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Page 10 Famous Soho Establishments: The French House Number 49 Dean Street has served a variety of purposes throughout its long history (probably built originally in 1681), but it was not to transform itself into a catering establishment until the early nineteenth century. In 1817, no. 49 belonged to P. Metcalf & Co., who were brushmakers and turners. In around 1825, towards the end of the vogue for coffee and chocolate houses throughout London, one John Dinsdale opened St Ann’s Coffee House at no. 49, and it was here that the Albion Lodge of freemasons apparently held their meetings from 1825-26. Soho had several other coffee houses, at least six in both Gerrard Street and Golden Square from 1702-1811: the Greyhound in [Old] Compton Street was one, there was a Robinson’s Coffee House ‘near St Ann’s Church’, and further up Dean Street was Jack’s Coffee House at no. 23. By 1830, the coffee house at 49 Dean Street was listed as the York Minster, a public house, still under the aegis of John Dinsdale. Why the name ‘York Minster’ I haven’t been able to discover, but there were several other York Minsters in Soho and environs: at various times, there were several in Wardour Street. One source suggested that the Intrepid Fox (now nos. 97-99) had originally been called York Minster [sic], before it was named after Whig Charles James Fox. In 1843, one George Osborne had become the name at no. 49, and he was to continue until 1862, when a Mrs Louisa Wright took over. A succession of owner/licensees then are listed: Henry Smith from 1877- 83; Francis Smith until 1885; George Gange in 1885; Samuel David Thompson until 1888 (and a Jules Villeneuve was running a restaurant at no. 48); a brace of Tubbs until 1889; and then Christian Schmitt took over in 1890. Mr Schmitt, a German, is listed as running the York Minster until 1915, when his wife/widow, Mrs Bertha M. Schmitt took over. In 1916, the name became more familiar to Soho lovers, that of Victor Berlemont. Victor and his wife, Victori- enne, had come from Belgium in 1900, and he is said to have worked for the great chef Escoffier (who had left the Savoy by then, under a cloud), and thereafter for several restaurants in Soho, including the Restaurant European. This was at no. 48 Dean Street, next door to the wine bar run by the Schmitts, still listed as York Minster, although apparently known by its proprietor’s name or nationality, or as the Wine House. The postal records do not list Victor’s name until 1916, but his licence was granted in 1915 (see below/above), and indeed Victor and Victorienne must already have been ensconced, as our beloved Gaston was born in April 1914, upstairs at no. 49. (And, interestingly, the name attached to the unnamed restaurant at no. 48 in 1916 is that of another Berlemont, Alfred – a brother?) In an interview in Midweek in 1989, Gaston said that he was born ‘four months after his father had taken over from a German called Schmidt [sic]. “1914 was not a good time to be called Schmidt in England, and when my father, who had been working at a Soho restaurant, became the licensee, it changed from being known as the German’s to the French”.’ And ‘The French’ is has been ever since, despite being listed annually as the York Minster, and despite Victor’s change of fascia to ‘Maison Berlemont’ (destroyed by the 1940 doodlebug that decimated St Anne’s Church just opposite). Sandy Fawkes suggests that it was around this time, perhaps to cover the rebuilding, that ‘Victor sold the freehold to a brewery, and became a life tenant. The name was changed [back] to “The York Minster” ’ - but was still known informally as ‘The French’. (This soubriquet was further emphasised by the utilisation of the pub as an informal headquarters by the Free French during World War Two, among them De Gaulle.) It wasn’t until the late 1970s, long after Gaston had taken over his father’s mantle (in 1947), that the name changed yet again, to formally - and very belatedly - become ‘The French House’ (a rite of passage overseen by actor Tom Baker, Dr Who, then a frequent drinker at no.49). Victor opened the upstairs room at the pub as a restaurant, which operated until around the late 