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Glass Bridges: Cross-Cultural Exchange between Florence and the ...

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while travelling, as well as Bonsignore’s memoirs written years afterwards at <strong>the</strong><br />

request of a friend, all still preserved in <strong>the</strong> Biblioteca Nazaionale of <strong>Florence</strong>, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is a wealth of information on <strong>the</strong> Florentines living in Adrianople, Constantinople <strong>and</strong><br />

Bursa.<br />

Adrianople was one of <strong>the</strong>ir stops during <strong>the</strong> l<strong>and</strong> journey. Until 1458, this city<br />

used to be <strong>the</strong> capital of <strong>the</strong> Ottoman Turks. It was considered an important trading<br />

centre for cloth <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>re were several Florentine agents present in this city to<br />

extend hospitality to Michelozzi <strong>and</strong> his companions. 40 An aspect of <strong>the</strong> city that<br />

caught his attention was <strong>the</strong> sultan’s garden where <strong>the</strong> Florentines were allowed to<br />

indulge in <strong>the</strong> Italian ‘sport’ of bird catching. Bonsignore mentioned Fra Biagio, an<br />

active Franciscan missionary who was chaplain to <strong>the</strong> Florentine colony in<br />

Adrianople. 41 This exemplifies <strong>the</strong> issue of freedom of worship, which was at <strong>the</strong> core<br />

of extraterritoriality in <strong>the</strong> Ottoman Empire. Each legate had a church or a chapel<br />

where he <strong>and</strong> his staff could worship freely <strong>and</strong> each ambassador <strong>and</strong> consul had<br />

legal jurisdiction over his ‘nation’. No o<strong>the</strong>r state employed such a sweeping<br />

extraterritoriality until well after <strong>the</strong> religious wars of <strong>the</strong> sixteenth century, which<br />

aided in quelling <strong>the</strong> notion of universal law. This idea became an axiom of<br />

diplomacy in Western Europe <strong>the</strong>reafter. 42<br />

More importantly, <strong>the</strong> presence of such facilities indicate that Florentines<br />

were very much able to create a home away from home in a space that had been<br />

perceived as hostile to <strong>the</strong>ir own cultural <strong>and</strong> religious practices but obviously was<br />

not. Bonsignore also gave an account of a conversation with a Turk concerning<br />

‘Turkish law <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> relative merits of Christianity <strong>and</strong> Mohammedanism’ 43 .<br />

Presumably ‘Modammedanism’ refers to Islam. Bernardo, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r h<strong>and</strong>, was<br />

engaged in a hunt for books <strong>and</strong> texts, specifically those owned by <strong>the</strong> Greek colony.<br />

This was a major preoccupation of travelers to <strong>the</strong> Ottoman Empire. Bernardo details<br />

his attempts, both frustrating <strong>and</strong> successful, in procuring Greek texts of good quality<br />

at reasonable prices. Given <strong>the</strong> fascination with classical history among humanists in<br />

<strong>Florence</strong>, this was underst<strong>and</strong>able.<br />

From Adrianople, <strong>the</strong>y travelled onto Constantinople. Their first month in<br />

Constantinople involved a sightseeing agenda presumably typical of a traveler to <strong>the</strong><br />

city. Bernardo visited <strong>the</strong> Hippodrome, <strong>the</strong>n used by <strong>the</strong> Turks as an exercise yard<br />

for <strong>the</strong>ir horses <strong>and</strong> copied <strong>the</strong> Greek inscriptions <strong>and</strong> made Latin translations of<br />

40 Borsook 1973, p. 157.<br />

41 Ibid, p. 158.<br />

42 Goffman 2002, p. 187.<br />

43 Ibid.<br />

14

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