North-east Victoria April 08 - Taste

the guide.
north-east
victoria
Matt Preston roams through Victoria’s Alpine Valleys, a picturesque region
of historic towns and mountain vistas, with plenty to offer food-lovers.
WORDS Matt Preston PHOTOGRAPHY MarK roPer
Could this be Australia’s best food region?
The locals shyly tell you it isn’t, but they’d
be hard-pressed to name an area with as
many fine producers, great wines and
notable restaurants. Drive from historic
Beechworth, past Myrtleford and Bright to
scenic Mount Beauty and visit them all, as
you wind up the valleys into this hidden
corner of Victoria that bumps between the
ski fields and the mighty Murray River.
54 delicious.
beechworth
where to eat
Wardens Food & Wine
Chef Douglas Elder, who built a reputation
at Villa Gusto in Buckland, has joined Rocco
and Lisa Esposito at Wardens. Rocco
provides assured professionalism on the
floor, while Douglas delivers dishes such as
chargilled quail with fennel sausage and
marsala sauce, or Port Lincoln jewfish with
peperonata. You’ll also find interesting
local and international wines in their store.
32 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 1377.
GiGi’s oF BeechWorth
Aspirations are high since owner Alan
Parker arrived at this Beechworth stalwart
last year. After working at some of Noosa’s
best places, he’s put a funky polish on

View from Myrtleford’s award-winning range
restaurant. clockwise from left: smoked trout
with horseradish creme fraiche on grilled
piadina at Gigi’s of beechworth; the region’s
rolling hills; peaceful bouchon at botanicals
in beechworth; banquette dining at Gigi’s;
rocco esposito of beechworth’s wardens Food
& wine; pumpkin, feta and thyme tortellini at
waddington’s of Kergunyah, and its gardens;
strawberry friands at wardens.
Gigi’s Italian dining room. Chef Megan
Chalmers pays similar attention to dishes
such as spiced pigeon, rocket, truffle and
pear salad; or Angus sirloin with salsa
verde butter and duck fat-roasted kipflers.
69 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2575.
Bouchon at Botanicals
The secluded garden tables and book-lined
rooms feel a million miles from the seething
throng of Beechworth’s Goldfields-era
main drag. Try a croque monsieur, French
tart, or anything with co-owner Barbara
Sibley’s rhubarb chutney. 38 Ford St,
Beechworth, (03) 5728 2455.
the ox and hounds
Cow Hill winery’s Katherine Sullivan and
Andrew Doyle opened this simple bistro
with French leanings late last year. Start the
weekend with croissants, come for lunch
and enjoy oysters shucked to order, or opt
for dinner with a bottle of their 2002 pinot,
the duck liver parfait and a tarte tatin made
with apples from neighbouring Stanley.
52 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2123.
BridGe road BreWers
For something a little earthier, try Maria
Frischmann’s pretzels at this craft brewery.
Sit outside, or in the old coach house with
Ben Kraus’ brewing equipment. For
something heftier, try an ale-spiked pie, all
washed down with Ben’s pale ale or a
longneck of his French-style country brew.
Tanswells Old Coach House, 50 Ford St,
Beechworth, (03) 5728 2703.
the Green shed Bistro
James Loveridge and Therese Shanley’s
casual restaurant is popular for its
no-nonsense manner, open fires and
unpretentious food such as braised lamb
with polenta, or roast pork belly with a
carrot, coriander and almond salad.
37 Camp St Beechworth, (03) 5728 2360.

the guide.
where to drink
At family-run Smith’s Vineyard (27 Croom
Ln, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2364), Sarah
Smith and Will Flamsteed run a chic little
cellar door where you’ll find a notable
chardy – the 2006 vintage is a cracker – and
an elegant shiraz worth laying down.
Pennyweight is a slightly ramshackle
old winery and cellar door with organic
certification (Pennyweight Ln, Beechworth,
(03) 5728 1747). Here the Morris family has
created one of the region’s more notable
pinot noirs, an excellent sherry and some
very interesting fortifieds.
