02.04.2013 Views

Esquire - Megan Lau

Esquire - Megan Lau

Esquire - Megan Lau

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

<strong>Esquire</strong><br />

Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great<br />

American Magazine (For Men)<br />

<strong>Megan</strong> <strong>Lau</strong>


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

On Fridays, the staff of <strong>Esquire</strong> magazine, stationed on the fourth floor of 488 Madison Avenue,<br />

gathered in Harold Hayes’s office. The men and women, dressed in suits and shift dresses,<br />

unbuttoned over drinks at the week’s end. With the smell of cigarettes and rye on their lips, the<br />

magazine’s staffers—and any contributors that happened to be in the building—threw darts at pages<br />

of the New York Times Hayes had pinned up on one end of the office. The game was to impress<br />

Hayes, <strong>Esquire</strong>’s editor, with a pitch based on where the dart landed, worthy of being published in<br />

the magazine. Friday afternoons were editorial meetings disguised as cocktail parties.<br />

In the end no one was much competition for Hayes in the game of darts. He consistently<br />

came up with the best stories for the magazine since he saw the world through the lens of <strong>Esquire</strong>.<br />

From December 1963 to April 1973, Harold Hayes’s <strong>Esquire</strong> left an indelible mark in the history<br />

of American magazines. <strong>Esquire</strong> tapped into the sense of skepticism, disbelief, and disenchantment<br />

that came to define the Sixties in America. In writing and art, it was a pioneer. Of course, there were<br />

also the iconic covers designed by George Lois that stirred millions of conversations—both<br />

reproachful and laudatory—and thrust issues of <strong>Esquire</strong> off the newsstands into reader’s hands. The<br />

Hayes years at <strong>Esquire</strong> illustrate how great magazines emerge from an alchemic mixture of luck,<br />

inventive artists, interesting times, risk-taking, and an exacting editorial vision. A great magazine is<br />

first and foremost the product of the editor behind it and they way that he or she leads the editors,<br />

artists, and writers under the masthead.<br />

Under Hayes, <strong>Esquire</strong> was almost invariably one of the bestselling magazines on American<br />

newsstands and one of the leading magazines in the world. The Sunday Times of London named<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong> one of the world’s great magazines (DiGiacomo). Time called the men’s magazine “bold and<br />

occasionally brilliant.” (Polsgrove). It won National Magazine Awards for editorial content and<br />

visual excellence. At its best, the magazine invaded national conversations about culture, celebrity,<br />

gender, politics, and war. <strong>Esquire</strong> excelled at articulating the voice of youth witnessing titanic<br />

cultural, social, and political change.<br />

2


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

The first issue of <strong>Esquire</strong> was published on October 15, 1933 in the middle of the Great<br />

Depression, just as President Roosevelt was launching the New Deal. David Smart and William H.<br />

Weintraub, Chicago-based ad men who also created the Gentlemen’s Quarterly (GQ), envisioned an<br />

oversized magazine with the philosophy that “when one grew up one didn’t abdicate one’s animal<br />

spirits, one didn’t stop savouring life in all of its gusto and diversity” (Douglas, 176). They hired<br />

the young editor Arnold Gingrich, just twenty-eight years old at the time, to shape the magazine for<br />

the everyday man. Gingrich called the magazine <strong>Esquire</strong> and filled it with an ingenious mix of girls,<br />

style, cartoons, fishing, fiction, and journalism for intelligent men with “curiosity, imagination, and<br />

good taste” (Ibid.) The premiere issue included bylines for Dashiell Hammett and Ernest<br />

