Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace - Dress and Textile ...
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace - Dress and Textile ...
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace - Dress and Textile ...
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<strong>Identifying</strong> <strong>H<strong>and</strong>made</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Machine</strong> <strong>Lace</strong><br />
Characteristics of machine-made lace<br />
Name &/or<br />
machine<br />
date span Ground pattern outline(when<br />
Stocking frame 1760s-1780s transferred loops rows of horizontal<br />
Single pressed<br />
point net made on<br />
stocking frame;<br />
largely superceded<br />
by double pressed,<br />
continued in France<br />
Double pressed<br />
point net; finished<br />
in Britain in 1810s,<br />
continued in<br />
France; made on<br />
stocking frame<br />
Bobbinet made on<br />
Heathcoat‟s<br />
bobbinet machine<br />
Leavers, made on<br />
adaptation of<br />
Heathcoat‟s<br />
machine; Jacquard<br />
patterning device<br />
adapted to it in<br />
1830s<br />
Pusher, also an<br />
adaptation of<br />
Heathcoat‟s<br />
machine<br />
1770s- mid<br />
19 th C<br />
1786 –<br />
1840s<br />
1809 to<br />
present<br />
1813 to<br />
present;<br />
patterned<br />
lace from<br />
1830s on<br />
1813 to<br />
e.20 th C<br />
(GB); to<br />
present (?)<br />
in France<br />
hexagonal, made<br />
by transferring<br />
loops; relies on<br />
dressing to keep<br />
its appearance<br />
hexagonal, made<br />
by transferring<br />
loops; relies on<br />
dressing to keep<br />
its appearance<br />
hexagonal ground<br />
made by threads<br />
transferring from<br />
side to side, very<br />
like Lille or Bucks<br />
grounds<br />
all sorts; very<br />
versatile; most<br />
h<strong>and</strong> made<br />
grounds have<br />
been copied<br />
hexagonal;<br />
ground made by<br />
threads<br />
transferring from<br />
side to side<br />
21<br />
loops<br />
used)<br />
h<strong>and</strong> run<br />
h<strong>and</strong> embroidered h<strong>and</strong> run<br />
h<strong>and</strong> embroidered h<strong>and</strong> run<br />
h<strong>and</strong> embroidery<br />
(needle-running<br />
or tambouring),<br />
machine<br />
embroidery (from<br />
1828), applique<br />
ribbed (bobbin<br />
fining)<br />
imitation of<br />
clothwork<br />
(independent<br />
beam)<br />
imitation half<br />
stitch (as in<br />
Chantilly);<br />
threads pushed up<br />
together<br />
h<strong>and</strong> run; or<br />
tamboured;<br />
machine<br />
embroidery<br />
(from 1828)<br />
h<strong>and</strong> run (to<br />
1850s)<br />
made with the<br />
ground <strong>and</strong><br />
pattern 1841<br />
onwards<br />
h<strong>and</strong> run (to<br />
1860s); by<br />
Cornelly<br />
machine from<br />
1860s
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