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Sport in Eastern Persia

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Black Partridges 3<br />

of the delta, and bus<strong>in</strong>ess call<strong>in</strong>g me there, we<br />

left the Consulate on a bright w<strong>in</strong>ter's morn<strong>in</strong>g<br />

and headed away north-east. The party consisted<br />

of three English gentlemen, an English lady (my<br />

wife), an escort of Indian cavalry sowars and some<br />

mounted Seistani levies such as would be called<br />

"catch-em-alive-o's" on India's North-West frontier.<br />

The track is over hard-baked mud, with occasional<br />

areas of tillage. Villages, with willow-trees look-<br />

<strong>in</strong>g dark <strong>in</strong> the distance, rise up one by one on the<br />

straight horizon, and as we draw closer, are seen<br />

to be clusters of low mud domes. Through the<br />

narrow evil-smell<strong>in</strong>g alleys we pull up to a walk to<br />

avoid rid<strong>in</strong>g over swarms of naked children. They<br />

are all surpris<strong>in</strong>gly alike, these Seistani hamlets ;<br />

the same groups of men sitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> front of the<br />

local mosque ; the same scowl<strong>in</strong>g, green-turbaned<br />

Syeds ; the women veiled <strong>in</strong> hideous black ; the<br />

weavers sitt<strong>in</strong>g at their looms under sheltered<br />

walls ; the pond of awful look<strong>in</strong>g water with<br />

its float<strong>in</strong>g corpse of dog or goat. Through<br />

packs of savage pariahs, retriever Don walks<br />

with apparent unconcern as a good dog should,<br />

bestow<strong>in</strong>g a glance neither to right nor left. We<br />

of his tail what<br />

only know by the extra stiffen<strong>in</strong>g<br />

it costs him. For without our threaten<strong>in</strong>g whips<br />

and the sowars' lances, the howl<strong>in</strong>g village curs<br />

would soon make an end of him. Outside the

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