Hemingway, who became a devoted contributor to the magazine in its first five years.<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong> was a massive success right out of the gates. The magazine’s initial press run sold<br />

out within hours. Eventually 105,000 copies of that issue were sold. The success was all the more<br />

remarkable because the magazine was priced at fifty cents—five times the going rate for magazines in<br />

the 1930s. <strong>Esquire</strong> was designed to be a quarterly but demand for the magazine was so great that the<br />

next issue was published in January of 1934. In spite of the tough economy, Gingrich’s genius<br />

editorial formula gained many readers. Hemingway’s cachet drew other fine authors—and<br />

advertisers—into the fold. <strong>Esquire</strong> was a playground for writers to experiment freely. Gingrich also<br />

published material that other magazines rejected for being too offbeat or controversial.<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong> became the most widely discussed magazine in America (Ibid, 198). By 1937, the<br />

magazine’s total circulation was 675,000 (Ibid). <strong>Esquire</strong> established a new reading public of men<br />

engaged in intellectual, recreational, and romantic pursuits. The New Deal had “given leisure a new<br />

economic significance” and the Henry Ford five-day week gave men “more time to think of living as<br />

an art, as well as a business” (Gingrich, 102-103). <strong>Esquire</strong>’s first ten years were halcyon days.<br />

Despite the magazine’s success, exhaustion and personal differences led Arnold Gingrich to<br />

leave the magazine in the mid-1940s, while the magazine was making profits of $1.5 million.<br />

3


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

In 1952, Smart wooed Gingrich back to <strong>Esquire</strong>. The offices had moved to New York 1 and<br />

Gingrich was made publisher. In Gingrich’s absence, the magazine had floundered due to lack of<br />

editorial vision and poor management. Gingrich’s had writers left and the magazine was stuck with a<br />

reputation for being a “girlie magazine” filled with titillating half-nudes and pin-ups. <strong>Esquire</strong> lost its<br />

place among the smart magazines Vanity Fair, the New Yorker, Life, and Smart Set. Gingrich’s<br />

challenge was to restore magazine so that it could stand beside its serious, smart peers, offer<br />

captivating visuals like pictorial weeklies such as Look, and compete with Sports Illustrated, Playboy,<br />

and “macho-man” 2 magazines such as Stag and Saga for the elusive male readership.<br />

He worked to acquire a new stable of writers to raise the literary profiles of the magazine and<br />

create a tone for the publication that was more serious, substantial, and political. The magazine he<br />

formed, Gingrich knew, would be a place for “upcoming generations of readers to rally to it and<br />

make it feel it was their own” (Ibid). By then another war had passed and American values and<br />

perspectives were changing. Though chaos and revolutions were still to come, the Sixties and <strong>Esquire</strong><br />

would belong to another generation. Gingrich knew he needed younger editors to eventually take his<br />

place since “people like a magazine that sees things the way they see them, and says things the way<br />

they feel them, and once they find it they’ll keep coming back to it” (Gingrich, 210).<br />

In 1957, Gingrich hired a stable of six young and thirsty associate editors—he called them<br />

“young Turks” and presented a recently vacated corner office as bait. Among the young Turks were<br />

Hayes and Clay Felker. Felker was a journalist, editor and man-about-town. He knew writers and<br />

brought unusual ideas to the table. Felker was behind one of the first examples of New<br />

Journalism—a genre of journalism using literary techniques pioneered in the 1960s: Norman<br />

1 Meanwhile, Hugh Hefner, a promotional writer and failed cartoonist for <strong>Esquire</strong> stayed in Chicago and started his own<br />

magazine: Stag Party—which was renamed Playboy (<strong>Esquire</strong>, 2005).<br />

2 In the sixties, the second wave of Feminism destabilized men’s position in society. In response to changing concepts of<br />

gender, the “cult of masculinity” emerged. Publications such as Male, Climax, and True responded to this phenomenon<br />

(Waller-Zuckerman, 292-293).<br />

4


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

Mailer’s “Superman Comes to the Supermarket.” (DiGiacomo). Hayes, on the other hand, was a less<br />

cosmopolitan editor who had been introduced to Gingrich through a mutual acquaintance. Gingrich<br />

initially sent him to work at Picture Week, where Hayes held the job for two years but was eventually<br />

fired for producing a feature that foreshadowed the audacious attitude that <strong>Esquire</strong> would be known<br />

for. As soon as he got to work at <strong>Esquire</strong>, Hayes championed the brash and irreverent personality<br />

that would set the magazine apart from others. Hayes brought in William F. Buckley Jr. to write for<br />

the magazine and he was the first magazine editor to hire Diane Arbus, one of the great American<br />

photographers, after her partnership with her husband, Allan Arbus, had dissolved.<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>’s evolution came out of the Hayes and Felker’s competing editorial visions. Gingrich<br />