Tanswell’s Commercial Hotel (50 Ford
St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 1480) used to be
Ned Kelly’s drinking hole, but it has a new
lease of life with Elizabeth Kraus in charge,
while the wisteria-shrouded Stanley Pub
(1 Wallace St, Stanley, (03) 5728 6502) is also
worth the drive for its bar and beer garden.
where to shop
For local vegetables, fruit, nuts and saffron,
see Pete at Goldfields Green Grocer (61
Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2303). Or try
The Beechworth Provender (18 Camp St,
(03) 5728 2650), which has oils, jams, sauces
and a selection of wines from vineyards
without their own cellar doors, including
Castagna, Giaconda, Savaterre and Battely.
Visit the Beechworth Pantry (77 Ford St,
Beechworth, (03) 5728 2456) for deli goods
and slices of hazelnut meringue dacquoise
with raspberries or plums.
Keep an eye out for seasonal farm gate
sales and roadside stalls, too. Head to
Snowline Fruits (507 Stanley-Myrtleford
Rd, Stanley, (03) 5728 6584) for apples, nuts,
apricots and berries, or High Grove
Orchards (Mt Stanley Rd, Stanley, (03) 5728
6526) for berries and chestnuts.
where to stay
1860 luxury accoMModation
This log cabin was once a cattleman’s hut
until it was shipped to this quiet location.
It‘s simple, elegant and comfortable with
an open fire, double bath, king bed, kitchen
and verandah. From $245 per night (twonight
minimum), including a breakfast
hamper. 4 Surrey Ln, Beechworth, 0408
273 783, 1860luxuryaccommodation.com.
56 delicious.
Other options include The Stone Cottage
(6 Tanswell St, Beechworth, 0411 324 797),
a cute one bed cottage set in a pretty garden,
priced from $160 per double. Or just out of
Beechworth, try Black Springs Bakery (464
Wangaratta Rd, Beechworth, (03) 5728
2565, blackspringsbakery.com), a converted
stone barn in Provence-style gardens that
oozes country charm. It’s priced from $220
per double, including breakfast provisions.
MYrtLeForD, brIGht
AND SUrroUNDS
where to eat
ranGe
Awarded two hats and Country Restaurant
of the Year by The Age Good Food Guide 2008,
the minimalist glass dining room at Range
belies the excitement of the food exiting
Michael Ryan’s kitchen. Local produce,
such as saltbush lamb, Murray Grey beef or
Roberts Creek duck, shines. Co-owner
Michael makes simple dishes sing, whether
it’s his cleverly revised vitello tonnato with
air-dried tuna; or wild rabbit with peas and
toasted orzo. 258 Great Alpine Rd,
Myrtleford, (03) 5752 2885.
siMone’s oF BriGht
Patrizia and George Simone’s warren of
dining rooms is another two-hat favourite
for George’s carefully chosen wine list, and
the wonderful way Patrizia and son
Anthony marry her Umbrian heritage with
local game, wild greens, mushrooms and
nuts. Patrizia has an unrivalled nose for
produce so the antipasto is a must. Also try
a pasta, then something earthy and
autumnal – the signature braised goat
perhaps – but leave space for tiramisu.
98 Gavan St, Bright, (03) 5755 2266.
Boynton’s FeathertoP Winery
The arrival of Shaun McDougall from
Range signals that Janelle and Kel Boynton
are serious about food at this modern cellar
door, surrounded by terraced lawns. Try
global mezze – pancetta-wrapped Milawa
chicken breast, coconut-crumbed prawns
or rare beef salad – with a Boynton’s pinot
gris, shiraz or pilsener. 6619 Great Alpine
Rd, Porepunkah, (03) 5756 2356.
PluMP harvest Produce
This large, sleek cafe and sourdough bakery
has well-made Illy coffee and sandwiches
for the steady stream of cyclists, but it’s
Danielle Brooke’s pastry that really puts it
on a pedestal. Go for elevenses, and then
back for tea to indulge icannoli or a
chocolate and hazelnut tart. Her raspberry
tart – sharp with fruit and rich from almond
paste – may be the best in the state. Great
Alpine Rd, Myrtleford, (03) 5752 2257.
the Butter Factory
Slow-foodie Naomi Ingleton and her mum,
Bronwyn, have turned this former butter
factory into a great cafe with a dedication
to local produce. Naomi brings in whole
animals to break down, so pigs from
Wooragee may make pork and pistachio
terrine, while Nug Nug kid is used in a
tagine. At breakfast, try Black Range trout
with poached eggs, or baked eggs with
chorizo, tomato and olives. They do dinner
Thursday to Saturday, and yes, they churn
their own butter. 15 Myrtle St (Great
Alpine Rd), Myrtleford, (03) 5752 2300.
