br />

in the diverse varieties of hardy flora and fauna<br />

which survive in these harsh conditions.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

A wartime pillbox partially hidden in grass.<br />

The agricultural element is still widespread. A concrete pillbox.<br />

One of the many wartime gunposts.<br />

The cultural features of the area are intimately<br />

linked to the geographical landscape and terrain<br />

in which they are situated. The historian Fernand<br />

Braudel was among the first to emphasise that<br />

human history is intimately linked to geographical<br />

space, and that man’s relationship with the<br />

environment is central to the understanding of<br />

the unique social history of a place.<br />

Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon Annalise Falzon


Michael Falzon<br />

tHE girna: tHE MaltEsE<br />

CorbEllEd stonE HUt<br />

Girna (pl. giren or grieni) is the local name<br />

given to the corbelled stone huts which one<br />

comes across when walking in the countryside.<br />

These structures are much more common in<br />

the north and northwest of <strong>Malta</strong>; in the south<br />

and east of the island, as well as in Gozo, the<br />

girna rarely makes an appearance. The largest<br />

concentration of giren is probably that found in<br />

the area bounded by the Red Tower, Çirkewwa<br />

and L-A˙rax tal-Mellie˙a; the next largest is<br />

found in the area of G˙ajn Ûnuber, Il-Manikata<br />

and Ix-Xag˙ra l-Óamra.<br />

The girna is typically built on an outcrop of<br />

solid rock and is constructed with undressed<br />

stone found in the vicinity. No binding with<br />

mortar is used for the walls while the roof is<br />

An example of a round girna.<br />

Prof. Joseph M. Falzon<br />

usually covered with small stones, rubble and<br />

soil occasionally bound with ground potsherd<br />

known as diffun.<br />

The method of construction is that known as<br />

corbelling which is achieved by stacking rocks in<br />

circular courses, each course becoming smaller<br />

as it inches inward until it all comes together at<br />

the top, close enough to be topped by one or two<br />

large flat stones.<br />

Corbelling was probably the first solution to<br />

the problem of putting a permanent roof over<br />

a space, preceding the true arch by more than<br />

two thousand years.<br />

Most giren have a circular ground plan but<br />

0 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


Michael Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Girna interior showing corbelling.<br />

An example of a rectangular girna.<br />

one occasionally comes across a girna with a<br />

rectangular or square floor plan. The internal<br />

diameter of the round girna is rarely over 2.5m;<br />

the length and width of the rectangular girna<br />

only infrequently exceed 2.5m.<br />

The smallest girna recorded by Fsadni (1992)<br />

has a diameter of just over one metre while the<br />

largest measures just under five metres across.<br />

The latter apparently was never completed;<br />

perhaps the corbelling technique does not<br />

permit the bridging of such dimensions.<br />

In the old days the girna provided space for<br />

storing farm implements and shelter from the<br />

elements for farmer or goatherd. Some of the<br />

more sophisticated giren have niches, mangers<br />

and cupboard-like recesses in the wall.<br />

The large majority of giren are round and<br />

externally present as truncated cones.<br />

This particular shape is probably the oldest<br />

and goes back at least to the Bronze Age. Some<br />

archaeologists have argued that the Mnajdra<br />

temples show evidence of the use of the corbelling<br />

technique of roofing over a space. The technique<br />

is also observed abroad in other stone structures<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 41


Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

of the Bronze Age as for instance in the nuraghe<br />

of Sardinia.<br />

The rectangular giren appear to be derived<br />

from the original round ones; internally they are<br />

interesting in the way that the square ground<br />

plan rises course over course evolving into a<br />

rounded dome. The larger giren have a double<br />

wall each made of larger stones with an infilling<br />

of rubble, soil and small stones. A number of<br />

the larger giren are ringed with a third wall<br />

used to buttress walls which could have shown<br />

an indication of possible collapse. There are<br />

two examples of such buttressing at Xag˙ra l-<br />

Óamra.<br />

Dating these structures presents problems as<br />

the method of construction has been virtually<br />

unchanged over thousands of years: some of<br />

those still standing could go back to prehistoric<br />

Square girna with massive cornerstones.<br />

times while according to Fsadni (1992) some<br />

were erected in the twentieth century, one as<br />

late as 1974 (p. 64).<br />

References<br />

FSADNI, MICHAEL O.P. The Girna: The Maltese Corbelled<br />

Stone Hut, Dominican <strong>Publications</strong>, <strong>Malta</strong>, 1992.<br />

