Bondi Stories, vol.1.

35
Panache
always gone back down again. We’re hoping to keep it up this
time.
Brad M: It always goes back to the same thing. Some parents
say to their kids that you’ve surfed in your younger days, but
now you’ve grown up, you’d better start falling into your
career for the future, and that’s what I think is one of the
problems that causes these groups to part.
Victor: Well, it’s the Australian way of life. You do so many
things until you’re 15, so many things until you’re 18, different
things until you’re 21, then after that you settle down, get
married, and give up everything, except drinking (everyone
laughs).
Kurt: Join the Icebergs (room erupts into laughing).
Brad M: But, none of that matters, if you keep to your main
track.
Victor: The attitude of surfers, in general, has changed. I
know the attitude of kids here is not that surfing’s something
you give up when you turn 21. I don’t think you get too old to
surf at 30 or 40. You should just get more experienced. If you
become inflexible, it’s because of your diet and exercise
problems.
Brad M: I think the Senior Mens one day is going to be it.
Victor: If we take Hawaii as an example, it will for sure. Most
of the Hawaiians that I saw getting into sizeable waves were
the men, not the kids.
Brad M: People over there probably hang in there longer
because of the money thing. If you’re good, you get paid,
whereas here, you’ve got to battle.
Victor: But, this professionalism will happen here.
Brad M: But, it’ll only be for a select few.
Victor: Well, that’s professionalism all over. For example,
there must be millions of golfers in the world, but there’s
only, say, 140, who make top money from it. So, because the
surfing population isn’t nearly that many, you’ve got to expect
the number at the top to be a lot less also. It’s up to ourselves,
though, how we present, or deliver, the sport, or art, or