held editorial meetings with the young Turks on Friday afternoons, which became “a schedule of<br />

cockfights… under the cover of an editorial staff meeting” (Gingrich, 205). 3 By example, Gingrich<br />

taught his protégé Hayes how to turn competition into a stronger content. Gingrich’s methods were<br />

questionable but the shouting matches resulted in smart writing, strong reporting, and provocative<br />

visuals. Also because of the young Turks, <strong>Esquire</strong> led the way in running ads throughout a<br />

magazine, instead of sandwiching editorial content between front and back advertising sections. The<br />

changes in format and editorial content brought down the median age of <strong>Esquire</strong>’s readership steadily<br />

just as advertisers were realizing the importance of the youth market.<br />

The four-and-a-half year battle between Felker and Hayes ended in 1961 when Gingrich<br />

named Hayes managing editor. In his time at <strong>Esquire</strong>, Felker had shown unquestionable promise<br />

and cultivated an impressive roster of writers. Embittered, he left the magazine to consult for the<br />

New York Herald Tribune Sunday magazine, which Felker transformed into New York, a magazine<br />

that set an example for every city magazine to follow.<br />

3 Gingrich said his choice of Fridays “gave us until Monday to wash down the blood on the walls” (Gingrich, 205).<br />

5


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

To speak of <strong>Esquire</strong>’s golden years are to refer to Gingrich’s first stint as editor and Hayes’s<br />

legendary decade at the helm. When Hayes was promoted, the magazine was on the verge of<br />

bankruptcy. Magazines were losing advertising dollars, costs were soaring, and competition from<br />

television and other magazines was escalating. 4 Nonetheless, during Hayes’s tenure as editor, the<br />

magazine’s circulation reached an all-time high of two million (Lois). He engineered a magazine that<br />

was being talked about, acclaimed, criticized, and imitated. <strong>Esquire</strong> became more than its tagline—<br />

“The Magazine For Men”—it became required reading material for the culturally active, politically<br />

aware, and intellectually inquisitive; a quarter of its readership was women (Polsgrove, 159).<br />

The <strong>Esquire</strong> of the Sixties is almost unrecognizable as a magazine by today’s standards. It<br />

was an oversized tome (12 5/8 x 9 7/8 inches) that was sold for just sixty cents to a dollar. Special<br />

issues were plump with ads, but also with content. It looked like a book printed on thin coated<br />

paper and in other ways it was like a book: the art and writing inside gave the publication a kind of<br />

permanence. Magazines are often considered ephemera, but so much of <strong>Esquire</strong> from that decade<br />

holds up and is remembered with veneration. Hayes was behind each of the lasting legacies from<br />

that decade in <strong>Esquire</strong>’s history: the covers, the Dubious Achievement Awards, the Vietnam War<br />

exposés, the first-person tell-alls from people in the news.<br />

The writers that contributed to Hayes’s magazine are some of the literary greats of the latter<br />

half of the century: Carver, Pynchon, Sontag, Wolfe, Ginsberg, Dinesen, and Capote, just to name a<br />

handful (Baron). Hayes was an exacting editor who would wrestle with writers. <strong>Esquire</strong> killed half<br />

the articles it assigned (Polsgrove, 137-138). However, like Gingrich, Hayes gave his writers<br />

tremendous freedom. Said Tom Wolfe, “There was so much excitement about experimenting in<br />

nonfiction, it made people want to extend themselves for Harold” (Waller-Zuckerman, 288). Gay<br />

Talese, who came from a journalistic background at the New York Times, called the autonomy he had<br />

4 In 1961, twenty-four magazines were launched or announced (Waller-Zuckerman, 247)<br />

6


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

at <strong>Esquire</strong> a “narcotic” (DiGiacomo). Some of the pieces Hayes published would drag on—he was<br />

not one to heavily edit pieces; he trusted his writers. Hayes followed Gingrich’s footsteps and<br />

stepped back where he lacked knowledge; in those spaces, he would let his editors and writers to take<br />

the lead. Accordingly, Hayes won the loyalty of his writers easily. He made writers into public<br />

figures, cultural heroes, and gave them a large platform to speak from. Numerous contributors have<br />

remarked that Hayes’s relationships with his writers were fraught but meaningful, fruitful, and very<br />

intense (Ibid). Consequently, <strong>Esquire</strong> produced several landmark pieces of long-form journalism;<br />

four of “The 7 Greatest Stories in the History of <strong>Esquire</strong> Magazine,” according to <strong>Esquire</strong>, were<br />

published when Hayes was editor (<strong>Esquire</strong>, 2008). One of these was Talese’s profile of Frank<br />