CASSAR, PAUL. The corbelled stone huts of the Maltese<br />

Islands, in Man, April 1961.<br />

An example of buttressing. Girna interior showing capstone.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon


tHE Coastal and MarinE EnvironMEnt<br />

Despite having an area of just 2.6km 2 , which<br />

pales when compared with other European parks,<br />

the Majjistral Park in the northwest of <strong>Malta</strong><br />

boasts a total coastline length of approximately<br />

10km, which is equivalent to almost 4% of the<br />

total coastline of the Maltese Islands. Needless<br />

to say, therefore, the coastal environment merits<br />

a place in the limelight when describing the<br />

natural assets of the area.<br />

Most of the coastal area of the park (with the<br />

exception of the northernmost and southernmost<br />

fringes of the park) is dominated by rugged<br />

boulder screes, which owe their formation to<br />

the friable nature of Greensand (Rina) which is<br />

eroded, thus placing overlying rock formations<br />

(Upper Coralline Limestone – Qawwi ta’ Fuq)<br />

in jeopardy due to a lack of support. The UCL<br />

consequently tumbles down the cliff face, forming<br />

an impenetrable mosaic of boulders, some of<br />

which are bathed in seawater. Especially aweinspiring<br />

are the majestic boulders at Rdum id-<br />

Ramla tal-Mixquqa is an example of a pocket sandy beach.<br />

Dr. Alan Deidun<br />

Delli, where the process of boulder detachment<br />

is so extensive that wide gashes in the cliff face<br />

can be encountered.<br />

As a result of the shelter and relative<br />

inaccessibility from human disturbance that<br />

boulder screes offer, this specialized, minor (since<br />

not forming part of the sclerophyll successional<br />

series, such as steppe and garigue) habitat acts as<br />

an important refuge for many floral and faunal<br />

species, including many endemics. The elusive<br />

Blue Rock Thrush (Merill) is often observed<br />

ensconced amongst boulders. The overlying<br />

cliffs also support a diverse rupestral assemblage,<br />

despite the minimal amount of soil and the low<br />

nutrient levels that they present, with most of<br />

the local endemics finding their last foothold in<br />

such assemblages, presumably due to the lack of<br />

competition from other genres of species. Due<br />

to the high degree of exposure to wave action<br />

that rupestral assemblages are subjected to,<br />

most of the plants they harbour are halophytes<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4<br />