For simple French bistro fare, Poplar’s
Restaurant (Shop 8, Star Rd, Bright, (03)
5755 1655) does the classics admirably well,
from a deeply flavoured French onion soup
to impeccably light soufflés. For casual fish
and chips, eat in or take away at Roksalt
(Shop 4, Camp St, Bright, (03) 5755 1515) –
it may be far from the coast, but it’s good.
Food, Wine, Friends
Teghan Ellis’ cafe is about the best place for
breakfast in Bright. While it’s hard to go
past raisin toast from Milawa’s artisan
bakery, you’ll also find the usual array of
eggs – perhaps paired with Jim Jam Haz
Beans made in Stanley by tree-changing
graphic designer, Steven Vandenbergh.
6 Ireland St, Bright, (03) 5750 1312.
Morrie’s ice creaMery
It may seem excessive to have ice cream for
breakfast, even if Morrie’s does do flavours
like lemongrass and ginger, or wild river
plum made from freshly collected fruit.
Instead, opt for a bacon and egg baguette,
or waffles – with ice cream. 195 Great
Alpine Rd, Harrietville, (03) 5759 2612.

A selection of ceccanti Kiewa Valley wines.
clockwise from below: pick your flavour
at Morrie’s Ice creamery; sit by the fire
at 1860 Luxury Accommodation; baked
eggs with chorizo, tomato and olives
at the butter Factory; organic winery
Pennyweight; Pennyweight’s Frederick
and emily Morris.
delicious. 57

the guide.
where to drink
Gapsted Wines (Great Alpine Rd, Gapsted,
(03) 5751 1383) is known for its cabernet
sauvignon, durif, tempranillo and
experimental pressings such as saperavi, a
red made from Georgian grapes. On the
same stretch of road, decked out like a
Renaissance nobleman’s villa, Michelini
Wines (Great Alpine Rd, Myrtleford, (03)
5751 1990) houses Greg O’Keefe’s multitrophy-winning
brut, his easy-drinking
barbera and a complex, spicy sangiovese.
At Eaglerange Estate (228 Happy Valley
Rd, Ovens, (03) 5752 2518), shoot the breeze
with local salami legend Frank Ivone over
a taste of his merlot or cab sav. And to
celebrate the subtleties of merlot further,
visit Ringer Reef Winery (6835 Great
Alpine Rd, Porepunkah, (03) 5756 2808).
Known to many as the Ovens Hotel, the
Happy Valley Hotel in Ovens (4994 Great
Alpine Rd, Ovens, (03) 5751 1628) is a
pretty roadside pub with a vine-draped
verandah – perfect for a cleansing ale.
The edifice of trendy corrugated iron at
Bright Brewery (121 Great Alpine Rd,
Bright, (03) 5755 1301) is great for craft beer
and the little ones, as it overlooks Centenary
Park, the river and a playground.
where to shop
savoie Patisserie & salon du thÉ
Visit Savoie for classic patisserie like Paris
Brest (a ring of choux pastry with praline
cream), luscious millefeuille, and plump,
custard-filled, choux-pastry religieuses.
111 Gavan St, Bright, (03) 5750 1692.
58 delicious.
eco-friendly design at the buckland
Studio retreat. Left: Fresh trout at
harrietville. right: Scandinavian
style at Mount beauty’s
Svarmisk Apartments.
At Bright Berry Farm (Great Alpine Rd,
Eurobin, (03) 5756 2523), find fresh berries
in season, and Lorraine Leita’s berry cup
with ice cream and frozen fruit that makes
you feel guiltier than if you’d slept with
George Clooney… and just slept.