Sinatra. At the time, Sinatra had fallen from public’s favour and was struggling to make a comeback.<br />

Talese’s unexpected take on the entertainer embodied so many of the themes of the Sixties: old ways<br />

struggling to find a place in the new world, the death of the American dream, and the emptiness of<br />

fame (Talese in Hayes, 280-310).<br />

Between 1963 and 1973, <strong>Esquire</strong> witnessed “America’s collective confusion” (Hayes, xxiiii)<br />

and responded with a magazine that grew increasingly darker as the years went by. As Hayes saw it,<br />

the cold-war politics and suburban life of the previous decade gave rise to explosive tensions. In the<br />

very first issue of the decade, Norman Mailer presciently noted in the magazine that country would<br />

erupt in chaos (Polsgrove, 47). Mailer was right. The Sixties witnessed the Vietnam War, the civil<br />

rights movement, the student movement for democracy, feminism’s Second Wave, and most<br />

tragically, the assassinations of President Kennedy, Senator Robert Kennedy, and Dr. Martin Luther<br />

King, Jr. Yet the world changed in smaller ways, too. In those years, <strong>Esquire</strong> writers responded to the<br />

transgressions of boundaries in fashion, literature, politics, and gender. Hayes saw that his duty as<br />

editor was to address and document the times. Said Hayes:<br />

[An editor] sets out to do this within fairly well defined commercial limitations, all<br />

conditions for the play of his imagination; but this is why he does what he does and, most<br />

often, the reason he behaves the way he does. … He is not placed on earth to serve selflessly<br />

7


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

the artistic pretensions of his writers: he is here to get in touch with the reader (Polsgrove,<br />

42).<br />

The banality of the Fifties inspired Hayes to show “alternative possibilities to the monolithic view”<br />

(Hayes, xviii). It declared itself an enemy of sobriety and, sometimes, taste. <strong>Esquire</strong> was not<br />

characterized by a certain political position or even tone. <strong>Esquire</strong> was defined by a cacophony of<br />

voices—all bold, contradictory, provocative, creative, and always changing. All perspectives were<br />

invited as long as the take could not be found in other magazines. When presented with an<br />

unsatisfactory but promising idea for a story, Hayes would hold his hand in front of his face and<br />

rotate it to show that he wanted to editor to take a different angle. Hayes’s idea of a good <strong>Esquire</strong><br />

article often involved unorthodox pairings of writer and subject.<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong> spoke directly to the reader like a talkative, informed, opinionated, and witty<br />

companion. It was self-reflexive and it spoke frankly. In the “Publisher’s Page” of August 1964,<br />

Gingrich wrote:<br />

Looking through the dummy of this issue… we find our own reaction to its various features<br />

ranging all the way from near ecstasy to near nausea, with intermediate stages of both acute<br />

boredom and active dislike. If it were our sixty cents, we’d feel we’d have our money’s<br />

worth and more. (<strong>Esquire</strong>, 1964)<br />

Satire was the magazine’s default vernacular but “satire as a mode, locked in a symbiotic<br />

relationship with culture, required constant adjustments as the culture underwent change”<br />

(Polsgrove, 197). Always, even in the most tragic of times in America, Hayes delivered a magazine<br />

that was funny and hip. He wanted “every column inch” of <strong>Esquire</strong> to reflect that tone. And it did.<br />

In the Thirty-Fifth Anniversary issue of the magazine, published in October 1968, <strong>Esquire</strong> reflected<br />

on the decade so far, which had seen three monumentally tragic assassinations. The cover, designed<br />

by George Lois, was a “dreamlike epitaph on the murder of American goodness” (Lois, 62). The<br />

reverential cover showed President Kennedy, Senator Kennedy, and Dr. King watching over<br />