Dr Alan Deidun


Dr Alan Deidun<br />

Spanish Golden Thistle.<br />

and can withstand high salt loads, besides being<br />

able to conserve water, and are typical of coastal<br />

garigue areas. Examples of endemic plants one<br />

may encounter along the park’s cliffs include<br />

the Maltese Cliff Orache (Bjanka ta’ l-Irdum),<br />

Maltese Fleabane (Tulliera Selva©©a), Maltese<br />

Salt-Tree (Xebb) and Maltese Sea-Lavender<br />

(Limonju ta’ <strong>Malta</strong>), which mingle with more<br />

opportunistic species such as the Caper (Kappar)<br />

and the species of snapdragons (Papoççi).<br />

The Majjistral Park also nurtures a pocket<br />

sandy beach – that of Ramla tal-Mixquqa. Pocket<br />

beaches are typically flanked by headlands on both<br />

sides, which restricts longshore currents and the<br />

exchange of sediment and biota from one beach<br />

to another, and by their limited dimensions. The<br />

coastal geomorphology of the Maltese Islands is<br />

anomalous in that, whilst estimates of the global<br />

coastal extent of sandy areas range from 20%<br />

(Finkl, 2004) to 75% (Bascom, 1980), just 2.4%<br />

of the coastline of the Maltese Islands is sandy<br />

(Schembri, 1991).<br />

The beach is backed by dune remnants, which<br />

have been listed by Schembri (1991) as one of<br />

only five localities which supported dunes with<br />

a relatively intact characteristic dune vegetation<br />

community. In spite of this, the remnants show<br />

extensive symptoms of human degradation,<br />

ranging from trampling by occasional bathers<br />

seeking refuge from the sun, dumping of waste<br />

and the consequential spread of opportunistic/<br />

ruderal species such as the Giant Reed (Qasba)<br />

and the Hottentot Fig (Swaba tal-Madonna).<br />

Frequently encountered dunal plants on site<br />

include: Maritime Sea-Rocket (Kromb il-Ba˙ar),<br />

Sea Daffodil (Pankrazju) with its dazzling,<br />

unsullen-white flowers and distinct charcoal-like<br />

seeds, Spanish Edible Thistle (Xewk Isfar tar-<br />

Ramel), Sand Dropseed (Ni©em tar-Ramel), Sand<br />

Couch (Sikrana tar-Ramel) and Mediterranean<br />

Stocks (GiΩi tal-Ba˙ar) with their compelling<br />

deep purple flowers which have been extirpated<br />

from many other dunal areas. Cassar & Stevens<br />

(2002) assign the dune remnants at Ramla tal-<br />

Mixquqa a score of 3 for future prospects and for<br />

the state of the dunal vegetation on the arbitrary<br />

scale of 1-5 (with 1 being the lowest value and 5<br />

being the highest)<br />

Adaptations shown by dunal plants include<br />

the ability to withstand burial by sand, an<br />

extensive root/rhizome system which helps to<br />

stabilize the mobile sand substratum to render it<br />

more congenial for further vegetal colonization,<br />

seed dormancy and deep burial (in the form of<br />

tubers or bulbs) in some species, a resistance to<br />

a high salt load (also through the exudation of<br />

salt through specialized glands) and xerophytic<br />

The stunning Sea Daffodil (Pankrazju) flower.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Dr Alan Deidun


features to mitigate excessive loss of precious<br />

water, such as a thick cuticle, leaf rolling,<br />

hairiness and aromaticity.<br />

Several studies (e.g. Deidun et al., 2003;<br />

Deidun & Schembri, 2005) have also hinted at<br />

the ecological importance of unvegetated ‘bare<br />

sand’ communities (i.e. those found seawards<br />

of dunes), with a number of psammophilic<br />

(sand-specific) species being recorded from<br />

the beach at Ramla tal-Mixquqa, despite its<br />

popularity with locals and tourists alike during<br />

the bathing season. Some of these species are<br />

endemic ones, including the tenebrionid beetle<br />

Pseudoseriscius cameroni, which is even listed and<br />

protected under Annex II of the EU’s Habitats<br />

Directive. The resilience of these species can be<br />

attributed to their many adaptations, namely<br />

their nocturnal habit, their cryptic colouration,<br />

their polyphagous nature (i.e. their ability to<br />

exploit different food resources) and their<br />

ability to burrow, even to great depths, within<br />

the sand.<br />

The beach at Ramla tal-Mixquqa is also<br />

embellished with a small patch of shingle at one<br />

The rugged Rdum id-Delli stretch.<br />

end – conservation importance of such cobble<br />

beach pockets, which harbour their own distinct<br />

faunal assemblages, has been highlighted in the<br />

study by Gauci et al. (2005). Considerable seagrass<br />

amounts are beached at Ramla tal-Mixquqa –<br />

such wrack forms extensive accumulations<br />

known as banquettes, whose ecological<br />

significance cannot be gainsaid. In fact, such<br />

accumulations help fight beach erosion by<br />

trapping sand beneath them, are a useful source<br />

of organic input to the beach, may relay floral<br />

and faunal species from one beach to another<br />

through the phenomenon of rafting and harbour<br />

a disntinct suite of stenoecious (narrow-range)<br />

species, such as different species of wrack flies<br />

(some of which are endemic), centipedes and<br />

millipedes. Banquette assemblages have also<br />

been studied locally (Saliba, 2004).<br />

In view of the manifold ecological assets of the<br />

park’s coastal area, it is hardly surprising that the<br />

same area is peppered with scheduled sites – to<br />

mention just the most emblematic, the cliffs from<br />

Ramla tal-Mixquqa to il-Prajjiet are scheduled<br />

at Level 2 as an Area of Ecological Importance<br />

(AEI) by virtue of Government Notice 400/96<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4<br />