1960s. Soho was becoming known for its food by the 1920s, a reflection of the many nationalities the area embraced, and Victor was in good company. In Dean Street alone in 1920 there were a club, a hotel, seven cafés (mostly Italian), three restaurants, a mushroom dealer and a ham and beef business. The food at Maison Berlemont was basic French, as were the waiters. Some say the food was good, some just appreciated its proximity after over-indulgence at the bar downstairs. John Mortimer said the restaurant was ‘where two despotic waiters failed consistently to catch the eye of the starving diner’. One of those long-aproned waiters is remembered particularly for his shaking hand with thumb firmly in the soup, and the dewdrop at the end of his nose (he later won the pools and retired happily). Writing in the mid 1960s, Jeffrey Bernard and Frank Norman praised the earlier years of the restaurant: ‘…in those days it was quite difficult to spend two bob: for eighteen pence you could have Hors d’oeuvre, fillet of plaice, beef steak and a rum pancake. Today sitting at the same table you would be lucky if you got the same meal for less than fifty bob.’ (Today it would be even more difficult!) Gaston closed the restaurant down as too small and too oldfashioned, and The French reverted to serving food in the bar only, luscious baguettes and small Maison Bertaux quiches. It wasn’t until Gaston’s retirement on Bastille Day, 1989 – that extraordinary day when all of London, it seemed, came to pay respects, and Soho, uncharacteristically, ran dry of alcohol – that the French House Dining Room again functioned, under the new and sympathetic management of Lesley Lewis and Noel Botham. The restaurant has seen a variety of chefs in the fifteen happy years since then – most notably Margot Henderson – and has served food highly praised in food guides. The current chef is Andy Campbell, previously at the Café Royal Grill, and the restaurant, that small room that has seen so much history, is constantly full. And even Noel Botham himself has seen fit to don chef’s apron and toque – when he and souschef (now Andy) cook lunches, masquerading as the Rude Brothers, for the occasional meetings of the renowned SLAGS (Soho Ladies’ and Gentlewomen’s Society). SUSAN FLEMING International Wines and Spirits 74 Old Compton Street London W1D 4UW Telephone 020 7734 2053 020 7734 4215
Issue 117 Page 11 How How well well do do do you you know know Soho? Soho? Our competition is even easier this time... or is it? All of these shots were taken in Soho, but there's an odd one out - can you identify these buildings, and then tell us which is the odd one out? Photos & quiz by Kell Gatherer O P E N I N G H O U R S Monday to Friday 12 noon to 3pm Monday to Saturday 6pm to 11.30pm 161 Wardour Street, London W1F 8WJ Tel: 020 7734 3324 www.stmoritz-restaurant.co.uk Win Win a a bottle bottle of of Champagne! Champagne! Win a bottle of Champagne! The Vintage House, of 42 Old Compton Street, has generously donated a bottle of Champagne as the prize for this competition. Tell us which image is the odd one out, and why, and the first correct entry pulled from a hat on 31 August 2004 will win the prize. Answers on a postcard (or the back of an envelope) with your name and address to: Soho Competition, The Soho Society, St Anne's Tower, 55 Dean Street, London W1D 6AF Entries must be received by 25 August 2004. Answers and details of winner next issue. In the event of no fully correct answers, the "most correct" will win! Editor's decision is final. The winner of the last competition* was David St Vincent, of Old Compton Street. The Vintage House, Algerian Coffee Store, Pollo Bar Restaurant, Patisserie Valerie, and Camisa & Son were all in Old Compton Street. The odd one out was Nino's Salon, in Frith Street. * If you missed it, see www.thesohosociety.org.uk/clarion/quiz/ Advertise in the Clarion Clarion Reasonable rates 020 7439 4303
Page 1 and 2: Issue 117 Page Issue 117 SOHO CLARI
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Page 5 and 6: Issue 117 Page 5 Obituary: Obituary
Page 7 and 8: Issue 117 Page 7 A Christian fellow
Page 9: Issue 117 Page 9 Wild Wild Soho Soh

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