Arlington National Cemetery. Hayes chose feature articles that presented his readers a vision of<br />

America that was without any cause for celebration or pride. The Sixties were marred by death and<br />

8


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

extraordinary violence, and the continuing unrest promised more. And yet, there was room for a<br />

joke. Tom Wolfe said that Hayes regarded the social and political turbulence with amusement and<br />

he was having a ball with the material (DiGiacomo). They were, in Hayes’s words, “Smiling<br />

Through the Apocalypse.” 5 On page 188 of the anniversary issue, just past halfway through the<br />

magazine, Hayes placed a message from the staff of <strong>Esquire</strong>:<br />

At this very point (page 188) it strikes us as editors of probably the most significant issue<br />

of any American magazine in this century that you, as readers, are going to be depressed as<br />

hell. In this issue we have already laid bare the bleakness of four generations, revised the<br />

Constitution, changed the Bill of Rights, decided that Burton, Taylor and psychoanalysis<br />

must go, that dirty books can stay; and we have learned that money will disappear, that the<br />

young will destroy us all, and so forth.<br />

It would have been nice if we could have made this page the turning point in the issue—<br />

everything after it cheerful and gay. But we find that impossible. These are desperate times,<br />

and there is more misery to cover. Before we can move on, though, we would like to do<br />

everything we can to make at least one of your happy. And we propose to do it here and now<br />

on this page. What we have done is this: we have looked around in our offices and gathered<br />

together a hamper of unusual gifts, and we will bestow it on one of you. We believe this is<br />

one of the last great personal gestures in a world becoming less personal every day. There is<br />

no contest; the least deserving of you can win. (<strong>Esquire</strong>, 1968, p. 188)<br />

Among the thirteen prizes included in the “happiness sweepstake” hamper were “Two plastic<br />

daffodils,” “Thermofax copies of original letters, complaining of editorial malfeasance, from Norman<br />

Mailer, Philip Roth, Stanley Elkin, John Updike, Bruce Jay Friedman and Bernard Malamud,” and<br />

“One letter in French, from somebody in General de Gaulle’s office that nobody here could<br />

understand” (Ibid). Although the issue was somber in tone, Hayes maintained the <strong>Esquire</strong> voice<br />

throughout with small touches like such as this. It’s an editorial philosophy that is honoured by the<br />

editorial staff of the magazine today: no page or section is a throwaway. Whereas other magazines<br />

might treat the letters to the editor section with indifference, <strong>Esquire</strong> fills theirs with witty responses,<br />

infographics, and clever quips (Rothstein).<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>’s covers exemplified its irreverent tone. Hayes recognized that the cover, the reader’s<br />

first encounter with the magazine, would be the most salient device to electrify the magazine’s image.<br />

5 Smiling Through the Apocalypse is the name of <strong>Esquire</strong>’s anthology of writing from the Sixties, edited by Hayes<br />

9


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

As soon as Hayes was made managing editor, he persuaded George Lois to create covers for <strong>Esquire</strong><br />

on a monthly basis. Lois had been the art director of the famous Doyle Dane Bernbach advertising<br />

agency and was now, a much sought-after ad man at his own firm, Papert, Koenig, Lois. Hayes<br />

promised Lois total creative license without any interference from the advertising department. His<br />

first cover was a view of an empty boxing arena with a model dressed as the reigning champion<br />

Floyd Patterson in the ring, flat on the ground. Lois was calling the fight between Patterson and his<br />

challenger Sonny Liston months before it happened. The magazine hit newsstands two weeks before<br />

the fight. Luckily, Lois was right and the cover was a sensation. Lois went on to create ninety-two<br />

covers for <strong>Esquire</strong>.<br />

Lois was impenitent about the statements he made on <strong>Esquire</strong>’s covers. Using the language<br />

of advertising, Lois let typography or a provocative image dominate the page. There were no sell<br />

lines to clutter the covers, just one headline. The September 1966 cover paired a close-up shot of a<br />