Dr Alan Deidun


Dr Alan Deidun<br />

The Star Coral - one of the many protected marine species.<br />

which schedules the entire western cliff flank of<br />

<strong>Malta</strong> from BirΩebbu©a to Mellie˙a. In addition,<br />

the sand dune remnants at il-Bajja tal-Mixquqa<br />

are also scheduled at Level 1 as an AEI and an<br />

SSI (Site of Scientific Importance) by virtue of<br />

GN 401/96.<br />

The marine area off the lower fringes of the<br />

park (to the south of Xag˙ra tal-Majjiesa) have<br />

been designated as part of the Rdum Majjiesa-<br />

Ras ir-Ra˙eb Marine Protected Area (MPA).<br />

The area was earmarked for the establishment<br />

of an MPA as it ‘is a representative of all major<br />

marine habitats and seascapes around the<br />

Maltese Islands’. In fact, within the precinct of<br />

the MPA, one can encounter a mosaic of the<br />

following marine habitats/biotopes: Posidonia<br />

oceanica (Neptune Grass) meadows, sandbanks,<br />

reefs Posidonia beds intermingled with patches of<br />

reefs and submerged or partially submerged sea<br />

caves. The seabed’s and substratum topologies<br />

are also highly diverse, with the gently-sloping<br />

seabed giving way to sheer drop-offs in other<br />

regions of the MPA, whilst a composite of<br />

different sediment grains sizes, ranging from<br />

mud to cobble, blanket the sea bottom.<br />

Besides the iconic Posidonia oceanica, the MPA’s<br />

precincts also feature a number of other protected<br />

species, including the Date Mussel (Tamra), the<br />

Noble Pen Shell (Nakkra), the Star Coral<br />

(Qroll tad-Dell) and different Sea fir species<br />

(Çistosejri). The conservation importance of<br />

the marine environment off the Majistral Park is<br />

underpinned through the inclusion, during the<br />

MPA’s zonation exercise, of an ‘Entry No Take<br />

Zone’, just to the north of Ramla tal-Mixquqa, for<br />

which free access is permitted for low-intensity,<br />

non-deleterious human activities, whilst the<br />

taking of species from the area is prohibited.<br />

References<br />

BASCOM, W. 1980. Waves and beaches. Anchor Press/<br />

Doubleday Publishing. New York, USA: 366pp.<br />

CASSAR, L., & STEVENS, D. 2002. Coastal sand dunes under<br />

siege, A guide to conservation for environmental managers.<br />

International Environment Institute. Foundation for<br />

International Studies. Valletta, <strong>Malta</strong>: 194pp.<br />

DEIDUN, A., AZZOPARDI, M., SALIBA, S. & SCHEMBRI,<br />

P.J. 2003. Low faunal diversity on Maltese sandy<br />

beaches: fact or artefact? Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf<br />

Science 58: 83-92.<br />

DEIDUN, A. & SCHEMBRI, P.J. 2005. The composition of<br />

the nocturnal motile fauna from the upper infralittoral<br />

fringe of sandy beaches in the Central Mediterranean:<br />

are there any implications for conservation? Biologia<br />

Marina Mediterranea 13 (1): 355 – 363.<br />

FINKL, C.W. 2004. Coastal classification: systematic<br />

approaches to consider in the development of a<br />

comprehensive scheme. Journal of Coastal Research 20<br />

(1): 166-213.<br />

GAUCI, M., DEIDUN, A. & SCHEMBRI, P.J., 2005.<br />

Faunistic diversity of Maltese pocket sandy and shingle<br />

beaches: are these of conservation value?, Oceanologia 27<br />

(2): 219-241.<br />

SALIBA, S. 2004. Aspects of the ecology of the faunal<br />

assemblages associated with wrack stranded on the Maltese<br />

shores. Unpublished MSc dissertation. University of<br />

<strong>Malta</strong>: 206pp.<br />

SCHEMBRI, P.J. 1991. Report of Survey: National Resources;<br />

<strong>Malta</strong> Structure Plan, Technical Report No. 5.4: vii +<br />

138pp.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


gEoMorPHiC ProCEssEs at<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL PARK AND ITS ENvIRONS<br />