For a galaxy of apples, head to the pretty
village of Wandiligong and Nightingale
Brothers Alpine Apples (Morses Creek
Rd, (03) 5755 1318). For more local produce,
try Mountain Fresh Trout & Salmon Farm
(Stoney Creek Track, off Great Alpine Rd,
Harrietville, (03) 5759 2558), Mountain
View Chestnut Farm (233 Hughes Ln,
Eurobin, (03) 5756 2788) Weston’s Walnut
Farm (Great Alpine Rd, Eurobin, (03) 5756
2320) and Valley Nut Groves (180 Schlapps
Rd, Gapsted (03) 5752 1251). Pop into Red
Stag Deer & Emu Farm (324 Hughes Ln,
Eurobin, (03) 5756 2365) for venison and
frozen emu or ostrich meat.
where to stay
The four eco-friendly studios at The
Buckland Studio Retreat (McCormack’s
Ln, Buckland Valley, (03) 5756 2383,
thebuckland.com.au) are cleverly designed
for privacy. Stylish modern interiors
include huge double showers, kitchens
with modern appliances and a full audio
visual set up. From $275 per double,
including breakfast.
If you’re looking for somewhere plusher,
go up the valley and check into one of the
eight suites at Villa Gusto (630 Buckland
Valley Rd, Buckland, (03) 5756 2000,
villagusto.com.au) designed by the Park
Hyatt team. Run by Fleur Featherstone and
her partner, Neal Gregory, this property
boasts a cinema and restaurant with daily
changing degustation menus. From $245
per double per night, including breakfast.
With 17 contemporary rooms including
family suites for to five, Motel on Alpine
(258 Great Alpine Rd, Myrtleford, (03) 5752
1438, motelonalpine.com) is perfect for a
more modest budget. It’s also equipped
with a pool and outdoor barbecue area.
From $129 per double per night.
MoUNt beAUtY
AND SUrroUNDS
where to eat
roi’s restaurant
If chef Roi Rigoni was cooking in trendy
North Fitzroy, he’d be hailed as a star for
his epic dishes like roast duck with crabapples
and caramelised baby figs, or ballsy
porcini risotto. We just call him ‘the Prince
of Pork’ for his slow-cooked crispy pork
with Italian mustard fruits, or signature
pork chop that’s superbly tender from
being brined in pineapple juice. 177 Kiewa
Valley Hwy, Tawonga, (03) 5754 4495.
recline restaurant
With its modern interior and urban bar
vibe, Recline offers the perfect contrast to
the quirky decor at Roi’s. There’s a menu
to match, skipping from peppered kangaroo
with chestnut and pancetta pansoti (filled
pasta) to sweet cinnamon-dusted churros.
36 Hollands St, Mt Beauty, (03) 5754 1878.

1.
2.
4.
5.
6.
3.
WaddinGton’s at KerGunyah
Here’s a great place to linger on Sunday.
Jan Waddington has resumed kitchen
duties at this airy restaurant in the middle
of her nursery, which specialises in droughtresistant
plants. The result is a beautifully
restrained menu featuring pork, apple and
walnut terrine with housemade peach
chutney; and pumpkin, feta and thyme
tortellini. RMB 1059 Kiewa Valley Hwy,
Kergunyah, (02) 6027 5393.
ceccanti KieWa valley Wines
It’s only a humble shed, but the welcome
from Angelo and Moya Ceccanti and their
son Danny couldn’t be warmer. Sample
their well-priced merlot or the fine Nonno
Reserve, then try Moya’s wonderfully
robust Lucchese bean stew or light Sicilian
cheesecake. 285 Bay Creek Ln, Mongan’s
Bridge, (03) 5754 5236.
At Treats Cafe (Bogong Ski Centre,
Tawonga South, (03) 5754 1515), come for
Moroccan lamb pasties, or cauliflower, leek
and parmesan soup, then leave with a takehome
meal of lamb rogan josh or Thai
60 delicious.
9.
7.
8.
10.
11.
13.
12.
14.
15.