Columbia University football player applying lipstick with the headline “How our red blooded<br />

campus heroes are beating the draft.” For Lois’s most controversial cover, he commissioned a<br />

photograph of a beaming Lt. William Calley surrounded by four Asian children. Calley was<br />

accused of ordering the MyLai massacres.<br />

Some <strong>Esquire</strong> covers chased away subscribers and advertising sales 6 but they also won the<br />

magazine attention, as well as awards. Today the covers are celebrated icons of American graphic<br />

design, and part of the Museum of Modern Art’s permanent collection. Moreover, most of Lois’s<br />

covers made the issues into commercial successes. Lois and Hayes’s partnership pulled the magazine<br />

out the red and <strong>Esquire</strong> was making $10.5 million in ad revenues by 1966. The covers were<br />

revolutionary images that forced America to collectively confront the issues of the day. Viewed<br />

together, they “serve as a visual timeline and a window onto the turbulent events of the 1960s” (The<br />

6 The December 1963 cover featuring Sonny Liston in a Santa hat lost <strong>Esquire</strong> $750,000 in future advertising dollars<br />

10


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

Museum of Modern Art). Often, the cover would contradict the editorial material inside; as a<br />

package, the magazine’s cover and contents offered a pluralistic, nuanced view of the month’s events.<br />

Although Lois showed Hayes how the techniques of advertising could elevate the magazine,<br />

Hayes rejected the idea of the magazine as a medium for advertising. Once he pleaded to the<br />

president of <strong>Esquire</strong> Abe Blinder, “Abe, please don’t turn this magazine into a catalogue. I’ll do<br />

whatever’s necessary to make money” (Polsgrove, 71). Thus, he found creative ways to comply with<br />

the ad department and still make the magazine he wanted to read. Throughout his career at the<br />

magazine, Hayes included the compulsory eight fashion pages, and produced car specials and<br />

service-oriented pieces for Christmas issues. Sometimes the magazine treated these duties with<br />

parody and self-mockery. Perhaps answering a request to include more pinups in the magazine to<br />

broaden the appeal of the magazine, Hayes produced a photo feature called “The Girls of Summer: A<br />

Seasonal Portfolio and Editorial Challenge” (<strong>Esquire</strong>, 1964, n.p.) 7 : a six-page feature of women in<br />

bathing suits. Never overly earnest, the <strong>Esquire</strong> writers applied an introduction:<br />

It is widely understood in publishing circles that A) people like pictures of girls, and B)<br />

that although fortunes have been made with no more complex editorial policy, it is bad<br />

form simply to run pictures of girls without accompanying text. … we present here The<br />

Self-Reflexive Editorial Comment as a guide to readers and publishers everywhere. (Ibid)<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>’s assertive attitude made it a memorable magazine but also led to Hayes’s eventual<br />

exit. At the end of 1968, sales dropped by 200,000. Hayes had tried each issue to top the last, to<br />

do something more shocking. As the mood of the country darkened, however, the magazine’s voice<br />

came across as callous. It was sarcastic and brutal, matching the reality of the Vietnam War. The<br />

magazine’s signature lists, diagrams, illustrated guides, and sardonic quips looked flippant in the<br />

light of the tragedies of the past years. Readers began to distrust the <strong>Esquire</strong>. This led Hayes to<br />

reassess the editorial mix and the magazine’s management to demand more “more service, more<br />

girls, and ‘fewer kooky covers’” (Polsgrove, 97). The magazine had always appealed to liberal readers<br />

7 My research notes and photographs are missing this page number.<br />

11


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

but alienated more right-leaning audiences. Though Hayes managed to rebound briefly—the<br />

magazine even won National Magazine Awards in 1972—his staff and contributors were moving<br />

on, the recession was taking its toll, and tastes were changing. Furthermore, the publishers<br />

downsized the magazine to the conventional letter size and the art did not translate to the smaller<br />

format. The commercial strength of the magazine suffered and Hayes was eventually ousted in 1973.<br />

Lois went with him and the sales of the magazine dropped drastically and immediately. Under new<br />

editors, the content floundered. How could they recreate the combination of talent, current events,<br />

and luck the magazine profited from in the decade past? How could anyone step into Hayes’s shoes<br />

after such a long and successful run?<br />

It is a testament to the grandness of Hayes’s vision that his version of <strong>Esquire</strong> became the<br />

blueprint for the modern magazine. <strong>Esquire</strong>’s cheeky mix of high and low culture was a major<br />

influence on magazines such as Vanity Fair, Talk, the Atlantic, Spy, Saturday Night, and the New<br />