Avertano Rolé, Geography Dept. University of <strong>Malta</strong><br />

avertano.role@um.edu.mt<br />

The newly designated Majjistral Park<br />

possesses a strikingly bare landscape which<br />

offers several opportunities for the observation<br />

of geomorphic processes. This landscape is quite<br />

varied but can be conveniently subdivided into<br />

three distinct units: a series of dissected Upper<br />

Coralline Limestone platforms, a coastal slope<br />

dominated by rock sliding processes, and two<br />

bays located at the northern and southernmost<br />

extremities of the park precincts. The severely<br />

indented character of the Park boundary is,<br />

unfortunately, not conducive to a holistic<br />

treatment of its geomorphology. For this reason,<br />

this article may consider processes which extend<br />

onto areas which are contiguous with the park.<br />

Geological Structure of the Majjistral Area:<br />

The most common surface rock exposed at the<br />

Majjistral site is the Upper Coralline Limestone.<br />

Geomorphology and geological structure at Il-Majjistral.<br />

This is largely characterised by an outcrop of<br />

Tal-Pitkal Member of this particular formation.<br />

Such a lithology makes up the flat, tilted<br />

platforms which dip towards the northeast. This<br />

geological formation is characterised by a dense<br />

crystalline limestone which is heavily jointed in<br />

most places. It weathers into typical limestone<br />

pavements interspersed with irregularly<br />

shaped depressions formed by solution. The<br />

accumulation of regolith in such depressions<br />

eventually develops into Terra Rossa soils and<br />

this accelerates solution since biological activity<br />

creates mildly acidic conditions in these hollows.<br />

Therefore, the dominating geomorphic process<br />

of such limestone platforms is typically karstic. It<br />

is interesting to note that the reddish tinge of the<br />

rocks in this area is due to the relatively higher<br />

content of iron oxide in the rock formation.<br />

Probably the most significant process in<br />

shaping Maltese landscapes is block faulting<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4


Annalise Falzon<br />

Typical limestone pavement developed over an Upper Coralline<br />

Limestone surface. Solution by rainwater produces depressions<br />

which are filled by poorly-developed Terra Rossa soils.<br />

and folding and this site is no exception. Much<br />

of the geological structure of the area owes its<br />

origins to block faulting and synclinal folding.<br />

This has created a series of horst and graben<br />

structures (ridges and troughs respectively)<br />

which extend north-eastwards from the park<br />

territory. The southern extremity of the park,<br />

composed of Golden Bay (Ramla tal-Mixquqa)<br />

is the westernmost extension of the graben<br />

structure which is better known as Pwales Valley.<br />

Further north, the Xag˙ra l-Óamra area is a<br />

western extension of Bajda Ridge. This, in turn,<br />

is separated from Mellie˙a Ridge by the western<br />

extension of the MiΩieb syncline. The net result<br />

of all this is a pleasantly undulating landscape of<br />

ridges and troughs.<br />

Faulting reveals some of the stratigraphic<br />

sequence which underlies the upper coralline<br />

formation and this is most evident along<br />

the coastal slope which forms the western<br />

margins of the park. Immediately below the<br />

Upper Coralline limestone formation, a very<br />

thin, discontinuous layer of greensand and<br />

foraminiferal packstone is often encountered 1 .<br />

This rarely reaches more than one metre in<br />

thickness but it plays an important geomorphic<br />

role since it weathers very easily. It is often at this<br />

Blue Clay is exposed along much of the shoreline. This rock is easily<br />

eroded and is often sparsely vegetated thus forming characteristic<br />

talus.<br />

elevation that the Upper Coralline limestone<br />

is undercut. Immediately below this layer, the<br />

Blue Clay formation outcrops almost the entire<br />

length of the coastal strip and forms distinctive<br />

clay slopes with their characteristic talus. The<br />

upper globigerina formation outcrops along a<br />

narrow littoral strip and at a lower elevation<br />

than the Blue Clay.<br />

Geomorphic Processes<br />

Geomorphology is the study of the processes<br />

which shape landscapes and such processes are<br />

starkly revealed at the Majjistral Park. Some<br />

of the more prominent processes are briefly<br />

discussed below:<br />

1. Cliff retreat: The western perimeter of the<br />

Xag˙ra l-Óamra platform ends quite abruptly<br />

and forms steep cliffs. This is partly due to<br />

the dense crystalline nature of the Tal-Pitkal<br />

member, which renders it relatively resistant to<br />

surface erosion, but this type of Upper Coralline<br />

Limestone, is locally weakened by deep joints.<br />

Regolith and incipient soils tend to accumulate<br />

in such joints and the subsequent growth of<br />

vegetation further contributes to widening of<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon


Annalise Falzon<br />

Block sliding along the Majjistral coast. Erosion of the upper<br />

coralline limestone can easily be seen in this photo. Whole sections<br />

of this formation have been detached from the plateau and are now<br />

sliding downslope to the shoreline. This is a typical Rdum shoreline.<br />

the joint. This process is accelerated by the<br />

undercutting of the softer underlying lithologies<br />

(including clay, greensands, and foraminiferal<br />

packstones) which destabilises the cliff face<br />

by reducing sheering stress. Eventually, large<br />

blocks detach and separate from the main rock<br />

body, sliding down towards the shoreline.<br />

2. Mass Movement – Block sliding: This process<br />

is closely linked with the process of cliff retreat<br />

discussed above. Once blocks of upper coralline<br />

limestone are detached, they are transported<br />

downslope by gravity. This process is greatly<br />

facilitated by the fact that the slopes are<br />

largely composed of clay and, when wetted by<br />

occasional rainstorms, these act as lubricated<br />

surfaces. Another factor which is important in<br />

such areas is that steep clay slopes are often<br />

sparsely vegetated and, therefore, there is little<br />

material along the slope to provide friction. Such<br />

slopes can be regarded as a slow, “geomorphic<br />

conveyor belt”, by which large boulders of upper<br />

coralline limestone are carried to the sea and<br />

form impressive boulder screes which extend<br />

right across the shoreline. This type of coastline is<br />

called Rdum in <strong>Malta</strong> and is quite common along<br />

this stretch of the coast; hence Rdum id-Delli and<br />

Rdum Majjiesa. The deposition of such boulders<br />

at the shoreline affords effective protection from<br />

wave action and serves to protect the shoreline<br />

from marine erosion.<br />

3. Cave Collapse and Circular Embayments:<br />

As in all other Karstic environments, Maltese<br />

geomorphology is influenced by solution<br />

features and collapse structures. These occur<br />

when rainwater dissolves the calcium carbonate<br />

contained in limestones and creates voids in the<br />

The deposition of boulders, along clay and globigerina shorelines, affords some protection to such friable coastlines from marine erosion.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 4<br />

Avertano Rolé


Avertano Rolé<br />

Semi-circular indentations of the cliff-line often form through cave development and collapse.<br />

Shoreline cave development is evident on the left side of the photo.<br />

rock body. Caves eventually form by the widening<br />

of joints and the joining of anastamosing<br />

channels formed along bedding planes or<br />

other forms of weakness. Cave formation is<br />

largely dictated by groundwater hydrology and<br />

the presence of a perched aquifer in the area<br />

has contributed significantly to the formation<br />

of solution features. In several instances, the<br />

development of springs above an impermeable<br />

layer of clay accelerates undercutting of the<br />

upper coralline platform and contributes to<br />

cliff retreat. This often results in semi-circular<br />

indentations of the cliff line. At sea level, caves<br />

also form by a combination of factors including<br />

chemical weathering at the mean sea-level water<br />

table, as well as wave action. This produces<br />

semi-circular coves which are very common<br />

along this stretch of the coastline.<br />

4. Sediment Accumulation in Bays: The only<br />

significant sandy bay within the precincts of the<br />

park is Golden Bay (Ramla tal-Mixquqa). The<br />

location of the bay and the nature of its sediment<br />

indicate that the sandy beach originated from a<br />

mixture of terrestrial sediments and re-worked<br />

marine sands. Sandy bays are highly dynamic<br />

geomorphic systems and need to be appreciated<br />

as representing a dynamic equilibrium between<br />

fluvial, marine, and aeolian processes. Any<br />

one of these processes can dominate during<br />

particular episodes; like during a period of<br />

prolonged rainfall when large quantities of<br />

sediment are washed down into the bay. On the<br />

other hand, some factors play a stabilising role in<br />

such systems; dune vegetation assemblages play<br />

an important role in stabilising sand transport.<br />

In fact, Golden Bay possesses a relatively welldeveloped<br />

dune system and this requires careful<br />

management in order to ensure its survival while<br />

meeting the needs of recreational activity.<br />

This short discussion highlights the fact that,<br />

despite its small size, the Majjistral Park exhibits<br />

several examples of geomorphic processes. A<br />

deeper understanding of such processes should<br />

lead to a greater appreciation of the park by<br />

the general public. At the same time, such<br />

understanding should permit the continued<br />

development of more sensitive and sustainable<br />

managerial policies.<br />

50 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


Annalise Falzon<br />

Endnotes<br />

Ramla tal-Mixquqa (Golden Bay) forms the southern extension of the Majjistral Park. Intensive tourist, recreational,<br />

and agricultural development near this bay exerts considerable pressure on the natural environment.<br />

1. The revised geological map of <strong>Malta</strong> (OPM 1993) places<br />

the greensand layer within the G˙ajn Melel member<br />

of the Upper Coralline Limestone formation because<br />

of its patchy distribution and shallow thickness. One<br />

has to appreciate the dilemma faced by geologists<br />

when mapping sequences. Maps are two-dimensional<br />

surfaces while stratigraphic sequences are three-<br />

The widening of a joint (extreme left of the picture) leads to block<br />

detachment from the Upper Coralline limestone platform and<br />

incipient block sliding. The juxtaposition of these blocks often<br />

forms small tunnels, or caves, which afford particularly rare<br />

habitats for wildlife.<br />

dimensional phenomena. It is very difficult to represent<br />

a geostratigraphic layer on a map when it has been<br />

eroded into a cave-like structure and is overtopped by<br />

an Upper Coralline Limestone caprock.<br />

Fragment of a Clypeaster sea urchin fossil. These occur frequently<br />

within the Greensand formation and indicate that the sedimentary<br />

environment of this formation was a shallow sea prone to marine<br />

erosive processes.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park 1<br />

