Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace - Dress and Textile ...

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Warp frame 1773 Raschel, development of warp frame onwards 1859 to present, chiefly from 1950s for lace Barmen 1890s to Machine embroidered: 1 & 2 often referred to as chemical or burnt out: 1.hand- embroidering machine present 2.Schiffli 1860s to 3.Bonnaz or Cornelly hexagonal, as chains hexagonal, as chains twisted, very good imitation of hand, especially in narrow borders 1828 – 1920s machine bobbinet present 1860s to present or dissolvable fabric (after 1883) machine bobbinet or dissolvable fabric (after 1883) 22 (imitation of blonde/Spanish) vertical chains of loops in zigzag “inlay” threads trapped between chains hand run to mid 19 th C made with the lace as hand made with lace pattern repeats using only one thread, usually small and each one identical two threads, above and below fabric, forming zigzag lockstitch machine bobbinet close chain stitch in various thicknesses of thread but usually not used rarely used rarely used chain stitch thicker than filling stitch; also used for stitching down muslin onto net
Illus.12 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Characteristic of Machine Lace – Single pressed point net Single press point net with applied embroidery, from an evening dress of c.1827, probably French; the silk net has one loop per vertical side and is very light and fragile; it relies upon its dressing (starch or gum Arabic) to keep its shape. (NCM 1907-190/1 © Nottingham City Museums) 23 Illus. 12a Single press point net (detail) (NCM 1907-190/1 © Nottingham City Museums)
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Page 5 and 6: 23. Simplest warp frame lace struct
Page 9 and 10: patterned lace. Leavers lace was No
Page 11 and 12: 5. Decide on country of origin. Thi
Page 13 and 14: Single Thread cont‟d Multi thread
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Page 39: Machine-made Lace Allen, W.G John H

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