Yorker (from the Tina Brown era and onward). Rolling Stone, which published its first issue in<br />

1967, became known for its use of New Journalism techniques pioneered at <strong>Esquire</strong>. In the end,<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong> was more than a commentary about the events of the Sixties. Its journalists and artists went<br />

behind the curtain and saw the true character of America’s people—its heroes, idols, misfits, and<br />

rebels. Regular contributors Gay Talese and Diane Arbus were known for going backstage and<br />

showing the true and ugly character of their subjects. Their work represents Hayes’s true ambition<br />

for <strong>Esquire</strong>: to offer a document of the times, uninhibited and uncompromised by the limitations of<br />

a mass-market periodical. And Hayes succeeded with playful and unequaled irreverence. Said Vanity<br />

Fair, <strong>Esquire</strong> was “the great American magazine of the 20 th century” (DiGiacomo).<br />

<br />

12


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

P O S T S C R I P T <br />

It is impossible to compare the <strong>Esquire</strong> of today to the way it was. Magazines evolve and media<br />

culture changes. Nonetheless, the outset of the twenty-first century might be remembered as another<br />

notable period in the <strong>Esquire</strong>’s history. The magazine’s offices are now housed on the twenty-first<br />

floor of the Hearst building in New York City. On Eighth Avenue, the office of thirty-odd art and<br />

editorial staff members are perched above Manhattan, guided by the creative vision of David<br />

Granger. Granger, a veteran of GQ, was named Editor in Chief in 1997. Under his leadership, the<br />

magazine has won numerous National Magazine Awards (“<strong>Esquire</strong>,” 2010). Always one to offer<br />

unique creative, Granger has gained the favour of advertisers with his experimental covers, including<br />

the first E-ink magazine cover to commemorate the magazine’s seventy-fifth anniversary, and the<br />

Augmented Reality (AR) issue featuring Robert Downey Jr. sitting on an AR barcode. The covers<br />

have placed the magazine in the public consciousness at a time when press about magazines is always<br />

about diminishing ad sales and dropping circulation figures. While the magazine is thinning,<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong> strives to remain relevant, smart, and funny (Rothstein). Nobody at the magazine wants to<br />

see the <strong>Esquire</strong> “die under their watch” (Ibid). In <strong>Esquire</strong>’s spirit of innovation, the magazine is<br />

forging ahead by publishing their magazine in print and as an iPhone app. The magazine’s forays<br />

into new technology show that Granger, like Gingrich and Hayes, is intent on serving the<br />

magazine’s present readers and cultivating new ones. <strong>Esquire</strong> also continues to make the news with its<br />

writing. Chris Jones’s profile of film critic Roger Ebert in the March 2010 issue has been making<br />

the rounds on blogs (Ryzik), even earning the attention of Oprah Winfrey, who endorsed the article<br />

on her show. For the first time in recent memory, a magazine article has inspired international<br />

discussion.<br />

Since <strong>Esquire</strong>’s triumphs are so closely identified with their editors, I imagine Granger<br />

trying to grasp Hayes’s spirit as he remakes the magazine for the twenty-first century. When Hayes<br />

was feeling out his role as Editor, he tried to understand Harold Ross, the founding editor of the<br />

13


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

New Yorker. After reading a biography of Ross, Hayes wrote, “[I] would like to know what he did in<br />

the heat of things …when he was at his peak, and he had just closed a good issue and had nothing<br />

very good for the next issue, but had to start planning anyway. What did he do?” (Polsgrove, 43).<br />

Granger may have pored over Hayes’s incomplete manuscript for his book Making a Modern<br />

Magazine in the same way. In these transitional and uncertain times that parallel the unrest and<br />

uncertainty of the Sixties, Granger must be asking, “What did Hayes do?”<br />

14


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

BI BL I O G R A P H Y<br />

Baron, H. (1976). Author Index to <strong>Esquire</strong> 1933-1973. Metuchen, New Jersey: The Scarecrow<br />