Avertano Rolé Annalise Falzon


Custom Aerial Photos<br />

WindoWs to tHE nortH WEst<br />

When Peter the Great developed his vision<br />

for Russia he turned to the Western model of a<br />

modern state as a source of inspiration, opening<br />

a window to the West, and took his country out<br />

of isolation and into a new era.<br />

<strong>Malta</strong>’s entry into Europe is a similar<br />

experience, yet integration is work in progress,<br />

relying not only on an injection of foreign funds<br />

and harmonisation of European laws, but on a<br />

clear vision for a healthier and more holistic<br />

society in our times.<br />

The launch of Il-Majjistral, <strong>Malta</strong>’s first<br />

Nature and History Park, is a keystone to such<br />

a vision. The whole of the park is far greater<br />

than the sum of its parts, because it constitutes<br />

a breakthrough in the coastal management of<br />

our islands.<br />

Following in the wake of earlier projects<br />

run by NGO’s, like the wetlands at G˙adira by<br />

Birdlife, G˙ajn Tuffie˙a by Gaia, Wied G˙ollieqa<br />

by Nature Trust and Torri Mamo by Din L-Art<br />

Another Majjistral aerial view.<br />

Rudolf Ragonesi<br />

Óelwa, this Park may well mark a turning point<br />

in the management of our heritage, because of<br />

its implications in the protection of the North<br />

West, as well as its potential to integrate the<br />

policies on environment and tourism.<br />

The North West coastal cliffs are the last<br />

frontier on the mainland, the lungs of the island<br />

that breathe life into so much of its natural<br />

heritage, while at the same time offering an<br />

outstanding landscape that takes your breath<br />

away. They are the future not only for the<br />

quality of life of our citizens, but also for a<br />

tourism industry that is growing ever more<br />

competitive, in a world of travellers who are ever<br />

more demanding and in search of wild beauty,<br />

history and the magnificent sea.<br />

Europe’s natural heritage is embodied in<br />

a network of ecologically valuable sites called<br />

Natura 2000. The coastal cliffs of the North West<br />

form part of this network. The establishment of<br />

the Majjistral Park, which borders G˙ajn Tuffie˙a<br />

to the South and lies close to the Foresta 2000 site<br />

5 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park


and the Red Tower to the North, is a milestone<br />

in the management of the North West, and a<br />

stepping stone to secure the proper management<br />

of the entire Natura 2000 site. It was declared<br />

a national park in September 2007 by a legal<br />

notice that also constituted a management board<br />

composed of a chairman, government personnel<br />

from the Environment Ministry (MRAE), the<br />

Lands Department and MEPA and persons<br />

representing three environmental and cultural<br />

management NGO’s, namely, Din L-Art Óelwa,<br />

The Gaia Foundation and Nature Trust. The<br />

legal notice also called for the establishment<br />

of management agreements for the park. The<br />

official launch took place on the 27 th January,<br />

2008, with the signing of an agreement between<br />

the MRAE and MEPA on the one hand, and the<br />

said NGO’s on the other. The launch included<br />

the initial planting of indigenous trees, the<br />

start of guided walks on Sunday mornings, the<br />

publication of a nature trail brochure and a new<br />

website at www.majjistral.org.<br />

Nature tourism is the fastest growing sector<br />

in the industry worldwide. As people escape for<br />

a few days from the hustle and bustle of city<br />

life, they seek out a place in an idyllic setting<br />

to recharge their batteries and nourish their<br />

souls. The only way forward to a cleaner and<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