16.
map key
1860 Luxury Accommodation .2
Annapurna estate & café ..... 15
beechworth Pantry ................2
black Springs bakery .............1
bogong estate ..................... 15
bouchon at botanicals ............2
boynton’s Feathertop winery .8
bridge road brewers .............2
bright berry Farm ..................7
bright brewery ..................... 10
ceccanti Kiewa Valley wines 14
eaglerange estate ..................6
Food, wine, Friends .............. 10
Gapsted wines ........................4
Gigi’s of beechworth ..............2
Goldfields Green Grocer .........2
the Green Shed Grocer ..........2
high country Smokehouse ... 16
high Grove orchards ..............3
Michelini wines ......................5
Motel on Alpine ......................5
Morrie’s Ice creamery .......... 12
Mountain Fresh trout
& Salmon Farm ............... 12
Mountain View
chestnut Farm ...................7
Mt beauty bakery ................. 16
Nightingale brothers ........... 11
ovens hotel ............................6
Pennyweight ...........................1
green curry. Also in the vicinity is Sarah
Miller’s Ski Plus Cafe (Kiewa Valley Hwy,
Tawonga South, (03) 5754 4472), where
snowboarders are sure to be satisfied.
where to drink
At Annapurna Estate & Cafe (Simmonds
Creek Rd, Tawonga South, (03) 5754 1356),
winemaker and ex-body builder Ezio
Minutello has crafted a classy sparkling,
which works a treat with a robust plate of
Calabrese sausage and grilled radicchio
and baby fennel at their cafe.
Call to see if John “Grizzly” Adams is
in at Tawonga Vineyard (Drummond St,
Tawonga, (03) 5754 4945), as he often
consults on vintages overseas. His viognier
and shiraz viognier are well-priced and
loaded with cool-climate character.
Or check out Bogong Estate (cnr Damms
Rd and Mountain Creek Rd, Tawonga, (03)
5754 4347), where winemaker Bill Tynan
specialises in pinot noir. Drop in at Zak’s
Wine Bar (Allamar Motor Inn, 14 Ranch
Rd, Tawonga South, (03) 5754 4365) for a
game of pool and the boutique beers.
Plump harvest Produce ...........5
Poplar’s restaurant ............. 10
range .....................................5
recline ................................. 16
red Stag Deer & emu Farm ...7
ringer reef winery ................8
roksalt ................................. 10
roi’s Italian Diner ................. 15
Savoie Patisserie
and Salon du thé .............. 10
Simone’s of bright ................ 10
Ski Plus café ........................ 15
Smith’s Vineyard .....................1
Snowline Fruits .....................3
Stanley Pub ............................3
Svarmisk Apartments .......... 16
tanswell’s hotel ....................2
tawonga Vineyard ................. 15
the buckland Studio retreat .9
the butter Factory .................5
the beechworth Provender ...2
the Stone cottage ..................2
the ox and hounds .................2
treats cafe ........................... 15
Valley Nut Groves ..................4
Villa Gusto ..............................9
waddington’s at Kergunyah .. 13
wardens Food & wine ............2
weston’s walnut Farm ...........8
Zak’s wine bar ..................... 15
where to shop
Mt Beauty Bakery (cnr Kiewa and Holland
sts, Mount Beauty, (03) 5754 4870) is great
for coffee, pies and sausage rolls.
Nearby, butcher Gerry Frawley of High
Country Smokehouse (22 Holland St,
Mount Beauty, (03) 5754 4026), has become
a bit of a star with his reputation for
smoking almost anything. The smoked
scallops and excellent ham are musts.
where to stay
svarMisK aPartMents
Local wags have nicknamed these six
stylish vertical units “Ikea House”, given
their colourful Euro design and sleek
Scandinavian interiors. We like this
minimalist, organic design that doesn’t
scrimp on mod-cons. Owners Lena and
Andy Mero have big plans for a day spa
and bar, and their produce shop is to open
in June. From $285 a night. 84 Bogong High
Plains Rd, Mt Beauty, (03) 5754 4544. d.
Thanks to Tourism Victoria for assistance with
this story. For more information on North-East
Victoria, tel: 132 842 or visit: visitvictoria.com.
ILLUStrAtIoN: PRiScillA nielSen