Bondi Stories, vol.1.

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Bondi Stories nice enough. If you can surf here at least once a day, the whole pressure of what’s behind you there (points towards the mass of buildings and traffic) goes off you. If you can go out and pick off a good wave, you can live here. SW: But really, how dirty is the water down here? Brad J: I don’t think there’s a guy here who’s never had either ear infection, flu, gastric or something, as a direct result of the water. Steve Corrigan: This may sound insane, but it’s true. A guy, I know, knew a person who had tinea on his feet. He swam in the pool at North Bondi and he ended up having to get his feet amputated, they got so badly infected. Brad J: When it’s blowing south-east here, you get a film or smell off the top of the water, it gets in your eyes, and makes them sting and water, and when you take a deep breath, your chest seems to cloud. Brad M: On a good rainy day, it looks like a glassed-off North Coast wave, except it’s not river pollution, it’s sh.. . Steve: That’s why sharks don’t come here. They’re afraid they’ll die. Brad J: But, sometimes it’s not so bad. Victor: Yeah, I remember once, you could even see the bottom. Bruce Channon: (I laugh, thinking it was a joke, but then realise everyone else took it seriously). SW: Getting back to actual wave riding, there are basically two schools of surfing; the style and positioning school, and the lip-rigging full-on manoeuvre school. Which do you guys lean towards? Brad M: We’ve got both styles here. Victor: Yeah, like, we have Steve Corro and Ronny, who are radical and on the other side, we’ve got Colin Sutherland and Brad who are smooth. Brad M: And Gluefoot (Steve Gibson) is a positioning surfer. SW: Do you guys have proper contests between yourselves or other clubs? Victor: No. We’ve only had one with Cronulla. SW: But you’re not going to have a contest between yourselves? 32
33 Panache Brad M: No. Victor: Well, some people in the club would like to. But, every time it comes up at a meeting, there’s been mixed feelings. I, myself, don’t think the kids need it, because they’re in other contests so often, and they’re all so contestorientated. Ron Ford: We virtually have a contest every time we go out in the surf. (a jumble of voices confirm that they are continually pushing each other to improve all the time.) Victor: What we’ve also discussed is having club expression sessions, where we all pile into cars, go down the coast somewhere, get into a good surf, take it in turns — three in the water at a time and film it. Then, when we come back, we can all look at it carefully and figure it out. Anybody else like to answer some questions? My throat’s getting sore. SW: What are your thoughts on professional surfing? Victor: Money corrupts. That’s been proven right through history. However, for people who like to surf, and to support surfing as a whole, money’s probably needed. For example, surfboard design couldn’t have progressed to the extent it has, if you didn’t have shops paying professional surfers. For design progression, and even in what kids are going to do on a wave, you really need that financial support. Brad M: I think the guys over here are on a whole different circuit to North-side guys, in that here, we’re surrounded by an everyday working element, and the guys that do surf are a tight group. I think a lot of us consider it now as a sport. It’s a part of our lives, but it’s a sport thing, an athletic thing, too, because you have to keep healthy and fit to go in contests. When I learnt to shape, manufacturers were prepared to teach you. But, that doesn’t happen anymore. If kids go in contests, they might be able to get a chance in the surfing industry that way. SW: What about the Bondi surfing crowds? (The answer is a large spontaneous moan). Victor: The biggest crowd is right in this room (much laughing).
Page 3 and 4: BONDI STORIES Volume One 2013 bondi
Page 5: CONTENTS Editorial … Dan Webber .
Page 9 and 10: I Acknowledgements would like to th
Page 11 and 12: Bondi Royalty The sand and the sea,
Page 13 and 14: W Fuck off, trog! hen I was 12 and
Page 15 and 16: A The Lost Valley ll beaches have a
Page 17: 7 The Lost Valley The Office … fu
Page 20 and 21: Bondi Stories Clockwise: Barry Ross
Page 22 and 23: Bondi Stories 12
Page 24 and 25: Bondi Stories Jack “Bluey” Maye
Page 26 and 27: Bondi Stories continued through to
Page 28 and 29: Bondi Stories misunderstanding. The
Page 30 and 31: Bondi Stories Californian surfboard
Page 32 and 33: Bondi Stories influences from the W
Page 35 and 36: The Beach Inspector D uring the 196
Page 37 and 38: W The Hill Crew e evolved from the
Page 39 and 40: A Panache Surfing World 1975 Bruc
Page 41: 31 Panache it doesn’t develop int
Page 45 and 46: 35 Panache always gone back down ag
Page 47 and 48: 37 Panache shook up. But, if I can
Page 49 and 50: 39 Panache Victor: We were really f
Page 51 and 52: 41 Panache will be as good as they
Page 53 and 54: D Salty ad was one of the original
Page 55 and 56: Bondi’s first larrikin This artic
Page 57 and 58: 47 Bondi’s first larrikin merchan
Page 59 and 60: 49 Bondi’s first larrikin and a l
Page 61 and 62: 51 Bondi’s first larrikin No wond
Page 63 and 64: 53 Bondi’s first larrikin October
Page 65 and 66: 55 Bondi’s first larrikin Journal

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