greener world is to reconnect humans with<br />

their environment, thus increasing awareness,<br />

appreciation and responsibility. A successful<br />

national park would afford the opportunity to<br />

both nature and humans to flourish, to find<br />

their path once again. <strong>Malta</strong> relies heavily<br />

on its visitors, yet equally on its permanent<br />

inhabitants, who are regular visitors in their<br />

own land, on weekends, or sunny afternoons<br />

throughout the year. Managed well and in an<br />

integrated way, the Park can offer a rich choice<br />

of activities, from walking, horse riding, sub<br />

aqua, surfing, canoeing and bathing on the one<br />

hand to visiting places of historical, cultural and<br />

rural interest on the other, like towers, organic<br />

farms, groves and visitor centres. It is the aim of<br />

the managers to set a record of excellence in the<br />

products and services available in the Park. This<br />

would put il-Majjistral on the Mediterranean<br />

map of places of interest to the visitor. We are<br />

at the first step along an exciting journey that<br />

would take us beyond our North West frontier<br />

to a collective conscious awareness of nature and<br />

tourism being two sides of the same coin. With<br />

the right vision, and investment of resources, the<br />

standard of excellence that could be reached in<br />

the Majjistral Park would have repercussions<br />

well beyond its borders.<br />

Custom Aerial Photos


Annalise Falzon<br />

Manikata today<br />

Manikata and its rUral asPECts<br />

Mario Cardona<br />

Management Committee, Koperattiva Rurali Manikata<br />

Manikata is home to about 500 inhabitants,<br />

many of whom are full-time or part-time<br />

farmers whereas newcomers include people<br />

from different parts of the Maltese islands who<br />

have come to live here in search of serenity<br />

and beautiful surroundings. Cultivated fields<br />

are found in the surrounding areas known as<br />

il-Ìnien ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a (G˙ajn Tuffie˙a<br />

Gardens), il-Wil©a ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a (G˙ajn<br />

Tuffie˙a meadow), il-MiΩieb (woodland) and ix-<br />

Xag˙ra l-Óamra (the red garrigue). Every last<br />

Sunday in August the parish celebrates the feast<br />

of St.Joseph and on the eve the local community<br />

celebrates Lejla Sajfija g˙aΩ-Ûiffa, a Summer<br />

Breeze Night, where the villagers put their best<br />

talents and products on show, including songs,<br />

drama, paintings, hand crafts, vegetables, fruits,<br />

honey, wine, olive oil...<br />

Koperattiva Rurali Manikata (KRM) Ltd<br />

In July 2005 a number of local farmers and<br />

residents set up the Kumitat g˙all-Óarsien Rurali<br />

Tombs abound in the Manikata area – this one was reused as a<br />

wartime shelter.<br />

ta’ G˙ajn Tuffie˙a (Committee for the Safeguard<br />

of Rural Life in G˙ajn Tuffie˙a) with the aim of<br />

safeguarding the environment of Manikata and<br />

G˙ajn Tuffie˙a from ruin resulting from various<br />

so-called development projects. On the 24th of<br />

August 2007 the committee was dissolved and<br />

the same members set up the Koperattiva Rurali<br />

Manikata (KRM) Ltd. with the aim of operating<br />

a community project that would enable the<br />

general public to appreciate the natural beauty<br />

Ancient tombs contrast with modern buildings. Learning about the rural way of life.<br />

5 IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon


Mario Cardona<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Locally produced marrows with flower.<br />

of the surroundings as well as agricultural life<br />

in Manikata. In March 2008 the Ministry for<br />

Rural Affairs and the Environment signed a<br />

management agreement with Koperattiva Rurali<br />

Manikata whereby KRM Ltd. will gradually<br />

restore the place called Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam.<br />

Reddish fertile soil.<br />

IL-MAJJISTRAL Nature and History Park<br />

A beautiful large famhouse at Ir-Razzett tal-Qasam.<br />

This will eventually be turned into a services<br />

centre for the members of the cooperative as<br />

well as for those who visit our fields, including<br />

students, families and tourists.<br />

Note: For more info please visit our website: www.manikatafarmers.com<br />

Agricultural land.<br />

Annalise Falzon<br />

Annalise Falzon


Copyright ©: Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>) 2008<br />

Front Cover photo: Custom Aerial Photo<br />

Back Cover photos: Annalise Falzon, Custom Aerial Photo, Arnold Sciberras and Joe Sultana<br />

Design & Layout: Kevin Azzopardi (Wise Owl <strong>Publications</strong>, <strong>Malta</strong>) in collaboration with Annalise Falzon - Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>)<br />

Printing: Gutenberg, <strong>Malta</strong><br />

Nature Trust (<strong>Malta</strong>)<br />

P.O. Box 9, Valletta CMR 01, <strong>Malta</strong> • Tel/Fax: 00356 21313150<br />

Email: info@naturetrustmalta.org • Website: www.naturetrustmalta.org

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