Press, Inc.<br />

Benwell, B. (2003). Masculinity and Men’s Lifestyle Magazines. Hoboken: Wiley-Blackwell.<br />

DiGiacomo, F. (2007). The <strong>Esquire</strong> Decade. Retrieved 15 February 2010, from<br />

http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2007/01/esquire200701<br />

Douglas, G.H. (1991). The Smart Magazines: 50 Years of Literary Revelry and High Junks at Vanity<br />

Fair, the New Yorker, Life, <strong>Esquire</strong> and the Smart Set. Hamden, Connecticut: Archon Books.<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (1960). <strong>Esquire</strong>, July, 54(1).<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (1963). <strong>Esquire</strong>, December, 60(6).<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (1964). <strong>Esquire</strong>, July, 62(1).<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (1964). <strong>Esquire</strong>, August, 62(2).<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (1968). <strong>Esquire</strong>, October, 70(4).<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (2005). “The <strong>Esquire</strong> Timeline 1932-2003.” <strong>Esquire</strong>.com. Retrieved 15 February 2010,<br />

from http://www.esquire.com/features/70th-anniv/ESQ1003-<br />

OCT_TIMELINE?click=main_sr<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (2008). “The 7 Greatest Stories in the History of <strong>Esquire</strong> Magazine.” Retrieved 5 March<br />

2010, from http://www.esquire.com/features/page-75/greatest-stories?click=main_sr<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (2008a). “The Unabridged <strong>Esquire</strong> Masthead.” <strong>Esquire</strong>.com. Retrieved 11 February 2010,<br />

from http://www.esquire.com/features/unabridged-esquire-masthead-1008<br />

<strong>Esquire</strong>. (2010). <strong>Esquire</strong> Media Kit. Retrieved 22 February 2010, from<br />

http://www.esquiremediakit.com/<br />

15


<strong>Lau</strong> <strong>Esquire</strong>, Harold Hayes, the Sixties, and the Great American Magazine (For Men)<br />

“<strong>Esquire</strong>.” (2010) Wikipedia.org. Retrieved 11 February 2010, from<br />

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/<strong>Esquire</strong>_magazine<br />

Gingrich, A. (1971). Nothing but People: The Early Days at <strong>Esquire</strong>, A Personal History 1928-1958.<br />

New York: Crown Publishers.<br />

Hayes, H. (Ed.). (1969). Smiling through the Apocalypse: <strong>Esquire</strong>’s History of the Sixties. New York:<br />

The McCall Publishing Co.<br />

Lois, G. (1996). Covering the ’60s: George Lois, The <strong>Esquire</strong> Era. New York: The Monacelli Press.<br />

Merrill, H. (1995). Esky: The Early Years at <strong>Esquire</strong>. New Brunswick, New Jersey: Rutgers<br />

University Press.<br />

Museum of Modern Art. (2008). “Covers from <strong>Esquire</strong> magazine designed by renowned art<br />

director and designer George Lois are the focus of MOMA exhibition.” Press Release.<br />

Retrieved 5 March 2010, from<br />

http://press.moma.org/images/press/PRESS_RELEASE_ARCHIVE/LoisRelease.pdf<br />

Rothstein, M. (2010). Interview, 25 February 2010. New York City.<br />

Ryzik, M. (2010). “Portrait of a Film Lover.” Blog entry. The Carpetbagger, NYTimes.com.<br />

Retrieved 28 February 2010, from http://carpetbagger.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/02/17/a-<br />

portrait-of-a-film-lover/?scp=6&sq=ebert&st=cse<br />

Polsgrove, C. (1995). It wasn’t Pretty, Folks, but Didn’t We Have Fun? <strong>Esquire</strong> in the Sixties. New<br />

York: W.W. Norton & Company.<br />

“Saturday Night.” (2010). The Canadian Encyclopedia. Retrieved 1 March 2010, from<br />

http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/index.cfm?PgNm=TCE&Params=A1ARTA0007<br />

167<br />

Waller-Zuckerman, T. (1991). The Magazine in America 1741-1990. New York: Oxford<br />

University Press.<br />

16

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!